How to inspect your junk yard LS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2020
- Checking bearing tolerances:
• How to rebuild LS LM7
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That “junkyard” engine u picked up gonna be epic!
You two are awesome at demonstrating and teaching those who don't know, and refreshing those of us who do, on what to do, and what to look for. Love the honesty. New subscriber...
Glad you got something out of it.
For some reason I missed all the videos over the last 6months or so...glad they popped up, always enjoy Stu
nice, now you get to have a mini marathon!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! SOMETHING TO CONSIDER FOR ANY JUNKYARD BUILDS!!! GREAT VIDEO AND I LEARNED SO MUCH.
thanks for the tips and tricks on checking out a salvaged engine. Very helpful.
I love the lessons on what is and isn’t an “LS” engine. You made it so simple. Most guys go off of valve train geometry, not off RPO code.
This was just the video I was looking for
Awesome video!
Nice! Great info!
Great video
Thomas ain't scared. Hold my beer!!.
Here before thousands
"It's very similar to LS architecture"
Uh... No.... It's exactly the same, but with a stronger iron block.
Exactly. He had me laughing bad on that one. No clue. They are all 6 bolt main motors with the main caps mounted that basically become the block structure 🤦♂️🤣🤣
If it was an LS motor, it would be called LS, not LQ. The differences are minor, but they are still the difference. LS = LS, LQ=LQ. Similar, yes, Same, no.
@@Sgt.Slides yoo that’s what I tell my homies too
First off I would have tore it down in the yard before I bought it to check the bottom end second off how about maby do some real homework so you know what the internals are before you do any real work I mean if your looking for gen 4 internals there's no need to tear it down hoping it's what you want you should be able to know what internals are there from what it came out of the year and model sorry but this would have been a hard pass for me and I can't help but laugh case your tearing it down upside down letting all the fluids drain not into an oil pan but into your crankshaft into your camshaft into the valves into the heads be smart turn it upright and disassemble it like you know what your doing and pick up your fucking bolts and mess just throwing shit around like your not gonna have to pick it up later before daddy yells at you act like you got some sense
no need to plasti gauge stock bearings that are decades old! you already know the engine runs great if it's got 150,000 mileson it! Just pull the caps and check for wear, no copper or scoring then send it!
Is that really all i need to look for? I got a l92 6.2 that im going to open up and inspect
His bougie friend Justin must have a big bank account. I'd rather have a iron 6.0 than aluminum 5.7 that has been beat to shit and cost 3 time's more
Subbed
Thank you!
TIG WELDER FEARS NO BROKEN STUD OR TAP
This is a old video,and I must b bored.I have bought quite a few used ls and when I take the pan off,I never turn it upside down.Why would u want all that gunk,going through the bottom end.I k u say we r rebuilding it,right? First thing I learned the hard way,don't go farther than u need to.If it's not broke,don't fix it.
When you open them up, they loose all of their magic
That’s what my dad told me.
What year model did you pull the engine out of
I wonder when gm switched cam bearings ,because vortec engines I have seen over 200k looked new but ls engines bam always cam bearing ware !
It was laying in the oil pan, and when you turned it upside down it dripped on the pump pick up, an the plate
Looks like there's a crack in the block right in line where the number one cam bearing is showing copper at about 14:30 if you pause at 14:32 you can actually see where oil is coming from the bottom of the crack which is in line with the oiling hole on the cam bearing which would be a weak point in the casting! You can also see a slight oil stain on the thrust plate surface where the crack is but not visible to the naked eye! Who needs magnaflux?!?! Lol
yikes dude!!!! W T F!!!!!!!
Seriously if you pause at 14:20 you can clearly see the crack! And it's perfectly in line with the cam bearing oil galley hole!
You can also see it at 14:14
i see it!
GM has a TSB in relationship to cam bearing in gen IV engine especially when VVT equipped
Basically they wear premature and go out of round and possibly spin that causes loss of oil pressure and misdirection of the camshaft compounded by DOD, VVT, and stronger valve spring for bigger cams.
Do you do any component replacement before you swap the engine into something? I like to watch Richard Holdner, John Doc videos on TH-cam since they do LS junkyard engine builds and swaps. I'm not entirely sure that they always show the steps involved from the junkyard to the build/engine dyno.
there are always things you SHOULD do but that's a slippery slope and your budget can get unreasonable very quickly. At a minimum, I would pull the heads, buy new lifters, and headgaskets... but once you do thit, you might as well do the timing chain, then might as well do the oil pump and gusset the pickup tube, oh, and now you'll need an oil pan gasket and cam thrust plate, now you're $500 or $600 into your refresh. You're not going to take all that apart and not put a cam in it right? $600 for your cam kit, and $300 to get your springs installed. might as well do valve seals while you're in there, then you SHOULD do cam bearings, weather you replaced the cam or not, but what no one tells you is that cam bearings will end up causing you to do an entire bottom end rebuild and machining, now you're almost $4000 in. You don't really have to do any of that stuff, you could just run it. get what i'm saying?
