ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I’ll test six low budget end mills for milling aluminium on a CNC router.
Affiliate links to the end mills:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
(Tool 1 3:00 Tool 2 7:17 Tool 3 11:50 Tool 4 12:48 Tool 5 14:40 Tool 6 15:36)
Blogpost, tool library and fusion files: bit.ly/2BzwQ4B
After many hours of doing tests with cutting aluminium on my CNC router I reached a high enough skill level that that almost all of my operations succeed. Getting to this point has resulted in many broken end mills. Lately I am investing in high quality tooling to get even better performance when milling aluminium on my CNC 6040 router. The low budget tools that I used for all the testing where in the $0,50 to $5 dollar price range. The high quality tools that I recently added to my collection cost $35 or more. I have changed my work approach to prevent these expensive tools from breaking.
The main cause of tool damage is a mistake in the g-code. Testing new CAM settings, materials or workholding are still activities with a high chance of a mistake.The first part of my new work approach is that I only use the expensive tools on operations that I've tested with the low budget tools. The second change is the implementation of the fusion 360 CAM templates. With these templates it’s possible to save CAM operations that have work well. When starting on a new workpiece you can just regreate the operation on the new workpiece. With the use of the templates the chance of making a mistake is very small.
In this first end mill test video I selected six tools that were super cheap but still good enough to cut 6060 Aluminum on my CNC 6040 router. In future video’s I would like to test more end mills both in the low budget category (below $5) and the medium to high priced tooling.
Do you have suggestion on end mills I should test in my next video? Please leave a comment in the comment section below.
Affiliate links to the end mills:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
music credits:
first track:
50 $tants (Instrumental Hip-Hop Beat) by Clapp&theBassPhysician / clapandthebass. .
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
creativecommons....
second track:
Buddha by Kontekst / kontekstmusic
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
creativecommons....
third track:
50 $tants (Instrumental Hip-Hop Beat) by Clapp&theBassPhysician / clapandthebass. .
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
fourth track:
Life Is by Cosimo Fogg (201) / cosimo-fogg
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
creativecommons...
fifth track:
Hold On by Joakim Karud / joakimkarud
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported- CC BY-SA 3.0
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sixth track:
Chill Soul Rap Instrumental by Nkato / nkato
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
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seventh track:
Title: Parasail
Artist: Silent Partner
Links to the end mills:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
9:50 if the sound doesn't give you a hint where the optimal setting is, then watch on the chipsize/form.At 8:50 looks good to me. Whats your reason to switch to 40$ tools? i focus more on the midleground performance/money. These Tialin-tools are like that (nr.4 on your list)
Did you already tested Wolfram carbide burrs, you can easily work on hard steel with handtools, I was suprised myself. Maybe it works on CNC too.
(www.ebay.com/itm/Bits-Engraving-Cutting-PCB-Machine-Carbide-Edge-Cutter-Milling-Cutter-End-Mill/133142897588?hash=item1effef63b4:m:m0pQHRDDtlgH2r-t15TJEXw
www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-1-8-0-8-3-17mm-PCB-Engraving-Cutter-Rotary-CNC-End-Mill-Drill-Bit-Set/372683097189?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57922%26meid%3D58e33273a52e49b68f9e29050985e6f7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D153512212228%26itm%3D372683097189%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Which tool was best?
Give 1
Worked as CNC programmer operator, both milling and lathe, done my apprenticeship as engineering Toolmaker for a decade and half, I don't do it anymore, definitely won't work for a boss ever again, but I would'nt mind getting a little machine like that one for myself, I can't imagine it being highly accurate, but it seams to do alright for its size. Line left for finishing. Ti-Ni coated hss for aluminium. I don't need to test it, I know it works. For a machine that is Not ridgid, I have found line right can be helpful when roughing out to prevent the tools from digging in. Also The type of flood or mist coolant, cutting fluid you use is critical to achieve best finish, although you can cut dry, but it is more likely to fur up.
I've been doing hobby CNCing for about 15 years now and recently went back to the basics. I experimented with end mills, feeds & speeds, etc.
But the one thing that I found that you will give you the biggest improvement on your finish is clearing out those chips. I use compressed air routed through LocLine flex tubing with a very fine nozzle. Just a few pounds of air pressure is all you need. Yes, coolant / lubricant and the right end mill are important but unless you get those chips out of there, they will just be ground between the cutter and the work piece.
