A Turners Guide to Why and How to Use a Tenon
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Mike Peace expains why tenons are a good idea and demonstrates how to Turn A Perfect Chuck Tenon for your chuck jaws to safely hold your woodturning project.
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00:00 Introduction
00:10 Problem solving
01:50 Parallel vs Dovetail
03:00 Nova, Record Power and Sorby standard jaws
06:40 Dovetail details
08:08 Making a tenon on a bowl
12:55 Tenon angle and size
15:50 Tenon for a spindle
18:55 Large spindle tenons - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great video. I like the point about following manufacturer's recommendation. I appreciate the point about the Teknatool\RP standard jaws. I have been struggling trying to cut a profile to match that little hawkbill internal lip instead of the straight profile recommended. Maybe I need to do more reading of manuals and less skimming. 🤔😜 Thanks for video. Keep em coming
You and lots of other Nova and RP chuck owners! 👊😉
Thanks Mike, your style of teaching always helps a lot. 👌
Glad to hear that!
Liked this video and had never thought what the "correct" angle was for my Nova 50mm chuck. When I look it up it simple says "Special NOVA dovetail profile" No mention of angle.
I have serrated oneway jaws, and yes sometimes they do push the piece away from the shoulder creating a small gap. I’ve learned to really pay close attention and adjust accordingly to avoid this situation. Great video Mike.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I thought it was me but with yours and Mike’s information will help make better tenons and seat them properly.
Hey Mike, it was great meeting you in person at Chattanooga. Love you channel.
Hey, thanks!
Thanks for the info Mike.
You bet
Thank you Mike. This video is great help.
Glad it was helpful!
The angle for dovetails ! Didn’t know they have different ones , always informative! Thank you
You bet!
Thanks Mike for another informative video. You always give great advice in an easy to understand manner.
Thanks for watching!
Thank You!
Welcome!
Excellent, informative video. Worth a like and a Share! Thanks Mike!!!
Much appreciated!
Another helpful video. Hadn’t thought of the fact that the deeper serrated jaws will help reduce vibration on longer turnings. That was very helpful to me
It is a feature I rarely use as I do not do much spindle work that extends out 6" or more.
Your 8:00 example is why I had a bowl eject and hit me in the shoulder the other day.
Sometime I learn best from my mistakes!
Great video of things often overlooked. Liked sharpening the sides of the badan tool, I knew it but just was not doing it. I will now champer the edge of my tenons as well. I need deeper jaws for my very large projects. Your time in doing research of different jaws AND showing them is appreciated. I will press every new member of our turning club subscribe to your channel and insist they see this video. It is SO important!
Thanks, Ken. I apprecitate the video sharing.
Thanks for the info Mike. Good tip about honing the sides of the cut off tool. I use both tenons and mortices depending on the size of my piece. A comment I would like to make ( from another turner). Size the tenon to fit your jaws. As in.. 50mm jaws. make the tenon 52mm so that there is as much surface area of the jaw contacting the wood surface. As little a gap as possible. I hope you understand my explanation.
Great tip! I meant to mention this but overlooked it.
To me tenons and mortises are six of one, half a dozen of the other. Personally I like mortises since the bottom of the bowl is basically finished and then flip around to hollow out. Whereas with tenons, you turn the bottom with a tenon, turn it around to hollow out, then flip once again to cut off the tenon with a jam Chuck or Longworth type Chuck. It creates one more step in turning a bowl.
Good points. Both have their pros and cons. The key is turning them properly.
Hey Mike, Great video. Thank you. I have the PSI Barracuda 2 chuck and it uses the parallel tenon. It took quite a bit of trial and error to find what works best for it. I found for the 2 inch jaws it needs to be 7/16's deep and 2 1/8 across. Those seem to be the best numbers. the 7/16's is 1/16 short of bottoming out and the 2 1/8 allows the serrated jaws to bite in a bit and still tighten down completely just before closing all the way down. I have never used the larger 3 inch jaws but I am sure the 7/16's would be the same. It seems to me that you have to know your set of jaws and chuck almost intimately to always have a good grip. Even so if I get a bad catch I immediately stop the lathe and check to make sure my chuck remains solid. Oh as an after thought I have also found (from extensive testing) that if the depth is even slightly too long (almost on the bottom or a bit too short the jaws have a tendency to pull away from the shoulder leaving a often very slight gap. Thanks again. Yall have a wonderful day.
