Hi, Hambini. How to remove the bearings if Loctite 641 was used during installation? Heat the bottom bracket to a temperature of 250C? You recommend using Loctite 641, but you don't show how to remove the bearings afterwards.
That titanium PF30 BB looks absolutely gorgeous. If it fit my 2016 Litespeed T1 to be used with Campagnolo Chorus cranks I would buy it in a heartbeat instead of using the Campagnolo PF30 cups. Those work for around 12,000km, but want something more durable.
I have cycled 16,000 km on Hambini Racing BB30 and I am finishing the season. Basically everything works great and all I'm going to do is disassemble the crank and clean out the dirt and lubricate the crank axle. Any recommendations? After what mileage will it be time to replace the bearings?
If I was pulling a bearing from an automotive or precision application I’d use a puller, I’d apply the same logic to pull a bearing from a bike frame or a hub. Why then are all BB removal tools and related guides on TH-cam (Park, GCN etc.) based on the premise of behaving like an ape and bashing bearings out with a big hammer and a drift (The exception being this video, which to my mind is the way it should be done). Answers on a postcard please
Simo ST Unior do a pulling tool, which looks very similar to this, but a lot of people have fell for the marketing by park tool that only they sell BB bearing removal tools, and those are the ones that you smack with a hammer. Always makes me wince at the thought of having to hit someone's £7k Carbon pride and joy with a hammer.
@@Thecrazyvaclav I got mine from a small independent seller online for about £20 that machines them in their own workshop by the looks of it. It’s simple and nicely made and slides a bearing out with just a spanner. I got some wheels Universal press drifts that fit both cups and bearings of various sizes but then made up a the press part with stud, bolts and washers rather than cough £50-60 for the press handles.
Mr Hambini, I have noticed that you do not use any lubricant on the bearing or the bracket wile pressing the bearing in place. Is this not required, because i was told that much lubricant would keep water from getting in! What is your take on this?
So NTN ultra low friction bearings are dry? No lubrication of any kind? What's your recommended method of cleaning? No lube after cleaning either? BTW, rumour has it that Felt is using Micro Blue Thin Body for BB lube on their Olympic TT bikes. Thoughts?
Would love to get your advice on pressfit bearing tools for wheels and hubs. Hard to find in your average shop or online shop. Also open for AliExpress tips.
Thank You @Hambini for excellent channel regarding bike tech specs... and revealing things that bike industry wouldn't. I've been planning to get myself a handmade rimbrake roadbike from a local luthier. I can even choose a bottom bracket type (pressfit bb30 to threaded etc). Which type would You recommend? Thanks for Your channel!
I have a frame specified as BB72 for Shimano. Does that mean I could use you Hambini BB86 bottom bracket kit as a simple installation ? I have put myself on the notificarion list for when you get your BB86 kit back in stock. Any adea how long this might be ? Cheers
While putting back the crankset on a bb30 setup, after torquing to spec, should the wave washer be completely flat and flush against the nylon washer? Or a little wave shape should be there?
LOL. It was only ever designed as a conversion originally, it just happens to be quite effective at getting rid of creak. If you want a creaky frame by a cannondale or boardman.
hey Hambini, so by using the cups or adapters to fit the shimano cranks are you losing more power if you use an integrated BB? or loses are minimal? how many watts or % would you approximately lose with the cups?
IF the cups are loose, you'll lose about 5W irrespective of speed. That's through frictional loss mainly as the balls will bind. More worrying is the damage it might do to your bike frame. Hope that helps Hambini
New subscriber & enjoying your channel as I play catch-up on past videos. Just curious, on one Wheel video You were less than impressed by Zipp claims.........so I was surprised to see them mounted on your BMC. What is the background story why You chose them?
Hambini, Ive got 2 BB's from you, i just ordered a new necked on, but want to pull the bearings as spares from my first. NON necked one.. Where can i get that exact puller you're using? Or Anyone here?
The bearing removal tool varies depending on size. The principle of operation is the same but the puller and screw cup are different. My bb30 bottom brackets use a 25mm puller. The bb30 bearing removal tool uses a 30mm puller.
My preference is to use some interface (it doesn't have to be delrin) between the axle and the bearing. The bearing is hardened, the axle is often aluminium or soft steel. The combination of a hardened steel bearing on a softish aluminium axle will result in the axle wearing down and eventually causing some slop. Therefore I would go with delrin/nylon every time. - On BB30, this is difficult as the next size bearing up will not fit in the shell.
How come you use the Delrin spacers? I've never seen a wear problem running the axle right on the bearing (Trek BB90), since they rotate in unison (or should be). On bb sets like the Enduro angular contact, they're instructing us to disregard the Delrin spacer as the bearing is oversized innerly to fit the crank shaft.
