Thanks Matt for another excellent video. This all helps to educate and counter the anti-EV nonsense out there about batteries. Our 2019 e-Niro (64 kWh useable) is now at 95,000 km here in France and I asked for a battery health check at the 90K service. All 294 cells are reaching their V-nominal but of course that is not the V-max of the cells, the difference between the voltage levels being the 3.5 kWh buffer. I posted a video on my channel back in the summer where I try to make the point that 'battery degradation' and 'range loss' are not the same thing. At nearly 5 years old there must have been some battery degradation on the e-Niro but I have seen no perceptible loss of range, which is all that matters to the owner.
Really? Do a test on a 7 to say 12 year old car and lets see. PS. Its the same battery in your phone (Lithium) and we all know how that goes after 7/10 years. Pretty sure you wouldn't buy a 9+ year old car - certain actually... Plenty of horror stories on out of warranty (10 yrs) electric cars
Hyundai is kinda cheating in stating a SOH of 100% and no apparent loss of range. But the truth is that they quietly move capacity from the buffer to the usable capacity to compensate for degradation.
@@kiae-nirodiariesencore4270 You need education if you believe the chemistry in a lithium-ion battery differs between a phone, a laptop, a tablet, or a car. Reproducible scientific fact doesn't care about propaganda, it just is.
Hey Matt thank you for continuously posting videos on this great EV because of your videos me and the wife are firm that this will be our next car once we go full electric. Great and informative information each video. Looking forward to the next
Great cars. It’s a shame that Hyundai hasn’t brought out a new version and went down the massive crossover SUV and saloon route instead. I’m still hoping they will bring out an efficient C-segment EV hatchback (i.e. a new version of the original Ioniq) eventually, rather than more crossovers and saloons.
Thank you for a wonderful helpful video. I have all my work done by the Renault agent from whom I took the lease on my Renault Zoe. My next vehicle will be a Vauxhall Combo Life Electric with the Wheelhome Vikenze III-e conversion.
Matt I agree with your point that a true SOH of a car is the miles one get from the car. My MG Zs EV after 3yrs is around 93% according to car scanner but my range hasn't changed a bit. With Eco mode on 90km I get almost 300km with A/c off and 264km on motorway which is what MG claim. So yeah.
Yes they are gems on the used market. What Hyundia Motor Group have learned from the Ioniq and first gen e-Niro will serve them well as they bring out smaller cars on the EV only platform. Tesla and HMG seem to be ahead of other OEMS when it comes to EV efficiency.
This worries me. These cars fit my usage model like a charm and it's right at the top of my list but I won't be able to commit financially until the summer. I'm worried the sceptical great unwashed will soon begin to reject the utter rubbish they've been fed and all the good ones will get snapped up. Save one of those two for me, Matt!
I've just bought this exact model second hand. 4 years and 45k miles and I really love it... just need to get to a hyundai dealer to factory reset the infotainment unit!
@GoGreenAutos I'm not sure if it's because im not used to the system buy I can't seem to find it. The previous owners bluelink profile is also on there which I'd quite like removed (and use the last year of free service!). BTW your videos have reassured my that uve bought the right car!
@@beingmediocre I have a video coming up on exactly this subject - how to remove your data when selling your car. But that won't come out for another week or so. Here's a sneak peak so you can sort your car out th-cam.com/video/TdB8YebeMWE/w-d-xo.html
@@trevorsbarkingmadchannel4501 No. But too early to tell really. The 28kWh battery is bullet proof and will outlast the car (in UK climates). I've heard of some cases of the 38kWh having reduced health, which you never hear with the 28kWh.
@@GoGreenAutos sold my 28 due to redundancy. Had a 30 leaf but battery didn’t cope with the cold this yr. I deliver with Amazon so 30+k miles per yr. so thinking a 28 it may well be or poss a 52kw Zoe Thank u great advice.
Still one of the top5 EVs in the market. Even the 28 kWh battery (older) version is still one of the best EVs. At lower speeds (50-90 km/h) it even beats the efficiency champion Tesla Model 3. Though, above 110km/h Tesla M3 is unbeatable. As an owner of both vehicles I can confirm all the data in this video.
