@@lisabaginski9155 Really? Outie windows have always been a North American detail in my experience. In places where mass masonry is more common vs framing (i.e. most of Europe), innie windows are much more prevalent.
@@hailexiao2770 Not in Denmark or Northern climates. The external insulation is a must. But even old European structures have super thick walls (just no insulation)
I want to use insofast on my house like you had featured at one point. It's an old house with no house wrap currently. Insofast advertises that you don't have to use wrap since the insulation panels basically are the water barrier,don't they?. If I wanted to do the "outtie" style window like you described in your last example because I want the big sills on the interior (we plan to replace all the windows when we replace the siding). Would you recommend that I seal the 2x10 to the sheathing or to the surface of the insofast panels?
In cold climates, outie windows can lead to more condensation. The trapped air behind it acts like insulation, keeping the window cold, and the window is a condensing surface.
Another key point for the airspace behind the siding is heat ventilation. You mentioned bug screening on top and bottom, but that also allows excess heat buildup to ventilate out, especially when using a darker siding which absorbs heat. Heat being the secondary most common cause of siding failure behind water. Great video. Like the mock-ups for customers to see how things are being engineered and not just built.
GREAT VIDEO Matt. I have been looking at ways to handle windows when adding exterior insulation. Thanks for all the information you provide on new materials as well as best practice.
Unless the window is a litteral work of art I would replace anything that is single pane before i would get around to adding insulation the difference is huge.
This is such great info. The solution you are choosing for your own house is awesome. So useful to see all the options within a single video. I'm bullish on thick walls and often see insetting the window against an internal cleat. set within the rough opening. Here's where a watertight pan on the sill is so great. Especially if using stone/concrete sills. Thanks for taking the time to create the video!
hi Matt! I'm a contractor in Seattle, re-cladding an older home. We're fans of your "construction philosophy" and we've come up with a design that incorporates your principles but involves a unique combination of materials. Working outwards, we plan to have: 1) (existing) 2x6 studs; 2) (existing) 3/4" shiplap; 3) (airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap; 4) (insulation) 1.5" ComfortBoard 80; 5)(airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap; 6) 4x8 HZ10 HardiePanel (screwed through lower layers into studs); 7) Stuc-o-flex base coat (sprayed on ~1/8" thick, troweled smooth); 8) Stuc-o-flex acrylic (color-impregnated) finish coat applied (by machine) as a dash coat. Fwiw, Stuc-o-flex reassures us that the base coat should adhere perfectly to the HardiePanel. Also, all new windows have just been installed with appropriate clearances for the above layers. Just wondering if you see any problems with this design? In particular, since you emphasize appropriate air-gapping so strongly, would you be concerned that the force of the HardiePanel attachment (to the studs) would squeeze the DrainWrap so tightly that it ceased to function as an air gap and drain channel? And of course, any other concerns, or improvements? Thanks so much for all the great videos, I never miss one.
Big Mo Ok I have done a lot of window replacements. Step 1 caulk all the cracks around and in old frame exterior and interior behind trim. Step2 set new window in old frame S.L.P. Or to the reveal of existing opening caulk new window to existing frame sash stop. Step3 clad outside of old frame with metal and caulk to new window. Be SURE NOT to cover weep holes. When in doubt get a glazier to put them in not a carpenter unless you know a top shelf carpenter. Now sit back and enjoy the view you earned my friend!
Nice job showing your methods Matt! I am still just tickled pink that you are constantly spreading knowledge of building science and what I think should be "standard good building practices." My company is known in my area for efficiency and longevity." That's why we stay super busy despite being a good bit more $ per sq than joe blow down the street. Man if you saw what builders get away with here in my area, it would make you hurt. Honest to the good man upstairs! MO..... Where inspectors will pass anything. Including a deck ledger That's just nailed to the house. It's nuts. Keep informing people! I have a good bit of past, present, and even future clients watching your show to learn the difference between good and what other builders do. Lol Thanks man! Keep up the great work!
What did you end up doing? I've just started the same and I've no clue. Too many conflicting recommendations. I even made a video about it asking for ideas and help.
That's one of the most extensive explanation, demo and options that I've seen you done since I've been a subscriber and it was awesome, thanks so very much for sharing.
Wish I had seen this video 6 months ago. I installed custom windows and now 1 out of 5 is leaking. I guess those are pretty good odds but it bothers me so bad and I am chasing a leak now.... Thanks Matt I used loads of information and processes I learned from you on my full custom home.
I guess you have already thought of this but if you haven't then I would recommend you to remove that long branch that's over your roof. Sure it might not be an issue at the moment though it certainly will someday in the future and better to remove it now than risk having it break and fall on your new roof sometime in the future.
