In my layout..i do straight cuts on the wall opposite the door and cope so the cope is always out of the sight line....if that makes sense....and cut both flat and upside down.....good video
I don’t get to do much trim work being a form setter/ framer. But when I do Spencer is my secret weapon. I do it exactly like he shows in his videos. I get lots of compliments from the older carpenters. They all have a barrel grip jig with a coping foot now. I get to show old dogs new tricks. Thanks Spencer.
These skills can still come in really handy as a concrete guy. Especially when you get into installing chamfer with compound angles and any architectural concrete
I've retired from doing production trim but when I was doing it, like Spencer, I measured and cut a whole floor at a time. However, I had an employee who was shooting the trim in as I was cutting. It's a great way to run baseboard.
This is awesome, I appreciate that this isn't targeted towards beginners, but people already in the trades looking to hone a specific skill further, the way a specialist would do it.
I've been a finish carpenter for over 30 years. I find that most people have zero idea of how much brain power it takes to do this job, and more importantly do it well. 👍
Nice reply. I’m a retired project manager from the aerospace engine industry. I had a interesting career and did my job well but always felt since my teens that being a carpenter was to be my calling. Specifically a trim carpenter. I’ve always done my own home trim work. And your very right about the brain power aspect of that trade. Spencer for his age is an amazing one man skilled trades man. I envy you guys that do it for a living. Leaving your mark everyday and doing it well has got to be super rewarding.
People are mind-bogglingly out of touch. I recently went to repair a ton of base in a house where their dog had peed it into oblivion and about ten minutes after I arrived, while ripping the base out, the homeowner asked if I was done yet. I was hired to finish it through PAINTING.
Man, I’m just getting ready to do the base and case in my house and your videos are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to share your craft. It is so appreciated
I'm a carpenter of 40+ years and I was taught to Only wear pouches when doing Rough carpentry. When it came to finish work you don't want nail bags and hammers beating against door jambs and painted walls? If I Must have nails or tools at the ready I wear a nail apron which is in the front and have less chance of beating up my surroundings. You're obviously a successful carpenter and businessman so to each his own. Your videos are Very instructional to the point that even an apprentice can understand. Keep up the Great work.
Another great video. I wanted to comment half way through asking about your cut list. You have nailed this whole system and explain it so perfectly. Thanks.
Wow you THOROUGHLY sold me on this technique. I’m just a homeowner but I’ve trimmed out two of my homes now with material all flat to the saw top and I 100% see the benefits of this instead. Plus I JUST got my dream DWS779!
I made a whole house cut list just like yours when I was still trimming mostly new construction. I can’t get on my knees anymore. I always used a traditional hand coping saw. Still do however I cut the flats on the miter saw but I never thought to cut base upside down. On walls needing a scarf I don’t cope those pieces as well as pieces that make an outside corner. Another good tip for beginners is to cut all your long lengths first and using the drop for small pieces and don’t forget to number the back of every piece. I miss trimming houses but I really love being in the wood shop now.
Just another excellent, excellent video from you, really glad I found your channel - I've been a cabinetmaker over 30 years, but you've got lots to teach about running finish trim that building casework doesn't encompass. One thing, when using the chop saw to cut out the waste on your miter, you correctly lifted the blade out of the cut before releasing the trigger. This is something that becomes automatic once you've spoiled enough cuts when the blade brake cuts in and the saw head kicks down. Worth pointing out to folks who haven't used a chop saw much.
I am waiting for him to mention this as I watch the video. Very good point. I've learned that the hard way and I've seen many make that mistake as well.
Hey Spencer, I cut my baseboard on the flat. I don’t tighten the back knob and my saw drops freely to the left, down to 46° and back up to 0° when I need a straight cut. I make a 46° cut for the cope. Then I make a straight cut trough the cope the way you do it, hook up with my tape to that cut, and measure - say 100”. Then make that 100” cut and finish the cope with the jig saw. It’s another way to do it and doesn’t require a super good blade, because it pulls the material in with the teeth from the face or high quality wings like yours. Love your videos.
I've done it just like this in the past, leaving the bevel knob loose, only when doing 11" mdf that the HO wanted coped for some reason, it worked pretty well but I was nervous about the saw rotating while cutting
Been doing this a long time and never thought of this. Great tip. Just like cutting ceiling crown. I understand the clockwise method but when I do stain grade work I try to orient my copes to the room to take advantage of the blind joint. I've learned to help the confusion for beginners (and myself on bad brain days) on cutting ceiling crown upside down with two steps that would be the same for base with this upside down method. Identify which end is being cut and put it into the saw upside down. Swing the head in for an inside corner and out for an outside corner. Love your stuff. Great combination of top quality work and efficiency.
I'm a diy guy who found that this was a really good way to cut found that flat cutting didn't give the accurate cut all the time. But I'd get a head ache trying to cut whole level !!! Strictly one room at a time !!! Great info !!!!