@@GoGreenAutos We live in an age when a sizeable number of people deny the Moon landings, think the Earth is flat, and run by the Illuminati, so FUD relating to a relatively new technology is the norm, I guess.
I'm told you can make this SOH reading more reliable by doing a calibration charge. IE letting it get below 20% then charging to 100% and then letting the BMS tell you the SOH. But my Kona at 32000 miles is saying exactly the same thing, with no loss of range or performance. So I'm happy with that. It's a pinch of salt number but it's certainly not melting away and failing and that gave me the confidence to buy out the car from its PCP deal.
Hi, I own an EV so I was interested to know if a State of Health check gives the same readings as when an EV is sitting idle or being driven under load. For example using the heater / air con so wondered if it would highlight a weak cell for instance.
The 38 ioniq I had was 3 yrs old and showed 100% too. Now got Kona 64 and that's the same 100% at 3 yrs. Probably helps but the BMS shows 0 rapid charging events. I've not charged on a rapid and assume the previous owner hasn't too unless the selling garage reset all the counters in BMS.
I've had an e-Niro (64 kWh) from new since March 2019 and at 95,000 km there is no discernible loss of range. The actual pack size is 67.5 kWh but the BMS limits the max voltage on the cells until one or more cells can no longer reach the nominal cell voltage. Then the BMS cranks up the voltage slightly on all the other cells so as far as the driver is concerned there is still a full 64 kWh pack. How long it takes before the 3.5 kWh buffer is used up?...only time and mileage will tell.
@@kiae-nirodiariesencore4270my Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh loses 1% per year or so. Assuming it is the same for you, , it’s going to take 5-6 years to start affecting the battery beyond the buffer.
@@Nikoo033 That's right in theory but of course no two EVs are driven and charged in exactly the same way and the climate where the car is used will also play a part. 5-6 years of driving for me is about 100,000 km, for some it will be less, for others more. At 200,000 km and 10 years old I would expect to have lost about 5% of the original range of the car. At 300,000 km and 15 years old, allowing for calendar ageing too I would expect the range to be around 80% of its original...but still capable of 350 km. By that time and usage the majority of ICE vehicles are needing serious work to keep them going.
"Rapid" is a bit of a misnomer with the 38 Ioniq when I had mine I don't think I ever saw it peak at much over 33KW and most of the time it charged in the low 20s
It would be interesting to know what the actual usable capacity of the traction battery in kWh is now compared to new. Presumably not actually 38.3 kWh (100%)? Anyway an excellent result in each case here. Presumably the batteries haven't been rapid charged very frequently, and have not been left at very low or very high states of charge for long periods? Would be interesting to also get hold of a high mileage Ioniq of the same age and see how that compares to these, relatively low mileage examples. Very interesting results - thanks.
I've done tests before on our high mileage 28kWh model and the capacity is unchanged. PS. DC rapid charging has zero effect in the real world. Maybe does on a Leaf, but not others.
@@GoGreenAutos thanks, will watch again. Not doubting the results; just interested in the data. All batteries degrade over time so thought it could be useful to measure how much energy it's possible to put into the battery pack compared to what the BMS reports. It won't be as bad as the Leaf of course but some loss should be evident according to what we know about NMC electrochemistry.
Thanks i'm nearly sold on one of these. Have you tried the sport mode (does it make any appreciable difference) and if so also does it make the range drop off significantly?
Sport mode itself doesn't make the range drop off. Its how you use the accelerator. So in sport mode, if you drive like you did in normal or eco mode, you'll get the same efficiency.
So I've had my car for about a week and noticed I've got a reduced range of about 140 miles. The battery charges to 80% as normal but then suddenly says fully charged to 100% in about 10mins on a 2.3kwh charge. Have you heard if this before. Still love the car and it's not a show stopper for me
No. It sounds like you need to do some cell balancing. Use the car and get the battery down below 20%. Then fully charge it to 100% and leave it connected so it does the balancing. Use and repeat.
