Very helpful, better than paper instructions. My only issue is at the end with the window installing into the “balancer shoe cam”. It’s important to understand what they are for. I only saw 2 of them because the other two were sucked up and hidden behind a piece of vinyl. Once I realized there were two more for the lower window I understood better. The pivot pins must be slid into the “shoe cam” while the window is horizontal then it locks when you lift the window into place. I think. That 2 ½ inch screw thing is to suck the middle of the frame out a little so the windows have room to swing down for cleaning. It gives the vinyl room to move.
Your video gave me the confidence to try this out myself, and it went exactly like your video said it would. Saved me thousands in install costs, thank you! A couple things I’ll add: 1. The plastic squishy bag between the inner and outer jam wanted to poke out the bottom for me, I had to be careful to keep it inside. 2. I had some weird dried glue to scrape off before I could put down the caulk bead. Beauty of a video, can’t wait to do the rest of my windows. Thank you!
I'm glad the video was helpful. Yes, the plastic does slide out so you need to keep it in place during the install. Good luck with the remaining installation.
Great video. I can’t believe how easy it was to install a new window! Home Depot wanted $2000 per window installed! I paid $550 for my conversion kit and did it myself! Winning!!!
Much better video than Andersen provides! One unexpected difference I ran into - after removal of the lower left sash screws, I moved both windows all the way up but the top part lower sash was still positioned partially behind the windows. So in addition to pulling the lower sash away from the wood frame, I had to also pull down to extricate the top part from behind the windows. Other than that, everything went smoothly!😊
The removable side is always like that, for clearance to remove sashes. You have to bend the bottom to left and pull down and out. I use a hair dryer on low to warm the plastic to prevent potential cracking on a cold day. A hard learned lesson.
Thank you for putting this up! I've got a leaky rotting Andersen sinfle pane, almost 50 year old Narroline. never did any window work so I was hesitant about taking this job on. I didn't realize how easy it was. Thanks
Jay , got my windows installed thanks to your video , I brought it up on the living room TV AND PAUSED IT AT EACH STEP ! After that I did the rest on my own , piece of cake !!! Thanks Again , Carroll
Well organized, well videoed, well presented! Helped to remove the intimidation factor, and show the Anderson Replacement Windows product to be a doable DIY project for the average home owner. I looked at several DIY videos (including Anderson's), and found yours to be the best. Thanks, Jay!
Thanks Jay, your video was much more informative than the Anderson instructions manual and their videos. You made the job very easy to do. Thanks so much!
Thanks very much. The instructions at 8:20 for tucking in the outdoor-facing edge were missing from the printed instructions I received. They weren't clear about that at all. I'm glad I saw this.
Hey great video. Just got quoted $110 per window for installation. I have 16 that need to be replaced and definitely and easy install after watching your video 👍
@@JaysHelpfulVideos My only question from watching your video is does the jamb liner that goes in the wood kerfs sit on top of the exterior existing white frame or is it tucked inside
Absolutely perfect video! Thank you. Better than the official Andersen video and their printed instructions. Install was really smooth, just followed along with your video.
You did a terrific job on the video I would only add a couple of things that would be helpful to others. One the foam padding between the inner and outer Jim is there on purpose so leave it. To use a very wide blade screwdriver so you can get a good grip on the window clutch mechanism when you move it up and down. Three when you spray silicone on the jamb be careful not to spray it near the clutch mechanism because it can affect how it grips internally. Anyway thank you you did a better job than Anderson did by a long shot!
Thanks for the informative video. Much better than Andersen's! Question regarding balancers: Must I leave the balancers in place for better results? I know they are not needed for the functioning of the narrowline conversion kit, but they are new and I'd like to salvage them for another window. I'm thinking something needs to be in that balancer space above to liner to provide firm support underneath liner (??) Thanks for any direction/expertise on this! Paul Gisondo
You're right the balancers are not needed for the Narrowline windows because they are built into the new jams. You can remove the old balancers and use them on another window.
Thank you very much this was really helpful. I originally had some windows replaced but they took away so visible glass that it looked so tiny.. I found out about this conversion windows and even when I tried to order from HD they tried convince me not to buy it.. Ended up looking up the size and part number on andersens webpage go to home depot and had to fight with the windows guy to key in the part number.. finally got it after 3 weeks and it fit perfectly installed per this video and it looks great.
