Another source of a leak can be the heating elements in electric water heaters. We haven't filmed the repair videos for electric water heaters yet but these repairs will be added in a future series update.
That is what I was going to say, my gasket on the heating element was leaking, even though the element was still working it was corroded pretty bad in some areas so I just replaced it with new element and gasket
Why isn't this video on the top list? This the most helpful, concise video. Wasted time watching three other videos before I got to this. Thanks and much appreciated.
Thanks for watching. Some of our videos make it to the top of the searches but there are a lot of videos out there so it takes a while for these to grow in momentum. Fortunately all of these likes and comments help give the video a boost!
Thank you, we're just glad to put out detailed and informative videos! If you're curious we just finished a 78 video series on refrigerator repairs. One of our biggest series and it's worth a bookmark for future reference: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBzhqc0A8H9bxFjaJSEvY18y.html Cheers!
@@AmreSupply yes, I saw it and helped me to clean my clogged drain tube and fixed the leaking problem. Even different model, the fixing ideas are the same and transferable.
Thank you! We have many more videos on our TH-cam channel. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is great for general knowledge: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
Went to Home Depot for a new elec HWH. Being elderly and disabled I asked about installation. They wanted $579 for the HWH, $1187 install, and $150 for a permit??? I laughed and paid $79 for delivery. It took me longer to carefully muscle that HWH down the basement steps and up onto the 2' base than it did to hook up the water and power.
Thanks so much. I have a rheem water heater and called the support line where they were trying to guide me through finding the leak over the phone and it was no help. I opened the door same as you mentioned at the end of the video and found out it was rusted out. Rheem never even had me check!
I think we have get a new hot tank because the water is coming out of two spots on ours but how do you stop the leaking for a while to wait when you are get a new one?
Thanks for watching. If you have a leak, then shut off the water supply and try to narrow down where the leak is coming from. If it is from the tank then 40 gallons will produce a lot of water. If the leak is in an accessible place, then something like a waterproof patch seal tape could be used to temporarily stop the water from coming out. In other cases the spot is more difficult to isolate.
Question (01.05.2025): Do i need to turn off the tank water heater and drain the water first before removing/replacing the drain valve assembly? Can i do this myself or should i call the technician? Please advise. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. If you can narrow it down to the drain valve or the main control valve, then those could be fixed. If the tank walls are damaged and leaking, then the entire water heater should be replaced.
We have alot of water coming out around the cold water inlet. The nipple seems to be tight. Where could this be coming from? Do I need to remove the top cover from the tank?
Thanks for watching. If you look closely there are several connection points. There is where the nipple screws into the tank itself which is usually several inches below the top, as well there is the connection of the water supply line as it joins to the nipple. To inspect the lower connection there might be a small circular plastic cover, or some insulation that you might need to remove before you see it. If water seems to be rising up then it's likely that lower connection. Like any leak you can dry the spot completely and see where the water returns.
@AMRE I have water leaking from behind the pressure relief valve. it looks like it is coming from behind that white circular gasket. what repair would you recommend for this? thank. you
Thanks for watching. It could be the threads on the relief valve, so it's best to double check that. The white plastic gasket is just to help fill in the space to make the outside it more visually appealing and hide the edges, it doesn't actually seal anything. You might be able to lift up the plastic to look more closely at the insulation. In this case if it's leaking from the threads then replacing the relief valve and cleaning the threads might help. Alternatively it could be an issue with the tank itself leaking.
My unit seems to be leaking around the drain valve thread/connection area. There is a plastic ring behind the drain valve and water is slowing dripping out of that and running down the side of the tank. I've tightened the valve but don't think it's helped. I've got a call into a plumber but wondering if I should first try draining the tank and replacing the drain valve to see if that fixes the problem.
Thanks for watching. Since the drain valve is an easy repair, it's definitely something that you could replace first to see if it fixes. We have a video that shows this in more detail. If you don't have a brass valve it can be helpful to install one as plastic can crack. As well you could make a custom valve using a 3/4" brass ball valve. That is also mentioned in the video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much! It really means a lot to get feedback like this. We put a lot of effort into the scripts, narration and graphics to help make each video as clear as possible!
Came to your video out of an emergency situation and can't thank you enough that we were able to hold off calling the plumber out after hours. Ps...We called one in during normal office hours and saved a bunch of cash.
Thanks for watching. Depending on the model the exhaust will be around 160°F. A water heater will heat the room slightly but The difficulty is harnessing that heat in an efficient way. In any case it is not recommended to make any modifications to the exhaust system that fall outside of any established building codes.
@@AmreSupply I have a gas heater located directly behind the bathroom. Is it possible to make an opening in the bathroom wall and deliver hot air through a metal tube? Most importantly, in my question, is the air or exhaust harmful to breathing, which may lead to suffocation? Thank you for the answer.
@@b.mohammed8748 The exhaust air contains an odorless / poisonous gas called carbon monoxide CO even at seemingly low levels can cause suffocation. This is why homes are installed with CO detectors, to detect any carbon monoxide from faulty gas appliances, furnaces and water heaters. The exhaust must be vented outside, safely away from the home and cannot in any circumstance be vented inside a room. Furnaces have a sealed combustion chamber that vents the exhaust outside. This is separate from the circulating air inside the vents. Clean air from inside the home is pushed overtop of the heat exchanger and the air heats up before it is circulated around the home. th-cam.com/video/tVLtJwix-_8/w-d-xo.html
Hi and much thanks for the useful info. The thing is with my tank, when I turn off the cold water inlet, the slow leak at the bottom stops and dries up in a couple hours but the insulation is damp . Would this mean that the possible rust is near the very top ? Is there anyway to adjust the water level ? This tank is not even 8 years old yet and the one before this was probably here and lasted trouble free for over 20 years !! 🤔😒 This really sucks !!!
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. It is possible that the threads on the dip tube www.amresupply.com/catalog/Dip-Tubes-Drain-Tubes-Nipples-647772-PP2A (below the dielectric coupling) that screws directly into the tank is leaking. That would be the first place to look a little closer at, and it would explain why the insulation at the top is still wet. Unfortunately we don't have a video showing how to replace the dip tube. In some cases it can be simple but in other cases the pipes will need to be cut to install a new one. Also the water level can't be adjusted in any way.
How did you solve this? I think I'm having the same problem-seems like leaking from cold water inlet then dipping down on the burner! Please let me know, if I don't want to replace the entire thing. Thanks. Thanks to AMRE Supply for this clear video!
@@soefma Hi. In my situation, it actually was a cracked el cheapo plastic drain valve ! But there was no visible sign of leakage around the valve because the crack along the threads was deep enough inside the tank and that's why I guess the leak was coming from underneath the tank. One evening I went to drain some water from the valve and the bleeping thing just broke right off into my hand on my first twist and there I was standing as the hot water gushed out the hole where the valve once was ! I then had to rush for some buckets to save the basement from getting completely washed out. I ordered a brass valve but installing it was a pain in itself because some of the plastic valve had melted and was actually fused unto the threads and it took some effort to finally get the threads cleaned. In retrospect I should have bought some wire brushes. It is inexcusable and absolutely criminal that these scumbag companies can choose to use such inferior plastic parts just to save a couple bucks when brass fixtures are available that are almost 100% guaranteed to last the life of the tank. Not to mention all the stress and headache that comes when it breaks and needs replacing. Really wish I could sue for pain and suffering 🙄😒! I Hope that you find a fix that's not too stressful or expensive. Take care.
Since the mid 2000s, 2 experienced repair techs of stoves, washer/dryers, refrigerator, Central AC units, etc told me that companies do not make them last more than 10 years. And that we're lucky when the products last 12-14 years...
Thanks for watching. You might be noticing some corrosion or rust from inside the tank. If you have an electric heater then another source of leaks is the heating element. We unfortunately do not have tutorials for those repairs yet.
My gas water heater is almost 30 years old , I have made some minor repairs over the years that have saved me a lot of money. The funny part about it is that, when I bought the water heater, I got the cheapest one I could find. I'm not recommending that you buy the cheapest water heater you can find, but they sure don't make them like they used to. I go to the metal recycle shop a occasionally and I see fairly new water heaters in the scrap pile, and it makes wonder, how many are actually bad?
Thanks for watching. This happens with water heaters and appliances. There are many that are thrown out way before their time. Often it can be fixed by just replacing one or two parts but not everyone wants to dive in and do the repair themselves. When a service call, labor and parts together will cost them $500 for a repair, many people decide to put that towards a new model. In other cases a new installation gives them peace of mind, and to some that is worth the money.
To repair technicians of all appliances told me production of the products are not meant to last more than 10 years. If the products last 12-13 years, consider yourself lucky...
