I know it's probably not something you guys think about but I appreciate that your videos are "child friendly" as far as language, etc. My son loves to watch the videos with me before we try painting together and it's nice knowing I won't have to explain away some "adult" jokes, if you know what I mean. 😜 Much appreciated
Hey Eric, I’m super pleased your son enjoys watching the vids, and beginner friendly, child friendly (zero swearing) and general hobby wholesomeness is what we’re about. So thanks for watching and reminding us that even younger hobbyists like to watch and paint to these vids. 😍👍👍👍 - Peachy
I have the pot they talked about that traps the ball bearing. You need to shake the everloving crap out of it and even then, if it's sitting on your desk for too long the sediment gets SUPER goopy and yes, traps the ball bearing. Fantastic video. I've been loving these fellas even before peachy came onboard, but you know, he brings a fantastic dynamic to the shows. Thanks!
For bottles of paint or whatever that notoriously require a lot of mixing (looking at you, Vallejo) I keep colors I use on the regular laying on their side because it's much easier to mix up all the settled stuff if it's on the longer side of the bottle instead of the bottom.
Thanks for putting this video up gents. I had been getting really mixed results from mine (worked ok with the thick gloop in the lid, no reaction at all from the fluid in the bottle even with water). I had the same thing where I freed up the mixer ball only after a good stir. Even a vortex mixer wouldn't budge it. Happy days again. Getting those expect results thankyou.
Thank you! I bought some Dirty Down Rust after seeing your Gallowdark terrain video and was so underwhelmed with my results. After a serious stirring with an old brush it’s working perfectly now! I also definitely recommend watering it down and then dabbing into places then lots more water to spread it around. This gives a nice varied effect.
Ready to see Peachy do some Battletech! Does not matter which faction. I’ve learned something new from each video since he joined the team and look forward to more in the future.
Peachy has definetely increased my views of The Painting Phase, in fact I'm sorry to say I didn't know about the channel until Mr Peach popped up here. Partly down to my own hobby funk and loss of inspiration but having a well known and liked GW face arrive on the channel certainly brought me over for a look and the quality of the videos has kept me coming back. Good job everyone working on the channel 👍
little late; seeing you use a toothpick into the bottle tempted me to do the same. turns out my 'yeah its well mixed and shaken' DDMoss was infact, not at all mixed XD ran that toothpick around the bottom for 2 minutes and shook the life out of the bottle for another minute til i could see there was nothing left on the bottom when i flipped the bottle thanks yall!
I've found that this product also works well like a chipping medium. On my killteam ork terrain I primed black, heavy drybrush with leadbelcher, nuln oil (adding it later will ruin the rust effect), then dirty down the whole surface. Then the parts I want to colour, I stipple the colour on looking for about 90-95% coverage so that I know there will be small gaps. Works better if the paint isn't watered down, as it will reactivate the rust. Then wipe the paint with a wet brush where you want the paint to lift/chip. Works great around edges, battle damage, etc. How much you wipe these areas determines how much rust stays, and how much of the leadbelcher shines through. That's what I love the most about this product is how easy it is to manipulate both during AND after application. If you don't like how it looks, give it a tickle with a wet brush. Also, if you can't get the orange highlights, citadels ryza rust ftw (or a drybrush of any orange, red, brown that compliments the rest of the model)
Warm you dirty down in your hand for a few minutes then give it a good hard shake. If you don't hear the bearing flip it upside down give it a few hard taps on the cap on the table to free the bearing once you hear it shake it like a rattle can 10ish seconds if you don't mix it right you'll bronze whatever your trying to rust. Also the moss dirty down is absolutely gorgeous on terrain.
They all went super quick didn't they. We couldn't get one from element games because gw had stopped sending them to retailers. Assume they didn't make enough to meet demand?
@@thepaintingphase I think there is a supply chain problem as a lot of the printing is done abroad but obviously they are not going to address that publicly. Its the same with the Christmas boxes. Its a shame but i as many probably already have enough to be going on with, if we are honest. Dont like the FOMO tactics but i think its more deep routed and just a coincidental marketing.
@@thepaintingphase Im just talking out my arse, i have no insight to be honest. Although its unrelated but sort of adjacent to production a lot of Kickstaters for example have been delayed recently with brexit and strikes as well as the Covid fallout still. Whatever the reason its frustrating. I think its just a popular marketing tactic now to make things limited, I never once had a problem buying in store in the 90s, it was always abundant to the point of discounted grab bags .
