How To TEST A SPARK PLUG In 1 Minute
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Chainsaw, lawn mower or weedeater won't start or spark plug has no spark? Here is a fast easy method to diagnose if your spark plug is the problem. This video will show you how to quickly test your spark plug using a basic multimeter for all your small engine equipment.
With this simple and highly effective test you will be able to check for spark plug fire and rule out a bad spark plug. Could it be the spark plug wires, high tension lead, ignition module, coil or on/off switch? It's not always the spark plug at fault, let's rule it out.
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The resistor is there to suppress radio frequency noise which helps protect car radios, mobile phones and engine management systems. AND some ignition modules require a resistor plug to allow the coil timings to work properly.....
Old mechanic once told me to test a questionable spark plug you must first fill a 5 gallon bucket of water, then you must toss the spark plug in the 5 gallon bucket of water, finally observe the spark plug. He then said, "if it sinks then it's bad. Replace it." ;)
Your friend must of been a Navy man
I made spark plugs for 10 years, every brand you can name. Don't believe the bs that one plug brand is better than the other.
@@Weeble_Warbles your friend was crazy.
??? What??? Resistor for suppressing some noisy waveforms? You must be kidding! Chuck in a couple of ferrites will probably be of a better option if that is really your concern.
I'm giving you 5 Stars for your full explanations, detail, thoroughness & product placement. Keep up the good work....
Thanks, will do!
Completely agree
i'm giving him 5 stars for the coors light on the table.
As always, an awesome video and GREAT ADVICE Steve! Whether the others know it or not, all your videos are actually teaching people HOW to troubleshoot and that there is a proper progression to follow... (ie: not just jumping into throwing out the existing plug without checking IF its causing the problem) I was taught that from my (electrician) father over 50 yrs ago, I continue to (try?) and teach that to my sons to this day, but they’re all part of the ‘instant gratification’ society and, like on their video games, want to hit a reset button. To them, the time to just put in a new part... is ‘quicker’. Ask my 30 yr old son that now after buying a new battery for his truck, replacing the starter, THEN calling dad when it still wouldn’t start... Added 20 litres of gas, turn the key, VaRooom! Problem solved!
I agree about the kids and their video games.....I try to teach my 14 year old how to stuff and he gets impatient so fast... they're used to push button instant results.
Thank You... and couldn't agree more....
My uncle taught us to keep checking oil level and coolant when the engine is cold. It will tell you when its empty by no longer running.
WyrGuy2 iii
Haha... I'm trying to teach my 16 year old kid the same thing. Dear Lord give me patience.... why do these kids think that when I'm lookin n thinkin n not speaking.... it's NOT a cue to head back into the house and I'm to "text you when I figure it out"! Jeez! Pulling stunts like that will summon Momzilla....and that crazy lady won't tolerate a lazy smart ass. Even if I have no bloody damn clue what I'm doing!
I'm out here on a wing and a prayer with TH-cam videos and a stubborn ass personality. I hate to pay someone to do something I can learn to do myself. I'm a hard head but I'm finally fixing more things than I'm breaking further....so that's nice.
Thanks for this Steve. Keep them coming.
I'm now single after 30 years and never did anything like this, plus I lived in a major City. After moving to a rural location and needing chainsaws, log splitters, etc, your clear, concise videos are a big help in keeping them running and diagnosing when they aren't.
It's a 3 hour round trip to get a spark plug and You have to order them first.
Repairs are also stupidly expensive even for simple things and it's nice to know whether you are being told truthfully What's wrong, not just have parts replaced to bump the cost.
I've found a woman on her own can run into that sometimes.
You're Welcome...
MrsGraphiteGal
Another quick tip on a chainsaw or other motor, if it is not starting a quick check after trying the choke, and the regular starting instructions. Take out the spark plug to see if it is "bone dry", means there is NO fuel getting into the combustion chamber.Likewise if the electrode part is wet with gas, then you know it is gas fouled-won't run. At least you can know right away what is going on in there right quick if you are far from the shop or far from town etc. Good luck and Smart gal reading and watching this stuff. Also good practice to set your chain brake before trying to start- a sharp chain can cut you when it is not rotating, but not as badly as when it is moving fast.
