A couple of observations; #1- I detect some new flares in the editing dept, nice touches. #2- All TH-cam videos are for entertainment general knowledge. not irrefutable technical specifications. Those that think otherwise should keep their comment to themselves. We're damn lucky to benefit from your experience. Common sense is require. #3- In the Suzuki video the "Lay Down " comment was not missed . F'n funny. KC did 2 tours. Enjoy your work. I appreciate the effort it takes and commitment it requires. Just finished the CT70, back to the YZ250F tomorrow. Hope you played with the Seadoo this weekend ✌ PS: thoughtful & clever of you doing the manual offer 👍
Well done. The carb removal and install is definitely absurd on these. I use the rear subframe pivot bolt to hold the subframe up out of the way. Remove the shock. When reinstalling it's best to leave the shock bolts out, then fit the rear boot first. Then it's easier to pry the carb into the front intake rubber. If stubborn a little lube helps. Also motion pro 3" longer throttle cables make installing the cables much easier, the stock ones are too short anyway.
After seeing all your videos, I knew you had cleaned the cylinder. It would be extremely difficult to film these videos. I’ve done a lot of what you are doing and can’t imagine narrating or filming. Great videos!
Before continuing on with the video and reading the rest of the comments. I’d check the valve clearance again first then the decomp lever and if nothing continue on to pulling the top end and checking cams for wear and valves.
Hell ya, I have the same year and model. I’m currently replacing my entire valve train, piston, timing chain, and cut the valve seats. Can’t wait to assemble it along with this video! Should be running by this next weekend
@@restoroosterohv local kid I use to do all his Twostroke engines until he went pro and got on 250fs. He use to blow those things up left and right. His dad hated them 😆😆
@thetwostrokerebuilder of course at my age, I grew up on 2 strokes. I still get nostalgic for them time and again but always go back to my 450F. I don’t race so it rarely sees the limiter.
@@restoroosterohv nice. I raced for 25 years until getting hurt bad in 2020 so no more racing unfortunately. I raced 125-250 Twostroke but did try a 450 back in 16-17' but ended up back on a 250 Twostroke 😀 at my level just local vet A stuff bike size doesn't matter. 450 was fast as shit I liked it but didn't like the engine breaking
@@thetwostrokerebuilder It's certainly different how the two respond. I like the 450 because I call it the lazy man's bike. I doesn't care what gear your in or whether you use the clutch enough, it just pulls hard through the powerband.
Great job on getting the bike back up and running I really enjoy watching the process you go through on fixing these bikes keep it up God bless you from Tennessee
Hey man I watch alot of bike builds..alot Ive already picked up new tips from only watching two of your videos..keep up the good the work! I will add you to my daily entertainment..Plus your never going to please everyone
dang it, i just saw you use silcone grease earlier...you need to use silicone grease for brake pin lube as well...always wheelie in the hood as well...
This was my old bike I kinda figured it was the top end that went out, had no clue the upper motor mount was missing… and I only ran ethanol free gas in it, when I first got the bike it had a newer year model black front plate on it so I replaced it to the OG white and didn’t even notice the front brake line routed incorrectly lol it didn’t have any graphics… I did the graphics myself, I had bought a whole 164 bolt/screw set for it and never even used it Lol. Bought a carb rebuild kit for it, and even a new side cover gasket kit for it… and none of it got used sadly. Just got to busy with work and didn’t have the time to rebuild the bike, my buddy had a 2006 and he put racing cams in his and I was going to do it to this one but lost interest whenever I realized how pricey these bikes are lol.
At 5:05 in the video after kicking over I would check to see if I’m getting gas and spark then I’m checking valve clearance I’m betting that’s where the problem lies
Step 1: make sure fuel Petcock works Step 2: check spark Step 3: check compression Step 4: go through carb If it's still not running I would check valve clearances and timing, if it's still not running then I don't know lol
You shouldn't have pumped the throttle to start with. Instantly fouled the plug. I would have first checked air filter for dirt in intake. Then check fuel for water. Then check for spark. Then set to TDC and check valve train.
