I've ran one these my whole live. there are so many adjustments on these to do to make the perfect bale. the things you all or talking about are just a few minor things that cause basic problems with what you are trying to fix. sharpening those knives help but that is not the cause of what he had going on here. there was two twines running back to the knotters. that means the bill hock held on to the knot. there are several things that can cause this. The bill hook is too tight. the stripper is not sitting up against the bill hook tight enough to strip it off, the hay dog on that side (usually the feed side) is not holding like it should ........ could be something underneath it or a broken spring, there are several other things that can cause it as well. .... usually it isn't just on thing that causes most of the problems it is a combination of several things. by fixing one thing you may cause one or more other things to need re-adjusting ........ so when ever I have problems with the knotters I usually started at the beginning and worked my way through to the end to make sure everything was feeding and adjusted right....... the Banana bale can usually be caused from about 4 things: too thin of wind rows and not feeding it fast enough, too heavy of hay and trying to feed it too fast ..... those in combination with these 2 two things will cause banana bales ........... the feed needs adjusted because the hay is not being pushed into the chamber (in front of the plunger) deep enough or it is too deep. you could also have a broken feed finger or spring at the front that is not allowing it to push the hay in all the way. the tension of the bales has nothing to do with a banana bale. another thing that can cause this is the hay dogs (2 or 3 on top and usually 1 on the bottom) are not holding ...... either because of build up under the dogs, wear or most often broken springs. You also need to make sure that you have the tension on the twine where it comes out of the box set right. if you have it too loose it will help cause banana bales, bad knots, the knot to hang up on the bill hook ........... if it is too lose the twine can get missed and you will have to rethread it. Roger W. made some really good points too. These knotters are simple but have a lot of complex parts on them and there are a lot of little things that all can lead up to causing the main problem ........... not tying or making lose, uneven, bad bales. A lot of times you will be looking for the problem in the knotters but the real problem will be some where else completely ...... such as in the feed system the hay dogs or the plunger and bale chamber. I say that I have lost most of my hair in the process of gaining the knowledge I have about these balers and the knotter system.
Good day from Ontario. Our baler mechanic said something like if 3 out 5 , or 5,out 7 bales tie it,s not baler fault.. 1 time baling on Saturday nite 2 rounds to go baling doesn't tie, looked at twine about 2 rounds on ball, switched balls worked perfect . Yes good advice. Thanks
Привіт дуже хороший коментар розширений і вказані усі причини які можуть виникати в процесі тюкування для мене це дуже цінна інформація дякую вам в мене також є прес супер хайлайнер 268 Нью холанд я з України вам всім привіт міцного здоров'я миру успіхів у праці 👍👍👍🇺🇦🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝👋
I file might be good for initially sharpening a knife, but I'd definitely use a finer hone or emery stick to really sharpen it. No way you'll get something "razor sharp" with a file. Still good info to know though.
Question, are the bolts that you took off to flip the knotter up, suppose to be bolted tight after you lower the knotter?? Reason I ask is because I've seen some new holland knotters that don't use bolts to hold the knotter down. They had clevis pins, and the knotter had a slight amount of play in them.
An older gentleman that lives by me told me to keep those loose, otherwise it creates problems. I don’t know what those problems are, and I don’t want to find out! Haha
That's a good question and answer. I have a NH 68 Hayliner that I'm using for the first time this hay season. I've noticed in a couple videos where the knotters are held in position with a clevis pin while mine are bolted tight. I think I'm going to switch to the pin. I'm just learning about these machines and there are plenty of videos showing the different problems that can occur during baling. I'm currently making 'banana' or 'horseshoe' bales and the left knotter is tying, but won't let the knot go afterwards. After watching several videos and reading many comments, I'm going to look for 'hay dog' springs to see if my 68 even has them? Also going to try to adjust the arm that swipes the knot off of the bill after the knot is tied.
Your 68 does have dog springs if I remember right. They are very important to making a good bale. The stripper arm that pulls the knot off the hook is kinda difficult to adjust as it requires you bend it to the right adjustment. Be careful. The best tool you can buy is an operators manual. Things that are forgotten on older balers are haydogs,knives(plunger and knotter),bale wedges,plunger bearings,and the list goes on. As said above,there’s a lot that goes into making a good bale that you’d never connect in your mind without a manual. Also,sharpening the knotter knives is good in a pinch but another poster correctly said they need to be a bit sharper than a file will get them. They are still available last I knew at your local new holland dealer. Grind the rivets out and replace with the bolts they supply with the blades. Good luck.
