Exterior Insulation - What NOT to do! (And the Correct Way)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2019
- Today's video is sponsored by my friends at ROCKWOOL and we will be talking about how to use their Insulation on the outside of your new BUILD. I'll start by telling you a horror story of one of the first homes I built with Exterior Insulation and the massive issues that happened by not installing it with an eye towards Building Science. Next, I'll walk you through the case for Outside Insulation AND tell you assemblies and methods that work! I hope you enjoy this deep dive into Exterior Insulation! -Matt Risinger
Follow Matt on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, ROCKWOOL & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Dorken.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Viewrail.com
www.Rockwool.com
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Matt, as a long term member of the building community I enjoy your videos. They're full of great info on the newest products and trends in the industry. However, guys like you just don't get certain things when it comes to building durability. Caulk, sealants, tapes and self stick building wraps will not keep out water long term in all but the driest, warmest climates. Even then it will not totally prevent water damage, although it can greatly delay it. What works is what has always worked. Carefully, and properly applied flashing,( real flashing, not tapes,and other self stick products.) and over hangs on a building. A building with out over hangs will eventually have water infiltration. My own home was built by my company over 35 years ago. It has none of the high tech water sealant products you use. It does not have a drainage space between the siding and the sheathing to allow for water drainage. What it does have on my 2,700 sq ft ranch style home is a hip roof with two ft over hangs all the way around. After 37 years there is zero water damage of any type. This is despite the 45 inches of precipitation we have in my area per year.Often wind driven. Get the point? Many modern building designs will have water infiltration no matter what products you use to prevent it because the design does not include over hangs. No one wants to accept this, I didn't either when I was younger,but one must often decide between building esthetics, and building durability. Hope this gave you and your viewers some food for thought.
omaspen This is a really good point. I’ve been on the hunt trying to find that sweet spot between modern design but practical.
Matt preaches overhangs, especially in wet climates, pretty regularly in his videos.
That being said, the sealing products he pushes have a pretty good track record in Europe...so long as you provide a good drainage/drying space for the cladding. The secondary benefit of that gap is a thermal break from the siding, especially in hot climates. Now the sun-beaten wall acts as a shade, instead of a thermal mass permeating into the interior, that needs to be removed by the HVAC system.
I've read many studies that have attested to the fact that the smaller the overhangs, the more water infiltration the building will have. Making a building without an overhang is just asking for trouble IMO. Completely agree with your post 100%.
I appreciate this information.
EXACTLY THIS.
Matt,
Bless you for providing the specifics of the rainscreen. These are epic details. Thank you.
Thank you for your videos. Your enthusiasm, reviews, callouts and just plain builder homage makes me believe anything is possible in home building, and it doesn't have to cost a fortune. I so like this.
Ive been going over your videos for months how to deal with penetrations from exterior cladding/insulation with fluid applied membranes... and here it pops up.. thank you for finally covering this!
You are an amazing teacher Matt. I'm not a builder, just a DIY homeowner. I look forward to your videos as I always learn something from each one you post. Thank you!
Matt, you're doing a real service to the industry and to the nations by dealing with these knotty problems. This is important stuff. Thank you.
I've been in the construction field since the 70's, been a licensed contractor in California going on for four decades now, so I've seen the construction industries gone through a number of evolutionary phases.
The irony I've noticed is that even though buildings were much less efficient back in the days of cheap energy up to about the early 70's, the conventional building practices and building technology up to that point were reliable tried and true methodologies that typically were free of chronic failure issues.
It was when energy conservation became an ever increasing goal beginning in the 70's that building construction practices began being plagued with ever increasing chronic system failures. And what I've also noticed to compound the problem is a growing failure of understanding the fundamental proper practices because there's and serious lack of experience and education among new architects and contractors.
An example is a low rise condo/apartment building in a local city who had the window and door fenestrations torn out and reinstalled up to three times do to poor system design and practices caused by a lack of experience and knowledge in today's building industry.
So the long story short is your efforts in correcting these problems are very refreshing! 👍
People are worried about Walls when it's the Windows that are the problem with efficiency. A YETI would be worthless if it added even a small window to see inside.
People need to look at the Total Sensible Load, example Wall 250 BTU Vs Windows 13,000 BTU.