Excellent Video Matt!! Can not wait for your "chain saw" retro fit!...as well, when you do the windows on your reno house can you please do a video specifically on your window install!? Thanks ahead of time!
It's great to see the options side by side. Now I've got a bunch to think about. As a designer for projects with modest budgets I've been recommending 2x6 @ 24" framing with flash and batt walls, 2-4" closed cell foam and the balance in batt insulation. The less "stuff" there is outboard of the sheathing the less hassle (and cost) there is in construction. But the solutions in this video look manageable even on a budget.
Glad to see JW windows on your build. Twelve years ago for our remodel JW was the the only window mfg with a stain grade interior jamb/sash and metal clad exterior. The windows are performing nicely and look as good as the day of installation.
Really good video. Maybe add in some more shots from different angles as you are describing what is being done on the outside edge of the window, for instance.
Matt, as a commercial glazier, this kind of situation doesn’t have to be a pain but it gets better with a higher quality glazing solution that doesn’t use the residential nailing flange. Many small curtainwall systems make insulation integration so much easier. If I am able to build my house one day, I would love to show you what I mean. Heck, with 10 minutes of your time o could show you exactly. There are so many better glazing systems to use that are far less difficult to work with, maintain, and service. The only down side is cost. The upside is using better sealed units with better finishes and so many potential installations in today’s home designs.
As a non-professional home owner windows are so difficult to get right, I know this because the company that built my house failed so miserably back in 1978. The remodel addition in the 1990's before I owned my house is even worse. Thanks for giving me options on doing it right.
Couple of suggesstions: 1 use pressure treated lumber for the window buck or extention. Just an extra measure againt rot & insects. 2. Prime (all sides) of the lumber installed. This adds protection against water damage, and also provides a good surfance for tape to stick to (if you going with the tape option 3. I think the ZIP or other stretch tape may be a better option than the fluid applied sealer as the stretch tape can stretch a lot with out cracking. if your fluid applied cracks to to excess expansion\contraction, there is now a path for water damage.
@@clwilli My house has only about 24000 btu/hr for heating a cooling. I usually put the AC on at night when the air is cool outside and the house remains cool for the entire day. Probably around $100/mo for AC cooling. About 3200 sqft. 2x6x24oc with R23 rockwool & 2" rigid on the outside (R10). SIP R48 Roof. Nothing special with the windows, just Marvin double hung windows.
So what's the benefit of going with rockwool instead of a Ridgid foam board? Isn't it prone towards holding moisture (even if it won't get damaged, the wood on top would)? I like to have anything, that can hold onto moisture, behind my vapor barrier. You've done other methods before, have you had problems with them? My favorite method is 1-2" of rigid eps/xps/iso board then battens screwed on top to studs and when coming to windows we buck them out with a 2x to the thickness of the foam (not the battens), tape all of the foam seams and THEN we wrap with housewrap and flash as normal (battens go on top of the foam and wrap). The only difference would be we use a J flashing around the windows that receive the trim and can be modified to any siding thickness.
Nice video. Looks like you guys do quality work, which is hard to find nowadays. And as for any kind of still that extends beyond the window frame, definitely a good idea to have a slop on it.
Matt, for option 1, with the 1x4 trim, is there any issue with water pooling on the bottom of the box (exterior sill)? Would it be better to slope it? Is it only a problem with water sensitive materials like wood trim? Thanks!
Excellent video. Just what I was looking for. Redoing our north wall up here in Canada. Was planning on exterior insulation using Rockwool Comfortboard as you shown. Have been looking for ways to buck out the existing windows.
I’m having a hard time finding a way to deal with my innie windows. I’m adding insulation to my house and am having trouble finding a simple way to waterproof them without changing out the windows. This helps some but this is all new construction. Most ppl are remodeling and dealing with out of date methods and materials. More videos on stuff like that would be a lot more helpful. New construction is easy retrofitting old windows and trim is a lot harder.
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
Matt, how would you fasten the jamb extension in option 1? Would it screw through the nail fin into the framing? Or would you avoid extra penetrations and use some caulk or adhesive? Thanks!
Great video, thanks Matt!! For the two innie assemblies with the box frame, and the outie assembly, do you still need to add flashing over the top of the trim? Also, for the outie assembly, was there a reason why you added the second wrb from delta over zip beyond just demonstrating those materials? Was anything stopping you from using zip liquid flash to flash the buck direct to the zip sheathing? Thanks!
I used the vent Sa to show another WRB option. Disregard that it had zip under. Not meant to be instructional. Yes Huber Liquid Flash would work too. Very similar product to Prosoco Fast Flash.