Hi Spence, Once again, thank you for the time spent teaching and informing us of techniques and tricks you acquired over the years in the trade. My question is; do you pre-measure and cut baseboard runs that are longer than stock your available length? Runs that require scarf jointed middle boards or just two boards with a single scarf. It seems to me it would be difficult to determine that exact scarf position without installing a corner section, measuring the remaining run, the cutting, installing and if necessary repeating. Thanks for taking a moment and reviewing this question. I pray all is well with your wife's health and your golf game, Gerard
This has been incredibly helpful - thank you! My husband and I bought a fixer upper post empty nest, something we’ve always wanted to do because we thought it would be a “fun” challenge. Well, we got the challenge part right and no single task more than baseboards. We’ve always had a healthy respect for carpenters but oh my gosh it’s on a whole other level now. You have to be geometry wizards!
I'm in the field every day running trim. I like your videos you're an excellent Carpenter. But when streamlining baseboard cutting on the flat is the fastest way by far. You can watch your blade as it comes to the first profile perfectly to make your cope a quick shot. Adjusting your miter is definitely quicker than adjusting your bevel, but with the right trim saw it's a routine that one Masters quickly. Keep up the good work and thank you for all the awesome videos. 👌 keep them coming.
First video I have watched if yours. I like how you are concise and very informative. Very professional. Love the video. I’m an electrician and I wish I could present information the way you do. You’re a natural born teacher. Keep up the good work man.
If a right side cope is necessary, you can sit the board upside down still, but with the profile facing the fence (depending on the profile perhaps). Then set the depth stop for straight/straight back cuts down to the profile. Flip the depth stop on or off as required.
Just did baseboard for the first time and tried every way. Ended up on upside down and vertical too. When right side up and vertical I realized my base has a thinner profile at the top so if I cut on the line, it cut more off the bottom and my cut was too short. The bevel was too annoying to keep switching and you can't cut 45.5 deg bevels on my dewalt 779. Stops at 45. Great tips! Wish I'd watched this first
I fully agree cutting upside down is the most efficient way to cut base. Learned this by trial and error 20+ years ago when learning to cope miters for stain grade. All the flipping around when cutting flat seems to always results in an ah shit and some wasted material. But when cutting upside down, if the piece has a crown or dip the slight angle on the cut will be reversed when on the wall. Paint grade it don’t matter but stain grade it will require just a little extra work to close the gap. Keep up the good work and knowledge sharing. 👍👍
Spencer, your camera work and videos overall keep just getting better and better. Entering into another league of not only carpenters, but TH-camrs. Thank you for sharing this knowledge - I do plan to use it. Just became a Patron to support your work.
Thanks! I just saw your support email come through. I really appreciate the support and glad the videos are helping. Also thanks for the feedback. I have been working much harder on video quality and upping my videography game, so its good to hear that the viewers are noticing.
Great video! Pretty cool to see we have nearly the exact tool belt setup. But, I cut on the flat use a coping saw and put a 15degree backcut on the straight length cutting a single room at a time in a counter-clockwise pattern with the copes on the right side.
It's the most efficient way for me to cut base. It cuts out that awkward step of flipping the piece over and around, to make the straight cut on the cope. I typically cut my outside miters, with the back of the base facing me as well. That way I'm not leaning over the saw, trying to see my line. Cutting base upside down, is just one of the many tips I've picked up from Spencer. So many people dismiss new ways of doing things, simply because "This is how I've always done it". In my 42 years on this earth, I've figured out a thing or two, and one of those is, my way, may not always be the best way. Keep an open mind and be willing to try new things, you may be surprised at how well it works for ya.
Great advice sir! I’ve bin building houses for over 30 years and everyday I still wake up asking myself how can I improve on what I did yesterday. Your advice is very appreciated!
I do a lot of the things the same as you. A few I don't but after hearing the reasoning behind you do them that way I'll give it a try. Always looking to improve my methods. Thanks
"its very simple, everything is opposite" lol. Great video and excellent information. It's crazy how simply switching orientation of a board can increase productivity. I have been cutting base vertically and right side up but I will definitely be trying to get used to cutting this way. Thanks again!
I’ve been a finisher for 20 years, mostly high end remodels. There is almost no new construction where I am other than additions so I do mostly finish work on houses built before 1940. And there’s earthquakes. Can you guess where? I really wish my miter saw table and supports mimicked the floor I’m installing on. That said, if it was I’d be paid a lot less than I am. The scribing is pretty involved. And please don’t talk to me about 1/4 round… Anyway, great video with important information as usual. I approve.
Been a carpenter for a long time never had a problem with inside meters and outside meters. We cut baseboard in a normal cut without a slider chop saw. The only time we cut upside down is only a crown molding not baseboard. However, the cope for baseboard is cool.
We make our own cabinet basemolding out of 3/4 x 5 1/4 poplar or soft maple . Using our shop corded 12 Bosch slider or 10 cordless Makita, I have to cut on the flat. It is definitely more stress on the motor and blade ,but because they are 90° corners I don't need to cope. I find the Bosch to have very poor sight lines, it involves holding the guard up with your finger then sighting mark and blade. There are desk lights that can be modded for shadowlines,but my boss doesn't like modding tools. Very good videography,and as always the content is outstanding 👏.
never thought about putting the base upside down. i guess its the way you are tought by someone whe dont know eather .62 years old been doing trim for 37 yesrs and just learned somethin new. thats a lot easyer than turning the 12 foot board around to cut the flat off thx for the tip.