One further step in that regard is when doing the initial cut, set your software to leave a finishing allowance - I leave about .030". Before you make your final cut to remove that finishing allowance, get every last chip out.
Very helpful. Thanks for posting such an in-depth review. I have had great luck with some of the cheaper end mills I've used, and horrible results with some more expensive options. Finding the balance between quality tools and proper feeds and speeds is a constant challenge. Appreciate your efforts!
Get rid of particle board, use a solid steel or aluminum sacrificial plate. To reduce vibration. Get a mist/air sprayer. Check out a book on feeds and speeds
@@MainCharacterDotX how?
End mills are made for steel
Great video! Thanks for making everything nice and clear. I built an MPCNC last year and have got wood figured out and now I'm planning to move into milling aluminum. Subscribed!
Dear Sir
There is a problem in your tool route
Notice:
1. Go along ======>
2. Go backward
I have zero experience with CNC routing of any kind. However i have a decent amount with a table router... When routing aluminum, to get the smoothest finish i found slowing down the rpm of the router yields the best results
I noticed some of the recommended tools are altin coated. Which is a huge no no - reason being is the aluminum part of the Altin coating, allows aluminum to weld to the coating , which decreases edge sharpness. Try zirconia coating and ticn
Great video, congratulations. To help. Usually Climb Milling has better finish for aluminum. Test. :)
Thanks - that's a really useful video and has saved me a lot of time, materials and broken bits.
I love your videos and can relate to what you do, wish you could to a Cam setup tutorial :)
Really great video. Very helpful to me, learned a lot. Love how you documented everything do well. Thank you.
you are probably breaking a lot of endmills due to chip build up and lack of flood coolant. aluminum builds up as a gummy residue on the cutter. reduce this and increase tool life with constant coolant. Also choke up on the tool length to give more stability on the tool. If you can get a tool with a thicker shank not just a 1/8". That spindle looks like it can handle a larger tool holder so give it that and get your tool tip to be just the size you need. By increasing the rigidity in your tool and holding you will be able to get more aggressive cuts and faster times.
Thanks for the indepth video. I visited your website and also found the information indepth and inciteful.
Thanks, That’s is great to hear!
you could generate bridges to support the component and avoiding the blade to hide on the edges
Go against the spindle rotation create a better bite on material, try clockwise on OD and counterclockwise on ID.
Ever consider vacuuming your chips to prevent weld up and using a lubricating mist to prevent heat buildup?
Willy Wonka he uses mist cooling but no vacuuming
I notice your cutting with your offset to the right and in a conventional milling direction
You will get better results going in the opposite direction with offset to the left it’s what is know as climb milling
Hope this info helps
And then there's me with a fox alien masuter pro with the 300w spindle, unable to mill a straight line in 1mm thick aluminum. This is still fun.
I've found the same thing on my 6040. A larger tool ( 6-6.5mm ) requires more rigidity than my router has. I get better results from 3-4mm tools in aluminum. My 6040 is crazy strong in X and comically floppy in Y. I try to arrange my heavy cuts to be along X where possible. Even cutting wood along Y is chattery. I'm thinking that I need to install larger guide rods in the gantry to get a more rigid Y axis.
For aluminum, I always keep a good air blast on the tool, and a little kerosene or WD40 dabbed on with a brush. I seem to get way better wall finish with climb milling over conventional.
My workhorse aluminum bit is a kyocera 1/8th inch carbide 2 flute from ebay. They have a white collar. They're short though, but very stout and sharp. When I need some depth, I have some 1/8th inch cobra carbide bits that are long. They cut very nicely but break easily. I have some very cheap ebay 3mm 3 flute HSS bits that work ok, but go dull faster than they should.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for your sharing the tools you use. I will certainly check them out. The difference in X and Y axis strength is something I experience too.
I’ve noticed that many CNC 6040 users are having a different opinion about what the X and Y axis is. For me the longest side of the machine (the 60cm travel) is the Y-axis, and shortest side (the 40cm travel) the X-axis. Do you agree of do you have them the labeled opposite way? I’ve searched for info on this subject but couldn't find anything useful.
