Stucco: Install with Exterior Rockwool Insulation AND Ventilation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I'll show you a traditional 3 coat stucco installs with a drainage plane PLUS Rockwool exterior insulation! I'm using Rockwool's Comforboard 2" thick R-8 rigid insulation panels
www.rockwool.c...
And Dorken Delta-Vent SA - www.dorken.com...
And Boral's Drain-N-Dry Lath with Delta-Dry Technology!
boralamerica.co...
Thanks for watching!
Check out Matt's Picks on his Amazon Store (affiliate link)
www.amazon.com...
That is a beautiful and probably shockingly expensive assembly! Way cool to be able to work on those level of project!
A lot of people here in Charlotte probably wish their houses had this system in place and not the fiasco of 20 years ago. Love it.
Thanks for the Duluth mn mention. Love your channel and thanks for all the great building info
Very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Lemon Project looking great!
Spectacular assembly. Love that Boral Drain-N-Dry with a 3 coat stucco and that smooth LaHabra finish. Would love to have seen the detail for the top vent assembly. Every high-end stucco project should go with this. Those long cap screws must have been a pita to get everything consistent. Boral suggests using staples and shows that in their installation vids on normal (non-insulated exterior wall) jobs.
No one in Vegas builds a home like you
Matt can you show how this product would look with brick or rock facade?
All those screws should make up a significant thermal bridge
Actually they don't. Building science laboratories have dispelled that myth a long long time ago.
@@johnclark7406 not true. On a frosty day you can see every screw through the finish just like seeing trusses in frosty roofs. Looks terrible. Best assy is bluekin 100 and a glued on (grooved for drainage, or with integrated rain screen, specialized eifs insulation panel, then stucco coats w/ embedded mesh etc. and then finish coat. Also, stucco curb stop around every window set with a 3/16 gap from window. Install backer rod and caulk to seal properly and to prevent cracking from expanding and contracting windows. You'll save a fortune on 6"screws as well. ...and nothing will save you from woodpeckers
@@deeremeyer1749 Steel fasteners (galvanized or stainless) do not significantly degrade whole wall R-Value. As for your rust comment, it's not really relevant. Exterior walls as a whole experience some condensation, and bulk water intrusion. Clearly if rust was such a concern then where are all these stick built homes which have collapsed because rusty nails no longer hold?
That looked like a small fortune in 6 " screws.
I don't think they are short on money for this build.
Both are true.
4 inch wouldn't work
@Jamie Bower : Where did you "see the cost of the screws"? I'm not finding that information anywhere in this video or in the products list below the video. Thanks.
The only thing that concerns me is the surface area of those button caps. Not sure you will get the same bond as the lath which sets up a different dynamic it seems like the windows are being buried in the system Usually your stucco terminations but against the windows. It seems the windows would need to be set out further in the plane of the wall. The 2” insulation would burry the windows by itself. I am sure it looks good though. Cant beat a well done stucco :)
You mentioned not having control joints at the beginning but I believe it was left out. Can you provide more info on that?
Yes sorry! I much prefer to do everything I can to resist cracking. Fiberglass, excellent stucco contractor, water and wait after scratch and brown, etc. then I coach my clients that small hairline Cracks or to be expected and are not defects. I might consider making a video on this specific topic. Even with control joints, I often see rogue cracking on stucco houses. I much prefer this look. It’s similar to houses in California that are 100+ years old and have stucco that still performing well but has some minor cracking. What do you think?
Thanks for the quick reply, I really appreciate it. I agree! We are building a house now in Florida (we are the homeowners) and your videos have been very helpful. This was perfectly timed too as we are needing to select a stucco finish. I really like the smooth Santa Barbara finish. Would you classify what you did as Santa Barbara finish?
Stucco (cement) is brittle. Wood is (somewhat) flexible. Stucco will always crack on wood framing. As Matt mentions, control joint or not. He also correctly mentions that this is not a defect. Wood and cement just have two completely different characteristics.
Matt: the finish coat looked to be troweled pretty smooth. Does that tend to crack noticeably more than a float or "sand" finish? It's accepted wisdom here in minnesota that smooth troweled stucco is guaranteed to "check" crack or have surface cracks.
It All sounds great!! A bit confused in the order you explained it. 'Here, behind this, then behind that' ok, yeah. lol. My small back room Only has Wood lap cedar boards, 2x4 'frame' and a cheesy panel, that's it. Still gets cold in Fla.
I'm removing Panels, - have Mold, few small 'holes' Let sun in. PondS inside are a Nice Touch! - fell thru roof 1 1\2 times, kind of need a Water Barrier. Rockwool has gotten my attention, but won't need till later. Still intersected in Raising Flat Worthless Roof to Meet House's Original with open ceiling. hint
Beautiful work there!! mine is just Very Tiny.