Haha I've done it,or seen it done every way possible,I tend do just pick whatever works best at the time depending on the trim size and honestly how much mud the drywallers used.I was taught to go around the room like you said,but over the years I have learned to put my cope on my short run when given a choice,it may be out of order sometimes but I'd rather put a cope on a 3 ft piece than a 16 footer especially if I can just put two straight cuts on the 16 footer.Youre a good teacher that's for sure and your methods are sound.
Thanks dude! I'll be doing that from now on. Save loads of time coping out. These power tools are great. When I started we were cutting 45° over the base of our trecils. Glad those days are gone.
Good information. I almost always cut vertically. I run a lot of 5-1/4 neckbase top side up because I’m lazy and don’t like moving the saw anymore than I must. I cope with a jig saw and for me it seems faster than repeating lining the cut up to just slide the piece to the end of the support and zip out the cope. As always, great video!
Of course I find this after I complete a job. Trying to fix a job that the base was moved down leaving unfinished drywall above the baseboard... I would have just gotten taller molding but you can't get any molding right now...
If you’re doing a remodel and need to scribe to the floor, working off the finished profile (cutting upside down) is a good way to keep you joint angles true.
I'm thankful for you pros explaining that this is not a beginner video. Maybe it's the lack of sleep last night, but I'm definitely in the beginner class, so I'm hoping more will sink in after watching this a dozen more times. Some of it makes some sense. Good explanation that moulding can be warped or cupped or twisted, so cutting vertically avoids dealing with that so much. But some of the terms left me confused. That's on me, not you.
I usually miter my joints, and they’re glueable. If I cope the joint, I follow the framing and it’s not always square. That becomes noticeable in many applications. And that goes for outside corners. Usually, I’ll make 90 degree (not always) joints. If it’s new construction paint grade, the drywall guy can fix with his joint compound, and the painter can caulk.
Spencer, have learned a lot and in all seriousness the most knowledgeable carpenter on TH-cam. Have made me money and saved me time. Could you possibly in the future do a video on special isolated circumstances such as really tight spaces for base next to a wall and casing, and maybe having too much trim on not enough space. That would be cool.
Nothing beats take some back wood out, makes it easier to cut the piece a bit long and snap the longer pieces of base into place. If a bit long it's more or less easier to (while snapping the piece in place) to slightly crush the fine leading edge left from backing cutting into the other piece of base that your butting up to... Wow.. Hope that makes sense, probably much easier to demonstrate than to explain (at least for me) lol
@@jasonh3188 yes obviously we're speaking about coping the base but I've seen ppl make a coping cut without removing enough back wood making it harder to ever so slightly crush the leading edge while snapping the piece into place. (bending)
These suggestions work great for production baseboard. No idea what you've said regarding longer frame of reference other than wood not being straight. That makes sense when it sits vertical and the base better represents the floor. Lost me after that. But that's a nice piece of machinery, though. That DWS780. Although I did read that severak of these models, including the DWS780, had a stop sale. The issue (a manufacturing defect with the rear guard breaking in a small number of saws) affects the DWS780 DWS779 and DHS790 and can occur when the blade throws a piece of wood on the guard.
Loved your last video that I saw taping miters. We did this twenty years ago on production trim on $3million homes in Los Altos, CA. Always wanted to pass this skill along. You have nailed it. Would love to talk to you. Have some other points. Well Done.
If u cut it on the flat with the back facing up and mark on the back you can go faster because the next cut is made because it's a clean cut because the mark is not on the edge. Also if the board has the same cut you just flip it so it's face up and then face down or vice a versa depending on what your last cut was on the piece . Just make sure the teeth of the saw runs the right way through the face using a slider. This also allows you to use a smaller saw blade and get a better cut with no blade wobble.
Love your content keep it coming. Very well organized very well. Set up. I like it. Those outfit tables for your saw, would love to know how you made them. I’d like to see a video on that.
Cant cut vertical most of the time in the uk as the plaster finish kicks out at the bottom so you have to cut out of square which would be a pain in the vertical position
I understand a little...great video..question..if the wall is longer than the length of baseboard, what degree cuts do u make for joining the baseboard in the middle..thanks....Im not exactly sure what u r explaining, i start counter clockwise, install my first piece, then I cut my joining piece on a 45 degree to the left and cut that out with a coping saw...every piece i cut standing upright..very much a newbie here..
vertical cuts only work with millwork small enough for the saws cutting capacity. learn both techniques and you will be able to be efficient. I'm not a production contractor though, mainly custom.
I would like to see an in depth demo on how to measure wall then how to measure that onto the base board, how to cut on Or next to line , and whether to measure your length to back side of mitre cut? My piece always “ shrinks “ after i cut the measurement!
of instead of wasting cash buying Auxiliary Fences attach a piece of 1x6 to the stock fence with double stick tape or drill a couple of holes in the fence and use some screws to attach the 1x6
I'm a trim carpenter/ cabinet maker of 33years, I cut my base and crown on the flat with my Bosch Axial glide saw, and it comes out perfect, and I'm not limited to height of base or crown moulding, so I submit my method is better, BUT, you must have a slide, or glide saw with detents at 31, and 33 degree's, which most tradesmen do have.