I did my single conversions five years ago and they went smoothly. Your video is spot on. I have two double mulled units still to do. I held back because I was not sure if the new sashes on mulled side of the joined units could be secured correctly . There is no stud to screw into on the joined (middle) side ( where you install the 2 1/2 inch screw) Andersen was not definitive if a short screw would work . Wonder if you ran into this when you did all yours?
Per their instructions "Install (1) 2-1/2" screw at the center of each side jamb to draw frame slightly outwards. Side Jamb will have outward movement" See steps 6 Prepare the frame area: edge.sitecorecloud.io/andersencorporation-c47i754m/media/Project/AndersenCorporation/AndersenWindows/AndersenWindows/files/technical-docs/accessory-guide/accessoryguide-0005060.pdf?rev=f43538312c304445bd2d0131e59e8bdf
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Yes, that works for a standard single window configuration ( both jambs adjacent to jack studs). If you have two or more singles mulled into a multi unit , the long screw would draw into and through the adjoining jamb on one side. In other word on one side you have to jambs, side by side, with 1/2 inch to 3/4/ space between.
@rzh3443 did you ever replace your double windows? I have 2 sets of them to replace and have been hesitant for the same reasons as you. An andersen rep told me it can be done. Also, I did see a youtuber doing a conversion kit install and it was indeed in the type of window you describe. I'll have to rewaych and see what he does regarding the screw in the jamb.
No, I did not. I replaced the weatherstripping and installed storm windows . Easier to keep the window glass clean. Andersen is , I believe , playing it loose in not making a video or revised instructions for this situation.
If the windows went in place and you are able to slide them up and down and tilt them in, they are working fine. If they are hard to move then I would suggest you call the company.
Great video. Excellent detail and tips/tricks. Nice job. Are you still satisfied with the conversion kit vice going with a complete insert? No issues with water intrusion?
This was quick and easy and only took about and hour to install. I put 3 in my house and I like them. The tilt in is a little difficult, (tight) but i only do that 1 or 2 times a year. A complete insert may have been difficult for me since I have stucco on the outside of my house. I ordered them from Home Depot and had them in about 3 weeks.
I'm confused about the side jamb liner screws. On my original Narroline window, I removed all six visible screws on the lower left side jamb liner and all were 1/2" long. There were no screws in the upper left jamb liner. Also, there no screws in the right side jamb liner either. The accompanying instructions that came with my window conversion kit states: "When removing jamb liner screws, if any screw is longer than 1/2", replace screw in former position after jamb liners are removed. Failure to do so may compromise structural integrity of the unit(s)." With that in mind, none of the original jamb liner screws I removed are over 1/2" in length. I believe at the 2:45 min. mark you mentioned; "they said to use screws 1/2" longer." Who is 'they' and why did you use screws longer by 1/2" (1" length)? Did you also use a larger diameter screw or did you stay with the same diameter as the screws you removed? Any idea what the diameter of the original screws you removed - #6, #8 or other? All-in-all your window installation video is much better than the Andersen Window installation video. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
Alan, great catch, I misspoke. You are correct, you should replace any screw that was removed that are a 1/2 inch or longer. I used 1 inch #6 screw. I only had 6 screws to replace on the lower left jamb.
Hey Jay. Are the new windows wood or vinyl or wood with a vinyl clad exterior. Want to get these but don’t want wood on the exterior. Thanks in advance.
Below is a link to Andersen's website with information on the Narroline Conversion kit. My windows are white factory painted wood on the inside and out. I'm not sure if there is a vinyl option. www.andersenwindows.com/support/window-door-installation/diy/narroline-sash-conversion-kit/
Loved your video on doing the conversion of the Anderson double hung windows I have a question what tips would you give for using this conversion kit on a 3 window Bay, It is impossible to put a 2 and a 1/2 inch screw into either side of the middle window
I am very interested in these foe 14 windows so I don't have to rip down my moulding etc. Did you have to be sure your windows were perfectly level, plumb, and square? I am nervous about that for me. I am not the best at precise measurements. I don't want to be stuck with 14 kits I cannot use.