Hi. I am seeing a drip (1,2,3), drip (1,2,3), drip continuously coming from underneath my gas heater. Please advise me on what this can possible be and the potential fix. Thank you and God bless you.
Thanks for watching. Following the steps in the video see if you can trace the water to a specific source. The leak might be starting higher up and flowing down to the underside of the water heater.
Thanks for watching! Yes we do have a branch in Calgary: goo.gl/maps/r5duzFUGL9fXNrBw9 as well you can view all water heater parts here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
My tank is leaking at the top where you turn the hot and cold water on and off, also when we turn it to the hot side. The down stairs tub just keeps running and wont turn off unless we turn it back to the cold side. I was wondering what could the problem be.
Thanks for watching. Plumbing connections can leak over time as there is more than one way that it can wear out. From what you described the leak is likely coming from the shutoff valve or the dielectric union below it. You might need to install new parts for those connections. If your tub keeps running then it likely needs a new cartridge.
Why is it that every video I can find skips the connections at the bottom of the control panel? My gas water heater has two lines there, one flexible and the other is rigid and much smaller. I don't know what they're for but one or both are leaking there. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets?
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to the gas lines? In standing pilot water heaters there will be one line for the pilot flame and one line for the main burner. If you're noticing water coming from there then it's most likely a problem with the gas valve leaking at the threads. The gas valve has a sensing bulb that sits inside of the tank. The gas valve screws into these threads and in some cases can leak.
Thanks for watching. Neither the drain valve or relief valve should have a slow drip or a slow leak after it closes. If the unit is brand new then it's likely a manufacturing defect and might be covered under warranty.
Hello, thank you so much for the video, but I'm baffled with my ceiling water heater, it only leaks (on the ceiling down to the bathroom) when I turn on the electricity (I always have it turned off if I don't use it). I notice that it starts leaking after around 15 minutes I turned it on, what could the problem be? Is it dangerous to keep using it?
Thank you for watching. If the leak is happening from the discharge pipe then it is possible that the relief valve is not closing properly. A mineral buildup can cause this or it is possible that the valve is worn out. You can see how to install a new valve here: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
We had water on the floor so disconnected the electrical and remove the water tank. Now I'm wondering if it was the old copper flex hose on top which I I've noticed has a hole in it. Can I hook water to the tank and check if it's leaking while the electric is not intact?
Thanks for watching. You can check it even without the heater on since the water pressure will still push the water through the system. This applies to both electric and gas water heaters.
@@AmreSupply Alas, The pressure relief valve was busted off and it cannot be checked😭 ( It was wedged in between the drywall so tight We had to cut the dry wall to get it out😮) Have a great day👍🏻 Thanks again
@@AmreSupply tp valve is at the the top and no water is pooling. There's a large groove for it so I can't put my finger inside to check if threads are wet but it looks dry. The drip is coming from the leg of the water heater but also under the gas control assembly
Thanks for watching. If you've replaced the relief valve and water still intermittently comes out of the relief valve then you'll likely need an expansion tank installed by a plumber.
I have water leaking inside the the bottom at the spot where the temperature switch is and it pops the breaker, water in the pan also about 3 inches? Water heater is electric and 2 years old.
Thanks for watching. In an electric water heater the heating elements are screwed in. If the elements are still working properly but are leaking then you can try to reinstall the elements but with new teflon tape to help the threads to seal properly. We don't have a specific video on electric water heating element replacement but we have one on teflon (thread seal) tape th-cam.com/video/Yu_l5mo16FU/w-d-xo.html
I have a Rheem Performance that's leaking from a corroded tank somewhere at the bottom, since the fiberglass on the inside is damp, and the pan fills up after about 3 hours. (I ruled out the TPR and drain valves already) I'm worried it may put out the pilot light, and the gas will still keep getting pumped out. Does anyone know if this is a possibility, or is there some precautionary shut off for the gas? (I have to call and have someone look at it, but I'm almost completely certain it needs to be replaced)
Thanks for watching. That is a great question and is explained through this video: th-cam.com/video/h0uZDmdpR0E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RYJcC9FlNrZA8fI4 When the pilot flame heats the thermocouple it generates a small amount of voltage which is enough to power the solenoid in the gas valve. If the thermocouple does not heat up or if there is no pilot flame, then there is not enough voltage and the gas valve will close. This prevents gas from leaking out if the pilot light goes out.
Hi Tammy thank you for watching. If the insulation gets wet it won't hold on to too much water but you'll still want to dry it out. If you have an electric tank then just let the tank dry on its own with the aid of a fan or dehumidifier. If you have a gas tank you can leave the tank running as the heat from the tank will help the water evaporate faster.
@@AmreSupply thanks for your reply. I luckily do have a dehumidifier & have been using it 👍 I had some of that Watts water heater connector pipe on there & it sprang a big leak & the plastic or rubber inside deteriorated! The guy at Lowe's said he'd never seen it do that before & offered me more. I declined. Instead I bought Eastman Water-Flex corrugated stainless steel connector hose. They didn't have any copper ☹️ God bless you 🙏
@@tammydear8057 You're welcome Tammy we're happy to help out. Overall its not that common for those connectors to fail in that way but regardless replacing it with a stainless steel connector will work great in your case.
If you get a pinhole leak in the wall of the tank, simply screw a screw into it. I’ve seen the tank that looks like a porcupine has been working fine for years
Thanks for watching. In this case it might be the an issue with where the control valve connects to the tank, or the bottom of the tank is compromised and is leaking.
Thanks for watching. The heating elements on a electric water heater can leak. These are relatively simple to replace but when you replace them check the threads and make sure that they are clean. This will ensure that the new element makes a good seal.
Thanks for watching. If there is a leak from the drain valve then it might not be closing properly and might be faulty. You can see how to replace it here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
About to replace mine today. Tank started leaking. Didn't notice it for a while. Then it started putting out the pilot light. I know it was going to need replaced a few years ago when the pressure relief valve stuck open just enough to leak. Glad it stuck open lol.
Thanks for watching. You are right its quite preferred for it to fail and stick open. If it is stuck closed then that is not safe, which is why we recommend testing the valve during yearly regular maintenance. We hope your new tank serves you well!
Thanks for watching. That is uncommon for a 3 year old tank. What has lead you to think that it's an inner tank leak? Have you eliminated other issues?
@@AmreSupply I don't see any leaks up top and on any fittings. I can feel the insulation soaked and water is dripping all around the base...I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from, so I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks for watching. It depends on the size of the leak and where it was coming from. The relief valve is something that could leak but close itself over time. If you think it was coming from the relief valve then that can be replaced. Alternatively If the inside of the tank was leaking then a piece of sediment might have plugged it inside. This is something that might start leaking again.
Thanks for watching. The steps for replacing the drain valve and the relief valve includes draining the water. This is shown in the two links which are in the description of this video: Water heater leaking from drain valve? th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html Pressure relief valve leaking water? th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. You can check to see if there is a leak in the threads of the cold inlet or the hot outlet nipples by using a cloth or anything that can be pushed down towards that. Normally it should be 100% dry so if you push a cloth down and there is water then that's an indicator of a leak but only if you haven't had a leak farther up that might have traveled down.. If you soak up water and it seems to be wet again from that spot then that's more confirmation.
Thanks for watching. For a quick temporary solution there is flex seal or other quick seal patches that can be applied to the seam. www.amresupply.com/catalog/Emergency-Repair-DC1D If the seam is not accessible you might have to shut off the water and manually drain the tank th-cam.com/video/hkbi24QJhDw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. This water heater was set up in our studio so we would have plenty of room to set up lights and move the camera around. The water heater wasn't 100% functional during the filming but was filled with some water. You have a good eye for detail in spotting the lack of the barrel union.
Hello, I have a Hardie Dux water tank and know nothing about it. Would be appreciate it if you could help me how to regulate the hot water? My husband passed away and so feeling helpless not knowing what to do.
Thanks for watching. Thats all understandable but once you learn a little it feels good to know what to do. Other than the temperature control you'll want to know how to relight the pilot if you have a standing pilot water heater. You can learn more in this video: th-cam.com/video/d-KRwKdRNYI/w-d-xo.html This video show you how to do regular maintenance: th-cam.com/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/w-d-xo.html As well if you want to know how water heaters work this video explains the different types and what each part does. th-cam.com/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. On an electric water heater, the heating elements are powered but the water is controlled by the pressure within the system. There are no powered pumps so turning off power will just turn off the heat but will not stop a leak.
Hi Talia, thank you for watching. When in doubt you can always turn the gas off by closing the valve to the gas supply line. Then it won't matter if the pilot setting is turned to the off setting, the pilot flame will go out as it will not have any more gas to burn. From there it will be safe to work on your water heater. Hope this helps.
