Excellent video, especially showing the positions of the gears when reinstalling. The manual skips this. I'm a newbie to square balers and getting my twine discs timed, and more importantly staying in time, was my last step in getting an old NH273 to tie knots again.
Been there done that. There’s a grease passage that usually clogs and you can access it when you remove the shaft and clean it if you can so the shaft doesn’t get worn before it’s due. That kid is growing at warp speed!! What are you feeding him?
The grease passage has been in good shape on this baler. Thanks though. And he is a really good eater. He mostly likes meat though and beans…so lots of protein!
For our area we haven’t had issues. We don’t get a lot of snow. Most we have had on the ground at once since we had it is probably 14-15”. But the snow doesn’t really stay on the roof except for the very center because of the shape. Wind hasn’t cause issues either. The building in my videos is my dads. It’s a 30x72 silver stream. It’s probably been up for 10 years or so now. I’d have to go back and look at when we installed it for sure. I was skeptical but it’s been a good building
I'm not sure I'm understanding your question. When you say camshaft what are you referring to? And I am assuming you mean the kick off of tying the knot? So the knotter drive?
@@thebalerman what makes the needle moves? In sametime there is medium gear moves. That moves other part to catch the rope and make the knot. That gear has some teeth on it but not completely.
Ok stay tuned. I will try to go over some timing on the square baler. Idk what specifically you’re after or what issues you’re having but I’ll cover the general timing and we can go from there
I have a similar problem, knots hanging on bull hook but mine is the knife arm is not swiping past the bill hook far enough. It’s only going past the bill hook like 1/4”. The other side goes past like 3/4”. How do you adjust the travel length? My book says 1/2” min but it doesn’t say how to adjust it.
Good old fashioned force adjustment. Either a hammer or a pry bar and bend it. Just go in little increments. Once you get the travel right you’ll most likely have to readjust the knife arm to billhook clearance to make sure it’s rubbing
Lovely to watch. The bill hook should have the right swipe. I was astonished to see that the mechanic I brought the knotter to gave a big bang on it with a hammer. He said one big blow is better than ten small ones. Later I did it myself and the farmer thought I went nuts of frustration and would brake the thing. That was after five loose bales, ten good ones and so on. Never go baling without a hammer
42 inch bales are stupid I hired a guy to use a bail bandit last year to bail for me and it needs a 42 inch bale to ban together correctly and they were just ridiculously huge Bales and to dance very hard for them to cure properly as well
Where does it look like we aren't getting grease to? The areas I point about wear don't get lubrication. If you did, chaff would stick to it and cause all kinds of issues.
@@thebalerman Grease the knotters after 1500 bales. Once I did 3,600 bales a day without greasing. No problems. But when we changed one of our three New Hollands for another make knotter problems started after some 1,800 bales.
Excellent video, especially showing the positions of the gears when reinstalling. The manual skips this. I'm a newbie to square balers and getting my twine discs timed, and more importantly staying in time, was my last step in getting an old NH273 to tie knots again.
Awesome! Glad to hear it helped you. Thanks for watching.
Been there done that. There’s a grease passage that usually clogs and you can access it when you remove the shaft and clean it if you can so the shaft doesn’t get worn before it’s due.
That kid is growing at warp speed!! What are you feeding him?
The grease passage has been in good shape on this baler. Thanks though. And he is a really good eater. He mostly likes meat though and beans…so lots of protein!
Twine discs cleaners and keepers and your problems will be solved I been through this many times.
Thanks for the info.
I was told by an old cowboy ,”If you make the bales small ,the women will feed the horses “
Old saying...I don't bale any heavier than my wife can lift !!! Lol
How do you like those hoop buildings? Been thinking about getting one but was worried about the wind n snow.
For our area we haven’t had issues. We don’t get a lot of snow. Most we have had on the ground at once since we had it is probably 14-15”. But the snow doesn’t really stay on the roof except for the very center because of the shape. Wind hasn’t cause issues either. The building in my videos is my dads. It’s a 30x72 silver stream. It’s probably been up for 10 years or so now. I’d have to go back and look at when we installed it for sure. I was skeptical but it’s been a good building
i am looking for content illustrate the timing of moving the camshft. the kick off of timing the knot. can you explain it please
I'm not sure I'm understanding your question. When you say camshaft what are you referring to? And I am assuming you mean the kick off of tying the knot? So the knotter drive?
@@thebalerman what makes the needle moves?
In sametime there is medium gear moves. That moves other part to catch the rope and make the knot.
That gear has some teeth on it but not completely.
Ok stay tuned. I will try to go over some timing on the square baler. Idk what specifically you’re after or what issues you’re having but I’ll cover the general timing and we can go from there
I have a similar problem, knots hanging on bull hook but mine is the knife arm is not swiping past the bill hook far enough. It’s only going past the bill hook like 1/4”. The other side goes past like 3/4”. How do you adjust the travel length? My book says 1/2” min but it doesn’t say how to adjust it.
Good old fashioned force adjustment. Either a hammer or a pry bar and bend it. Just go in little increments. Once you get the travel right you’ll most likely have to readjust the knife arm to billhook clearance to make sure it’s rubbing
@@thebalerman thanks so much! I will tackle it and see what happens. Keep up the great videos!
Lovely to watch. The bill hook should have the right swipe. I was astonished to see that the mechanic I brought the knotter to gave a big bang on it with a hammer. He said one big blow is better than ten small ones. Later I did it myself and the farmer thought I went nuts of frustration and would brake the thing. That was after five loose bales, ten good ones and so on. Never go baling without a hammer
Hi sir
If my bails on one side not tight enough what could be the problem ?
Install new hay wedges also. All the difference in the world
Gonto newholland and get all new parts like I did and haven’t missed a bale yet
Yeah we are. But we had hay on the ground so we were able to get it going with parts we had on hand.
42 inch bales are stupid I hired a guy to use a bail bandit last year to bail for me and it needs a 42 inch bale to ban together correctly and they were just ridiculously huge Bales and to dance very hard for them to cure properly as well
I would hate to handle 42” bales. About 36” is what we bale.
@@kennethheern4896 I do 36 inch
Looks like the problem wasn’t a twine problem.
Looks like more lube would be beneficial after you get the new parts in.!!
Where does it look like we aren't getting grease to? The areas I point about wear don't get lubrication. If you did, chaff would stick to it and cause all kinds of issues.
@@thebalerman Grease the knotters after 1500 bales. Once I did 3,600 bales a day without greasing. No problems. But when we changed one of our three New Hollands for another make knotter problems started after some 1,800 bales.