It’s really interesting to watch a master and all your solutions to the problems you run into. Your depth of knowledge is quite the wellspring for me to learn from. Thank you!
Many thanks Richard! You seem to a knack for offering a solution to my problems as they arise. Sharing your experience and skill has been a great benefit to me.
When I first started turning I couldn’t believe how that little screw could hold such a relatively large piece of wood. Thanks for showing us the process of making those spacers and collars. Quite valuable information.
After watching this video I think I'll just buy the Vicmarc 3 & 1 Chuck at Packard Woodworks for $130.00 and make your spacers to shorten the wood screw as needed. Money well spent.......
Great! I do, indeed, use that very style Chuck, and this is going to improve it greatly and let me worry less. My screw is 1/2 the length that you show. You are still kicking it with great and USEFUL videos. Thank you sir. And so enjoy your sense of humor.
I like the video, it shows we are all human, It's a realistic view instead of an idealistic one. Even the great Richard Raffan can have things go wrong.
Thanks for the "Bonus footage." I hope you appreciate how much we love seeing your videos. The information, your techniques, and your delivery are great.
Richard, your long wood worm screw makes me appreciate the shorter Record Power and Nova wood worm screws. I made a donut based on the tip you had in your Illustrated Guide to Woodturning (which you autographed back in 2011 at the Chatanooga Woodcraft store). I have been using that donut for many years with my wood worm screw. I have a set of Record Power 5" jaws that were designed to also hold the woodworm screw that typically only work with the normal jaws, a nice design feature by Record Power. So now a days I tend to use that. I see it is winter there from short views of your hat. Summer here in Atlanta.
Mike, isn't it about time you made your own screw chuck - I look forward to the video. It is cold here and barely into double figures. I've an unheated workshop so a beanie is essential.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Yes, I saw that woven beanie on your head. I'm sitting shirtless in my South Florida screen room watching your video. OK ....., last month I would have killed for woven beanie weather! BTW, that collar rupture is why I cross drill and glue dowels for any tooling that will stress face or side grain like that. Wakodahatchee Chris
OK, now...I've made the collar to fit over my OneWay Talon chuck and it works! Now my problem is that after roughing out the bowl shape, making the tenon, I am unable to get the bowl blank off the screw! I even soaped the threads of the screw first. Any suggestions?
Richard. Thanks so much for acknowledging your stuff ups, makes us all feel a bit better about our own.😂 ....a lesser being would edit out their mistakes.
One of those job that should be simple .. and then the f-up fairy comes for a visit 🤣 Still you stuck with it - take 3! - I'd had stomped off at take 2! 😝
Thanks for another great video. I’m glad you left in the break because that’s something we all have or will do if we turn long enough. Thanks for sharing a good tip.
Thank you for sharing this tip Richard. I am with you on using a dedicated screw chuck, I have several that I use in my production work, but this is a great way for turners to make there chucks with wormwood screws, and other screw chucks safer for larger projects.
And by the way, I’d like to say a huge “ Thank You” to your cameraman/ tech guy, who has been so very busy producing these videos. I don’t recall his name, so please respond with it. Thank you, bud!
Dave Segal is the man and the one who encouraged me to post the videos. However this video is all mine and my second following Essential Tools. I think I might have a new hobby.
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I used the tommy-bar VM90s for many years. I had about six. They're very quick and easy to operate and faster to open and close than the VM100s that have a key. I use an L-shape key on my VM100 so I can adjust my VM100s as fast as I coul using tommy-bars on the VM90.
How do you finish the part where the screw is holding the blank. As you can see with my question, I'm a beginner. I forgot about a jam chuck. I have only turned 1 bowl as of yet.
The screw is usually into the bit that will be hollowed, but if, for instance, you want to take something like a bread board or even bowl off a screw, simply plug the hole. That was the usual practice in the 1970s before we had dedicated woodturning chucks.