I suspect the dampness around my hot water heater is coming from the relief valve. I don't think it's pouring out but maybe from steam? Is it safe to place a container under the tube to prevent water from pooling in the area?
Thanks for watching. You can put a drain pan under the water heater or under the drain tube but if there is steam coming out of the relief valve then either the water pressure & temperature inside the tank is too high, the wrong pressure relief valve was installed, the relief valve itself has failed. You can see how to replace the relief valve here: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. These valves are factory installed and will be tightly screwed into the tank. It is unlikely that the valve would loosen over time as you would see it spin and it would no longer be orientated correctly. If the valve was replaced at any point after it was installed then its more of a possibility.
@@AmreSupply so the value on / off switch could loosen at all over time , The dripping isn’t coming for the hot water heat but from the bottom of the value
@@freedomring6364 The pressure relief valve is operated by a spring and a sensing bulb. This mechanism can wear out overtime which can cause the valve to open at lower temperatures. As well sediment and corrosion can interfere with the valve closing properly. Regardless If you're getting a slow leak out of the relief valve then its best to install a new one. You can see this in more detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html The same applies to the drain valve. The rubber stopper can wear down which will prevent it from making a good seal. You can see this repair here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
The drain pipe just continues to leak despite the new valve. The temperature is turned down to 120. My heat works, and the water is still very hot, but the drain just keeps leaking. Do I need a new tank? Or is there anything else it could be?
Thanks for watching. If you installed a new drain valve and use teflon tape on the threads then it shouldn't leak. If the new drain valve leaks from around the threads its possible that the threads on the tank itself are worn down, which might compromise the seal. Before replacing the entire tank, it might be good to drain the tank, unscrew the new drain valve, clean the threads on the tank with a wire brush and take a look at the condition of the threads. Then reapply teflon tape, install the drain valve and see if that helps.
Thanks for watching. You could try removing the relief valve and cleaning the threads with a wire brush. Reapply thread sealant and reinstall. In many cases this can help fix the leak if the leak is coming from the threads.
Thanks for watching. Its possible that the threads were corroded or were rusted. This can prevent a new drain valve from making a good seal. If you remove the new drain valve, clean the threads with a wire brush and vinegar. Also inspect the threads to see if there is any damage.
Thanks for watching. If you are losing that amount of water then there is a major leak in the tank. It would be best to shut off the water supply to the water heater and call a technician to do a closer inspection. You might need a new tank.
this is what i have. installed three in my life - 2 gas one electric so I have some experience. this one is gas. I replaced this one with my own hands due to Sandy in 2012. Basement in NJ. all is copper. sharkbite cold. sweated hot out. sharkbites cold are in great shape. for the hot out, I have the nipple, the copper threaded adapter, 4 inches of 3/4 pipe straight up and a 90. the seams of the 90 are leaking. green and corroded. after the 90, i have 1 foot of 3/4 and another 90. again 90 green corrosion and leaking. must be due to moisture in basement and 12 years lol. I want to hacksaw the pipe before the first 90. I want to sandpaper the 4 inch piece due to deposits and sharkbite 90. after want to use use pipe and sharkbite 90 if i need to use a small sharkbite connector after the second 90 so be it. how do i deal with the hot water? good shut off on the cold water side. good ball valve. can shut building off if need to. I am comfortable with the the repair but not with the hot water. How do i repair an active gas hot water heater? thank you.
Thanks for watching. The installation side of things is outside of the scope of this series but it's most secure to open the hot water faucets to allow air to flow in and drain the hot pipes to give yourself a clean way to install the rest of the components / tank.
Hi Tyler, thanks for watching. It's likely that the water heater (when hot and pressurized) is warming up that portion of the pipe. When you use some hot water the cold supply will help fill water. It'll likely be colder as the cooler water will be flowing into the tank.
Thanks for watching. We're planning to update this series with electric water heaters in the future. As for leaks, the electric water heater will be very similar except you will have to remove the panels to inspect the heating element threads for leaks. If the heating elements are faulty or are leaking then they can be unscrewed and replaced.
@@AmreSupply Thank you! :) My drain valve seems to be the issue. The drain valve is the original plastic one that came with the heater in 2015 (I assume, as I've only just bought the house a few months ago). My local stores seem to not carry the precise brass replacement part so I'm now waiting a week (ugh!) for it to arrive. The last owners (who I have some choice words for) decided in their infinite wisdom to not install a drain pan under the heater so my floor is a soaking mess. Fortunately the room is only partially finished and is slated to be gutted anyway, but, well, cringe! I first loosened the rubber flange / collar thingy against the tank body because the drip was coming form under it. When I did that, I got a bunch of steam and small spraying droplets coming out. I have a small pan underneath to catch the drip and had mopped it all up. There is water in the pan today (yay!) but the base of the heater and floor are wet again, so I'm annoyed and frustrated I have to wait a week for the part to come in. I've wondered if there's a second leak because of the quantity of water. The pressure relief valve is bone dry as are the pipe connections. The insulation inside the tank cover also feels dry to the touch. I suppose I'm concerned because of all the steam and water spray that came out when I first loosened the rubber piece around the drain valve. It's not doing that any more, but could that indicate another problem?
Thanks for sharing! Water can add up, its most likely just the drain valve that is leaking. Water can also run against the side of the tank when it drips so some of the water might be missing the pan. If you completely dry everything you can set a towel down to see if there are any additional drip spots. It can help you narrow down if there is anything else going on but its unlikely for 2 leaks to happen simultaneously.
Yeah I haven't been getting hot water and just checked it . Looks like multiple leaks corroded through even from gas exhaust on top water seepimg out and small pin pricks on top where valves are . Verry old . I think it obviously needs repalcement .
Thank you for watching. Plastic drain valves are resistant to corrosion but are more prone to breaking. They are less expensive than brass which is likely why they are manufactured that way. With a healthy anode rod, a brass drain valve should not have any issues with corrosion.
Please if you see this respond asap My water is always low. I use cold water for everything. Showers and everything Family is staying at house. They want hot water (like normal folk) So I cranked it from literally like a level 2 to 10 That was yesterday Today it’s leaking at top and bottom slightly Is this due to pressure buildup? It never leaked in YEARS ever I haven’t turned temperature level it up in prob 4,5 years
Thanks for watching. Increasing the temperature does increase the pressure (pressure and temperature are proportionate) so this would make a leak more probable especially if this is the first time it has been adjusted in years. If the leak is coming from the top the water could be running down the side and pooling at the bottom. It is less likely for it to leak at 2 places at once. A close inspection would help you narrow this down.
@@AmreSupply thanks so much. I released (flipped up ) the relief valve on top side Boy did that release a plethora My issue is gas supply. I turned pilot from on to off Do I need to turn off gas supply line that feeds into hot water tank? (In line ball valve)
@@johnc1280 The gas control valve will stay closed when the pilot is off based to the spring loaded action of the valve however it never hurts to shut off the gas shutoff valve as well.
@@AmreSupply the water is def leaking from the top. Not bottom this means a lot I’m not helpless by any means but plumbing I’m very elementary on sincerely you’ve been great help I placed a bucket under the relief valve outlet. It’s still coming out. Not much but a bit I had to jostle the relief valve a bit to get it to reduce the output water flow Played with handle a bit and it greatly reduced the water releasing Think the relief valve needs a swap?
I have yet to find an easy access anode rod removal nut! I notice on this particular tank the nut sits up high on the tank making it easy to remove so that the anode rod can be replaced. NOT SO ! Most water heaters have that nut recessed below the surface of the tank and they are very, very shallow, making it nearly impossible to remove it. Nothing even said about the anode rod which is used for “sacrifice" so that the tank will not rot out as fast. When the anode rod deteriorates, it must be replaced about every 4 to 6 years. The tank will last much longer if this simple rule is followed. A special nut driver is used to accomplish this task or ask a plumber to come in and have the work done professionally. REPLACE THE ANODE ROD on a regular basis and your water heater will last years longer!
Thanks for watching. Regular replacement of the anode rod can definitely help extend the life of the water heater. We did a video focusing more on how the anode rod works, and how to remove it. It really depends on the situation. In some cases an impact wrench might be needed if the anode threads are seized. You can see that video here: th-cam.com/video/hTJv67imgaE/w-d-xo.html
You missed mentioning that leaks can come from cold flues, particularly when a cold water heater is first fired up and it sweats (condenses) internally.
Hi Scott, thank you for watching. Plastic drain valves are prone to cracking and leaking. Its often best to install a brass drain valve. You can see all the steps here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. It would be best to wipe up the water, try to dry it down so you can observe where the water is leaking from. If it is from the drain valve or relief valve then it's an straight forward fix. If not then you might need to call a plumber.