I really care about it because I'm not a grease monkey so its to know. Just because you don't want to call it something doesn't mean its not that. You should state clearer what car that motor goes in and not said its not an type of motor when it is one. People who want to buy parts need to know this information.
the difference between LS and non LS motors isn't the subject matter of this video. They are the same architecture and most parts can be swapped between them, the biggest difference being that the LS motors are aluminum, not iron. any other information you get can most likely apply to both LS and Non LS motors.
Lmao Baby Batter @ 7:40
How much was it from the yard
in the bay no more than 250
Would you recommend replacing the rear main seal on a LM7 w/93k?
better to replace the seal while it's right in front of you than wait till it's in the car leaking.
Where'd you learn about engines, cars, and ls motors
just a lot of reading and first hand working on them myself.
They are actually better than a Ls motor
"Better" is subjective. The Aluminum LS is 100 lbs lighter and cools faster, and if you're making less than 1500 HP, there's no advantages of using a heavy iron block. I don't know anyone making 1500hp.
Problem is, something like 80% of people only change their every 20k miles. The other 20% change the oil on time. So maybe you're buying a wore out engine, and the junkyard doesn't give a rip. If you could see the cross hatch was all still there and verify the rings were good, sure. If it was lower mileage. Maybe you can, as long as you pay the junkyard another $500.
What's a good year to look for in the salvage yard for a 5.3 LS and a 6.2 LS truck engine?
year doesn't really matter, it's the miles and condition its in that matter. You just need to know if you have a gen 3 or gen 4 because the electronics are slightly different. Gen 4's are rare to come across though.
@@Sgt.Slides (Thanks)
Gen 3 small block...ls... do you mean the ls1 ? Only issue I knew about the ls1 was the piston slap.
The LS1 is a gen3 small block, it was the first gen3 small block, however, there were other variants including the lq4 featured in this video. Towards the late years of the gen 3 motors, there was some crossover where you could find them equipped with gen 4 parts. Thomas prefers a motor with Gen 4 internals, which are a bit stronger, but if you arent trying to make 1100 hp on a junkyard motor, i dont think the gen 4 parts are such a big deal, that's my opinion. Your best bet is to do the research and see what version suits your goals best.
@@Sgt.Slides Thought he was just saying how they weren’t good motors, or had some underlying issue he wanted to stay away from. Other than staying cheep and wanting the best stock internals then... guess that’s a valid concern on his end. Best version that suits me is the gen 2 small block. Lol
@@theredwedge9446 just his preference and opinion. Gen 4 is better, but wouldn't stop me from buying a gen3.
Spell check at the 6:10 mark. lol
Why does he not want gen 3 internals?
Gen 4 stuff is better and that's what he wants. To me, personally, it does not make a difference. Everyone has their preference. Given the choice, I'd choose gen 4 stuff, but gen 3 tech is not a deal breaker for me.
I know it’s 3 years later…but any info on the pliers. I’ve listened several times and can’t tell how to locate them. TIA
Look Up "Parrot Jaw Pliers" on Amazon. The 2nd one up should be the blue handle ones for $19.90. I would post a link but youtube tends to block comments with links.
@@Sgt.Slides found em! Many thanks!
Shit looks like dijon mustard 4:20
LQ4 and LQ9 are Gen 3 I thought?
You're actually correct. I think we made a mistake in what we were looking for. Thomas needs a gen4 engine to swap into his m3. Besides that, it's been too long since this actual conversation for me to remember just what we were looking for in this motor.
Do your self a favor and take the pan off before you turn it over and dump all the crap down inside.
How much do junk yard LS go for?
prices are always changing, depends who you get them from, lately they run about $1000
@@Sgt.Slides wow that’s cheap! Wish I can get a deal like that. Here in cali they want 2k for a 5.7 with no accessories
Just got an LQ9 for $850 in OK
@@MaXiMu5_ junk yard is currently charging $700 to pull it yourself. Not really worth it to pull one yourself anymore.
@@malc1012 Cali is already the wrong state for a car enthusiast.
yet again im waiiiiiiiting for you to get to the POINT! poor youtube servers full of ppl talking all day long when we wanna LEARN sth! sheesh. rant over. prev guy spent 20 minutes showing nothing..
pay attention, the info starts as soon as the intro ends. this is all relevant info.
@@Sgt.Slides Naw man, dude narrating should stop tryin to be funny - he's not- and talking about "muh sludge" for 10 minutes was giving me a headache, and "relevant info" would be just telling people that its the LQ4s from 2004-2007 that are the ones with the LS2 style rods, no need to open it up like a treasure chest to see, just go by the year of the vehicle you yanked it from.
I need that motor you like to sell it? God will you respond with yes.
i haven't listed it, but it's for sale now, are you interested? Are you in Maryland? Msg my instagram @Sgt.Slides
It’s a long block not small block
Small block motor by cubic inches, longblock by description (block with heads no accessories). I think you're getting short block and small block confused
Camera man sucks.! Stop pointing camera away from the engine while he’s pointing at stuff on it.
We dont need 1 minute of gheyt drifting intro.
yes you do
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! SOMETHING TO CONSIDER FOR ANY JUNKYARD BUILDS!!! GREAT VIDEO AND I LEARNED SO MUCH.
awesome, glad it helped.