The new window jambs are flexible to allow for some out of square conditions. I'm sure there is a +/- tolerance of out of level and I suggest you call Andersen before make the purchase. Good luck and let me know if you take on the project and use my video as a guide!!
Hey jay! I really enjoyed your video, but I do have a quick question. Where do you get your wire cutters and drills from, I just love the color and can’t find anything like it! Also congrats on almost 80 subscribers, I can’t wait till you get 100. Great job! And keep up the good work!
How did you know your original narrowline widows were ng? Mine look good and work fine but last year I put plastic over them and I thought it was warmer but how can you tell for sure?? Thanks for your video
Per their instructions "Install (1) 2-1/2" screw at the center of each side jamb to draw frame slightly outwards. Side Jamb will have outward movement" See steps 6 Prepare the frame area: edge.sitecorecloud.io/andersencorporation-c47i754m/media/Project/AndersenCorporation/AndersenWindows/AndersenWindows/files/technical-docs/accessory-guide/accessoryguide-0005060.pdf?rev=f43538312c304445bd2d0131e59e8bdf
Hi Jay, great video and very helpful. I am considering replacing my old narroline windows as well. Got a question when I measure my windows. I measure the glass size to determine the window size, however, I found the rough opening on the chart is larger than my current windows. Have you met this issue? How did you choose your window size?
I measured the visible window area (length and width) and gave those measurements to the team at my big box home improvement store and they worked with Andersen to order the correct replacement kit.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos thanks for the response! One last question, why do the conversion kit instead of a brand new window? I feel like if you’re going to replace the sash and jamb liners you might as well replace the sill and header too?
@@paulmoser6907 Good question. the front of my house is stucco. In order to replace the whole window I would have had to remove, replace and try to match the stucco. Plus this took about 1/2 hour to remove and replace, fast and easy.
@@paulmoser6907 That's up to you. A much bigger project to replace the whole window. I would suggest watching a video on replacement Andersen windows and decide which replacement option will work best for your situations.
You need to measure the visible glass area to order the correct kit. See their website to determine if you have Andersen' Narroline double-hung windows. The replacement kits are good for Narrowline windows made between 1968-2013. www.andersenwindows.com/support/window-door-installation/diy/narroline-sash-conversion-kit/
@@jimxwill I replaced the windows because they were over 30 years old, the seals were damaged and the windows began to sweat. This conversion kit is a full replacement without having to remove the whole window frame. The kit includes built in balances so the original balances are no longer needed.
Little late to the party, however, you unfortunately misread the directions. You are to replace ONLY the screws that were OVER 1/2" in length into their original positions as they are structural. Whereas you stated you needed to replace ALL the screws with 1/2" longer ones. As I can see clearly around my window, where the longer screws were removed, there is additional blocking to shim the unit. Those stubby screws simply hold the jam liners in place and nothing more.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Alright cool! You had me a little confused. Thanks for the video Jay. I needed it to jog my memory. It's been a while since I last did these.
If anyone needs any balance sashes ribbed with any length or color shoe let me know. I bought a truckload when they were mislabeled as Blum drawer slides. I don’t even have tilt in vinyl track windows. Have green, brown, red, blue, black, white, etc knife shoe heads and they say bmi and I have buckets of the dumb clips. eBay and Amazon are selling them to customers without any shoe or clip. Jerks
I’m not selling these. I’m giving them to you if you want them and have a way to get them to you. I’ve had them several years and almost want to scrap them
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful, better than paper instructions. My only issue is at the end with the window installing into the “balancer shoe cam”. It’s important to understand what they are for. I only saw 2 of them because the other two were sucked up and hidden behind a piece of vinyl. Once I realized there were two more for the lower window I understood better. The pivot pins must be slid into the “shoe cam” while the window is horizontal then it locks when you lift the window into place. I think. That 2 ½ inch screw thing is to suck the middle of the frame out a little so the windows have room to swing down for cleaning. It gives the vinyl room to move.
Your video gave me the confidence to try this out myself, and it went exactly like your video said it would. Saved me thousands in install costs, thank you!