@@AmreSupply thanks really appreciate your comment I was able to diagnose it and found the insulation inside was wet so we used the warranty and we are getting a new one again really appreciate you're video gave you a thumbs up and subed forsure 👍🏼
Thanks for watching. A leak from the bottom of the tank would be considered the inner tank, as mentioned in the video. As well since water flows a leak from the drain valve or relief valve can pool at the bottom of the water heater so those are always good to eliminate first.
@@AmreSupply -- Hello AMRE, thank you for your prompt reply. I was getting my wallet ready to buy a new water heater when I carefully inspected the top of the water heater. If water's pooling at the bottom, why the little puddle on the top, next to the in-flow pipe, sticking out of the tank? Careful inspection detected the problem: the in-flow hose connected to the tank's inflow port had a tiny leak -- just where the in-flow hose connects to its "nut" screw-on connector. The hose is the plastic wrapped with stainless webbing kind of jobbers. I replaced that in-flow pipe with a copper pipe and so far no leaks! There was one symptom that initially led to solving this issue: I noticed the pilot light would go out on the gas-fed Rheem (3 year old) water heater. Twice. Could the water saturating the bottom of the tank cause so much moisture that it puts out the pilot light? Seems so. I sucked water out with my shop-vac. Must've been at least half-gallon of water pooled inside the heater's bottom tray. Thank you again! RG
@@rerite2 You're welcome, we're just happy to help! Its good that you were able to narrow down the leak. Water pooling can be deceiving but you were smart to trace it up to the supply line. Cheers!
@@AmreSupply --- Well, I'm stumped. The Rheem gas water heater pilot light won't work. I hear the gas going in. The blue indicator light flashes for a bit then turns red -- solid red. I guess the water did some kind of damage. The water heater has been drying out pretty well as it's hot weather now. Suggestions?
@@rerite2 If the pilot won't light at all then it could be an issue with the ignitor (check the wires to make sure its grounded) or the pilot orifice could be plugged. If the pilot lights but doesn't stay lit then its likely an issue with the thermocouple (or thermopile), the wires or connections, or the thermal cutoff switch. You can see more in these videos: Thermopile (electronic valve) th-cam.com/video/UXpmmGuewk8/w-d-xo.html Thermocouple (conventional valve) th-cam.com/video/Lu5GvbvspMw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for giving advice on a 220 volt or gas appliance. A leaking water tank can easily short out when water leaks on the wires and the thermostat and there will be a loud noise with a fireball when it shorts out. 220 volts with a wet copper ground will kill you 99 percent of the time. A Gas water heater could be leaking due to a defective gas valve or safety. I wouldn't be given advice on appliances that can easily kill you or burn down you house.. Just my 40 Years experience.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. We currently don't have videos on electric water heaters but for all our videos we recommend unplugging / disconnecting the power before any troubleshooting. As for gas appliances, we recommend that any repairs of the gas fittings or the replacement of gas valves to be handled by a licensed technician.
You're welcome! We just try to share some information to help people to narrow down the source. Note that a leak farther on one of the connections can leak onto the insulation so it's still best to eliminate all other sources first before assuming that the leak is coming from the tank wall.
Thanks for watching. You are right condensation can cause water to drip, though it will often look a little different than a slow continuous leak. Still good to watch for.
Thanks for watching. Were you able to identify a leak or a source for the leak? Normally a leak shouldn't prevent the water heater from heating unless it lost most of it's water. A faulty thermocouple or thermopile, a failed thermal cutoff switch (TCO) or a defective control valve can prevent the burner from staying lit and prevent the tank from heating. You can see more in these videos: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBwJ4a8MT2GKTDiSuvSHg6Xk.html
Thanks for watching. If the water heating is leaking from both the relief valve and drain valve then it would be best to replace both valves at the same time. First start by draining the tank and replacing the drain valve as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html With the tank drained, then you will also be in a position to easily replace the relief valve. th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. Yes that is one more potential source of a leak. We do have a dedicated video showing how to replace an anode rod: th-cam.com/video/hTJv67imgaE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. The parts are listed in the description but the only part not specifically named is the dialectric union which connects the tank to the water supply. These can sometimes be part of the nipple and will be called dielectric nipples. You can see these parts here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
Thanks for watching. It depends on the layers below the carpet, the water could be under one of these layers and might be pooling there. In any case it's worth making sure everything is dried properly to prevent any mold or rot from happening.
Thank you for watching. Many people have found value in this video and both the drain valve and the relief valve are repairs that are simple to do. We have linked videos to show those repairs. Other repairs are more difficult and we have no problem pointing out when someone should call a plumber.
I flushed my tank last night (I'd been away for a few days, and had it set on "pilot" so the water wouldn't be Hot.) I temporarily turned on the relief valve at the time. I went downstairs this morning, and the pipe was dripping. It's still dripping tonight. If it ain't Broke...
Thanks for watching. The relief valve should be able to open and close properly as needed. It is possible that sediment has prevented it from closing properly or the valve is starting to wear down. We have a video showing how to replace the relief valve: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. Sometimes its not a small repair, but it's always good to check the simple things first. A water heater replacement is more expensive but can resets the situation which means there won't be surprises one or two years from now. That is always a risk with older water heaters.
Another source of a leak can be the heating elements in electric water heaters. We haven't filmed the repair videos for electric water heaters yet but these repairs will be added in a future series update.
Yeah, water is just pouring out of the lower access panel. The insulation up to there is soaked!
That is what I was going to say, my gasket on the heating element was leaking, even though the element was still working it was corroded pretty bad in some areas so I just replaced it with new element and gasket
@@larryhutchinson4271 Thanks for sharing, we're glad that you were able to get it repaired!
Well it’s a water heater so what do you think is gonna be in it
Why isn't this video on the top list? This the most helpful, concise video. Wasted time watching three other videos before I got to this. Thanks and much appreciated.
Thanks for watching. Some of our videos make it to the top of the searches but there are a lot of videos out there so it takes a while for these to grow in momentum. Fortunately all of these likes and comments help give the video a boost!
most reliable and accurate information provider and channel for my home appliance repair . Saved.
Thank you, we're just glad to put out detailed and informative videos! If you're curious we just finished a 78 video series on refrigerator repairs. One of our biggest series and it's worth a bookmark for future reference: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBzhqc0A8H9bxFjaJSEvY18y.html Cheers!
@@AmreSupply yes, I saw it and helped me to clean my clogged drain tube and fixed the leaking problem. Even different model, the fixing ideas are the same and transferable.
@@flyfishing101 We're glad to hear it!
I DO like and want to see more! The most clear videos I have ever seen, honestly. kudos!
Thank you! We have many more videos on our TH-cam channel. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is great for general knowledge: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
very helpful video thank you! any more definitive tests of a broken inner tank?
My heater is leaking. This video was very informative. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Went to Home Depot for a new elec HWH. Being elderly and disabled I asked about installation. They wanted $579 for the HWH, $1187 install, and $150 for a permit??? I laughed and paid $79 for delivery. It took me longer to carefully muscle that HWH down the basement steps and up onto the 2' base than it did to hook up the water and power.
Thanks for watching. We're glad that your installation was a success.
Thanks so much. I have a rheem water heater and called the support line where they were trying to guide me through finding the leak over the phone and it was no help. I opened the door same as you mentioned at the end of the video and found out it was rusted out. Rheem never even had me check!
You're welcome, we're glad that the video helped you out!
Very instructive. Well illustrated. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
I'm really happy the hot water tank is under the house and not in the storage closet anymore.
Thanks for watching. Its definitely nice when a water heater or furnace is out of the way and not close to your living area.
I think we have get a new hot tank because the water is coming out of two spots on ours but how do you stop the leaking for a while to wait when you are get a new one?
Thanks for watching. If you have a leak, then shut off the water supply and try to narrow down where the leak is coming from. If it is from the tank then 40 gallons will produce a lot of water. If the leak is in an accessible place, then something like a waterproof patch seal tape could be used to temporarily stop the water from coming out. In other cases the spot is more difficult to isolate.
Question (01.05.2025):
Do i need to turn off the tank water heater and drain the water first before removing/replacing the drain valve assembly? Can i do this myself or should i call the technician? Please advise. Thank you.
Do I need a new water heater if water is just constantly gushing out of the bottom?
Thanks for watching. If you can narrow it down to the drain valve or the main control valve, then those could be fixed. If the tank walls are damaged and leaking, then the entire water heater should be replaced.
We have alot of water coming out around the cold water inlet. The nipple seems to be tight. Where could this be coming from? Do I need to remove the top cover from the tank?
Thanks for watching. If you look closely there are several connection points. There is where the nipple screws into the tank itself which is usually several inches below the top, as well there is the connection of the water supply line as it joins to the nipple. To inspect the lower connection there might be a small circular plastic cover, or some insulation that you might need to remove before you see it. If water seems to be rising up then it's likely that lower connection. Like any leak you can dry the spot completely and see where the water returns.
