Man, this video right here !!! Im getting ready for my 5.9 build. Seeing comments from 7 years ago. Such a well done how to ! This video has roots ! Thanks so much for the content.
Excellent video, I'm about to pull engine from my Grand Cherokee and was a little bit hesitant, now thanks to your video, I'm looking forward to the job! Big thumbs up from a 318 magnum owner from Czech Republic...
Thank you sir, you have one of the only videos that is in depth about this generation of the 360/318 and this makes me feel more comfortable with taking on my 318 rebuild with a idea of what to expect and how to do it.
I'm building a 5.9 Magnum right now for a classic Mopar. This video is pretty thorough! Hope you enjoyed making it as much as I enjoyed watching it! Thanks man! =]
Brilliant work mate, this was spot on. Just enough talk, just enough footage. It came together fantastic and the way you talk makes the listener tune in and focus. I had my eyes and ears glued to the screen.
Good video, only rebuilt an early LA engine years ago, with the help of my dad and brother. They are both licenced mechanics. In the late 80's had a speed shop build my 340, for my 57 D100. Had numerous issues with the rebuild from the speed shop. Intake valve stuck open. Bent push rod, collapsed lifter. Constant oil leak from the oil filter. Small dent in the filter mounting plate. Had no bottom end torque, blamed the purple shaft cam. But it was installed 5 degrees off. Now days, found a good machine shop, but do the assembly myself, with the help from my brother.
SUPERB VIDEO!!! I need to rebuild the engine in my own ram and this is about the most complete video I have seen. You should be the new host of engine power on spike...
I have a 1993 318 Magnum with 192,000 on it running fantastically.. This video is invaluable in seeing all the parts, their spacial shapes and how they work together. I know what to expect replacing a rear main seal.
AWESOME build, I built mine back in 1985.....fyi...I NEVER GROUND DOWN THE SEALING...LOL, to date its still running strong in my challenger....which is now EFI...MOPAR 4 EVER.
When you install those rubber ream mail seals, you're supposed to rotate the seal so that 3/8" or so is up on one side and down on the other side. That way the two halves of the seal (the first place pressurized oil will leak through) aren't at the parting line of the main cap.
@@brandonprettyman269they leak pretty commonly on stock setups, aftermarket kits may even suggest this tip to install instead as it is mainly used now for newer cars, for a reason
mcm95403 comments are on the money. I don't think he is trying to tear MrOffAndOn down, he is just adding good tips and best practices to help people. He isn't making degrading comments or being mean at all. Looking thru the comments and replies, I see a lot of comments by people that think that MrOffAndOn's video is so awesome, that no one should be allowed to give any sort of additional or critical comment. Don't want to own any engine that those people might put together.
Excellent video friend!! It is the most complete and informative video I have ever seen, I already subscribed to your channel. I have a Ram Van 2500 5.9 engine from 2001, your engine looks identical to the one in my truck, I have a problem that no oil reaches both heads, the crankcase is clean, there is oil pressure, but no fluid came out of the the rocker arms, so what I did was take out the oil and add diesel, turn on the engine for 2 minutes and most of the ducts have been uncovered, but one is missing on the driver's side and three on the passenger side, if I disassemble the rocker arms and clean the rods or should I also remove the elevators?
I’ve grown up around engines but I’ve never been able to fully rebuild one. I know quite a bit for being only 18, but the specifics and the little things of actually assembling an engine from the block up, I was unclear about. This video helped clear a lot of things up so thank you! Its still going to be awhile but I’m planning on building a 360 magnum destroyed with a welded and reground 318 crank (makes a 340) and I’m going to have the magnum heads redrilled to run a Weiand tunnel ram with either dual 450 holleys, or a dual 4 EFI setup. It’s all going in my daily driven 71 Dodge D100 short bed, with a built A833 with overdrive, 3.55 suregrip, no power steering. Thanks again for the video, it’s helped a TON. -Statik
This is awesome, Im about to an engine swap on my Ram 1500, and this is giving me motivation. just going to open the block and replace some parts first and then give it a go
Dude you deserve wayyy more subs! just bought a 73 Dart Swinger and your videos are going to make my v8 swap so easy. Thanks for the hard work man, keep it up!