Thanks Keith. I'm adding to my knowledge every day. Luckily my grandad was a master carpenter and my dad an engineer in the Royal Navy, I think I've inherited some of their creative abilities.
Don't worry, I am VERY careful with the chainsaw, never use it without at least trousers and gloves even when diagnosing it for a few minutes. Although, the guy who services it says not to use the brake when starting as newer chainsaws don't need it and it actually causes problems with the huskies. I still use it, if rather replace a part than my limbs !!
I'm in my fifties now, and I've owned multi-tester meters ever since I was a teenager --- you are absolutely right; even just a simple "no frills" unit is a total life-saver in sooooo many circumstances, such as when you're checking for the presence/level of voltage/current, testing for wire-breaks/shorts, etc.
I recommend better than “no frills” because my USA made fluke was able to find continuity issues in 3 resisters on a Deere mower OSHA safety board (ignition, seat switch, blade-PTO). Sent it to TV repairman who said the resisters were fine using his own Chinese(Communist PRC) multimeter. He was wrong, My fluke was right. Diesel motor had vibrated the wire ends of the resisters to form cracks.
@@hugoglenn9741 Yes, the cheapie ones do tend to break down after a fairly-short time. Even the costlier-model Micronta testers from Radio Shack didn't last --- they suffered worn-away rotary-switch contacts, just like the bargain-bin-grade meters often do.
Hey Steve, I had a beer with you watching your video!!! I learned something today! Only after 50yrs. being a car and ambulance mechanic! I'm learning more and more how to keep the small engines running on my lawn tractor, weed wacker, chain saw, etc. HOW DOES THE OLD SAYING GO, YOUR NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW!!!! THANKS STEVE!!!
Right on buddy!
It's been a pleasure hanging out with you, Steve.
Thank You...
Greetings from TEXAS. The resistor plug in the automotive industry is to help on Radio Frequency Interference for computers and of course the good time radio.
EVERYONE KNOWS THAT THE ''R '' IS FOR RADIO FREQUUENCE INTERFERENCE... if you do not know that then you are uneducated and need to go back to school...
I can remember hearing the engine noise thru my 8 track with regular plugs and solid wires 😂😂😂
Thanks for the "R" explanation. Makes sense after hearing it from you.
You're Welcome...
Ha i thought the "r" stood for racing
@@alanlake5220 same lol
Waist of time just use a screwdriver
Steve, thanks for the spark plug video. I asked several people about a spark plug tester. They said there was not one. Saw your video, and brought a multimeter. Sure beats putting in a new spark plug when the old one is still good. Thanks for saving me money!!!
Glad to help
The old days it was a screw driver but you could just hold it and pull lol
I'm still using your videos when I'm lecturing. You're great! I'm teaching tomorrow and using you and Billy Ray. You really help my boys. You teach really well, at their level. They're between 17-60. You're between saving them and bringing on the next generation. If you're ever in the UK we would love to see you. Thank you so much. p.s, I'll buy the beverage!
Right on Jo...
When I do my pre-season "Get-er-ready" routine, I pull the plug, wire brush it, lightly file it, and re-gap it. I have a 27 year old Honda 8hp Snowblower with the original plug. Do you thing I've gotten my moneys worth out of it yet. I have other 20+ year old engines that I've done the same. Good spark plug toss and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
I thought I was the only person that did that. I'll always try and clean it first before buying a new one unless I'm doing a complete tuneup
I sand blast mine
Measuring eléctrical characteristic of the spark plug, I totally endorse that, thanks for taking the time to make this demonstration
You're Welcome...
I ate hamburgers on Wednesday
Hey Steve
Mate you made my day!