Hello Peter. I would like your opinion on changing titanium valves to stainsteel valves. Is this dangerous for the engine even with the correct springs? One guy told me you had to stick with titanium valves because of the forces on the chain and camshaft. Explain everything to me. Thanks Peter, appreciate your content!
I almost exclusively use stainless valves in place of expensive titanium. They work great as long as you update the springs as well. The titanium is lighter and therefore need a lighter tension spring. If you put the heavier stainless valves with stock springs, they may float during high engine speeds causing a valve to hit the piston.
@juju-of2by no, no long-term problems. install your valves properly and let it rip. You could recheck your valve clearances after a few hours of riding but other than that you’re good to go.
A couple of observations; #1- I detect some new flares in the editing dept, nice touches. #2- All TH-cam videos are for entertainment general knowledge. not irrefutable technical specifications. Those that think otherwise should keep their comment to themselves. We're damn lucky to benefit from your experience. Common sense is require. #3- In the Suzuki video the "Lay Down " comment was not missed . F'n funny. KC did 2 tours. Enjoy your work. I appreciate the effort it takes and commitment it requires. Just finished the CT70, back to the YZ250F tomorrow. Hope you played with the Seadoo this weekend ✌ PS: thoughtful & clever of you doing the manual offer 👍
Thank you as always for your support. It means a lot.
Well done. The carb removal and install is definitely absurd on these. I use the rear subframe pivot bolt to hold the subframe up out of the way. Remove the shock. When reinstalling it's best to leave the shock bolts out, then fit the rear boot first. Then it's easier to pry the carb into the front intake rubber. If stubborn a little lube helps. Also motion pro 3" longer throttle cables make installing the cables much easier, the stock ones are too short anyway.
They sure are. Thanks for watching.
After seeing all your videos, I knew you had cleaned the cylinder. It would be extremely difficult to film these videos. I’ve done a lot of what you are doing and can’t imagine narrating or filming. Great videos!
Thank you as always
Before continuing on with the video and reading the rest of the comments.
I’d check the valve clearance again first then the decomp lever and if nothing continue on to pulling the top end and checking cams for wear and valves.
Yes, timing and valve clearance would be a good start. These bikes no longer employ the decomp lever but it is built into the exhaust cam.
Hell ya, I have the same year and model. I’m currently replacing my entire valve train, piston, timing chain, and cut the valve seats. Can’t wait to assemble it along with this video! Should be running by this next weekend
Thanks for watching and best of luck with your build.
Nice 👍👍 I was still on Twostrokes in 04 but those 250s were ticking time bombs for fast racers ✊✊
Yeah, I think they called for a complete rebuild like every 10 hours or so.
@@restoroosterohv local kid I use to do all his Twostroke engines until he went pro and got on 250fs. He use to blow those things up left and right. His dad hated them 😆😆
@thetwostrokerebuilder of course at my age, I grew up on 2 strokes. I still get nostalgic for them time and again but always go back to my 450F. I don’t race so it rarely sees the limiter.
@@restoroosterohv nice. I raced for 25 years until getting hurt bad in 2020 so no more racing unfortunately. I raced 125-250 Twostroke but did try a 450 back in 16-17' but ended up back on a 250 Twostroke 😀 at my level just local vet A stuff bike size doesn't matter. 450 was fast as shit I liked it but didn't like the engine breaking
@@thetwostrokerebuilder It's certainly different how the two respond. I like the 450 because I call it the lazy man's bike. I doesn't care what gear your in or whether you use the clutch enough, it just pulls hard through the powerband.
Perfectly said about entertainment purposes. Keep up the great videos and I truly enjoy them!
Thank you for your feedback and support
Another great video!!!