@GoGreenAutos so.i think this makes sense. I spoke to the previous owner through their registered bluelink email and they said that they consistently charged only to 80%. I'll have a go at this and let you know how I get on
@GoGreenAutos that's what I've been reading. It's such a lovely car I'm thrilled with it to be honest, and the amount of people that have asked me about it has been surprising
I handed my 38kWh Ioniq back at the end of the 3 year lease at the end of July 2023 with 67000 miles on the clock. Such a great car, but the battery coolant issue did keep reoccurring. How have you managed that with your two cars? I now have a Polestar 2, but the Ioniq had many better features than this newer, more expensive car.
Just noticed an Ioniq 38 in a forum post that appears to have SOH at 76.8 %. Maybe battery damage due to being left on 100% (or very low) state of charge too often and for too long, or a faulty cell?
@@WolfgangBothe 77% is really low and not sure if cell balancing will bring SOH above 80% in that case.. best I've got with cell rebalancing is extra 2-3% after repeated deep charging on AC over a few months.
Battery deterioration isn't State of Health. The scanner should have both options. It should show state of health, maximum deterioration, minimum deterioration, cell numbers for min and max. It looks like this scanner doesn't read all data from BMS
Niro has two pack sizes, so the larger pack has a lot more range. Its basically the powertrain with a different body. Niro is a small hatchback and does have more power from the motor, but that ends up making it not so nice to drive in my opinion and less efficient. Both excellent EVs, but the Ioniq wins for me.
Something I will never understand, I bought new energy tires I've done everything I can to make sure I drive efficiently and the most range I ever got out of my 2021 38 kegawatt, was 185 miles of range, I find it so frustrating when I see people like you who have 200 or more. Is there anything else I can do? Is it something in the computer itself?
We get ~220 miles in the summer. Lift each wheel and check the brakes aren't binding and causing drag. The rear brakes can do, see th-cam.com/video/FYlWAH-CNIk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6wM0LirN7KMd4ItD But its typically down to driving style. You need to look at your mpkWh rather than your range.
That's pretty impossible to have 100% SoH after 3 years. I own a 38kwh 2022 Ioniq with 16.000 km and the reported BMS heath is 92.6%. Maximum deterioration is not the SoH. On my OBD tool I have the parameter Maximum deterioration and it's about 10.2% and SoH is a separate parameter and it shows 92.6%
@@benellis7427 It can't be 100%. It's not realistic to have 0 degradation after more than 3 years. All batteries get some degradation after some km. Especially in the first year of usage.
@@ConstantinBanciu I’m well aware of that but you won’t notice it and the BMS SOH on Hyundai’s doesn’t drop for a considerable amount of time. If yours states 92.6 I’m guessing that you have a cell imbalance.
Great video. I have a 21 plate 38 KWH Ioniq. I was wondering if you know why my car won’t charge at the Tesla charging points - even the ones available To non Tesla cars. The app kept Saying “no car found” ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Some owners have had issues with the Tesla CCS plug not pushing home properly. I've not experienced it myself, but I made a video on it th-cam.com/video/-zOD7SU72yE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kugchG2pAggquJGu
@@thorsrensen3162 I have just watched that video. It looks very much to me that these TH-camrs are simply trying to create a buzz and generate views. First of all, it’s not 50k of US $, but Canadian dollars CAD$. So about £33k. Secondly, if you watch the video, you’ll see that the video talks about 2 different cases: one with a guy called Kyle and another one from a lady. The lady drove over another car’s exhaust! I mean, who does that??? The damages are superficial (video provided) and the car’s battery was fine in the end. It’s just her insurance being fussy. But the TH-camrs are mixing things up to confuse you by then switching to Kyle’s case in the middle of talking about the lady’s case and for which there was no video or photo this time and state a quote by Hyundai that damages were more extensive than previously assessed and that the battery needs replacing, at a prohibitive cost. So your brain goes, “hang on a minute, I’ve just seen a video of underneath the car and these were merely scratches”… but you’ve been conned because they are talking about Kyle’s case, for which you haven’t got any visuals for the damages incurred by the car… Basically, forget about these con artists trying to generate views.