A couple things I’ll add:
1. The plastic squishy bag between the inner and outer jam wanted to poke out the bottom for me, I had to be careful to keep it inside.
2. I had some weird dried glue to scrape off before I could put down the caulk bead.
Beauty of a video, can’t wait to do the rest of my windows. Thank you!
I'm glad the video was helpful. Yes, the plastic does slide out so you need to keep it in place during the install. Good luck with the remaining installation.
Great video. I can’t believe how easy it was to install a new window! Home Depot wanted $2000 per window installed! I paid $550 for my conversion kit and did it myself! Winning!!!
Awesome!! Great to hear. I hope my video helped with the installation!!
Where did you get the kit for that price?
Where did you purchase your kits? Thank you
@@RickC-sr Brookside Lumber in Bethel Park, PA.
Just did the first of 9 windows… incredibly easy and what a professional finish… can’t wait to get the other 8 done.!
That's awesome, I assume the video helped! They really do look great and easy to install!!
Much better video than Andersen provides! One unexpected difference I ran into - after removal of the lower left sash screws, I moved both windows all the way up but the top part lower sash was still positioned partially behind the windows. So in addition to pulling the lower sash away from the wood frame, I had to also pull down to extricate the top part from behind the windows. Other than that, everything went smoothly!😊
Thanks - I've had a lot of people comment that it is better then the one on their site!! Gld it worked out well for you.
Place a thin wide putty knife on the sill so it dont scratch the sill. Spoken fro a lot of experience fro an Andersen repaIrman.
The removable side is always like that, for clearance to remove sashes. You have to bend the bottom to left and pull down and out. I use a hair dryer on low to warm the plastic to prevent potential cracking on a cold day. A hard learned lesson.
Thank you for putting this up! I've got a leaky rotting Andersen sinfle pane, almost 50 year old Narroline. never did any window work so I was hesitant about taking this job on. I didn't realize how easy it was. Thanks
This is better and more complete than the "official" how-to on the Andersen Window site. Well done!
Thanks for the feedback!! I hope the install goes well for you.
Jay , got my windows installed thanks to your video , I brought it up on the living room TV AND PAUSED IT AT EACH STEP ! After that I did the rest on my own , piece of cake !!! Thanks Again , Carroll
Awesome!!
Well organized, well videoed, well presented! Helped to remove the intimidation factor, and show the Anderson Replacement Windows product to be a doable DIY project for the average home owner. I looked at several DIY videos (including Anderson's), and found yours to be the best. Thanks, Jay!
GREAT VIDEO BETTER THAN THE ANDERSON ONE DID 5 GOT THE TIME DOWN TO 15 MIN INSTALL - HARDEST PART GETTING RID OF THE OLD WINDOWS AND BOXES - THANK YOU
I agree, the windows can be installed quickly!!! Glad you liked the video!!
Thanks Jay, your video was much more informative than the Anderson instructions manual and their videos. You made the job very easy to do. Thanks so much!
Thanks Bob. I created to help you and others install the windows with ease.
Thanks very much. The instructions at 8:20 for tucking in the outdoor-facing edge were missing from the printed instructions I received. They weren't clear about that at all. I'm glad I saw this.
Glad it helped!
Hey Jay, thanks for the video. Perfect instructions! I just installed 10 yesterday, and they all went as smoothly as what you show.
That's great to hear!!! Glad it all went well.
Excellent vid! GREAT step by step explanation of install!
Glad you enjoyed it. I hope your installation goes well!
Hey great video. Just got quoted $110 per window for installation. I have 16 that need to be replaced and definitely and easy install after watching your video 👍
Glad you found it helpful and you will be able to save a load of money. Good luck!!
Great explanation, I have 2 to put in and this explained some unanswered questions in the printed directions with the windows
Awesome, I'm glad the video helped out!!
@@JaysHelpfulVideos My only question from watching your video is does the jamb liner that goes in the wood kerfs sit on top of the exterior existing white frame or is it tucked inside
@@efieldsiii It sits on top of the existing white frame. See 6:05 in the video.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Thanks again, my windows are going in tomorrow when it drops 10 degrees in temperature
@@efieldsiii You will have no problem!!! Let me know how it goes!