@@MBcreates Hi, yes, I concur with you. Y is the long axis, while X is across. I guess it wouldn't really matter, unless you were sharing CAM files, and the parts you were making were sized such they would only fit one way. I also generally set my origin to the center of the part, and many of the parts I make are square or circular, so most of the time, X and Y don't matter to me, unless I have to cut a slot in aluminum. Then I have to be conscious of the axis or I'll certainly get horrible surface finish at best or snap a bit at worst. Love your content, thanks representing the 6040 community.
Yeah it’s only annoying when talking talking to other people, you never know for sure if your talking about the same axis. Maybe we as community have to set a standard XD
Jeff Stewart:
Try replacing the whacky guide rods with a heavy duty extrusion aluminium profile and two linear rails on it. Sure, a lot of parts has to be modified in order to make everything fit.
But the people who had done it, are happy they did.
i.warosu.org/data/diy/img/0006/70/1405832153529.png
There are nuts and bolts available to fasten linear rails on them.
@@Unix_Based Hi, thanks for the suggestion. I will likely just take it all apart, figure out the biggest rod I can fit, and mod the gantry to fit them. It looks like the current guide rods are about 12mm or half inch. Going to 16mm or 5/8 in. would be a doubling in stiffness. I'll use hardened, ground drill rod, and machine the guide bushings from oilite or SAE660 bronze. I have a lathe and mill, so this work would be easy for me. Just have to find a time when I don't have a month of project backlog to do.
I got a 3d printer i barely use, might as well buy one of these too.
Your voice is sooooo soothing! You should make some guided meditation.... peace
Hi
thank you for this helpful video and site
could you please give me the ref or link for the machine? I was not able to recognize te brand in the video.
Important for me because I mostly want to mill aluminium.
regards Servane
Thanks for this. Your blog in the description is a broken link.
To help with the rigidity issue, I would recommend getting rid of that plywood / particle board table and replace it with a good, thick plate of steel.
th-cam.com/video/zdllMYgsAkg/w-d-xo.html
Ah I see that you've already installed the plate. What was the reason for the wood, rather than just drill and tap all of the fixture holes right into the steel plate?
Like others are saying, you should be climb milling instead of conventional milling.
Owned 6040 for 4 years.. Replace your stepper motor couplers for rigid ones.. Depending on what grade of aluminium your cutting use single flute solid carbide or 2 flute high helix.. I Cut aluminium on it everyday.. I use europa end Mills. Flex shaft couplings are no good on this machine.. Also add an hdpe spoil board really helps with vibration and increasing rigidity without breaking the bank to much.. Hope that helps you out
Thanks Kieran! Do you have link to the couplers you used or can you share the brand/type name?
@@MBcreates m.ebay.co.uk/itm/8x8mm-Solid-Coupler-ideal-3D-printer-Reprap-CNC-Rigid-Coupling-8mm-8mm-/191974296409?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574631662%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338243305%26customid%3D3cb5a6624bb4664165579daf858b3e10%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252F8x8mm-Solid-Coupler-ideal-3D-printer-Reprap-CNC-Rigid-Coupling-8mm-8mm-%252F191974296409%253Fvar%253D%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1862515439367%26rvr_ts%3Dfe1a36a41680acc7e9c7b96dffeac83c&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true depends on your size..search on ebay my friend.. But these are what I bought.. By the way this increases rigidity on the y axis considerably.. Anyway I noticed you already changed the base so get those couplers and you should see the difference.
Actually the ones I bought were SS but these are aluminium doh
Thanks Kieran !
great video
A 3 flute vari-mill would also greatly help out your rigidity issue by breaking up the harmonics. Might be able to cut conventional with a vari then.
Thanks Tom, any specific types/brand you would recommend?
Harvey Tool, YG-1, Widia, many others, or even custom endmill for $20-40 per tool. An endmill with a higher helix angle around 45°~55° might also help reduce side-cutting deflection by redirecting the cutting forces.
Thanks!
Great video, as always thanks. You do "Play chicken" with those mounting screws! I shut my eyes every time... not good for an old boy's heart. :o)
Super helpful video. You have my subs...looking forward to seeing more videos from you!
good video. I'm thinking of buying one of these routers.