Dart swinger for life \m/ I just snagged a '72 with an LA 360 in it, already ordered the striker kit for it. Best engine imo to daily drive reliably with great street strip power.
I concur I've got a 71 Swinger with a 360 in it. Still runs strong, saving up to do a rebuild the right way and get her up in the 400+ HP range. No idea where it's at now, don't want to dyno something that's going to get whacked but I'm guessing around 300. These motors are amazing and I can't wait to tear into mine and get going.
Just so you know I'm not hating at all! lol I just find it funny how everyone of us guys say "This is how I do it" as if we came up with that technique. But in reality You're actually doing it how everyone else does it and how you're supposed to actually do it anyways haha Over all fun video good job.
Good job Sir ! I have some tips , I reman a lot of A and B mopar engine at a chrysler dealer over 36 years , good advise is to let sit the lifters in a container fill with engine oil for a few times , and you need to check and replace the intake manifold baffle gasket. This gasket many times , have being suck into the plenum , causing oil consumption .
My only criticisms are the use of the rtv on the timing cover and water pump. The gasket is enough though not much of a problem, just will clean up easier when the parts need servicing. Then I recommend a 3 stage torque sequence for the reads, crank, and rod bolts. like the head i would have started with 25ft ib, then 75ft ib, then the final. this is just so the bolts and everything are even. Otherwise. Great video. I liked and subbed
That was a good build. I was glad to see red valve covers. Dodge use to paint the entire engine red way back in the day. I would have liked to see the truck, and also would have liked to see you drive it a bit.
I loved the video, I have a v6 3.9l I want to rebuild but there's nothing I can find until this, it was very informative and easy to understand, and I appreciate the work into the video as well as your engine
Watching this video made my job alot easier for me instead of going through the internet to find all the torque specs for this 360 engine I have learned a lot from this how you did this and that is so cool how you had it done that was awesome 👍
**** !!!! When installing timing cover...ONLY TIGHTEN BOLTS FINGER TIGHT!!!... THEN install harmonic balancer which kinda aligns cover.... and AFTER that torque down timing cover bolts... This makes sure the rotary shaft seal rides correctly on the crank snout...not tilted, producing an oil leak.... Greetz from Germany
I am always wondering, that thoses 4 Srews will hold the V8-Engine on the Enginestand. Particulary, that the crankcase can withstand that force giving to it.....
man I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9. I've never rebuilt a motor before, but I'll rewatch this video. I wish I could rebuilt a complete motor oneday
One thing you did that could come back and bite you is you used gasket maker on a paper gasket when you should have used gasket sealer on the paper gasket. I just had to tear the entire front assembly off my 318 mopar to fix a coolant leak from behind my timing cover because I did that exact same thing. Mine went several years before it developed the leak so you may be okay but the permatex high tack gasket sealer is what I would recommend on any paper gasket, if you use gasket maker you should not use any form of paper gasket because it is a "gasket maker"
Nice video - right to the point. The only thing I would do different is pre-oil the engine with a home made oil pump adapter (who knows, you can probably buy a tool for this, but I made my own years ago). Before putting in the distributor cam gear, (the oil pump is driven by a hex shaped key on the shaft), I use a longer piece of rod that has the right size hex key welded to it and put it in a drill to freely operate the oil pump and ensure oil is flowing through all the rockers, etc. before firing up the engine.
That Cam shaft is a lot easier to put in and a lot les chance of damaging the cam bearings if you will install it before the crankshaft and pistons are installed that way u can reach down inside the block and guide the cam shaft a lot more accurately minimizing chance of gouging the cam bearings with the lobes on the cam shaft
These magnums are prone to main seal leaks......sliding your balancer on before tightening the timing cover bolt aligns it so as not to put undue pressure on one side of the seal : )
Thanks for the great video. My 85 360 is in the machine shop and should be finished in about a week. I'll begin assembling as soon as I get it. Its going in my 85 ram charger which has a 318.