I watch a fair number of your videos. In many of the last year or so videos you speak about the attributes of ZipSystem. It is moisture barrier in & of itself without another product. Here you choose to use Delta Vent SA in addition to Zip. Why? *Side note. I have had a 12” square of ZipSystem sheathing in a bucket of water for nearly a year with only swelling. But no softening or loss of sheathing integrity.
Please discuss more, northern vapor barrier techniques vs southern. As a northern zone 5 builder is hard to find detail for these. Also, northern slab, foundation, insulation. See you at IBS!!
Hi Matt . . . for the third option, how do you flash the top and sides of the window box casing that you place over the window? Also how do you attach it to the sheathing? LMK if you have a chance thx
Thank you Matt for the video. If you're a crazy of high performance, this information is for you. Putting you window flush with you wall/insulation or in that case exceed the wall/insulation it will increase the thermal bridging (more none insulate surface in contact with the exterior). Its better to be inside the wall/insulation and the most optimal is 1/3 inside the wall/insulation. How window placement effects thermal bridging (Ecohome, 2019) : www.ecohome.net/guides/2261/how-to-install-windows-for-the-best-performance-and-durability/
I realize this is an old post, and maybe a question for B. Hull. I live in a cold climate zone 6. It seems up here, older house’s windows are always “innie” by several inches. Was this a later adjustment because of the need for winter storm windows, or was this done historically due to wind and snow? Does having an innie of 4” affect light entry?
I would like to see how you will vent the roofing without the over hang, I have used vents under the shingle... however, I am hoping you come up with something more unique and clever that vents via the fascia.
Glad to see Wolverine is still kicking around. Very nice vid. Backer rod and backcaulk is good. Any objection to spray foaming then backcaulking? In my current opinion it's best of both worlds.
A new house near me in a new subdivision was sheathed in cdx, wrapped in tyvek and then the windows were installed with their own wrap. The brick then went up last. Done. I thought about how Matt would teach them.
Easier to use last option but have rough-ins same as blueprints and add buck to window and then seal with Prosoco products. Note, Prosoco Fast Flash gun grade is a royal pain in the butt to apply. Really messy too.
Last option makes replacing a window easier. If you use a tape over the 3 sides of the flange instead of the liquid flashing, this would make replacement even easier. Windows don't seem to last as long as we think they will.
At first I was questioning the Rock wool product on the exterior as Extruded Polystyrene or Polyisocyanurate would yield higher R-values per inch and minimize the build out of the jamb. Towards the end of the video you mention something in regards to forest fires and logic slapped me in the back of the head. On Long Island, this method would never be seen as practical however, we do R-5 polyiso boards on the exterior at times. Many contractors want to build the least legal home allowed by code. With the 2015 iecc, base code is a fairly efficient home however, I write all my projected HERS ratings to target a maximum 54 ERI. When a builder makes modifications, I still have a margin of error for them to meet code. The forth method would be highly ideal if you could create a thermal break with polyiso or extruded poly board for a 3" chase around the standard rough opening. You can then flash tape to the board and create a cap bend to flash in the rigid to the sheathing (or even wet set and coat as shown in the build out option). I'm not a fan of the window looking pressed in to the siding. It acts as a collection point that through time will deteriorate at the base corners and sheathing. All in all, your pathways are very thought out and informative. Aside from using Mineral wool as an exterior insulation (not a regional method) I have actually utilized an approximation of each variation you show. Great video. Not the typical narrator explaining what someone else does. Your experience shows through in quality of options displayed.
Better open is to just fasten some rigid foam board behind the window buck nail base. Have some lumber secures the window to the window buck much better & you still get the thermal break.
Yes, thermal buck is the way to go. My wall profile on timber frame project is 2 x 6 wall over timber frame, then OSB, 2 inches of polyiso rigid insulation, 1 x 4 strapping with cement siding exterior. Window install inside the thermal bucks went well. Subsequently window sealing was verified with blower door testing with no leakage around any of the 60 plus windows. Windows were interior trimmed with 3 1/2 inch sill / apron buildup creating nearly 12 inches of window sill ledge, which I find very attractive.
Well I don't know about it being an "age-old" question because installing rigid foam on the exterior of a house hasn't been around that long in the scope of things."back in the old days" we tacked up some 15 lb felt and nailed the clapboards right on it. The inside had some fiberglass stuffed in there LOL
Something I've always wondered, but why don't we just make the window framing out of composite wood materials, so that the sil will never rot. It not like the frame that actually goes around the window is structural, only the framing for the opening is.
I thought you did not add an exterior barrier over the green Zip board? Is the point of the green Zip board, once taped with the Zip tape, to fulfill that need?
