(Read this in your nice voice because I'm not trying to be rude) Think about this 🤔 if you don't agree with Hambini then just clearly explain why he's wrong and why you're right. Hambini wouldn't have a channel if he called someone a wanker then asked us to like, sub, bell his five second video. People are interested in what he has to say because he'll call out a wanker then spend 45 minutes explaining in detail the design flaws and how it could be improved. If you call someone an idiot then back it up with an explanation. If you don't think he's right I would love to hear an explanation. Trust me I love counter arguments it's how things get better. If Hambini calls someone a wanker and doesn't explain why then he would seem like a dick. Because he explains himself he comes across as being fed up.
It looked counter-intuitive to me too, so I looked it up with Google, here is what I got: Are bottom bracket threads backwards? Dear Lennard, The way the bottom bracket thread standard is, it would cause a bottom bracket cup to loosen when pedaling if a bottom bracket bearing gets too tight. It seems that if the drive-side is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side is left-hand, then the pedaling motion will not cause the cups to loosen. Did someone got it wrong originally or is there a good reason for it? Luckily bottom brackets are becoming threadless. - Ned Dear Ned, Actually, the English standard bottom bracket threads are set up correctly. When the bearings are functioning properly, pedaling tightens the cups in. When the bearings are seized up, pedaling would loosen the cups. If that’s not clear, then think about it for a moment. The drive-side cup is left-hand threaded, so if the crank were affixed to the cup like a wrench (as would happen if the bearings were seized up), pedaling forward would turn the cup clockwise, which would unscrew the left-hand-threaded cup. But if the bearing turns freely, then the spindle turning clockwise rolls the ball bearings along with it, and the outboard side of each ball turns the opposite direction of the inboard side of the ball. So, the free-rolling balls are tightening the cup in further as the rider pedals forward. The inverse is of course true for the non-drive-side cup. And pedal threads behave the same way, even though the drive-side pedal is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side pedal is left-hand threaded. ― Lennard
@@404nobrakes Besides being a christian I am from an era where a man could greet another without being called a homosexual. But no thanks I have an amazing wife just like Hambini.
Hi Hambini, Great to know what kind of tools need to prepare, installation steps and the maintenance procedures on your bsa bottom bracket, nice video!
thanks for this. done it a million times but i always learn more watching your in depth explanations. Eg i always just installed drive side first and then non. if i encounter a bike with poor alignment and wasn't paying attention that could be disastrous
I love finely engineered products. That's one of my draws to cycling. Where else can you go, where the comments are almost as entertaining as the main video content. "almost"
Beautiful piece. I also have an older Look frame that "bends" under load in very step climbs, would love it to have your bottom bracket. I've gotten a lot of pushback by bike store managers on mentioning your bottom brackets. They know you and your channel, they keep pushing to buy big-brand BBs instead...from them, of course 😁
@RollinRat Hello, for hollowtech II crank being installed on a Pinarello ITA do you recommend tightening by hand or torquing to 40nm spec? Also, I notice some mechanics will put grease on the BB threads before installing, but Shimano already have blue loctite on their BB threads. Would you just install it straight up?
Pedaling forward could loosen the BB if not fully tightened as you tightened the BB while "pedaling" backwards, same with the pedals I believe the reason for the reverse threads is that BB's and pedals don't become too tight after time. am I misunderstanding??
@@olo398 I get a cut every time Hambini exposes a low quality manufacturer and makes higher quality products for me to purchase. This saves me money in the long run.
Looks like the best bb with the least friction ever. At least compared with your other videos. However, I will take a look at your website and order one BSA bb for my bike
I was thinking about the return to threaded BBs that has started with the likes of Trek. They have gone all the way back to an aluminium tube bonded into the BB that cups thread into. Why didn't they make a aluminium tube that bearings can press directly into, essentially like Hambini's BB here and just bond it into the BB shell? This one is made to replace a HollowTechII BB so the bearings are external to the frame. If someone was designing from scratch they might make it a single part where the external surface is a plain tube and just have internal ridges that the bearings press against. It could be as wide as a current pressfit BB and whatever diameter the frame allows. Is any more required than that?