@AMRE I have water leaking from behind the pressure relief valve. it looks like it is coming from behind that white circular gasket. what repair would you recommend for this? thank. you
Thanks for watching. It could be the threads on the relief valve, so it's best to double check that. The white plastic gasket is just to help fill in the space to make the outside it more visually appealing and hide the edges, it doesn't actually seal anything. You might be able to lift up the plastic to look more closely at the insulation. In this case if it's leaking from the threads then replacing the relief valve and cleaning the threads might help. Alternatively it could be an issue with the tank itself leaking.
My unit seems to be leaking around the drain valve thread/connection area. There is a plastic ring behind the drain valve and water is slowing dripping out of that and running down the side of the tank. I've tightened the valve but don't think it's helped. I've got a call into a plumber but wondering if I should first try draining the tank and replacing the drain valve to see if that fixes the problem.
Thanks for watching. Since the drain valve is an easy repair, it's definitely something that you could replace first to see if it fixes. We have a video that shows this in more detail. If you don't have a brass valve it can be helpful to install one as plastic can crack. As well you could make a custom valve using a 3/4" brass ball valve. That is also mentioned in the video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
love your channel! i always feel like i great a proper understanding after watching your videos
Thank you so much! It really means a lot to get feedback like this. We put a lot of effort into the scripts, narration and graphics to help make each video as clear as possible!
Came to your video out of an emergency situation and can't thank you enough that we were able to hold off calling the plumber out after hours. Ps...We called one in during normal office hours and saved a bunch of cash.
You're welcome, we're just glad to help!
Is it possible to take advantage of the hot air that comes out of the heater to heat a room?
Thanks for watching. Depending on the model the exhaust will be around 160°F. A water heater will heat the room slightly but The difficulty is harnessing that heat in an efficient way. In any case it is not recommended to make any modifications to the exhaust system that fall outside of any established building codes.
@@AmreSupply
I have a gas heater located directly behind the bathroom. Is it possible to make an opening in the bathroom wall and deliver hot air through a metal tube? Most importantly, in my question, is the air or exhaust harmful to breathing, which may lead to suffocation? Thank you for the answer.
@@b.mohammed8748 The exhaust air contains an odorless / poisonous gas called carbon monoxide CO even at seemingly low levels can cause suffocation. This is why homes are installed with CO detectors, to detect any carbon monoxide from faulty gas appliances, furnaces and water heaters. The exhaust must be vented outside, safely away from the home and cannot in any circumstance be vented inside a room.
Furnaces have a sealed combustion chamber that vents the exhaust outside. This is separate from the circulating air inside the vents. Clean air from inside the home is pushed overtop of the heat exchanger and the air heats up before it is circulated around the home. th-cam.com/video/tVLtJwix-_8/w-d-xo.html
Hi and much thanks for the useful info. The thing is with my tank, when I turn off the cold water inlet, the slow leak at the bottom stops and dries up in a couple hours but the insulation is damp . Would this mean that the possible rust is near the very top ? Is there anyway to adjust the water level ? This tank is not even 8 years old yet and the one before this was probably here and lasted trouble free for over 20 years !! 🤔😒 This really sucks !!!
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. It is possible that the threads on the dip tube www.amresupply.com/catalog/Dip-Tubes-Drain-Tubes-Nipples-647772-PP2A (below the dielectric coupling) that screws directly into the tank is leaking. That would be the first place to look a little closer at, and it would explain why the insulation at the top is still wet. Unfortunately we don't have a video showing how to replace the dip tube. In some cases it can be simple but in other cases the pipes will need to be cut to install a new one.
Also the water level can't be adjusted in any way.
@@AmreSupply And thanks for your reply. Were the water heaters manufactured say 35 years ago more robust than the ones made today?
How did you solve this? I think I'm having the same problem-seems like leaking from cold water inlet then dipping down on the burner! Please let me know, if I don't want to replace the entire thing. Thanks. Thanks to AMRE Supply for this clear video!
@@soefma Hi. In my situation, it actually was a cracked el cheapo plastic drain valve ! But there was no visible sign of leakage around the valve because the crack along the threads was deep enough inside the tank and that's why I guess the leak was coming from underneath the tank. One evening I went to drain some water from the valve and the bleeping thing just broke right off into my hand on my first twist and there I was standing as the hot water gushed out the hole where the valve once was ! I then had to rush for some buckets to save the basement from getting completely washed out. I ordered a brass valve but installing it was a pain in itself because some of the plastic valve had melted and was actually fused unto the threads and it took some effort to finally get the threads cleaned. In retrospect I should have bought some wire brushes. It is inexcusable and absolutely criminal that these scumbag companies can choose to use such inferior plastic parts just to save a couple bucks when brass fixtures are available that are almost 100% guaranteed to last the life of the tank. Not to mention all the stress and headache that comes when it breaks and needs replacing. Really wish I could sue for pain and suffering 🙄😒! I Hope that you find a fix that's not too stressful or expensive. Take care.
Since the mid 2000s, 2 experienced repair techs of stoves, washer/dryers, refrigerator, Central AC units, etc told me that companies do not make them last more than 10 years. And that we're lucky when the products last 12-14 years...
what if my electric water heatertank is leaking a brownish liquid that smells like paint or acetone?
Thanks for watching. You might be noticing some corrosion or rust from inside the tank. If you have an electric heater then another source of leaks is the heating element. We unfortunately do not have tutorials for those repairs yet.
My gas water heater is almost 30 years old , I have made some minor repairs over the years that have saved me a lot of money. The funny part about it is that, when I bought the water heater, I got the cheapest one I could find. I'm not recommending that you buy the cheapest water heater you can find, but they sure don't make them like they used to. I go to the metal recycle shop a occasionally and I see fairly new water heaters in the scrap pile, and it makes wonder, how many are actually bad?
Thanks for watching. This happens with water heaters and appliances. There are many that are thrown out way before their time. Often it can be fixed by just replacing one or two parts but not everyone wants to dive in and do the repair themselves. When a service call, labor and parts together will cost them $500 for a repair, many people decide to put that towards a new model. In other cases a new installation gives them peace of mind, and to some that is worth the money.
To repair technicians of all appliances told me production of the products are not meant to last more than 10 years. If the products last 12-13 years, consider yourself lucky...
Hi.
I am seeing a drip (1,2,3), drip (1,2,3), drip continuously coming from underneath my gas heater.
Please advise me on what this can possible be and the potential fix.
Thank you and God bless you.
Thanks for watching. Following the steps in the video see if you can trace the water to a specific source. The leak might be starting higher up and flowing down to the underside of the water heater.
Fantastyczny program , Duza wiedza Gratuluje
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
do you have branch in Calgary? I have water leakage from cold water inlet and probably will be needed to replace dip pipe
Thanks for watching! Yes we do have a branch in Calgary: goo.gl/maps/r5duzFUGL9fXNrBw9 as well you can view all water heater parts here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
My tank is leaking at the top where you turn the hot and cold water on and off, also when we turn it to the hot side. The down stairs tub just keeps running and wont turn off unless we turn it back to the cold side. I was wondering what could the problem be.
Thanks for watching. Plumbing connections can leak over time as there is more than one way that it can wear out. From what you described the leak is likely coming from the shutoff valve or the dielectric union below it. You might need to install new parts for those connections. If your tub keeps running then it likely needs a new cartridge.
Why is it that every video I can find skips the connections at the bottom of the control panel? My gas water heater has two lines there, one flexible and the other is rigid and much smaller. I don't know what they're for but one or both are leaking there. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets?
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to the gas lines? In standing pilot water heaters there will be one line for the pilot flame and one line for the main burner.
If you're noticing water coming from there then it's most likely a problem with the gas valve leaking at the threads. The gas valve has a sensing bulb that sits inside of the tank. The gas valve screws into these threads and in some cases can leak.
im just buy a new 20 galon bradford white heather and the valve had a slow leak its thats normal?
Thanks for watching. Neither the drain valve or relief valve should have a slow drip or a slow leak after it closes. If the unit is brand new then it's likely a manufacturing defect and might be covered under warranty.
@@AmreSupply thanks so much!
Hello, thank you so much for the video, but I'm baffled with my ceiling water heater, it only leaks (on the ceiling down to the bathroom) when I turn on the electricity (I always have it turned off if I don't use it).
I notice that it starts leaking after around 15 minutes I turned it on, what could the problem be?
Is it dangerous to keep using it?
Thanks for watching. In this case it's probably best to get this inspected by a technician.
My relief valve has a small constant leak. What would cause this?
