How to rule out a Spark Plug as your problem
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- Learn how to easily test a spark plug to rule it out as the cause of your engine problem. A simple and highly effective method(when done properly) that I've always used to confirm if a spark plug is/is not the cause of engine starting and/or performance problems. Why run to the store and buy a new spark plug as a gamble, which may not be inexpensive, when you can verify if the plug is the problem using your digital multimeter. Save time and money! No method is 100%, but this method has been proven to work the great majority of the time.
I decided to upload this video when I discovered that not too many people knew about this simple, effective spark plug test.
**RULE OUT SPARK PLUG WIRES with my other video:
• How To Test Spark Plug...
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**ATTENTION: If you have any concerns about removing a hot spark plug from an aluminum head, then you can also remove the plug when it's cool and heat it up in a toaster oven to 300 Deg F to perform the "hot" test. Never file down or sand Platinum/Iridium tipped plugs. "Hotter" spark plugs have a LONGER ceramic nose, and "Colder" spark plugs have a SHORTER ceramic nose. Using a slightly hotter plug can prevent fouling if your rings are worn and allowing excessive oil to accumulate on the spark plug's electrode. Thanks for watching!
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electronicsNmore c
Lawnmowers now use suppression plugs due to the Delphi fuel injection systems on Kohler and Vanguard. Specifically the NGK bpr4es and bprm4es as well the 5’s too. If not the 5 volt reference in the OBC will act wonky and cause problems in the injectors as well as the coils. Just a little info on the subject :)
electronicsNmore "
electronicsNmore 988
electronicsNmore
what is the best spark plugs to use in a 98 ford explorer 4.0 sohc v.6
Quick Tip: For continuity testing or even resistance you should always try an initial test by touching the two leads together first. Its not unheard of to have bad leads or connection to multi meter that may make you think something is wrong with the spark plug for example. Just good practice.
Gee, ya think?
Clear and articulate, no nonsense, good old common sense, no annoying hard rock or ricky ticky music to distract. Well done. Keep up the good work.
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Can we have an article about cable resistance/airgap resistance, the latter mainly in America.?
Indeed. This gentleman does commendable, thorough work and actually USES his brain... Something that, very sadly, has become very rare these days.
This is seriously like the best video ever ! I was one of the "didn't know" people. Had no clue. I just switched spark plugs around and read codes. This is so much better. In my defense I'm Polish and I'm a girl so it's ok ;)
This was very relevent for me, precisely illustrated the issue I was having, and here it's 2020. Thanks for keeping this on TH-cam.
You're very welcome! Always nice to have viewers from Down Under! Be sure to share my channel with many others. Thank you!
When I had the pleasure of working with a great racing mechanic Mario Deliotti I showed him that a plug I had out of my Alfa Romeo sparked perfectly well out on top of the engine. He laughed at me, called me something in Italian, and told me to put it the spark plug tester. I did and it sparked ok looking through the inspection window. Now I turned up the air pressure ( the tester connected to the shop air line) and at 80 psi plus it hardly sparked at all. Put a new plug in the tester and that lit up like a Christmas tree at any pressure. As an electronics engineer I have never understood why this should be but it taught me that a low voltage meter test at atmospheric pressure is worthless. Don’t waste your time just replace the plug.
Never had the test fail. Your situation was highly uncommon.
At a guess you sound as if you are in your twenties and dont appear to work in the motor trade. I have a vehicle in my own garage that has just this problem. I call BS on your "uncommon" statement, if only because you haven't have enough real world exposure to have encountered it.
I am 67 and have worked on most vehicles in an auto electrical capacity, It was just something that I surprised me as an electronics engineer, and later help me when I was designing electronic ignition systems.
Yes that is correct, the higher the air pressure, the harder a spark has to work to punch through it. However you do not need anything as elaborate as a pressure chamber to test spark plugs "under pressure". Simply open the electrode gap to one quarter inch and it will simulate it for you. If you get a good spark like that its good to go.
That's a good tip but unfortunately these were Lodge 2LH plugs with the four point electrodes.
