ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2018
- In this video I’m Milling an Aluminium Bottle Openers on my CNC 6040 Router. I wanted a good vice for my CNC Router for a long time but it took me a while to find one that was small enough to fit on my machine.
Affiliate links to the end mills:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
...
This are the affiliate links with discount coupons to products used in this video:
Heavy Duty Drill Press Vice Bench Clamp Woodworking Drilling Machine:bit.ly/2ohvRPj (10% OFF Coupon:Elec)
Double Face Rubber Hammer:bit.ly/2ojjgLr (10% OFF Coupon:Elec)
precision steel parallel:bit.ly/2BVUtXG
Double Flute Spiral End Mill Set :bit.ly/2LAf2Zf
Ball Nose End Mills:bit.ly/2PNjozd
...
Using a vice, instead of the t slot clamps that come with the CNC 6040 router, has some benefits. I want to test some face milling on Aluminium in the future so having a fixture that leaves the top surface without obstacles is necessary.
The double flute carbide end mills that I used work reasonably well on Aluminium. In a small test cut I did before this video I got even a nice surface finish on the sides of the opener. Unfortunately I made a mistake by mounting the vice in the middle of the table. the flexing of the gauntry and the machine bed is the worst in this position. Like you can see in the video, the surface finish is pretty bad because these vibrations. I will make another video of these end mills because I think they have a good price quality ratio for everyone that starts with a cheap router like the CNC 6040.
I’m thinking of keeping this beer opener design as a test workpiece for every new end mill I’m going to test on the CNC 6040 Router. They don’t take too long and the need several milling operations (face milling, pocket, contour, engraving and chamfer edge)
Support the channel: paypal.me/mbcreates
Six low budget end mills for aluminium:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
Test video with Feeds and Speeds: • Perfect beginner end m...
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music credits:
First song
Me 2 (Feat. Julian Avila) by LAKEY INSPIRED / lakeyinspired
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported - CC BY-SA 3.0
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Second song
Fresh Start by Joakim Karud / joakimkarud
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported- CC BY-SA 3.0
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Music promoted by Audio Library • Fresh Start - Joakim K...
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Six beginner/low budget end mills for aluminium(Affiliate links):
Test video with Feeds and Speeds: th-cam.com/video/M-1dYJWh3rw/w-d-xo.html
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
please send me information jose2580@hotmail.com
ozzyboard has some decent 5 dollar bits that are single flute, so much better for aluminum then 3 flute
Machinist with 25 years experience here and a couple of tips i could lend if you like? If you don't just say so after these. First thing is you always run a end mill in a climb cut on a cnc. For a few reasons, one is deflection when a cutter is cutting in normal mode it pulls itself into corners and leaves a dimple and chatters. Another reason to climb cut is surface finish, you can take a deflection pass at the end and since it was pushing away from the part a thousand or 2 you will get a sweet finish cut and finally the motors much prefer to climb cut as it needs nearly no torque to cut. With ballscrews you have no worries of a backlash crash.
Another tip is if you plan on cutting thru the stock you should use tabs, which is leaving 30 to 40 thousands of depth spaced out as you see fit to keep the part from rattling. I prefer to just leave .030 all around and flip it over and face mill the part down to size. It's nice also to run a 1/8 corner rounding end mill all around the profile on both sides for smoothness and you won't have to debur the part but it is tricky setting up the flip side to do this but well worth it.
Thanks! Good points.
Im not a machinist but have a little mill experience...was wondering why it would matter if u machine clockwise or ccw doing a cutout....i wouldnt think it would matter which direction you machine it ?
Most toolpaths made using cam software will do ccw toolpath from what i have seen
@@shelby50411 you should only climb cut on a cnc machine doing so on a manual mill can cause a crash due to the end mill grabbing. Cnc machines prefer this because that pulling helps out the motors, it is also helpful to climb cut to prevent end mill deflection into the part especially into inside corners like pockets and such.
yes i know that climb cutting in maunal mode can be dangerous and is not good and that climb butting is better on motors using cnc but when you do a cutout like this guy did in reality you are climb cutting and conventional cutting as your toolpath goes around....so there is no choice for climb cut or conventional cut in his case...or am i wrong?
@@shelby50411 haven't seen the video in a while but you can always choose which way you want to cut for each event. Like pocket or profile. I almost always choose climb for everything.
Even though I am a 25 year seasoned machinist I really love seeing more people learning this trade. I would love to help anyone with their maching/milling issues. BTW I love the CNC router you have! Very nice and I am envious.
Do you have a machine? I have some really interesting things I’ve designed in fusion and I am planning to buy a nomad 833 pro at some point, but can’t afford it yet and not quite done with the parts as to justify buying a machine. I am trying to meet people who also have machines. Let me know if you would talk, maybe discord or something.