Great video Jay much better than Anderson Windows video
Absolutely perfect video! Thank you. Better than the official Andersen video and their printed instructions. Install was really smooth, just followed along with your video.
Great to hear!! I'm glad the video was helpful!!
You did a terrific job on the video I would only add a couple of things that would be helpful to others. One the foam padding between the inner and outer Jim is there on purpose so leave it. To use a very wide blade screwdriver so you can get a good grip on the window clutch mechanism when you move it up and down. Three when you spray silicone on the jamb be careful not to spray it near the clutch mechanism because it can affect how it grips internally. Anyway thank you you did a better job than Anderson did by a long shot!
Great tips, thanks for the comments for all to follow!!
@@JaysHelpfulVideos where is the clutch?
@@rubyred100 In the jam
2 down 8 to go. Excellent video. Thank you
Glad to hear that you have two under your belt!!! Keep going!!!
WAAAY better then the Andersen video!! Thank you.
Good luck with your windows!!!
Thanks for the great video , I'm sure I'll be referring back to it quite a few times !!
Awesome, Good luck on the install!!
Thanks for the informative video. Much better than Andersen's!
Question regarding balancers:
Must I leave the balancers in place for better results? I know they are not needed for the functioning of the narrowline conversion kit, but they are new and I'd like to salvage them for another window. I'm thinking something needs to be in that balancer space above to liner to provide firm support underneath liner (??)
Thanks for any direction/expertise on this!
Paul Gisondo
You're right the balancers are not needed for the Narrowline windows because they are built into the new jams. You can remove the old balancers and use them on another window.
Thank you very much this was really helpful. I originally had some windows replaced but they took away so visible glass that it looked so tiny.. I found out about this conversion windows and even when I tried to order from HD they tried convince me not to buy it.. Ended up looking up the size and part number on andersens webpage go to home depot and had to fight with the windows guy to key in the part number.. finally got it after 3 weeks and it fit perfectly installed per this video and it looks great.
Interesting, my HD guys was the one that suggested the narroline windows to me. I'm glad you found the video helpful!!
I did my single conversions five years ago and they went smoothly. Your video is spot on. I have two double mulled units still to do. I held back because I was not sure if the new sashes on mulled side of the joined units could be secured correctly . There is no stud to screw into on the joined (middle) side ( where you install the 2 1/2 inch screw) Andersen was not definitive if a short screw would work . Wonder if you ran into this when you did all yours?
Per their instructions "Install (1) 2-1/2" screw at the center of each side jamb to draw frame slightly outwards. Side Jamb will have outward movement" See steps 6 Prepare the frame area: edge.sitecorecloud.io/andersencorporation-c47i754m/media/Project/AndersenCorporation/AndersenWindows/AndersenWindows/files/technical-docs/accessory-guide/accessoryguide-0005060.pdf?rev=f43538312c304445bd2d0131e59e8bdf
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Yes, that works for a standard single window configuration ( both jambs adjacent to jack studs). If you have two or more singles mulled into a multi unit , the long screw would draw into and through the adjoining jamb on one side. In other word on one side you have to jambs, side by side, with 1/2 inch to 3/4/ space between.
@@rzh3443 True. The instructions do not give any guidance on side by side windows.
@rzh3443 did you ever replace your double windows? I have 2 sets of them to replace and have been hesitant for the same reasons as you. An andersen rep told me it can be done. Also, I did see a youtuber doing a conversion kit install and it was indeed in the type of window you describe. I'll have to rewaych and see what he does regarding the screw in the jamb.
No, I did not. I replaced the weatherstripping and installed storm windows . Easier to keep the window glass clean. Andersen is , I believe , playing it loose in not making a video or revised instructions for this situation.
Loved your video instructions. Installed windows but I don't seem to have the flex on the sides as much as you show. Any suggestions?
If the windows went in place and you are able to slide them up and down and tilt them in, they are working fine. If they are hard to move then I would suggest you call the company.
Great video, I use pledge it works great on the vinyl for lube
Great Tip!!
You explained this so well I now feel like I'm ready to tackle this project. Thanks for the video 📹
Great video. Excellent detail and tips/tricks. Nice job. Are you still satisfied with the conversion kit vice going with a complete insert? No issues with water intrusion?