people miss that this is not about the quality of the bearings, but ensuring their aligment and the associated marginal gains. 12 times better than dura ace? surely not, more like 3 watts
the more i watch hambini the more i imagine him cringing at how we install bearings at my work (i am a junior machinist/fitter and turner) since 90% of the time we just tap the bearings in place with a brass drift and a smol hammer
@RollinRat lol yeah we use a brass or copper drif 90% of the time to its not steel on steel and doesnt cause mutch harm Were a small 3 man shop we dont have ovens and nitrogen of a huge ass press that can fit any stroke/ diameter
Newer MTB BB's are using a smaller diameter bearing (Most come with a plastic adaptor to go into the BB tool used in the video to fill the space between the tool and the new smaller BB cups - interestingly it won't fit the 1/2" drive socket I got for the original size because there's a lot less clearance between the inner diameter of the tool and the outer diameter of the BB cup). As a result, it's possible that some of the newer cranks are making use of the freed up space, so they won't fit over a bigger BB cup. I've not put enough miles on the smaller size BB's yet (I've only worn out 2 of them) to have a feel for whether they're as durable as the older ones, but I am getting some serious creaking on the one fitted to one of my bikes under high torque, which hasn't happened with the previous 2 BB's in that frame before, so provisionally I'm falling towards less durable.
The frames bottom bracket shell will drive the alignment, the tight fitting 2 part sleeve is not stiff enough to overcome bad bottom bracket shell geometry.
@@Hambini I guess it might be able to do that. You do any testing to see if it actually works? Threaded interfaces do have clearance so theoretically this could align the two sides within that slop. From a practical standpoint I would be suspicious of it doing much, hopefully it does ;-)
@@markrushton1516 I'm living over in Norway now and know exactly what you mean. Could still murder a meal or 176.6 from the Kashmir though :D Have a few veg dhals too and you may have a gas powered bike with a BB that's stiff as owt
Ultratorque cups are crap. There's no flange on the inside of the splines so the tool slips off, if you're not super vigilant, and they get messed up by the harder steel of the tool. Do you make any campy replacements?
Hey Mumbai, next time you are installing a BB take a small file or 80 grit sand paper to that "paint over-spray" rim area on the frame prior to install.
@@Hambini Even with external spoke nipples? Is that last single watt of aero savings not attractive enough? Edit: are we going to ignore the fact that they come with ceramic bearings, and Hambini is still touting them as the "lick"? XD
Hey hambini I had an 2008 fsa gossamer 2x10 crank and the steel shaft broke clean off from the left side ,and I had a bad crash.the preload was set properly with a torque tool. My Question is this: can the shaft fail like that?.Thanks in advance.
Hi, is the self tightening ok for other bb? I looks like it’s snug but definitely not 40nm. Can you explain? I’d like to save money and not buy this torque wrench. Thank you!
I wish this product was available 2 months ago. I got some Rotor BSA cups, removed the cheap bearings and installed some nice Hambini NTN 6806 bearings (386EVO crank on BB30 shell). Which got me thinking, will the removal and installation of bearings eventually wear the fit in the cups?
Tony Diez probably. It’s alloy vs hardened steel. But would you rather wear out a $250 BB (which includes bearings) or your $3000 frame? The Hambini approach is so much better than any other BB implementation that it kind of boggles the mind. How is this not the industry standard
Hi Hambini. Could you explain how DS LH thread and NDS RH thread gets to be self tightening? On the surface this seems counter-intuitive. What happens in the bb when the spindle/crankset spins in the direction of unthreading? I think all mechanics have seen cups with tight bearings that has worked them selves out and jammed under the increasing preload.. Oh. I think I've just answered my own question. The outer race wants to spin in the opposite direction under normal load?
For £250 the female sleeve needs to be longer, preferably as long as needed to thread over the length of the male sleeve. Otherwise, looks like a BSA30 with good bearings and adaptors for 24mm shimano cranks.
Nice work Hambini. Hey I’ve got a video idea for you. The new rapide clx wheelset from Roval. 35mm external width in the front wheel with 26c tyres. Love to get the real story on those aerodynamics 😳. Not sure what the best forum or location would be to make the request so I’ve put it here.
@ hambini - loving your vids and bespoke engineering insight. checking to see if you have any BBs that will interface to a 2020 Ibis Ripmo AF frame and Shimano XT groupset? believe the BB is threaded. first time full suspension rider transitioning from a vintage hard tail mtb. still learning the ropes and will be doing a full build. planning to buy your BB install tool. appreciate your tech consult. keep rock’n 🔥!
Somewhere or another I got a socket for doing that. I have ceased tightening British threaded BB's beyond snug since they self tighten anyway. Why don't you simply use the normal bearing removal tool? If you are pulling it out you are replacing it so it isn't as if you have to worry about damaging the cage.
@@Hambini - From Trek I got one of those split aluminum tools that was smaller than the 24 mm shaft diameter of the Shimano and would push through. Granted unlike your extractor it seems crude but as I said, since that bearing is getting tossed, it doesn't matter to me.
How about the 73mm width frames, will it work with a couple of 2.5mm spacers? And I assume those are for 30mm spindles, how about 24mm ones, will you make those? Would you sell the shell without bearings so I can fit 24mm inner D bearings?