Buying 2nd hand EV's are a bit of a minefield tbh. These cars are 2 low mileage cars that are looked after & slow charged. Least with an ex lease ice car you know it's in good condition with service history. When buying a 2nd hand EV I don't know if the previous owner only charged on rapids and charged to 100% all the time and run the battery down low all the time.
@@GoGreenAutos Thanks for that info. I always thought rapid charging damaged the battery if it was used a lot. Still there's noway of knowing if the previous owner kept within the 20-80 % or constantly ran low and charged full
Nah, I bought my Hyundai ioniq28 second hand with over 60000 mileage already. One year of ownership, nothing to report apart from a known issue with the charge port for which the warranty kicked in. Nothing to pay. All you have to do is get in touch directly with the place where the EV has been regularly serviced, or last serviced, have an honest discussion with them, ask them about state of health (SoH) of the battery at the time. Then use the dashboard data to work out current actual battery capacity of the EV and if the range corresponds to what is expected for the season according to EV database website. If all checks out, it’s all good. 👌🏻
It’s a shame that other manufacturers weren’t concentrating on the efficiency of their cars. There would be massive savings on resources and customers could buy cheaper vehicles.
Nope is not like that. Hyundai/Kia are gradually adding capacity from the buffer to keep range and SOH to 100%. So unfortunately those numbers are meaningless. Also, batteries don't age with time but with charge/discharge cycles and the dept of discharge (DOD) of those cycles. So its more the driven mileage and the rule of thumb for thermally well managed batteries (e.g. Tesla) is: 5% degradation after the first 50.000km and then 1% for every 50.000km which follows. My car has done 390.000km and the degradation is 14%.
If you can charge at home, peanuts. The Ioniq is around £150 for 10,000 miles. So around 1.5p per mile. See th-cam.com/users/shorts5bm6pp80x3U The Model S had free Supercharging which I tried to use as much as possible so has been even cheaper to run. Charging at home overnight currently costs 7p pkWh so is really cheap. I've done videos on the running costs of both of these here th-cam.com/video/_NSghKlh2eI/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/irmNwgS-bS4/w-d-xo.html.
Thanks Matt for another excellent video. This all helps to educate and counter the anti-EV nonsense out there about batteries. Our 2019 e-Niro (64 kWh useable) is now at 95,000 km here in France and I asked for a battery health check at the 90K service. All 294 cells are reaching their V-nominal but of course that is not the V-max of the cells, the difference between the voltage levels being the 3.5 kWh buffer. I posted a video on my channel back in the summer where I try to make the point that 'battery degradation' and 'range loss' are not the same thing. At nearly 5 years old there must have been some battery degradation on the e-Niro but I have seen no perceptible loss of range, which is all that matters to the owner.
Really? Do a test on a 7 to say 12 year old car and lets see.
PS. Its the same battery in your phone (Lithium) and we all know how that goes after 7/10 years.
Pretty sure you wouldn't buy a 9+ year old car - certain actually... Plenty of horror stories on out of warranty (10 yrs) electric cars
BTW cells are useless after charge around 5000 times or 10 years (whichever comes first) - hence the 10 year battery warranty.
@@MMD-z6z "PS. Its the same battery in your phone (Lithium) and we all know how that goes after 7/10 years."....Oh dear!...education required here.
Hyundai is kinda cheating in stating a SOH of 100% and no apparent loss of range. But the truth is that they quietly move capacity from the buffer to the usable capacity to compensate for degradation.
@@kiae-nirodiariesencore4270 You need education if you believe the chemistry in a lithium-ion battery differs between a phone, a laptop, a tablet, or a car. Reproducible scientific fact doesn't care about propaganda, it just is.
Hey Matt thank you for continuously posting videos on this great EV because of your videos me and the wife are firm that this will be our next car once we go full electric.
Great and informative information each video. Looking forward to the next
love mine, phenomenal range for battery size. New cars can barely match it with bigger batteries. this car is a hidden gem so keep it quiet😊
Great cars. It’s a shame that Hyundai hasn’t brought out a new version and went down the massive crossover SUV and saloon route instead. I’m still hoping they will bring out an efficient C-segment EV hatchback (i.e. a new version of the original Ioniq) eventually, rather than more crossovers and saloons.