So just a thought. Since you already have the coolant drained, if you leave the fan off you can pull the radiator and use an impact wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the motor over and you don't risk any damage to the starter or wiring. I was taught this method as a kid and I've always found it safe and pretty easy.
Excellent video. But I have an intresting question regarding the plastic guage. Everyone uses the plastic guage and so far all the videos that I have seen they are all within specs and no one has taken the time to explain what to do if it is not to specs. This is what Im thinking and correct me if Im wrong but wouldnt it make more since to know that it is not to specs before putting it together? Thats where my initial dought come from. On what to do is it is not to specs?
Good solid assembly procedure.The two things that I would have done differently would be careful when lubing fasteners and torquing,,I believe wet and dry torque values are different. Second,,,and this is only my opinion, I would be more cautious with F.O.D. ( foreign object damage) , from dirty rags or dirty hands, but overall,,,good procedure,, especially with using the Piston ring expansion tool,,,Mopar or no car!.
Last time I saw my brothers 94 Ram 1500 4x4 5 speed. His 318 had over 335,000 miles on it. No rebuild. Still had stock compression. He replaced 2 clutches and a set of brakes. Most everything else was just maintenance and general wear and tear items. He was very easy on his vehicles and drove a lot of highway miles for work. For Jim it was not about performance so much. More durability and reliability. Its why he chose the 318. Always said Moses brought it down from the hill with him. I just got my first Ramcharger. 1983 with a 318/727/208/9.25 R/ 44 F. I cannot make up my mind from my 5 engine choices. LA 318 LA 360 5.2 Magnum 5.9 Magnum 5.7 Hemi Each has it own merits. 320 - 350 HP and 350 - 400 foot pounds torque is what I feel would be nice for a daily driven, sometimes off road truck that weighs 4,000 pounds ish. My obstacle is, I live in a smog city in AZ. So I have to have cats and pass the sniffer. Thanks California you dim light bulbs. Fucking good for nothing left wind dipshit democrats and your save the world attitudes that prevail over our freedom of choice to do what we please with what we own as long as its safe on public roads. Thanks my umbilical cord was cut when I was born and I was kicked out the house at 18. I can handle my own affairs just fine. BTW really well done video that covered the basics. Of course there are tons of ways to do the same thing but, for those who are new. You hit all the big points well enough that it won't lead anyone to failure. Cheers
Good video. You explained what you were doing very well in a short way that was easy to understand. Dont listen to some of these idiots. Keep up the good work.
I have a 81 Datsun Max wagon that was my mom and dad's but it has a diesel straight six N it. I would love to rebuild it and fix the olé car up. The motor was originally used in tractors. U did a fantastic job and I hope U get many miles out of her ! !
Good job....shouldn't you do a run in? Meaning do a high RPM to break-in? Hope it goes well. We can rebuild in our own garage....just awesome..Thank you I have faith...
I highly recommend when freshening up an engine or an actual rebuild get lubes and sealers while stuff is at machine shop. Get a tube of #105 from NAPA and bottle or 2 of GM assembly lube at a chevy dealer. The lube is flat out GOOD STUFF, but not cheap. Around $20.00 a pint. Damn well worth it. Use cam lube on the cam
ANY TIME you view the back of your engine,for trans or clutch or what have you,replace those rear plugs,just for grins,its a pain,but so is doing it in the winter
Tks for the video! But you just ended the video after the intake manifold. But the video was so good that I was expecting to see the rest of the assembly too; belts, oil filter, starter, exhaust manifold, the whole thing.