Hi Mr.Electronics ,man you are from the future ,you are so knowlegable man I admire you ,just brilliant.
:-) Be sure to share my channel with many others. Thanks!
First time I've seen a video that recommends testing when hot. This is super important, especially if you have a problem with missing when warm, or even just an intermittent miss.
Thanks for this video, I diagnosed a bad plug (which seemed totally fine), this got my generator running for $3 and made a lot of headaches go away.
You're welcome Kenneth! Many people like you have benefited from the info in this video. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share the video link with friends.
i have had two strimmers inat the same time both with poor hot starting and both had a plug that goes open circuit tip to cap when hot let it cool and the connection come back very nice to find a fault like this
Excellent info! Had no idea all these years how to test plugs. Thank you👍
Nothing is 100%, but it does work very well.
came here after watching project farm, both of you are great and ill be sharing your videos too, well done videos!
Neat stuff. Every mechanic should have a heat gun (I've scored a few at yard sales so I can scatter them around the shop) and will try your method before and after heating up some spark plugs. A propane torch would also work and handheld thermometers are dirt cheap.
To quick check plugs I shoved the end of a gas grill piezo igniter into an angled spark plug boot then ran some solid copper household ground wire around the shell so the ground contact on the igniter has a path to ground. (It normally grounds thru the gas grill body.) Wrap with electrical tape and you're done. Great for detailed arc observation without running an engine.
+Ob Fuscated - My heat gun is always moving around the workshop. Damn useful tool. :-)
Neat trick with the piezo electric, I had an ignition simulator for testing but that's much better and small.
Let me make sure U hold heat on the plug till you read 300 degrees for a hot plug correct?
THis is hands down the best video on the subject Sir. Nicely done fella.
Glad you think so!
I know you are dealing more with the electrical side of testing, but, don't forget to also look for signs of leaking gases around the insulator and signs of plasma staining on the insulator. Both are good indicators of ignition faults/wear and tear. I am hooked on your videos, great job.
Ttttttttttþttttttttttttttttttt
Nice job explaining all details, THANK YOU !
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Actually we use to check the resistance at the end of the Seal line during the manufacturing process. We also did dielectric test to ensure the bisque had no pin holes.
We made millions of every brand plug on the market. No one brand was different from the others.
I know some guy just crapped his pants to hear this, but Champion, Atlas, Prestolite, Autolite, Shell, Sears and others were made exactly the same with the same materials.
Genius Russell Ceramic clay is porse (having gap between Cristal) and carbon with fuet mixed oil gets penetrated during compressions created by piston , the cause of conversion to good conductor is the presence of same oil, so the Manufacturer should use cementing process of between grains gap . The easy , I obtained by soaking the center conical white clay with drops of Elfie (quick jointing liquid gum) that penetrates well in new, Un used spark plug. The life gets doubled with smooth performance. Try n see . my cont. +91 8853486995 ,
Bear Russell - I understand what you say perfectly. I always find quite funny the passionate discussions. French/American/ German/ cars is better than... something else. LOL :-)
I worked for a very well known brand that among many others components, produced ignition coils. For anything American, French, German, English and so on, even Harley (motorbikes). Sometimes even part of the production line is the same... same workers under the same roof, etc.
There are differences, but not where most people think. Surely not in the "brand". ;-) BTW the retail price is the most visible side of the story. LOL :-)
Y7
Well yeah, most products are marketed under various brand names even though they are manufactured by the exact same process.
They all test the same, and operate the same.
However, the issue occurs when the "Brand Name" is applied to the spark plug.
The moment that the brand name "Champion" is imprinted on a sparkplug, its reliability is adversely affected.
Benny, hey I would like to chat a little if you find time. I knew what you mentioned above. Been indexing decades. usavetone@gmail.com I am an engineer re engineer of a few internal combustion systems and try chatting with guy's like you, thanks
Thanks for the great and most thorough information. GOOD TEACHER 🏁
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Thanks for the clear explanation.