Thanks for the good info. I run the far walls and longest walls first with square cuts. This makes efficient use of material, avoids having to cope long pieces, and fewer pieces have copes. I got a chuckle from the idea of the flat reference thing, since that FJ material is likely to be straighter than the subfloors are flat. A couple of other details are relieving the back of the base in the corners, and for base on a finish floor, I often put a tiny chamfer on the bottom edge, to give a clean line & make the painter's life easier.
Lots of good arguments and some weak ones but I'm still going to cut base flat, face down with the top facing me. I take my measurements from the walls at approximately the top of where the base will be. The backside of the base is the wall and the mark is easier to see and cut if it's on the back. Self returns are also for me easier to do on the flat.
In Sweden we often use pre painted baseboards.. so I , depending on angel of course, always have the painted 2sides towards my eyes.. the backside doesn’t get as good crisp cut as the 2 sides towards you. Make sense?
Yep. With pre finished trim, you can (and will) have some tearout on the top edge. I did alot of pre finished oak trim, and cutting upside down is a certain way to ruin pieces.
Great video. I like to keep a rat tail file and a 4 way file nearby to clean up the cope if needed. I always back cut it 5 degrees... gonna try just a straight cut on the next one... I'm 65 and still doing cabinet and trim work. Who sez you can't teach an ol' dog new tricks? ... ha.
What is your opinion of the Makita miter saw? You can adjust the bevel from a knob in the front of the saw rather than reaching around to the back of the saw.
Good video 👍🏼 I've always cut my baseboards vertically and then cope them with the table saw ( under 4') because it's easier faster & the blade back cuts the cope at the same time 🤷🏼♂️
What happened to that house that had brick on front and water was causing problems on inside. At the time you couldn’t find what was going on. I forget the episode but it was a while ago. You do great work and videos.
I've watched so many videos lately about baseboard install & almost every one has either the plain flat baseboard or ones like the one Spencer is using here. Around here most houses have the colonial-style baseboard that has a lot of profile design which is not as easy to deal with in my opinion
You briefly made reference to the Festool mitre saw. Have you made video of your preference? I'm a simple DIY home guy. I actually have both mitre saws, a long story. I Really don't need both but not sure which one to keep.
ive always cut vertically for outside corners your 45's come out perfect the blade doesnt flex but if im doing inside corners coping ill cut it with my coping saw
As always great video mate really enjoy your stuff I must admit got a bit confusing near the end but I can see where you’re coming from 🤪🤪 I tend to cut my skirting vertical anyway so next time ill cut it upside down and try it your way... I must admit it does look a lot easier👍👍👍👍
So what you're saying Spencer is cope to the left 90 to the right then when you're running around the room going towards the right the next piece will be cope to the left and again 90 to the right. So if we're cutting upside down the cope is always going to fit on the left side as we install the board is that correct
I just started following your channel, awesome work! I'll defiantly be checking out more videos! Separate question for you, how did you make your "Legs" / "Wings" chop saw that you use in this video? I have a similar stand and been trying to figure out way's to create a couple.
If the base that you are butting a coped end is not plumb, it is easy to do a bevel cut with the wood laying flat and adjust the miter left or right a couple degrees. Then, cope it.
Great video as always! I cut my base upside down and backwards. Was just about to ask about those fences when you started to explain where you got them. I will be getting me a set for taller base.
THANKS FOR SUPPORTING THIS CHANNEL BY PURCHASING THOUGH THESE AFFILIATE LINKS!!!
Collins Coping Foot - geni.us/yiknREx
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Dewalt DWS780 XPS - geni.us/gCB3f
FS Tool Miter Saw Blade - geni.us/kZAB
Tall Auxiliary Fences - www.customfabricatingsolutions.com/ez-speedy-zero-clearance.html#/
Your video editing is getting real good! That was a good video for explanation and footage.
In my layout..i do straight cuts on the wall opposite the door and cope so the cope is always out of the sight line....if that makes sense....and cut both flat and upside down.....good video
What is your coping blade?
I don’t get to do much trim work being a form setter/ framer. But when I do Spencer is my secret weapon. I do it exactly like he shows in his videos. I get lots of compliments from the older carpenters. They all have a barrel grip jig with a coping foot now. I get to show old dogs new tricks. Thanks Spencer.
These skills can still come in really handy as a concrete guy. Especially when you get into installing chamfer with compound angles and any architectural concrete
I've retired from doing production trim but when I was doing it, like Spencer, I measured and cut a whole floor at a time. However, I had an employee who was shooting the trim in as I was cutting. It's a great way to run baseboard.
This is awesome, I appreciate that this isn't targeted towards beginners, but people already in the trades looking to hone a specific skill further, the way a specialist would do it.
I've been a finish carpenter for over 30 years. I find that most people have zero idea of how much brain power it takes to do this job, and more importantly do it well. 👍
Nice reply. I’m a retired project manager from the aerospace engine industry. I had a interesting career and did my job well but always felt since my teens that being a carpenter was to be my calling. Specifically a trim carpenter. I’ve always done my own home trim work. And your very right about the brain power aspect of that trade. Spencer for his age is an amazing one man skilled trades man. I envy you guys that do it for a living. Leaving your mark everyday and doing it well has got to be super rewarding.
Nah, the concepts are simple enough...it's the "doing it well " that limits most people!
Math is your friend...