Give me reasonable insulation with a water tight barrier and R equivalent glass to wall .. then my house is better than yours!
Good points. I wonder how long even the best tape will last on windows and seams as on ZIP board. How long does the coating last on ZIP? I've removed siding covering Tyvek and there were bug holes in it so there goes the water proofing. There is still a lot to learn. I want LONG LIFE in my building materials!
Growing pains, for every fail tech there are tons of effecient, healthy houses being belt using these technologies.
different materials as well. OSB doesn't dry well
@@brucestewart3170
That is why Joe Lstiburek came up with the idea for his "perfect wall".
Think about how long those membranes and tapes would last if they were kept inside your house. Joe's idea is to put the water and air barrier on the sheathing and tape the seams. Then put all of the insulation on the outside of the sheathing, using a vapor permeable but water repellent insulation. That design would keep the membrane and tapes away from extreme temperatures, UV light, and insects.
Matt this was a beautiful post and exactly why I started following you many years ago. Returning to this duration, explanation, and format was greatly needed. Thank you!
Always enjoy your videos Matt. And learn a lot. I'm a DIY'er and only wish the contractors I hire occasionally would *ALL* watch your channel and others to keep up to date on the latest advances in building materials, practices and building science. Many thanks.
Thanks for sharing your building experience again Matt.
Excellent Matt - Absolutely sound information and its all very easy to understand and implement. All that is required is the correct mindset , follow through and attention to detail . . . Keep up the good work .
My favorite Build Show yet! Thanks for the illustrations. I really enjoyed seeing how Mark Larson put the flashing tape at each of the batton strip locations (for self sealing the fasteners I assume).
Your videos are invaluable, Matt. I dont know of anywhere else we can find such detailed info right at our fingertips. Awesome stuff
One of your best vids yet! Thanks Matt!
Awesome video! It's amazing how you have grown over the years. TH-cam is revolutionizing construction. I've never been so proud to be one those building the future.
Matt, this was a great follow up video. I'd love it if y ou did more of these. The current format where you show off the latest toy that excites you is great. It would be great if there was a second half to each video/follow up where you show some of the techniques for the install of that HVAC, toilet install or whatever with this level of detail would be amazing.
Love ya.
This is were we old school remodeling folks like to talk about the “breathable” space.
Science and old school craft is not so apart.
The reductive conversation about breath ability is really about new and unique construction. Remodeling uses artistic and history to make a job simpler.
Always remember, “breathing” is done by the central air system, not the walls. If power fails, you can always open a window. I trust my lungs to give me fresh air because punching holes into it seems counter productive
We always talk about the importance of a air gap to let moisture wicking away and help the drying process. And I like it.
But I keep having this vision of a double walled building with an air gap of 12-24”. This large gap could be a “conditioned” space that gets heated or cooled depending on temperature. So you have insulation on both sides of the gap and the structure on the inside never gets exposed to air temperature and moisture swings. Commercial boats are build with double layered hulls.
I wonder if such a design has ever been considered
Sort of a building in a building? Not so much structurally a double building, but maybe more like a house inside a greenhouse? A thing to look for is where things go from Cold-to-Hot, or Hot-to-Cold depending on which direction and the season . . . . where the moist warm air encounters cold dry air -- water in the warm moist air will condense. So that would need a vapor barrier -- and/or -- a way for the water to get out. Consider the gap between the Brick Veneer layer and the rest of the wall. Maybe catch some of this -- Joe L. is a bit of a Hero to Matt Risinger >>> th-cam.com/video/rkfAcWpOYAA/w-d-xo.html
That is exactly my thoughts. They used to do that for brick buildings to a lesser extent if I am not mistaken. Two walls with an air gap between them.
That's how my house is built. I have an insulated metal building with traditional framed and insulated walls and ceilings inside. About a 4-6 inch air gap on the walls
My father's house is 150 plus year old double wall solid brick home with a 1/2 inch gap between the walls. Obviously it works
This is my next home project this year: new windows, siding, and obviously waterproofing/insulation. This video encompasses all the work I need to do. Thanks! Also, you got a great shout out from Essential Craftsman on TH-cam if you didn't already know. Thanks again.