I was wondering about that. Ordered a gasket set for Dakota 5.9L 2001. About to put heads back on, was wondering if I should use rtv... (chasing an overheating problem)
How do you know your sequence in torquing down those head bolts was correct you might have been off a little bit can't just take a guess on things like that
No matter WHAT "Stage of performance" you're going for, Lose the spark-plug tubes, buy the spring-loaded timing chain tensioner from Mopar, (It's CHEAP, & WELL worth it.) use either loc-tite, or a thin steel "fold-up washer" on the camshaft bolts, & use a high-pressure T/chain gasket, either the carbon-fiber mopar, or fel-pro plastic one. "Glass-top sand" the T/C cover where it bolts to the block, by aerosol gluing a sheet of 600 grit to a large enough piece of glass, & do a small figure-8 motion till the black felt-pen marks you scribbled on the gasket surface are all gone. don't forget to check the balancer to see if it needs a repair sleeve. MSD 8.8 spiral-core wires, and a brass contact dist. cap, other than these tips, good video... & I LOVE my HUGHS victor Jr. style intake manifold. Not just for the extra power, & EASE of install, but NOW I can reach the Dist, plug wires, oil P. sensor, & crank sensor. Next project is a pair of Edelbrock aluminum heads. CAREFUL about sticking anything over an "RV" slight increased power Cam in this vehicle, or get the computer re-tuned by Hughs...HUGHS is THE place for Magnum performance.
Nice work you do there. What is the old rule of thumb for ring end gap in the cylinder? So many thousandths per inch of diameter, as I recall. Been a long time for me, and just don't remember all the details. Surprised not to see a double-row timing chain here, or has that gone by the wayside by now? Looks like yours "woiked like a champeen" and will last a long time! Ironically, the last engine I overhauled was an LA Premium 360 HP in a police car during the early '80s.
I am working on one of these, I am about to do the timing chain, with the sprocket dots at 12o’clock and 6o’clock facing each other - it appears the engine is advance to the point where the distributor rotor points to cylinder 4 of the cap - so I assume if I now rotate the assembly until the number 1 piston is tdc on compression stroke, the distributor wil line up with the terminal for #1 ?
If it wasn't for TH-cam this kind of video just wouldn't be out there, thank you for taking the time to make it.
Agg man I'm glad someone posted this. The magnum one of the most overlooked motors out there
Man, this video right here !!! Im getting ready for my 5.9 build. Seeing comments from 7 years ago. Such a well done how to ! This video has roots ! Thanks so much for the content.
Hell yeah. Just watched the whole video and I'm confident I can build my own 360. Sweet! Gonna build one from scratch and have someone else install it
Excellent video, I'm about to pull engine from my Grand Cherokee and was a little bit hesitant, now thanks to your video, I'm looking forward to the job! Big thumbs up from a 318 magnum owner from Czech Republic...
Práve dokončujem moj 318 z Jeepu ZG..... :)
@@malekdesign SPLISHY SPASHLY
Excellent editing, I really like your respect for the viewers' time.
Considering this process and found you 1st in a google search. Great job here. All the basics! Been a lifetime since I did a rebuild!
Thank you sir, you have one of the only videos that is in depth about this generation of the 360/318 and this makes me feel more comfortable with taking on my 318 rebuild with a idea of what to expect and how to do it.
You did a fantastic job. Everyone's a critic on here.
is a good job,,,for him only,,a lot of people still guessing,,,,
What's the best Dodge pick up truck for driving in the Colorado mountains
makes me feel better about building my 408 stroker myself
I'm building a 5.9 Magnum right now for a classic Mopar. This video is pretty thorough! Hope you enjoyed making it as much as I enjoyed watching it! Thanks man! =]
Brilliant work mate, this was spot on. Just enough talk, just enough footage. It came together fantastic and the way you talk makes the listener tune in and focus. I had my eyes and ears glued to the screen.
This is going to help a lot man, doing my first engine build on my 360 wish me luck!!!
Good video, only rebuilt an early LA engine years ago, with the help of my dad and brother. They are both licenced mechanics. In the late 80's had a speed shop build my 340, for my 57 D100. Had numerous issues with the rebuild from the speed shop. Intake valve stuck open. Bent push rod, collapsed lifter. Constant oil leak from the oil filter. Small dent in the filter mounting plate. Had no bottom end torque, blamed the purple shaft cam. But it was installed 5 degrees off. Now days, found a good machine shop, but do the assembly myself, with the help from my brother.
You are exactly right the purple shaft from MOPAR require a 5° offset key or it will be just like you say NO bottom end.