I love the results Dirty Down creates, but the whole warming the bottle/blow dry afterward stuff has given me pause (oh, and it’s expensive too); I’m glad to see these explanations, for those that have taken the plunge! (Oh, and I predict your next video will be . . . new Cadians?)
I'm really struggling with the Dirty Down moss, I can get good results with the rust and the verdigris but the moss just looks lifeless and Matt, do you have any tips for me
so ist not necassary to use a shade before using the rust? for example agrax earthshade? i want to paint the kill team terrain from the nightmare box, dont know how its called properly, and my thoughts were, to start with leadbelcher basecoat and than adding agrax earthshade before using the dirty down rust...
After this I'm a bit more confident about dirty down paints. The one I really use is the moss one - could you please do a video for that one as I'm having trouble getting it to look as good as alot of photos of it and not sure if I'm using it right
Hey there! two things. 1. This video was great because it reminded me to buy the rust paint on Amazon. 2. Why don't you have an Amazon affiliate link set up yet!?!??!?! It's Black Friday and tons of people will be shopping there.
@@thepaintingphase Apologies! I did not mean to diminish that epic painting feat! Maybe it can be magically recreated one day? Love all the content! Cheers guys!
Do you find a major difference if you dry with or without a hairdryer? I've shaken my pot of dirty down rust INCREDIBLY well, got the ball-bearing moving, shaken it some more, and then shaken it again, and I still get a pretty lame effect. Wondering if I've got a bad pot, or if the hairdryer is crucial to a good effect...
I've followed all the given by you and other youtubers, and yes still can't achieve the same results as you do. I have one of the thinner, taller bottles and am starting to wonder if they changed the formula or something.
Geoff here, have you tried using a hairdryer on it, not just to warm the bottle but to actually create different effects. I often put a layer on and then put a dryer close to the rust (be careful not to melt the mini, or your hand), it can give good effects.
@@thepaintingphase Hello, thanks for the response! Yep, been using the hairdryer right after painting it on. I've stirred the bottle, warmed it up, heat the wall sections first too, tried it all yet i don't seem to get much of the orange coming up. It's all very frustrating - I've no idea what, if anything, I'm doing wrong.
@@thepaintingphase Did those older, more squat pots have the mixer ball in them? I'm wondering if the paint is sticking to that, as I just soaked the bottle in really hot water for quite some time, shook it like crazy then used it immediately and the effect seemed much improved...
Might sound a bit silly, but when you're air drying the rust paint, are you using a hairdrier with a just cold air setting or on heat? I ask because I've used heat before and it's wrecked the paint and I'm not sure if it's just bad luck, my ineptitude, or the hairdrier being hot (I used lowest heat)
Dirty Down’s website also suggests heating the bottle up in your pocket for about an hour before use. Still the Verdigris paint never seems to come out right.
Since this paint is water soluble, I've seen in tutorials that many paints that model painters use can cause Dirty Down paints to become activated again and start to run. I didn't see that happening in this video though. I'm bringing this up because I'm going to be adding heavy blood effects to my models with paints like Blood for the Blood God and Tamiya Clear Red and was wondering if those paints would reactivate the Dirty Down and ruin the rust effect or not?
It does reactivate when water is reapplied to it, but I would suggest you do the effects you want then just blast those areas with heat again should your rust effects lose some of its potency.
when I have used the dirty down rust I get a good brown grime appearance but I never get the orangey rusty colour. Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?
most of the contrast/speed paints do not need thinning,,, buuut depending on what you are trying to accomplish. Some of them are Very pigment rich and could use some dilution with a contrast medium, either pre-made or make your own. Try not to thin with just water as this will change how it works. easy contrast/speed medium 2:1 matte medium and distilled water, and a few drops of flow improver, Test over primed terrain and adjust amount of flow improver as needed.
Hey, so I didn’t varnish mine, as it does reactivate, and I it will lose its rust vibe. As we haven’t varnished ours we have t had any issues with reactivation, and it hasn’t chipped or lost it’s effect, and Pat is brutal with setting up and storing the scenery too lol. worst case all you need to do is reapply some rust and then leave it. Unless you play in the bath or in the rain I doubt you’ll have any problems with reactivation. Hope this helps - Peachy 👍
@@thepaintingphase thank you, yes mine completely dissolved, so I think I need to paint all first, varnish than apply the rust as the last thing to the terrain.