Matt Sidebottom get a BB that allows you to use a 24mm ID bearing. I did that with the PF30 supersix hi-mod frame. Not sure if Hambini makes one but if not try wheels manufacturing. Once the shell is fitted you can replace bearings as required without interfering with the shell installation. It’s expensive first time around as you buy the full BB assembly (~£60) but bearings thereafter are around £20 for a decent set.
I got a question about the pricing of the NTN bearing on your site, most place like amazon/ebay/some industrial retailer quote around $50 each for NTN 6806 series, while on aliexpress there are quotes as low as $3 which i have no doubt is fake. It just make me hesitate to order from hambini.com for the in-between price of $15. Does that cause by any spec difference or may be that's just over pricing everywhere?
Hi Fenix. The $3 bearing from aliexpress is most probably fake. All of my bearings are genuine and I have a very good working relationship with NTN so I am well supported by them. I don't deal in fakes because it would look bad for my professional reputation. The prices are competitive for the UK, they are all around £20 - google simply bearings and bearing boys. Hope that helps Hambini
i have never had any issue with BB86 creaking, but what i find really attractive about your solution is that I am a little nervous pressing in cups - and punching them out - from a carbon frame. I realise that this is likely something i am disproportionally neurotic about but nevertheless I would rather pay my LBS to push in and punch out the shimano cups. I had a feeling that what you detail in the video was how you service the BB once installed - and the combination of pushing/extracting the bearings out from your metal BB (rather than the carbon shell) and the fact that you can spec your own bearings is very much where i see the value if you ported your solution to BB86.
I'm of the same ilk. I hated hammering my carbon frame to get the bearings out. I don't really know why other people don't have "pull out" bearings rather than hammer out.
The noise comes from the build up of tension from the puller. When the tension builds up and suddenly relieves itself you hear the pinging. It's similar to twanging a spoke.
Just a quick Q regarding your BMC bike. When you've done your manufacturers BB creak test and summary of tolerances in Excel, where would the BMC carbon bikes fit in in terms of manufacturing tolerances and quality?
Thanks a lot. I'm not sure if they're manufacturing the carbon frames in-house still, or moved to China as most of others. Just in the process of investigating the creak on my BMC trailFox MTB, where the pain is a bit multiplied due to the rear shock bushings and pivots bearings ;). Suspension is the next step I guess (left it last as it's been recently upgraded), I've replaced the BB and pedals already. Great videos and tutorials btw, thank you!
In my opinion, no. The loading from putting 800W through the cranks is not going to trouble a standard deep groove ball bearing so I don't see the need for an angular contact bearing. Angular contact will have more drag and slow you down.
I have a question about my pf30 BB and if i need loctite primer i just bought a megexo (FSA) crank with a powermeter ( couldn't resist . it was really cheap) and that means i need a new BB(my current one is a cheap sram pf30 one which cr**ks). i have heard that megaexo cranks fix the normal shimano 24mm , do you have any advice on this ? For my previous BB installation i used loctite 609 without primer and it worked fine for ± 25km and then it started clicking again. some peoplpe say that i should use the primer with it as both carbon and plastic are neutral. can you confirm ?
Thank you very much. can you give me the exact diameter and width of your shimano pf30 Bb ? so i can meassure and compare with my mega exo crank, i will buy one if it fits. Relly like how you just tell the truth about bearings and such. had a good laugh because of your reaction "BBinfinite scammers"
i will meassure the cranks on monday. they are in the post office now. never had such an awesome deal. New Dura ace pedals. zipp service course sl stem ,zipp sl bars,sram force cassette 11-28 and a fsa energy crank with powermeter and ceramicspeed bearings for €170 including shipping. will give the ceramicspeed bearings to a friend of mine as i cant use them
Hey there! I hope you can help me with a technical question: Can I use a Cannondale SI road crankset (BB30a) on a BSA frame using a BSA30 adapter? I understand that the regular Cannondale road spindle is too short for that. Is it an option to replace the 109mm road spindle with a 120mm or 125mm one, with the right spacers? Could this work? Would this effect the chain line on a BSA frame? I hope you can help me, I’m desperately looking for a new frame using my old parts - but it seems to be super hard with BB30a components … Thanks!
Old video but I need to clarify something. I've seen bottom brackets that use 37x24x7 bearings and others like yours that use 37x25x7 (standard size) bearings. What's the meaning of using 2 different sizes? I guess the 37x25 is easier to find butneeds a sleeve to fit the shimano spindle and the 37x24 not? I have a bottom bracket that uses 37x24x7 bearings...can I switch them with, for example, an NTN 37x25x7 in any way? Thanks
@@Hambini I have a Token Ninja bb86 for shimano that uses 24x37x7 bearings. What do you think about switching to Ntn 25x37x7 llb and use the shimano Hollowtech II BB plastic sleeve to fit the shimano crankset?