Go for it!
Nice video, Very surprised no O flutes in this lineup to rough though. ( mitigates the need for cutting fluid even though it's always better) and a straight 1/8" 2 flute for finishing
Not sure if it was covered in a previous video but was the air system already there or did you install it? Also thanks for all the info it really helps.
Your welcome! The air system is self installed.
Hi,
Happy New Year!
You steel working whit this feeds and speeds?
Try 2 mm Stepdown and 1/2 tool diameter Stepover and 0.025 mm per flute for cut and 5 mm SD, 0.1 mm stepover 0.015 mm per flute and max revs for finishes.
By going so small on Stepdown the tool is working hard to start cutting the chip, so is skipping one cut just rubbing and next one bite too much wich results in cutter towable.
FANTASTIC
great videos. I bought a 6040Z and was very disappointed. I could not do anything in aluminum. I found everything very complex, from drawing to machining. I put the sale and so far I have not found a buyer. I preferred going to Laser that will suit me better. I see that I was using the wrong bits. although my greatest need is to make markings and not cuts. What bit to do engrave do you recommend? Congrats on the videos
Can you make a list/kit/must have cnc kit? Like the kit having Vbits, endmills, bullnoses and chamfer tools? The kit being tailored to beginners, the right compromise between price and quality for hobbiests starting out with cnc
Hi, thanks for video, i have a question, where you buy cnc 6040 please
Super video please make a video on tutorial that how to make parts 3d design for cnc
1:05 what bit? Also, what feeds and speeds?
thank you very much here is only that I see your answer. I am new to this field but I would like to be able to engrave on aluminum later. is it possible to change the engine to put a more powerful one to work with aluminum?
Hey Bud,
do you want to share Mach 3 set up. Bdw all your videos very educative.
Thanks
U need alcogol compressed air mist. Best result with it.
try not to use the cutter less than 4 mm for adaptive milling and if you have to take the cutters no longer than the workpiece
Hold on, why are you conventional cutting in aluminum?
If you keep your chip load at around .002 per tooth, and climb cut with .25% radial and full flute length, you’d get a freer cutting toolpath without re-cutting chips. This would minimize chatter, thin the chip and remove heat from the tool by allowing the chips to fly from the endmill instead of sticking to it and causing excess friction. This is especially important with dynamic toolpaths on gummy material like aluminum, and doubly so without flood coolant. Contact me if you need recommendations, I have years in the trade as a machinist, and I can speed up your toolpaths and projects by at least double, while cutting tool breakage.
change to climb milling my friend.
have you ever tried it?
Is the 6040 a good CNC? What size of pieces can you mill? And lastly, have you used as a 5 axis setup?
The reason it doesn’t like climb milling is because the machine is not stable enough to fight the “pulling” force of the tool. This happens in old manual machines that have a lot of backlash . The tool Tends to pull the machine. Not much you can do except see if there is some way to stiffen up the linear guides and the drives
That was done mostly in climb milling correct? Conventional would have been much better no>?
Climb milling is preferred in modern machining. Conventional milling was the norm because the machines were the limiting factor. The tolerances in the linear guides and feed screws would let the tool pull the job toward itself. This breaks the tools. So, in short no climb milling is preferred. The way the cutter loads up during the cut, the chip gets relieved and helps to reduce the pressure on the cutting edge.
@@ronhellberg7394 Roger That, Im currently building a CNC for m myself, 400mmx400mm. For now Im going to be using a Dewalt w660 as my "spindle". I recently bought some 18mm Round with the stainless base along them linear rails.
Do you think I will have issues and should go with flat style? Id rather not as I paid a bit for them and they have the nicer adjustable pillow blocks. Or am I truly wasting my time and just go with flat HGH15 etc?
@MadMackz the guides are fine. The problem is more related to the feed system.I think you will probably be using a cog belt? This is where the problem comes from the best feed system to use is a ball screw that will eliminate backlash
@@ronhellberg7394 Nope definitly using ball screws, damn belt isnt even ridgid enough in my laser let alone a cutting operation . My main issue now I just finding decent priced aluminum and steel in northern BC. Justin-flation has really done a number on our prices.
I'm just starting out, was looking to but this CNC router. Can you provide a link please? It will be use for aluminium primarily, which is why I'm interested in your machine and setup. Thank you for your time.