I enjoyed the video. Your voice takes me back a few decades ago when I worned out your box making VHS. The invitation to come to Maui still on. Just one 3 hour demo for the club, a few hands on classes and lay on the beach the rest of the stay. Aloha!
Emiliano, I assume. Very tempting but frustatingly I'm no longer up to day-long workshops or the travel involved. Age has slowed me down and you'll all have to make do with my demos on this TH-cam channel - which are pretty much what I delivered during live demos.
Sure sign of an expert - not being afraid to show the pitfalls. You have always shown a "lovely touch". FWIW I recommend your books and vids to all my students. Respect from Ireland, Ruaidhrí
Thanks Richard, that's a great idea. Don't blush but because of your woodturning VHS tape from the library I'm a woodturner. I've learned so much from your videos and books and I still use your techniques 25+ years later, thanks.
You'll find it make a huge difference, though better still is to make your own so you always have a dedicated screw chuck ready to go. th-cam.com/video/7pQDm1ttmqI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Richard for your very first instructional video cassette and books your approach was inspirational, and was fortunate to have met you in the 1990 s at a wood show. Ive been turning wood since 1992 which has allowed me to sell my work in galleries.
In the 1970s I used to turn a lot 18-in x 2-in (460x50mm) ash trays and dishes on a ½-in #14 wood screw with a 7-in (180mm) backing plate. This was well before modern chucks. The screw hole in the base was filled with plastic wood.
Most of the twisting force (torque) transferred from the chuck to the workpiece is by frictional contact between the backing surface and the workpiece. It follows that a larger diameter is better. The main function of the screw is to pull the piece up against the backing surface. -old guy, NC, USA
Been watching you turn for years, still have some vhs tapes but no player anymore.. one question i always wondered, not necessarily with this piece but in general how in the world do you get so much time on the burr on your scrapers? Every time I turn around I need to bring the burr back up, you seem to get forever on your scrapers.. is it some benefit that happens living below the equator..
I'd put it down to my choice of timber. Turning wood for a living, I always looked for wood that's easy to work, aiming to avoid any boards or logs that might contain grit or silica that blunts tools in a milli-second, or grain that's particularly tricky to cut cleanly. I usually hone scrapers rather than go to the grinder, although which can depend on the wood I'm turning.
@@ned711 Honing is sharpening, fine sharpening. However I only hone edges I'm about to use for scraping or shear scraping. Honing creates a micro bevel that on shear-cutting gouges and skew chisels (when I want the whole bevel against the wood) that I prefer to be without, so I use an edge straight off the 80-grit CBN wheel.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you, Richard, for your thorough and thoughtful response. While I rarely hone an edge, I’ll now give it a try again when I’m scraping for a final finish. Ned
Great video. Gave me a few new turning tricks for my lathe although out of laziness I'll probably 3D print the part you just made for quicker results and a stronger part.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning It is indeed faster to turn it by hand (probably more fun too) but in terms of performance the plastic part would probably be better in a few ways. There's no grain so won't split, although using plywood is a fix on that. It's more precise to print it and I can probably add in a few extra features like a bolt pattern with recesses for nuts etc to use it as some sort of secondary mounting plate.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Sometimes something simple goes unnoticed and unmanufactured. I'm thinking this could double as a quick detach face mounting place by expanding the centre to hold it in place. Print a few copies to have on hand for misc projects and I'm laughing....until I over stress the plastic and it all breaks apart.....nothing's ever perfect lol
Richard- Many thanks for the wonderful demonstrations. In some of your books you discuss using templates to replicate bowls. Could you demonstrate how you do that?
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Maybe its like riding a bike? -- you never forget. I have learned to duplicate things but its very time consuming. Would like to get to production level speed.