People are mind-bogglingly out of touch. I recently went to repair a ton of base in a house where their dog had peed it into oblivion and about ten minutes after I arrived, while ripping the base out, the homeowner asked if I was done yet. I was hired to finish it through PAINTING.
Do you run a sliding miter saw or fixed saw?
Man, I’m just getting ready to do the base and case in my house and your videos are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to share your craft. It is so appreciated
I'm a carpenter of 40+ years and I was taught to Only wear pouches when doing Rough carpentry. When it came to finish work you don't want nail bags and hammers beating against door jambs and painted walls? If I Must have nails or tools at the ready I wear a nail apron which is in the front and have less chance of beating up my surroundings. You're obviously a successful carpenter and businessman so to each his own. Your videos are Very instructional to the point that even an apprentice can understand. Keep up the Great work.
Another great video. I wanted to comment half way through asking about your cut list. You have nailed this whole system and explain it so perfectly. Thanks.
Wow you THOROUGHLY sold me on this technique. I’m just a homeowner but I’ve trimmed out two of my homes now with material all flat to the saw top and I 100% see the benefits of this instead. Plus I JUST got my dream DWS779!
I made a whole house cut list just like yours when I was still trimming mostly new construction. I can’t get on my knees anymore. I always used a traditional hand coping saw. Still do however I cut the flats on the miter saw but I never thought to cut base upside down. On walls needing a scarf I don’t cope those pieces as well as pieces that make an outside corner. Another good tip for beginners is to cut all your long lengths first and using the drop for small pieces and don’t forget to number the back of every piece. I miss trimming houses but I really love being in the wood shop now.
As a carpenter I look to improve my productivity and this is a great tip. You are a great teacher and very good at what you do.
Just another excellent, excellent video from you, really glad I found your channel - I've been a cabinetmaker over 30 years, but you've got lots to teach about running finish trim that building casework doesn't encompass. One thing, when using the chop saw to cut out the waste on your miter, you correctly lifted the blade out of the cut before releasing the trigger. This is something that becomes automatic once you've spoiled enough cuts when the blade brake cuts in and the saw head kicks down. Worth pointing out to folks who haven't used a chop saw much.
I am waiting for him to mention this as I watch the video. Very good point. I've learned that the hard way and I've seen many make that mistake as well.
Hey Spencer,
I cut my baseboard on the flat. I don’t tighten the back knob and my saw drops freely to the left, down to 46° and back up to 0° when I need a straight cut.
I make a 46° cut for the cope. Then I make a straight cut trough the cope the way you do it, hook up with my tape to that cut, and measure - say 100”. Then make that 100” cut and finish the cope with the jig saw. It’s another way to do it and doesn’t require a super good blade, because it pulls the material in with the teeth from the face or high quality wings like yours.
Love your videos.
I've done it just like this in the past, leaving the bevel knob loose, only when doing 11" mdf that the HO wanted coped for some reason, it worked pretty well but I was nervous about the saw rotating while cutting
Been doing this a long time and never thought of this. Great tip. Just like cutting ceiling crown. I understand the clockwise method but when I do stain grade work I try to orient my copes to the room to take advantage of the blind joint. I've learned to help the confusion for beginners (and myself on bad brain days) on cutting ceiling crown upside down with two steps that would be the same for base with this upside down method. Identify which end is being cut and put it into the saw upside down. Swing the head in for an inside corner and out for an outside corner. Love your stuff. Great combination of top quality work and efficiency.
I'm a diy guy who found that this was a really good way to cut found that flat cutting didn't give the accurate cut all the time. But I'd get a head ache trying to cut whole level !!! Strictly one room at a time !!! Great info !!!!
Hi Spence,
Once again, thank you for the time spent teaching and informing us of techniques and tricks you acquired over the years in the trade.
My question is; do you pre-measure and cut baseboard runs that are longer than stock your available length? Runs that require scarf jointed middle boards or just two boards with a single scarf. It seems to me it would be difficult to determine that exact scarf position without installing a corner section, measuring the remaining run, the cutting, installing and if necessary repeating.
Thanks for taking a moment and reviewing this question. I pray all is well with your wife's health and your golf game,
Gerard
This has been incredibly helpful - thank you! My husband and I bought a fixer upper post empty nest, something we’ve always wanted to do because we thought it would be a “fun” challenge. Well, we got the challenge part right and no single task more than baseboards. We’ve always had a healthy respect for carpenters but oh my gosh it’s on a whole other level now. You have to be geometry wizards!
I'm in the field every day running trim. I like your videos you're an excellent Carpenter. But when streamlining baseboard cutting on the flat is the fastest way by far. You can watch your blade as it comes to the first profile perfectly to make your cope a quick shot. Adjusting your miter is definitely quicker than adjusting your bevel, but with the right trim saw it's a routine that one Masters quickly. Keep up the good work and thank you for all the awesome videos. 👌 keep them coming.
I always mark to the short point on the miter as it is most accurate,add a degree or 2 to make sure the face of the trim fits flush and tight
I’ve always cut laying flat as well. I’ve tried cutting base standing but my feet can’t take a whole day of that.
@@IndianaJBird 🤣🤣🤣
First video I have watched if yours. I like how you are concise and very informative. Very professional. Love the video. I’m an electrician and I wish I could present information the way you do. You’re a natural born teacher. Keep up the good work man.