Delicious!!
Any reason you're conventional milling instead of climb milling? This alone would help surface finish a lot.
I’m struggling with the rigidity of the machine when doing climb cuts.
Climb milling is normally a bad idea on a small machine like this due to lack of rigidity.
If spindle runs clockwise, always climb mill for finish.
Hi. Your machine has too much flex in it thats why your tool is pushing away so much. Also, climb cutting works much better = less tool load. Try to stiffen the spindle holder and gantry, then change the machines bed round bars to linear rails. One other good tip, try to minimise your cutting tool overhang also.
Thanks for the tips!
Great video please can you test Aliexpress cheap 6mm double flute end mill on aluminum
Great video !!! Did you already make the video with high end tools?
0:57 I'd love to know how that worked out :)
Hi Thanks a lot for the nice series of video. Thank to you, i bought the same setup and start aluminium few days ago. But i have a strange issue, i have a kind of step effect that is more and more the deeper it mills. I choose a really small layer deep (0.2mm) to avoid too much effort and go slowly into the material but it has no effect. I did the same part into mdf but i have not this issue. It is like the steper mottor loose precision with the time or with a more harder material. Do you have an idea may be ? Again thanks a lot for your job !
Excellent mind blowing video keep it up many love from Pakistan
Lowers and solvent trap parts :)
Can this machine cut sheet brass 2mm? Looks really cool your videos are really good
You should always climb cut. You will get much better finishes with a deflection pass.
In theory you’re right. Climb is preferential, but I’m struggling with the rigidity of the machine when doing climb cuts.
I’ve only tested the deflection pass while conventional cutting. I will give the climb deflection pass a try!
really apperciate the effort to put these videos. Question if I may, Do you have any experience with the Stepcraft ? would you recommend for a beginner ? . thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you liked them. I don’t have any experience with stepcraft, so I can’t give you any advice.
@@MBcreates thanks
Thank you!
Useful, thankyou.
Nice video. Do you have any expierience with aluminium molding? Does it work on a 3 axis cnc? I mean due to the draft angles. I gues here it will have steps or i am wrong?
Super Videos!! Mach bitte weiter so!
Ach ja und pass auf das dein Boden nicht zerkrazt.😉
What bodem?
MBcreates oh, parquet floor
XD
Hi, Nice video, thanks for shearing!. CAn you tell how did you connect the limit switches cables to the CNC controller? thanks
Next time could you try to make your voice a little louder and the sounds of the tools a little more quiet? I find myself having to adjust the volume every few clips. Other than that, this video is very useful
will do
Great work, I have the smaller Machine which has unsupported rails on all axis, think I need to upgrade to a more sturdy machine I tried milling aluminium and the vibrations became unbearable
Thanks Samantha, Do you still have the standard machine bed? The loudest noises/vibrations with my machine were caused by the machine bed. When I upgraded mine these where all gone. th-cam.com/video/zdllMYgsAkg/w-d-xo.html
Even with a big piece of wood on your machine bed you get a big improvement. th-cam.com/video/vWQiBSp0yXU/w-d-xo.html
Hello there I want to make some little parts in 3 dimensions max. Size is 10mm in STAINLESS Steel & Aluminium which CNC would you suggest
What's the make of your CNC? I ask because we have one at work very like it. I'm trying to find a controller board for it. Thanks a lot.
Super vid. Just ordered my first cnc. Stepcraft 300. You think aluminium will cut ok with this cnc router
Cool! I don't have experience with Stepcraft so I coudn't tell you ;)
Isn’t flood coolant better for this kind of milling operation?
What is the thickest aluminum you have cut I need to cut 2” or 50.8mm do you think this cnc would be good ?
Great video. Thanks! Where do you get your aluminum?
hey what spindle are you using here? Looks larger than most for 6040. 2.2KW perhaps? Can you accommodate a 1/2" shaft bit?
Hi, new subscriber here. Can you try milling iron and other materials? I also wonder what mods you can do to mill harder materials.
When are you posting again? Can't wait :)
Any topic suggestions?
