Remember to make the dirty down products lukewarm before using them. You can sit with the bottle between your thighs for a while or maybe submerge it is hot water a bit.
One thing about rust that I feel is noteworthy that I don't think you mentioned (unless I missed it): Applying water a bit more heavily and letting it sit and dry on the rust, especially on a heavier coat, will cause some lightening of the tone that happens fairly irregularly and organically. You can get some more orange/yellow out of it that way, which can help a lot to further sell the effect.
@@philpeters3689 True, but with Verdigris I really feel like I have absolutely no clue what I'm doing haha It seems to be random whether it darkens or brightens, or at least it feels that way to me. I don't use it nearly as often as the Rust (case in point, my Rust bottle is almost empty. Though admittedly I knocked it over once and spilled about 20% of it on my desk. Fine mess, that was. Looks like rust on a large scale too.), so maybe it's just lack of experience.
Thank you for cheering up my Saturday Vince!!! You showed "No Mercy" on that mech with your multiple combo approach. Wow! Can that thing still move? Love the moss the most. Have to get some. And the hat! Perfect humorous touch, but I couldn't shake an image of you as Poppa Smurf.😂❤
On my industrial bases I've tried putting Dirty Down on it, then putting water on it, and deliberately letting some drips of water sit there and evaporate naturally. It produces some really interesting super pale yellow patches.
i use the rust for like stains and stuff, if i also want a thicc rust of rust (u know like reaaaly old metal parts that havent been moved) i add a mixture of metalpowder, vinegar+salt+water and afterwards add pva glue, it looks brilliant 🙂
Only thing I'd like to add to this awesome tutorial, is that moving parts tend not to rust. So with pistons and joints etc, where 2 pieces of metal look like they would rub a lot they wouldn't likely rust and adds a nice contrast to the mini
I know I am 5 months late but I had excellent results with spraying the area with water and then using a make up sponge to take it off the top areas then stippling a metal over it.
The way I use rust and verdigris is with a blow dryer in one hand, and then I reactivate and move the paint around with just a wet brush. That's the only way I get results that aren't glossy.
Just vigorously masturbate with the bottle taped to your hand. 2 turns and you are halfway there. What also helped me a lot is laying it flat on the vortex mixer.
Thank you so much for your timing on this Vince. I'm just about done on all my junkyard orcs and recently bought some dirty down rust for an added pop. Lucky I have some brown contrast as well as some weathering powder, but the thought of combining them hadn't crossed my mind. Looking forward to trying this out!
Hi Vince. Thanks so much for taking the time to make and upload this vid. I love the products but they aren't intuitive to get the best out of them and the basics and the more advanced techniques with other paints is really useful. 👍
I thought I know how to use dirty down products. But thanks for showing all the additional ways to use them. I recommend the lighter rust. I always mix both of them to get more variety in the rust color.
I love these products. I use an oil wash on top of them, with selective application for a Nurgle Knight I painted. Came out really good with minimal effort.
I love the approach you took with these; slap them on from the bottle. I haven't noticed any difference when heating them up. But oh lord they need shaking for several years and then some
Love to see your take on their newer stuff as well. Thanks for such an informative video as always Also, I now know how I'm planning to do my Necromunda terrain quickly
I have recently started using these products I love them, I will definitely add the additional steps you showed with the other products to amplify the effect. Great video as always!
I've been doing Dirty Down before it was even a normal product in the US. The first time I saw it was an article on the Massive Voodoo website. I had to order it from Australia. This was the old-school formula that came in glass. I added Typhus Corrosion before adding DIrty Down. It is not the easiest thing to varnish and I wouldn't add a thick paint over it as it seeps through the paint. But when something is that rusted, I guess it doesn't matter too much.
I found that after applying the verdigris, if you do a quick wipe it makes it a real light color. Like the wiping messes with the activation in some way
I know it brings enamel into the mix but I've used panel liner red brown with pigment powder to make very realistic rust, it looks off going on but dries similar to the dirty down
@VinceVenturella - Thank you for this comment. Now I do not need to ask about why you're wearing the the beanie in the video. Also thank you for the wonderfully informative video as always!