SUPERB VIDEO!!! I need to rebuild the engine in my own ram and this is about the most complete video I have seen. You should be the new host of engine power on spike...
I have a 1993 318 Magnum with 192,000 on it running fantastically.. This video is invaluable in seeing all the parts, their spacial shapes and how they work together. I know what to expect replacing a rear main seal.
I think most common issue on this motor is the plenum pan leak and the valve springs get a lot of slack over time.
Wow! You made me feel like I did all that work flawlessly. Thanks. I'm exhausted.
AWESOME build, I built mine back in 1985.....fyi...I NEVER GROUND DOWN THE SEALING...LOL, to date its still running strong in my challenger....which is now EFI...MOPAR 4 EVER.
I have the same engine and am considering rebuilding it. this is a very solid helpful and informational video. very good work
Very informative
When you install those rubber ream mail seals, you're supposed to rotate the seal so that 3/8" or so is up on one side and down on the other side. That way the two halves of the seal (the first place pressurized oil will leak through) aren't at the parting line of the main cap.
mcm95403 thats a good tip
No you do not have to do that from factory they line them straight up
Brandon Prettyman yeah but doing what he says leaves less chance of leaking so it is highly recommended
@@brandonprettyman269they leak pretty commonly on stock setups, aftermarket kits may even suggest this tip to install instead as it is mainly used now for newer cars, for a reason
mcm95403 comments are on the money. I don't think he is trying to tear MrOffAndOn down, he is just adding good tips and best practices to help people. He isn't making degrading comments or being mean at all. Looking thru the comments and replies, I see a lot of comments by people that think that MrOffAndOn's video is so awesome, that no one should be allowed to give any sort of additional or critical comment. Don't want to own any engine that those people might put together.
Excellent video friend!! It is the most complete and informative video I have ever seen, I already subscribed to your channel.
I have a Ram Van 2500 5.9 engine from 2001, your engine looks identical to the one in my truck, I have a problem that no oil reaches both heads, the crankcase is clean, there is oil pressure, but no fluid came out of the the rocker arms, so what I did was take out the oil and add diesel, turn on the engine for 2 minutes and most of the ducts have been uncovered, but one is missing on the driver's side and three on the passenger side, if I disassemble the rocker arms and clean the rods or should I also remove the elevators?
This video is going to be a great reference when I do my cam.
I just picked up a 98 ram 1500 ss/t 360 magnum, and this is going to help my restore alot, thanks for this video video
I’ve grown up around engines but I’ve never been able to fully rebuild one. I know quite a bit for being only 18, but the specifics and the little things of actually assembling an engine from the block up, I was unclear about. This video helped clear a lot of things up so thank you!
Its still going to be awhile but I’m planning on building a 360 magnum destroyed with a welded and reground 318 crank (makes a 340) and I’m going to have the magnum heads redrilled to run a Weiand tunnel ram with either dual 450 holleys, or a dual 4 EFI setup. It’s all going in my daily driven 71 Dodge D100 short bed, with a built A833 with overdrive, 3.55 suregrip, no power steering.
Thanks again for the video, it’s helped a TON.
-Statik
Dude!! awesome video. Inspirational. great information thanks for putting in all the work filming and posting.
Keep making these videos man, probably best one I've seen on TH-cam
No
I'm a huge fan of the technical terms used in this video, such as "Squiggly ones"
holy hd. holy definition, thank you for a video with clarity
Im about to do the same today! However, I soaked my lifters in oil for 24 hours before putting them in.
Wow man I’m over here worried about taking my cylinder head off haha. Make it look easy good job.
This is awesome, Im about to an engine swap on my Ram 1500, and this is giving me motivation. just going to open the block and replace some parts first and then give it a go
Dude you deserve wayyy more subs! just bought a 73 Dart Swinger and your videos are going to make my v8 swap so easy. Thanks for the hard work man, keep it up!
+Sage N Rage thx for the support :)
Dart swinger for life \m/ I just snagged a '72 with an LA 360 in it, already ordered the striker kit for it.
Best engine imo to daily drive reliably with great street strip power.