Thank you for watching. If the leak is happening from the discharge pipe then it is possible that the relief valve is not closing properly. A mineral buildup can cause this or it is possible that the valve is worn out. You can see how to install a new valve here: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
We had water on the floor so disconnected the electrical and remove the water tank. Now I'm wondering if it was the old copper flex hose on top which I I've noticed has a hole in it. Can I hook water to the tank and check if it's leaking while the electric is not intact?
Thanks for watching. You can check it even without the heater on since the water pressure will still push the water through the system. This applies to both electric and gas water heaters.
@@AmreSupply Great! Thank you so much!🙏🏻
@@tracytracy1030 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@@AmreSupply Alas, The pressure relief valve was busted off and it cannot be checked😭 ( It was wedged in between the drywall so tight We had to cut the dry wall to get it out😮) Have a great day👍🏻 Thanks again
@@tracytracy1030 Sounds like it was some extra fun along the way, thanks for the update!
Thank you for this!
You're very welcome!
is it possible the drain valve leaks internally and will feel dry when i swipe my fingers around the outside?
Thanks for watching. If the drain valve is leaking you would likely be able to feel some water close to where the threads are screwed in.
@@AmreSupply tp valve is at the the top and no water is pooling. There's a large groove for it so I can't put my finger inside to check if threads are wet but it looks dry. The drip is coming from the leg of the water heater but also under the gas control assembly
What if you’ve replaced the relief valve and water still leaks? And you have the correct size.
Thanks for watching. If you've replaced the relief valve and water still intermittently comes out of the relief valve then you'll likely need an expansion tank installed by a plumber.
I have water leaking inside the the bottom at the spot where the temperature switch is and it pops the breaker, water in the pan also about 3 inches? Water heater is electric and 2 years old.
Thanks for watching. In an electric water heater the heating elements are screwed in. If the elements are still working properly but are leaking then you can try to reinstall the elements but with new teflon tape to help the threads to seal properly. We don't have a specific video on electric water heating element replacement but we have one on teflon (thread seal) tape th-cam.com/video/Yu_l5mo16FU/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply had a heating element break inside, it's fixed, thanks!
I have a Rheem Performance that's leaking from a corroded tank somewhere at the bottom, since the fiberglass on the inside is damp, and the pan fills up after about 3 hours. (I ruled out the TPR and drain valves already)
I'm worried it may put out the pilot light, and the gas will still keep getting pumped out. Does anyone know if this is a possibility, or is there some precautionary shut off for the gas? (I have to call and have someone look at it, but I'm almost completely certain it needs to be replaced)
Thanks for watching. That is a great question and is explained through this video: th-cam.com/video/h0uZDmdpR0E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RYJcC9FlNrZA8fI4 When the pilot flame heats the thermocouple it generates a small amount of voltage which is enough to power the solenoid in the gas valve. If the thermocouple does not heat up or if there is no pilot flame, then there is not enough voltage and the gas valve will close. This prevents gas from leaking out if the pilot light goes out.
What if your tanks pipe leaks, spews water everywhere and gets water down in the insulation? Thanks in advance for your answer.
Hi Tammy thank you for watching. If the insulation gets wet it won't hold on to too much water but you'll still want to dry it out. If you have an electric tank then just let the tank dry on its own with the aid of a fan or dehumidifier. If you have a gas tank you can leave the tank running as the heat from the tank will help the water evaporate faster.
@@AmreSupply thanks for your reply. I luckily do have a dehumidifier & have been using it 👍 I had some of that Watts water heater connector pipe on there & it sprang a big leak & the plastic or rubber inside deteriorated! The guy at Lowe's said he'd never seen it do that before & offered me more. I declined. Instead I bought Eastman Water-Flex corrugated stainless steel connector hose. They didn't have any copper ☹️ God bless you 🙏
@@tammydear8057 You're welcome Tammy we're happy to help out. Overall its not that common for those connectors to fail in that way but regardless replacing it with a stainless steel connector will work great in your case.
Great video
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
This helped thank you
You're welcome!
If you get a pinhole leak in the wall of the tank, simply screw a screw into it.
I’ve seen the tank that looks like a porcupine has been working fine for years
What if the insulation is dry and every valve is dry but it’s still gathering water in the bottom?
Thanks for watching. In this case it might be the an issue with where the control valve connects to the tank, or the bottom of the tank is compromised and is leaking.
my water heater is leaking from where the thermostate wire are coming out of tank,what can be done,is it fixable
Thanks for watching. The heating elements on a electric water heater can leak. These are relatively simple to replace but when you replace them check the threads and make sure that they are clean. This will ensure that the new element makes a good seal.
My water heater is dripping from that plastic hose bib...any idea why its doing this?
Thanks for watching. If there is a leak from the drain valve then it might not be closing properly and might be faulty. You can see how to replace it here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply is it mandatory to replace it or can you just add a cap to it to stop it from dripping outside the tank?
About to replace mine today. Tank started leaking. Didn't notice it for a while. Then it started putting out the pilot light. I know it was going to need replaced a few years ago when the pressure relief valve stuck open just enough to leak. Glad it stuck open lol.
Thanks for watching. You are right its quite preferred for it to fail and stick open. If it is stuck closed then that is not safe, which is why we recommend testing the valve during yearly regular maintenance. We hope your new tank serves you well!
a+ for the video. thanks for the help
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Good tips!
Thanks Fernando!
I'm leaning towards inner-tank leak on mine, but it's only 3 years old???
Thanks for watching. That is uncommon for a 3 year old tank. What has lead you to think that it's an inner tank leak? Have you eliminated other issues?
@@AmreSupply I don't see any leaks up top and on any fittings. I can feel the insulation soaked and water is dripping all around the base...I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from, so I'm not 100% sure.
What are you supposed to do if it stopped leaking on its own?
Thanks for watching. It depends on the size of the leak and where it was coming from. The relief valve is something that could leak but close itself over time. If you think it was coming from the relief valve then that can be replaced.
Alternatively If the inside of the tank was leaking then a piece of sediment might have plugged it inside. This is something that might start leaking again.
@@AmreSupply It was a good size leak. I touched around and it wasnt obvious where it came from.
you didnt tell me drain the water, now i got 50 gallons of water on my grandmas floor
Thanks for watching. The steps for replacing the drain valve and the relief valve includes draining the water. This is shown in the two links which are in the description of this video:
Water heater leaking from drain valve? th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Pressure relief valve leaking water? th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Duh!
Yes he did! Even if he didn't, it's common sense. If you need to repair a water tank, empty the water first.
Common sense 😅
😂
How can you check the threads where the cold and hot nipples are threaded into the tank?
Thanks for watching. You can check to see if there is a leak in the threads of the cold inlet or the hot outlet nipples by using a cloth or anything that can be pushed down towards that. Normally it should be 100% dry so if you push a cloth down and there is water then that's an indicator of a leak but only if you haven't had a leak farther up that might have traveled down.. If you soak up water and it seems to be wet again from that spot then that's more confirmation.
For now how to stop water from leaking from seam till I get new one?
Thanks for watching. For a quick temporary solution there is flex seal or other quick seal patches that can be applied to the seam. www.amresupply.com/catalog/Emergency-Repair-DC1D
If the seam is not accessible you might have to shut off the water and manually drain the tank th-cam.com/video/hkbi24QJhDw/w-d-xo.html
How come there is no barrel union on the gas supply? how would you be able to disconnect the gas with out cutting the Galvanised steel pipe?
Thanks for watching. This water heater was set up in our studio so we would have plenty of room to set up lights and move the camera around. The water heater wasn't 100% functional during the filming but was filled with some water. You have a good eye for detail in spotting the lack of the barrel union.
Hello, I have a Hardie Dux water tank and know nothing about it. Would be appreciate it if you could help me how to regulate the hot water? My husband passed away and so feeling helpless not knowing what to do.
Thanks for watching. Thats all understandable but once you learn a little it feels good to know what to do.
Other than the temperature control you'll want to know how to relight the pilot if you have a standing pilot water heater. You can learn more in this video: th-cam.com/video/d-KRwKdRNYI/w-d-xo.html
This video show you how to do regular maintenance: th-cam.com/video/ZTUNLIXKVu4/w-d-xo.html
As well if you want to know how water heaters work this video explains the different types and what each part does. th-cam.com/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps!
Would turning off the electricity to the hot water heater stop the water heater from leaking?
Thanks for watching. On an electric water heater, the heating elements are powered but the water is controlled by the pressure within the system. There are no powered pumps so turning off power will just turn off the heat but will not stop a leak.
definitely the tank... ugh, what a bust. thanks for the tips.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
What type of technician needs to be contacted?
Thanks for watching. A plumber is best to call for an issue with your water heater.
I’m following along with the video, but I’m stuck because the knob won’t turn past the pilot setting to the off setting!