I was testing the riding lawn mowers plugs because its engine was not having the right attitude. It was running, but once you clutch in the mower it did not have the torque it used to have. So I checked the plugs and, R-type, it was showing 4,7K on the one, 12,9 on the other plug. Voila! Problem solved. Thanks to your easy instructions on how to properly test spark plugs.Things can be so easy if you know what you're doing!
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Your videos are great Steve. Thanks for sharing you experience and knowledge. I wanted to share something that I think is relevant to this video. Just because a plug passes the test you outlined in this video does not mean the spark plug is in "good working order". I just replaced a BPR6ES in a mower with a GCV160. The mower would start relatively easy but after about 30 seconds it would die out. I was thinking carburetor\fuel issue but quickly ruled that out. Compression was 90+ psi with decompresor so wasn't too worried about that. The mower had good spark and the plug passed your test, 4850 ohms, and no continuity on the threads\body. The plug had pretty heavy carbon deposits that I cleaned away prior to the test. I replaced the plug anyways and my issue was cured 100%. So the question becomes...were the carbon deposits to blame? If I cleaned the existing plug and reinstalled it would it likely work just fine?
Fantastic, as always. Thank you. Just a small note from an electronics guy: if the dielectric material (ceramic in this case) has a crack, the item which can leak between electrodes is current, not voltage. Love your channel.
Thank You...
Not entirely true. If there is a crack and it is not contaminated, the meter won't find it, but the high voltage coming through the spark plug wire will break down the air in the crack and act like a short. Kind of like a static discharge.
@@EngineerHank, then, there’s the compressed fuel/air mixture within the cylinder to which the energy has to overcome to cause ionization of that mixture. But, you already know this.
Steve, you are the best. Even though I have many years of experience in both electronic and automobile services, I still learn a lot from you regarding the correct resistance for a small engine spark plug. I will watch your videos from now on, there is many things that I don’t have knowledge of, big thanks.
Glad to help
....very worthwhile video. I'd waited till it was dark to test for sparks on the plugs for several old machines or even old new cheap machines I never touched in years. I had a few suspicions, you've pointed out defiinet things to check through. The clincher is some spark plugs have a resistance and 5k is actually a lot . I couldn't understand why all of a sudden one machine no longer showed a healthy spark . I'd been interchanging plugs on the machines . Fancy that , the Dickens you say , never knew plugs could have resistance .
I get free or cheap gas engine machines and i fix them and resell them if they are still good. I hear this all the time. I changed the plug and it still wouldn't run so I bought a new one. Actually it is almost always a dirty carb but I rarely have to trouble shoot a spark plug. i did not know how to test them though so thanks for the great video. now I can make sure the plugs are working properly in machines I sell.
Right on Buddy...
I appreciate your explanation on checking spark plugs. I’ve probably thrown a lot of good plugs away not knowing the proper way to check them. Hopefully this will save me some time and money! Thanks again!
You're Welcome...
Great video.
Valuable info for sure.
When I was a kid,before we had cable tv we had an outdoor antenna.whenever a snowmobile went past the house that didn’t have resistor spark plugs in it the picture on the tv would get fuzzy until the snowmobile got a ways down the road.
Please keep the videos coming
Thanks for sharing
I had an issue with my mower yesterday, I watched several videos but I couldnt solve it. Watching Steve solved lot of my issues also got to learn how to fix my mower. Thank You Sir!
Great to hear!
When I was a VW mechanic back in the sixty, we has a spark plug tester. You cleaned the plug first, check gap, place in tester, some worked fine until you put 120 psi and no spark, a lot of plugs work fine until you put them under compression pressures and then no workie! My two cents worth.
Ive had that. Mower wouldn't start. Tested for spark with the spark plug on the engine casing. Sparked ok. Put back in and engine wouldn't start? Eventually tried another spark plug and the engine ran. It took me about an hour to figure it out plus a lot of swearing!
100%
Paul P how to does it work ???