This was quick and easy and only took about and hour to install. I put 3 in my house and I like them. The tilt in is a little difficult, (tight) but i only do that 1 or 2 times a year. A complete insert may have been difficult for me since I have stucco on the outside of my house. I ordered them from Home Depot and had them in about 3 weeks.
I'm confused about the side jamb liner screws. On my original Narroline window, I removed all six visible screws on the lower left side jamb liner and all were 1/2" long. There were no screws in the upper left jamb liner. Also, there no screws in the right side jamb liner either. The accompanying instructions that came with my window conversion kit states: "When removing jamb liner screws, if any screw is longer than 1/2", replace screw in former position after jamb liners are removed. Failure to do so may compromise structural integrity of the unit(s)." With that in mind, none of the original jamb liner screws I removed are over 1/2" in length. I believe at the 2:45 min. mark you mentioned; "they said to use screws 1/2" longer." Who is 'they' and why did you use screws longer by 1/2" (1" length)? Did you also use a larger diameter screw or did you stay with the same diameter as the screws you removed? Any idea what the diameter of the original screws you removed - #6, #8 or other? All-in-all your window installation video is much better than the Andersen Window installation video. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
Alan, great catch, I misspoke. You are correct, you should replace any screw that was removed that are a 1/2 inch or longer. I used 1 inch #6 screw. I only had 6 screws to replace on the lower left jamb.
Thank You very helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Jay. Are the new windows wood or vinyl or wood with a vinyl clad exterior. Want to get these but don’t want wood on the exterior. Thanks in advance.
Below is a link to Andersen's website with information on the Narroline Conversion kit. My windows are white factory painted wood on the inside and out. I'm not sure if there is a vinyl option.
www.andersenwindows.com/support/window-door-installation/diy/narroline-sash-conversion-kit/
How do you like these windows now that they have been in a few years? Can't decide if I should do this or have replacement windows put in.
The windows still work great, no regrets!!
I have the same old windows, can you give me info on how where to get those Anderson replacement s, thank you
I purchased mine from Home Deport. You will see other comments that people also found the best price at Home Depot
Loved your video on doing the conversion of the Anderson double hung windows I have a question what tips would you give for using this conversion kit on a 3 window Bay, It is impossible to put a 2 and a 1/2 inch screw into either side of the middle window
I don't believe this conversion kit is suitable for bay windows but I suggest to reach out to Andersen or one of their authorized dealers.
I am very interested in these foe 14 windows so I don't have to rip down my moulding etc. Did you have to be sure your windows were perfectly level, plumb, and square? I am nervous about that for me. I am not the best at precise measurements. I don't want to be stuck with 14 kits I cannot use.
The new window jambs are flexible to allow for some out of square conditions. I'm sure there is a +/- tolerance of out of level and I suggest you call Andersen before make the purchase. Good luck and let me know if you take on the project and use my video as a guide!!
Hey jay! I really enjoyed your video, but I do have a quick question. Where do you get your wire cutters and drills from, I just love the color and can’t find anything like it! Also congrats on almost 80 subscribers, I can’t wait till you get 100. Great job! And keep up the good work!
Great video. When you install the 2 1/2" screws on each side, how much deflection do you need on jamb? Or is it just to keep sides from bowing in?
No deflection, as you said it keeps the sides from bowing in.
How did you know your original narrowline widows were ng? Mine look good and work fine but last year I put plastic over them and I thought it was warmer but how can you tell for sure?? Thanks for your video
I was getting condensation build up between glass layers. Glad you like the video!
Why do you need to put a screw in the middle of the jamb like you did at 3:44?
Per their instructions "Install (1) 2-1/2" screw at the center of each side jamb to draw frame slightly outwards. Side Jamb will have outward movement" See steps 6 Prepare the frame area: edge.sitecorecloud.io/andersencorporation-c47i754m/media/Project/AndersenCorporation/AndersenWindows/AndersenWindows/files/technical-docs/accessory-guide/accessoryguide-0005060.pdf?rev=f43538312c304445bd2d0131e59e8bdf
@@JaysHelpfulVideos so what exactly is its purpose tho? I feel like if it’s flush it doesn’t do anything.