Oh! I Will Check out links - THANKS So Much!
Any update on how it looks like after two years? are these screws the only option? Would the amount of screws affect your delta vent SA? Anyone who has tried this out? We are doing something similar but struggle with detailing?!? Boral Drain-n-dry says their product "one that requires less fasteners and fewer penetrations", does this contradicts one of the purpose of the lath? If anyone else had tried this, please send a link and reviews?
Thanks for the video! Why did you choose to use a permeable house wrap? I would think it would be best to use a vapor retarder house wrap, so the wall assembly would be: sheathing, vapor retarder, rockwool, then the drainage lath mat, then stucco. So the vapor drainage and drying could happen on the exterior of the rockwool, but not get through to the sheathing. Your insight would be much appreciated, as I am designing a home with a similar wall assembly in Virginia. Thank you!
I'd love to understand the wall venting details on the top and bottom of the wall. We have an enclosed soffit; where do you vent it and how do you keep bugs/rodents out, especially termites? I know Rockwool is rodent proof but I 'd like to know how you manage the detail so insects like spiders a& termites don't make nests in nooks. Thanks!
Hey Matt. Roxul appears to require sold backer board on purlins when installing ComfortBoard IS with stucco. Did they sign off on this?
That's what I thought too. I thought Mineral Wool, unlike XPS, required clips, purlins and backer board because it does not have the strength/rigidity to support stucco. If this is not the case, I'd like to know because eliminating the need and cost for the clips, purlins and backer board would make stucco over mineral wool a lot less expensive and labor intensive.
@@Seattle-2017 See this Link I also posted above. They looked at nail deflection on up to a foot of Mineral wool, and it seemed to hold up well. They were spacing screws every 12 inches, too, and not every 6 like here. buildingsciencelabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/CCBST-2017-Structural-Testing-Screws-through-Thick-Exterior-Insulation.pdf.
Which cap fastener did you use? and if it is a blank that is crimped by a machine/screw gun, what is your setup?
Hey Matt, Rockwool have in their installation manual the use of furring strips and even backer board for heavy weight cladding such as stucco? What is your take on that and why you didn't use at least furring strips to support the lath and thus the weight of the stucco?
Furring strips wouldn't work well here, though, would they, as the lath would get wavy? I was interested in why not furring strips with concrete backerboard, as well. It is extra weight, I guess.
Which is more expensive (1) the cost of all those long fastener used on the current assembly or (2) the cost of installing a layer of sheeting over the exterior Rockwool using a fraction of the fasteners and then just stabling the rain screen/mesh to that surface?
Without the synthetic lath wrapping around the edges of the Rockwool near the corners of the windows, how does that surface get finished without cracking?
EPS foam with a roll-in detail
That makes sense, thanks!
The air vents bottom, top? And what happened with expansion joints?
Interesting! I wonder if this could be used to retrofit a fire resistant exterior (Say 1 inch comfortboard, that mesh, and then stucco) to existing wood siding homes?
Do the panels come in colours
So cold air moves behind or between the mineral wool and the CMU wall? How is that insulation of a building when the outside and the inside of the mineral wool are the same?
Won't that many screws going all the way back into the studs cause a fair amount of thermal bridging? Genuinely curious. Everything else makes sense!
I'm genuinely curious. Matt seems so keen on a tight envelope, and in thermal terms, fastening with so many metal screws seems like poking a bunch of holes in the envelope. Maybe it can't be avoided. Non-metal screws? Just fewer?
If you use stainless steel screws, the thermal bridging is pretty small (stainless steel is more resistant to heat conduction). I read somewhere it's around 5%. Just beef up the insulation if it's a problem in my opinion.
That’s a good question. Ultimately those screws on the outside are not adding much BTU load to the house, so we’ve got a giant blanket of exterior insulation and the façade my client wanted, but yes a few BTUs are lost along the way with that bridge. Overall this will be a Very efficient house. In regards to the screws penetrating the Delta Vent SA house wrap, I’ve seen the Tests and they seal very well around the screws. Plus there is no capillary action to draw water in because of the air gap equalizing pressure. Make sense?
Yes, that makes sense. Thanks! Love the show!
Tyler Ault I believe it is this house, too, that he's using the flash-and-batt method of insulation between the studs. A few inches of closed-cell spray foam to seal the wall and give it added racking strength, with the rest of the cavity filled with Rockwool's Safe-n-Sound batts. So whatever screws have missed a stud and are left exposed on the interior of the stud bay (and there are bound to be more than a few) will be easily taken care of by this.