The reducing sleeves are more tolerant of spindle size discrepancy than a direct fit bearing. There's also a slight risk that the bearing bore can corrode and seize on the spindle.
Does anyone happen to know a specific name that could be applied to the actual handle piece that Hambini calls the "press"? I'd like to build my own bearing press, but i can't find that specific part because i feel like the terms i've been trying to use aren't specific enough. thanks!
Mr Hambini, You Are Genius!
Wow... I hadn't realised you'd even thought about your service system on your BB's. That is quite impressive
Thanks for the feedback.
Great demo - looks simple. Obviously the right tools help.
Good job Mr. Hambini. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, Hambini. How to remove the bearings if Loctite 641 was used during installation? Heat the bottom bracket to a temperature of 250C? You recommend using Loctite 641, but you don't show how to remove the bearings afterwards.
That titanium PF30 BB looks absolutely gorgeous. If it fit my 2016 Litespeed T1 to be used with Campagnolo Chorus cranks I would buy it in a heartbeat instead of using the Campagnolo PF30 cups. Those work for around 12,000km, but want something more durable.
I have cycled 16,000 km on Hambini Racing BB30 and I am finishing the season. Basically everything works great and all I'm going to do is disassemble the crank and clean out the dirt and lubricate the crank axle. Any recommendations? After what mileage will it be time to replace the bearings?
great tutorial, thanks for the vid
If I was pulling a bearing from an automotive or precision application I’d use a puller, I’d apply the same logic to pull a bearing from a bike frame or a hub.
Why then are all BB removal tools and related guides on TH-cam (Park, GCN etc.) based on the premise of behaving like an ape and bashing bearings out with a big hammer and a drift (The exception being this video, which to my mind is the way it should be done).
Answers on a postcard please
Simo ST Unior do a pulling tool, which looks very similar to this, but a lot of people have fell for the marketing by park tool that only they sell BB bearing removal tools, and those are the ones that you smack with a hammer.
Always makes me wince at the thought of having to hit someone's £7k Carbon pride and joy with a hammer.
@@Thecrazyvaclav I got mine from a small independent seller online for about £20 that machines them in their own workshop by the looks of it. It’s simple and nicely made and slides a bearing out with just a spanner.
I got some wheels Universal press drifts that fit both cups and bearings of various sizes but then made up a the press part with stud, bolts and washers rather than cough £50-60 for the press handles.
should you use any sort of adhesive to lock the bearings in place, or is it just a friction fit?
Mr Hambini, I have noticed that you do not use any lubricant on the bearing or the bracket wile pressing the bearing in place. Is this not required, because i was told that much lubricant would keep water from getting in! What is your take on this?
are you supposed to put your bearings in dry without any grease?
So NTN ultra low friction bearings are dry? No lubrication of any kind? What's your recommended method of cleaning? No lube after cleaning either? BTW, rumour has it that Felt is using Micro Blue Thin Body for BB lube on their Olympic TT bikes. Thoughts?
The NTN bearings have lubricant in them but the question was during install do you put them in dry. In which case the answer is yes install them dry.
Would love to get your advice on pressfit bearing tools for wheels and hubs. Hard to find in your average shop or online shop. Also open for AliExpress tips.
is that a 55:39 crankset? Hambini is no Hambweenie!
Thank You @Hambini for excellent channel regarding bike tech specs... and revealing things that bike industry wouldn't.
I've been planning to get myself a handmade rimbrake roadbike from a local luthier. I can even choose a bottom bracket type (pressfit bb30 to threaded etc). Which type would You recommend?
Thanks for Your channel!
Luthier definition: A maker of stringed instrument. Why not get a handmade road bike from a local landscaper?
I have a frame specified as BB72 for Shimano. Does that mean I could use you Hambini BB86 bottom bracket kit as a simple installation ? I have put myself on the notificarion list for when you get your BB86 kit back in stock. Any adea how long this might be ? Cheers
When you remove a bearing with a puller like that and if the bearing was pretty new before that, is it ok to reuse it?
No it's not
@@Hambini Okay thank you for the answer :)
While putting back the crankset on a bb30 setup, after torquing to spec, should the wave washer be completely flat and flush against the nylon washer? Or a little wave shape should be there?
It should not be flat
I want an excuse to buy a new Hambini BB just so I can service it.