This is so true. Your 2 cents are needed to buy new plugs lol
Yes! My father was an old time mechanic, and he had a spark plug tester. When I was a kid learning about cars, he demonstrated how a spark plug could spark fine at low pressure, but fail at high pressure. I couldn't believe it when I saw it. I couldn't believe why pressure would make any difference, but it did. It's something I never forgot.
A very useful video, Steve. Thank you. I have often wondered how you could test the plug before replacing it. In the UK they range in price from £5-8.
Right on ...
The other good reason to know how to do this is faulty new plugs. That has happened to me in the past. Sent me off on a wild goose chase. Keep on keeping on. Happy New Years
Thank You...
Excellent simple and clear instruction. Thanks you far all of your content. You present in a very simple and uncomplicated fashion. You are an excellent trainer / instructor.
I appreciate that!
Steve your channel is the greatest, you are very informative with no Bull!!!
I appreciate that!
I've got 16 spark plugs in my truck, at least 8 others between my small engine stuff so this is a nifty diagnostic tool, thank you.
You're Welcome...
Thanks for adding some Spark to my day muchly appreciated ! 😊
Our pleasure!
I was given a Honda Harmony 2 with a bad plug. It ran, but ran terribly. As soon as I replaced the plug, it ran great. Thankyou friend that gave me a free mower. My point is, change the plug if you are experiencing issues that make no sence. Sometimes the plug works, but it may be badly worn or thermally destroyed. If the center electrode is cracked, you cannot see that. Heat and age can and does break down a plug. NGK sparkplugs that are normally in Honda mowers are known for fouling issues over time. I should know. I have had years of experience working with them on snowmobiles and motorcycles.
You scored a bullseye in my books Steve on the spark plug toss , you managed to miss all the beer bottles on the shelf behind you, sweet. Thanks for all your research you do for all your videos. 🍻👍
LOL. Right on Buddy...
That was risky behavior, come to think of it.
QGreat show . For 50 years I had no idea how to properly and easily test a spark plug. Thanks guy and my next bee is in your honor
Glad it helped
Helpful info, but for all non-resistive type of plugs, you will find that your multimeter will not be able to detect a crack in the porcelain insulator inside the body of the spark plug. The spark will jump across that point and also possibly the spark plug as well gap due to the high voltage of the ignition system (depends on where the crack is) but the spark may be very "weak" at the spark plug gap. Your multimeter on the other hand works on very small voltage for continuity and testing resistance so it will not be able to detect the crack in the insulator and as such the multimeter will read open or infinite resistance even though your spark plug insulator may be cracked. There is a case where carbon may build up inside the gap and short out the center conductor to the outside case. In this instance you will see a high resistance reading but it will not be infinite on your multimeter. For resistor type of plugs, these scenarios are also true, however you need to consider the 4.7 K ohm resistor in your measurements. Hope this helps.
If you have a crack in plug you will see it ark once the light is dim no need for mutimeter waist of time
Dale, you are 100% correct. I was going to point that out but did an F3 first and there you are. Thank you.
Thanks for the vid Steve. I once had a problem with a saw that wouldn't start. It had fuel, spark and compression. After checking for spark as I went to install the plug I noticed the center electrode move and slide down until it contacted the ground electrode. When I flipped the plug back to electrode up it slid back showing the proper gap and would give a spark. So while it looked good and passed the spark test, when installed the electrode would move and there would be no gap. I tossed it into the garbage can!
Good to know; thanks Steve. Funny though. I have worked on many dozens of old & newer small engines since 2011 & never had to buy a new plug. I think replacing the plug annually or running out to buy a new one as soon as an engine becomes hard to start (usually fuel related) is a waste. Champion & NGK must love it though!
I agree....