I appreciate your tips and tricks on the dirty down products, especially the differences. Any tips, what to use to seal in the effect ahead of protect spray on top?
I was told by local hobby shop that if you use a Hair Dryer with the Rust or Yellow Rust (newer product) it causes a cracked/chipped rust effect like when you see something just falling apart from oxidation. It seems like when I use a hair dryer on any acrylic paint, like when glazing or using it on this product it comes out more satin even if the paint is normally very matte and sometimes its downright glossy and takes multiple passes with ultra matte. Do you use a hair dryer or heat and if so is there too much heat or any recommendations when using it? FYI I live in a high altitude dry climate so some things just work different when I try them. As always your videos are great and hands down you are the best hobby and miniature painting content creator. I am not joking, you are. I have been painting miniatures since the early 90s and no one has a passion like you and a skill level to match it. Please consider some classes in Colorado or just a state out this direction in the future.
So I didn’t notice a great difference with the hair dryer. It can have some small effects, but I might not have gone hard enough or warmed it up enough.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, I am probably going to set up a test on some plastic card. Prime it, airbrush on metallics then do thin plus heat, thick plus heat with each color. I see the effects in the local hobby store case, so its probably just going to take some trial and error. Cheers and I look forward to your next video.
Cool, I just saw a bottle of this product at my FLGS this week and was wondering how well it works. Looks like I’ll have to pick some up next time I’m down there.
Try with ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL. I played around with the Verdigris. The favorite technique was to slap a couple loaded brush fulls if the Verdigris then spray isopropyl alcohol 91% and mix all over the model. Remove excess with lightly damp makeup sponge. The isopropyl alcohol give the Verdigris a brighter look.
Something I tried is making the vertegris into a wash, 1 past drity down, 1 party water, and then applying like a wash. It actually works really well if you want a pretty heavy result as the wish will pool downwards like watrer does, giving it a more natural look. IDK if this is the best way, someone can prove me wrong, but it's worked for my chaos knight :)
Your beanie looks really fresh! Kudos for the color choice! And a happy wonderful weekend Maestro Venturella. I have stopped using dirty down, because odor and chemicals.. too strong for me. I use brown orange and bright orange kimera paints and dark verdigris and green oxide from monument hobby’s for verdigris. Oh and green oxide and some brighter green for moos. I now the strengths of dirty down but sadly I don’t want to use it for miniature painting because it seems so toxic. Maybe they change the formula in the future, that would may make me use them again. Cheers
Ah exited for this! Cheap in my country so i got em. My friend said using a hair dryer during drying was essential for the effect. Might be worth a gander and see what you think! Thanks for uploading and creating this sir!
The rust is great but not a fan of the verdigris. Think GW’s technical paint works much better. Also - mixing with pigment and contrast paint is next level! Never tried that before. Great idea and effect.
My favourite way is to apply DirtyDownRust then use a Glaze/Wash of Mournfang Brown to spread it out. Then use a RyzaRust wash and stipple in between. The lastly use some Red Rust Pigment on Top
Thank you Vince.. just might need to crack the seal on the bottles I have standing and try them out! (Long live when your LGS has a sale and you start buying stuff you one day might need, right..)
Lots of comments concerning varnish got me thinking. There are fixative sprays designed for 2d pencil on paper art that keep the pencil work from smearing. I wonder if this would work on a model as a barrier between the paint and varnish. I’ve got some experimenting to do…
Thanks Vince for another great video. I am a devoted Wappelian, and paint mostly with oils for no other reason than I enjoy it. Are there any advantages to using this over similarly-colored pigment in oil paint/washes besides a shorter drying time?
Hi Vince and thanks a lot for the tips, I will try those again when I get a chance. Do you know how they react if varnished (mat obviously) ? I am afraid they would reactivate and mess up the effect. Also I noticed a big difference if dried with a hairdryer or some hot air source, made them pop even more
Great vid, I use the rust and moss regularly. Vince, did you play around with adding much texture to the moss? As we can have tiny amounts of moss, all the way up to large growths of it. Would pigment, or something similar work there too?