@@davehickman742 Making a set of bowls or plates it's important to get the height the same on each, or within a millimetre, likewise with details like beads on the profile. Whereas the diameter isn't so important -small differences in diameter don't leap to the eye like variations in height or having one bead higher than another. Sets of bowls need to look right from above with matching rims, but they are rarely viewed from the side so you can accommodate minor differences in the profile. Repetition is the key to the turning, and getting into a rhythm. Don't change your, tools, techniques, or approach halfway through a set, and trust your eye. It's the small differences in a handmade set that makes it more appealing than one with all pieces exacty the same.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning After reading your book "The Art of Turned Bowls" (and learning that the possible forms are unlimited and some are more pleasing than others). I started drawing a form for a particular blank. I then turn an approximation of that form (since I could not figure out how to use a template). I now have a number of drawn forms that I can select from (not necessarily to make sets - while that might be nice as well). Maybe I'm overthinking this and I just need to turn more of the same item to improve speed and repeatability. PM if you would like to see some of my work.
That is one of the joys of this community: everyone is so willing to leave mistakes unedited. Great job 🌞
We only learn through mistakes. I hope to save you making the ones I have.
It’s really interesting to watch a master and all your solutions to the problems you run into. Your depth of knowledge is quite the wellspring for me to learn from. Thank you!
Many thanks Richard! You seem to a knack for offering a solution to my problems as they arise. Sharing your experience and skill has been a great benefit to me.
An embarrassing fail, but at least it was not in front of an audience!🤭
When I first started turning I couldn’t believe how that little screw could hold such a relatively large piece of wood. Thanks for showing us the process of making those spacers and collars. Quite valuable information.
After watching this video I think I'll just buy the Vicmarc 3 & 1 Chuck at Packard Woodworks for $130.00 and make your spacers to shorten the wood screw as needed. Money well spent.......
To me, this is a complicated solution. A faceplate works just fine and is easier to use.
Great! I do, indeed, use that very style Chuck, and this is going to improve it greatly and let me worry less. My screw is 1/2 the length that you show.
You are still kicking it with great and USEFUL videos. Thank you sir.
And so enjoy your sense of humor.
I like the video, it shows we are all human, It's a realistic view instead of an idealistic one. Even the great Richard Raffan can have things go wrong.
Thanks for the "Bonus footage."
I hope you appreciate how much we love seeing your videos. The information, your techniques, and your delivery are great.
Got to admire Richard - I’ll bet most demonstrators wouldn’t be so honest!👌👌
Richard, your long wood worm screw makes me appreciate the shorter Record Power and Nova wood worm screws. I made a donut based on the tip you had in your Illustrated Guide to Woodturning (which you autographed back in 2011 at the Chatanooga Woodcraft store). I have been using that donut for many years with my wood worm screw. I have a set of Record Power 5" jaws that were designed to also hold the woodworm screw that typically only work with the normal jaws, a nice design feature by Record Power. So now a days I tend to use that. I see it is winter there from short views of your hat. Summer here in Atlanta.
Mike, isn't it about time you made your own screw chuck - I look forward to the video. It is cold here and barely into double figures. I've an unheated workshop so a beanie is essential.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Yes, I saw that woven beanie on your head. I'm sitting shirtless in my South Florida screen room watching your video. OK ....., last month I would have killed for woven beanie weather! BTW, that collar rupture is why I cross drill and glue dowels for any tooling that will stress face or side grain like that.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Thanks Richard. Im just getting into wood turning myself, and your videos are great. Also great watching fellow australians. 👍🏼
Ah, now I see what you mean by using a scraper for the negative rake.
This man is a Wizard
OK, now...I've made the collar to fit over my OneWay Talon chuck and it works! Now my problem is that after roughing out the bowl shape, making the tenon, I am unable to get the bowl blank off the screw! I even soaped the threads of the screw first. Any suggestions?
You did a Harper,,
Who never make mistakes…step out 😊😊😊😊 great idea for the chuck (norris) cheers from Luxembourg 🇱🇺 Europe
Richard. Thanks so much for acknowledging your stuff ups, makes us all feel a bit better about our own.😂
....a lesser being would edit out their mistakes.