Mat this video nailed it for me, i do construction in commercial Building as a sheet metal worker, an were going to build our first home with little knowledge of home building, were building through 'Ubuild it', but being around other trades an getting to know them an watching your videos give me confidence to go through with it, this video an the last was great, keep up the great work, never miss a video from u
I am glad to find this video, here in UK they are using the old method you have described, lucky for me now that I know what happens I definitely don't want this done to my house. Your video is 3 years old, how come they are still stuck with the wrong way of doing this job is unbelievable.
All the information you provide is a gift from heaven. THANKS ALOT.
Very informative video, thanks Matt!
Super good video Matt , I'm using all your knowledge on the process of building my home in the next few months. Great work
Ed with eagle home services in Houston Tx
You mentioned a builder - Marko Larsen (sp?) and I was hoping for a link? Thanks so much for all the great info every episode!
Good info I was a custom builder is So Cal from 1977 to 2015 . I've always sold extra insulation .
I’ve become a big fan of the build show and Matt your clearly awesome. When watching I can usually keep up but sometimes your using terms I don’t know. I’ve been interested in super insulation for many years. What’s good for me as an amateur who has built 1 house and light remodels is seeing the build from a professional contractor angle causing me to up my game to build better by understanding the situation differently . In other words when you are explaining concepts remember amateurs like me are trying to take it all in. Love all your shows keep it up.
Same kind of torch I life my crac-bule' with. So good.
Matt I have been watching your channel religiously for a few years now and love your content. We are designing and building a home with metal siding and metal roofing and had hoped you would eventually cover how to effectively install insulation and water barriers in such an instalation, but haven’t come across that topic yet.
I know spray foam is generally used for insulative properties and I considered an additional layer of rockwool, but I am not sure if there should be a vapor barrier applied before the metal is applied or if there is a better solution for such an install.
I am in the hill country as well so value your building methods because they make sense and are directly related to our building conditions
Thank you and keep up the great work
Nice Bosch driver. I just got the same one. I haven't used it much, but I do like it.
Have you ever made a video about tools you've had good or bad experiences with?
Fantastic video! Maybe the best he’s ever done. He hits all seven steps of the instructional method (attention, motivation, overview, body, summary, re-motivation, closure). Every visual aid is clear, appropriate to the topic, and elevates the point he’s driving home, without adding clutter. In fact, there is an any clutter the entire presentation. He does a good job of using the face cam when what he saying is important, and using the slides when what he’s showing is important. An extremely tight presentation. This is how you do 27 minutes of all killer, no filler.
“Is an any” = isn’t any
@@jackjmaheriii, Grammar Nazi Detected !!! Jk Buddy !!
Thank you for a very informative program. Keep it up.
I feel inspired to do a better job after seeing this! Thanks
Very informative, thanks!
Love this channel. Can you speak sometime about insulating a brick home properly in a Northern climate?
Exactly ... lots of benefits. Durability one of the important ones. Also: Comfort. Health. Noise protection. Some of the constructions (especially at the beginning of the video) still look a bit complicated - keep it simple!
You probably covered this in other videos... cold bridges. Cold bridges tend to concentrate condensed water when below dewpoint of air. Over time, they can encourage mold and rot. Many of the examples you give in this video minimize or eliminate cold bridges. It is important. Likewise attention to the HVAC system is also important. Well insulated houses with minimal infiltration need ventilation and humidity control in most climate areas. For example, if you insulate you home but do not install double glazing or better, the moisture will often condense on the inside of the windows at night and on the outside during the day. It can be a large amount that damages your building.
Great video!
I really like that last quote and it gives a good perspective on more things than just building houses. Yeah, things are different and harder, and more expensive than the status quo but that’s not necessarily a knock on what’s new. Often times the status quo isn’t at the standard it should be.
Totally ghetto but on my house as we redo things in stages I have been converting the exterior walls where practical to a 'poor mans 2x6' by ripping 2x4's in half and screwing them to the studs and top/bottom plates to make a false wall extension of sorts. An R23 rockwool batt fits right into the added depth, massive improvement to the original R7 crapola that was in there.
Practical solution, albeit time consuming.
Great video, great suggestions
excellent video Matt. Tx
@MattRisinger any chance you will cover other exterior options?