Hi Talia, thank you for watching. When in doubt you can always turn the gas off by closing the valve to the gas supply line. Then it won't matter if the pilot setting is turned to the off setting, the pilot flame will go out as it will not have any more gas to burn. From there it will be safe to work on your water heater. Hope this helps.
I suspect the dampness around my hot water heater is coming from the relief valve. I don't think it's pouring out but maybe from steam? Is it safe to place a container under the tube to prevent water from pooling in the area?
Thanks for watching. You can put a drain pan under the water heater or under the drain tube but if there is steam coming out of the relief valve then either the water pressure & temperature inside the tank is too high, the wrong pressure relief valve was installed, the relief valve itself has failed. You can see how to replace the relief valve here: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
Solid video.
Thank you!
Could the value be dripping because it’s not tighten enough?
Thanks for watching. These valves are factory installed and will be tightly screwed into the tank. It is unlikely that the valve would loosen over time as you would see it spin and it would no longer be orientated correctly. If the valve was replaced at any point after it was installed then its more of a possibility.
@@AmreSupply so the value on / off switch could loosen at all over time , The dripping isn’t coming for the hot water heat but from the bottom of the value
@@freedomring6364 The pressure relief valve is operated by a spring and a sensing bulb. This mechanism can wear out overtime which can cause the valve to open at lower temperatures. As well sediment and corrosion can interfere with the valve closing properly. Regardless If you're getting a slow leak out of the relief valve then its best to install a new one. You can see this in more detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
The same applies to the drain valve. The rubber stopper can wear down which will prevent it from making a good seal. You can see this repair here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
The drain pipe just continues to leak despite the new valve. The temperature is turned down to 120. My heat works, and the water is still very hot, but the drain just keeps leaking. Do I need a new tank? Or is there anything else it could be?
Thanks for watching. If you installed a new drain valve and use teflon tape on the threads then it shouldn't leak. If the new drain valve leaks from around the threads its possible that the threads on the tank itself are worn down, which might compromise the seal. Before replacing the entire tank, it might be good to drain the tank, unscrew the new drain valve, clean the threads on the tank with a wire brush and take a look at the condition of the threads. Then reapply teflon tape, install the drain valve and see if that helps.
replaced the relief and still have just a tiny amount of water seeping. Now what I do?
Thanks for watching. You could try removing the relief valve and cleaning the threads with a wire brush. Reapply thread sealant and reinstall. In many cases this can help fix the leak if the leak is coming from the threads.
very good info thanks so much
You're welcome!
Great step-by-step!
Thank you!
What if I replace the drain valve but there is still water coming from around drain valve
Thanks for watching. Its possible that the threads were corroded or were rusted. This can prevent a new drain valve from making a good seal. If you remove the new drain valve, clean the threads with a wire brush and vinegar. Also inspect the threads to see if there is any damage.
My tank is leaking from the top seam. Does that mean it cannot be repaired?
Thanks for watching. It could be the tank, but it's most likely either the cold water supply or the hot water pipe connections on the tank itself.
But what if the water gushes out losing around 10 litres after using hot water usage?
Thanks for watching. If you are losing that amount of water then there is a major leak in the tank. It would be best to shut off the water supply to the water heater and call a technician to do a closer inspection. You might need a new tank.
Good stuff!
Thank you!
this is what i have. installed three in my life - 2 gas one electric so I have some experience. this one is gas. I replaced this one with my own hands due to Sandy in 2012. Basement in NJ. all is copper. sharkbite cold. sweated hot out. sharkbites cold are in great shape. for the hot out, I have the nipple, the copper threaded adapter, 4 inches of 3/4 pipe straight up and a 90. the seams of the 90 are leaking. green and corroded. after the 90, i have 1 foot of 3/4 and another 90. again 90 green corrosion and leaking. must be due to moisture in basement and 12 years lol. I want to hacksaw the pipe before the first 90. I want to sandpaper the 4 inch piece due to deposits and sharkbite 90. after want to use use pipe and sharkbite 90 if i need to use a small sharkbite connector after the second 90 so be it. how do i deal with the hot water? good shut off on the cold water side. good ball valve. can shut building off if need to. I am comfortable with the the repair but not with the hot water. How do i repair an active gas hot water heater? thank you.
Thanks for watching. The installation side of things is outside of the scope of this series but it's most secure to open the hot water faucets to allow air to flow in and drain the hot pipes to give yourself a clean way to install the rest of the components / tank.
Thank for this
You're welcome!
A good video, thanks
You're welcome!!
Thank you for the info
You're welcome!
So mines leaking from the cold but it’s hot
Hi Tyler, thanks for watching. It's likely that the water heater (when hot and pressurized) is warming up that portion of the pipe. When you use some hot water the cold supply will help fill water. It'll likely be colder as the cooler water will be flowing into the tank.
Can you talk about ELECTRIC water heaters?
Thanks for watching. We're planning to update this series with electric water heaters in the future. As for leaks, the electric water heater will be very similar except you will have to remove the panels to inspect the heating element threads for leaks. If the heating elements are faulty or are leaking then they can be unscrewed and replaced.
Thank you!! You just saved me a lot of time and probably a lot of money too! :)
You're welcome Barb! We're glad that the video helped you out!
What ended up being the problem? Did you find the leak?
@@AmreSupply Thank you! :) My drain valve seems to be the issue. The drain valve is the original plastic one that came with the heater in 2015 (I assume, as I've only just bought the house a few months ago). My local stores seem to not carry the precise brass replacement part so I'm now waiting a week (ugh!) for it to arrive. The last owners (who I have some choice words for) decided in their infinite wisdom to not install a drain pan under the heater so my floor is a soaking mess. Fortunately the room is only partially finished and is slated to be gutted anyway, but, well, cringe! I first loosened the rubber flange / collar thingy against the tank body because the drip was coming form under it. When I did that, I got a bunch of steam and small spraying droplets coming out. I have a small pan underneath to catch the drip and had mopped it all up. There is water in the pan today (yay!) but the base of the heater and floor are wet again, so I'm annoyed and frustrated I have to wait a week for the part to come in. I've wondered if there's a second leak because of the quantity of water. The pressure relief valve is bone dry as are the pipe connections. The insulation inside the tank cover also feels dry to the touch. I suppose I'm concerned because of all the steam and water spray that came out when I first loosened the rubber piece around the drain valve. It's not doing that any more, but could that indicate another problem?
Thanks for sharing! Water can add up, its most likely just the drain valve that is leaking. Water can also run against the side of the tank when it drips so some of the water might be missing the pan. If you completely dry everything you can set a towel down to see if there are any additional drip spots. It can help you narrow down if there is anything else going on but its unlikely for 2 leaks to happen simultaneously.
Yeah I haven't been getting hot water and just checked it . Looks like multiple leaks corroded through even from gas exhaust on top water seepimg out and small pin pricks on top where valves are . Verry old . I think it obviously needs repalcement .
Thanks for sharing your experience. If corrosion has gotten that bad then installing a new tank is probably best.
Thanks
Why are they not just manufactured with a brass relief valve? Makes no sense to have to change it out simply due to substandard part out of the box.
Thank you for watching. Plastic drain valves are resistant to corrosion but are more prone to breaking. They are less expensive than brass which is likely why they are manufactured that way. With a healthy anode rod, a brass drain valve should not have any issues with corrosion.
I took off the little door and It appears my inner tank is rusted and leaking
Thanks for watching. After enough time, a tank will wear out, so it's not uncommon for this to happen.
Please if you see this respond asap
My water is always low. I use cold water for everything. Showers and everything
Family is staying at house. They want hot water (like normal folk)
So I cranked it from literally like a level 2 to 10
That was yesterday
Today it’s leaking at top and bottom slightly
Is this due to pressure buildup?
It never leaked in YEARS ever
I haven’t turned temperature level it up in prob 4,5 years
Thanks for watching. Increasing the temperature does increase the pressure (pressure and temperature are proportionate) so this would make a leak more probable especially if this is the first time it has been adjusted in years.
If the leak is coming from the top the water could be running down the side and pooling at the bottom. It is less likely for it to leak at 2 places at once. A close inspection would help you narrow this down.
@@AmreSupply thanks so much. I released (flipped up ) the relief valve on top side
Boy did that release a plethora
My issue is gas supply. I turned pilot from on to off
Do I need to turn off gas supply line that feeds into hot water tank? (In line ball valve)
Just worried. Got family and sisters kids in house
@@johnc1280 The gas control valve will stay closed when the pilot is off based to the spring loaded action of the valve however it never hurts to shut off the gas shutoff valve as well.
