Thank you Peter! We try to keep this same format to all of our videos. The goal is to provide the direct instructions but make sure the "why" is covered as well.
Thank you! As others have said, you provide more helpful advice than other guides. And your explanations are very clear and helpful. The cross-sections views are really great.
Yes, this is the correct method. I change my electric heaters to a ball valve, full port. I have had to run wire or a 3/8 " water line inside to agitate the sediment. Also for the thrifty, turn off the water heater and have a bath before the flush.
You’re smart. Can you come to our house and do this to our Rheem HWHr? We tried to do this guy’s flush today because our current 1 yr. old Rheem replaced an ONLY 4 YR. OLD Rheem still under Warranty that totally crapped out (And WHAT a song and dance getting this accomplished through Rheem🎵 ☹️) Gawd - What a pain-in-the-….. plumbing is.
The back flush with a washing machine advice may have just saved me over $650. My hot water was slow and had low pressure and about a year ago I drained my 16 year old electric HWH. Well that drain was iffy and the low pressure issues came back. The drain valve was clogged and nothing could flow. By putting a washing machine line on a hose, opening a valve in the house and backflushing the tank I was able to get it flowing and flushed. Crud came out and my hot water pressure is like new! Maybe I can get another 5 years out of my HWH now. Yay!! Remember if you do it to open a valve in the home to allow the back flowing water a place to go and to then drain your tank. It took doing it three times on my old HWH.
First video I’ve seen showing to use a washer hose to clear the line!!! Genius!! I have a ton of problems with high calcium in appliances and this trick may help.
Thanks for watching. We're glad that you found it helpful. There is another option that can help in the future. Many people have found it helpful to install a full port 3/4" ball valve. This is shown in this video here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
I've seen some videos unprofessionally rushed trying to show what you just did....This was more understanding and helpful. Thank you, everything worked out well.👍
I watched several videos to get multiple viewpoints. This video was an excellent place to sum up what I'd learned. It was consistent with others while short and to the point.
Our hot water heater [HWH] had not been flushed for more years than I want to admit. Following the directions in this video I got next to no where. Blowing cold water in from the washing machine cold water point 6 times into the HWH didn’t do the trick. So I shut off the HWH drain valve and let my drain hose [laid outside the house] drain until empty. Then I stood on a ladder and using a funnel that fit inside the hose shut off valve on the end of it - I filled the hose with white vinegar. When the hose was full, I shut off the valve on the end of the hose and reconnected it to the cold water hose for the washing machine. I then turned on the cold water to pressurize that hose, opened the valve at the end of the drain hose and then the drain valve on the HWH. In this sashion I blew about a pint of vinegar into the HWH. I did this twice and now the sediment has been disolved enough that water is flowing strongly out of the drain hose.
Thanks for sharing your experience! We try to give enough information to point people in the right direction but there are always cases that are more difficult than others. It's not surprising that after so many years without any flush that it took vinegar to help dissolve the sediment. Cheers.
If you WH is old like mine, after the flush I suggest that you refill the tank slowly. My first time I did not - blasted the water back in with the valve wide open and ended up with a lot of sediment suspended in the tank which = tan colored water. I redid the flush and then Very Slowly filled the tank, progressively opening the valve more as the tank filled but never opening all the way. Made a huge difference. Nice clear water!!
Thanks for showing us how to flush our water heaters. I plan to do this, since I have some time -- because of being unemployed during Corona Virus. Good way to save money and protect the unit.
You're welcome Poe! We're glad that you found the video helpful! If you're curious we have many more videos on our channel. Here's one on Multimeters and Electricity Basics th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
I’m glad you caught that because I was about to correct you myself. That would be problematic. I generally fill up the tank and listen to know that it’s filled. Than I plugged the hot water heater on and let it heat up some for about 15 to 20 minutes than I turn on the faucets. Turning on the faucets in this fashion not only gets the air out but the sediment in the pipes which is why you usually will see brown water for about 50 seconds or so. If you turn on the water before filling the tank you could damage the hot water heater.
If it stops draining and still not empty , just lift the hose up to your height and shake a few times then blow like inflating a balloon if necessary ; OR shut off boiler drain and open water supply, that will move that big chunk of sediment out of the way stirring the bottom of the tank. I usually just connect the hose and open boiler drain, the chunks might break loose with the pressure, and you can hear them rattling in the bottom then combine on and off of water supply and boiler drain till you get good free flow and no more sediment, . Believe me , I'm a plumber and it's been times I had to remove lower heating element to be able to push sediment out, never been flushed in ten, 15 or 20 years.
Very helpful video- thanks! I get parts and supplies from Amre all the time- they are awesome! Knowledgeable staff and fast delivery and I love to support a local company.
*NOTE* At 2:47 the hot water handle is opened. This is an error and the cold water handle should have been opened instead. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing). This wasn't noticed until after filming was complete.
@@UncleFjester Thanks for watching. Removing the video would mean it would lose all interactions, comments, and views and that is something you don't get back. For a reshoot, the error would have to more significant than the difference between the hot and cold handles. This is something that someone can figure out and is why we put this note.
Yep I saw that was going to comment as if you are back flushing and of course have the water to the tank off then use the hot water to supply water back words well oops 😬 not going to work. It would be a good idea to make sure a faucet is open on the hot side to allow the water into the tank.