Running out to buy a new plug maybe justified only in situation when you first received a small engine, and it would not start, you narrow down the reason to the freaking thing just won't produce sparks, and it's cunt of thing to take the whole thing apart just to be able to check all possible points of failure in the wiring etc. Provided everything else is equal, you really want to bet on maybe that ugly, no brand, not even straight sob of a chinesium of the chinesium spark plug may be the cause. If it doesn't look right, it usually isn't right. But you never know, you could run into the ugliest shitty looking sparkplug that defy beliefs to be a working one.
Yes Steve great advice. Was north of Inuvik and my chainsaw failed. No spare plug. Found out it was the coil shorting and used some grease from an axle bearing to run down the crack. Got the road opened and back to civilization!
Nice work!
I agree Steve, Coors Light is excellent if you like a light beer, which I do,keep up the great help videos. I'm learning so much from your knowledge here in North Carolina 👍🏻👍🏻👣👣
Rock on!
Everytime I have a question about a chainsaw or other small engine your videos explain it the best. Thanks for posting. Also your intro drive my Anatolian Shepherds crazy!
Thank you Steve some of us need all the help we can get when it comes to small engines
You're Welcome...
Yes definitely so! I’m a class 8 truck mechanic and working on small engines is like walking on Mars,, the videos are great!
Steve, you are right. I am not in this line of business and I don't have a good spare plug sitting around. I need your method to get a yeah or nah of my current plug. Thanks much.
Glad to help
Nice video describing how to test a spark plug. I reacted to two things in this video, you are not doing it wrong. but i feel like adressing it.
Not holding the tip of the mesuringprobes is good practice, but it does not affect the answer you will get at those readings. this is becouse the readout from hand to hand is approx 5 000 000 ohm.
As for the insulation testing. A multimeter will normaly not be able to test with more than 2v. for a more trustworty insulation test it should be tested with an insulation tester with high voltage mesurement(electrician tool wich is to expencive to consider buying for the regular person). however testing it with a multimeter will show if it is totaly flawed.
Thank You...
Yes a megger would be better for checking the insulator, however a decent quality DMM can measure resistance to 50 mega ohm, your body resistance, which can be much lower than 5 meg if sweating, will seriously affect the reading. General all around good practice - don't touch the probes.
Well presented and informative. I would add that testing between the centre electrode and the earth screw thread. Should be an insulation resistance test. This would highlight a breakdown in insulation not picked up a continuity test. I know I got over the top but thought I put it out there.
No this is a good test to do as it is surprising how many times you will find resistance doing that. I don't use those plugs.
Dale in Canada 🍁
Thanks Steve, that was such a well explained step by step explanation 👏
Glad you liked it
Thanks Steve. Working my way through the possible causes of my saw not firing properly. It's a real education!
What I have found works is taking a old push button grill igniter, splicing with an old plug wire and hitting the igniter. So far it's been working for me, on small engines at least
Brilliant idea, I've got one from an old gas boiler. Thanks for that 👍
I enjoy all your videos. My favorite part is drinking an ice cold one. Thanks Coach. We're working on two old chainsaws that still got a lot of work in them, and one weed eater. Carb work on all, and a new coil on one chainsaw. The smaller older chainsaw, the coil measured no continuity. My question is, what burns out these ignition coils on small engines? Is it the heat or just too much use? I can't see any physical damage to the coil, so I imagine the copper coils just burned out. The repair was inexpensive.
Good video I learn something new on every video you post thanks keep up the good work.
Thank You...
Thanks for clearing out the different between R(esistant) plug and the other.
The thumbnail is amazing Steve!😂
Thank You...
I've watched this man's video's for several possible problems and troubleshooting points and the possible causes...I am never disappointed...I only wish I could pop a top or two with him.
Right on Vern! Thank You...
thank you steve! Great video. yes i am one of the guys that might need this video, its a 45 min drive just to get to town, IF anything is still open!
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Thanks for sharing Steve. Ultrasonic cleaning of in service plugs prior to testing is the method I use when servicing power equiptment. USC cleaning is also great for O2 sensors. Best to you and yours.
Love your work. Dont ever quit. Your making this world a better place.