@@michaelshea4372 Thanks for the info. I haven't had much luck this summer after the baler problems during the first cutting. I gave that weed filled hay to a friend who's cows will eat it. He round baled it to get it off of my fields while the baler went back to the local repair shop. Now we're in the beginning of September and the field has hardly grown due to lack of rain all summer. I've got the baler back, but no way to test it....🙄
Adjusting your tension on the bale might help with the goofy shaped bales. Usually one side is a little loose and a the other a little tight. If you have any more questions I will try to help.
Ty's Projects hay dog springs can cause banana bales, i wish there was a way to take the knife off to sharpen i guess ill have to flat file mine like you did. i saw mine is rivetted on and you cant get the whole arm off
storminnormanz The knotters on new Holland bailers are the same style as on John Deere 24t's and 327 336 346 348 . You can pull the cotter key out of the arm that the knife is on and take it out and put it in a vise to sharpen it. Make sure that the brass roller at the end that rolls in the head gear is good with no flat spots and that it rolls and when you put them in make sure that when it sweeps the bill hook it has a slight pressure on it when it slides over the hook . If its to loose the knot will hang up on the hook . As for the hooks make sure the work good and the hook arm is free and the small roller on it is good . Some of the sweep arms have removable plate that sweeps the knot off . My 24't has them . BUT some of the arms its cast right in the arm. With the knotter up in the air , make sure the plate is centered on the hook if not take the arm off and add shims to the stud that goes through the frame of the knotter. Check the bushing too if real loose it won't tie either . once its centered . If it don't have pressure as it sweeps , if not take a long pry bar or something to can slightly bend the arm enough that it has pressure on it when it moves over the hook. The arm is made out softer steel and is bendable . The arms on Some of the John Deere's , The plates unscrew and can be replaced . On mines the plates that were riveted on and can be pulled out and the holes can be drilled and tapped for 10/32 threads . Well I hope my tips will help someone . I learned from my Dad and a good friend about them. So hope it helps. Roger Wagenius Grantsburg Wisconsin .
I've ran one these my whole live. there are so many adjustments on these to do to make the perfect bale. the things you all or talking about are just a few minor things that cause basic problems with what you are trying to fix. sharpening those knives help but that is not the cause of what he had going on here. there was two twines running back to the knotters. that means the bill hock held on to the knot. there are several things that can cause this. The bill hook is too tight. the stripper is not sitting up against the bill hook tight enough to strip it off, the hay dog on that side (usually the feed side) is not holding like it should ........ could be something underneath it or a broken spring, there are several other things that can cause it as well. .... usually it isn't just on thing that causes most of the problems it is a combination of several things. by fixing one thing you may cause one or more other things to need re-adjusting ........ so when ever I have problems with the knotters I usually started at the beginning and worked my way through to the end to make sure everything was feeding and adjusted right....... the Banana bale can usually be caused from about 4 things: too thin of wind rows and not feeding it fast enough, too heavy of hay and trying to feed it too fast ..... those in combination with these 2 two things will cause banana bales ........... the feed needs adjusted because the hay is not being pushed into the chamber (in front of the plunger) deep enough or it is too deep. you could also have a broken feed finger or spring at the front that is not allowing it to push the hay in all the way. the tension of the bales has nothing to do with a banana bale. another thing that can cause this is the hay dogs (2 or 3 on top and usually 1 on the bottom) are not holding ...... either because of build up under the dogs, wear or most often broken springs. You also need to make sure that you have the tension on the twine where it comes out of the box set right. if you have it too loose it will help cause banana bales, bad knots, the knot to hang up on the bill hook ........... if it is too lose the twine can get missed and you will have to rethread it. Roger W. made some really good points too. These knotters are simple but have a lot of complex parts on them and there are a lot of little things that all can lead up to causing the main problem ........... not tying or making lose, uneven, bad bales. A lot of times you will be looking for the problem in the knotters but the real problem will be some where else completely ...... such as in the feed system the hay dogs or the plunger and bale chamber. I say that I have lost most of my hair in the process of gaining the knowledge I have about these balers and the knotter system.
you should make the video.....
Good day from Ontario. Our baler mechanic said something like if 3 out 5 , or 5,out 7 bales tie it,s not baler fault.. 1 time baling on Saturday nite 2 rounds to go baling doesn't tie, looked at twine about 2 rounds on ball, switched balls worked perfect . Yes good advice. Thanks
Привіт дуже хороший коментар розширений і вказані усі причини які можуть виникати в процесі тюкування для мене це дуже цінна інформація дякую вам в мене також є прес супер хайлайнер 268 Нью холанд я з України вам всім привіт міцного здоров'я миру успіхів у праці 👍👍👍🇺🇦🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝👋
Thanks! I've got a Case 130 baler that was doing this with my last hundred bales and I didn't know why.
