Hi Corvin, great video by the way. I did notice you mentioned in your video that you bypassed the IAC coolant hose. How is it running with the bypass not being connected to the IAC? Also Is it possible to make a simple video how you did the bypass and with your honest opinion if it's worth the trade off. I am considering changing out my IAC and I would rather bypass it if it doesn't cause any other issues. I do live in a warm climate area. Waiting on your reply. Sorry ... do you recommend to buy only OEM parts or will a generic brand work too? Also what is the coupler hose size to connect both coolant hoses? I am on a budget myself and I can use all the help I can get. Thanks so much!
bypassing the IACV coolant hose can lead to reduced engine performance, especially in colder climates. The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) is responsible for regulating the amount of air that enters the engine when the throttle is closed, which is necessary for smooth idling and low-speed operation. When the engine is cold, the IACV needs to be warmed up quickly to prevent stalling and rough idling. Without the coolant hose, the IACV may take longer to warm up, leading to poor engine performance and increased fuel consumption. In addition, bypassing the IACV coolant hose could also lead to increased engine wear and tear due to the lack of lubrication and cooling provided by the coolant. This could lead to premature engine failure and costly repairs. Overall, the trade-off between bypassing the IACV coolant hose and leaving it in place depends on the climate and the driver's preferences. If the driver lives in a warm climate and doesn't mind sacrificing some engine performance, bypassing the hose may be a viable option. However, if the driver lives in a cold climate or values optimal engine performance and longevity, it may be best to leave the hose in place and monitor the IACV for leaks.
The IACV coolant hose on a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder with a VQ35DE engine is typically a 5/16" (8mm) hose. To connect two 5/16" (8mm) hoses together, you can use a barbed hose connector. This is a fitting that has a barbed end on each side that allows the hoses to be pushed onto the fitting and held in place with hose clamps. There are also straight and elbow-shaped hose connectors available, depending on the routing and spacing of the hoses being connected. It is important to ensure that the barb size and shape of the connector matches the size and shape of the hoses being connected to ensure a secure and leak-free connection. It is recommended to use high-quality hose connectors and hose clamps to ensure a safe and reliable repair, typically a stainless steel one.
To do the idle relearn you turn the key on for 2 seconds turn it off for 10 seconds then let it warm up after it has warmed up the temperature you turn the car back on and start it then you disconnect the grey connector to your throttle position sensor and within five seconds you reconnect it that will solve your idle relearn wait 30 seconds and you're good to go you can turn the car off and on and your idle has been read learned
Great job,, Only would have been good to show the inside of the valve body where the seal has failed. Two years ago i found that this rubber seal/gasket had failed and was seeping coolant into the IACV area causing idling problems from corrosion on the seating area when the valve seats and controls fine air control and idle speed. I cleaned the seating area that valve seats against and installed new gasket and all was fine for 2 years. But yesterday my car wont start at idle but only if i give more throttle. I think the valve is sticking but after driving some it seems to idle and restart fine now..my guess is if i leave the car sit for about a week again it will seep coolant back in and cause issue again. I guess i can consider myself lucky that it hadnt fried my ECM yet! I live in area that doesnt freeze so I'll bypass the coolant lines. This was for 2002 Nissan Pathfinder I tried to post some pics I had but wouldnt let me do it here Thanks for all the time you put into this video and sharing with us....Well done
Thank you, yeah this IACV thing was a very confusing thing to figure out for me, you would think surging RPM’s or having to give it throttle to start would be something simple like a vacuum leak or clogged fuel filter but its not. Glad you got yours all figured out!
@SupraKing12365 I also thought the same. Replaced the fuel filter on '01 QX4 and then replaced the upper air cleaner hose and another vacuum hose connected to the throttle body when inspecting it(both had cracks) My issue wasn't corrected and I had checked codes prior to that and didn't see anything related but later I did get the P0505 for the IACV. I've already installed a new IACV and cranked so hopefully I didn't burn out the new IACV. I'll be trying to get the replacement chip and solder as well.