I and my brother that lives next door to me built our homes at the same time. We put in the same identical hot water heaters, ( Electric & the same Brand ) I had to replace mine after 15 years, my brothers hot water tank is still going strong seven years later. The only difference in our hot water tanks is I flushed mine every year, my brother has never flushed his. The plumber that helped me change it asked me on the phone how much have I flushed it out through the years, I asked him why was that a factor, he explained that water heaters that have been changed by him the majority were changed had been flushed out on a regular basis. I stopped flushing mine. Both my brother and I are on the same well water also, sharing a deep 600 ft deep well.
I’ve seen 30-50 year old tank water heaters. The common ground of all was filtered water. They all had 5 micron filtration prior to water entering the tank. The amount of times the tank fires up is another factor. Pressure is a huge factor. Last common factor is bonding and ground.
Apparently MY WATER is two parts dirt to One part 💧 water. 😤 Or else Rheem electric HWH’rs are the biggest piles of crap on the residential market today.
As a plumber of over 20 years, the best way to get rid of sediment is to cut both copper lines drop that concrete filled water heater and install a new one. I have seen too much sediment run through the house clogging up all the fixtures.
@@AmreSupply I tell my customers if you start from the time the water heater is new you should be okay but if you go back in after a water has been sitting for even only 2 years you run the chance of distributing that lime and scale all over the house
Thanks for watching. As long as the water isn't extremely hot then it should be fine to drain into the sump pump basin. If the water is over 60°C then it might damage sump pump components.
So I would recommend replacing any plastic valves with a brass valve. I have always attached the hose and open the drain. Valve first before turning off supply to heater. After you drain the heater adding a full port hose bib will speed up draining and cleaning in the future
Thanks for watching. You are right that brass valves are the way to go. In this video we show how to replace the drain valve and also outline the 3/4" full port ball valve as an option.
Great instructional video... TIP.. draining tank wirh this approach only works if drain hose is below the level of tank (gravity). I saw people doing it by putting hose into a sink and they wondered why is not working 😕
Thanks for watching. Draining into a sink would only work if the entire hose is full of water as this would create a syphon. Pockets of air inside of the hose might also disrupt the syphon.
Thank you. I had alot of mineral deposits. So toward the end I would open the water valve for a few seconds, bust up the minerals while the spigot remained open. Seemed to work pretty good.
@@AmreSupply pushing water back into the tank as you showed was the biggest help to get it going. Had to do it about 3 seperate times. ❤️ Now the tank seems to reheat faster and hasnt overheated like before.
@@morriskl3 >> Happy it all worked out for you. Our ‘draining’ did not go well. Perhaps it was this pressure release valve on the top of our electric HWHr…. Hubby and I are consulting a divorce atty tomorrow…😮 (😉)
Good video and explanation but I have a suggestion. Replace the tank drain gate valve with a ball valve. You should precious few if any issues with the drain valve clogging, essentially eliminating the need for the back-flushing operation. Also, any dirt, grit, sediment, etc. between the gate valve internal seat and washer when attempting shutoff will otherwise ruin the valve seat and almost guarantee leakage from then on. Just my two sense (cents, lol) from having rental properties.
Thanks for watching! That is a great tip as full port ball valves are rock solid. This is something that we mention in the drain valve replacement video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this. Question: I ended up doing the 20-second flush at least 8 times. Brown water every flush. Finally a friend gave me advice to keep valve open while cold water intake valve is open. At this point the outflow got a little more clear so I called it a night. Also I feel you kind of rushed the part about air flush after the water flush, before turning back on the heater.
Thanks for watching. Thank you for the feedback. Yes for filling the tank you'll have to run water out of a faucet until the water runs clear. This might might take some time.
Thanks for this very clear instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about the water heater banging noise?
Thanks for watching. If the banging happens when you stop the water flow, then that would be water hammer. In your case it seems like the noise happens after water runs for a minute, so it is likely air bubbles rising to the surface and pushing sediment around the inside of the tank. Doing a flush can help reduce the sediment and might reduce the noise.
I always have to lift the little valve at the top of the heater to get the water draining but when I do it works great. Just dont see it much in these videos. I've always needed to do it though even when it was brand new.
Sometimes the relief valve may not close properly after, I've had several that slow dripped after opening as you suggested, all on older units requiring replacing. I don't use them that way any more.
Thanks for watching. Some people do yearly flushes and others do not flush for years. It depends on how hard of water there is in your area. You can do a flush and check and see how much sediment comes out. Also without a full port drain valve, less sediment is removed as the pre-installed valves have a smaller diameter. With a lot of flushing there is a chance that the drain valve might not close properly so that is another factor to consider. The difference is shown here: th-cam.com/users/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
If I'm getting dirty hot water, is it too late? 😢😢😢 Edit/PS. I'm a Grandma lady on a fixed income and have no one to help me. Many of my appliances are broken and there are plumbing problems too. I do what I can to fix it myself and I really appreciate videos like yours! Thank you very much! I look forward to your reply!😊
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help people who are willing to learn. You can do a test to determine if the problem is the water heater or corrosion in the hot water pipes. If you drain a little bit of water out of the bottom and see if that compares to what is coming out of your taps. If it is similar then it is likely sediment from the tank. In this case a tank flush might help. If you flush your tank and drain the sediment and the water is still dirty, then it is likely that tank is nearing the end of it's lifespan. Alternatively if only the water coming out of the hot water faucet is dirty, then it's possible that the pipes between your water heater and your faucet are corroded.