Hey guys. I just tried dirty down for the first time. And I did what this video said and I stirred it and mixed it and shook it vigorously. And it never turned into that rust color. It stayed a dark oily look. I don't know what I did wrong. But im super disappointed.
I bought the small bottle and after finding the ball glued to the bottom, I shook for ages but the rust effect still looks like an oily smear. Is anyone else having issues with the smaller tube?
Dear Peachy the Great: You have so much knowledge and talent. One request: Could you please slow down when you speak, because you talk fast and it's hard to pick up what you're brilliantly saying! (This from me, a person who talks super fast themselves). Thank you!
I shook it violently with a stone inside, I warmed it up in hot water and I warmed the surface with a hairdryer. It still dries up as glossy, watery diarrhea wash. It looks nothing like the dry, textured rust in Peachy's videos 😦
isn't there something about the Dirty Down products working best if they are slightly warm and the model it is being put on is a bit warm as well? or maybe that was some other technical product?
I believe on the bottle it says apply to a warm surface, peachy has had great effects with applying it then blasting it with a hair dryer so that's what we've filmed.
@@thepaintingphase ah, okay, sounds like a reasonable way to do it. I though the hairdryer was just for speeding things up, not for warming the rust AND speeding things up :) btw, something I'd enjoy seeing is a tutorial on is how to paint what would basically be NPCs, you know villagers who aren't soldiers or playable characters or similar. Either that or how to replicate the commando scheme from the hit game Star Wars Republic Commandos since they are more metallic grey than regular clone white :) sorry for grammar errors, headaches and spelling is a bad combo
@@thepaintingphase well, not officially... That might be a deal breaker for you guys, I know it is for some. Dark Fire Designs have made STLs of both regular Commandos and set dedicated to Delta Squad. They also have some licensed printers that print and sell them to us regular folks without 3D printers.
Good video and the results look great... audio on this was really odd, imho. There's no room tone at all, it sounds like Peachy's in a well-muffled narration booth... doesn't sound natural.
"How to paint your Dark Angels so they don't look like Salamanders" Cause really, everyone fails at this. Also, why are they highlighting dark green with neon green? Stop it! Or how about getting out of the miniature painting and tying some scale modelling? Try a Bandai Star Wars kit! Or a Formula One car? Maybe a World War I tank?
but... what about that other issue? yknow... the one where my wallet no longer contains nearly as much money as before, when i hadn't bought dirty down rust. and dirty down moss. and dirty down verdigris. and had to pay Brexit tax cuz i live in germany and didn't check beforehand. can ya help me with that? anyone? plz, I'm so hungry....
Your "black" paint doesn't actually look black, but more of a flat, middling (like, not even very dark) grey that sucks the life out of your pieces. I wonder how these would look with a base coat of actual black, or a black wash.
![⭐ฮิตในTikTok!! ( หมูเด้ง MooDeng ) Ver. แดนซ์โจ๊ะๆ ReMix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3krsyfWUeHU/mqdefault.jpg)
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I know it's probably not something you guys think about but I appreciate that your videos are "child friendly" as far as language, etc. My son loves to watch the videos with me before we try painting together and it's nice knowing I won't have to explain away some "adult" jokes, if you know what I mean. 😜 Much appreciated
Hey Eric, I’m super pleased your son enjoys watching the vids, and beginner friendly, child friendly (zero swearing) and general hobby wholesomeness is what we’re about.
So thanks for watching and reminding us that even younger hobbyists like to watch and paint to these vids.
😍👍👍👍 - Peachy
Peachy is so naturally cheeky on camera. So fun to watch, keeps the mood light. Moar peachy!
One could say he’s…Peachy Keen.
this'll look so epic on blanchitsu models! thanks peachy, pat and jeff!
Brilliant! Peach fan club
Peachy is so awesome as a presenter. It makes watching this channel such a joy.
I have the pot they talked about that traps the ball bearing. You need to shake the everloving crap out of it and even then, if it's sitting on your desk for too long the sediment gets SUPER goopy and yes, traps the ball bearing. Fantastic video. I've been loving these fellas even before peachy came onboard, but you know, he brings a fantastic dynamic to the shows. Thanks!