Thank you Joel
Great video Peter. Entertaining as always ! Cheers
Thank you for you continued support
Great job on getting the bike back up and running I really enjoy watching the process you go through on fixing these bikes keep it up God bless you from Tennessee
Thank you for your feedback and support
Hey man
I watch alot of bike builds..alot
Ive already picked up new tips from only watching two of your videos..keep up the good the work! I will add you to my daily entertainment..Plus your never going to please everyone
Thank you for your kind words and support!
dang it, i just saw you use silcone grease earlier...you need to use silicone grease for brake pin lube as well...always wheelie in the hood as well...
Haha, it’s like Franks hot sauce “use that ish on everything”. Small wheelies, to many older residents and I actually like them.
Don't need the top motor mount anyway 😂. Love your sense of humour man 👌 Keep up the good work
Thank you for your support
Love your vids man, keep them coming!! 👊👏
Thank you
Videos are great I enjoy watching! People need to understand how hard it is to film!
Thanks Rick
This was my old bike I kinda figured it was the top end that went out, had no clue the upper motor mount was missing… and I only ran ethanol free gas in it, when I first got the bike it had a newer year model black front plate on it so I replaced it to the OG white and didn’t even notice the front brake line routed incorrectly lol it didn’t have any graphics… I did the graphics myself, I had bought a whole 164 bolt/screw set for it and never even used it Lol. Bought a carb rebuild kit for it, and even a new side cover gasket kit for it… and none of it got used sadly. Just got to busy with work and didn’t have the time to rebuild the bike, my buddy had a 2006 and he put racing cams in his and I was going to do it to this one but lost interest whenever I realized how pricey these bikes are lol.
Thank you for the insight and for selling it to me.
At 5:05 in the video after kicking over I would check to see if I’m getting gas and spark then I’m checking valve clearance I’m betting that’s where the problem lies
Thank you for your comment.
Great content, easy to follow and understand with a bit of "common sense" 👍
Thank you
yeah that midbody gasket came out cock-eyed...
Yes sir
Great video. Keep going man.
Thank you for your feedback and support
Always check spark B4 tearing into the engine. That would be my move.
That’s always a good plan as long as the engine rotates.
@@restoroosterohv of course
Great video.
Thank you
Check the valve clearance and timing would be my first step.
Yes sir
Step 1: make sure fuel Petcock works
Step 2: check spark
Step 3: check compression
Step 4: go through carb
If it's still not running I would check valve clearances and timing, if it's still not running then I don't know lol
Thank you for your comment.
10:46 a washer falls down to chain opening
Lucky enough to be able to fish it out with a magnet otherwise off with the magnet cover.
Id take the exhaust pipe off and put a camera up in the cylinder and see if there's any damage to the valves or the piston
Fair enough, if you have an endoscope. This particular bike had tons of compression so I was fairly confident there were no bent valves.
You shouldn't have pumped the throttle to start with. Instantly fouled the plug. I would have first checked air filter for dirt in intake. Then check fuel for water. Then check for spark. Then set to TDC and check valve train.
Thank you for your comment
Hello Peter. I would like your opinion on changing titanium valves to stainsteel valves. Is this dangerous for the engine even with the correct springs? One guy told me you had to stick with titanium valves because of the forces on the chain and camshaft. Explain everything to me. Thanks Peter, appreciate your content!
I almost exclusively use stainless valves in place of expensive titanium. They work great as long as you update the springs as well. The titanium is lighter and therefore need a lighter tension spring. If you put the heavier stainless valves with stock springs, they may float during high engine speeds causing a valve to hit the piston.
@restoroosterohv
So no long term problem? Is the break-in done with the old valve like the titanium ones or with the new one?
@juju-of2by no, no long-term problems. install your valves properly and let it rip. You could recheck your valve clearances after a few hours of riding but other than that you’re good to go.
@@restoroosterohv thanks Peter! 👍
Awesome video man
Thank you, appreciate your feedback
spark ? timing ?
Yes and yes
Check for spark and clean fuel
Thank you for your comment
No new chain😮
The chain was in great shape, just a tick of superficial surface rust.