Wow, thank you
Another good article. One issue, though. If the insulator core is cracked, it will indeed most likely cause the spark to short circuit there. But that in itself may not cause your ohmmeter to show the problem, however, until it has gone on for some time and a carbon track has been created. I like to check my plug out of the motor with the wire attached and then pull the rope (in a relatively dark area), and look for the spark. Of course, under compression it is harder for the spark to be created, so there is still a remote possibility that it will spark when not in the engine but fail to spark when installed.
Great Info and info.. Try Founders All Day IPA (Beer) You Sir, and Dony Boy are my 2 favorites for Small Engine know-How!
Thank You...
Dang....talk about spark plugs. Just worked on a Troy Built 105 140cc MTD for a relative. Pulled the plug and left it connected to the coil wire and was getting fire through the spark plug when turning the engine with a drill. (I had already eliminated the possibility of it being a fuel issue.) I'm now thinking timing like crankshaft sheer key issue.....it was perfect. I reset ignition coil gap while I was at it and still could not get it to fire....along comes this video and bingo....I tried a used compatible plug that was in my tiller and the thing runs like a champ. The spark plug was getting spark but there was some issue with the internal electrode that cause the ohm reading to read no continuity when testing it? PS...Coors Light is my go to beer so this video was extra special..lol ! Thanks for you videos.
Good info Steve , I was told once that resistors also protect against interfering with cardiac pacemakers....could this be true?
Never heard that before but it sure sounds legitimate....
Steve's Small Engine Saloon
Bill & Steve: As a guy who’s had a number of pacemakers for u20 some years, I’ve been told not to do any kind of electrical welding and stay away from strong magnet fields - like those generated by MRI machines.
I’ll give Medtronic (the maker of my current (poor choice of words) and past pacemakers and see what they have to say. I’ll get back to you, Bill and Steve.
Roy Lewis
Buffalo, NY
Yes. You are definitely right. Next time when you see any electrical appliance make sure you add a resistor of some kind in the circuit. That way you can be sure that no one with a pacemaker, bionic eyes, ears, arms and legs is endangered by your use of any household appliances. The simplest to add a ton of resistance is to replace the electric wires in the power cable with very fine steel wire, like about hair thin. Its very cheap and effective, you can be sure it draw tons of voltages and that is good, that's what a good resistor is for. And don't you worry about the energy loss through heat, it's winter. Right. And I can guarantee you that you will not have to worry about it showing up in your next electricity bill if you follow my suggestion to the letter.
I read that in my mother’s pacemaker website manual so I can tell you for sure, yes it is true.
I like your approach with the process of elimination, starting with the easiest and working to the hardest.
Right on
thank you Stevie! I just spent 2 days trying to get it t o fire. It was the plug!
here in southern Oregon we have Deschutes beer. Good stuff
As always good tip
One trouble is the multimeter ohm meter is only 1.5 to 9 volts. May show open at that voltage but I'm the engine the spark gap sees thousands of volts and shorts before you can get a spark. Even if you use the out of the engine spark plug test when in the engine the compression of air may be enough to prevent the spark.
The low voltage of the multimeter has fooled people in many other applications
But your experience tells me to try this first. Thanks again 😅
Happy New Year Steve , nice video .! :-) Cheers!
Thank You...
I want to personally thank you myself videos have helped me to make a lot of people happy
You're Welcome...
As a person whose life depended on a VOM, the first thing you test when turning on the meter is continuity thru the test leads and then check it again every few minutes. I guess I'm paranoid. 😁
No, you’re not being paranoid, as a Tech, you’re trained to do this.
Another video without the BS! Great job and a cold beer too, who could ask for anything more?
Right on Jimmy! Thank You...
Another great vid bud :) Always helpful info!
Thank You...
I got a flute multimeter picked up at a yard sale for $25 best deal I got that year about 5 years ago but I had one already not that brand Great videos
Steve , thank you tons for this info . I have like 10-15 pounds of spark plugs just sitting around ...