I'm in west tennessee, mixed humidity 7A climate zone and I'm looking at doing ICF with a basement in heavy red clay soil.
I'm interested in exterior insulation to explore the possibility of exploiting the thermal mass of the concrete walls.
Your ICF already comes with 2” of exterior insulation. Some ICF manufacturers like Quad Block offer higher thickness for outside insulation going all the way to R59.
Your ICF home is already air and vapor proof. If you want more insulation still, you could add interior framing, wood or metal and fill that cavity with Rockwool, fiber mats or spray foam or a combo of those.
The real question is, what R-value are you shooting for in the roof?
That “exterior window jam extension” looks terrible. I would have had one custom welded up, with a slope away from the house incorporated into the bottom blade. Those corners not only look like a hack made them, but also look like the perfect channel for water to bypass your siding, rain screen, and exterior insulation.
how would you ever replace that window without demo-ing the siding... what am i missing
@@kippaboard
1) By the time it's time to replace the window, it's probably time to replace the siding
2) You can always install flangeless windows from the inside to avoid having to mess with the exterior
I'm 23 and just became a gc and I would pay just to come work with your crew for a few weeks. I love the building science.
Very large overhangs are a great deterrent for water intrusion on the exterior walls and they look good also. Jmo.
I have three foot overhangs all the way around the house I am building. It makes a big difference for keeping water off of the side of the house and well worth the effort. And I agree it looks good too.
@@TheLeaversFamily, Sounds like my kinda house !
"A" frame house, only end exterior walls
Florida Building Codes are restrictive.
@@TheLeaversFamily I've watched several videos detailing the nightmare of water damage..huge overhangs would alleviate all of them, but some builders consider them to be "too expensive". yeah, I've heard that said.
Didn't even know videos like this exist! "Building science" luv it!!!
I'm building my own home in Arizona and turn to your channel for knowledge and inspiration. The problem is, the more I watch you the more my build costs go up, lol. I'm building a house that is a combination of shipping containers and stick. Videos on my channel. My biggest concern is condensation. I learn a lot from you and appreciate the videos. Thank you
The EIFS story is interesting. I am an architect who used a fair amount of primary barrier EIFS in the late 1980’s through the mid-1990s in medium sized contemporary commercial work. In my region we some very good commercial plaster and stucco contractors who did very good work who always told us that it required good installers who knew what they were doing and everything was detailed according to manufacturer’s requirements. Our designs were relatively simple and planar. We avoided over-articulated facades and always used top-of-the-line commercial-grade silicone sealants and proper flashing. Synergy in Rhode Island provided excellent support. ALL of these installations are still up and performing well. One is almost 40 years old. Here in New England it is almost never seen in single family residential construction. EIFS had been successfully used in Europe for low-to-moderate cost construction for decades...almost always as a finish over structural clay tile substrates...never wood.
By the late 90s you saw less and less EIFS except on buildings like CVS drug stores and other miscellaneous strip mall structures. Styles changed and budgets got better.
When EIFS hit the overheated Sun Belt residential market in the early-to-mid 1990s all hell broke loose. Misapplication and poor workmanship lead to a cascade of lawsuits that utterly transformed how it was perceived.
Nice! I've seen what looks like 3 inch insulation being put on most of the public building's exteriors here in Lithuania using those metal brackets you showed for the school. Good to know the theory carries over to here as well. Not a builder, but currently looking for a new home and ideas on costs for different portions of a project.
Ferinzz most of America’s “good ideas” regarding building are in fact Europe’s good ideas from a decade before.
Love your content of new methods and pointing out what we used to do that turned out to be a bad idea. What would be the correct system on an uninsulated block home remodel - zone 2B Phoenix? Thanks.
Great video. One little thing about the foam window edging. Good product but here in rural Australia we have the peril of the cockatoo. This large parrot will chew this kind of stuff to pieces. Cause they're jerks.
Hey Matt, i've enjoyed your build videos over the years and i have a question for you. I have rebuilt the back exterior wall of my house which is facing west ( original home builder never installed any insulation in the outside walls ) so replaced the Celotex sheathing with strand board then put up a wavy rain screen over that then installed 1" R max foam board with all the seams taped. i'm ready to put up the 1/2" x 3" batten boards, my concern is the siding i want to use is the 8" LP smart siding, with the battens 16" o.c. do you think i could have wavy siding once the sun starts to beat on it, if so what would you suggest i use ? BTW i'm a subscriber that lives in colorado zone 4-5 ?