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Great information! Thanks for taking the time to do this fine video!
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good vid and info, I am old and have done many types of mechanics my whole life , I wasn't aware of this...thanks for taking the trouble to share friend...God bless...doug
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I bought the same tester today at auto zone it's not $5 anymore but $8.99. Bit after seeing yours had to have it. Thanks for the tips.
Glad you enjoyed the video Robert! Be sure to check out my automotive/mechanical video playlist, and product review video playlist. Thanks
I just now found you channel. From reading comments on a project farm video. Holy cow do I have some watching to do. Glad to find you out there. Take care bud.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching
Think about this? If the ohm reading is 1.5 ohms or more, I believe the spark plug is going bad. This is especially true when it comes to ohming out electronic fuel injector solenoids for Cummins Diesel Electronic Engines. Thanks for the tip on spark plugs. I never thought of your testing method on spark plugs. Please keep those videos coming!
Wonderful video. I put brand new plugs in my Ford Taurus, and it was missing really bad. Broke out my Meter, and two of the plugs were bad straight out of the box...Thank you, you saved my sanity !!
Gary Scott Fischer You're welcome. Be sure to check out my other videos, share, and rate Thumbs Up. Thank You!
Great video, concise and thorough and not boring as some of the educational vids on youtube are, these are important facts that anyone mechanically minded should know and in case they forget its good to come back and have this as a reference. Thanks! Big thumbs up :)
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The best video on the subject I've seen. Been working on bikes all my life and learned something new. Thanks
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Better off to use an insulation tester as used for electrical installation work set at 1000volt scale /me Retired elecrician
Excellent and professional video. Thanks.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting!
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Awesome! Learn something new everyday. Thank you
Mike D You're welcome Mike. Nothing is 100%, but it sure does work well. Please share and rate Thumbs up.
Thank You!
First off, this is a valuable test. Over the years I've seen too many outboard and power equipment owners automatically throw new plugs into a motor expecting that to be the miracle cure. Ninety percent of the time, it isn't. But, I never thought of testing the electrical resistance of the center electrode, which would be the only real reason for failure outside of wear or breakage of the insulator.
great video very informative I've known about the lean rich hot cold what the pulg is telling you about the engine and fuel delivery thanks for taking the time to share your method of testing
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Thank you for the info.
great video. good info and you are not talking about yourself like a lot of youtubers do.
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Straight up and to the point, clear speech, no bullshit. One thumbs up for you!
caliwebman Thanks Cali. Please share my channel.
caliwebman, How would shit from a bull get into a spark plug?
Nice tip. Thanks for uploading
Your Welcome.
I can't speak for today but years ago Champion plugs came with a "booster gap" built into the internal connection from boot to tip. So the continuity check would read open circuit. The booster gap was there to make sure the available voltage was higher when the spark energy actually hit the tip. The idea was to be able to get a fast voltage rise at the tip despite some leakage to ground on the tip of the insulator.
good info . never heard that before . I was going to comment on removing plugs from a hot engine , but you covered that too . I have 4 plugs I saved I'm going to test .
Thanks for watching!
I used the information on this video to check a spark plug on a snow blower that was not starting and had been used once or twice. The 2nd measurement on the existing plug, from tip to the body of the plug, was not showing the results that were demonstrated in the video. I sprayed the other end where the spark should be coming and got inconsistent readings. I spent $1.90 to replace the plug, and the snow blower started immediately. Thanks for the service.
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Very informative video, thank you from Dublin, Ireland.
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Muy buena explicación ,
Tengo un montón de excelentes videos en mi canal que cubren a muchos temas diferentes, así que revisa mis listas de reproducción extensa video para otros vídeos de interés, tasa de pulgares para arriba y compartir mi canal con otros. Gracias
Thanks for sharing your knowledge very informative, it
inspired me to focus more making electrical video
You're welcome!
Automation from another vid. 🤦♂️🙄
Great video, very informative. Thanks!
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Really good educational video thank you.
Your welcome Scott! Be sure to share my channel with others, and check out my other videos as well.