I added a second ball bearing to free the first one. I think it will soon get crowded inside there.
@@noctilithe1008At least if the bearings aren't entirely stainless, they can only increase the effect of the paint!
Yes! Just as I'm in the middle of doing the same waiting for the primer to dry. What a peach!
For bottles of paint or whatever that notoriously require a lot of mixing (looking at you, Vallejo) I keep colors I use on the regular laying on their side because it's much easier to mix up all the settled stuff if it's on the longer side of the bottle instead of the bottom.
Very good advice that, cheers Willian 👍
Leaving the terrain on the sprew to allow easier priming and painting! My mind is legitimately BLOWN!
Not something I normally do for miniatures, but scenery, definitely speeds things along
This channel has been a blessing
😍😍😍 aww shucks thanks! 👍
Alright so, apparently I had no idea what I was doing with this product before! Thanks so much 😁
You’re welcome, Peachy’s the man - Geoff
Thanks for putting this video up gents. I had been getting really mixed results from mine (worked ok with the thick gloop in the lid, no reaction at all from the fluid in the bottle even with water). I had the same thing where I freed up the mixer ball only after a good stir. Even a vortex mixer wouldn't budge it. Happy days again. Getting those expect results thankyou.
Thank you! I bought some Dirty Down Rust after seeing your Gallowdark terrain video and was so underwhelmed with my results. After a serious stirring with an old brush it’s working perfectly now! I also definitely recommend watering it down and then dabbing into places then lots more water to spread it around. This gives a nice varied effect.
I found leaving my bottle of dirty down by my radiator really helped loosen it up and helped mix it easier
Ready to see Peachy do some Battletech! Does not matter which faction. I’ve learned something new from each video since he joined the team and look forward to more in the future.
Great video guys and gang! :)
Thanks so much. We love your work too!
Another very good tutorial. And thanks for the advices on Dirty down rust, I got the problem you mentioned
Damn, that's amazing, some of those pieces have ceased to look like plastic and really look like pieces of rusted metal.
It’s an incredible paint, a game changer
Peachy has definetely increased my views of The Painting Phase, in fact I'm sorry to say I didn't know about the channel until Mr Peach popped up here.
Partly down to my own hobby funk and loss of inspiration but having a well known and liked GW face arrive on the channel certainly brought me over for a look and the quality of the videos has kept me coming back. Good job everyone working on the channel 👍
Well regardless we appreciated you all the same 🙏
Well regardless we appreciated you all the same 🙏
little late; seeing you use a toothpick into the bottle tempted me to do the same. turns out my 'yeah its well mixed and shaken' DDMoss was infact, not at all mixed XD
ran that toothpick around the bottom for 2 minutes and shook the life out of the bottle for another minute til i could see there was nothing left on the bottom when i flipped the bottle
thanks yall!
I have found dirty down rust to be very effective ! But as described in this video - it must be shaken ! Thoroughly
Artis Opus applied texture paint before the rust step and got fantastic results.
Thanks Peachy! I'm currently doing the terrain, and having issues with the dirty down. Very applicable for me!
🤜🤛 awesome! It’s like it was meant to be lol
I've found that this product also works well like a chipping medium. On my killteam ork terrain I primed black, heavy drybrush with leadbelcher, nuln oil (adding it later will ruin the rust effect), then dirty down the whole surface.
Then the parts I want to colour, I stipple the colour on looking for about 90-95% coverage so that I know there will be small gaps. Works better if the paint isn't watered down, as it will reactivate the rust. Then wipe the paint with a wet brush where you want the paint to lift/chip. Works great around edges, battle damage, etc.
How much you wipe these areas determines how much rust stays, and how much of the leadbelcher shines through. That's what I love the most about this product is how easy it is to manipulate both during AND after application. If you don't like how it looks, give it a tickle with a wet brush. Also, if you can't get the orange highlights, citadels ryza rust ftw (or a drybrush of any orange, red, brown that compliments the rest of the model)
Some great tips, thanks
Thank you for the great vid. Will try this
Good vid bruv; please keep making superior content!!
Cheers ACG, much appreciated 😍
Gonna try using my contrast paints over this then. The weapons look great!
Cool effect.