Matt, could you let me know the source for those "cap fastener's" and screws?
So, are you saying that throwing in a handful of fiberglass insulation will prevent the stucco from cracking, eliminating the need for control joints? I see the logic, but I’m just not sold on it.
Why did you choose to use Delta Drain-N-Dry rather than Delta Dry Stucco & Stone as the rainscreen? Did you use Delta VentS as a secondary vapor barrier over the Rockwool before putting on the rainscreen? thanks.
That looks excellent but labor intensive and VERY expensive.
Hey Matt I was hoping you tell me how the weep screed detail works with 2” of exterior insulation under your stucco. I’m working on a project right now that calls out for 2” of foam but all of my stucco contractors are saying that the weep screeds sand j molds don’t exist for a 2” foam application. And I’ve seen your videos and no it can be done. Hoping you can point me in the right direction.
Hi I am a stucco contractor in New Jersey. We are just getting into this Rockwall product for a huge project and I’m not sure how to handle the window details as you’re describing. How can we have a Stucco return? And how do we handle the expansion control joints throughout the walls? I’m also installing the La Habra cementitious finish like in this video.
I have the same question. Did you ever get an answer?
Never seen anything like that backing job for stucco. Impressive, but labor costs must be high! The fibers work well, but won't prevent all cracks. Used on my home built 20+ years ago - large walls will inevitably get shrinkage cracks, and seismic activity will add more over time (I'm in California)
Absolutely. There is two basic types of stucco (can you see where I’m going with this?)
1) Stucco that has cracks
2) Stucco that will soon have cracks
They key is to tell clients to expect them and do a good job of waterproofing under the stucco so water behind doesn’t matter. This is why I like this Ventilation method so much.
Matt Risinger How do you install ventilation in stucco? You've got that rock wool that should easily ventilate thru the stucco itself, right? What additional measures do you add for additional ventilation?
a LOT of work $$$ fastening this system together...
What is the stone applied to the exterior?
Do you know if that is a Crystal White or Dove Gray LaHabra color? Also, would you classify the smooth surface as a Santa Barbara finish? We are building a home right now and love what you're showing.
Matt, this is exactly what I need! But how did you hold up the Rockwool while you attached the Drain-N-Dry? (Also would love to see the answer to the question below which is comparing this to Delta Dry Stone and Stucco.
Something I don't understand about exterior insulation construction: What path does the weight of the exterior material (stone and stucco in this case) take to get to the ground? It isn't though the insulation, is it? Would really appreciate knowing. Thanks.
The load path is on the screws in this case. You notice we used lots of them
Thanks
What do you use on the corners and around the windows
With the exterior rockwool and air venting behind the stucco, How are they protected long term from mice, bugs, and etc?
i think the rockwool is rodent and insect resistant. not proof, but i don't think they like the material, that's what i've read.
Add insect screening at the vents.
Matt, how did you get around not needing expansion joints?
Matt, love your videos! Would the process be mostly the same if you were finishing on top of XPS? I'm looking to do an insulation retrofit of an above grade basement and all building science research indicates it's best to insulate to the exterior but I'm finding very few options on how to finish the XPS to adequately protect it. Thanks in advance for your time!
I did a video years ago about an insulated slab you might watch. You could potential he install X PS, then a cement backer board, and one coat of a synthetic stucco on top. There’s much less concerned if the concrete wall is back behind the XPS instead of wood framing
Ok first question why 6" screws I would have liked to see the framing I guess made me wonder why so many screws?
I probably went overboard on the number of screws, but as far as I can tell this is one of the first houses in North America with 2 inches of exterior Rockwool, an air gap, then traditional 3/4” Stucco. We took lots of input from the engineers and manufacturers then added more for a safety factor. Ultimately it’s my reputation and warranty on the line here.
matt, i've read about other people doing in on www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/. that's how i decided to do it to my house.
Can we do this on a house that's not 1-3 Million? Maybe 200-500k?
Whyyy Matt&! Whay u dont bouild it from blocks, brick or concrete? Why WOOD FRAME?
ofcoZ roof in 95% is wooden and some metal frame sometimes. But it is a big and not cheap house, i prefer a concrete floor and wall.
But i really like ur logic - im from Russia and we most dont like (in 90%) wood frame houses, but it still popular in Russia because it is cheap. I think we dont have even one expencive wood frame house in Russia like this. Really. But ur logic.... wood roof - wood house genius!!! u made my day LOL.
by the way roof of my house really made from concrete and it is flat.
does gas silicate blocks popular in america? Like this YTONG th-cam.com/video/JkmZbSRQ6F4/w-d-xo.html (it was har to find ENG videos)
that why im askin about this blocks - wall 400mm (D400) not need additional insulation at all. A have a house with 500mm walls of this block and we have -30C this winter, it works very well. Anyway most popular a 400mm walls, i buld 500 just for my patience.
anyway u can build 300mm wall with 150-200mm insulation rockwool
Braun09tv did u see blocks like this in usa?