@@MBcreates More aluminium projects. I'm gonna start with mine soon. Goal is to make aluminium molds for injecting soft plastic fishing lures. But any mold vid would be great :)
Two part molds to be more exact. They have to match to a 1000th of a mm. There's a challenge for you :)
Could I upgrade this machine for 316L STAINLESS STEEL?
What's the pink spray you're using? And the clear spray later in the video.
Why are you conventional-milling?
I noticed that too...might be why all the chatter.
You should never conven cut, most you tubers do it and it's bad on end mills in corners as it forces it to dig in deeper.
You dont have much of a choice on a flimsy machine. These things are really for routing and engraving wood/plastic.
Anyone got any recommendations for being new to cnc routers. I want to be able to mill out my own ar15 lowers is that tangible for a beginner or should I work up to it? Thanks.
Any reason you're milling conventional versus climb?
Yes, Because of the unsupported X and Y rails the machine isn’t really sturdy. The climb cut results in a really shaky and unstable cut. The conventional strategy performance much better.
Hi! I'm Liz. I love your videos. I just bought this cnc and I would like if you could tell me what lubricant do you throw? and also how do you put water? Thank you!!!
Hi Liz, Congrats on buying your machine! The red stuff is cutting oil and the other spray is WD40. It works but I don’t recommend anyone using it because of the health risks. easpacilty the WD40 gives me a slight headache if I use it to much. I’m searching for better and healthier alternatives I got the tip that sunflower oil works great for aluminum so I’m going to test this soon.
Nice video again. Did you already test the sunflower oil. I'm very interested
Hello I see you are using a similar CNC machine that I have. I'm struggling to get my machine to cut or even recognize any G-code I load. I understand your using fusion 360 as your CAM software choice. Do you use MACH3 as your controller interface. What software do you use for design. I added limit switches to my machine and an auto tool zeroing tool. However my machine did not come with any documents or configuration files. any help would be appreciated. I am subscribed to your channel.
What kind of bits do you use for doing really fine details like a challenge coin etc
Climb Milling
Thank you for this video, I have the same machine as you, when I use your settings, when the fall of the End Mills in the matter, I broke every time ... Do you know why? Thank you
That’s hard to tell. Can you share a video of your attempts? Important is to use a helical path when you go engage the material in the z direction. This the most risk full part of most cuts because in general end mills don’t like cutting in the z direction that much (that why why we use drill bits). You have to go really slow on this part of the operation. I keep 40-50 percent of the normal feed rate as rule of thumb. You can see it in the video on 4:52
Hello is this CNC stock or modded? would it be similar to a 3040 with a 800w motor? thanks
my router has minimum 6000 and max 24000 rpm. can I use it for aluminum?
What tool do you use to smooth an aluminum surface for let's say 1mm?
Hi there, i ma just in the process of purchasing one of these off ebay and still weary of software issues: I know that they run on windows 7 or xp and only on the 32 bit version; i am also aware that the sofware that comes with the machine is a demo version and i will need to keep away from updates to avoid casuing future issues or worst. What I would like to know is whether this pirated software can read files made witrh a different design programme like auotcad, solidworks or techsoft v3, a DFX file for example. I hope you can help.
Welke Machine gebruik je? Ik zoek een betaalbare CNC machine.
Just a little advice from a guy who’s been a cnc machinist for over 30 years and has cut allot of different material.
First of all when your cutting on a cnc mill you should always climb cut. That way the chips get pulled through the end mill flutes and flushed away with air/coolant. When your cutting conventional as in your video, your pushing the chips forward, right into the path of your tool, which means your taking those same chips you just cut and pulling them into your cutter again. That’s makes for a terrible finish, it fills your cutter and it breaks end mills.
Also your spindle setup is not rigid enough! I can hear the chatter of the end I’ll against the material. Part of the problem with breaking end mills is the harmonics from chatter. If you resolve that, you’ll get longer tool life and better finishes.
Great video! What spindle did you end up using on your machine?
From what I've learned in the last year, this looks like a 3kW, I think?
how do you know when to spray lubricant??
Bought one of these, still can't get it to work. The axes all work ok but getting the spindle to turn correctly is a no go, not much help from the seller. I am toying with the idea of getting a 2.2kw spindle with a huah Yand inverter.
Judging by the resunk from the cutter, your ball screw has an axial runout (
What type of CNC machine you are using