PMSL. Never heard that one. I think some tools to service your bike might be in order.
I too am struggling with the emotion "I think i want to buy a frameset notorious for a creaking BB just so i can get myself a Hambini" #oddproblems
LOL. It was only ever designed as a conversion originally, it just happens to be quite effective at getting rid of creak. If you want a creaky frame by a cannondale or boardman.
@@Hambini Why not a Cervélo?
@@PeaceDogSWE As a proportion, you are more likely to get creak with Cannondale. Cervelo are by no means good but you are less likely.
hey Hambini, so by using the cups or adapters to fit the shimano cranks are you losing more power if you use an integrated BB? or loses are minimal? how many watts or % would you approximately lose with the cups?
IF the cups are loose, you'll lose about 5W irrespective of speed. That's through frictional loss mainly as the balls will bind. More worrying is the damage it might do to your bike frame.
Hope that helps
Hambini
New subscriber & enjoying your channel as I play catch-up on past videos. Just curious, on one Wheel video You were less than impressed by Zipp claims.........so I was surprised to see them mounted on your BMC. What is the background story why You chose them?
They were cheap!
LOL.........thanks for candid reply.......LOL
Hambini, Ive got 2 BB's from you, i just ordered a new necked on, but want to pull the bearings as spares from my first. NON necked one.. Where can i get that exact puller you're using? Or Anyone here?
Hi, is the bearing removal tool you used the same one for removing BB30 bearings?
The bearing removal tool varies depending on size. The principle of operation is the same but the puller and screw cup are different. My bb30 bottom brackets use a 25mm puller. The bb30 bearing removal tool uses a 30mm puller.
Can I buy your removal tool from your website? And does it do different types of bb ? Eg bb30a
My truvativ pf30ai has sleeves like those and they have creat gap.they get loose.
There are any optional to use?
Can you make a video service n change bearing for sram gxp bb :) n possible suggest best bearing for it
Whats your take on using delrin cups rather than axle on straight on bearing interfaces eg bb30?
My preference is to use some interface (it doesn't have to be delrin) between the axle and the bearing. The bearing is hardened, the axle is often aluminium or soft steel. The combination of a hardened steel bearing on a softish aluminium axle will result in the axle wearing down and eventually causing some slop. Therefore I would go with delrin/nylon every time. - On BB30, this is difficult as the next size bearing up will not fit in the shell.
Hambini c
How come you use the Delrin spacers? I've never seen a wear problem running the axle right on the bearing (Trek BB90), since they rotate in unison (or should be). On bb sets like the Enduro angular contact, they're instructing us to disregard the Delrin spacer as the bearing is oversized innerly to fit the crank shaft.
If ive got a caad12 with bb30a and wanted to put in ultegra crankset would the push in adapters work from fsa or does it need a new bottom bracket?
Matt Sidebottom get a BB that allows you to use a 24mm ID bearing. I did that with the PF30 supersix hi-mod frame. Not sure if Hambini makes one but if not try wheels manufacturing.
Once the shell is fitted you can replace bearings as required without interfering with the shell installation. It’s expensive first time around as you buy the full BB assembly (~£60) but bearings thereafter are around £20 for a decent set.
@@simost2566 cheers ill look into that
I got a question about the pricing of the NTN bearing on your site, most place like amazon/ebay/some industrial retailer quote around $50 each for NTN 6806 series, while on aliexpress there are quotes as low as $3 which i have no doubt is fake. It just make me hesitate to order from hambini.com for the in-between price of $15. Does that cause by any spec difference or may be that's just over pricing everywhere?
Hi Fenix. The $3 bearing from aliexpress is most probably fake. All of my bearings are genuine and I have a very good working relationship with NTN so I am well supported by them. I don't deal in fakes because it would look bad for my professional reputation. The prices are competitive for the UK, they are all around £20 - google simply bearings and bearing boys. Hope that helps Hambini
Would you make a bb86 24mm version in the future?
If there was enough demand, I would but I think Shimano has the market pretty well sewn up and they don't seem to have issues with creaking.
i have never had any issue with BB86 creaking, but what i find really attractive about your solution is that I am a little nervous pressing in cups - and punching them out - from a carbon frame. I realise that this is likely something i am disproportionally neurotic about but nevertheless I would rather pay my LBS to push in and punch out the shimano cups. I had a feeling that what you detail in the video was how you service the BB once installed - and the combination of pushing/extracting the bearings out from your metal BB (rather than the carbon shell) and the fact that you can spec your own bearings is very much where i see the value if you ported your solution to BB86.