Warm you dirty down in your hand for a few minutes then give it a good hard shake. If you don't hear the bearing flip it upside down give it a few hard taps on the cap on the table to free the bearing once you hear it shake it like a rattle can 10ish seconds if you don't mix it right you'll bronze whatever your trying to rust. Also the moss dirty down is absolutely gorgeous on terrain.
Ma man doing it again 👊😁
Right back at ya 👊🏻
"Everything can be brought from the links" except the Shadowvault bloody box itself. Bloody scalpers and the like. GW is playing some funny games.
They all went super quick didn't they. We couldn't get one from element games because gw had stopped sending them to retailers. Assume they didn't make enough to meet demand?
@@thepaintingphase I think there is a supply chain problem as a lot of the printing is done abroad but obviously they are not going to address that publicly. Its the same with the Christmas boxes. Its a shame but i as many probably already have enough to be going on with, if we are honest. Dont like the FOMO tactics but i think its more deep routed and just a coincidental marketing.
@@Le_Petomane printing the paper/boxes etc? I know the codex are all printed in China, 3 month turnaround I was lead to believe.
@@thepaintingphase Im just talking out my arse, i have no insight to be honest. Although its unrelated but sort of adjacent to production a lot of Kickstaters for example have been delayed recently with brexit and strikes as well as the Covid fallout still. Whatever the reason its frustrating. I think its just a popular marketing tactic now to make things limited, I never once had a problem buying in store in the 90s, it was always abundant to the point of discounted grab bags .
nice I thought I was going crazy it worked so well when i got it and I even got a second bottle because I thought I got a bad batch
Holy shit thank you! I was so confused about why my bottle doesn't do anything cool.
You’re welcome.
I love the results Dirty Down creates, but the whole warming the bottle/blow dry afterward stuff has given me pause (oh, and it’s expensive too); I’m glad to see these explanations, for those that have taken the plunge! (Oh, and I predict your next video will be . . . new Cadians?)
Good God Peachy, you can't start out like that, I'm too weak in the knees to keep watching!
😂
Hahaha! I’m very sorry, I got carried away lol
Next up Peachy's head colour-shift.
Would it be possible to do a short video on dry brushing including brush prep, cleaning and how avoid chalkiness?
Very good video!
Peachy embracing his inner "Mr Rogers"
I'm really struggling with the Dirty Down moss, I can get good results with the rust and the verdigris but the moss just looks lifeless and Matt, do you have any tips for me
I’ve tried it, without any luck too. We’ll if Peachy can do any better than me - Geoff
Thanks for this, was struggling! Any tips on how to seal it with a varnish? I've tried on a little piece and it makes it gloss/brown again :(
so ist not necassary to use a shade before using the rust? for example agrax earthshade? i want to paint the kill team terrain from the nightmare box, dont know how its called properly, and my thoughts were, to start with leadbelcher basecoat and than adding agrax earthshade before using the dirty down rust...
You can if you like but it’s not necessary but you can also get a half way effect by thinning the dirty down.
I think Peachy should grow a mahoosive beard so you can be the three hairy painters
I’m lucky enough to own one of those vortex paint mixer things, I assume that won’t have any negative effect on a product like this?
None, if anything it’ll be really helpful.
After this I'm a bit more confident about dirty down paints. The one I really use is the moss one - could you please do a video for that one as I'm having trouble getting it to look as good as alot of photos of it and not sure if I'm using it right
Yeah I’ve recently got hold of a bottle and I’m looking at using it down the line 👍
@@thepaintingphase Thanks
This has become one of my favorite painting channels great work guys!! 👍👍
Thanks so much.
Hey there! two things.
1. This video was great because it reminded me to buy the rust paint on Amazon.
2. Why don't you have an Amazon affiliate link set up yet!?!??!?! It's Black Friday and tons of people will be shopping there.
Shake the heck out of it then invert it. If you see the bubbles through the bottom, the sediment is all mixed up
Good shout.
Okay Peachy…. When do we get to see you speed paint 100 Uruk-Hai in a day?
142 to be precise. 😂
@@thepaintingphase
Apologies! I did not mean to diminish that epic painting feat! Maybe it can be magically recreated one day?
Love all the content! Cheers guys!