If money is not an issue (as it seems in many of Matt's builds), the #1 reason would be FIRE. Just sayin....
I understand your aversion to wood frame houses, especially in a climate like Russia. That said, you should look up cross-laminated timber (or CLT) framing. It's a structural panel of solid wood, made from layers of wood laying at 90° angles, like giant plywood. They're as strong as concrete, more resilient than steel, and much more eco-friendly than both (because they're usually manufactured from wood source from sustainable forests, and you can always grow more trees).
Just erect your whole house out of CLT panels, wrap it in a water barrier and rockwool insulation, and you're done. Timber home with none of the issues of wood framing.
I’m curious what product the lathers used for the corners. Standard corner aide or plaster stop. Was any weep screed used? Why was some of the house scratched and browned, other areas scratched, browned and had the finish color coat and other areas just lathed? Seems like the stucco crew will be making numerous trips to the site.
Great question. We used the standard metal weep screed at the base and metal corners. The area in the front that wasn’t stuccoed yet gets a cut stone veneer. Should have made that more clear in the video. Thanks for commenting.
Matt Risinger Thanks for answering my questions. I’m glad you added extra fibers in the mix because that fine sanded la habra makes very small cracks look way more dramatic than they really are. The fibers will really help to prevent cracks. Love the videos
What happens when the rain gets in and freezes?
Mineral wool is hydrophobic, with the rain-screen (air space) between the stucco and insulation, even if the water freezes on the surface of the insulation, it will be able to thaw and dry.
@MattRisinger haven't you learned not to handle fiberglass with bare hands? March 30th I put out a brinks fire and just the fines stuck to the house when I cleaned and rolled it up irritated my hands for a week.
True. Good call.
Matt Risinger just make sure you don't rub your eyes. Stay safe Matt.
Hello Matt! how would you install it on a masonry wall (CMU)? screws as well?
Did you ever figure this out? I'm curious as well.
Matt I love your videos but don't understand the concept of vented exterior insulation. Does the airflow not negate the effects of insulation?
AFAIK, the insulation is tight up against the exterior wall, The vented gap is between the stucco and the insulation.
Bruce A ahhhhh that makes more sense. I thought he meant in between the insulation and the sheathing
Correct
So is the Delta Vent peel and stick applied directly over sheathing behind the rock wool? Does the base flashing and head flashings also extend back to the Delta/sheathing layer? We are designing a similar wall system right now and I want to locate the WRB and air barrier in the correct plane. Assuming that is the last resort waterproofing layer but you still need the drainage plane directly behind the stucco. Thanks!
I know nothing of stucco. Would adding an additive such as Xypex to the scratch/brown/top coat help with water shedding?
www.xypex.com/
Boy I hope you don't have woodpeckers there. They will love that rock wool for nesting.
Why do ppl like stucco?
It holds heat all night
BTW I went to high school in La Habra, Calif
It’s a beautiful, durable cladding that should last for a generation without much maintenance. Any mass will hold heat. That’s why it has Insulation between the house and the Stucco and Rock on the outside
Matt Risinger
Even with the insulation there will still be heat surrounding the home that will radiate through most of the night!
Most types of siding absorb less heat, more slowly and are not as thick as stucco.
brian that is dependent on your weather. Mass is great for Mediterranean countries... the day heat takes time to be asbsorbed maintaining the houses cool during the day. At night temperatures are lower so it usually cools it off... and only during severe heatwaves does the thermal mass actually have a negative impact
Stucco is also an excellent fire resisitant cladding.
Brian Curwick, it's actually a benefit to have"Mass" on the outside of your insulation. Yes it soaks up heat and is warm at night, but it also is cool in the morning and keeps your house cool longer into the day. Also, if you don't like "Mass" , then I'm guessing you would have more of an issue with the stone on the wall than the stucco. Stone is 5 times thicker and much denser. What kind of siding is your favorite?
Talking about 6" screws, holds his hands a foot apart. Classic mens mannerisms
haha good catch
Shouldn't it be the other way around? Holds his hands 6 inches apart and calls it a foot?
If anyone is curious as to the durability of this, see this paper, which measured deflection of screws with between 3 inches of Rockwool and 12 inches with furring strips. Long story short, there is minimal deflection observed even with 25 pounds per fastener. buildingsciencelabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/CCBST-2017-Structural-Testing-Screws-through-Thick-Exterior-Insulation.pdf