LOL, ME TOO.....
Learned it all years ago. But still watched the whole vid. Just a refresher course. An you should try Victoria. A mexican beer, an my drink of choice. An my shelf has about 5 times as many brand bottles...
Right on Mike...
First part of the test is good, as far as the integrity of the central electrode is concerned. The second part is wrong. The second part is about the strength of insulation between the two electrodes which a multimeter (common) can't do. Normally a megger (measuring high voltage) is used to check insulation under conditions of high voltage. This can't be done with a cheap multimeter.
I don't think he needs to test the actual resistance between the electrodes. If it is other than zero, throw it away. A megger is a very expensive tool, just to find out if there's a crack in the ceramic insulation.
thx for this comprehensive info on testing s. plugs..I am going to apply this to auto plugs. glad i found it.
Good luck!
Great video, solved my weed trimmer problem
Right on
How many takes total for throwing the spark plug behind you ???? Did you hit any glass on the shelves ????
Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
My thought exactly.
Hahhahahah yes!!!
LOL, you can still see the plug laying on the bench behind me! Honestly, I wasn't even aware I did that at the time!....
If you had hit a bottle we would all be wearing pink ribbons and having one minute silences
I found these smaller engines much more critical of the right plug that it pays to stick with the exact factory plug and not another brand or type when possible and some of the fancy after market ones that are a waste of money.
I rarely have to replace spark plugs in mowers... the mower i use now is a yardman 2004 with a 6.5 briggs...starts with one pull... i bought it used in 2013 i think the plug was just replaced...i never have taken plug out to even look at it... i never heard of a mower getting ruined by a bad spark plug... i change oil every 3 years. and keep air filter chean... i just cut/mulch my 1/2 acre or less yard maybe 25 times each year...No smoking or lack of power,runs strong... i think this 6.5 briggs is a very good engine imo..
Can you replace a non-resistor spark plug with a resistor one? I went to buy a spark plug at my local shop, bringing the original number with me (non-resistor) and the guys there gave me not only a resistor one, but also one with the next higher number. I understand that the next higher number (so, the spark is slightly cooler) might be ok, but they told me that having the resistor wouldn’t make a difference....???? Is that true??
True
Many people do it all the time with no consequences. However Stihl claims that there engines require a resister plug, and if you don't use one it can interfere with the timings in the ignition module (coil)....
Thanks for the replies!!!
Totally agree that we need to repair, Not just replace. While it may be easier to just switch out, it’s not effective diagnostic testing. I want to know what the problem is and why…..this test does that for me. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
Another great video Steve! Very informative, thanks for posting. There’s nothing more Canadian than drinking beer and doing stuff in the garage.
You got that right!
Great demo ! I'm testing my spark plug now
From one a..hole to another, 😂😂 Just trying to make the next top 10 list! What a great video! You are the man brother!✌🏻️
LOL, Thank You...
Excellent explanation for everything
Glad you think so!
Steve when you test a plug like that it could still be bad for the spark must bridge the gap in the dense compressed air as at the end of compression stroke when the air resistance is much higher and thus it may leak the spark through a bad insulator with no spark over the spark plug gap. The spark will allways take the easy path.
Good explanation. Have you tried continuity and resistance check on the new EMS plugs that Briggs & Stratton are using on their new engines? As you probably know, a RC12YC plug is common on most B&S riding mower engines. Some engines now require a QC12YC. It has to do with electromagnetic interference. I have experienced poor performance using RC12YC on the engines that call for this plug specifically.
Very very helpful information. All your videos are real,I have tried them and they have helped me a lot.Lifesaver.👍.May The Lord God Almighty bless your family and your work.