Hi Vince, I’ve been using a similar product named Modelmate about 12 years ago for my vehicules and train rolling stock. It was available liquid and spray. Is it the same product ? It was available rust ,vertdegris, soot black, oil and a few more, in opaque, semi opaque, and translucid. Thank you very much for all your so helpfull vids.
Since the dirty down products are water soulable, cant we say their weakness is also water? If you get any sort of liquid on your minis while playing with them for example will it not break the paint?
What do you guys think about varnishing after applying the Dirty Down stuff? I use Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish via airbrush and did not notice any negative effects so far, but I read that you should not varnish afterwards.
I varnish everything with matt, and never had a problem with it. I do use an airbrush for varnishing, so that may be a factor as I'm not agitating it with a brush.
(obligatory warning about not using varnish over them... at least the spray varnish I've used completely destroyed the effects of these paints and i had to reapply over it)
Interesting, I have been using this for quite a while and have not had your experience. Maybe it’s the brand of varnish or how it’s applied. But that is a great insight!!! 😮😮😮 I use Vallejo Mecha and Ak varnishes. I use Vallejo thinner 80% and 20% Vallejo flow improver 60 40% mix. I apply 3 thin coats. I also use Tamiya X22 and X85 mixed with Tamiya thinner 60 40% mix and apply the same with airbrush! Thanks for the info!
I keep seeing mixed reviews about the effect being ruined when it's sealed. Now I am not sure if I should seal the paint and then do the effect or if it would be fine. I have used clear matte rattle can for years with no problems, but I would hate to see a lot of work and time wasted.
Personally my rust effect hasnt suffered to an airbrush application of Vince’s varnish mix 1:3 Satin-Ultramatte + some thinner. Maaaaaybe it darkened a tiny bit bit but it was ok for me
So I don't tend to varnish my models, but when I do, just a light single coat with the airbrush. Let it cure completely, then a second coat with the airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella Great! I typically use AK's Ultramatte and apply with a brush, but doing that with these products would just reactivate them. Unfortunately I suck at using an airbrush. So... spray varnish, then? 😅
Yeah, very different products. Game effects is really just simple acrylics with some extra varnish for finish changes. This is chemistry meant to react and dry in particular ways
Do you recommend doing the verdigris as the final stage of the paint job or is it possible to do the metallics and verdigris effect and then paint the rest of the model? Also, can you varnish it?
Generally it’s something you want to do last. You want to apply it to the element as though you’re doing it in the way it exists in reality. What I mean is starting with the base thing then building the layers that would exist in nature. (The verdigris is on top of the metals and so On)
I really should experiment more with the dirtydown products I have - will definitely be revisiting this guide later! Also digging the pink & teal hat - was that a purchased gift or a crafted one?
Interesting! I'd noticed their stuff, but not gone any further. Thanks for showing. The merch looks cool, but on the assumption that it'll ship from the US to Europe, I'll pass...
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Vince is the Chuck Norris of painting. Citadel pots would never dare to tip on Vince's desk.
Remember to make the dirty down products lukewarm before using them. You can sit with the bottle between your thighs for a while or maybe submerge it is hot water a bit.
Thinning using Isopropyl alcholol works really well!
One thing about rust that I feel is noteworthy that I don't think you mentioned (unless I missed it): Applying water a bit more heavily and letting it sit and dry on the rust, especially on a heavier coat, will cause some lightening of the tone that happens fairly irregularly and organically. You can get some more orange/yellow out of it that way, which can help a lot to further sell the effect.
Same with verdigris. It can go white if done heavy enough 😊
@@philpeters3689 True, but with Verdigris I really feel like I have absolutely no clue what I'm doing haha
It seems to be random whether it darkens or brightens, or at least it feels that way to me. I don't use it nearly as often as the Rust (case in point, my Rust bottle is almost empty. Though admittedly I knocked it over once and spilled about 20% of it on my desk. Fine mess, that was. Looks like rust on a large scale too.), so maybe it's just lack of experience.
Yes! You don't even need orange or yellow, you can get almost full white too
I have Mortarion on my desk right now. You’ve read my mind sir
Thank you for cheering up my Saturday Vince!!! You showed "No Mercy" on that mech with your multiple combo approach. Wow! Can that thing still move? Love the moss the most. Have to get some. And the hat! Perfect humorous touch, but I couldn't shake an image of you as Poppa Smurf.😂❤
I like how Vince takes an amazing looking model and makes it amazing in a completely different way.