Thanks
Very well done. Easy to listen to and follow. thank youl
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First class demo thanks
+Gregor Robertson
You're welcome!
10/19 video thank you very much
Muy bien ilustrado,teniendo en cuenta que los manufactureros NO recomiendan quitar las bujías hasta que el motor se enfrie pero, entiendo que al hacer las .pruebas en frió al conectarlas otra vez para probarlas calientes, las podría dejar menos apretadas para que no vaya a ajustarse mucho da~ando así la rosca estando el motor caliente y así hacer ambas pruebas, Thank's.
Engines usually miss at idle or under acceleration/under load. Can either be a faulty spark plug/high tension lead & or coil pack. Some engines dont have high tension leads, but a coil pack for each spark plug. When you accelerate/more power, throttle butterfly opens increasing air supply into motor. Fuel injectors stay open longer allowing more fuel into motor. Therefore the ignition coil increases voltage for stronger spark under more demanding internal engine conditions. You can also test each individual high tension lead using ohms/resistance scale on your multi meter for either open circuit or very high resistance reading. As a rule of thumb, high tension leads should have anywhere between 7000 to 12000 ohms "per foot lenght" of high tension lead, (7K to 12 K scale). You can also test your ignition coil pack in a rather crude way, like a bush mechanic without any tools. Start your engine, let the motor reach normal operating temperature. Remove nut or bolt that secures each coil pack to the engine. With the motor idling, gently lift the coil pack slightly off one spark plug at a time so you can hear the sound of the spark jumping from the coil pack to the spark plug. Dont lift the coil pack too high off the spark plug. You will hear a specific normal spark rhythum. Your listening for an an irregular/abnormal spark sounding rythum. That will indicate a faulty coil pack. This test is limited to engines you can access the coil packs individually whilst motor is operational. Unfortunately some engines, wont permit this limited test. Be sure to wear rubber gloves & tools that are insulated. Cheers from 🇦🇺
thanks so much, very clear and informative
+Gail Marr
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Very concise , good info. Thanks
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Thanks, learned something new.
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Very helpful and interesting. Thanks for sharing..
carot2003 Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to share.
Informative tutorial thanks for sharing sir !
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One small point to contend... I worked in auto part stores for over 15 years and have learned from reading the indexes that the reach of the ceramic on the combustion side of the plug is what controls the heat range. when the tip is recessed (protected from heat) it will be a cold plug. When the tip is projected into the combustion chamber, you will have more exposure to heat , and more ceramic material to hold the heat. Other than that your video is correct!
+john smith
Hi John. This issue has already been discussed in the video comment area, and I also placed annotations in the video to clarify things I said. :-)
Thanks For Watching!
Excellent
Thanks for the info on this ,very good ,great job ,keep up the great
☆☆☆☆☆ .
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As a Jet Mechanic I am glad you pointed out that the electrode could have cracks that and I might add that sometimes the cracks are not noticeable when the plug is cold but when the plug heats up the electrodes expand and causes a lack of Spark.
It's funny watching this video I just went out and bought a tester this afternoon to test my Spark plugs in my new jet ski that I purchased that is not running and three mechanics have worked on and can't figure out why it wasn't running so I picked it up for 15,000 pesos in the Philippines with a trailer that's worth 25,000 pesos LOL because they couldn't get it running
The motor itself according to the Spark plugs and lack of oil runs properly or did when it shut down so it hasto be a spark issue or electronics issue.
Either way in a short period of time I will have ruled out any breaks in the electronic harness with the tester I purchased this afternoon and from there it can only be power pack which is as you note a sealed unit and must be replaced as a unit as a last resort.
Absolutely ridiculous price of the electronic power pack in a jet ski GSX limited-edition SEA DO,,, $1000 plus shipping but it will be cheap if that corrects the problem considering I just purchased a jet ski worth 4000 American dollars for about $350 with a trailer that's worth more than what I paid for the unit and the trailer itself.