Great video !!!
Great one Matt! I have two things to say about your demo's. People demonstrate similar burn results for cellulose. and In the vapor demo, there's no apparent vapor coming through-- i do believe it vapor permeable though.
Home Inspector Here - every home inspector should be watching your videos especially new students to build their knowledge base - great work Matt!
That thermal buck product looks very good.
Matt I just love the idea of Rockwool for an exterior. I have used the Roadenhouse washers too. However, in particular with a stucco exterior, you did not mention how the foot of the Rockwool board is handled. In other words, if I take a mirror and look up the houses’s “skirt,” what will I see? Will I see exposed sheeting and Rockwool? Or will I see a weep screed that is especially designed for 2 inch Rockwool board? Does the Rockwool overlap the junction between the slab foundation and the sheeting? What about if you used Hardiplank instead? Is StuccoWrap enough of an air gap over Comfortboard when applying stucco? Do you recommend something else? Is there an R-4 Comfortboard too? (ie. 1 inch thick) Thanks for cutting edge ideas, but trying to sell them to local inspectors is sometimes tough.
Tons of info in video but these are Great questions. Installing hardie soon and wondering how they will deal with bottom trim board. I’ve seen a 4 to 6” trim board convering seam between wood wall and cement with seal tape from house wrap over the board(and rigid board sitting in it), also a thick L flashing that starts at the sheathing layer extending away from the house and (at least 4”) covering the wood to cement Seam with silicone sealing it. Also seen L flashing fastened to the rain screen furring strips. What is best ?
I really love the more detailed videos
Episode 74 of the Modern Craftsman Podcast, Nick said foam/rockwool is the insulation in a Yeti cooler and AeroBarrier is the gasket. Individually they are ok but together they will keep your ice from melting for days.
You had me at fire resistant
Thumbs up on the video but only because of the quote at the end. LOL OMG, That is so true!
Question, why use a low grade 1x4 as the rain screen, when it's something totally susceptible to rot and damage esp. when its structural to the siding/exterior? Would a durarock or hardieboard style product or a vinyl plank/board/stud work better? Also, since this rockwool gets compressed from improper install, how much sheer strength does it have? I.E. how well does it hold the weight of a heavy exterior siding like stucco, rock or traditional wood siding? I live in earth quake prone CA and have seen exterior foam mounted underneath stucco "tear" away from even minor earthquakes and small impacts(cars or small vehicles hitting side of homes; Once even from a back yard BBQ devolving into a WWF brawl and had one individual thrown into a wall that crushed and tore the foam backing away, and took a 4' section of stucco with it.). Is that why the photo from the school showed those 2 part mounting clips being used to effectively bypass the rockwool and mount straight to sheeting? Seems labor intensive. Any other options for rigidity? Ty man. love your channel.
Matt,
Few follow up questions to this video please...
1) The one sealing point that I dont recall you discussing is the bottom edge of the ROCKWOOL exterior seething boards. How do you deal with an otherwise exposed bottom edge (assume typical lap siding) so that mice and rodents dont see that as an open invitation to tunnel into it and make a house high rise? How would this sealing be different if you used the vertical rain boards behind the siding?
2) Can/should you use a product like Tyvec (or similar) over the ROCKWOOL so that any water that does get past the siding or window/door edges, drains to the bottom and not have an opportunity to be absorbed by the ROCKWOOL? Does this answer change if you use the rain drain vertical boards you talk about at the end of the video?
3) You talked about laying a 2x4 flat all the way around window/door framing to help compensate for the ROCKWOOL board thickness. Would it make sense (assuming no code issues) to only do this at the corners and maybe a small blocks along long edges between corners so that the ROCKWOOL board can be under most of the window flanges to help compensate for the otherwise wood thermal short at the flanges?
Note: One aspect you didn't touch on that might be another benefit, is that the ROCKWOOL board likely does a lot for sound canceling out outside->inside noise, although I suspect that most outside->inside noise likely comes through windows and not really the walls.