If a right side cope is necessary, you can sit the board upside down still, but with the profile facing the fence (depending on the profile perhaps). Then set the depth stop for straight/straight back cuts down to the profile. Flip the depth stop on or off as required.
Just did baseboard for the first time and tried every way. Ended up on upside down and vertical too. When right side up and vertical I realized my base has a thinner profile at the top so if I cut on the line, it cut more off the bottom and my cut was too short. The bevel was too annoying to keep switching and you can't cut 45.5 deg bevels on my dewalt 779. Stops at 45. Great tips! Wish I'd watched this first
I fully agree cutting upside down is the most efficient way to cut base. Learned this by trial and error 20+ years ago when learning to cope miters for stain grade. All the flipping around when cutting flat seems to always results in an ah shit and some wasted material. But when cutting upside down, if the piece has a crown or dip the slight angle on the cut will be reversed when on the wall. Paint grade it don’t matter but stain grade it will require just a little extra work to close the gap. Keep up the good work and knowledge sharing. 👍👍
Spencer, your camera work and videos overall keep just getting better and better. Entering into another league of not only carpenters, but TH-camrs. Thank you for sharing this knowledge - I do plan to use it. Just became a Patron to support your work.
Enjoy your upcoming vacation!
Thanks! I just saw your support email come through. I really appreciate the support and glad the videos are helping.
Also thanks for the feedback. I have been working much harder on video quality and upping my videography game, so its good to hear that the viewers are noticing.
Great video! Pretty cool to see we have nearly the exact tool belt setup. But, I cut on the flat use a coping saw and put a 15degree backcut on the straight length cutting a single room at a time in a counter-clockwise pattern with the copes on the right side.
It's the most efficient way for me to cut base. It cuts out that awkward step of flipping the piece over and around, to make the straight cut on the cope. I typically cut my outside miters, with the back of the base facing me as well. That way I'm not leaning over the saw, trying to see my line. Cutting base upside down, is just one of the many tips I've picked up from Spencer. So many people dismiss new ways of doing things, simply because "This is how I've always done it". In my 42 years on this earth, I've figured out a thing or two, and one of those is, my way, may not always be the best way. Keep an open mind and be willing to try new things, you may be surprised at how well it works for ya.
Well said,right there with ya 👊🏻
Absolutely... Spencer is very generous with his content and opened up different ways of approaching the job..
Great advice sir! I’ve bin building houses for over 30 years and everyday I still wake up asking myself how can I improve on what I did yesterday. Your advice is very appreciated!
I would imagine it didn't take all 42 years to figure that out. :)
@@josephdestaubin7426 maybe just 41 1/2. 😉
I do a lot of the things the same as you. A few I don't but after hearing the reasoning behind you do them that way I'll give it a try. Always looking to improve my methods. Thanks
You really are the best in TH-cam
"its very simple, everything is opposite" lol. Great video and excellent information. It's crazy how simply switching orientation of a board can increase productivity. I have been cutting base vertically and right side up but I will definitely be trying to get used to cutting this way. Thanks again!
I’ve been a finisher for 20 years, mostly high end remodels. There is almost no new construction where I am other than additions so I do mostly finish work on houses built before 1940. And there’s earthquakes. Can you guess where? I really wish my miter saw table and supports mimicked the floor I’m installing on. That said, if it was I’d be paid a lot less than I am. The scribing is pretty involved. And please don’t talk to me about 1/4 round…
Anyway, great video with important information as usual. I approve.
Your instruction makes my work much more efficient. Thanks!
Redoing all the trim and paint. Been learning and practicing all day.. thanks for the help!
Been a carpenter for a long time never had a problem with inside meters and outside meters. We cut baseboard in a normal cut without a slider chop saw. The only time we cut upside down is only a crown molding not baseboard.
However, the cope for baseboard is cool.
We make our own cabinet basemolding out of 3/4 x 5 1/4 poplar or soft maple .
Using our shop corded 12 Bosch slider or 10 cordless Makita, I have to cut on the flat.
It is definitely more stress on the motor and blade ,but because they are 90° corners I don't need to cope.
I find the Bosch to have very poor sight lines, it involves holding the guard up with your finger then sighting mark and blade.
There are desk lights that can be modded for shadowlines,but my boss doesn't like modding tools.
Very good videography,and as always the content is outstanding 👏.
never thought about putting the base upside down. i guess its the way you are tought by someone whe dont know eather .62 years old been doing trim for 37 yesrs and just learned somethin new. thats a lot easyer than turning the 12 foot board around to cut the flat off thx for the tip.
Well no doubt if you’re cutting 12 or 16’ boards 😂
Haha I've done it,or seen it done every way possible,I tend do just pick whatever works best at the time depending on the trim size and honestly how much mud the drywallers used.I was taught to go around the room like you said,but over the years I have learned to put my cope on my short run when given a choice,it may be out of order sometimes but I'd rather put a cope on a 3 ft piece than a 16 footer especially if I can just put two straight cuts on the 16 footer.Youre a good teacher that's for sure and your methods are sound.
Thanks dude! I'll be doing that from now on. Save loads of time coping out. These power tools are great. When I started we were cutting 45° over the base of our trecils. Glad those days are gone.