@@felixman9691 I have acess to an entire machine shop. I love colaborating on projects and helping out. Jryanmaddy@gmail.com
I've had mine for almost a week and i cant figure out lazycam and mach 3 i just want to mill something and cant oh and i got my own lumber yard so endless material damit i cant wait
I agree with matthew
Another tip is if you plan on cutting thru the stock you should use tabs, which is leaving 30 to 40 thousands of depth spaced out as you see fit to keep the part from rattling. I prefer to just leave .030 all around and flip it over and face mill the part down to size. It's nice also to run a 1/8 corner rounding end mill all around the profile on both sides for smoothness and you won't have to debur the part but it is tricky setting up the flip side to do this but well worth it.
If you’re gonna cut out parts whole you should leave tabs. It minimizes chatter edge, broken tools, and it’s just a bit safer. Otherwise good job 👍🏻
Bro...this music is dope...do that on every video n I'll watch em all.
People keep saying to leave tabs, then fix it manually, which works well enough. What we do in our shop for parts that get cut all the way through is we make a surface plate with bolt holes and locator pin holes. You can then clamp the stock to the surface plate, and cut your through holes all the way through. Then you can make a second operation to finish the cutout after you secure your part down to the plate with a few bolts or clamps (depending on what you figure your best option is). If you were going to do high production, I'd recommend figuring out how to secure your parts in this way, as it will ultimately save you time, effort, and resources, as well as being highly repeatable.
But if you're just making three or so parts, it may just be quicker and cheaper to use tabs and clean everything up by hand. After all, there's a million ways to machine the same shapes, and most of them are technically the correct method. It just depends what works best for you and your application.
Nice video. I go by sound of the cutting on how it's doing. So music takes away from that. Thanks
i would use some double side tape and put an mdf piece under the aluminium so the pieces wont vibrate at the end of the contour
Good Idea and a nice Job!
Thank you Sir!
:)) No "Sir" - i'm only a little Human :))
Great job Thanks a lot !
Looking slick MB. Signed. MB
Jajaj genial !.Salud ! con la bebida.
Make a fixture plate. , Install a holding screw, also add tape.
Drills, Mount, profile. Cut costs in processing.
hey mbcreates..how have the cheap chinese ebay end mills performed in aluminium?
use "TABS" setting in CAM so the finished pieces do not fall out of the workpiece when cut. Will leave a few tabs to be cut in final op.
hi good job can i have information about the mahine espesifications thank u
Hello, thanks for your video. Does your machine have any improvements?, which model is it? Thancks.
what do you do with the offcuts? do you melt the aluminium down in to a ingot?
Hey Bud,
do you want to share mach 3 set up please.
Thanks
What spindle speed do you use for aluminum?
Nice.
Yo dude how do you probe using the controller box that comes with it?
What grade of aluminum are you using here? I'm guessing 6061, since from what I've researched it sounds the easiest to machine while having other great properties.
Hi what software you used to program this machining
Good
How long is to mill that ?
Which power ? 1500w ?
Thank you
At least this time the head didn't shake as if it could detach at any time, I'm a bit more convinced that it can cut into alu. Adjust the CAM to leave small tabs that keep the piece attached. That way there's less need for file in the end. Always ensure the blank is leveled well so you don't get skew pieces and/or crash the drill into the piece and break it. Plus, get one of these if you don't already have one en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calipers#/media/File:Vernier_caliper.svg and learn to use it so you see how much difference there is between the model and the part.
I like your cnc
Thanks
nice, I have the same vice on the 6040.. I keep my machinist vice on my real mill .What ive been doing for cutouts like these is going down to the last 1mm of the material.. then flipping the part and doing a facing operation to remove the pieces.. this way the backside gets cleaned up and faced off
That exactly what I thought of today! What endmills do you use for cutting Aluminium on your 6040?
any of the 1/4 inch 2 flutes are great , and will remove material at any speed.. I like to run 1200 mm/min but only .4mm depth ,.. the 1/8 th inch bits all pretty much suck.. I did buy a fancy 3 flute 1/8th end mill and it cut great, but has to run soo slow its insane and the depth of cut is limited. Now im really doing all the hog work with the 1/4 , then ONLY doing finishing and cleanup passes with the 1/8... so in fusion I leave .5mm on the model for the pocketing routine , then cleanup with the 1/8 in a countour
Sounds good. Do you still have the original chinese controller for your cnc? What accuracy do you get when running 1200 mm/min? Not lossing steps?
ive only had the machine a month.. SO yea.. getting very good accuracy as long as the depth of cut is low.. ( .4 ) and then do a finishing pass after /./. So I always leave .5mm on the first processs and 0.0 on the second.. I measured my work and got 1.005 on a 1 inch part.. which is pretty good.not perfect.
a huge improvement was throwing some water on the part while its cutting , every 2 minutes .. Im gonna add flood coolant to the machine. It not only cools the parts , but cools the end mill and stops all chip build up I had when I first got the machine..Since the end mill and chips can no longer get into the temperature range to melt the aluminum
Were did you buy the machine
Hello,can you tell me please the motor tunning settings in MACH3? Thank you
Hi what software do you use?