Thank you for a wonderful helpful video. I have all my work done by the Renault agent from whom I took the lease on my Renault Zoe. My next vehicle will be a Vauxhall Combo Life Electric with the Wheelhome Vikenze III-e conversion.
Matt I agree with your point that a true SOH of a car is the miles one get from the car. My MG Zs EV after 3yrs is around 93% according to car scanner but my range hasn't changed a bit. With Eco mode on 90km I get almost 300km with A/c off and 264km on motorway which is what MG claim. So yeah.
My 2006 Peugeot 107 does 1150km on 8-gallons of petrol, and it's 18-years old, and weighs as much as the battery from a Tesla.
These cars are going to be like gold dust soon, especially when compared to the heavy and inefficient cars everyone is making nowadays.
Yes they are gems on the used market. What Hyundia Motor Group have learned from the Ioniq and first gen e-Niro will serve them well as they bring out smaller cars on the EV only platform. Tesla and HMG seem to be ahead of other OEMS when it comes to EV efficiency.
This worries me. These cars fit my usage model like a charm and it's right at the top of my list but I won't be able to commit financially until the summer. I'm worried the sceptical great unwashed will soon begin to reject the utter rubbish they've been fed and all the good ones will get snapped up. Save one of those two for me, Matt!
@@MrBinabananaDon’t worry too much, you will probably get one for £10k in the summer.
I've just bought this exact model second hand. 4 years and 45k miles and I really love it... just need to get to a hyundai dealer to factory reset the infotainment unit!
You can do that yourself easily. There's a reset option in the settings.
@GoGreenAutos I'm not sure if it's because im not used to the system buy I can't seem to find it. The previous owners bluelink profile is also on there which I'd quite like removed (and use the last year of free service!). BTW your videos have reassured my that uve bought the right car!
@@beingmediocre I have a video coming up on exactly this subject - how to remove your data when selling your car. But that won't come out for another week or so. Here's a sneak peak so you can sort your car out th-cam.com/video/TdB8YebeMWE/w-d-xo.html
Thank u that’s brilliant. Thank u for doing this. Best wishes
You are very welcome
@@GoGreenAutos would you say that a higher mileage 38kw ioniq batteries last like 28kw ioniq do ?
@@trevorsbarkingmadchannel4501 No. But too early to tell really. The 28kWh battery is bullet proof and will outlast the car (in UK climates). I've heard of some cases of the 38kWh having reduced health, which you never hear with the 28kWh.
@@GoGreenAutos sold my 28 due to redundancy. Had a 30 leaf but battery didn’t cope with the cold this yr. I deliver with Amazon so 30+k miles per yr. so thinking a 28 it may well be or poss a 52kw Zoe Thank u great advice.
Still one of the top5 EVs in the market. Even the 28 kWh battery (older) version is still one of the best EVs. At lower speeds (50-90 km/h) it even beats the efficiency champion Tesla Model 3. Though, above 110km/h Tesla M3 is unbeatable. As an owner of both vehicles I can confirm all the data in this video.
Excellent. I've heard similar concerns for the hybrid batteries, but other owners tell me they are lasting very well, too.
There's a lot of FUD out there when it comes to batteries.
@@GoGreenAutos We live in an age when a sizeable number of people deny the Moon landings, think the Earth is flat, and run by the Illuminati, so FUD relating to a relatively new technology is the norm, I guess.
I'm told you can make this SOH reading more reliable by doing a calibration charge. IE letting it get below 20% then charging to 100% and then letting the BMS tell you the SOH.
But my Kona at 32000 miles is saying exactly the same thing, with no loss of range or performance. So I'm happy with that. It's a pinch of salt number but it's certainly not melting away and failing and that gave me the confidence to buy out the car from its PCP deal.
Yes a full charge will help the BMS to calibrate the cells, but it will make zero difference in this case.