Did you test somehow if it really improve aligment of bearings? If there is some misaligment on frame this aluminium bend easly make everyrhing even worse. Thread work same as cone coupling, there is no way it will improve anything xD
Am I seeing something wrong? To me the threads on the bottom brackets are actually the wrong way around to self tighten. Right hand/ drive side should be right hand thread to self tighten unless it's normal to spin the pedals backwards.
I didn't understand this and questioned @Hambini on this as I had already ordered the BB and asked what to use when installing (thread-locker etc.), I have since found an article on it here: www.velonews.com/gear/technical-faq-are-bottom-bracket-threads-backward/ That explains how it works, I guess stuff like this is not meant for our tiny minds and should be left to the experts like Hambini. In summary it's JFM!
@@cshoey86 . I read the article and also had a look at www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html and that left me no wiser. I would bet my left nut that right hand thread will self tighten on the drive side. It's exactly the same thing as why pedals have left and right hand threads. My thoughts are that they are arse about face so that the old style ball and race style bearings don't lock up due to self tightening.
@@Alan_Hans__ The key to this is to make sure you can get your head around the bearing changing the direction of rotation. You pedalling forwards is trying to rotate the outer race of the bearing backwards. The outer race of the bearing is attached to the cup so it gets tighter as you pedal forwards.
@@Hambini . I'm stuffed if I can see how it is changing the direction of rotation. The inner edge of the ball is stationary with the point making contact on the crank side. The outer edge of the ball is stationary where it makes contact at the frame side. As you pedal clockwise the individual bearings rotate anticlockwise because the inner and outer edges are stationary. The race moves clockwise at a rate somewhere between the rpm of the crank as a speed determined by friction and the point of contact internally against the balls. Either my visualisation of what is happening is wrong or I am missing a force somewhere.
Hi there! I got a question... Am in need of 37mm pressfit cups for putting a hollowtech 24mm axle into a chromo 4130 bmx frame 68mm wide bb. Are there pressfit cups for? Or do i better get wider bearings since that also might be a solution to get the chain allingment strait? Keep Up doing the Good work and being critical and honest about "our" bike world 🌶️👍🏼🙏🏽
@Hambini What bearing would be inside an external cup, BSA square taper bottom bracket? I understand square taper cranks are 17mm in diameter so it would be 17mm ID, but I don't have calipers to measure the OD.
Jörg Thomsen there’s no such thing. BB30 requires a 68mm bearing stance, which is impossible with a BSA shell. Do you mean a 30mm spindle or BB386EVO like FSA or Rotor? The BB spec is called BSA 30.
@@404nobrakes You are correct. It should be a BSA to BB386 conversion (BSA30) for cranks like Rotor 3D+ or their new Alduh. There is no way to run a true BB30 crank like a Cannondale Hollowgram with the original 106/107mm axle in a BSA shell.
I am concerned that you have been following too much cycling advertising! The thin wall centre tube will not increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket or correct misalignment of the threaded shell. #dontbs
The radial clearance required to thread is circa 0.1mm , that means you could be 0.2mm out of parallel alignment. The centre piece has a clearance fit of far less than that. Therefore the alignment within the threads will be improved. As for improving stiffness, I can send you one to try and bend once assembled if you want to try it for yourself.
@@Hambini yes but when the thread is tightened the clearance is taken up and the thin aluminium tube does not have the stiffness to prevent this. The centre tube is significantly less stiff than the BB housing, testing independently is meaningless. As you know there is no substitute for a correctly toleranced housing. I hope you aren't practising for a job interview at a bike company. 😜
That's bollocks. In engineering practice, accurate alignment is by means of spigots or dowels. Nobody uses threads if they want good alignment. My BB does the same thing. Obviously you are entitled to your opinion and perhaps you should do a video about it so you can say everything you need to.
@@Hambini Yes but the spigot or dowel needs to have sufficient stiffness to not be displaced by the forces placed upon it. Putting one of these threaded BB's into a crappy housing like the Boardman frame you showed recently will not solve the poor alignment of the BB shell. Is it better than most? yes. Will it make a bad BB shell good? unlikely.
In the board man, this BB wouldn't even go in. This isn't designed to correct misalignment that is gross. It's designed to align within the capacity of the threads
Hello Hambini ! Could you do a quick video about Chris King ? I like nice parts but more than that , well tought of parts. I had a headset ck on a old titanium frame , perfect never had to touch it . Never Tried their bb or hubs. Because of the price here in Europe, and specific expensive tools. I get it you pay a little bit for the name etc. But they seem to have an intermediate solutions for their bearings between cups and cones and cartridge bearings. I've heard from ck fans and old time users that they need a bit more maintenance to last in the long time. And I don't see how they could be as good as skf ntn fag etc but you never know... Thanks in advance if that idea were to become reality .