I’m researching ideas for renovating or rebuilding a rural property and am considering installing roller shades to prevent break-ins and protect windows against storm damage. I hate the look of roller shades on the outside of a wall and would like to build them in to a thicker wall so that when they are open they can’t be seen (ie. the window is set back in the opening). I’m wondering if you have ever done an install like this or saw this when you were in Europe, specifically Switzerland where exterior roller shades are common. Looking for thoughts/ideas on such an install. Thanks in advance.
FYI: Still building my home, but I am planning to use dual roller shades in my windows. Have 2x6x24 walls with about 3.5" window buck. There is about 6" between the inside window and the interior (drywall).
Great to see several different options for trimming a flush-installed window to accommodate exterior insulation. I haven't seen any other video do this and many other videos assume the fourth option is the only way to do it, even though it's not even an option in many cases. I'm liking the third option as well, but will look into doing it with pvc. However, I'm not sure how he means to secure it since he just shows the boxes and he doesn't actually install anything. I'm guessing it is caulked inside to all 4 sides of the window and secured using stainless steel corner braces on the outside that are long enough to get passed the windows screw flange. Is flashing at the top of the window still required? If so, is it done *before* the pop-out box is installed?
There isn’t any fasteners when using the 1x4 PVC trim around the windows? I’m asking because we are considering this as an option for our home. The window have already been installed and now we are looking to redo siding and add exterior insulation.
Can someone explain the point of using Zip sheathing if you're just going to use a WRB house wrap as well? Why not just use regular OSB if you're going to house wrap the sheathing?
Exactly! Makes the use of zip confusing if you’re needing a house wrap on top of it… Why not tape it properly with zip tape and call it done. That’s going a little too far with ‘belt and suspenders’
My 70s home south face is totally rotten and I didn't know until the window guys showed me during installation (previous owner painted over the evidence). My brain is spinning with all these wonderful options. Are contractors aware of these techniques as part of training or should I use a specific service to install this?
What is the estimated increase to cost per sqft for this type of beefed up exterior installation? I’m in the process of building my own home and need all the info I can get!
More videos like this, please. I like the step by step install videos.
Yes please! I might not do it myself, but it shows what to look for from a builder
Yeah and ditto. I wanted to see what is used at the lower edge of the Comfort Board as a bug screen/ splash guard.
The last option with the outie window makes for a nice big window sill on the inside that many homeowners love.
Yes, very European.
@@lisabaginski9155 Really? Outie windows have always been a North American detail in my experience. In places where mass masonry is more common vs framing (i.e. most of Europe), innie windows are much more prevalent.
@@hailexiao2770 Not in Denmark or Northern climates. The external insulation is a must. But even old European structures have super thick walls (just no insulation)
I want to use insofast on my house like you had featured at one point. It's an old house with no house wrap currently. Insofast advertises that you don't have to use wrap since the insulation panels basically are the water barrier,don't they?. If I wanted to do the "outtie" style window like you described in your last example because I want the big sills on the interior (we plan to replace all the windows when we replace the siding). Would you recommend that I seal the 2x10 to the sheathing or to the surface of the insofast panels?
In cold climates, outie windows can lead to more condensation. The trapped air behind it acts like insulation, keeping the window cold, and the window is a condensing surface.
"Clients don't really know craftsmanship but they know cleanliness" most accurate statement about construction I've ever heard 😂
I know right?! That's dead on
Facts!
This is what I have been waiting for. The small details.
Another key point for the airspace behind the siding is heat ventilation. You mentioned bug screening on top and bottom, but that also allows excess heat buildup to ventilate out, especially when using a darker siding which absorbs heat. Heat being the secondary most common cause of siding failure behind water. Great video. Like the mock-ups for customers to see how things are being engineered and not just built.
I have been a Glazier for 25 years, and your window details are awesome. I like the fact that my trade is always evolving. Thank you for the lessons!
GREAT VIDEO Matt. I have been looking at ways to handle windows when adding exterior insulation. Thanks for all the information you provide on new materials as well as best practice.
I really wish you would do one of a historic remodel with a historic window with exterior insulation.
Unless the window is a litteral work of art I would replace anything that is single pane before i would get around to adding insulation the difference is huge.
This is such great info. The solution you are choosing for your own house is awesome. So useful to see all the options within a single video. I'm bullish on thick walls and often see insetting the window against an internal cleat. set within the rough opening. Here's where a watertight pan on the sill is so great. Especially if using stone/concrete sills. Thanks for taking the time to create the video!
hi Matt! I'm a contractor in Seattle, re-cladding an older home. We're
fans of your "construction philosophy" and we've come up with a design
that incorporates your principles but involves a unique combination of
materials. Working outwards, we plan to have: 1) (existing) 2x6 studs;
2) (existing) 3/4" shiplap; 3) (airgap/water barrier) Tyvek DrainWrap;
4) (insulation) 1.5" ComfortBoard 80; 5)(airgap/water barrier) Tyvek
DrainWrap; 6) 4x8 HZ10 HardiePanel (screwed through lower layers into
studs); 7) Stuc-o-flex base coat (sprayed on ~1/8" thick, troweled
smooth); 8) Stuc-o-flex acrylic (color-impregnated) finish coat applied
(by machine) as a dash coat.