What app your using to format ur stl file
Does this 3040 have lead screws or ball?
It is good for aluminium cutting.Which CNC router 4060 did you buy? Is it includes its controller and software! Could you give more information about its hardware controller and software. Thank you!
That’s a 6040
hellow im from mexico do you sell this product?
Hein-y...a good vice.
how did you get it to work with a laptop? I heard it is only compatible with Xp machines. Did you follow any kind of tutorial? Thanks for the great video
If he has the USB version there shouldn't be any issues, not sure about the parallel port model.
3/4/5 / 6mm Shank 4 Flute Tungsten End Mill HRC 55 Solid Carbide Milling Cutter CNC Router Bit TiCN Coated
yes! its A LU MI NI UM!
Buenas noches desde Venezuela saludos cordiales cuánto es el precio de ese CNC
Where Can I get this CNC router machine?
This is a drilling vise. You run the risk of ripping the workpiece out of it if you use it for milling, unless you're milling extremely gently. For your own safety and to protect your equipment, please consider a milling vise. They are heavier and more expensive but really worth it.
Any specific models you think would be good for my CNC? Most milling vices I saw are too high for the limited Z height of my machine.
@@MBcreates yes they are all like that, because they contain a mechanism that pulls your workpiece downwards (that's what makes them safe). If your Z clearance is limited you may not have a choice. The ones I use are about 10 cm tall.
MBcreates just move spindle Motor height from housing when your need space, as use 4 axis chuck
Dont worry mate just send it in that vice!
@@MBcreates The solution to your problem with having a low vice is already out there. In fact you can machine it using your cnc router. It is known as a two piece vice.
This Old Tony made a set for his milling machine: th-cam.com/video/hvdu-qnwCf8/w-d-xo.html
The two part vice will allow you to use most of your router's x and y travel provided the vice pieces are wide enough to prevent deflection.
Jeremy Schmidt has made a variant of the design for his cnc router: th-cam.com/video/TSTThLM8s8o/w-d-xo.html (10:56 is the time stamp of that video you are looking for)
I would do a combination of This Old Tony's design and Jeremy's design.
why not bevel it with the cnc?
Please, the price of the machine.
Awsome work mann what cad,cam system do u use
Thanks! I use Fusion 360.
Ok I’m trying to get a 6040 but never really used any cnc software . But the fusion will get it done tho huh thanks a lot
Yes, Fusion is great for learning CAM. Check out NYC CNC on TH-cam, for some great tutorials.
No wing nuts,use hex nuts. Shorten up all the long threaded rods. For starters.
Does fusion 360 {DNC} the gcode to the machine? Or is there a different program you use? What program was running on top of the controller? Thanks!
I use mach3
@@MBcreates thanks...was it easy setting up the windows drivers? Can I use win 10 or just 7? I'm ordering almost the same machine on ebay...lmk
What post processor did you use in fusion360 and did you have to make any changes to it?
Hi max,
I use the: CNC Router Parts (Mach3Mill) / cncrouterparts
It generates a .tap file. I never had to make any changes.
@@MBcreates is it a built in post? Mine sends it home and it alarms out on me.
Sorry Max this is not my subject of expertise. I learned the post process from this video and had never had any problems th-cam.com/video/6h4e8E0pCNY/w-d-xo.html good luck!
Please can you tell me which bit do you used?
Double Flute Spiral End Mill Set :bit.ly/2LAf2Zf
Hi. Can you share the type of machine you use in this video? I'm want to buy a cnc on aliexpress do you recommend? Thank you.
CNC 6040 1500 watt spindle
@@MBcreates from aliexpress? Or it doesnt matter? I mean what are the important thing to look for ?
Thank you for your response i really appreciate it.
What was the feed rate
Question, do you think it would help to glue or double sticky tape a piece of wood to the underside to keep the parts from vibrating on the last run?? Good job, keep up the good work.
Yes, see the top comments. It worked out here but generally tabs (small bridges across the bottom of the cut slot) are the way to go. Flip over and mill from the other side for the last 0.1mm or so to remove the tabs, alternatively cut it off manually.
Tape would probably be better than nothing. But then again I'm not sure since it can still move a bit but doesn't fly off. So maybe if the tool still catches it, the consequences can be even worse since the piece can't easily move away?
how many noise dB?