@@jacobcohen2366 I agree but the information is from their instructions.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos just trying to understand. I get it’s in the instructions but trying to learn is all.
Our windows have storm windows (we live in the northeast); can this conversion kit be used on Narrowline windows with storms?
I'm not sure, contact Andersen to have your question answered.
Will my original snap in grids fit the kit windows. Thank you
If you are asking about your screens, yes they will fit since they sit in the outer frame.
Hi Jay, great video and very helpful. I am considering replacing my old narroline windows as well. Got a question when I measure my windows. I measure the glass size to determine the window size, however, I found the rough opening on the chart is larger than my current windows. Have you met this issue? How did you choose your window size?
I measured the visible window area (length and width) and gave those measurements to the team at my big box home improvement store and they worked with Andersen to order the correct replacement kit.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Thank you, Jay!
No caulking or silicone is required? How does it stay waterproof?
Yes, there is a bead of silicone along the front edge, check out 5:10 in the video.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos thanks for the response! One last question, why do the conversion kit instead of a brand new window? I feel like if you’re going to replace the sash and jamb liners you might as well replace the sill and header too?
@@paulmoser6907 Good question. the front of my house is stucco. In order to replace the whole window I would have had to remove, replace and try to match the stucco. Plus this took about 1/2 hour to remove and replace, fast and easy.
@@JaysHelpfulVideos so if my exterior is vinyl siding, would you say it makes sense to just replace them in their entirety?
@@paulmoser6907 That's up to you. A much bigger project to replace the whole window. I would suggest watching a video on replacement Andersen windows and decide which replacement option will work best for your situations.
How did you go about getting the right size kits?
Measure the height and width of the visible glass on the upper and lower window and use that info to buy the correct replacements.
I bought my Anderson windows 30 35 yrs ago, how do I know what kit # to order?
You need to measure the visible glass area to order the correct kit. See their website to determine if you have Andersen' Narroline double-hung windows. The replacement kits are good for Narrowline windows made between 1968-2013. www.andersenwindows.com/support/window-door-installation/diy/narroline-sash-conversion-kit/
$700 per window kit.
you purrchased them from where?
thanks
Home Depot - I went to the Pro Desk
We're you able to reuse your old screens with this kit?
Yes, the outer frame remains in place where the screen sits, see 2:45 in the video.
can I use replacement windows instead?
Yes, this is an alternative to full replacement.
What if the sill is shot?
The kit does not include a the sill. You should call Andersen for support.
You just leave the old balance in there?
Yes
@@JaysHelpfulVideos I just replaced the balances in two windows for a customer today. The $400+labor for new sashes, per window, was out of her budget
@@jimxwill I replaced the windows because they were over 30 years old, the seals were damaged and the windows began to sweat. This conversion kit is a full replacement without having to remove the whole window frame. The kit includes built in balances so the original balances are no longer needed.
Show how to measure would have helped
Here you go. Measure the visible glass
th-cam.com/video/dMKDcVSnV68/w-d-xo.html
Little late to the party, however, you unfortunately misread the directions. You are to replace ONLY the screws that were OVER 1/2" in length into their original positions as they are structural. Whereas you stated you needed to replace ALL the screws with 1/2" longer ones. As I can see clearly around my window, where the longer screws were removed, there is additional blocking to shim the unit. Those stubby screws simply hold the jam liners in place and nothing more.
Yes, someone else mentioned the same thing to me. I added a caption to clarify. Thanks!!
@@JaysHelpfulVideos Alright cool! You had me a little confused. Thanks for the video Jay. I needed it to jog my memory. It's been a while since I last did these.
If anyone needs any balance sashes ribbed with any length or color shoe let me know. I bought a truckload when they were mislabeled as Blum drawer slides. I don’t even have tilt in vinyl track windows. Have green, brown, red, blue, black, white, etc knife shoe heads and they say bmi and I have buckets of the dumb clips. eBay and Amazon are selling them to customers without any shoe or clip. Jerks
I’m not selling these. I’m giving them to you if you want them and have a way to get them to you. I’ve had them several years and almost want to scrap them