Peachy didn't drill the barrels of the heavy bolters! Prepare for backlash! Lol I always forget
I just do it on purpose now 😂
My claim to fame is I once peed next to peachy in Bugmans 😂
Do you find a major difference if you dry with or without a hairdryer? I've shaken my pot of dirty down rust INCREDIBLY well, got the ball-bearing moving, shaken it some more, and then shaken it again, and I still get a pretty lame effect. Wondering if I've got a bad pot, or if the hairdryer is crucial to a good effect...
I've followed all the given by you and other youtubers, and yes still can't achieve the same results as you do. I have one of the thinner, taller bottles and am starting to wonder if they changed the formula or something.
Geoff here, have you tried using a hairdryer on it, not just to warm the bottle but to actually create different effects. I often put a layer on and then put a dryer close to the rust (be careful not to melt the mini, or your hand), it can give good effects.
@@thepaintingphase Hello, thanks for the response! Yep, been using the hairdryer right after painting it on. I've stirred the bottle, warmed it up, heat the wall sections first too, tried it all yet i don't seem to get much of the orange coming up. It's all very frustrating - I've no idea what, if anything, I'm doing wrong.
@@thepaintingphase Did those older, more squat pots have the mixer ball in them? I'm wondering if the paint is sticking to that, as I just soaked the bottle in really hot water for quite some time, shook it like crazy then used it immediately and the effect seemed much improved...
Might sound a bit silly, but when you're air drying the rust paint, are you using a hairdrier with a just cold air setting or on heat? I ask because I've used heat before and it's wrecked the paint and I'm not sure if it's just bad luck, my ineptitude, or the hairdrier being hot (I used lowest heat)
I hope the next video is about how to drill a hole in weapons 😂 those bolt guns made me cringe 🤣
Peachy will give his usual response ‘I paid that plastic, why would I get rid of it’. 😂
I want to give this a try, does it work good with flat dark grey plastic or is it best on shiny/metalic surfaces?
It works on just about any surface
Peachyyyyy!!! 🍑
LordDyson!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Camo would be helpful, thanks.
One it! In fact we have a vid dropping soonish, and another set of vids that will include some camo for the Astra Militarum army set.
Do you also put a varnish over it to protect and fix it in place?
No, the varnish reactivates the rust and will ruin the finish.
Do you seal the models at all to prevent the Dirty Down re-activating?
Dirty Down’s website also suggests heating the bottle up in your pocket for about an hour before use. Still the Verdigris paint never seems to come out right.
You know, I've struggled with verdigris too. Need to have another play.
Is that a bottle rust in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me?
@@thepaintingphase have you all experimented with moss effect as well? Rust seems to be the only one I can get to come out as advertised.
Peachy I have trouble with a rash, it’s very itchy. What is your painting tip to sort it out?
Stand in some shade, that should reduce any irritation. And should it continue burning rub in some Briar Queen Chill.
Since this paint is water soluble, I've seen in tutorials that many paints that model painters use can cause Dirty Down paints to become activated again and start to run. I didn't see that happening in this video though. I'm bringing this up because I'm going to be adding heavy blood effects to my models with paints like Blood for the Blood God and Tamiya Clear Red and was wondering if those paints would reactivate the Dirty Down and ruin the rust effect or not?
It does reactivate when water is reapplied to it, but I would suggest you do the effects you want then just blast those areas with heat again should your rust effects lose some of its potency.
when I have used the dirty down rust I get a good brown grime appearance but I never get the orangey rusty colour. Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?
Are you thinning any of the contrast paints?
most of the contrast/speed paints do not need thinning,,, buuut depending on what you are trying to accomplish. Some of them are Very pigment rich and could use some dilution with a contrast medium, either pre-made or make your own. Try not to thin with just water as this will change how it works. easy contrast/speed medium 2:1 matte medium and distilled water, and a few drops of flow improver, Test over primed terrain and adjust amount of flow improver as needed.
Hi Peachy, how can I varnish the dirty down? I used GW can varnish and Al the effect is lost.
Hey, so I didn’t varnish mine, as it does reactivate, and I it will lose its rust vibe.
As we haven’t varnished ours we have t had any issues with reactivation, and it hasn’t chipped or lost it’s effect, and Pat is brutal with setting up and storing the scenery too lol.
worst case all you need to do is reapply some rust and then leave it. Unless you play in the bath or in the rain I doubt you’ll have any problems with reactivation.
