I've never tried using the oil in between costs because I didn't want to have to spend as much time with removing it before the next coat. I may need to do some testing!
Ahhhh ok I misunderstood you! Yes I also buffed it out with steel wool and put on some mpro7 gun oil but didn't record it lol. Well I tried to record it but the phone had other ideas.
That turned out very nice. It's quite the bonus that your local hardware store carries House Handles, that way you can pick thru for the best one. I've ordered from them online and unfortunately have had a few lemons sent to me.
Thanks Joey! The local place is great for hammer handles also. I do wish they carried more of the patterns that house has online. But I also understand they are in so low demand they can't take up shelf space. I've had my share if lemons from them also, I try to offset they by ordering more than I need and picking the best ones. It's often still more economical than some other options.
Yeah, sometimes, after the wedge splits in half, it kinda frees both sides to move down further independently. Plus, after it's cut off, you can't really see it anyway. Thanks for the video man.
Exactly! When I'm driving the wedge I'll go super hard on it to providing I know it hasn't bottomed out yet. Some woods hold up better to that then others. Thanks for watching and commenting man!
Try some kind of chemical rust remover? Try Kroil. I have a 4# Plumb double bit on a 32 inch octagonal hickory handle from Hoffman Blacksmithing. It is a beast.
I've used vinegar before and was less than happy with the results. I still have not tried evapo-rust. My goal was to keep the character and patina that was present but darken the surrounding steel. I do have a few heads that I've gotten off ebay that appear to have been soaked in a rust remover. It does look more favorable than vinegar, I just tend to lean towards saving patina when possible. Thanks for checking out the video!
@@Nsvens89 Same here for me. I like to retain natural patina as much as possible. I try some chemical method to remove as much as possible before I use anything abrasive. Then I’ll start with fine wool pad with a little Kroil. I am careful not to go too heavy on abrasive methods because I don’t want to remove any small fine markings.
Job really well done! Nice work I like the blueing over the light rust, keeping the ageing while renewing function. Some i suppose should be shiney but is maybe over rated? Wondering how long was total process for you? I prob would have had 3 or more days in to it. Just started doing axes 2 yrs ago, still takes me forever.
Thanks I really appreciate the view and the kind words! This project went pretty quickly since the handle was already a pretty tight fit. I think it was about 4 hours total maybe in one afternoon that I knocked it out.
It's easy sharing it when it's something you enjoy and I tend to ramble. I'm just happy others are enjoy the content and finding it useful. It started going a lot quicker for me when I got some heavier raps and the shinto rasp. But a lot if it is practice and how close of a fit it is to start!
@@Nsvens89 Same story here the rasps and shinto really help, and hardware handles are usually slim enough for easy fit. Whiskey river handles are more time consuming being larger but fit most everything. Either way hoping to speed things up and sell some axes. Great to have experienced teachers on ytube like yourself to learn from.
I definitely agree! There's a time and place for grinders and polishing. I try to preserve the patina and character whenever possible though. Save the heavy grinding and polishing for fixing really damaged heads 👍
Very neat and accurate work, a pleasure to watch. 👍🌿
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed!
Appreciate the step by step it makes the video much more interesting and valuable
Thanks man! I appreciate it! I gave up the sped up parts also and like how it came out. It feels less chopped up when watching.
Very nicely done. I blend my cold blue with oil and steel wool. Using together blends really well, and gives a great finish.
I've never tried using the oil in between costs because I didn't want to have to spend as much time with removing it before the next coat. I may need to do some testing!
@Nsvens89 I do the entire process like you did except at the very end I used oil and steel wool to buff and blend.
Ahhhh ok I misunderstood you! Yes I also buffed it out with steel wool and put on some mpro7 gun oil but didn't record it lol. Well I tried to record it but the phone had other ideas.
That turned out very nice. It's quite the bonus that your local hardware store carries House Handles, that way you can pick thru for the best one. I've ordered from them online and unfortunately have had a few lemons sent to me.
Thanks Joey! The local place is great for hammer handles also. I do wish they carried more of the patterns that house has online. But I also understand they are in so low demand they can't take up shelf space. I've had my share if lemons from them also, I try to offset they by ordering more than I need and picking the best ones. It's often still more economical than some other options.
That's turned out beautiful it's nice to make them look new but I'm a huge fan of pitting and petina
Thanks man I appreciate it! I think there is a time an place for a super polished head but like you I gravitate towards some more character!
Yeah, sometimes, after the wedge splits in half, it kinda frees both sides to move down further independently. Plus, after it's cut off, you can't really see it anyway. Thanks for the video man.
Exactly! When I'm driving the wedge I'll go super hard on it to providing I know it hasn't bottomed out yet. Some woods hold up better to that then others. Thanks for watching and commenting man!
Try some kind of chemical rust remover? Try Kroil. I have a 4# Plumb double bit on a 32 inch octagonal hickory handle from Hoffman Blacksmithing. It is a beast.
I've used vinegar before and was less than happy with the results. I still have not tried evapo-rust. My goal was to keep the character and patina that was present but darken the surrounding steel. I do have a few heads that I've gotten off ebay that appear to have been soaked in a rust remover. It does look more favorable than vinegar, I just tend to lean towards saving patina when possible. Thanks for checking out the video!
@@Nsvens89 Same here for me. I like to retain natural patina as much as possible. I try some chemical method to remove as much as possible before I use anything abrasive. Then I’ll start with fine wool pad with a little Kroil. I am careful not to go too heavy on abrasive methods because I don’t want to remove any small fine markings.
Job really well done! Nice work I like the blueing over the light rust, keeping the ageing while renewing function. Some i suppose should be shiney but is maybe over rated? Wondering how long was total process for you? I prob would have had 3 or more days in to it. Just started doing axes 2 yrs ago, still takes me forever.
Thanks I really appreciate the view and the kind words! This project went pretty quickly since the handle was already a pretty tight fit. I think it was about 4 hours total maybe in one afternoon that I knocked it out.
@@Nsvens89 Nice would of thought much longer. Keep it up yr a good teacher. 👌
It's easy sharing it when it's something you enjoy and I tend to ramble. I'm just happy others are enjoy the content and finding it useful. It started going a lot quicker for me when I got some heavier raps and the shinto rasp. But a lot if it is practice and how close of a fit it is to start!
@@Nsvens89 Same story here the rasps and shinto really help, and hardware handles are usually slim enough for easy fit. Whiskey river handles are more time consuming being larger but fit most everything. Either way hoping to speed things up and sell some axes. Great to have experienced teachers on ytube like yourself to learn from.
its a sympathetic restoration. when people get out angle grinders and buff off heads to a polish i cringe so much
I definitely agree! There's a time and place for grinders and polishing. I try to preserve the patina and character whenever possible though. Save the heavy grinding and polishing for fixing really damaged heads 👍