what about using the air release valve in the side of the tank. Don’t you need to open that too? I had seen orher videos do that. Can you explain the process why do or nor do that? Thanks
I don't understand why in the video the back flush is done by opening a HOT water faucet. I would assume that one should open a COLD water faucet, since there shouldn't be any pressure or water in the hot water pipe coming to the faucet - the water supply to the tank is cut off and the tank feeds the hot water pipe feeding the faucet. Am I missing something?
Thank you for watching! You have a good eye and that is one error that made it into the final video. When we filmed that shot we naturally showed did it in a way so the arm wouldn't block the shot. In this case what looked visually good while filming, created a continuity error that went unnoticed until after filming is complete. Unfortunately we can't change that shot now without deleting the video.
@@junkim5331 If you need to do a back flush, yes. A back flush with hot water won't work because you won't have any hot water to use, your tank will be empty.
Before filling water heater is good time to replace anode rod if haven't done so in 5+ years. Also, I would choose opening bathtub valve for air, especially if it has separate hot/cold valves; no need to mess with sink faucet aerators.
Thanks for watching, those are some great tips! We do show how to check the anode in our water heater maintenance guide: th-cam.com/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/w-d-xo.html
We have an electric Rheem with a pressure release valve on top. We followed your instructions and left that pressure valve alone - opening a HW faucet in the house instead. No water would drain. So we decided to back flush, but needed one ☝🏼more female end to run to HWHr. We couldn’t get the female end of the hose loose from the male outdoor spigot. Rusted into eternity. 🤨 NOW, what to do? After a nasty fight, including the temptation to take a wrench to each other, we opened up the cold water valve and flushed about 25 gallons of nice, Softened Hot Water into the yard. We still have to replace the hose spigot with the female end we needed that is permanently rusted to a garden hose (Did I mention hubby tends to TIGHTEN those nuts 🔩 and bolts until almost stripped?) BUT, the source water pipe to the garden spigot won’t turn off, even though the valves below the spigot are turned off…😞🤦🏻♀️ Yeah. Do-it-yourself home maintenance is freaking worth it. 🙇🏻♀️
Thanks for sharing your experience. With time, parts become worn out, rusted and it most certainly adds more variables into any maintenance or repair. It is hard for us to cover all the potential scenarios that can emerge but we did do a video on showing how to remove a broken plastic drain valve: th-cam.com/video/4m1KxuHewHY/w-d-xo.html Still we might do a video in the future talking about what to do with stripped threads and other common mishaps.
It could help to use some chemical like CLR or other had water cleaners to take out some deposits in the tank. They also use vinegar to flush out the hard water deposits.
Thanks for watching. Using something like vinegar is a way to help chemically break apart scale from the tank. The flushing will be mechanical removal of sediment.
You can also try squeezing the hose repeatedly near the valve, to break the sediment loose, if you don’t have an extra washing machine hose to back flush
@@AmreSupply I definitely like your method better; especially, if doing yearly maintenance, as I believe it releases more of the sediment. I use the pumping method, when draining the tank for removal, or have a long run with the discharge hose and no where near a water supply. I just recently found this channel. I have to say that I’m very impressed with the effort and quality of the video, as well as, the accuracy of the content, so I subscribed immediately. I look forward to watching more videos and keep up the good work.
@@johnharrison5656 Thank you for subscribing! It's good to have the quality recognized. There is a lot of content out there and one of our main goals was to make it easy to understand and accessible. This meant putting more time into research and writing scripts as well as making graphics. We just finished a series on oven and stove repairs which we're happy with th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html and are currently working on refrigerator repairs which will come out in 2022. Cheers!
At time of installation have the plumber replace that highly restrictive hose bib. A 3/4 nipple, full port IP valve and hose adapter will turn a future lengthy flush job into a fast effective walk in the park.
Thanks for watching! Yes the full port ball valve works great. For anyone wondering these are the parts needed: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
I didn't mean to sound rude or anything like that I really appreciate your video I thought it was great it actually showed me a few things about the back flush that I never thought about so thank you for that I'm sorry if I sounded like I said like an a-hole I didn't mean to be that way appreciate the bed and I'll watch more of that you have I'll subscribe
Thanks for subscribing, we appreciate the support! The comment was perfectly fine, and we're happy to hear any constructive criticism along the way. We strive to make all of our videos informative and accurate, and I think you'll find some of our other videos interesting. Here's one on multimeter and electricity basics. Its a good video as a review or to learn more about these concepts: th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
I ran the water from the flush hose thru a cone shaped coffee filter to see what came out jut make sure you tie wrap the filter on the hose or run the water discharge at a slow rate.