Omg, self tighten??
Ha ha ha ha, idiot.
Clearly you don't understand the concept of reactive forces
Ever wondered, why it's the same with pedal threads, genius?
@@MrSuicycle I always leave pedals to self tighten with the minimum of tightening on installation. Otherwise they are a pain to get off.
(Read this in your nice voice because I'm not trying to be rude) Think about this 🤔 if you don't agree with Hambini then just clearly explain why he's wrong and why you're right. Hambini wouldn't have a channel if he called someone a wanker then asked us to like, sub, bell his five second video. People are interested in what he has to say because he'll call out a wanker then spend 45 minutes explaining in detail the design flaws and how it could be improved.
If you call someone an idiot then back it up with an explanation. If you don't think he's right I would love to hear an explanation. Trust me I love counter arguments it's how things get better.
If Hambini calls someone a wanker and doesn't explain why then he would seem like a dick. Because he explains himself he comes across as being fed up.
It looked counter-intuitive to me too, so I looked it up with Google, here is what I got:
Are bottom bracket threads backwards?
Dear Lennard,
The way the bottom bracket thread standard is, it would cause a bottom bracket cup to loosen when pedaling if a bottom bracket bearing gets too tight. It seems that if the drive-side is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side is left-hand, then the pedaling motion will not cause the cups to loosen. Did someone got it wrong originally or is there a good reason for it? Luckily bottom brackets are becoming threadless.
- Ned
Dear Ned,
Actually, the English standard bottom bracket threads are set up correctly. When the bearings are functioning properly, pedaling tightens the cups in. When the bearings are seized up, pedaling would loosen the cups.
If that’s not clear, then think about it for a moment. The drive-side cup is left-hand threaded, so if the crank were affixed to the cup like a wrench (as would happen if the bearings were seized up), pedaling forward would turn the cup clockwise, which would unscrew the left-hand-threaded cup. But if the bearing turns freely, then the spindle turning clockwise rolls the ball bearings along with it, and the outboard side of each ball turns the opposite direction of the inboard side of the ball. So, the free-rolling balls are tightening the cup in further as the rider pedals forward.
The inverse is of course true for the non-drive-side cup. And pedal threads behave the same way, even though the drive-side pedal is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side pedal is left-hand threaded.
― Lennard
Well, that was much less swearing than I expected 😅
Same here and feeling somewhat cheated.
Must be the new Tourettes medication.
@@colduncan1063 You do feel like you're getting ripped off :)
A little disappointed! Lol 🙂
It's evident there's no swearing because it was engineered properly ... No swearing required
Long time no see my friend. Missed you. Whatever is preventing you from making more vids don't bother. We will be right here.
@Gabriel Trainer. Perhaps the two of you should get a room? 🤔😳
Chris Voss and then upload the results :)
@@Lestalad1961 My wife is hotter than Hambini.
@@404nobrakes Besides being a christian I am from an era where a man could greet another without being called a homosexual. But no thanks I have an amazing wife just like Hambini.
@Gabriel Trainer. A four day old slice of toast is hotter than Hambini. Right Sachin? 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Never listen to this lad through headphones. Intro nearly killed me.
Welcome
School boy error! Spot the new boy. 😂
Newbie alert!
you grow to love it. now jus loop it :-)
my left ear enjoyed this video
*shifted the balance to the right and laughed 🤣
Another Hambini video with no swearing. I'm scared and confused!
There is no swearing because there is nothing "shite" going on in this video
You can't swear when engineering perfection is presented in front of you.
@@Hambini I beg to differ. It's fucking marvelous 😉
@@Hambini Is this BB already sold out?
@@JMcLeodKC711 yes. It's on back order
The great Hambini is a magician. He has a real job, designs bike parts, and runs a TH-cam channel all at the same time.
Excellent - no swearing. I'm so impressed I might buy them when my bearings are shot
Fantastic! Now I know how to install the part that will never be in stock! ;)
Righty tighty, lefty tighty. Got it.
Instructions unclear dick stuck in frame
It's still righty tighty just viewed from the other side :)
righty mighty, lefty hefty
perfect timing for that new tarmac sl7!
it's been a while.
i thought u were sick.
i like ur vid, it's like Ramsay vids but it's about bicycle.
Nice job as usual. We are waiting for the bsa 73mm BB 🙏
I’m watching, commenting, and leaving a like for the algorithm
Hi Hambini, Great to know what kind of tools need to prepare, installation steps and the maintenance procedures on your bsa bottom bracket, nice video!