I concur I've got a 71 Swinger with a 360 in it. Still runs strong, saving up to do a rebuild the right way and get her up in the 400+ HP range. No idea where it's at now, don't want to dyno something that's going to get whacked but I'm guessing around 300. These motors are amazing and I can't wait to tear into mine and get going.
@@MrOffAndOnOfficial, what was the $$cost for this engine rebuild?
Just so you know I'm not hating at all! lol I just find it funny how everyone of us guys say "This is how I do it" as if we came up with that technique. But in reality You're actually doing it how everyone else does it and how you're supposed to actually do it anyways haha Over all fun video good job.
Good job Sir ! I have some tips , I reman a lot of A and B mopar engine at a chrysler dealer over 36 years , good advise is to let sit the lifters in a container fill with engine oil for a few times , and you need to check and replace the intake manifold baffle gasket. This gasket many times , have being suck into the plenum , causing oil consumption .
My only criticisms are the use of the rtv on the timing cover and water pump. The gasket is enough though not much of a problem, just will clean up easier when the parts need servicing. Then I recommend a 3 stage torque sequence for the reads, crank, and rod bolts. like the head i would have started with 25ft ib, then 75ft ib, then the final. this is just so the bolts and everything are even. Otherwise. Great video. I liked and subbed
You make look so easy - can tell that you have been doing this type of work for a while. Thank you for sharing.
That was a great video very detailed and to the point. I just bought a 99 dodge ram 5.9l would love to rebuild the engine
Ditto... thank you for making this video. Now i will be able to rebuild my 360 with confidence.
I learned a couple things, here today. Thanks for that. It's not everyday that I learn something I can use.
That was a good build. I was glad to see red valve covers. Dodge use to paint the entire engine red way back in the day. I would have liked to see the truck, and also would have liked to see you drive it a bit.
I loved the video, I have a v6 3.9l I want to rebuild but there's nothing I can find until this, it was very informative and easy to understand, and I appreciate the work into the video as well as your engine
Watching this video made my job alot easier for me instead of going through the internet to find all the torque specs for this 360 engine I have learned a lot from this how you did this and that is so cool how you had it done that was awesome 👍
**** !!!! When installing timing cover...ONLY TIGHTEN BOLTS FINGER TIGHT!!!... THEN install harmonic balancer which kinda aligns cover.... and AFTER that torque down timing cover bolts...
This makes sure the rotary shaft seal rides correctly on the crank snout...not tilted, producing an oil leak....
Greetz from Germany
Awesome video. Great work. Most videos like this are either too short with not enough content or they drag on and on. Perfect.
I am always wondering, that thoses 4 Srews will hold the V8-Engine on the Enginestand.
Particulary, that the crankcase can withstand that force giving to it.....
Damn, amazing attention to detail man. Great cautionary tricks along the whole way. You should charge good money for your services.
Wow man it’s truly amazing that you can do this job and make it look so easy I have learned a lot and hope to be able to do this job soon enough
im not building a dodge, but this was quite a helpful video, Thanks.
man I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9. I've never rebuilt a motor before, but I'll rewatch this video. I wish I could rebuilt a complete motor oneday
That 360 can really scream with $2500 in parts!
One thing you did that could come back and bite you is you used gasket maker on a paper gasket when you should have used gasket sealer on the paper gasket. I just had to tear the entire front assembly off my 318 mopar to fix a coolant leak from behind my timing cover because I did that exact same thing. Mine went several years before it developed the leak so you may be okay but the permatex high tack gasket sealer is what I would recommend on any paper gasket, if you use gasket maker you should not use any form of paper gasket because it is a "gasket maker"
Nice video - right to the point. The only thing I would do different is pre-oil the engine with a home made oil pump adapter (who knows, you can probably buy a tool for this, but I made my own years ago). Before putting in the distributor cam gear, (the oil pump is driven by a hex shaped key on the shaft), I use a longer piece of rod that has the right size hex key welded to it and put it in a drill to freely operate the oil pump and ensure oil is flowing through all the rockers, etc. before firing up the engine.