One of those job that should be simple .. and then the f-up fairy comes for a visit 🤣 Still you stuck with it - take 3! - I'd had stomped off at take 2! 😝
breaking the first one is reassuring inasmuch as even the experts have stupid breaks. i constantly forget which way to undo
I have done the same thing with my old original Nova Chuck! Those two rods are something.
Warts and all. The true mark of confidence. Abom would have left in the goofs as well.
Thanks Richard another nugget of information that most people wouldn't think of. Cheers Geoff
The mistakes are just as educational as the perfect takes. Nice to know everybody goes of the rails now and then.
Great idea for stabilizing larger pieces for turning on with a chuck and woodworm screw . Thanks for sharing Richard
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Thanks for another great video. I’m glad you left in the break because that’s something we all have or will do if we turn long enough. Thanks for sharing a good tip.
Very Nice Great information Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this tip Richard. I am with you on using a dedicated screw chuck, I have several that I use in my production work, but this is a great way for turners to make there chucks with wormwood screws, and other screw chucks safer for larger projects.
Thanks Richard very useful info.
Once again, you have inspired me to get out into the workshop and get busy! Thank you!
And by the way, I’d like to say a huge “ Thank You” to your cameraman/ tech guy, who has been so very busy producing these videos.
I don’t recall his name, so please respond with it.
Thank you, bud!
Dave Segal is the man and the one who encouraged me to post the videos. However this video is all mine and my second following Essential Tools. I think I might have a new hobby.
These videos are superbly helpful. Thank-you
Awsome video, is that VM90 chuck?
Was looking to get one for maybe a really big set of jaws since its a bit cheaper that 100.....
It is a Vicmarc VM90. If you don't have a spindle lock you're better off with a VM100 which is the same size but has a key.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I do have spindle lock, its a bit cheaper so it cross my mind😀
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning performanse vise,do they perform the same? Other then levers do you find them ok?
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning I used the tommy-bar VM90s for many years. I had about six. They're very quick and easy to operate and faster to open and close than the VM100s that have a key. I use an L-shape key on my VM100 so I can adjust my VM100s as fast as I coul using tommy-bars on the VM90.
I love you videos and your humility
How do you finish the part where the screw is holding the blank. As you can see with my question, I'm a beginner. I forgot about a jam chuck. I have only turned 1 bowl as of yet.
The screw is usually into the bit that will be hollowed, but if, for instance, you want to take something like a bread board or even bowl off a screw, simply plug the hole. That was the usual practice in the 1970s before we had dedicated woodturning chucks.
Great lesson Richard.
I enjoyed the video. Your voice takes me back a few decades ago when I worned out your box making VHS. The invitation to come to Maui still on. Just one 3 hour demo for the club, a few hands on classes and lay on the beach the rest of the stay. Aloha!
Emiliano, I assume. Very tempting but frustatingly I'm no longer up to day-long workshops or the travel involved. Age has slowed me down and you'll all have to make do with my demos on this TH-cam channel - which are pretty much what I delivered during live demos.
Sure sign of an expert - not being afraid to show the pitfalls.
You have always shown a "lovely touch".
FWIW I recommend your books and vids to all my students.
Respect from Ireland,
Ruaidhrí
Many thanks.
Thanks Richard, that's a great idea. Don't blush but because of your woodturning VHS tape from the library I'm a woodturner. I've learned so much from your videos and books and I still use your techniques 25+ years later, thanks.
Glad to have been of help
Thanks for sharing, looks like a great little project that in turn could become very helpful.
You'll find it make a huge difference, though better still is to make your own so you always have a dedicated screw chuck ready to go. th-cam.com/video/7pQDm1ttmqI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Richard for your very first instructional video cassette and books your approach was inspirational, and was fortunate to have met you in the 1990 s at a wood show. Ive been turning wood since 1992 which has allowed me to sell my work in galleries.
Glad to have been of help.
Three's the charm.
Thank You!
Thanks.
Good to know that a larger diameter equals a shorter screw, that’s gonna be helpful for platters, thank you so much Richard
In the 1970s I used to turn a lot 18-in x 2-in (460x50mm) ash trays and dishes on a ½-in #14 wood screw with a 7-in (180mm) backing plate. This was well before modern chucks. The screw hole in the base was filled with plastic wood.