Six minutes in, grease everywhere, "you should probably wear gloves" 🤣
you've won me over with this. I'm saving the video to come back to it for my future bike build
thanks for this. done it a million times but i always learn more watching your in depth explanations. Eg i always just installed drive side first and then non. if i encounter a bike with poor alignment and wasn't paying attention that could be disastrous
I love finely engineered products. That's one of my draws to cycling. Where else can you go, where the comments are almost as entertaining as the main video content. "almost"
Love it Hambini! Thing of absolute beauty. So happy to see you with another video.
bottom bracket for life , super impressed ,looking forward to the next sunday roast ,keep up the good work !
Ready for the SL7 Tarmac 😂
I bought a Hambini BB for my BBright bike, and it's fantastic. I definitely want one of these for my older Cervelo.
Beautiful piece. I also have an older Look frame that "bends" under load in very step climbs, would love it to have your bottom bracket.
I've gotten a lot of pushback by bike store managers on mentioning your bottom brackets. They know you and your channel, they keep pushing to buy big-brand BBs instead...from them, of course 😁
If the bottom bracket threads "inevitibly" get seized, why not use a good anti seize compound instead of grease?
Antiseize if your using ally in a titanium or steel frame isn’t it?
@RollinRat you're someone I wish I could learn from first hand. So much knowledge
@RollinRat Hello, for hollowtech II crank being installed on a Pinarello ITA do you recommend tightening by hand or torquing to 40nm spec? Also, I notice some mechanics will put grease on the BB threads before installing, but Shimano already have blue loctite on their BB threads. Would you just install it straight up?
Nice Work Hambini! Enjoy your videos!
Pedaling forward could loosen the BB if not fully tightened as you tightened the BB while "pedaling" backwards, same with the pedals I believe the reason for the reverse threads is that BB's and pedals don't become too tight after time. am I misunderstanding??
Thanks , a new 5yr vid. I have been waiting. When will Hambini threaded BB's be available in the shop?
HamBB. Make it stick.
LIke it.
genius, ez branding for hambini, u should ask for a cut
@@olo398 I get a cut every time Hambini exposes a low quality manufacturer and makes higher quality products for me to purchase. This saves me money in the long run.
Oh I like know where I'm coming for next BB well done hambini
Looks like the best bb with the least friction ever. At least compared with your other videos. However, I will take a look at your website and order one BSA bb for my bike
I was thinking about the return to threaded BBs that has started with the likes of Trek. They have gone all the way back to an aluminium tube bonded into the BB that cups thread into. Why didn't they make a aluminium tube that bearings can press directly into, essentially like Hambini's BB here and just bond it into the BB shell?
This one is made to replace a HollowTechII BB so the bearings are external to the frame. If someone was designing from scratch they might make it a single part where the external surface is a plain tube and just have internal ridges that the bearings press against. It could be as wide as a current pressfit BB and whatever diameter the frame allows. Is any more required than that?
Could you make a 30mm spindle version of this please?
Hambini...Prince of the Princess blanket!
I was sold until i saw the price :)
Real nice BB tho !
Yup. I was thinking £50-ish. Out by £200. That being said if my best bike was a £5000 Specialized with threaded BB then I’d definitely get one.
@@machohogan Yep me too.
original costs ... 10x less or even less ;-( I am not sure this one is 10-12 times better - with all due respect to @Hambini of course
much more work than a 1 piece press fit, for sure
people miss that this is not about the quality of the bearings, but ensuring their aligment and the associated marginal gains.
12 times better than dura ace? surely not, more like 3 watts
Nice BB and bike.
Sorry for not sending the badly/well designed YST BB I said I was going to send.. will do it this week.
Neat BB. Turns a threaded BB into a superior press fit BB😂
Hambini has some Winspace hyper wheels! So a review on these wheels at all?
coming soon.
the more i watch hambini the more i imagine him cringing at how we install bearings at my work (i am a junior machinist/fitter and turner)
since 90% of the time we just tap the bearings in place with a brass drift and a smol hammer
@RollinRat lol yeah we use a brass or copper drif 90% of the time to its not steel on steel and doesnt cause mutch harm
Were a small 3 man shop we dont have ovens and nitrogen of a huge ass press that can fit any stroke/ diameter
Hey Hambini, would this work with a mtb 73mm application, or are you planning this version by any chance? Cheers
BSA30 73mm would be quite nice... :)
It will work with a 73mm BB, you just need to give him £35 for a 50p spacer.
It will work but you won't get the beenefit of the alignment. The centre section will be 5mm too short.