I just replaced a 4 year old 40 gallon gas Rheem with an A.O. Smith. If memory serves, the first year I tried to flush it out it drained very very slow. I don't think the tank ever drained all the way. So after leaving the drain valve opened for most of the day hardly any water came out. When I disconnected the unit...sure enough, it was full of water and heavy as ever. I left the drain valve opened and smashed it off with a hammer and I could see calcium deposits completely covering the hole. I took a screw driver and jammed it in and then the water came pouring out fast with lots of pressure shooting out about 3 feet at first. I noticed even on the new unit that when I drained it for a minute it wasn't even that fast. Not even close. Are these units outfitted with a drain valve that is purposely small so it will catch calcium build up over time so you have to replace the unit sooner? Water is so hard here in Phoenix I am going to drain quarterly and monitor the pressure output as time goes by.
Thanks for watching. The factory installed valves are more prone to clogging as the opening is not very large. To prevent this you can easily make a new drain valve using a full port brass ball valve. This is shown here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply my drain valve is plastic with a hose connection and then he screwdriver release on it. I'm hoping since it's a brand new water heater that it will be easy to remove. Thanks again for your help
@@mykylc You're welcome, we're just happy to help in what small way we can. Thanks for the update, we're glad that the repair went smoothly, the ball valve is definitely a good upgrade to have!
Question here please. My tank has 8 year warranty, I'm on the 9th. Ive never drained it until now. I agitated the bottom many times and finally got the tank to run clear. Problem is inside hot water is still off colour. I live in Vancouver, BC for location. Evety plumber says I need a new tank. Is there more I can do?
Thanks for watching. There might have been some very fine sediment that is now floating in the tank. After a shower or two that will likely disperse. If the tank is still heating effectively you might not need a new one. Has the water started to run clear now?
This video is the only one that tells you that you might need to back flush. I greatly appreciate that and Great work in the video tutorial!
Thank you Josh, we're glad that you found these details helpful! We try to make all our videos detailed and thorough!
@@AmreSupply ...and for that reason is why I subscribed!
The best flushing video I have seen on TH-cam. Exact and to the point.
Thank you Peter! We try to keep this same format to all of our videos. The goal is to provide the direct instructions but make sure the "why" is covered as well.
The best tutorial on flushing I've seen on TH-cam
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Thank you! As others have said, you provide more helpful advice than other guides. And your explanations are very clear and helpful. The cross-sections views are really great.
You're welcome Boris, we try to make sure every video is straight forward and informative!
First step: install a drain in your basement floor
Yes, this is the correct method. I change my electric heaters to a ball valve, full port. I have had to run wire or a 3/8 " water line inside to agitate the sediment. Also for the thrifty, turn off the water heater and have a bath before the flush.
Thanks for watching. We're glad to hear that you also made the upgrade to the ball valve! Cheers
You’re smart. Can you come to our house and do this to our Rheem HWHr?
We tried to do this guy’s flush today because our current 1 yr. old Rheem replaced an ONLY 4 YR. OLD Rheem still under Warranty that totally crapped out (And WHAT a song and dance getting this accomplished through Rheem🎵 ☹️)
Gawd - What a pain-in-the-….. plumbing is.
I hooked my line to my washer supply hose to back flush it and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for watching Barry, we're glad that tip worked for you!
Same! The greatest DIY tip I have gotten in a while.
The back flush with a washing machine advice may have just saved me over $650. My hot water was slow and had low pressure and about a year ago I drained my 16 year old electric HWH. Well that drain was iffy and the low pressure issues came back. The drain valve was clogged and nothing could flow. By putting a washing machine line on a hose, opening a valve in the house and backflushing the tank I was able to get it flowing and flushed. Crud came out and my hot water pressure is like new! Maybe I can get another 5 years out of my HWH now. Yay!! Remember if you do it to open a valve in the home to allow the back flowing water a place to go and to then drain your tank. It took doing it three times on my old HWH.
Thank you for sharing your experience. We're glad that the backflushed worked!! Best of luck that you get a few more years out of your water heater!
First video I’ve seen showing to use a washer hose to clear the line!!! Genius!!
I have a ton of problems with high calcium in appliances and this trick may help.
Thanks for watching. We're glad that you found it helpful. There is another option that can help in the future. Many people have found it helpful to install a full port 3/4" ball valve. This is shown in this video here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
This video saved me from a costly flood. I was able to stop the leaking water heater and drain it correctly. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're glad to hear that the video helped you!
Why or what caused it to leak? Sorry if dumb question
I've seen some videos unprofessionally rushed trying to show what you just did....This was more understanding and helpful. Thank you, everything worked out well.👍
Thank you, we're just glad people are finding these videos helpful!
Great video. Explains everything needed in a fraction of the time. Thank You.
You're welcome Melanie, we're glad that you found it helpful!
I watched several videos to get multiple viewpoints. This video was an excellent place to sum up what I'd learned. It was consistent with others while short and to the point.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Our hot water heater [HWH] had not been flushed for more years than I want to admit. Following the directions in this video I got next to no where. Blowing cold water in from the washing machine cold water point 6 times into the HWH didn’t do the trick. So I shut off the HWH drain valve and let my drain hose [laid outside the house] drain until empty. Then I stood on a ladder and using a funnel that fit inside the hose shut off valve on the end of it - I filled the hose with white vinegar. When the hose was full, I shut off the valve on the end of the hose and reconnected it to the cold water hose for the washing machine. I then turned on the cold water to pressurize that hose, opened the valve at the end of the drain hose and then the drain valve on the HWH. In this sashion I blew about a pint of vinegar into the HWH. I did this twice and now the sediment has been disolved enough that water is flowing strongly out of the drain hose.