Hi, I own an EV so I was interested to know if a State of Health check gives the same readings as when an EV is sitting idle or being driven under load. For example using the heater / air con so wondered if it would highlight a weak cell for instance.
cells are useless after you charge them more than 5000 times or 10 years (whichever comes first) - hence the 10 year battery warranty.
The 38 ioniq I had was 3 yrs old and showed 100% too. Now got Kona 64 and that's the same 100% at 3 yrs. Probably helps but the BMS shows 0 rapid charging events. I've not charged on a rapid and assume the previous owner hasn't too unless the selling garage reset all the counters in BMS.
I've had an e-Niro (64 kWh) from new since March 2019 and at 95,000 km there is no discernible loss of range. The actual pack size is 67.5 kWh but the BMS limits the max voltage on the cells until one or more cells can no longer reach the nominal cell voltage. Then the BMS cranks up the voltage slightly on all the other cells so as far as the driver is concerned there is still a full 64 kWh pack. How long it takes before the 3.5 kWh buffer is used up?...only time and mileage will tell.
@@kiae-nirodiariesencore4270my Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh loses 1% per year or so. Assuming it is the same for you, , it’s going to take 5-6 years to start affecting the battery beyond the buffer.
@@Nikoo033 That's right in theory but of course no two EVs are driven and charged in exactly the same way and the climate where the car is used will also play a part. 5-6 years of driving for me is about 100,000 km, for some it will be less, for others more. At 200,000 km and 10 years old I would expect to have lost about 5% of the original range of the car. At 300,000 km and 15 years old, allowing for calendar ageing too I would expect the range to be around 80% of its original...but still capable of 350 km. By that time and usage the majority of ICE vehicles are needing serious work to keep them going.
@@kiae-nirodiariesencore4270 absolutely. 👌🏻
"Rapid" is a bit of a misnomer with the 38 Ioniq when I had mine I don't think I ever saw it peak at much over 33KW and most of the time it charged in the low 20s
It would be interesting to know what the actual usable capacity of the traction battery in kWh is now compared to new. Presumably not actually 38.3 kWh (100%)? Anyway an excellent result in each case here. Presumably the batteries haven't been rapid charged very frequently, and have not been left at very low or very high states of charge for long periods? Would be interesting to also get hold of a high mileage Ioniq of the same age and see how that compares to these, relatively low mileage examples. Very interesting results - thanks.
I've done tests before on our high mileage 28kWh model and the capacity is unchanged.
PS. DC rapid charging has zero effect in the real world. Maybe does on a Leaf, but not others.
@@GoGreenAutos thanks, will watch again. Not doubting the results; just interested in the data. All batteries degrade over time so thought it could be useful to measure how much energy it's possible to put into the battery pack compared to what the BMS reports. It won't be as bad as the Leaf of course but some loss should be evident according to what we know about NMC electrochemistry.
There are three ranges low, med, high in the battery level indicator each with 12 tabs. So 36 tabs in total. Are these all of equal value?
How did I miss this
Make sure you've got the notifications (bell button) turned on.
Thanks i'm nearly sold on one of these. Have you tried the sport mode (does it make any appreciable difference) and if so also does it make the range drop off significantly?
Sport mode itself doesn't make the range drop off. Its how you use the accelerator. So in sport mode, if you drive like you did in normal or eco mode, you'll get the same efficiency.
So I've had my car for about a week and noticed I've got a reduced range of about 140 miles. The battery charges to 80% as normal but then suddenly says fully charged to 100% in about 10mins on a 2.3kwh charge. Have you heard if this before. Still love the car and it's not a show stopper for me
No. It sounds like you need to do some cell balancing. Use the car and get the battery down below 20%. Then fully charge it to 100% and leave it connected so it does the balancing. Use and repeat.
@GoGreenAutos so.i think this makes sense. I spoke to the previous owner through their registered bluelink email and they said that they consistently charged only to 80%.
I'll have a go at this and let you know how I get on
@@beingmediocre Many make that mistake. Charge to 100% when AC charging, 80% when DC rapid charging.
@GoGreenAutos that's what I've been reading.
It's such a lovely car I'm thrilled with it to be honest, and the amount of people that have asked me about it has been surprising
SoH for the Ioniq is only a state of balance. Not more, not less.