#2 don't get confused between Rockwool insulation and rockwool utilized by the agriculture industry for growing plants in. The insulation product does not absorb water as you suggest; it repels water (better than those house wrap products) as shown in the video and it allows moisture laden vapour to pass through. Can you pressure wash rockwool insulation and not have any water penetrate? Probably not, but the same is true for Tyvec and needle punched house wraps. Try placing a chunk of mineral wool insulation into a pail of water; its likely to stay floating like Styrofoam, indefinitely. A selling point is that it doesn't require protection from UV rays. Now whether your building official will let you use Rockwool insulation in lieu of a traditional housewrap will depend upon how progressive they are and the jurisdictional regulations.
You are so talented, I always learn something new from you..thanks!…
that's not talent, mr. risinger is just someone who tries to be good in his job.
Hard work, lots of experience and probably also lots of mistakes is behind this knowledge
Matt have you ever looked into exterior paint that has a thermal/fireproof coating built into it to help even more.
I have been installing Eifs for 15 years in Ontario. The EPS foam is water vapour permeable and has channels in the back side. We do not use that inferior house wrap (tyvek) in our installs. The sheathing is covered with liquid WRB which is applied with trowel and it is thick and has fibers in it. Sheathing seams and corners gets meshed. If applied right, there would be no pin hole so no water could touch the wood from exterior. It is important to slope the window sills and make sure you use very good quality caulking around openings that will last couple years. Not the crap you get from big box stores. Rockwool is also good for exterior application but it is for exterior cladding. Also much more $$$
Also that eifs house you showed at the beginning of the video has no water/air barrier. The installer did not care about vertical channels for drainage and air movement. Also there is no overhangs. It looks like caulking around the windows failed, chances are window sill moulding had negative slope towards the wall so this wall constantly got wet and did not have any chance to dry out. So it doesn't matter what you use this house would be damaged with that much water going behind the wall. (Except concrete/block walls)
Mr. Matt Risinger, your videos are great! I’m not a home builder, nor am I into the construction business of any kind. My question is: When using window bucks or any alternatives to extend your window to accommodate your exterior insulation, do they have the 5% slope to ensure proper drainage from the window sill?
any sources to do this as a retro fit to an older home? great video again.
That Nextel phone was the bomb!
Rockwool is an amazing product; however, it will absorb water in a flood situation, just had it happen this year. It sucks up water like a straw and will never dry.
If you get bored sometime can you do a cutaway of the ideal framing/insulation technique for each zone and do a video on each one?
I’m getting confused, vapor barrier(in, out, none), what type of insulation and where to use it etc etc etc.
Thanks!!!
If this is planed from the start, why not frame out the window and door openings with the next size up lumber. eg: if building 2x6 walls then frame the window/door openings with 2x8 and have them flush as usual?
With wood getting SOOO expensive, 2X8's are not viable. Might as well build with 8" concrete or cinder blocks
2x8's are cheaper then a 2×6. Lol
@@theinvisibleman2070 Where I'm at a 2x8 is cheaper by about a dollar.
@@landonlandon5533 those prices are back to normal.... for now
Hey Matt, thanks for sharing your infinite knowledge. I follow your channel, and am a decent diy-er, where can someone like me get better info on home insulation instalation, to do it right? Or in my case to fix what my home builder did incorrectly? Looking for info on where I should have a waterproof layer, and where should it be permeable. New England home, 14yrs old, 2X6 stick, fiberglass, osb, tyvek, vynil siding. Anyone? I was planning on removing the siding, and adding more insulation, but need to know what should be waterproof, and what should be permeable. thank you all in advance.
Hi, great stuff. I'm in Phoenix...Most of our building is done by under staffed production builders...i can say from experience, we never seem to have the time to look at the latest best practice. Most builders can barley keep up with existing backlog .That said, having been to a few constitution instruction meets the ext insulation practice has been discussed but we still don't even do a full ext shear in the valley so it will take some time for this to catch on here.
I had a couple questions for my own insight....How do you deal with insects and pests inside those exterior air cavities?
Also what are you doing to insulate the exposed slab?
Lastly, how do those ext walls sit on the slab? With a 3-4" wall you must be moving them all into the home instead of using an extra wide weep screed or something for the moisture to run off?