What computer program you are using for?
Fusion 360
Долго ждал что бы понять , что за деталь?! ....я думал это от сложного механизма ......как я ошибался!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Have you had problems with losing steps? I have the same machine and the z and x axes lose steps at slow speeds. Hence always lose steps with helix and ramp moves.
Hi Ben,
Yes I did. But in my case it happened at high speeds. Slowing the rapids and max feedrate to 1000 mm/min helped with that. I made a video about it some time ago: th-cam.com/video/rr42kPzL7js/w-d-xo.html
I had this issue also with helical moves. I also couldn’t jog in less than 0.1mm increments. Turned out I had the step & dir low active inverted in the motor output config in Mach 3.
@@NobbyBinks I'll try that out. I've tried a lot of things, but not that yet. I'm wondering if I've got a ground loop. Because I grounded everything. Or or it could be EM noise, crappy drives, wires, connectors, power supply... I'm almost about to change it to closed loop steppers.
I replaced all my stepper and spindle cables with proper shielded cabled and grounded the ends. Still had the same missing step issue on certain fine movements. In my case it was a configuration setting in mach3.
I have the same control unit as OP and the stepper drivers are all discrete units, much better than some of the other control boxes out there. When the unit is sorted it cuts well and is pretty accurate.
@@NobbyBinks Thanks heaps! I just changed the active low setting off and it's working at slow speeds! Z axis is occasionally playing up. I think the cables need some strain relief.
Can you make a logo ?
What software are you using?
Fusion 360
nice, what is your feed rate and spindle rpm?
600 mm/min and 11.000 rpm
i m running 330/mm 6000rpm 2 flute 3mm carbide end mill and i get stuff building on the edge for my cuts on the work piece. is my feed rate too low?
the stuff building up disappeared when i decrease the steps from 0.5 to 0.2 mm, what do you suggest I change if i want to go back to 0.5 or 1mm steps?
Do you calculate your feeds and speeds ?
th-cam.com/video/SZ4QL64ZSyQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/ip2jm_6aUyk/w-d-xo.html
take a look at these two videos.
Sounds like dutch type of English language :p
What mill do u use?
⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Hey
Instead of WD40, use es-12 emulgol
+ water...
😁😁
WD40 works great for aluminum 😀
what the program name? that u use
fusion360
Yes i understand but to say climb cut a slot in one program one pass is incorrect since parts will be climb cut and other parts conventional cut....depending on which sirection machine is moving during program....thats why there is no such thing as climb cutting a profile on a cnc...it will be
Note to speed up parts process rock tumbler and ceramic cones and mineral oil soften up edges
Totally dangerous there guy and looks like your parallels went for a walk. Is this a how not to vid?
For how much money can I buy one like that?.
www.alibaba.com/product-detail/The-Factory-CM-L-1325-CNC_60818807946.html?spm=a2747.manage.list.152.537571d2BmrwQM
Is it a 1.5 kwatt spindel ?
Yes
@@MBcreates cool thanks, ? There is a blank or hollow 6040 cnc on ebay 2.2kw is the one you show here better for alu? Think more steady..
One thing I would avoid is hollow frames. You need every bit of rigidity, especially for milling aluminum.
@@MBcreates thanks for the answer:) then i Know wich to buy 👍
Ik denk dat je een nederlander bent
3mm not 6mm ? looks more than 3.
What parameters do you use for 6mm?
It's 1/8 inch or 3.175 mm. It looks bigger because the wide angle lens on my camera. It's best to calculate your own parameters, here is a good video on the subject : goo.gl/9pU1sv
Hie.. Can you make brass logo for me...
Just like branding iron
I don't take on projects. Sorry
Good video But i hated ther music. It would be nice to hear the cutter.
You can towards the end, it doesn't sound good. Around 5mins in
cutting sparry name
WD 40 😂
Y'know those are 99 cents at the gas station, right ? 👍
😂😂😂😂
Anyone else just wanna blow at their screen to blow away the debris or is it just me?
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.
The vice doesn't look great for milling/routing. I'd invest in a better one if I were you.
That vise is not a good one. Nothing will be square on that.
Which one would you recommend?
Tests ours tools. Visit www.aisoriano.com
If u mill a rectangle on a cnc 50% of it would be climb and 50% would be conventional....
sorry but that looks terrible might as well use a dremel.
This should be posted on cringe... Why does everyone on TH-cam use wd40 like this! It's a anti rust solvent that helps rusted parts move, not a lubricant! If they all just used the correct cutting oiled they would even save money and have nicer looking cut parts
Why did you want to ruin your video with that garbage in a green bottle? Why not use a real brand?