I had the same problem with mine but it did not cause the ECU to short out I cleaned out the throttle body put a new idle air control valve on with a new throttle position sensor and everything was good to go I hear a lot about burning out the chip but I've never had that happen
thank you for your video. I have a big problem with my car and I couldn't found any solution. My car when it's worm up it refuse to answer to my leg acceleration can you help me? I lost alot of money because of it and no one know the problem
Whats the year make and model? How does the engine feel when it runs? is it very non responsive and vibrate a-lot? I would think maybe a vacuum leak, head gasket, or fuel issue (fuel pump, regulator)
Im haveing problem with my pathfinder stalling when put into gear. It would always shut off on cold start unless i hold to 1000 rpm for 5 seconds. When warm its good. And many more things i could explain lol. Shop is saying touque converter but i gavent had any probs with trans. So i doubt its that i hope atleast lol
Great job , I have 2004 pathfinder that cut off at 2500-2800 rpm like a rev limiter, I changed the swirl control solenoid, and it doesn’t solve the problem, is changing the ECM could help ?! Thanks
2004 Nissan Pathfinder with a VQ35DE engine that cuts off at 2500-2800 RPM: 1. Clogged fuel filter 2. Faulty mass airflow sensor (MAF) 3. Ignition system issues (worn spark plugs, faulty ignition coil, malfunctioning distributor) 4. Transmission issues (failing transmission or torque converter that stalls the engine at a high RPM) 5. Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS) 6. Misadjusted or damaged throttle plate position screw (screw should allow plate to be fully closed) 7. Faulty engine control module (ECM) 8. Vacuum leak in the intake system (most common source of high erratic RPM’s) 9. Faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator 10. Restricted exhaust system (unlikely) 11. Failed oxygen sensor (will only effect engine fuel air ratio/timing) 12. Malfunctioning EGR valve 13. Restricted air filter 14. Worn timing belt or chain (unlikely maybe) 15. Low engine oil pressure 16. Failed catalytic converter (same effect as o2 sensor) 17. Failed camshaft position sensor 18. Failed crankshaft position sensor
So as long as the IACV hasn't fried the ECU yet, I'm good to just replace the IACV/Throttle-body gasket and be done with it? Trying to get some preventative maintenance.
Hi, I'm going through the same issue right now, with my car idling in park between 1500-2000rpm. I got the P0505 code unfortunately. I hope this isn't a dumb question, but how do you know if the ECM is burned out/needs replacing? I am assuming I will need to change the IAVC already, just don't know much about the ECM portion. thank you for your help!
Hi and thank you for reaching out. Usually, if a vehicle is idling high or low it will be caused by a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak will cause the IACV to adjust to it and throw a code. Before you purchase a new IACV, I would actually recommend buying a smoke leak detector and doing a vacuum test on the crank case. Turns out that my IACV kept going bad from a rear main seal leaking and causing the engine to idle very low, however the high idle and "hunting" RPM could be caused by: Vacuum leak (Probable), Throttle Plate screw holding the throttle plate slightly open (it has to be fully closed), MAF (Mass airflow sensor will cause high idle and hunting if connection is bad loose or sensor is bad), or a throttle cable is too tight. If you check all of these things I have listed then I would suspect IACV and ECM are bad. DO check for coolant leaks near the IACV (located underneath the throttle body). Hope this helps!
@@rrod8902 you can use either or. Personally, I used a regular Allen key shaped like an L, I used a small hammer and back them loose. I would just make sure you have the right size and don't strip them out.
I believe the nissan sunny or (Sentra) has a 4 cylinder engine equipped with an electric throttle body, I dont believe it has an Idle Air Control Valve, it would just be the electric TB itself that controls the idle. I believe its a 6 pin connection from the TB to the wiring harness.
The wiring diagram for the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) to ECU (Engine Control Unit) on a 2005 Nissan Sunny may vary depending on the specific model and engine type. However, here is a general diagram for a Nissan Sunny with a QG15DE engine: - Pin 1 on the IACV (black/yellow wire) is connected to pin 35 on the ECU (black/yellow wire). - Pin 2 on the IACV (white wire) is connected to pin 34 on the ECU (white wire). - Pin 3 on the IACV (black wire) is connected to ground. It is important to note that this diagram is for reference only and may not be applicable to all models and engine types. It is recommended to consult the vehicle's owner's manual for the correct diagram.
I have a problem with the air conditioner, the right of the car, Nissan 2004, does not separate and cools automatically, it works constantly, what is the solution?
I believe the AC compressor is on the driver side of the engine bay, on the front bottom corner of the engine for the 02-04 Nissan pathfinder and Infiniti QX4
When you say the AC is cooling automatically, do you mean the AC head unit is always on auto? Even when you change the fan speed or mode? That might be a head unit electrical problem and not an AC compressor issue.
You mentioned that you replaced the valve many times. With each time you changed the valve did you fix the ecu? I guess what I’m asking is, is it possible for the iac valve to go bad without frying the ecu?