@@AmreSupply the water is def leaking from the top. Not bottom
this means a lot
I’m not helpless by any means but plumbing I’m very elementary on
sincerely you’ve been great help
I placed a bucket under the relief valve outlet. It’s still coming out. Not much but a bit
I had to jostle the relief valve a bit to get it to reduce the output water flow
Played with handle a bit and it greatly reduced the water releasing
Think the relief valve needs a swap?
I have yet to find an easy access anode rod removal nut! I notice on this particular tank the nut sits up high on the tank making it easy to remove so that the anode rod can be replaced. NOT SO ! Most water heaters have that nut recessed below the surface of the tank and they are very, very shallow, making it nearly impossible to remove it. Nothing even said about the anode rod which is used for “sacrifice" so that the tank will not rot out as fast. When the anode rod deteriorates, it must be replaced about every 4 to 6 years. The tank will last much longer if this simple rule is followed. A special nut driver is used to accomplish this task or ask a plumber to come in and have the work done professionally. REPLACE THE ANODE ROD on a regular basis and your water heater will last years longer!
Thanks for watching. Regular replacement of the anode rod can definitely help extend the life of the water heater. We did a video focusing more on how the anode rod works, and how to remove it. It really depends on the situation. In some cases an impact wrench might be needed if the anode threads are seized. You can see that video here: th-cam.com/video/hTJv67imgaE/w-d-xo.html
Nothing like a 1AM EMERGENCY & being a single woman that recently bought a new home... I HOPE YOU CAN EDUCATE ME & FAST.... Im Freaking Out! 😬
Thanks for watching. Were you able to narrow down the leak?
You missed mentioning that leaks can come from cold flues, particularly when a cold water heater is first fired up and it sweats (condenses) internally.
Thanks for adding that detail. Water droplets can form on the flue, but this is not a huge source of water compared to a drain valve or relief valve.
It leaks behind the valve when I wanna flush it. I have a plastic round spigot.
Hi Scott, thank you for watching. Plastic drain valves are prone to cracking and leaking. Its often best to install a brass drain valve. You can see all the steps here: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html
Hey mine is leaking and making wissing noises
Thanks for watching. It would be best to wipe up the water, try to dry it down so you can observe where the water is leaking from. If it is from the drain valve or relief valve then it's an straight forward fix. If not then you might need to call a plumber.
@@AmreSupply thanks really appreciate your comment I was able to diagnose it and found the insulation inside was wet so we used the warranty and we are getting a new one again really appreciate you're video gave you a thumbs up and subed forsure 👍🏼
@@ryan9984 Thank you for the subscription! We're glad that you narrowed down the problem and we're just happy to have helped!
Thank you
You're welcome!
No mention of water leaking from bottom.
Thanks for watching. A leak from the bottom of the tank would be considered the inner tank, as mentioned in the video. As well since water flows a leak from the drain valve or relief valve can pool at the bottom of the water heater so those are always good to eliminate first.
@@AmreSupply -- Hello AMRE, thank you for your prompt reply. I was getting my wallet ready to buy a new water heater when I carefully inspected the top of the water heater. If water's pooling at the bottom, why the little puddle on the top, next to the in-flow pipe, sticking out of the tank? Careful inspection detected the problem: the in-flow hose connected to the tank's inflow port had a tiny leak -- just where the in-flow hose connects to its "nut" screw-on connector. The hose is the plastic wrapped with stainless webbing kind of jobbers. I replaced that in-flow pipe with a copper pipe and so far no leaks! There was one symptom that initially led to solving this issue: I noticed the pilot light would go out on the gas-fed Rheem (3 year old) water heater. Twice. Could the water saturating the bottom of the tank cause so much moisture that it puts out the pilot light? Seems so. I sucked water out with my shop-vac. Must've been at least half-gallon of water pooled inside the heater's bottom tray.
Thank you again! RG
@@rerite2 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Its good that you were able to narrow down the leak. Water pooling can be deceiving but you were smart to trace it up to the supply line.
Cheers!
@@AmreSupply --- Well, I'm stumped. The Rheem gas water heater pilot light won't work. I hear the gas going in. The blue indicator light flashes for a bit then turns red -- solid red. I guess the water did some kind of damage. The water heater has been drying out pretty well as it's hot weather now. Suggestions?
@@rerite2 If the pilot won't light at all then it could be an issue with the ignitor (check the wires to make sure its grounded) or the pilot orifice could be plugged.
If the pilot lights but doesn't stay lit then its likely an issue with the thermocouple (or thermopile), the wires or connections, or the thermal cutoff switch. You can see more in these videos:
Thermopile (electronic valve)
th-cam.com/video/UXpmmGuewk8/w-d-xo.html
Thermocouple (conventional valve)
th-cam.com/video/Lu5GvbvspMw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for giving advice on a 220 volt or gas appliance. A leaking water tank can easily short out when water leaks on the wires and the thermostat and there will be a loud noise with a fireball when it shorts out. 220 volts with a wet copper ground will kill you 99 percent of the time. A Gas water heater could be leaking due to a defective gas valve or safety. I wouldn't be given advice on appliances that can easily kill you or burn down you house.. Just my 40 Years experience.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. We currently don't have videos on electric water heaters but for all our videos we recommend unplugging / disconnecting the power before any troubleshooting. As for gas appliances, we recommend that any repairs of the gas fittings or the replacement of gas valves to be handled by a licensed technician.
If you cut off the power and close the gas, which you should do before working on it, then how can it electrocute you or burn down the house?
“If the insulation is wet…”
Our insulation is saturated. Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome! We just try to share some information to help people to narrow down the source. Note that a leak farther on one of the connections can leak onto the insulation so it's still best to eliminate all other sources first before assuming that the leak is coming from the tank wall.
Condensation can also cause water dripping and it is normal.
Thanks for watching. You are right condensation can cause water to drip, though it will often look a little different than a slow continuous leak. Still good to watch for.
Mine is 12 years old, I saw today is larking water from the bottom.
Thanks for watching. If the tank itself is leaking and not just the drain valve or threads, then you'll likely have to install a new water heater.
Our hot water heater is not working no hot water 5 days. First plumber says there is a keak
Thanks for watching. Were you able to identify a leak or a source for the leak? Normally a leak shouldn't prevent the water heater from heating unless it lost most of it's water. A faulty thermocouple or thermopile, a failed thermal cutoff switch (TCO) or a defective control valve can prevent the burner from staying lit and prevent the tank from heating. You can see more in these videos: th-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBwJ4a8MT2GKTDiSuvSHg6Xk.html
What if you have water leaking from both the relief valve and the drain valve?
Thanks for watching. If the water heating is leaking from both the relief valve and drain valve then it would be best to replace both valves at the same time. First start by draining the tank and replacing the drain valve as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/nGCejMsKNX4/w-d-xo.html With the tank drained, then you will also be in a position to easily replace the relief valve. th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
You didn't cover the magnesium rod leaking
Thanks for watching. Yes that is one more potential source of a leak. We do have a dedicated video showing how to replace an anode rod: th-cam.com/video/hTJv67imgaE/w-d-xo.html
Wish i just knew the name of these parts so I could fix them myself. Cant google it when you dont know the part name
Thanks for watching. The parts are listed in the description but the only part not specifically named is the dialectric union which connects the tank to the water supply. These can sometimes be part of the nipple and will be called dielectric nipples. You can see these parts here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
Something is going on my floor got water damage the floor is humped up under the carpet might be time for a new one 🤷♀️
Thanks for watching. It depends on the layers below the carpet, the water could be under one of these layers and might be pooling there. In any case it's worth making sure everything is dried properly to prevent any mold or rot from happening.
How is this useful at all? “Is there water? Call a technician.” What a genius.
Thank you for watching. Many people have found value in this video and both the drain valve and the relief valve are repairs that are simple to do. We have linked videos to show those repairs. Other repairs are more difficult and we have no problem pointing out when someone should call a plumber.
Don't speak until you know what your speaking of. Some of us like to do repairs ourselves.
I flushed my tank last night (I'd been away for a few days, and had it set on "pilot" so the water wouldn't be Hot.) I temporarily turned on the relief valve at the time. I went downstairs this morning, and the pipe was dripping. It's still dripping tonight.
If it ain't Broke...
Thanks for watching. The relief valve should be able to open and close properly as needed. It is possible that sediment has prevented it from closing properly or the valve is starting to wear down. We have a video showing how to replace the relief valve: th-cam.com/video/2qhsmSbQQzc/w-d-xo.html
My luck it was the tank thanks my guy
Thanks for watching. Sometimes it's an easy simple fix and other times it's more significant. Hope it goes smoothly.
Yes..that's my problem, inner tank leak :( $$$$$$$
Thanks for watching. Sometimes its not a small repair, but it's always good to check the simple things first. A water heater replacement is more expensive but can resets the situation which means there won't be surprises one or two years from now. That is always a risk with older water heaters.