Fwiw, Stuc-o-flex reassures us that the base coat should adhere
perfectly to the HardiePanel. Also, all new windows have just been
installed with appropriate clearances for the above layers. Just
wondering if you see any problems with this design? In particular,
since you emphasize appropriate air-gapping so strongly, would you be
concerned that the force of the HardiePanel attachment (to the studs)
would squeeze the DrainWrap so tightly that it ceased to function as an
air gap and drain channel? And of course, any other concerns, or
improvements? Thanks so much for all the great videos, I never miss one.
surprised by all the air gaps.. it is the air gaps that contain air/moisture that can then condense?
Would love to see water proofing strategies for window replacements when siding isn’t being replaced.
Big Mo Ok I have done a lot of window replacements. Step 1 caulk all the cracks around and in old frame exterior and interior behind trim. Step2 set new window in old frame S.L.P. Or to the reveal of existing opening caulk new window to existing frame sash stop. Step3 clad outside of old frame with metal and caulk to new window. Be SURE NOT to cover weep holes. When in doubt get a glazier to put them in not a carpenter unless you know a top shelf carpenter. Now sit back and enjoy the view you earned my friend!
I absolutely love this. I've always wondered how good builders make thick exterior insulation work!
Why do you think he is a good builder? He is a green, expensive builder that should be building in DC.
I'd say anyone who is as anal about building envelope would qualify as an above average builder.
Nice job showing your methods Matt! I am still just tickled pink that you are constantly spreading knowledge of building science and what I think should be "standard good building practices." My company is known in my area for efficiency and longevity." That's why we stay super busy despite being a good bit more $ per sq than joe blow down the street. Man if you saw what builders get away with here in my area, it would make you hurt. Honest to the good man upstairs! MO..... Where inspectors will pass anything. Including a deck ledger That's just nailed to the house. It's nuts.
Keep informing people! I have a good bit of past, present, and even future clients watching your show to learn the difference between good and what other builders do. Lol Thanks man! Keep up the great work!
I'd really like to strip my siding off this spring, and add some zip system and/or extra insulation. Can you show us how to bug seal that air cavity?
What did you end up doing? I've just started the same and I've no clue. Too many conflicting recommendations. I even made a video about it asking for ideas and help.
That's one of the most extensive explanation, demo and options that I've seen you done since I've been a subscriber and it was awesome, thanks so very much for sharing.
Every time I see one of your videos I want to tear my 20 year old house apart and install your Improvements.
Me to!
@@buildshow 😂
I’ve been looking for a video like this for about a year. THANKS!
Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
Really great. Thanks for the info on mfrs' materials, methods, and ideas. I would want to fly this past the Mfrs'.
“Chainsaw Retrofit,” may one of Joe’s top ten! Can’t wait to see it on the remodel series.
Thanks Mark! Coming soon
This is exactly what i needed to see for my remodel of my 1920s farm house!
Great video. Super helpful. Please continue doing these videos on various ways to do these tricky items.
Nice choices - definitely would like the full installation process for option #3.
Wish I had seen this video 6 months ago.
I installed custom windows and now 1 out of 5 is leaking. I guess those are pretty good odds but it bothers me so bad and I am chasing a leak now....
Thanks Matt I used loads of information and processes I learned from you on my full custom home.
I guess you have already thought of this but if you haven't then I would recommend you to remove that long branch that's over your roof. Sure it might not be an issue at the moment though it certainly will someday in the future and better to remove it now than risk having it break and fall on your new roof sometime in the future.
Totally agreed. It was actually scrapping the shingles! We trimmed back but probably need to remove. Thanks
Excellent Video Matt!! Can not wait for your "chain saw" retro fit!...as well, when you do the windows on your reno house can you please do a video specifically on your window install!? Thanks ahead of time!
This was awesome. Thanks Matt.
It's great to see the options side by side. Now I've got a bunch to think about. As a designer for projects with modest budgets I've been recommending 2x6 @ 24" framing with flash and batt walls, 2-4" closed cell foam and the balance in batt insulation. The less "stuff" there is outboard of the sheathing the less hassle (and cost) there is in construction. But the solutions in this video look manageable even on a budget.
Great work Matt. Many thanks.