On my industrial bases I've tried putting Dirty Down on it, then putting water on it, and deliberately letting some drips of water sit there and evaporate naturally. It produces some really interesting super pale yellow patches.
10/10 hat 😂
Got to dress for the weather(ing)!
The video is 7months old and I wanted to complement the hat, I had to scroll way too far to find the first comment about it. 💙 🩷
I really like to dry brush my base colour copper over the Verdigris! Looks amazing
Love your videos man , but I will be honest with myself I never will be able to replicate your master work 🎉 truly an artist
You can do it! I am no artist, it's all just practice. :)
i use the rust for like stains and stuff, if i also want a thicc rust of rust (u know like reaaaly old metal parts that havent been moved) i add a mixture of metalpowder, vinegar+salt+water and afterwards add pva glue, it looks brilliant 🙂
Great video, no surprise there. You're looking absolutely divine in that beanie.
Only thing I'd like to add to this awesome tutorial, is that moving parts tend not to rust. So with pistons and joints etc, where 2 pieces of metal look like they would rub a lot they wouldn't likely rust and adds a nice contrast to the mini
I literally bought them the other day, so this video was created for me. Thank you.
Not just another Dirty Down tutorial. Vince (of course) brings that extra something special.
Thank you very much 👍
You are very welcome
I know I am 5 months late but I had excellent results with spraying the area with water and then using a make up sponge to take it off the top areas then stippling a metal over it.
The way I use rust and verdigris is with a blow dryer in one hand, and then I reactivate and move the paint around with just a wet brush.
That's the only way I get results that aren't glossy.
Appreciate this excellent tutorial on how to best use the “dirty down” products….always something to learn, always fun!
Glad it was helpful!
some great ideas there thanks Vince!
You bet!
I did all of these techniques separately here and there, but to see the effect of combination is awesome - love it 🙂
Shaking the pots is never enough for me, I have to get a stirring stick to scrape it off the bottom and then vortex mix it for ages.
Yeah, same. Your shaking doesn't count until you hear the ball bearing. Lol
I tend to stick my bottle in a bowl of hot water to loosen it up
More bearings!
If you going to use it in a session.. put it in you pocket
Just vigorously masturbate with the bottle taped to your hand. 2 turns and you are halfway there.
What also helped me a lot is laying it flat on the vortex mixer.
Great products which I have not experimented enough with. Will definitely do more testing when I am painting skeletons.
Thank you so much for your timing on this Vince. I'm just about done on all my junkyard orcs and recently bought some dirty down rust for an added pop. Lucky I have some brown contrast as well as some weathering powder, but the thought of combining them hadn't crossed my mind. Looking forward to trying this out!
finally i understand how to usw those :D thanks alot
Glad I could help!
Really great to see dirty down on here! The US rep is great.
Hi Vince. Thanks so much for taking the time to make and upload this vid. I love the products but they aren't intuitive to get the best out of them and the basics and the more advanced techniques with other paints is really useful. 👍
I thought I know how to use dirty down products. But thanks for showing all the additional ways to use them. I recommend the lighter rust. I always mix both of them to get more variety in the rust color.
I love these products. I use an oil wash on top of them, with selective application for a Nurgle Knight I painted. Came out really good with minimal effort.
I love the approach you took with these; slap them on from the bottle. I haven't noticed any difference when heating them up. But oh lord they need shaking for several years and then some
I recently bought these and man am I happy I did. they work so well!
Love the tip of reactivating with contrast and classic products…brilliant 🙌🏻 thanks for the video 👌🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Cool effects 👍
Thank you for the tutorial, been curious about these. Might pick one up when I get the chance.
Finally the video I've been waiting for Vince to do since I bought the three bottles months ago. Thanks vinnie V
Hope you like it!
Thanks Vince, I love this stuff, but the moss especially felt kinda funky
I’ve had some great effects applying rust over under painting. Particularly over magentas and reds and oranges. Some really cool hues and tones.