Good information. I almost always cut vertically. I run a lot of 5-1/4 neckbase top side up because I’m lazy and don’t like moving the saw anymore than I must. I cope with a jig saw and for me it seems faster than repeating lining the cut up to just slide the piece to the end of the support and zip out the cope. As always, great video!
I think I got it. Upside down and backwards, just like crown moulding. Thanks Spencer!
Thats why i love my delta 12 double accordian miter. Super ez and fast changing bevel
Of course I find this after I complete a job. Trying to fix a job that the base was moved down leaving unfinished drywall above the baseboard... I would have just gotten taller molding but you can't get any molding right now...
Great tips. I usually get very little out of videos like this... but this and others of this channel are very good.
If you’re doing a remodel and need to scribe to the floor, working off the finished profile (cutting upside down) is a good way to keep you joint angles true.
Awesome tips as always Spencer thanks! just bought my extension fences and zero clearance inserts to my saw to PRO status :)
I'm thankful for you pros explaining that this is not a beginner video. Maybe it's the lack of sleep last night, but I'm definitely in the beginner class, so I'm hoping more will sink in after watching this a dozen more times. Some of it makes some sense. Good explanation that moulding can be warped or cupped or twisted, so cutting vertically avoids dealing with that so much. But some of the terms left me confused. That's on me, not you.
Great videos. Setting up my new saw and learning lots of great tips from your videos
Great idea. I use 2 saws, on a custom stand, in line, to reduce moving a saw mitre so much
Lolwut
Thank you for very good explanation. I’ve been struggle how to do this and after watching you do it was a very easy. Thank you again.
I usually miter my joints, and they’re glueable. If I cope the joint, I follow the framing and it’s not always square. That becomes noticeable in many applications. And that goes for outside corners. Usually, I’ll make 90 degree (not always) joints. If it’s new construction paint grade, the drywall guy can fix with his joint compound, and the painter can caulk.
Don't' nail the straight piece in the corner and let the coped piece hold it and you won't be at the mercy of an out of square corner or bad mud job.
Spencer, have learned a lot and in all seriousness the most knowledgeable carpenter on TH-cam. Have made me money and saved me time. Could you possibly in the future do a video on special isolated circumstances such as really tight spaces for base next to a wall and casing, and maybe having too much trim on not enough space. That would be cool.
I will definitely keep those ideas in mind. Glad the videos are helping!
Nothing beats take some back wood out, makes it easier to cut the piece a bit long and snap the longer pieces of base into place. If a bit long it's more or less easier to (while snapping the piece in place) to slightly crush the fine leading edge left from backing cutting into the other piece of base that your butting up to... Wow.. Hope that makes sense, probably much easier to demonstrate than to explain (at least for me) lol
It's like leveling a door
I call that friction fit
it's called coping cut :) done 😆 put I pick up what ur putting down lol
@@jasonh3188 yes obviously we're speaking about coping the base but I've seen ppl make a coping cut without removing enough back wood making it harder to ever so slightly crush the leading edge while snapping the piece into place. (bending)
OK you convinced me to try something new. I just ordered those fences. Thanks for the knowledge.
These suggestions work great for production baseboard. No idea what you've said regarding longer frame of reference other than wood not being straight. That makes sense when it sits vertical and the base better represents the floor. Lost me after that. But that's a nice piece of machinery, though. That DWS780. Although I did read that severak of these models, including the DWS780, had a stop sale. The issue (a manufacturing defect with the rear guard breaking in a small number of saws) affects the DWS780 DWS779 and DHS790 and can occur when the blade throws a piece of wood on the guard.
Loved your last video that I saw taping miters.
We did this twenty years ago on production trim on $3million homes in Los Altos, CA. Always wanted to pass this skill along. You have nailed it. Would love to talk to you. Have some other points. Well Done.
Like the extensions for the saw stand.
Top tier techniques and info. Thanks
This channel is very , very helpful . Thanks again
Awesome video! I learned a ton and I am definitely going to try these new techniques out on my next trim project!
If u cut it on the flat with the back facing up and mark on the back you can go faster because the next cut is made because it's a clean cut because the mark is not on the edge. Also if the board has the same cut you just flip it so it's face up and then face down or vice a versa depending on what your last cut was on the piece . Just make sure the teeth of the saw runs the right way through the face using a slider. This also allows you to use a smaller saw blade and get a better cut with no blade wobble.
Love your content keep it coming. Very well organized very well. Set up. I like it. Those outfit tables for your saw, would love to know how you made them. I’d like to see a video on that.
Cant cut vertical most of the time in the uk as the plaster finish kicks out at the bottom so you have to cut out of square which would be a pain in the vertical position
I understand a little...great video..question..if the wall is longer than the length of baseboard, what degree cuts do u make for joining the baseboard in the middle..thanks....Im not exactly sure what u r explaining, i start counter clockwise, install my first piece, then I cut my joining piece on a 45 degree to the left and cut that out with a coping saw...every piece i cut standing upright..very much a newbie here..
I just make a square cut butt joint and join with 2 #10 biscuits.
vertical cuts only work with millwork small enough for the saws cutting capacity. learn both techniques and you will be able to be efficient. I'm not a production contractor though, mainly custom.
Very thorough video and solid information. Thank you.