Thank you for this video. The options you provided are helpful
I am actually running into this same problem on my house I’m building. Thanks for the ideas 👍🏻
"I just cant believe that the installation costs more than the window"... Every homeowner EVER hahahaha.
Glad to see JW windows on your build. Twelve years ago for our remodel JW was the the only window mfg with a stain grade interior jamb/sash and metal clad exterior. The windows are performing nicely and look as good as the day of installation.
What are you talking about ever hear of Pella Anderson or weathershield they go back to the beginning of clad windows. jW are crap sorry
Really good video. Maybe add in some more shots from different angles as you are describing what is being done on the outside edge of the window, for instance.
Very clean install and nicely done with the Prosoco FastFlash on option 4 for the windows.
Matt, as a commercial glazier, this kind of situation doesn’t have to be a pain but it gets better with a higher quality glazing solution that doesn’t use the residential nailing flange. Many small curtainwall systems make insulation integration so much easier. If I am able to build my house one day, I would love to show you what I mean. Heck, with 10 minutes of your time o could show you exactly. There are so many better glazing systems to use that are far less difficult to work with, maintain, and service. The only down side is cost. The upside is using better sealed units with better finishes and so many potential installations in today’s home designs.
great educational video. great content high-value material. thank you.
As a non-professional home owner windows are so difficult to get right, I know this because the company that built my house failed so miserably back in 1978. The remodel addition in the 1990's before I owned my house is even worse. Thanks for giving me options on doing it right.
Such a helpful video, thanks for sharing!
Couple of suggesstions:
1 use pressure treated lumber for the window buck or extention. Just an extra measure againt rot & insects.
2. Prime (all sides) of the lumber installed. This adds protection against water damage, and also provides a good surfance for tape to stick to (if you going with the tape option
3. I think the ZIP or other stretch tape may be a better option than the fluid applied sealer as the stretch tape can stretch a lot with out cracking. if your fluid applied cracks to to excess expansion\contraction, there is now a path for water damage.
so what are you seeing in insulation values? Electricity savings?
@@clwilli My house has only about 24000 btu/hr for heating a cooling. I usually put the AC on at night when the air is cool outside and the house remains cool for the entire day. Probably around $100/mo for AC cooling. About 3200 sqft.
2x6x24oc with R23 rockwool & 2" rigid on the outside (R10). SIP R48 Roof. Nothing special with the windows, just Marvin double hung windows.
Thank you!
Good job Matt
So what's the benefit of going with rockwool instead of a Ridgid foam board? Isn't it prone towards holding moisture (even if it won't get damaged, the wood on top would)? I like to have anything, that can hold onto moisture, behind my vapor barrier. You've done other methods before, have you had problems with them? My favorite method is 1-2" of rigid eps/xps/iso board then battens screwed on top to studs and when coming to windows we buck them out with a 2x to the thickness of the foam (not the battens), tape all of the foam seams and THEN we wrap with housewrap and flash as normal (battens go on top of the foam and wrap). The only difference would be we use a J flashing around the windows that receive the trim and can be modified to any siding thickness.
Thnx. I'm going to be adding exterior insulation to a 1920s house.
The fire resistant shot sold me..thats the one main thing home owners worry about is their homes catching fire.
Nice video. Looks like you guys do quality work, which is hard to find nowadays. And as for any kind of still that extends beyond the window frame, definitely a good idea to have a slop on it.
Great video! I will be doing a remodel on My 70s house very soon. Big remodel and landscaping expo in Charlotte this weekend!
Matt, for option 1, with the 1x4 trim, is there any issue with water pooling on the bottom of the box (exterior sill)? Would it be better to slope it? Is it only a problem with water sensitive materials like wood trim? Thanks!
thanks
great episode Matt
Option 3 is the correct answer.
#5 Option - Most window manufacturer allow to order nail fin set back. If you plan ahead, order the window for your application
Excellent video. Just what I was looking for. Redoing our north wall up here in Canada. Was planning on exterior insulation using Rockwool Comfortboard as you shown. Have been looking for ways to buck out the existing windows.
I’m having a hard time finding a way to deal with my innie windows. I’m adding insulation to my house and am having trouble finding a simple way to waterproof them without changing out the windows. This helps some but this is all new construction. Most ppl are remodeling and dealing with out of date methods and materials. More videos on stuff like that would be a lot more helpful. New construction is easy retrofitting old windows and trim is a lot harder.
I was looking for a video like this because my windows will be more shallow than my exterior wall due to the foam. I like the sheet metal idea.
Why did you use Vent SA with the Zip system?
Awesome
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
Could you please do a video on insulating garden windows and bay windows. Thanks Matt.
Matt, how would you fasten the jamb extension in option 1? Would it screw through the nail fin into the framing? Or would you avoid extra penetrations and use some caulk or adhesive? Thanks!