I handed my 38kWh Ioniq back at the end of the 3 year lease at the end of July 2023 with 67000 miles on the clock. Such a great car, but the battery coolant issue did keep reoccurring.
How have you managed that with your two cars?
I now have a Polestar 2, but the Ioniq had many better features than this newer, more expensive car.
Both these cars have had one coolant change (warranty) and been fine since.
Just noticed an Ioniq 38 in a forum post that appears to have SOH at 76.8 %. Maybe battery damage due to being left on 100% (or very low) state of charge too often and for too long, or a faulty cell?
It's probably only a question of bad cell balancing. It can be fixed by charging the car to 100 % and then empty the battery down to 6 % or less.
@@WolfgangBothe 77% is really low and not sure if cell balancing will bring SOH above 80% in that case.. best I've got with cell rebalancing is extra 2-3% after repeated deep charging on AC over a few months.
Imagine what range that would achieve if it had the 64KWh battery from the Kona.
Yes, its a shame they stopped making it. Taxi firms would love it.
Can you leave a link to the scanner that you use please ?😊
The details are in the video description. No link as its an obsolete model now.
Battery deterioration isn't State of Health. The scanner should have both options. It should show state of health, maximum deterioration, minimum deterioration, cell numbers for min and max. It looks like this scanner doesn't read all data from BMS
What exactly is SOH a measurement of? Mine is 6.5 years old and @103k miles and still shows 100%
What is the range showing on dash at full charge?
Great video I’m unsure if I go for one of these or the e Niro when I do decide what’s your thoughts on the e Niro older design
Niro has two pack sizes, so the larger pack has a lot more range. Its basically the powertrain with a different body. Niro is a small hatchback and does have more power from the motor, but that ends up making it not so nice to drive in my opinion and less efficient. Both excellent EVs, but the Ioniq wins for me.
Can I ask how you charge the cars? Do you charge to 100% every time or 80% and only 100% for long trips?
100% every time, at least 5 days per week.
Deterioration:100% ? I would be spooked 😅
Yes, strange wording. I don't know why the labelling changed. Something lost in translation.
Something I will never understand, I bought new energy tires I've done everything I can to make sure I drive efficiently and the most range I ever got out of my 2021 38 kegawatt, was 185 miles of range, I find it so frustrating when I see people like you who have 200 or more. Is there anything else I can do? Is it something in the computer itself?
We get ~220 miles in the summer. Lift each wheel and check the brakes aren't binding and causing drag. The rear brakes can do, see th-cam.com/video/FYlWAH-CNIk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6wM0LirN7KMd4ItD
But its typically down to driving style. You need to look at your mpkWh rather than your range.
That's pretty impossible to have 100% SoH after 3 years. I own a 38kwh 2022 Ioniq with 16.000 km and the reported BMS heath is 92.6%. Maximum deterioration is not the SoH. On my OBD tool I have the parameter Maximum deterioration and it's about 10.2% and SoH is a separate parameter and it shows 92.6%
That’s strange I have a 2020 Ioniq 38Kwh and I’m still at 100%.
@@benellis7427 It can't be 100%. It's not realistic to have 0 degradation after more than 3 years. All batteries get some degradation after some km. Especially in the first year of usage.
@@ConstantinBanciu I’m well aware of that but you won’t notice it and the BMS SOH on Hyundai’s doesn’t drop for a considerable amount of time. If yours states 92.6 I’m guessing that you have a cell imbalance.
@@benellis7427 nope. All cells have the exact voltage
@@ConstantinBanciu I guess you must just be unlucky. Most are still showing 100%
Great video.
I have a 21 plate 38 KWH Ioniq. I was wondering if you know why my car won’t charge at the Tesla charging points - even the ones available
To non Tesla cars. The app kept
Saying “no car found” ?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Some owners have had issues with the Tesla CCS plug not pushing home properly. I've not experienced it myself, but I made a video on it th-cam.com/video/-zOD7SU72yE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kugchG2pAggquJGu
They're both 100%,, here i saved you 5 minutes
There was som Ionics which got a small dent in the battery and had to be replaced the battery for 50.000 usd.