I’ll reply to myself for anyone needing more info. I had the same issue. Fortunately I didn’t have to fix the ecm. The idle was low and then would stall when it got warm. I didn’t drive mine after my car stalled so maybe that’s what saved the ecm. Also. No coolant was in my iac connector. I just changed the iac and did the idle relearn. NOTE. YOU DO NOT NEED THE scanner to do the idle relearn procedure. You can follow the steps via owners Manual unplugging the tps sensors, ect.
So, originally i thought i just had a bad IACV, so i replaced it when it started surging. But 2 weeks later the surging would come back. I couldn’t figure it out until I came across a nissan forum talking about ECU’s burning out from bad IACV’s and then I saw a video of a guy describing the exact problem. So the second time I replaced the IACV i then soldered the chip in the ECU and everything was fine and dandy until the long trip from SC to texas. The coolant burst out from the IACV like a volcano and fried everything again. So i bypassed the hose from the IACV and drove from texas back to SC with a burnt IACV and that fried my ECU too again.. so then my third time replacing the IACV and ECU chip i made this vid after that road trip. You could very well have a ok ECU. But what made me take the chance in soldering the ECU was that when i looked online at getting a new ECU all together theres a sticker on the back of a new ECU that says “warranty voided if IACV is not replaced at same time”
@@WhereisNate yes you DONT need the scanner software to relearn the vehicle. I only use it because ive tried the key on off thing at least 100 times and its never worked. The NDS2 software just eliminates that frustration
Yes it's possible for the IAC valve to go bad I had replaced one on my 2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE also had to clean the throttle bottle and put a new throttle position sensor on it and I did not burn the ECU or short out any chip I did have the idle surge so I did the idle relearn where you unplug the grey connector I went in 5 seconds plug it back in and it will reset itself
Hi Corvin, great video by the way. I did notice you mentioned in your video that you bypassed the IAC coolant hose. How is it running with the bypass not being connected to the IAC? Also Is it possible to make a simple video how you did the bypass and with your honest opinion if it's worth the trade off. I am considering changing out my IAC and I would rather bypass it if it doesn't cause any other issues. I do live in a warm climate area. Waiting on your reply. Sorry ... do you recommend to buy only OEM parts or will a generic brand work too? Also what is the coupler hose size to connect both coolant hoses? I am on a budget myself and I can use all the help I can get. Thanks so much!
bypassing the IACV coolant hose can lead to reduced engine performance, especially in colder climates. The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) is responsible for regulating the amount of air that enters the engine when the throttle is closed, which is necessary for smooth idling and low-speed operation. When the engine is cold, the IACV needs to be warmed up quickly to prevent stalling and rough idling. Without the coolant hose, the IACV may take longer to warm up, leading to poor engine performance and increased fuel consumption.
In addition, bypassing the IACV coolant hose could also lead to increased engine wear and tear due to the lack of lubrication and cooling provided by the coolant. This could lead to premature engine failure and costly repairs.
Overall, the trade-off between bypassing the IACV coolant hose and leaving it in place depends on the climate and the driver's preferences. If the driver lives in a warm climate and doesn't mind sacrificing some engine performance, bypassing the hose may be a viable option. However, if the driver lives in a cold climate or values optimal engine performance and longevity, it may be best to leave the hose in place and monitor the IACV for leaks.
The IACV coolant hose on a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder with a VQ35DE engine is typically a 5/16" (8mm) hose. To connect two 5/16" (8mm) hoses together, you can use a barbed hose connector. This is a fitting that has a barbed end on each side that allows the hoses to be pushed onto the fitting and held in place with hose clamps.
There are also straight and elbow-shaped hose connectors available, depending on the routing and spacing of the hoses being connected. It is important to ensure that the barb size and shape of the connector matches the size and shape of the hoses being connected to ensure a secure and leak-free connection.
It is recommended to use high-quality hose connectors and hose clamps to ensure a safe and reliable repair, typically a stainless steel one.
@@SupraKing12365 I appreciate your honesty and full description to educate me in what to expect in the long run. God bless you!
@@SupraKing12365 Thank you for taking the time to share your valuable information.
@@lnkee Absolutely, if you ever need any help regarding your pathfinder I am always here to help!
To do the idle relearn you turn the key on for 2 seconds turn it off for 10 seconds then let it warm up after it has warmed up the temperature you turn the car back on and start it then you disconnect the grey connector to your throttle position sensor and within five seconds you reconnect it that will solve your idle relearn wait 30 seconds and you're good to go you can turn the car off and on and your idle has been read learned
Great job,, Only would have been good to show the inside of the valve body where the seal has failed.
Two years ago i found that this rubber seal/gasket had failed and was seeping coolant into the IACV area causing idling problems
from corrosion on the seating area when the valve seats and controls fine air control and idle speed.