@buildshow
Great video, thanks Matt!! For the two innie assemblies with the box frame, and the outie assembly, do you still need to add flashing over the top of the trim?
Also, for the outie assembly, was there a reason why you added the second wrb from delta over zip beyond just demonstrating those materials? Was anything stopping you from using zip liquid flash to flash the buck direct to the zip sheathing?
Thanks!
Yes. Flash over the trim if possible.
I used the vent Sa to show another WRB option. Disregard that it had zip under. Not meant to be instructional. Yes Huber Liquid Flash would work too. Very similar product to Prosoco Fast Flash.
Please more of this type video ! details of how to do fine details
Nice good content
I want to build a shipping container house do a video on it costs pros cons. You always have great information.
I watch a fair number of your videos. In many of the last year or so videos you speak about the attributes of ZipSystem. It is moisture barrier in & of itself without another product.
Here you choose to use Delta Vent SA in addition to Zip. Why?
*Side note. I have had a 12” square of ZipSystem sheathing in a bucket of water for nearly a year with only swelling. But no softening or loss of sheathing integrity.
I was unclear on this also.
Please discuss more, northern vapor barrier techniques vs southern. As a northern zone 5 builder is hard to find detail for these. Also, northern slab, foundation, insulation. See you at IBS!!
Good stuff. I’ll work on that. See you in Vegas!
Hi Matt . . . for the third option, how do you flash the top and sides of the window box casing that you place over the window? Also how do you attach it to the sheathing? LMK if you have a chance thx
Thank you Matt for the video. If you're a crazy of high performance, this information is for you. Putting you window flush with you wall/insulation or in that case exceed the wall/insulation it will increase the thermal bridging (more none insulate surface in contact with the exterior). Its better to be inside the wall/insulation and the most optimal is 1/3 inside the wall/insulation.
How window placement effects thermal bridging (Ecohome, 2019) : www.ecohome.net/guides/2261/how-to-install-windows-for-the-best-performance-and-durability/
Awesome! I am lazy that way though and thats why i want an architect to lay all those details for me to execute.
I realize this is an old post, and maybe a question for B. Hull. I live in a cold climate zone 6. It seems up here, older house’s windows are always “innie” by several inches. Was this a later adjustment because of the need for winter storm windows, or was this done historically due to wind and snow? Does having an innie of 4” affect light entry?
How much more cost is this than what a regular construction crew would do.? From Minnesota, love the air tightness and insulation!
I would like to see how you will vent the roofing without the over hang, I have used vents under the shingle... however, I am hoping you come up with something more unique and clever that vents via the fascia.
Glad to see Wolverine is still kicking around.
Very nice vid.
Backer rod and backcaulk is good. Any objection to spray foaming then backcaulking? In my current opinion it's best of both worlds.
Once again... another great AIA learning video. Where's my CEU credit???? :D
Great video.
A new house near me in a new subdivision was sheathed in cdx, wrapped in tyvek and then the windows were installed with their own wrap. The brick then went up last. Done. I thought about how Matt would teach them.
If you built the roof overhang to come out about 2 feet you would save your walls and window area from rotting.
Easier to use last option but have rough-ins same as blueprints and add buck to window and then seal with Prosoco products. Note, Prosoco Fast Flash gun grade is a royal pain in the butt to apply. Really messy too.
How does option 1 (thin 1x4 PVC frame) attach to the house? Adhesive only? Seems simplest. My builders are not familiar with exterior insulation...
Last option makes replacing a window easier. If you use a tape over the 3 sides of the flange instead of the liquid flashing, this would make replacement even easier. Windows don't seem to last as long as we think they will.
wish you had a meet and greet in Canada!!!
At first I was questioning the Rock wool product on the exterior as Extruded Polystyrene or Polyisocyanurate would yield higher R-values per inch and minimize the build out of the jamb. Towards the end of the video you mention something in regards to forest fires and logic slapped me in the back of the head. On Long Island, this method would never be seen as practical however, we do R-5 polyiso boards on the exterior at times. Many contractors want to build the least legal home allowed by code. With the 2015 iecc, base code is a fairly efficient home however, I write all my projected HERS ratings to target a maximum 54 ERI. When a builder makes modifications, I still have a margin of error for them to meet code.
The forth method would be highly ideal if you could create a thermal break with polyiso or extruded poly board for a 3" chase around the standard rough opening. You can then flash tape to the board and create a cap bend to flash in the rigid to the sheathing (or even wet set and coat as shown in the build out option).
I'm not a fan of the window looking pressed in to the siding. It acts as a collection point that through time will deteriorate at the base corners and sheathing.