Newer MTB BB's are using a smaller diameter bearing (Most come with a plastic adaptor to go into the BB tool used in the video to fill the space between the tool and the new smaller BB cups - interestingly it won't fit the 1/2" drive socket I got for the original size because there's a lot less clearance between the inner diameter of the tool and the outer diameter of the BB cup). As a result, it's possible that some of the newer cranks are making use of the freed up space, so they won't fit over a bigger BB cup. I've not put enough miles on the smaller size BB's yet (I've only worn out 2 of them) to have a feel for whether they're as durable as the older ones, but I am getting some serious creaking on the one fitted to one of my bikes under high torque, which hasn't happened with the previous 2 BB's in that frame before, so provisionally I'm falling towards less durable.
@@Hambini Maybe increase the overlap on the non drive side so it suits both widths?
The frames bottom bracket shell will drive the alignment, the tight fitting 2 part sleeve is not stiff enough to overcome bad bottom bracket shell geometry.
It won't install if it is too bad
@@Hambini I just do not see how it will do anything at all. That thin wall tube won't be stiff enough to fight any kind of misalignment.
@@brianbob7514 it's not designed to realign it. It's designed to align it within the threads.
@@Hambini I guess it might be able to do that. You do any testing to see if it actually works? Threaded interfaces do have clearance so theoretically this could align the two sides within that slop. From a practical standpoint I would be suspicious of it doing much, hopefully it does ;-)
Ya the facing/parallelism will drive the final alignment. Which is something i hope all these new carbon bikes with threaded bb shells realise!
Value wise, that BB would get you 176.6 portions of mushroom bhaji from the Kashmir in Bradford.
You'll climb better out of Bradford over to Shipley or Keighley with the bb as opposed to the bhaji.
@@markrushton1516 I'm living over in Norway now and know exactly what you mean. Could still murder a meal or 176.6 from the Kashmir though :D
Have a few veg dhals too and you may have a gas powered bike with a BB that's stiff as owt
Ultratorque cups are crap. There's no flange on the inside of the splines so the tool slips off, if you're not super vigilant, and they get messed up by the harder steel of the tool. Do you make any campy replacements?
Hey Mumbai, next time you are installing a BB take a small file or 80 grit sand paper to that "paint over-spray" rim area on the frame prior to install.
Very nice BB... although I am not going to pay $270 to replace the Dura Ace BB in my bike that works fine...
it's a bit off, but have you had tolerance issues with Bianchis?
what year is it? So nostalgic, a retro Hambini video here
Nice job, black looks good. I recognize the wheels :) Got to get my hands on some...
They are very very fast. I'm going to do a dedicated review on them. Fastest wheels of that depth.
@@Hambini Even with external spoke nipples? Is that last single watt of aero savings not attractive enough?
Edit: are we going to ignore the fact that they come with ceramic bearings, and Hambini is still touting them as the "lick"? XD
Hambini im pestering joe to find me a set for a gander. Will have to bolt ye olde discy breaks to them tho.
name please. :)
@@wsnx_ I think they want to keep it secret until a certain date. At least I'm not going to be the one to spoil it.
Hey hambini I had an 2008 fsa gossamer 2x10 crank and the steel shaft broke clean off from the left side ,and I had a bad crash.the preload was set properly with a torque tool.
My Question is this: can the shaft fail like that?.Thanks in advance.
is This Bottom bracket made from Superlight for £247.20?
Hi, I would like to buy a 68mm stand, when will it be available?
Hi, is the self tightening ok for other bb? I looks like it’s snug but definitely not 40nm. Can you explain? I’d like to save money and not buy this torque wrench. Thank you!
Hello! If my bike has a misalignment. Is it still usable?
even Hambini is on threaded bb marketing trend.
I like the design detail in ur BB. would be nice if there was a stockist.
Couldn’t you make a thread-together bsa bb? Like screw the drive side and then screw the nds in both the bb shell and the drive side?
I wish this product was available 2 months ago. I got some Rotor BSA cups, removed the cheap bearings and installed some nice Hambini NTN 6806 bearings (386EVO crank on BB30 shell). Which got me thinking, will the removal and installation of bearings eventually wear the fit in the cups?
Tony Diez probably. It’s alloy vs hardened steel. But would you rather wear out a $250 BB (which includes bearings) or your $3000 frame? The Hambini approach is so much better than any other BB implementation that it kind of boggles the mind. How is this not the industry standard
It could psychosis brought on by lockdown, but didn't you procure a nice bit of Italian crank hardware for the Look aero build?
As your unit doesnt have O-ring seals like Shimano would 'boating grease' be more appropriate as water often gathers and condensates in BBs?