Good upload and I will share it to Facebook.... not that any of the dweebs on my Facebook account would understand what you said LOL
And I subbed your channel
my friend I have been living in the Philippines for five months now and have in a beautiful Apartment with a view of an ocean which is about 50 yards from my apartment and deck which makes my view in Florida look like a Manhattan tenement LOL
I have a white sand beach and Miles beautiful coral right behind the house and I just purchase a jet ski that I am working on in order to travel around the Philippines via the ocean traveling method...
go to my channel then look at all the videos of over 100 I have made of the Philippines is a beautiful place... once you get past the fact that the people are basically not very well educated but are pretty much friendly to the American dollar and to the people and have them so I am enjoying the lifestyle here immensely.
To see where I live you can Google
Wish You Were Here in ALONA BEACH
and thanks for stopping by
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$1000 for the CDI/power pack.....what a bunch of criminals. I would try and remove all the potting material and swap out some components before I bought one. LOL . I would do a continuity test on every wire from point A to point B. My jet ski had one wire that corroded inside the insulation. Luckily I found it.
electronicsNmore that is precisely why I bought the meter a.k.a. to test each and every individual wire in every part of the harness From A to B.
All it takes is a small crack in the insulation in a little bit of salt water and it will corrode internally as you well know.
Plus if I showed you the video I made of the harness you would see that the three so-called mechanics peeled off some insulation about 3/8 of an inch long and twisted the wires together without cleaning the wire itself prior to twisting it which means it may not have any continuity whatsoever because they twisted oxidized wires together not knowing anything about oxidation because they are not mechanics in the true sense of the word.
I however went out and purchased a nice little wire brush some flux 40/60 solder which is still legal in the Philippines I'm the properly spliced them together laterally like this supposed to be.
Went to 12 stores in the last week looking for some heat shrink... and no one even knows what it is here in the Philippines so I purchased some 1/8 inch diameter clear hose used fish tank filters and after the joints are soldered I will put some black high heat silicone over the wire and slipped the tubing over that which I'm sure will be sufficient to keep it from getting wet...
The machine ran perfectly until it was left unattended for a few months and when the man went to start it again it just didn't start so probably the electronics is not the issue and probably more like one of the three fuses I found that were blown??
Do you think? LOL
We shall see,,, it's the 1494 in. cubic centimeter engine and if you look at it in the video I make this week you will say it looks like it just came out of the factory however when you look at all the cannon plugs you can see that the high-quality brass male and females are completely oxidized.
So I will take my little files and drill bits and polish them up in an out.
Between that and a proper soldering job and testing the wires themselves I should have ignition when I'm done with that.
There are some heat sensors on the top of each head and also in the exhaust loop and I'm not sure if they will shut the motor down what I will check those as well and the tubing that goes to the sensors.
This is my first jet ski and it didn't come with a service manual so I will look online I'm sure it's there but only purchase this machine three days ago and this is not my livelihood is now my hobby which I devote 10 hours a day to anyway LOL
If I have any questions I will be sure to bring them up on one of your pages after I do some research on your videos if it is not covered somewhere that I can find?
If I don't I still believe it is something a lot simpler than the power pack and that is my last resort
and you are right it's highway robbery.
Okay my friend thank you for returning my comment and best wishes to you from one mechanic to another.
Michael
Where do you work at? Pratt & Whitney?
HoodwinkedbyanAngel Michael Fazio I am so glad I came across this video and y’alls ‘troubles’ after acquiring these sea-doos. I myself have been given one and it too was a ‘it ran perfectly when I shut it off but will no longer start’ scenario. 👍👍 I say “perfect!” as it too does not have any spark. Seeing as I love electronic/electrical type work I welcome the challenge...and hey, for the price?(free) I am ahead of the game already if it actually does need a part or two. Any recommendations where I should look first on one of these beasts? I have done two stroke ski-doos of all types so that part is pretty familiar, just not their watercraft. You say the ‘power block’ can/may be an issue?..I’m guessing it’s to do with leaking water internally causing it’s many quirks.