Most of the twisting force (torque) transferred from the chuck to the workpiece is by frictional contact between the backing surface and the workpiece. It follows that a larger diameter is better. The main function of the screw is to pull the piece up against the backing surface. -old guy, NC, USA
Been watching you turn for years, still have some vhs tapes but no player anymore.. one question i always wondered, not necessarily with this piece but in general how in the world do you get so much time on the burr on your scrapers? Every time I turn around I need to bring the burr back up, you seem to get forever on your scrapers.. is it some benefit that happens living below the equator..
I'd put it down to my choice of timber. Turning wood for a living, I always looked for wood that's easy to work, aiming to avoid any boards or logs that might contain grit or silica that blunts tools in a milli-second, or grain that's particularly tricky to cut cleanly. I usually hone scrapers rather than go to the grinder, although which can depend on the wood I'm turning.
Honing rather than sharpening at the wheel. Interesting to know that honing actually is effective. Will attempt to do it more often. Thanks.
@@ned711 Honing is sharpening, fine sharpening. However I only hone edges I'm about to use for scraping or shear scraping. Honing creates a micro bevel that on shear-cutting gouges and skew chisels (when I want the whole bevel against the wood) that I prefer to be without, so I use an edge straight off the 80-grit CBN wheel.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you, Richard, for your thorough and thoughtful response. While I rarely hone an edge, I’ll now give it a try again when I’m scraping for a final finish. Ned
Great video. Gave me a few new turning tricks for my lathe although out of laziness I'll probably 3D print the part you just made for quicker results and a stronger part.
It might be quicker to turn one...
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning It is indeed faster to turn it by hand (probably more fun too) but in terms of performance the plastic part would probably be better in a few ways. There's no grain so won't split, although using plywood is a fix on that. It's more precise to print it and I can probably add in a few extra features like a bolt pattern with recesses for nuts etc to use it as some sort of secondary mounting plate.
@@rpower1401 Couldn't agree more. I often wonder what the manufacturers don't make collars.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Sometimes something simple goes unnoticed and unmanufactured. I'm thinking this could double as a quick detach face mounting place by expanding the centre to hold it in place. Print a few copies to have on hand for misc projects and I'm laughing....until I over stress the plastic and it all breaks apart.....nothing's ever perfect lol
Richard- Many thanks for the wonderful demonstrations. In some of your books you discuss using templates to replicate bowls. Could you demonstrate how you do that?
That's something I've not done for at least 35 years, maybe 52. I'll add it to my list to shoot.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Maybe its like riding a bike? -- you never forget. I have learned to duplicate things but its very time consuming. Would like to get to production level speed.
@@davehickman742 Making a set of bowls or plates it's important to get the height the same on each, or within a millimetre, likewise with details like beads on the profile. Whereas the diameter isn't so important -small differences in diameter don't leap to the eye like variations in height or having one bead higher than another. Sets of bowls need to look right from above with matching rims, but they are rarely viewed from the side so you can accommodate minor differences in the profile. Repetition is the key to the turning, and getting into a rhythm. Don't change your, tools, techniques, or approach halfway through a set, and trust your eye. It's the small differences in a handmade set that makes it more appealing than one with all pieces exacty the same.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning After reading your book "The Art of Turned Bowls" (and learning that the possible forms are unlimited and some are more pleasing than others).
I started drawing a form for a particular blank. I then turn an approximation of that form (since I could not figure out how to use a template).
I now have a number of drawn forms that I can select from (not necessarily to make sets - while that might be nice as well). Maybe I'm overthinking this and I just need to turn more of the same item to improve speed and repeatability. PM if you would like to see some of my work.
@@davehickman742 Happy to do email but can't work out how to PM. Can you contact me via www.richardraffan.com.au/contact/
I almost shouted "You're going the wrong way!".