Thanks for sharing your experience! We try to give enough information to point people in the right direction but there are always cases that are more difficult than others. It's not surprising that after so many years without any flush that it took vinegar to help dissolve the sediment. Cheers.
I've been putting off learning how to do this for years (okay, decades). THANKS!
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
If you WH is old like mine, after the flush I suggest that you refill the tank slowly. My first time I did not - blasted the water back in with the valve wide open and ended up with a lot of sediment suspended in the tank which = tan colored water. I redid the flush and then Very Slowly filled the tank, progressively opening the valve more as the tank filled but never opening all the way. Made a huge difference. Nice clear water!!
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Thanks for showing us how to flush our water heaters. I plan to do this, since I have some time -- because of being unemployed during Corona Virus. Good way to save money and protect the unit.
You're welcome Poe! We're glad that you found the video helpful! If you're curious we have many more videos on our channel. Here's one on Multimeters and Electricity Basics th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
Detailed perfectly on both electric and gas water heaters. Thank you for this video. Greatly appreciate it.
You're welcome Madelyn, we're glad that you found the video helpful!
@@AmreSupply you saved me 😊
Did NOT go so smoothly for us.
I’m glad you caught that because I was about to correct you myself. That would be problematic. I generally fill up the tank and listen to know that it’s filled. Than I plugged the hot water heater on and let it heat up some for about 15 to 20 minutes than I turn on the faucets. Turning on the faucets in this fashion not only gets the air out but the sediment in the pipes which is why you usually will see brown water for about 50 seconds or so. If you turn on the water before filling the tank you could damage the hot water heater.
Thanks for watching. Also those are solid tips!
Tank Water Heater is very conveniently , I truly recommend !!!
Thanks for watching!
Tip: Remove aerators from faucets before this! Return after you have filled tank and flushed out lines a bit.
Thanks, that is a solid tip!
THank you for making me look like a Hoss with the wife and kids, this was easy and very informative. Thank you again, liked and subbed
Glad it was helpful, and thank you for the subscription!
If it stops draining and still not empty , just lift the hose up to your height and shake a few times then blow like inflating a balloon if necessary ; OR shut off boiler drain and open water supply, that will move that big chunk of sediment out of the way stirring the bottom of the tank. I usually just connect the hose and open boiler drain, the chunks might break loose with the pressure, and you can hear them rattling in the bottom then combine on and off of water supply and boiler drain till you get good free flow and no more sediment, . Believe me , I'm a plumber and it's been times I had to remove lower heating element to be able to push sediment out, never been flushed in ten, 15 or 20 years.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Those are some good tips!
Very helpful video- thanks! I get parts and supplies from Amre all the time- they are awesome! Knowledgeable staff and fast delivery and I love to support a local company.
Thank you Levi for your kind words, we're just happy to help in-store or here on TH-cam!
It took me a few hours to fine something useful. Thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Best instroctional video sofar.
I knew I could count on the Canadians!
Thank you, we're just happy to help!!
Thank you for this video it was very informative I will have to start doing this on a regular basis
You're welcome we're just happy to help!
Thank you! I liked your clear explanations and step-by-step advice. Going to try this now!
You're welcome Heather! We're glad you found the video helpful!
What about my video
Merci ! Excellent video .....just finished flushing and your video proved to be of immense assistance....now I can impress my friends !
You're welcome Glenn! We're glad that the video helped you out!
Thanks Amre Supply for such good video !
You're welcome Hemayet, we're glad you found it helpful!
*NOTE* At 2:47 the hot water handle is opened. This is an error and the cold water handle should have been opened instead. When filming these videos we often film multiple takes at different times and the pieces are edited together afterwards. During the backflushing shot we did what visually looked best on camera (moving the closest handle) while not realizing it was the wrong handle (which not would result in any water flowing). This wasn't noticed until after filming was complete.
So take down the video and reshoot it!
I was wondering!
@@UncleFjester Thanks for watching. Removing the video would mean it would lose all interactions, comments, and views and that is something you don't get back. For a reshoot, the error would have to more significant than the difference between the hot and cold handles. This is something that someone can figure out and is why we put this note.
Yep I saw that was going to comment as if you are back flushing and of course have the water to the tank off then use the hot water to supply water back words well oops 😬 not going to work.
It would be a good idea to make sure a faucet is open on the hot side to allow the water into the tank.
I and my brother that lives next door to me built our homes at the same time. We put in the same identical hot water heaters, ( Electric & the same Brand ) I had to replace mine after 15 years, my brothers hot water tank is still going strong seven years later. The only difference in our hot water tanks is I flushed mine every year, my brother has never flushed his. The plumber that helped me change it asked me on the phone how much have I flushed it out through the years, I asked him why was that a factor, he explained that water heaters that have been changed by him the majority were changed had been flushed out on a regular basis. I stopped flushing mine. Both my brother and I are on the same well water also, sharing a deep 600 ft deep well.