Let me leave y’all with one recommendation when cleaning up corroded wires....you will thank me for this later..trust me. Whenever/where ever you have corroded wires needing to be reconnected and you find ‘sanding’ them or ‘scraping’ them with a blade don’t quite do it, try dipping them in muriatic acid from the hardware store. This product is used for cleaning and etching concrete in pools etc. NOW BE BERY CAREFUL WITH THIS STUFF!!! IT IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE AND EXTREMELY TOXIC!! USE IT WHERE THERE IS EXCELLENT VENTILATION AND KEEP CLEAN CLEAR WATER NEARBY TO NEUTRALIZE IT WHEN DONE. It takes only 10-20 seconds of dunking this in the acid and it’s done..clean. Quickly rinse it off with the clean water and dry it off completely. Do give it a few passes with the emery cloth or sand paper to get that brilliant copper shine back which makes it the easiest to solder. I know the good heat shrink is the best but I see not always available. Check for a product called ‘liquid tape’. It’s black in colour and smells a lot like contact cement. (😮 💡 😮☝️👍...did the lightbulb just come on? 👍😉) ...I believe if there is no liquid tape available, you may be able to improvise with the contact cement...I’ll leave that up to y’all to figure out 💡😉🤞👍 Spread this liberally on and over the newly soldered connection right onto the wire’s insulation so no water/moisture can penetrate it. Cover that with electrical tape to help stop any possible abrasions that may occur.
Thank you kindly for any tips you may have for me and I hope mine will come in handy for you. With any luck it won’t take me long to repair it as up here in northern Canada, our ‘Sea-doo season’ is already awfully short as it is..from October to June the ice makes for some powerfully rough and cold boating on a sea-doo anyway. 😆😆😁😄🤣 All the best from a fellow mech. and watercraft enthusiast. 👋👋👋
Good video, thanks for posting!
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Thank You
Very good video..Easy to understand for even a novice like me and your explanations are very thorough.
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Very well done video. You explained it better than I did. (I did a short rant on replacing plugs)
Thanks Bruce.
awesome video as always, thanks very much
Thank you!
Very good video thanks il b trying that later man
Good luck!
Good . Informative video
Very good explanation thanks.
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Very helpful, thanks.
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Good video, very understanding.
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to share with others. Thanks
Many thanks, this was of great help.
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Doug, thank you for your concise and informational video. A couple of questions...is it possible to test plug for spark while it is still in? Also, my specific application involves a non-working leaf blower, therfore i cannot test a "hot" plug; does that matter? My guess is that there are lots of people who are testing their plug because it can't "get" hot! Thanks again. dc
Very informative.
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perfect explanation .thanks
You're welcome!
Good info
it's really helpful video thanks a lot man.
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Awesome video, thanks!!
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thank u for this video keep up the good work
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Awesome Video. thanks for posting! subscribing
+Matt Hernandez
You're welcome!
Excellent work buddy.
Thanks! Please share.
In my opinion it's up to u or whoever is performing that task . Most mechanics should know how to test plugs . If u don't have time to test the plug then replace it . Or if don't have money to burn then test it. Do whatever works best for u .
Very Very Good Bro Tnaks
Thank you
good instruction . I use to clean rifle carbon buildup with vinigar .. don't know if it will work ..?
Good Explanation
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Nice video. I seem to have better luck with the NGK's in small engine applications as opposed to Champions (Federal Mogul). Thumbs up and shared.
Very good job 👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌
Very good teaching 👍👍👍👍
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Great vid!
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The type/brand of plug can indeed matter. I (and some friends) have only ever had good luck with NGK "V-power" plugs in our older cars (mostly V-8's). They last longer/run better,in my (our) experience.
Some newer engines can be picky about the brand of plug as well.
(I've even had good success using the NGK's in place of platinum plugs,in some newer engines.)
Hi,
I never stated different types/brands of plugs did not matter, what I did say is the procedure outlined in this video works on all plugs. In my experience, using split fire / bosch platinum / NGK / autolite, I noticed no difference of performance with my personal water craft, cars, mowers, etc. I can probably switch out a plug that someone insists works better(without them knowing), and they would likely notice nothing.