Thanks
could you look at multi layered systems, such as 2 - 2" sheets? It gets more difficult when trying to do 4" of insulation.
@@phironosurvivors2069 Generally speaking, house condensation comes from and is an issue on the inside of the house - humans breathing, climate control, materials off gassing, etc - which creates heat/moisture/vapor. If the house is sealed up tight from the outside, that vapor cannot escape and often times ends up in your wall cavities as condensation creating rot. In the example of your ice cooler as our house, imagine hot food placed inside it (simulating human activity) rather than ice and you will have plenty of condensation dripping down the inside walls because it can not escape THROUGH the walls of the cooler. This is why condensation is a larger issue in colder climates where lots of heating is going on inside the home and cold temperatures outside turn the traveling vapor back in to water inside the walls.
Hey Matt, watching the video and at the US zone map I was confused. We living here in AK would like to remind you guys we are still part of the US. hahaha
Dr Stone I was going to comment the same thing. I saw HI made it on the graph. 🤔
I would love a show on back fitting better insulation to a typical AZ home.
Hey Matt come inspect My Double Wide Trailer see if you can find anything they did right when building this place
Matt needs to do this! Stop with the million dollar homes and be a man of the people.
I can save him the trip. they didn't.
I'm pretty sure my place was built by Ray Charles
@@sams.3209 Matt is on the cutting edge of construction practices. People with the budget for million dollar homes are more willing and more able to take the risks of being so.
Matt, I think you are saying that moisture will always find a way inside the wall. From rainwater leaks to high humidity & condensation the material inside the wall must NEVER EVER hold water in the liquid state. Please consider this...The steam you demonstrated on the rock wool shows it to be a wide open path for humidity. Did you know that humidity inside insulation acts as a thermal bridge to conduct the cold from outdoors into the inner walls of the house? Insulation must be dry to get the full R-value. Without a true vapor-barrier humidity will move through a porous substance by molecular pressure (No Air Movement). It moves through concrete! What you are advocating is to allow this moisture to condense in the insulation but have enough air circulation inside the wall to evaporate the condensation before it can do damage to the wood. This humidity load can be 30% of the energy consumption if we want a controlled Rh indoors.
I think you are missing the point. Look at the perfect wall concept. There is only one point in the wall where you place your air/water/vapor barrier. Moisture on each side of the barrier needs a path to allow it to dry! (Note: There really isn't a perfect wall when trades people are allowed to use fasteners made of metal.)
On the outside rockwool provides that path to the air. Matt showed several methods to provide the air flow behind the cladding to allow drying. Drying is key given that one cannot build a perfect cladding that is water tight for ever. (As he showed in the early side.)
Insulation outboard of the air/water/vapor barrier is to reduce thermal bridging effects, increase overall thermal efficiency and if designed properly allow the wall to pass/manage water vapor in hot and cold seasons. Yes it can get wet in the summer, in the winter it provides the R value to allow the water vapor to stay a vapor inboard air/water/vapor boundary layer so it can dry i.e. not condense inside the wall. Note: That is why Matt can get away with only 2 inches where northern climates with colder winters require 4 or more inches external. We are lucky..... we don't get driving rain storms when it's sub zero outside. We call that a blizzard!
Dew point.. moving the Dew point out as far as you can
... if you have ever closed a cooler with a bit of moisture in it.. it molds.. it stinks..its nasty everything needs to breathe..
Nice info!
Wealth of knowledge. Australia is miles behind the US in insulation . And one thing that we struggle with is .
How do you secure your battens for cladding over the comfort board? with out them flopping all over the shop?
One of the photos showed long screws going through the battens and comfort board into the sheathing, and a string line to check for straightness.
i would LOVE to see you do a video going around exterior eletrical conduit (Service entry conduit) and the panel or whats done for that area, this is my wall im starting with and its ugh
20:40 nice osha approved top bracket to that pump jack poll.
I'm curious about what youd do with vinyl siding, I bend metal and do windows as a profession, however I'm in the north east, and frankly you do a great job explaining everything it just very rarely relates to my part of town, either way thank you so much for your videos, i love learning
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
Why do you need an air gap for the rock wool if it's vapor and air permeable? Wouldn't it be able to dry without the air gap?