I cleaned the seating area that valve seats against and installed new gasket and all was fine for 2 years.
But yesterday my car wont start at idle but only if i give more throttle.
I think the valve is sticking but after driving some it seems to idle and restart fine now..my guess is if i leave the car sit for about a week again it will seep coolant back in and cause issue again. I guess i can consider myself lucky that it hadnt fried my ECM yet!
I live in area that doesnt freeze so I'll bypass the coolant lines.
This was for 2002 Nissan Pathfinder
I tried to post some pics I had but wouldnt let me do it here
Thanks for all the time you put into this video and sharing with us....Well done
Thank you, yeah this IACV thing was a very confusing thing to figure out for me, you would think surging RPM’s or having to give it throttle to start would be something simple like a vacuum leak or clogged fuel filter but its not. Glad you got yours all figured out!
@SupraKing12365 I also thought the same. Replaced the fuel filter on '01 QX4 and then replaced the upper air cleaner hose and another vacuum hose connected to the throttle body when inspecting it(both had cracks) My issue wasn't corrected and I had checked codes prior to that and didn't see anything related but later I did get the P0505 for the IACV. I've already installed a new IACV and cranked so hopefully I didn't burn out the new IACV. I'll be trying to get the replacement chip and solder as well.
I had the same problem with mine but it did not cause the ECU to short out I cleaned out the throttle body put a new idle air control valve on with a new throttle position sensor and everything was good to go I hear a lot about burning out the chip but I've never had that happen
thank you for your video. I have a big problem with my car and I couldn't found any solution.
My car when it's worm up it refuse to answer to my leg acceleration can you help me? I lost alot of money because of it and no one know the problem
Whats the year make and model? How does the engine feel when it runs? is it very non responsive and vibrate a-lot? I would think maybe a vacuum leak, head gasket, or fuel issue (fuel pump, regulator)
Im haveing problem with my pathfinder stalling when put into gear. It would always shut off on cold start unless i hold to 1000 rpm for 5 seconds. When warm its good. And many more things i could explain lol. Shop is saying touque converter but i gavent had any probs with trans. So i doubt its that i hope atleast lol
Great job.
Great video, thanks!!!
Excellent vid thanks
Great job , I have 2004 pathfinder that cut off at 2500-2800 rpm like a rev limiter, I changed the swirl control solenoid, and it doesn’t solve the problem, is changing the ECM could help ?!
Thanks
2004 Nissan Pathfinder with a VQ35DE engine that cuts off at 2500-2800 RPM:
1. Clogged fuel filter
2. Faulty mass airflow sensor (MAF)
3. Ignition system issues (worn spark plugs, faulty ignition coil, malfunctioning distributor)
4. Transmission issues (failing transmission or torque converter that stalls the engine at a high RPM)
5. Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS)
6. Misadjusted or damaged throttle plate position screw (screw should allow plate to be fully closed)
7. Faulty engine control module (ECM)
8. Vacuum leak in the intake system (most common source of high erratic RPM’s)
9. Faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator
10. Restricted exhaust system (unlikely)
11. Failed oxygen sensor (will only effect engine fuel air ratio/timing)
12. Malfunctioning EGR valve
13. Restricted air filter
14. Worn timing belt or chain (unlikely maybe)
15. Low engine oil pressure
16. Failed catalytic converter (same effect as o2 sensor)
17. Failed camshaft position sensor
18. Failed crankshaft position sensor
So as long as the IACV hasn't fried the ECU yet, I'm good to just replace the IACV/Throttle-body gasket and be done with it? Trying to get some preventative maintenance.
Yes, but be aware that if the ECU is indeed fried, it will destroy your new IACV within days or weeks.
@@SupraKing12365 okay but if neither has fried yet; vehicle runs great; I don’t have to replace the IACV right, just that gasket and I’m good?
@@on1ytheb3styeah, if neither are fried you can just replace gasket.
Hi, I'm going through the same issue right now, with my car idling in park between 1500-2000rpm. I got the P0505 code unfortunately. I hope this isn't a dumb question, but how do you know if the ECM is burned out/needs replacing? I am assuming I will need to change the IAVC already, just don't know much about the ECM portion. thank you for your help!