I’ve seen 30-50 year old tank water heaters. The common ground of all was filtered water. They all had 5 micron filtration prior to water entering the tank. The amount of times the tank fires up is another factor. Pressure is a huge factor. Last common factor is bonding and ground.
Thanks for sharing. Its not common to have all the right factors in place for 50 years of service but it does happen.
Apparently MY WATER is two parts dirt to One part 💧 water.
😤
Or else Rheem electric HWH’rs are the biggest piles of crap on the residential market today.
Best video of all time
Thank you, we're glad you found it helpful!
Straight and to the point. Thank you
You're welcome Melissa!
As a plumber of over 20 years, the best way to get rid of sediment is to cut both copper lines drop that concrete filled water heater and install a new one. I have seen too much sediment run through the house clogging up all the fixtures.
Hi Vinny thanks for sharing your experience. What do you think about regular or yearly flushing as a way to prevent a buildup of sediment?
@@AmreSupply I tell my customers if you start from the time the water heater is new you should be okay but if you go back in after a water has been sitting for even only 2 years you run the chance of distributing that lime and scale all over the house
Can we drain the water to the sump tanks drain?
Thanks for watching. As long as the water isn't extremely hot then it should be fine to drain into the sump pump basin. If the water is over 60°C then it might damage sump pump components.
Great quick how to! Saved me 👍. Thanks! 😊
Glad it helped!
Fantastic video. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful & to the point video.
Thanks
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Unclogging it by connecting a hose from a faucet to the drain pipe did the trick!
Thanks for watching, we're glad to hear that it worked!
Great 👍 very professionally done and explained
Thank you
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
An ideal instructional. Thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Both clear and concise video
Thanks for watching!
So I would recommend replacing any plastic valves with a brass valve. I have always attached the hose and open the drain. Valve first before turning off supply to heater. After you drain the heater adding a full port hose bib will speed up draining and cleaning in the future
Thanks for watching. You are right that brass valves are the way to go. In this video we show how to replace the drain valve and also outline the 3/4" full port ball valve as an option.
Great instructional video... TIP.. draining tank wirh this approach only works if drain hose is below the level of tank (gravity). I saw people doing it by putting hose into a sink and they wondered why is not working 😕
Thanks for watching. Draining into a sink would only work if the entire hose is full of water as this would create a syphon. Pockets of air inside of the hose might also disrupt the syphon.
Thank you. I had alot of mineral deposits. So toward the end
I would open the water valve for a few seconds, bust up the minerals while the spigot remained open. Seemed to work pretty good.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@@AmreSupply pushing water back into the tank as you showed was the biggest help to get it going. Had to do it about 3 seperate times. ❤️ Now the tank seems to reheat faster and hasnt overheated like before.
@@morriskl3 >> Happy it all worked out for you. Our ‘draining’ did not go well. Perhaps it was this pressure release valve on the top of our electric HWHr….
Hubby and I are consulting a divorce atty tomorrow…😮
(😉)
Thank you for this video you saved me big money
You're welcome! We're glad the the video helped you out!
Best video ever thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks so much for this vid and the other one about replacing the pressure release valve- mine was dripping. Great info.
You're welcome! We're just glad that the videos are helping!
Very good explanation. Thank you.
You're welcome Robert!
Excellent video!🤙
Thank you!
Great instructional video!
Thank you Doug!
Well done video. Clear and full of details. Thanks
Thank you Olivier, we're glad you found the video clear and informative!
lol As soon as I get one one this will come in handy. Last tank lasted 19 years before I had to shut it down.
Thanks for watching. When you get your new tank, you might find a ball valve helpful: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. Love the step by step explanation.
You're welcome, we're glad that you found the steps helpful!
Very nice thanks you
You're welcome!
@@AmreSupply thanks you will come
very good explanation
Thank you Anil! We're glad you found it helpful!
Good information. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Nice job!
Thank you!
Very detailed thanks for sharing
You're welcome!!
Great video and showed me what I was doing wrong. Thank you
You're welcome! We're glad that it was helpful!
Great vid! Thank you
You're welcome!
Good video and explanation but I have a suggestion. Replace the tank drain gate valve with a ball valve. You should precious few if any issues with the drain valve clogging, essentially eliminating the need for the back-flushing operation. Also, any dirt, grit, sediment, etc. between the gate valve internal seat and washer when attempting shutoff will otherwise ruin the valve seat and almost guarantee leakage from then on. Just my two sense (cents, lol) from having rental properties.
Thanks for watching! That is a great tip as full port ball valves are rock solid. This is something that we mention in the drain valve replacement video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Great video!! Clear instructions. Able to flush my water heater.👍
Thank you Sairam! We're glad that the video helped you out!
What is the reason a water heater should be flushed?
My shower is coming out a yellowish brown color, would flushing it fix that?
THANK YOU FOR A GREAT PIECE OF INFORMATION, EXCELLENT
You're welcome, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Thanks for this. Question: I ended up doing the 20-second flush at least 8 times. Brown water every flush. Finally a friend gave me advice to keep valve open while cold water intake valve is open. At this point the outflow got a little more clear so I called it a night.
Also I feel you kind of rushed the part about air flush after the water flush, before turning back on the heater.
Thanks for watching. Thank you for the feedback. Yes for filling the tank you'll have to run water out of a faucet until the water runs clear. This might might take some time.