Hi Mr. Hambini. Why don't you have options to ship to Brazil? Thanks,
Francisco
Hi Hambini. Could you explain how DS LH thread and NDS RH thread gets to be self tightening? On the surface this seems counter-intuitive. What happens in the bb when the spindle/crankset spins in the direction of unthreading? I think all mechanics have seen cups with tight bearings that has worked them selves out and jammed under the increasing preload.. Oh. I think I've just answered my own question. The outer race wants to spin in the opposite direction under normal load?
For £250 the female sleeve needs to be longer, preferably as long as needed to thread over the length of the male sleeve.
Otherwise, looks like a BSA30 with good bearings and adaptors for 24mm shimano cranks.
Very nice work and affordable.
@hambini Have a look at the new enve tyres in your Sunday roundup
Is it recommended to put grease on the crank spindle? Thanks
Nice work Hambini. Hey I’ve got a video idea for you. The new rapide clx wheelset from Roval. 35mm external width in the front wheel with 26c tyres. Love to get the real story on those aerodynamics 😳. Not sure what the best forum or location would be to make the request so I’ve put it here.
anything for campag?
I have been looking at icancycling's frame set. but was wondering how they stack up to the likes of yoeleo frames
Do you make Italian threaded bottom bracket 36 x 24?
Yes
If you wanted to only use bearings without a seal, could you make a replacement dust cap that has an o-ring?
@ hambini - loving your vids and bespoke engineering insight. checking to see if you have any BBs that will interface to a 2020 Ibis Ripmo AF frame and Shimano XT groupset? believe the BB is threaded.
first time full suspension rider transitioning from a vintage hard tail mtb. still learning the ropes and will be doing a full build. planning to buy your BB install tool.
appreciate your tech consult. keep rock’n 🔥!
Somewhere or another I got a socket for doing that. I have ceased tightening British threaded BB's beyond snug since they self tighten anyway. Why don't you simply use the normal bearing removal tool? If you are pulling it out you are replacing it so it isn't as if you have to worry about damaging the cage.
You need the extractor. A normal bearing tool won't fit
@@Hambini - From Trek I got one of those split aluminum tools that was smaller than the 24 mm shaft diameter of the Shimano and would push through. Granted unlike your extractor it seems crude but as I said, since that bearing is getting tossed, it doesn't matter to me.
How about the 73mm width frames, will it work with a couple of 2.5mm spacers?
And I assume those are for 30mm spindles, how about 24mm ones, will you make those?
Would you sell the shell without bearings so I can fit 24mm inner D bearings?
He got the grease everywhere. Good thing he didn't advise anti-seize.
I wonder if I can use this on my brompton
Did you test somehow if it really improve aligment of bearings? If there is some misaligment on frame this aluminium bend easly make everyrhing even worse. Thread work same as cone coupling, there is no way it will improve anything xD
Am I seeing something wrong? To me the threads on the bottom brackets are actually the wrong way around to self tighten. Right hand/ drive side should be right hand thread to self tighten unless it's normal to spin the pedals backwards.
I didn't understand this and questioned @Hambini on this as I had already ordered the BB and asked what to use when installing (thread-locker etc.), I have since found an article on it here: www.velonews.com/gear/technical-faq-are-bottom-bracket-threads-backward/
That explains how it works, I guess stuff like this is not meant for our tiny minds and should be left to the experts like Hambini.
In summary it's JFM!
@@cshoey86 . I read the article and also had a look at www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html and that left me no wiser. I would bet my left nut that right hand thread will self tighten on the drive side. It's exactly the same thing as why pedals have left and right hand threads. My thoughts are that they are arse about face so that the old style ball and race style bearings don't lock up due to self tightening.
@@Alan_Hans__ The key to this is to make sure you can get your head around the bearing changing the direction of rotation. You pedalling forwards is trying to rotate the outer race of the bearing backwards. The outer race of the bearing is attached to the cup so it gets tighter as you pedal forwards.
@@Hambini . I'm stuffed if I can see how it is changing the direction of rotation. The inner edge of the ball is stationary with the point making contact on the crank side. The outer edge of the ball is stationary where it makes contact at the frame side. As you pedal clockwise the individual bearings rotate anticlockwise because the inner and outer edges are stationary. The race moves clockwise at a rate somewhere between the rpm of the crank as a speed determined by friction and the point of contact internally against the balls. Either my visualisation of what is happening is wrong or I am missing a force somewhere.
Hi there!
I got a question...
Am in need of 37mm pressfit cups for putting a hollowtech 24mm axle into a chromo 4130 bmx frame 68mm wide bb.
Are there pressfit cups for?
Or do i better get wider bearings since that also might be a solution to get the chain allingment strait?
Keep Up doing the Good work and being critical and honest about "our" bike world 🌶️👍🏼🙏🏽
Nearly as smooth as my crank👍
@Hambini
What bearing would be inside an external cup, BSA square taper bottom bracket? I understand square taper cranks are 17mm in diameter so it would be 17mm ID, but I don't have calipers to measure the OD.