Love to see your take on their newer stuff as well. Thanks for such an informative video as always
Also, I now know how I'm planning to do my Necromunda terrain quickly
Oh those are gorgeous! I just got the moss so it's great timing
I have recently started using these products I love them, I will definitely add the additional steps you showed with the other products to amplify the effect. Great video as always!
You are so welcome!
Thanks Vince
Really appreciate this video, Vince. I have these paints but I had very poor success with them. This is great!
Glad it was helpful!
I love this stuff!
Funny...I just finished my heavily weathered Imperial Titan only to see a tutorial about weathering :D
I've been doing Dirty Down before it was even a normal product in the US. The first time I saw it was an article on the Massive Voodoo website. I had to order it from Australia. This was the old-school formula that came in glass. I added Typhus Corrosion before adding DIrty Down. It is not the easiest thing to varnish and I wouldn't add a thick paint over it as it seeps through the paint. But when something is that rusted, I guess it doesn't matter too much.
Where were you a week ago? I just used all 3 of these on my Holy Havoc army and could have used your guidance.
Great review.
Although I'm curious, is there a story behind thr toque? 😆
Oh my goodness, yes!! I’m so happy for this video. I can never get my moss to work properly
I found that after applying the verdigris, if you do a quick wipe it makes it a real light color. Like the wiping messes with the activation in some way
Glad I could help!
Love the hat
Superbe example! Thank you for the vids!
I also warm them up a bit after shaking. I found it even makes the effects better!
I know it brings enamel into the mix but I've used panel liner red brown with pigment powder to make very realistic rust, it looks off going on but dries similar to the dirty down
Love this stuff but I dread the heavy mixing every time😂!!! Great video as always! Nice Hat! Your fave colors!!
My wife made it for me knowing my love of the colors. :)
@VinceVenturella - Thank you for this comment. Now I do not need to ask about why you're wearing the the beanie in the video.
Also thank you for the wonderfully informative video as always!
Thanks very much, really useful!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
I use mecha color rust texture and then use dirty down rust plus water. Makes really real looking rust
I appreciate your tips and tricks on the dirty down products, especially the differences. Any tips, what to use to seal in the effect ahead of protect spray on top?
Glad to help - Just a few quick coats of varnish through the airbrush.
I came for the hat...
I was told by local hobby shop that if you use a Hair Dryer with the Rust or Yellow Rust (newer product) it causes a cracked/chipped rust effect like when you see something just falling apart from oxidation.
It seems like when I use a hair dryer on any acrylic paint, like when glazing or using it on this product it comes out more satin even if the paint is normally very matte and sometimes its downright glossy and takes multiple passes with ultra matte.
Do you use a hair dryer or heat and if so is there too much heat or any recommendations when using it?
FYI I live in a high altitude dry climate so some things just work different when I try them.
As always your videos are great and hands down you are the best hobby and miniature painting content creator. I am not joking, you are. I have been painting miniatures since the early 90s and no one has a passion like you and a skill level to match it. Please consider some classes in Colorado or just a state out this direction in the future.
So I didn’t notice a great difference with the hair dryer. It can have some small effects, but I might not have gone hard enough or warmed it up enough.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, I am probably going to set up a test on some plastic card. Prime it, airbrush on metallics then do thin plus heat, thick plus heat with each color.
I see the effects in the local hobby store case, so its probably just going to take some trial and error.
Cheers and I look forward to your next video.
Great tutorial as always Vince 🎉
Happy to help!
Cool, I just saw a bottle of this product at my FLGS this week and was wondering how well it works. Looks like I’ll have to pick some up next time I’m down there.
Try with ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL. I played around with the Verdigris. The favorite technique was to slap a couple loaded brush fulls if the Verdigris then spray isopropyl alcohol 91% and mix all over the model. Remove excess with lightly damp makeup sponge. The isopropyl alcohol give the Verdigris a brighter look.
I'll have to give that a try.