I would like to see an in depth demo on how to measure wall then how to measure that onto the base board, how to cut on
Or next to line , and whether to measure your length to back side of mitre cut? My piece always “ shrinks “ after i cut the measurement!
you are amazing ~ I have learned so much from you 👍🏻😊
This is incredibly helpful. Amazing really. Thank you for helping even an apprentice trim carpenter like me… 🤞🏽
Man I would love to be an apprentice under you. Thanks for the insight. So good.
of instead of wasting cash buying Auxiliary Fences attach a piece of 1x6 to the stock fence with double stick tape or drill a couple of holes in the fence and use some screws to attach the 1x6
Because my time is worth money and these work better.
Improving the wings improves cutting on the flat, or on the vertical.
But thanks for the tip of cutting upside down on the flat
I'm a trim carpenter/ cabinet maker of 33years, I cut my base and crown on the flat with my Bosch Axial glide saw, and it comes out perfect, and I'm not limited to height of base or crown moulding, so I submit my method is better, BUT, you must have a slide, or glide saw with detents at 31, and 33 degree's, which most tradesmen do have.
Thanks for the good info. I run the far walls and longest walls first with square cuts. This makes efficient use of material, avoids having to cope long pieces, and fewer pieces have copes.
I got a chuckle from the idea of the flat reference thing, since that FJ material is likely to be straighter than the subfloors are flat. A couple of other details are relieving the back of the base in the corners, and for base on a finish floor, I often put a tiny chamfer on the bottom edge, to give a clean line & make the painter's life easier.
I like your idea of far walls and longest walls first, then cope the shorter walls. I'm mathematically challenged so that sounds easier for me.
Lots of good arguments and some weak ones but I'm still going to cut base flat, face down with the top facing me. I take my measurements from the walls at approximately the top of where the base will be. The backside of the base is the wall and the mark is easier to see and cut if it's on the back. Self returns are also for me easier to do on the flat.
100%
In Sweden we often use pre painted baseboards.. so I , depending on angel of course, always have the painted 2sides towards my eyes.. the backside doesn’t get as good crisp cut as the 2 sides towards you. Make sense?
Yep. With pre finished trim, you can (and will) have some tearout on the top edge. I did alot of pre finished oak trim, and cutting upside down is a certain way to ruin pieces.
Great video. I like to keep a rat tail file and a 4 way file nearby to clean up the cope if needed. I always back cut it 5 degrees... gonna try just a straight cut on the next one... I'm 65 and still doing cabinet and trim work. Who sez you can't teach an ol' dog new tricks? ... ha.
Same way we do base. Great video man! Always enjoy.
What is your opinion of the Makita miter saw? You can adjust the bevel from a knob in the front of the saw rather than reaching around to the back of the saw.
Excellent explanation Spencer
Nice tip, I have a building I'll try to put that in action. Tks
Good video 👍🏼
I've always cut my baseboards vertically and then cope them with the table saw ( under 4') because it's easier faster & the blade back cuts the cope at the same time 🤷🏼♂️
Great vid mate as always and very informative
What happened to that house that had brick on front and water was causing problems on inside. At the time you couldn’t find what was going on. I forget the episode but it was a while ago. You do great work and videos.
I've watched so many videos lately about baseboard install & almost every one has either the plain flat baseboard or ones like the one Spencer is using here. Around here most houses have the colonial-style baseboard that has a lot of profile design which is not as easy to deal with in my opinion
Another great video Spencer
Learning a lot! Thanks for the help.
You briefly made reference to the Festool mitre saw. Have you made video of your preference? I'm a simple DIY home guy. I actually have both mitre saws, a long story. I Really don't need both but not sure which one to keep.
I have a video about miter saws. See my channel list.
Excellent video. I appreciate the tips! Cheers.
I’ve never thought to cut it upside down. That’s genius
Excellent video! Love the progress dude!
ive always cut vertically for outside corners your 45's come out perfect the blade doesnt flex but if im doing inside corners coping ill cut it with my coping saw
Do you your copes on the left
*Welcome Back*
As always great video mate really enjoy your stuff I must admit got a bit confusing near the end but I can see where you’re coming from 🤪🤪
I tend to cut my skirting vertical anyway so next time ill cut it upside down and try it your way... I must admit it does look a lot easier👍👍👍👍
Brilliant. Another great tip. Thank you, Spencer!!!
So what you're saying Spencer is cope to the left 90 to the right then when you're running around the room going towards the right the next piece will be cope to the left and again 90 to the right. So if we're cutting upside down the cope is always going to fit on the left side as we install the board is that correct
aloha , great tips. do you have any vids on your lumber racks and your miter custom wings.. mahalo
I just started following your channel, awesome work! I'll defiantly be checking out more videos!
Separate question for you, how did you make your "Legs" / "Wings" chop saw that you use in this video?
I have a similar stand and been trying to figure out way's to create a couple.
Love your videos man. Do you have a video covering your material rack? If not I would like to see how it's built.
I will try to throw up a video sometime soon.
If the base that you are butting a coped end is not plumb, it is easy to do a bevel cut with the wood laying flat and adjust the miter left or right a couple degrees. Then, cope it.
Great video as always! I cut my base upside down and backwards. Was just about to ask about those fences when you started to explain where you got them. I will be getting me a set for taller base.
He thinks everything through thougroughly, I love it