Different Ionic, that’s the Ionic 5.
@@devonbikefilms OK ithe price just scared me and the owners had to make a difficult decision.
The official price for a new battery for the Ioniq 28Wh or 38kWh as announced by Hyundai is £5k-£8k not 50k 😅
@@Nikoo033 Sorry, it was the Ionic 5 battery which cost 60.000 USD, ref. the TH-camr MotorMouth in his video 4 days ago.
@@thorsrensen3162 I have just watched that video. It looks very much to me that these TH-camrs are simply trying to create a buzz and generate views.
First of all, it’s not 50k of US $, but Canadian dollars CAD$. So about £33k. Secondly, if you watch the video, you’ll see that the video talks about 2 different cases: one with a guy called Kyle and another one from a lady. The lady drove over another car’s exhaust! I mean, who does that??? The damages are superficial (video provided) and the car’s battery was fine in the end. It’s just her insurance being fussy. But the TH-camrs are mixing things up to confuse you by then switching to Kyle’s case in the middle of talking about the lady’s case and for which there was no video or photo this time and state a quote by Hyundai that damages were more extensive than previously assessed and that the battery needs replacing, at a prohibitive cost. So your brain goes, “hang on a minute, I’ve just seen a video of underneath the car and these were merely scratches”… but you’ve been conned because they are talking about Kyle’s case, for which you haven’t got any visuals for the damages incurred by the car…
Basically, forget about these con artists trying to generate views.
I think the main worry with these is the handles coming off 🤨
Buying 2nd hand EV's are a bit of a minefield tbh.
These cars are 2 low mileage cars that are looked after & slow charged.
Least with an ex lease ice car you know it's in good condition with service history.
When buying a 2nd hand EV I don't know if the previous owner only charged on rapids and charged to 100% all the time and run the battery down low all the time.
DC rapid charging has no effect and does not reduce battery health.
@@GoGreenAutos Thanks for that info. I always thought rapid charging damaged the battery if it was used a lot. Still there's noway of knowing if the previous owner kept within the 20-80 % or constantly ran low and charged full
@@stevebeever2442 It's leaving it at a high or very low state of charge for any length of time that causes deterioration
Nah, I bought my Hyundai ioniq28 second hand with over 60000 mileage already. One year of ownership, nothing to report apart from a known issue with the charge port for which the warranty kicked in. Nothing to pay. All you have to do is get in touch directly with the place where the EV has been regularly serviced, or last serviced, have an honest discussion with them, ask them about state of health (SoH) of the battery at the time. Then use the dashboard data to work out current actual battery capacity of the EV and if the range corresponds to what is expected for the season according to EV database website. If all checks out, it’s all good. 👌🏻
It’s a shame that other manufacturers weren’t concentrating on the efficiency of their cars. There would be massive savings on resources and customers could buy cheaper vehicles.
My soh is 89% after 20k miles 2021 model mainly charged ac 7kw …. I’m thinking to sell this car
Nope is not like that. Hyundai/Kia are gradually adding capacity from the buffer to keep range and SOH to 100%. So unfortunately those numbers are meaningless. Also, batteries don't age with time but with charge/discharge cycles and the dept of discharge (DOD) of those cycles. So its more the driven mileage and the rule of thumb for thermally well managed batteries (e.g. Tesla) is: 5% degradation after the first 50.000km and then 1% for every 50.000km which follows. My car has done 390.000km and the degradation is 14%.
What are the true running costs per mile on average.
If you can charge at home, peanuts. The Ioniq is around £150 for 10,000 miles. So around 1.5p per mile. See th-cam.com/users/shorts5bm6pp80x3U
The Model S had free Supercharging which I tried to use as much as possible so has been even cheaper to run.
Charging at home overnight currently costs 7p pkWh so is really cheap. I've done videos on the running costs of both of these here th-cam.com/video/_NSghKlh2eI/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/irmNwgS-bS4/w-d-xo.html.
Why my one showing 100% charge to range is 136 miles, please help me
What is your average economy showing as?