Thanks for this very clear instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about the water heater banging noise?
Thanks for watching. If the banging happens when you stop the water flow, then that would be water hammer. In your case it seems like the noise happens after water runs for a minute, so it is likely air bubbles rising to the surface and pushing sediment around the inside of the tank. Doing a flush can help reduce the sediment and might reduce the noise.
Great video thanks for sharing
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you so much... your videos are excellent!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help out!
I always have to lift the little valve at the top of the heater to get the water draining but when I do it works great. Just dont see it much in these videos. I've always needed to do it though even when it was brand new.
Thanks for watching. You are right that the relief valve can also be used to purge the air in the system.
Sometimes the relief valve may not close properly after, I've had several that slow dripped after opening as you suggested, all on older units requiring replacing. I don't use them that way any more.
Great video! 👍 Thanks for the excellent info!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
New subscriber here 😊
Thanks for the subscription! Hope you enjoy our other videos!
Thanks, I did it!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you out!
Great information
Thank you!
Thanks so much.Very detail
You're welcome Tyrone!
Very Good, Thank You
You're welcome!
Thank you for this! 😘
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Great video! How often is it needed to do this?
Thanks for watching. Some people do yearly flushes and others do not flush for years. It depends on how hard of water there is in your area. You can do a flush and check and see how much sediment comes out. Also without a full port drain valve, less sediment is removed as the pre-installed valves have a smaller diameter. With a lot of flushing there is a chance that the drain valve might not close properly so that is another factor to consider. The difference is shown here: th-cam.com/users/shortsC3-eTMsbO40
If I'm getting dirty hot water, is it too late? 😢😢😢
Edit/PS. I'm a Grandma lady on a fixed income and have no one to help me. Many of my appliances are broken and there are plumbing problems too. I do what I can to fix it myself and I really appreciate videos like yours! Thank you very much! I look forward to your reply!😊
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help people who are willing to learn. You can do a test to determine if the problem is the water heater or corrosion in the hot water pipes. If you drain a little bit of water out of the bottom and see if that compares to what is coming out of your taps. If it is similar then it is likely sediment from the tank. In this case a tank flush might help. If you flush your tank and drain the sediment and the water is still dirty, then it is likely that tank is nearing the end of it's lifespan.
Alternatively if only the water coming out of the hot water faucet is dirty, then it's possible that the pipes between your water heater and your faucet are corroded.
@@AmreSupply Thank you very much! I can't tell you how helpful this is to me and I'll check it out! 😊👍
Thanks sooo much!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Nothing beats my Rinaii tankless water heater. Over 20 years old and not one issue.
Tankless water heaters are great! We will likely return to this series and do some videos on tankless water heaters sometime in the future.
what about using the air release valve in the side of the tank. Don’t you need to open that too? I had seen orher videos do that. Can you explain the process why do or nor do that? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If you open a hot water faucet when you drain the tank, it will release the air, so either will work.
I don't understand why in the video the back flush is done by opening a HOT water faucet. I would assume that one should open a COLD water faucet, since there shouldn't be any pressure or water in the hot water pipe coming to the faucet - the water supply to the tank is cut off and the tank feeds the hot water pipe feeding the faucet. Am I missing something?
Thank you for watching! You have a good eye and that is one error that made it into the final video. When we filmed that shot we naturally showed did it in a way so the arm wouldn't block the shot. In this case what looked visually good while filming, created a continuity error that went unnoticed until after filming is complete. Unfortunately we can't change that shot now without deleting the video.
So I should turn on my cold water, not hot water for the faucet?
@@junkim5331 If you need to do a back flush, yes. A back flush with hot water won't work because you won't have any hot water to use, your tank will be empty.
Got it! Opened the pressure value and it started draining!
good job # 1
Thank you!
Before filling water heater is good time to replace anode rod if haven't done so in 5+ years.
Also, I would choose opening bathtub valve for air, especially if it has separate hot/cold valves;
no need to mess with sink faucet aerators.
Thanks for watching, those are some great tips! We do show how to check the anode in our water heater maintenance guide: th-cam.com/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/w-d-xo.html
I replaced my anode rod and flushed too
We have an electric Rheem with a pressure release valve on top.
We followed your instructions and left that pressure valve alone - opening a HW faucet in the house instead.
No water would drain.
So we decided to back flush, but needed one ☝🏼more female end to run to HWHr. We couldn’t get the female end of the hose loose from the male outdoor spigot. Rusted into eternity. 🤨
NOW, what to do?
After a nasty fight, including the temptation to take a wrench to each other, we opened up the cold water valve and flushed about 25 gallons of nice, Softened Hot Water into the yard.
We still have to replace the hose spigot with the female end we needed that is permanently rusted to a garden hose (Did I mention hubby tends to TIGHTEN those nuts 🔩 and bolts until almost stripped?)
BUT, the source water pipe to the garden spigot won’t turn off, even though the valves below the spigot are turned off…😞🤦🏻♀️
Yeah.
Do-it-yourself home maintenance is freaking worth it. 🙇🏻♀️
Thanks for sharing your experience. With time, parts become worn out, rusted and it most certainly adds more variables into any maintenance or repair. It is hard for us to cover all the potential scenarios that can emerge but we did do a video on showing how to remove a broken plastic drain valve: th-cam.com/video/4m1KxuHewHY/w-d-xo.html Still we might do a video in the future talking about what to do with stripped threads and other common mishaps.