Thanks For Watching!
Many thanks for the presentation. More, and more frequently, resistor plugs are being used in small engines, Does that resistor further increase the spark's voltage across the terminals ?
i understand some plugs r cheap, but, we had a problem one year going thur champion plugs anywhere from two day to two an hour it was bad, anyway its nice to know how to be able to ck out if a plug is actually done, great video
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very good explanation
+Harris Thiru
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Gracias por compartir ...! , desde argentina.
¡Me alegro que te haya gustado el video! Asegúrese de mis listas de reproducción video extensa para otros grandes vídeos de interés para usted, índice pulgar arriba y compartir. Gracias
Thank you for good info
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What do you think of spark plug blaster cleaner machines?
Well , I have fully rebuilt a Stihl hedge trimmer due to low compression & fitted a new carby due to having a leaking main nozzle check valve, the ignition coil was also replaced due to having no spark.
The spark plug isn't NGK but their electrode resistance is 5 K ohms for their resistor type spark plugs,the plug I have measures 9 K ohms which I am told is too higher resistance which can cause hard starting & rough running , in my case I have a no start issue meaning that despite the spark plug having spark when removed from the spark plug hole there may not be enough voltage at the electrode to fire the air/fuel mixture in the engine.
While the spark plug ran a Briggs & Stratton 4 stroke lawn mower I noticed the motor was harder to start & didn't run as smooth (surged) at medium to low speed (idle) ,actually it stalled at idle with that spark plug.
NGK suggests a maximum of 5 K ohms from the spark plug terminal to the centre electrode,I am off to the auto parts store tomorrow to see if they can supply me with a suitable spark plug.
I see you talk about the resistor in this video as well. The resistor is to stop capacitance after firing of the spark plug. As the ignition system operates, the shielding in the plug wires builds up an electrical capacitance, ( just like a capacitor does). Once this capacitance is so strong, it'll jump the spark plug gap, this isn't good, so they build a resistor into the plug to bleed this stored electrical charge of slowly so that it does not jump the plug gap, and ware out the electrode tip prematurely. It can also lead to pre ignition. The electrically induced noise that you hear over your cars speakers is caused by the alternator frequency change when the capacitor goes bad in the alternator. The capacitor is an electric filter in the alternator, it performs the same job that the capacitor performs in an aircraft magneto p lead, it acts as a filter to filter out electrically induced radio noise. I'm not arguing, I'm just setting the info straight.
Great comment,
wanna chat let me know thanks
Great video. I learned a lot. Thanks
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In the past I measured the resistance of the new plug compared to the resistance of the old plug and gave the plugs a tolerance of 20% . That is how electronic resistors are ; with silver standard being 10% and gold standard being 20% . The plugs I use are cheap and when my cars computer starts tripping codes for bad plugs they are usually around 20% .
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Had to learn this the hard way. Wish I had seen this video first....
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Thank You
You offer good info for the info you have learned and it is kind of you to share this info with the public. I am searching for remedy for a small engine's ignition deficiencies that brought me to your video. However- please do
let me point out that during this video you explain the "heat range" of spark plugs can be determined by the length of the ceramic insulator that remains outside of the combustion chamber during a plug's operation when in fact the exact opposite is the truth. It is the plug's business end that is within the combustion chamber that has a longer or shorter measure of exposed insulation or not that determines the " heat range" of that plug. A small bit of misinformation may have consequence of temporary or possibly immeasurable value. Such value compounds when the misinformed do indeed spread to others what they believed to be the facts. You have had over 1.6 MILLION views of this video, it is that fact which motivated me to point out one important fact of operation.
The "Heat Range" issue was clarified in the video comment section a long time ago. Read my "Pinned" comment. Thank you!
Nice. Thank you.
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New to. Your site. I like small engines to know some basic things on small engines. Watch zippo. And others learning. Have a weed eater one rear rider runs well for a problem rider