Great demo
Something I tried is making the vertegris into a wash, 1 past drity down, 1 party water, and then applying like a wash. It actually works really well if you want a pretty heavy result as the wish will pool downwards like watrer does, giving it a more natural look. IDK if this is the best way, someone can prove me wrong, but it's worked for my chaos knight :)
Who is the little bird man in the thumbnail? I love him! The style is evocative of early digimon art and the Charakter design is just the cutest
It’s me! :) - I had a great friend do art for all of us.
Your beanie looks really fresh! Kudos for the color choice!
And a happy wonderful weekend Maestro Venturella.
I have stopped using dirty down, because odor and chemicals.. too strong for me.
I use brown orange and bright orange kimera paints and dark verdigris and green oxide from monument hobby’s for verdigris. Oh and green oxide and some brighter green for moos. I now the strengths of dirty down but sadly I don’t want to use it for miniature painting because it seems so toxic.
Maybe they change the formula in the future, that would may make me use them again. Cheers
Ah exited for this! Cheap in my country so i got em. My friend said using a hair dryer during drying was essential for the effect. Might be worth a gander and see what you think!
Thanks for uploading and creating this sir!
I've used a hair dryer some, my honest answer is I didn't see a large change in the effect.
@VinceVenturella Great to know, seems like an extra hassel step.
Thanks a ton for the tests and tips Vince!
The rust is great but not a fan of the verdigris. Think GW’s technical paint works much better.
Also - mixing with pigment and contrast paint is next level! Never tried that before. Great idea and effect.
My favourite way is to apply DirtyDownRust then use a Glaze/Wash of Mournfang Brown to spread it out. Then use a RyzaRust wash and stipple in between. The lastly use some Red Rust Pigment on Top
Thank you Vince.. just might need to crack the seal on the bottles I have standing and try them out! (Long live when your LGS has a sale and you start buying stuff you one day might need, right..)
Lots of comments concerning varnish got me thinking. There are fixative sprays designed for 2d pencil on paper art that keep the pencil work from smearing. I wonder if this would work on a model as a barrier between the paint and varnish. I’ve got some experimenting to do…
That's a super cool idea!
Saw the thumbnail and thought Vince got a wicked hand tattoo 😂
Vince did you just add pigment to your contrast paint pot?
Great stuff as always!
I use natural weathering. Paint your models normally and, thirty years later, they look weathered - voila !
Great stuff! Anyone have experience with these on top of a really dark base? Are they Opaque enough that they show well? 😊
Yep, they will still show.
What is the story behind the hat?
Multiple (two?:)) intense coats!
Thanks Vince for another great video. I am a devoted Wappelian, and paint mostly with oils for no other reason than I enjoy it. Are there any advantages to using this over similarly-colored pigment in oil paint/washes besides a shorter drying time?
The drying time and less time in general to get that varied rusty effect, but you could get there with other products like oils certainly.
Hi Vince and thanks a lot for the tips, I will try those again when I get a chance. Do you know how they react if varnished (mat obviously) ? I am afraid they would reactivate and mess up the effect. Also I noticed a big difference if dried with a hairdryer or some hot air source, made them pop even more
Yeah, you want to do a couple light coats through the airbrush.
Have you worked out how to fix it when you're happy, so a varnish coat doesn't reactivate?
I don't varnish often, but I've never seen any issue varnishing lightly with multiple coats through my airbrush.
Hello, great movie. Can I apply matte varnish after work?
Yes you can!
Does it react poorly if you go over with some harsher stuff such as oils, enamels, and their thinners?
Nope, no issue, that is another way to get some cool effects.
@@VinceVenturella Neat!
Great vid, I use the rust and moss regularly. Vince, did you play around with adding much texture to the moss? As we can have tiny amounts of moss, all the way up to large growths of it. Would pigment, or something similar work there too?
Yep, works much the same as the rust, love it.
Hi Vince, I’ve been using a similar product named Modelmate about 12 years ago for my vehicules and train rolling stock. It was available liquid and spray. Is it the same product ? It was available rust ,vertdegris, soot black, oil and a few more, in opaque, semi opaque, and translucid.
Thank you very much for all your so helpfull vids.
Since the dirty down products are water soulable, cant we say their weakness is also water? If you get any sort of liquid on your minis while playing with them for example will it not break the paint?