Matt....Nextel was great (PTT, lol); but no ones eye “fashion” was great back than....🤣🤣
Thx for the vid✌🏼
Also, remember the StarTack small flip phones before the Nextel PTT phones became norm for businesses....or bag phone for car😅 So glad tech has gotten better, & the PTT still available on Sprint (as they bought Nextel) but through App only & on certain phones w/ special plan.....even kept the same “chirp” sound👍🏻
We've got tons of EIFS houses here in NJ. Every year more and more get torn apart and replaced with vinyl siding or cement siding and regular batt insulation is used in the stud bay. Not a perfect solution but at least it's water tight now.
Awesome video, can u do a video on how to do what u do. Like choosing this as career video. How to get where ur at. How to get clients ect ect
Matt, In a warm / humid climate, why wouldn't Roxul be a good choice for rim joists / exterior framing band on a sealed crawl space?
don't be put off by the fact that this is a sponsored video. this is great content.
Matt, great info. It seems to me that the best solution for the window depth build out would be to get the window manufactures on board to build in the exterior extensions to your spec during manufacturing. What do you think? Is anyone offering that?
Hey Matt,
We do things crazy inefficient here in oz so I’m trying to slowly change that here by specifying products that are as similar as possible to the products you have recommendrainscreensed. One question I have about rain screens is...Do we need a ventilation opening at the bottom of the rain screen? I ask this because with our R value calculations here a ventilated air gap is rated differently to an unventilated air gap. I like the idea of a drainage plain for the rain screen, but it appears that in winter months it can reduce my r value.
would love to see how to insulate an existing brick/ concrete house. Also when I tried to find comfort board. It was over a 100 a piece. Lot of money for compressed rock!! I love the Batts but the boards are too expensive to justify.
Rain screen or air gap furring strips' orientation
The Rain screen or air gap furring strips' orientation must be vertical to allow for unobstructed continuous water, air, and moisture flow.
If your siding needs to attach to horizontal furring strips, they must be attached as battens over the required unobstructed vertical furring strips.
Source: Hammer & Hand / Horizontal Rain Screen Furring for Vertical Siding
Thanks, quick question, do you need to plaster the uneven brick wall (plis minus 1inch) before putting insulation boards or you can just start without preparing the walls? Thanks.
I wonder how when the depth of window mounting needs to be increased, BOTH what the interior finish carpenter does, as well as how the wall board and mud is handled. Is there a video that shows some options for how to finish these on the inside? Thanks.
Those window bucks, wouldn’t you want to put that zip stretch tape over it before installing window and insulation?
There are so many facets that can change how a house us build. I really appreciate you explaining the science and showing solutions. I would think most builders have to compete on pricing to the bottom because everyone wants it cheap. Totally agree with Steve’s quote. Unless building code requires it, we will continue to see poorly build homes.
My own building project will be in cold northern Maine. I want it super insulated because it’s very cold in the winter. But considering climate change and how local weather will be affected, I might as well also consider summers with 110°F and high humidity becoming a norm.
My second goal is to build hurricane and tornado proof.
The cost can be steep. I will be building with ICF. To make it affordable, I will go down in size, 1200-1500 sqf. Monopoly style. It’s going to be another 6 months before I’ll have an architect draw up the plans. It’s exciting.
@7:39 you say "if we add cavity Insulation" and I think you meant to say "if we add external insulation"
Thanks for another great informative video, Matt!
Would you use a vapour perimiable mebrane like Tyvek wrap on the shething surface first and then apply to product like the 1 inch SilveRBoard? My options are limited at the local building supply store and thickness of external insulation because of electrical mast postioning. I own a older home with 1×6×8 shething material built in 1941 in currently removing the oldclap board siding.
So why wouldn't I use a perfectly acceptable ZIP Systems R-Sheathing (R9, 2" thick) with their fluid applied liquid flash seam and nail sealer? Add brick veneer (perhaps with a rain screen) and I'm golden. If I use insulated T-Studs (2x6 sized) as my exterior wall structure and normal cavity insulation (R19 or better) with standard sheetrock on the interior wall surface, I should have a pretty good wall section. Am I missing something?
I don’t think you are missing anything. Sounds like a perfectly good wall to me