Hi and thank you for reaching out. Usually, if a vehicle is idling high or low it will be caused by a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak will cause the IACV to adjust to it and throw a code. Before you purchase a new IACV, I would actually recommend buying a smoke leak detector and doing a vacuum test on the crank case. Turns out that my IACV kept going bad from a rear main seal leaking and causing the engine to idle very low, however the high idle and "hunting" RPM could be caused by: Vacuum leak (Probable), Throttle Plate screw holding the throttle plate slightly open (it has to be fully closed), MAF (Mass airflow sensor will cause high idle and hunting if connection is bad loose or sensor is bad), or a throttle cable is too tight. If you check all of these things I have listed then I would suspect IACV and ECM are bad. DO check for coolant leaks near the IACV (located underneath the throttle body). Hope this helps!
hello, what socket/tool do you need to remove the throttle body?
Throttle body has 4 Allen key bolts holding it on
@@SupraKing12365 thank you! sorry, if this is a dumb question. is it better/safer to remove the bolts using socket wrench or a power tool?
@@rrod8902 you can use either or. Personally, I used a regular Allen key shaped like an L, I used a small hammer and back them loose. I would just make sure you have the right size and don't strip them out.
Now what happens is
Can you share wiring diagram of idle air control valve nissan sunny 2005
I believe the nissan sunny or (Sentra) has a 4 cylinder engine equipped with an electric throttle body, I dont believe it has an Idle Air Control Valve, it would just be the electric TB itself that controls the idle. I believe its a 6 pin connection from the TB to the wiring harness.
@Corvin Shaw no sir it is not equipped with electric throttle paddle and it have idle air control valve sentra and nissan sunny have same engine
The wiring diagram for the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) to ECU (Engine Control Unit) on a 2005 Nissan Sunny may vary depending on the specific model and engine type. However, here is a general diagram for a Nissan Sunny with a QG15DE engine:
- Pin 1 on the IACV (black/yellow wire) is connected to pin 35 on the ECU (black/yellow wire).
- Pin 2 on the IACV (white wire) is connected to pin 34 on the ECU (white wire).
- Pin 3 on the IACV (black wire) is connected to ground.
It is important to note that this diagram is for reference only and may not be applicable to all models and engine types. It is recommended to consult the vehicle's owner's manual for the correct diagram.
I have a problem with the air conditioner, the right of the car, Nissan 2004, does not separate and cools automatically, it works constantly, what is the solution?
I believe the AC compressor is on the driver side of the engine bay, on the front bottom corner of the engine for the 02-04 Nissan pathfinder and Infiniti QX4
When you say the AC is cooling automatically, do you mean the AC head unit is always on auto? Even when you change the fan speed or mode? That might be a head unit electrical problem and not an AC compressor issue.
Where did you order the chip from ?
Amazon
Thank you
You mentioned that you replaced the valve many times. With each time you changed the valve did you fix the ecu? I guess what I’m asking is, is it possible for the iac valve to go bad without frying the ecu?
Also is the issue resolved now?
I’ll reply to myself for anyone needing more info. I had the same issue. Fortunately I didn’t have to fix the ecm. The idle was low and then would stall when it got warm. I didn’t drive mine after my car stalled so maybe that’s what saved the ecm. Also. No coolant was in my iac connector. I just changed the iac and did the idle relearn. NOTE. YOU DO NOT NEED THE scanner to do the idle relearn procedure. You can follow the steps via owners Manual unplugging the tps sensors, ect.
So, originally i thought i just had a bad IACV, so i replaced it when it started surging. But 2 weeks later the surging would come back. I couldn’t figure it out until I came across a nissan forum talking about ECU’s burning out from bad IACV’s and then I saw a video of a guy describing the exact problem. So the second time I replaced the IACV i then soldered the chip in the ECU and everything was fine and dandy until the long trip from SC to texas. The coolant burst out from the IACV like a volcano and fried everything again. So i bypassed the hose from the IACV and drove from texas back to SC with a burnt IACV and that fried my ECU too again.. so then my third time replacing the IACV and ECU chip i made this vid after that road trip. You could very well have a ok ECU. But what made me take the chance in soldering the ECU was that when i looked online at getting a new ECU all together theres a sticker on the back of a new ECU that says “warranty voided if IACV is not replaced at same time”
@@WhereisNate yes you DONT need the scanner software to relearn the vehicle. I only use it because ive tried the key on off thing at least 100 times and its never worked. The NDS2 software just eliminates that frustration
Yes it's possible for the IAC valve to go bad I had replaced one on my 2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE also had to clean the throttle bottle and put a new throttle position sensor on it and I did not burn the ECU or short out any chip I did have the idle surge so I did the idle relearn where you unplug the grey connector I went in 5 seconds plug it back in and it will reset itself
Great video
What is the name of the program?
NDS II (Nissan Data-scan 2)
Nice!