All in all, your pathways are very thought out and informative. Aside from using Mineral wool as an exterior insulation (not a regional method) I have actually utilized an approximation of each variation you show. Great video. Not the typical narrator explaining what someone else does. Your experience shows through in quality of options displayed.
what about the thermal buck that you were showcasing a while back...
That’s a good option too but it’s not readily available. In a severe cold climate I think it’s more necessary
Better open is to just fasten some rigid foam board behind the window buck nail base. Have some lumber secures the window to the window buck much better & you still get the thermal break.
What's a "thermal buck"? I haven't seen all the prerequisite vidoes. Matt, a link to a glossary would help the half-educated here.
Yes, thermal buck is the way to go. My wall profile on timber frame project is 2 x 6 wall over timber frame, then OSB, 2 inches of polyiso rigid insulation, 1 x 4 strapping with cement siding exterior. Window install inside the thermal bucks went well. Subsequently window sealing was verified with blower door testing with no leakage around any of the 60 plus windows. Windows were interior trimmed with 3 1/2 inch sill / apron buildup creating nearly 12 inches of window sill ledge, which I find very attractive.
@@wingfootedgodhead 60 Windows in one home, WOW!
Well I don't know about it being an "age-old" question because installing rigid foam on the exterior of a house hasn't been around that long in the scope of things."back in the old days" we tacked up some 15 lb felt and nailed the clapboards right on it. The inside had some fiberglass stuffed in there LOL
Something I've always wondered, but why don't we just make the window framing out of composite wood materials, so that the sil will never rot. It not like the frame that actually goes around the window is structural, only the framing for the opening is.
I thought you did not add an exterior barrier over the green Zip board? Is the point of the green Zip board, once taped with the Zip tape, to fulfill that need?
I’m researching ideas for renovating or rebuilding a rural property and am considering installing roller shades to prevent break-ins and protect windows against storm damage. I hate the look of roller shades on the outside of a wall and would like to build them in to a thicker wall so that when they are open they can’t be seen (ie. the window is set back in the opening). I’m wondering if you have ever done an install like this or saw this when you were in Europe, specifically Switzerland where exterior roller shades are common. Looking for thoughts/ideas on such an install. Thanks in advance.
Saw that all over Switzerland and Germany. Love that. Gotta work our the details but it’s doable
FYI: Still building my home, but I am planning to use dual roller shades in my windows. Have 2x6x24 walls with about 3.5" window buck. There is about 6" between the inside window and the interior (drywall).
I’m gonna do the outie method #4
Great to see several different options for trimming a flush-installed window to accommodate exterior insulation. I haven't seen any other video do this and many other videos assume the fourth option is the only way to do it, even though it's not even an option in many cases.
I'm liking the third option as well, but will look into doing it with pvc. However, I'm not sure how he means to secure it since he just shows the boxes and he doesn't actually install anything. I'm guessing it is caulked inside to all 4 sides of the window and secured using stainless steel corner braces on the outside that are long enough to get passed the windows screw flange. Is flashing at the top of the window still required? If so, is it done *before* the pop-out box is installed?
For the first option, you just friction fit the pvc picture frame over the window? Or do you fasten it to the sheathing?
There isn’t any fasteners when using the 1x4 PVC trim around the windows?
I’m asking because we are considering this as an option for our home. The window have already been installed and now we are looking to redo siding and add exterior insulation.
Where did you get such nice nail caps? Who makes them? I haven't seen anything like them before.
Can someone explain the point of using Zip sheathing if you're just going to use a WRB house wrap as well? Why not just use regular OSB if you're going to house wrap the sheathing?
Exactly!
Makes the use of zip confusing if you’re needing a house wrap on top of it…
Why not tape it properly with zip tape and call it done.
That’s going a little too far with ‘belt and suspenders’
Why is another WRB being used over the ZIP system? This seems like extra cost and time that should not be required.
Make all the windows into box-bays WHILE YOUR ARE ALREADY AT IT.
You say jamb extension, I say box-bay.
I want to put comfort board against my cinder block foundation, do I need Delta wrap? I would think not but not sure. I’m in a northern climate
My 70s home south face is totally rotten and I didn't know until the window guys showed me during installation (previous owner painted over the evidence). My brain is spinning with all these wonderful options. Are contractors aware of these techniques as part of training or should I use a specific service to install this?
What is the estimated increase to cost per sqft for this type of beefed up exterior installation? I’m in the process of building my own home and need all the info I can get!
This is what I hoped you would be doing with your remodel.
Lowe's, Menards, and Home Depot do not sell the Dorken Delta Vent SA. Where does a guy buy some?
Weakest outro yet. Are you feeling ok? Thanks for putting this together, them some great strategies right there.