I'm of the same ilk. I hated hammering my carbon frame to get the bearings out. I don't really know why other people don't have "pull out" bearings rather than hammer out.
my nerves are not a huge fan of the cracking noise when you install your BB, i assume this is because it is installed dry ?
The noise comes from the build up of tension from the puller. When the tension builds up and suddenly relieves itself you hear the pinging. It's similar to twanging a spoke.
Just a quick Q regarding your BMC bike. When you've done your manufacturers BB creak test and summary of tolerances in Excel, where would the BMC carbon bikes fit in in terms of manufacturing tolerances and quality?
They are around the Dongfu area. Certainly not on a par with Look or Time but much better than cannondale.
Thanks a lot. I'm not sure if they're manufacturing the carbon frames in-house still, or moved to China as most of others.
Just in the process of investigating the creak on my BMC trailFox MTB, where the pain is a bit multiplied due to the rear shock bushings and pivots bearings ;). Suspension is the next step I guess (left it last as it's been recently upgraded), I've replaced the BB and pedals already.
Great videos and tutorials btw, thank you!
Hi,
You don’t use loctite for Hambini’s BB’s?
You can if you need it.
And are angular contact bearings recommended for BBs?
In my opinion, no. The loading from putting 800W through the cranks is not going to trouble a standard deep groove ball bearing so I don't see the need for an angular contact bearing. Angular contact will have more drag and slow you down.
Hello, i have an Supersix evo with PF30a bb, ist there an NTN Bearing with Bearing cup Option for me?
6806 from any brand will fit.
I have a question about my pf30 BB and if i need loctite primer
i just bought a megexo (FSA) crank with a powermeter ( couldn't resist . it was really cheap) and that means i need a new BB(my current one is a cheap sram pf30 one which cr**ks). i have heard that megaexo cranks fix the normal shimano 24mm , do you have any advice on this ?
For my previous BB installation i used loctite 609 without primer and it worked fine for ± 25km and then it started clicking again. some peoplpe say that i should use the primer with it as both carbon and plastic are neutral. can you confirm ?
I would definitely recommend using primer. Normal retaining compound will not stick well to anything non-metallic.
Thank you very much. can you give me the exact diameter and width of your shimano pf30 Bb ? so i can meassure and compare with my mega exo crank, i will buy one if it fits.
Relly like how you just tell the truth about bearings and such. had a good laugh because of your reaction "BBinfinite scammers"
i will meassure the cranks on monday. they are in the post office now. never had such an awesome deal.
New Dura ace pedals. zipp service course sl stem ,zipp sl bars,sram force cassette 11-28 and a fsa energy crank with powermeter and ceramicspeed bearings for €170 including shipping. will give the ceramicspeed bearings to a friend of mine as i cant use them
@@Hambini can u suggest me. What kind of retaining compound need to use on bb cup
Hey there!
I hope you can help me with a technical question:
Can I use a Cannondale SI road crankset (BB30a) on a BSA frame using a BSA30 adapter? I understand that the regular Cannondale road spindle is too short for that. Is it an option to replace the 109mm road spindle with a 120mm or 125mm one, with the right spacers? Could this work? Would this effect the chain line on a BSA frame?
I hope you can help me, I’m desperately looking for a new frame using my old parts - but it seems to be super hard with BB30a components …
Thanks!
Old video but I need to clarify something. I've seen bottom brackets that use 37x24x7 bearings and others like yours that use 37x25x7 (standard size) bearings.
What's the meaning of using 2 different sizes? I guess the 37x25 is easier to find butneeds a sleeve to fit the shimano spindle and the 37x24 not? I have a bottom bracket that uses 37x24x7 bearings...can I switch them with, for example, an NTN 37x25x7 in any way? Thanks
The 25mm bore is a standard size the 24mm is not
@@Hambini I have a Token Ninja bb86 for shimano that uses 24x37x7 bearings. What do you think about switching to Ntn 25x37x7 llb and use the shimano Hollowtech II BB plastic sleeve to fit the shimano crankset?
The reducing sleeves are more tolerant of spindle size discrepancy than a direct fit bearing. There's also a slight risk that the bearing bore can corrode and seize on the spindle.
What's the reason you prefer Shimano over Sram?
SRAM manufacturing tolerances are crap.
So, where can I order this?
Of course, I'd ask this question 15 seconds before the end of the video. I never learn. On your website now.
OK. I see you have answered your own question!
Does anyone happen to know a specific name that could be applied to the actual handle piece that Hambini calls the "press"? I'd like to build my own bearing press, but i can't find that specific part because i feel like the terms i've been trying to use aren't specific enough. thanks!
Only the square taper bottom bracket is perfect. Sorry, Hambini. 😞
no grease:)
Hmm... You forgot to swear.