Steve, Your Channel here is indispensable to me....Thanks again for great information/tutorial
You're Welcome...
yes, thanks to you i just found out i have a bad spark plug, it is reading 0.011,7, thank you so much and the numbers keep jumping all over the place as well :0 my spark plus is a F7TC, no R in it and this lawn mower was shipped to me with a bad spark plug as a new mower :0 This lawn mower would start, but man was it a very hard start all the time ok :0
If you want to make it easier testing with the multimeter. You can buy push on style Alligator clips for your probes for about 5 bucks. Cheers from Australia
Right on
Thanks Steve. You’re the best.
You're Welcome...
Steve. Excellent info on spark plugs. I learn some new every video.
Good to hear!
Steve you are my new superhero I like how you explain things
Right on Rod! Thank You...
This is good knowledge to have, thanks for this because I’ve wondered at times if I’ve wasted money buying a new plug.
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I guess it depends. The sparkplugs don't really go bad that easily. If the ceramic lining is broken, ot is most probably because you drop it. When the money is not tight, change them whenever you feel like for as long as it makes you happy. If the money is of a concern then, perhaps do what would do, take the plugs out, clean them, given them a good scrub like its the most previous gem in the world. Check to see if the gap is about right. If not, adjust them accordingly. It's not like the tips would normally worn down to nothing left. There is always the wasteful way, the normal way and the cheap cunt's way to skin a cat.
@@shenghan9385 Personally if it's a tool/vehicle that I really depend on I'll change the plug(s) on a whim. But I think this tip is great for lawn equipment, stuff around the house.
I go bass fishing a lot, sometimes alone, usually in the back country where you don't have cell service, no houses around, and the lake's too big to troll back... So I change all 6 plugs (and more) in my outboard at least once a year, or any time I ever notice the motor sounds a little off... Never test em, but keep the spares in my tool box with a gap tool
Also.. I know a few mechanics at a local car dealership.. They once ordered 2 cases of brand new spark plugs and almost every plug in the 2 cases had hairline fractures... Just because you didn't abuse your plug doesn't mean someone else hasn't
That is a great idea to check the spark plug and determine that it is either the problem or find that you have to look somewhere else for the problem of not starting.
Thanks Sid....
Love your channel, Steve!
I appreciate that!
Nice video Steve, you always learn sometng new. One tech question, if using an outboard and there's no electric or electronic equipment installed onboard will it be better to install a non resistance spark plug. What are the pros and cons of a non R and an R plug with same heat range ?
Thanks, but the coil won't know which type it's used as the coil always produces the same amount of high voltage. For that purpose all electric and electronic parts must be doing their respective homework right. I'm a boater guy that likes running full throttle grip. Have tested both NKG BR7HS-10 and B7HS-10 and there's no water performance difference. BTW motor factory recommends the use of any of both.
I picked up a like new 2 year old snowblower a few years back. Paid just $25 for it. Owner was fed up with it because he couldn't get it to run. I found the plug was bad. Changed the plug and it started right up! You don't always think the plug will fail, but they certainly can!
Hi Steve, you are my new Oprah. thanks for tips.
Welcome!
Very true. One of the best channel. From Belize, C.A
Thank You...
STEVE YOUR A WONDERFULL TEACHER.... LOVE YOUR HUMOR AND ATTITUDE..I DON,T DRINK BEER BUT I DO DRINK COFFEE LIKE CRAZY...JAVAS ON ME.......STAY AWESOME SIR ..!!
Rock on!
If you had been my teacher, I wouldn't have spent 3 yrs in the second grade.
LOL! Thanks Alex...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon me to
Be sure when testing that the tip of the plug is clean. Carbon migrating down the insulator on the outside can reach the 'ground' area of the plug. Differing heights of the tip insulator is what gives different heat ranges. Use higher heat range for oil burners.
Thanks once again Steve, very helpful. My multimeter has the dial, I set it to 20K, it gives readings to two decimal points. You mentioend that some people say that a plug is no good if it reads over 5 but that is not true with small engines. I tried a few NGK BMR79As, one that was in a saw, two brand new. They were all in the 9s, highest was 9.81 that came out of the saw, the new ones were both right around 9.5.