Thanks for sharing. Never used a Barricuda.
There are valid reasons for each method. And each can fail for a number of reasons. One or two failures may not be significant. Multiple failures means the type (tenon or mortice) was machined improperly for the chuck jaws or the wood has a flaw. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
True
Thanks Mike, Sill learning from you. I made the bad assumption that your previous "Making a Chuck Recess Tool" video applied to recesses and tenons. oops. I guess I made an umption out of myself and should have read that tiny print paper that came with my Nova chucks (if I can find the english part of it lol)
Thanks for what you do! But I got a question...you use a Dremel tip to do embellishments, now I know you made it, is there a video or parts list for that?
Watch this and check the show notes under the description th-cam.com/video/27QSh-_-Q-A/w-d-xo.html
Mike, I've been turning for almost 2 years and have appreciated the knowledge you share. Its occured to me while you were showing the log, that you'd be left with the pith in at least part of the finished work. Hetes my request...can you show options and ways of working so that the remains of the pith don't cause cracking issues. Thanks again.
Thanks for that suggestion!
Definitely lost a few bowls when I was first starting out due to not having my tenons shaped right or having them being to long lol. I had my first segmented bowl come off the chuck a few times because the tenon that I had glued on the bottom had parallel sides when it was supposed to be a dovetail and also it was almost twice as long as my chuck jaws lol.
Sometimes what does not kill us makes us stronger, LOL!
I saw Richard Raffen do a bowl demo - when the tenon-mounted blank flew off the chuck. So I don't feel bad when it happens to me!
It happens to all of us doesn't it?🙃
Learned several things that will allow me to make better tenons, Thanks! QQ: When I rough turn a bowl blank the wood at times is very wet and it is difficult to get an evenly flat surface for the chuck to rest upon, torn or stringy end grain, even with sharp tools. Maybe for twice turned bowl it is not as critical but I have experienced the wobble into a turning when it was true for most of the previous cuts. I think I need to retighten the chuck more often as well. Can you tighten too much?
I think you can overtighten. I cannot easily describe where one goes from snug to overly compressing the wood and risk shearing off the tenon.
Hi Mike,
I like to make ( If I can ) a recess instead of a tenon. I realize a recess is inherently less secure than a tenon , as the pressure applied by the chuck to grip can separate the blank being turned from outward pressure of the chuck. I have yet to have this happen as I have been turning Solid stock gently, not aggressively. I like the recess vs. the tenon on certain projects cause I can leave as is or square off the lip easily for the finished product. Can you comment on when to use a tenon vs a recess? Thanks ET
I always use a recess for platters.
I quit using tenons on bowls a long time ago. I've had too many tenons shear off due to micro cracks or ring shake than went unnoticed.
We all have experiences valid to us. I have had only a couple of tenons shear off. Perhaps a better match to chuck jaw profile? Perhaps not overtightening? Perhaps too small a tenon for the bowl size? Perhaps never turning a blank without close inspection and never turning a blank with ring shakes. If I sheared off a bunch I would probably avoid tenons as well.
As a beginner, I favor the recess for my small bowl turning. My recess isn’t very deep. I don’t see it makes any significant difference. I can leave it as is or smooth it out using cole jaws.
Thanks for sharing!
Mike
Still not sure how deep for a tenon ?
G3 2” jaws.
I’m guessing 3/8?
Mine are usually about 1/4".
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Thanks Mike!
KB
Im very surprised so many veteran turners directly advocate against what the manufacturer says regarding creating a dovetail angle. I wonder why so many do so?? Maybe they just parrot what each other say? I think i remember a few saying it creates more surface area for the jaws to grip and reduces vibration. Do you still agree with the manufacturer on this? Or are there certain situations where you do create a tenon with a dovetail such as if the bowl is larger?
I advocate making a dovetail if the jaws have a dovetail. And not making a dovetail if the jaws do not have a dovetail. It is that simple. There are times when you can get away with doing something wrong and getting away with it, especially on smaller projects. The problems I occasionally are some instructors and students in a class with chucks they are unfamiliar with that do not have a dovetail. Their personal chucks may all have dovetails and they do not recognize they are using something different. Use larger jaws on larger projects.
I prefer tenons over mortises because I've had more bowls split or fly off with a mortise than I have with a tenon. Shouldn't have to say it but, read your owners manual!
Thanks for sharing.