It could help to use some chemical like CLR or other had water cleaners to take out some deposits in the tank. They also use vinegar to flush out the hard water deposits.
Thanks for watching. Using something like vinegar is a way to help chemically break apart scale from the tank. The flushing will be mechanical removal of sediment.
How do you even "introduce" CLR to the hot water heater tank?
You forget clean that faucet aerator thanks for you video
You're welcome.
You can also try squeezing the hose repeatedly near the valve, to break the sediment loose, if you don’t have an extra washing machine hose to back flush
Thanks for watching. That is a great tip!
@@AmreSupply I definitely like your method better; especially, if doing yearly maintenance, as I believe it releases more of the sediment. I use the pumping method, when draining the tank for removal, or have a long run with the discharge hose and no where near a water supply.
I just recently found this channel. I have to say that I’m very impressed with the effort and quality of the video, as well as, the accuracy of the content, so I subscribed immediately. I look forward to watching more videos and keep up the good work.
@@johnharrison5656 Thank you for subscribing! It's good to have the quality recognized. There is a lot of content out there and one of our main goals was to make it easy to understand and accessible. This meant putting more time into research and writing scripts as well as making graphics. We just finished a series on oven and stove repairs which we're happy with th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html and are currently working on refrigerator repairs which will come out in 2022. Cheers!
@@AmreSupply Thanks I’ll check it out.
At time of installation have the plumber replace that highly restrictive hose bib. A 3/4 nipple, full port IP valve and hose adapter will turn a future lengthy flush job into a fast effective walk in the park.
Thanks for watching! Yes the full port ball valve works great. For anyone wondering these are the parts needed: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
I didn't mean to sound rude or anything like that I really appreciate your video I thought it was great it actually showed me a few things about the back flush that I never thought about so thank you for that I'm sorry if I sounded like I said like an a-hole I didn't mean to be that way appreciate the bed and I'll watch more of that you have I'll subscribe
Thanks for subscribing, we appreciate the support! The comment was perfectly fine, and we're happy to hear any constructive criticism along the way. We strive to make all of our videos informative and accurate, and I think you'll find some of our other videos interesting. Here's one on multimeter and electricity basics. Its a good video as a review or to learn more about these concepts: th-cam.com/video/r_migcta_Is/w-d-xo.html
I did that and it was clean
Thanks for watching. If the water is clean you likely don't have much sediment.
Modern water heaters have dip tubes that stir the bottom of the tank
Thanks for watching. You are right that the dip tubes release water close to the bottom of the tank.
Great video thank you
You're welcome, we're glad you liked the video!
I ran the water from the flush hose thru a cone shaped coffee filter to see what came out jut make sure you tie wrap the filter on the hose or run the water discharge at a slow rate.
Thanks for watching. Using a coffee filter is definitely a good way to see what was in your tank.
Excelente
Thank you!
If we have a sediment issue should we expect to see the sediment flush out of the hose as we drain the tank?
Thanks for watching. Depending on the size of the sediment you should see some.
Thank You 👍 ！
You're welcome!
I just replaced a 4 year old 40 gallon gas Rheem with an A.O. Smith. If memory serves, the first year I tried to flush it out it drained very very slow. I don't think the tank ever drained all the way. So after leaving the drain valve opened for most of the day hardly any water came out. When I disconnected the unit...sure enough, it was full of water and heavy as ever. I left the drain valve opened and smashed it off with a hammer and I could see calcium deposits completely covering the hole. I took a screw driver and jammed it in and then the water came pouring out fast with lots of pressure shooting out about 3 feet at first. I noticed even on the new unit that when I drained it for a minute it wasn't even that fast. Not even close. Are these units outfitted with a drain valve that is purposely small so it will catch calcium build up over time so you have to replace the unit sooner? Water is so hard here in Phoenix I am going to drain quarterly and monitor the pressure output as time goes by.
Thanks for watching. The factory installed valves are more prone to clogging as the opening is not very large. To prevent this you can easily make a new drain valve using a full port brass ball valve. This is shown here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply I'm learning this as I go. Thanks so much I'll check it out when I get back to my place.
@@AmreSupply my drain valve is plastic with a hose connection and then he screwdriver release on it. I'm hoping since it's a brand new water heater that it will be easy to remove. Thanks again for your help
@@AmreSupply Got it done today. Makes all the difference!!! Thanks again.
@@mykylc You're welcome, we're just happy to help in what small way we can. Thanks for the update, we're glad that the repair went smoothly, the ball valve is definitely a good upgrade to have!
Question here please. My tank has 8 year warranty, I'm on the 9th. Ive never drained it until now. I agitated the bottom many times and finally got the tank to run clear. Problem is inside hot water is still off colour. I live in Vancouver, BC for location. Evety plumber says I need a new tank. Is there more I can do?
Thanks for watching. There might have been some very fine sediment that is now floating in the tank. After a shower or two that will likely disperse. If the tank is still heating effectively you might not need a new one. Has the water started to run clear now?
Thank you.
You're welcome Jose!