I haven’t had any issues, but my models aren’t getting wet admittedly. You can always give a simple light varnish through the airbrush to lock it in.
Have you found a way to prevent reactivation? My experience is that varnishes tend to really mute the effect of DD products.
Two light coats of varnish with an airbrush should seal it.
Can this product be of use for oil painting to accent certain areas of the painting?
What do you guys think about varnishing after applying the Dirty Down stuff? I use Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish via airbrush and did not notice any negative effects so far, but I read that you should not varnish afterwards.
I varnish everything with matt, and never had a problem with it. I do use an airbrush for varnishing, so that may be a factor as I'm not agitating it with a brush.
I don't varnish often, but I've never seen any issue varnishing lightly with multiple coats through my airbrush.
(obligatory warning about not using varnish over them... at least the spray varnish I've used completely destroyed the effects of these paints and i had to reapply over it)
Interesting, I have been using this for quite a while and have not had your experience. Maybe it’s the brand of varnish or how it’s applied. But that is a great insight!!! 😮😮😮 I use Vallejo Mecha and Ak varnishes. I use Vallejo thinner 80% and 20% Vallejo flow improver 60 40% mix. I apply 3 thin coats. I also use Tamiya X22 and X85 mixed with Tamiya thinner 60 40% mix and apply the same with airbrush! Thanks for the info!
always a chance I went too heavy (since it was on some Ork barricade terrain), or it's the rattle can propellant...
I keep seeing mixed reviews about the effect being ruined when it's sealed. Now I am not sure if I should seal the paint and then do the effect or if it would be fine. I have used clear matte rattle can for years with no problems, but I would hate to see a lot of work and time wasted.
Personally my rust effect hasnt suffered to an airbrush application of Vince’s varnish mix 1:3 Satin-Ultramatte + some thinner. Maaaaaybe it darkened a tiny bit bit but it was ok for me
This did happen to me with Vallejo matte/satin mix through the airbrush
Thanks for the video Vince. I’m curious do you prefer Dirty Down Moss over AK Interactive Moss Deposits?
Haven't tried the AK yet, so can't say.
@@VinceVenturella gotcha thanks Vince! Going to order some dirty down moss to kick my Lizardmen bases and terrain up a notch.
5:42 DID I HEAR A ROCK AND STONE
Just a question; how do you varnish these without ruining the effect? Can you use spray varnishes?
So I don't tend to varnish my models, but when I do, just a light single coat with the airbrush. Let it cure completely, then a second coat with the airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella Great! I typically use AK's Ultramatte and apply with a brush, but doing that with these products would just reactivate them. Unfortunately I suck at using an airbrush. So... spray varnish, then? 😅
How do you feel these products compare to the Vallejo Game Effect ones? It feels to me like they're meant to be used in kind of different ways.
Yeah, very different products. Game effects is really just simple acrylics with some extra varnish for finish changes. This is chemistry meant to react and dry in particular ways
Do you recommend doing the verdigris as the final stage of the paint job or is it possible to do the metallics and verdigris effect and then paint the rest of the model? Also, can you varnish it?
Generally it’s something you want to do last. You want to apply it to the element as though you’re doing it in the way it exists in reality. What I mean is starting with the base thing then building the layers that would exist in nature. (The verdigris is on top of the metals and so
On)
@@VinceVenturella great, thanks Vince. I also read that varnishes can reactivate the solution which can ruin the effect, is this true?
I really should experiment more with the dirtydown products I have - will definitely be revisiting this guide later!
Also digging the pink & teal hat - was that a purchased gift or a crafted one?
Glad it was helpful! My wife made it for me. :)
@@VinceVenturella My wife also does knitting and crochet - good hobbies to pair with mini painting it seems!
Hi, love your content - this is 420 tho, not 421
While Dirty Down is expensive, you get a lot of mileage out of a single purchase of it since it takes very little to get huge results.
Interesting! I'd noticed their stuff, but not gone any further. Thanks for showing. The merch looks cool, but on the assumption that it'll ship from the US to Europe, I'll pass...
How would the moss look on Ork flesh
Probably strange honestly, too much texture
Does varnish work normally over this stuff?
Yes, but you'll want to apply it through an airbrush.