Big help. i had a hell of time thanks
I file might be good for initially sharpening a knife, but I'd definitely use a finer hone or emery stick to really sharpen it. No way you'll get something "razor sharp" with a file. Still good info to know though.
Question, are the bolts that you took off to flip the knotter up, suppose to be bolted tight after you lower the knotter??
Reason I ask is because I've seen some new holland knotters that don't use bolts to hold the knotter down. They had clevis pins, and the knotter had a slight amount of play in them.
An older gentleman that lives by me told me to keep those loose, otherwise it creates problems. I don’t know what those problems are, and I don’t want to find out! Haha
That's a good question and answer. I have a NH 68 Hayliner that I'm using for the first time this hay season. I've noticed in a couple videos where the knotters are held in position with a clevis pin while mine are bolted tight. I think I'm going to switch to the pin. I'm just learning about these machines and there are plenty of videos showing the different problems that can occur during baling. I'm currently making 'banana' or 'horseshoe' bales and the left knotter is tying, but won't let the knot go afterwards. After watching several videos and reading many comments, I'm going to look for 'hay dog' springs to see if my 68 even has them? Also going to try to adjust the arm that swipes the knot off of the bill after the knot is tied.
Your 68 does have dog springs if I remember right. They are very important to making a good bale. The stripper arm that pulls the knot off the hook is kinda difficult to adjust as it requires you bend it to the right adjustment. Be careful. The best tool you can buy is an operators manual. Things that are forgotten on older balers are haydogs,knives(plunger and knotter),bale wedges,plunger bearings,and the list goes on. As said above,there’s a lot that goes into making a good bale that you’d never connect in your mind without a manual. Also,sharpening the knotter knives is good in a pinch but another poster correctly said they need to be a bit sharper than a file will get them. They are still available last I knew at your local new holland dealer. Grind the rivets out and replace with the bolts they supply with the blades. Good luck.
Almost forgot...a new set of wedges will tighten your bales up and make your knotters work a whole lot better
@@michaelshea4372 Thanks for the info. I haven't had much luck this summer after the baler problems during the first cutting. I gave that weed filled hay to a friend who's cows will eat it. He round baled it to get it off of my fields while the baler went back to the local repair shop. Now we're in the beginning of September and the field has hardly grown due to lack of rain all summer. I've got the baler back, but no way to test it....🙄
Very helpful same exact problem I had today watched your video and problem solved thanks alot 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What are you baling this time of year?
@@tysprojects2571 I am in south africa lol summer, lucerne or alfalfa
Thats a superb bit of information there Ty. Solved one problem for me - thank you. Do you know how to fix banana shaped bales.
Adjusting your tension on the bale might help with the goofy shaped bales. Usually one side is a little loose and a the other a little tight. If you have any more questions I will try to help.
Never thought of that
Ty's Projects hay dog springs can cause banana bales, i wish there was a way to take the knife off to sharpen i guess ill have to flat file mine like you did. i saw mine is rivetted on and you cant get the whole arm off
storminnormanz The knotters on new Holland bailers are the same style as on John Deere 24t's and 327 336 346 348 . You can pull the cotter key out of the arm that the knife is on and take it out and put it in a vise to sharpen it. Make sure that the brass roller at the end that rolls in the head gear is good with no flat spots and that it rolls and when you put them in make sure that when it sweeps the bill hook it has a slight pressure on it when it slides over the hook . If its to loose the knot will hang up on the hook . As for the hooks make sure the work good and the hook arm is free and the small roller on it is good . Some of the sweep arms have removable plate that sweeps the knot off . My 24't has them . BUT some of the arms its cast right in the arm. With the knotter up in the air , make sure the plate is centered on the hook if not take the arm off and add shims to the stud that goes through the frame of the knotter. Check the bushing too if real loose it won't tie either . once its centered . If it don't have pressure as it sweeps , if not take a long pry bar or something to can slightly bend the arm enough that it has pressure on it when it moves over the hook. The arm is made out softer steel and is bendable . The arms on Some of the John Deere's , The plates unscrew and can be replaced . On mines the plates that were riveted on and can be pulled out and the holes can be drilled and tapped for 10/32 threads . Well I hope my tips will help someone . I learned from my Dad and a good friend about them. So hope it helps. Roger Wagenius Grantsburg Wisconsin .
That was a mouthful of really good information!
To much grease on the knotters make them misfire
That’s good to know!
Do not over grease either that cause major problems
You need two sets of eyes 👀 in finding your problems with a bailer.