How about press fit threaded bottom bracket Mr.Hambini ?
Not even a goodbye at the end either!!
No reaming, no farewell
And thats the way it should be!
Any plans to make a DUB BSA BB? I've gone through about 2 per year of Giga xshite Pipe and now dub as well. Bike is a Specialized Tarmac SL5 Expert DA
At this moment, I'm afraid not
@@Hambini Alright, no worries. Really appreciate the reply and how informative your content is, especially all coming from a 5-year old!
@@th0m never fear BSA to DUB is now available!
not a fan of your rants but this bb looks very well made. maby this will replace my chris king bb in the future
would you like to do a bsa30 or bsa dub bb? bsa30 with dub sleeve would be awsome for more future options
CK BBs hardly ever wear out. Even then you can service them. Consumerism is killing us.
I didn't know you made BSA bottom bracket?!!
The way you are speaking about your bearing removal tools sounds like they come with the bottom bracket, but I assume they don't? Can you clarify?
they are extra.
Hambini Any ETAs for when the bearing removal tool be available to order again?
Love your work!
Will you be making one for BSA to BB30 conversions too?
Jörg Thomsen there’s no such thing. BB30 requires a 68mm bearing stance, which is impossible with a BSA shell. Do you mean a 30mm spindle or BB386EVO like FSA or Rotor? The BB spec is called BSA 30.
@@404nobrakes You are correct. It should be a BSA to BB386 conversion (BSA30) for cranks like Rotor 3D+ or their new Alduh. There is no way to run a true BB30 crank like a Cannondale Hollowgram with the original 106/107mm axle in a BSA shell.
Looks great. Is there enough clearance under the sleeve to allow internal fully-housed brake/shift cables to pass under?
(T47 when?)
It's the same size as an OEM Shimano
Same here, you need to make a T47 so I can put it on my bike. Please!!
Do you not grease your crankset axle?
Elephant in the room! Will there be a GXP version?
Whens the next roasting?? Been too long.
I like it.
I am concerned that you have been following too much cycling advertising! The thin wall centre tube will not increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket or correct misalignment of the threaded shell. #dontbs
The radial clearance required to thread is circa 0.1mm , that means you could be 0.2mm out of parallel alignment. The centre piece has a clearance fit of far less than that. Therefore the alignment within the threads will be improved.
As for improving stiffness, I can send you one to try and bend once assembled if you want to try it for yourself.
@@Hambini yes but when the thread is tightened the clearance is taken up and the thin aluminium tube does not have the stiffness to prevent this. The centre tube is significantly less stiff than the BB housing, testing independently is meaningless. As you know there is no substitute for a correctly toleranced housing. I hope you aren't practising for a job interview at a bike company. 😜
That's bollocks. In engineering practice, accurate alignment is by means of spigots or dowels. Nobody uses threads if they want good alignment. My BB does the same thing.
Obviously you are entitled to your opinion and perhaps you should do a video about it so you can say everything you need to.
@@Hambini Yes but the spigot or dowel needs to have sufficient stiffness to not be displaced by the forces placed upon it.
Putting one of these threaded BB's into a crappy housing like the Boardman frame you showed recently will not solve the poor alignment of the BB shell.
Is it better than most? yes. Will it make a bad BB shell good? unlikely.
In the board man, this BB wouldn't even go in. This isn't designed to correct misalignment that is gross. It's designed to align within the capacity of the threads
But do they come in go faster red?
will this BB fit a SL6 SWorks ?
I don't think that one is threaded so I don't think so
I'm missing my Sunday Roast, when are you bringing it back?
@Hambini which brand hex keys do you recommend
facom
Wera are better and are designed not to slip inside the hexagon
@@zzzzz1102 bought Wera and would agree with you, great set of tools
@@Hambini which ones, there seems to be a large variation in price
Hey Hambini, for people with GXP cranksets (eye rolls), can you offer a shim to reduce the I.D. of the NDS bearing to 22mm like hope do?
they won't fit inside this BB i'm afraid.
Hello Hambini ! Could you do a quick video about Chris King ? I like nice parts but more than that , well tought of parts. I had a headset ck on a old titanium frame , perfect never had to touch it . Never Tried their bb or hubs. Because of the price here in Europe, and specific expensive tools. I get it you pay a little bit for the name etc. But they seem to have an intermediate solutions for their bearings between cups and cones and cartridge bearings. I've heard from ck fans and old time users that they need a bit more maintenance to last in the long time. And I don't see how they could be as good as skf ntn fag etc but you never know... Thanks in advance if that idea were to become reality .