Hope this helps - Peachy 👍
@@thepaintingphase thank you, yes mine completely dissolved, so I think I need to paint all first, varnish than apply the rust as the last thing to the terrain.
Hey guys. I just tried dirty down for the first time. And I did what this video said and I stirred it and mixed it and shook it vigorously. And it never turned into that rust color. It stayed a dark oily look. I don't know what I did wrong. But im super disappointed.
Have you heated the bottle with a hair dryer and the surface you wish to paint?
@@thepaintingphase I heated the model. But not the bottle. I guess I'll try that.
@@thepaintingphase can it be clear coated over? Or does the clear mess with the rust effect?
Oooh! Is it cammo? :p xx
👍🏻
I bought the small bottle and after finding the ball glued to the bottom, I shook for ages but the rust effect still looks like an oily smear.
Is anyone else having issues with the smaller tube?
Have you heated the bottle as much as you dare, with a hairdryer?
Dear Peachy the Great: You have so much knowledge and talent. One request: Could you please slow down when you speak, because you talk fast and it's hard to pick up what you're brilliantly saying! (This from me, a person who talks super fast themselves). Thank you!
I will try it’s hard when your excited and enthusiastic lol
@@thepaintingphase Thank you, you are da bezt! :D
I shook it violently with a stone inside, I warmed it up in hot water and I warmed the surface with a hairdryer.
It still dries up as glossy, watery diarrhea wash. It looks nothing like the dry, textured rust in Peachy's videos 😦
Do you guys think this effect will hold over time or will it continue to produce a chemical reaction?
So far so good, tbh it’s still a pretty new paint, so I guess we will all have to ride that train and see what happens
@@thepaintingphase I've been on the fence about ordering it, exactly due to this. Do you guys mind if I keep asking from time to time?
isn't there something about the Dirty Down products working best if they are slightly warm and the model it is being put on is a bit warm as well?
or maybe that was some other technical product?
I believe on the bottle it says apply to a warm surface, peachy has had great effects with applying it then blasting it with a hair dryer so that's what we've filmed.
@@thepaintingphase ah, okay, sounds like a reasonable way to do it. I though the hairdryer was just for speeding things up, not for warming the rust AND speeding things up :)
btw, something I'd enjoy seeing is a tutorial on is how to paint what would basically be NPCs, you know villagers who aren't soldiers or playable characters or similar.
Either that or how to replicate the commando scheme from the hit game Star Wars Republic Commandos since they are more metallic grey than regular clone white :)
sorry for grammar errors, headaches and spelling is a bad combo
@@sweatilaa5325 have they made commando clones yet? I'd love to paint some of them.
@@thepaintingphase well, not officially... That might be a deal breaker for you guys, I know it is for some.
Dark Fire Designs have made STLs of both regular Commandos and set dedicated to Delta Squad. They also have some licensed printers that print and sell them to us regular folks without 3D printers.
@@sweatilaa5325 I'll check them out! Thanks
The problem people had was not shaking the bottle enough? Did not expect that 🙈
Good video and the results look great... audio on this was really odd, imho. There's no room tone at all, it sounds like Peachy's in a well-muffled narration booth... doesn't sound natural.
Sparkly Citadel Metallics ruin the effect imo They just never read as metal to my eye
Dirty down is just expensive. 20$, ouch
How about dusty terrain?
That can be arranged 👍
"How to paint your Dark Angels so they don't look like Salamanders" Cause really, everyone fails at this. Also, why are they highlighting dark green with neon green? Stop it!
Or how about getting out of the miniature painting and tying some scale modelling? Try a Bandai Star Wars kit! Or a Formula One car? Maybe a World War I tank?
but... what about that other issue? yknow... the one where my wallet no longer contains nearly as much money as before, when i hadn't bought dirty down rust. and dirty down moss. and dirty down verdigris. and had to pay Brexit tax cuz i live in germany and didn't check beforehand. can ya help me with that? anyone? plz, I'm so hungry....
Well we are sorry to hear that, try getting your feet on Only Fans, you’ll get food back on that table in no time.
Algorithm
10 pound? in this economy? no thanks
Your "black" paint doesn't actually look black, but more of a flat, middling (like, not even very dark) grey that sucks the life out of your pieces. I wonder how these would look with a base coat of actual black, or a black wash.