That Cam shaft is a lot easier to put in and a lot les chance of damaging the cam bearings if you will install it before the crankshaft and pistons are installed that way u can reach down inside the block and guide the cam shaft a lot more accurately minimizing chance of gouging the cam bearings with the lobes on the cam shaft
Hey man loved watching your video very inspirational... my dakota rt needs a nice rebuild like you did there. Keep on man !
These magnums are prone to main seal leaks......sliding your balancer on before tightening the timing cover bolt aligns it so as not to put undue pressure on one side of the seal : )
Thanks for the great video. My 85 360 is in the machine shop and should be finished in about a week. I'll begin assembling as soon as I get it. Its going in my 85 ram charger which has a 318.
So just a thought. Since you already have the coolant drained, if you leave the fan off you can pull the radiator and use an impact wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the motor over and you don't risk any damage to the starter or wiring. I was taught this method as a kid and I've always found it safe and pretty easy.
Excellent video. But I have an intresting question regarding the plastic guage. Everyone uses the plastic guage and so far all the videos that I have seen they are all within specs and no one has taken the time to explain what to do if it is not to specs. This is what Im thinking and correct me if Im wrong but wouldnt it make more since to know that it is not to specs before putting it together? Thats where my initial dought come from. On what to do is it is not to specs?
Good solid assembly procedure.The two things that I would have done differently would be careful when lubing fasteners and torquing,,I believe wet and dry torque values are different. Second,,,and this is only my opinion, I would be more cautious with F.O.D. ( foreign object damage) , from dirty rags or dirty hands, but overall,,,good procedure,, especially with using the Piston ring expansion tool,,,Mopar or no car!.
Truly Impressive work, great attention to detail, love your attention to lube and gaps
I admire your skill and confidence, great job.
Last time I saw my brothers 94 Ram 1500 4x4 5 speed. His 318 had over 335,000 miles on it. No rebuild. Still had stock compression. He replaced 2 clutches and a set of brakes. Most everything else was just maintenance and general wear and tear items.
He was very easy on his vehicles and drove a lot of highway miles for work. For Jim it was not about performance so much. More durability and reliability. Its why he chose the 318. Always said Moses brought it down from the hill with him.
I just got my first Ramcharger. 1983 with a 318/727/208/9.25 R/ 44 F.
I cannot make up my mind from my 5 engine choices.
LA 318
LA 360
5.2 Magnum
5.9 Magnum
5.7 Hemi
Each has it own merits. 320 - 350 HP and 350 - 400 foot pounds torque is what I feel would be nice for a daily driven, sometimes off road truck that weighs 4,000 pounds ish. My obstacle is, I live in a smog city in AZ. So I have to have cats and pass the sniffer. Thanks California you dim light bulbs. Fucking good for nothing left wind dipshit democrats and your save the world attitudes that prevail over our freedom of choice to do what we please with what we own as long as its safe on public roads. Thanks my umbilical cord was cut when I was born and I was kicked out the house at 18. I can handle my own affairs just fine.
BTW really well done video that covered the basics. Of course there are tons of ways to do the same thing but, for those who are new. You hit all the big points well enough that it won't lead anyone to failure.
Cheers
Outstanding!! Love the 360
you give a guy confidence, thanks so much!
Thank you so much for posting this and going through an explanation for each step of the process. It’s much appreciated!
great vid...simple step by step....great way to learn for a backyard mechanic
Good video. You explained what you were doing very well in a short way that was easy to understand. Dont listen to some of these idiots. Keep up the good work.
Also don't forget to put the oil slinger back in. It is there to stop excess oil from hitting the seal and then leaking.
Thanks for this video! I rebuilt a LA 360 and dropped it in my 71 Duster!!
7 years later, thanks man.
Nicely done. Now I’m feeling like a lazy bum for not getting more done on my motor this weekend. 😬
I have a 81 Datsun Max wagon that was my mom and dad's but it has a diesel straight six N it. I would love to rebuild it and fix the olé car up. The motor was originally used in tractors. U did a fantastic job and I hope U get many miles out of her ! !
Thx for watching all the videos on the rebuild. Its awesome to get feedback on them :)
Did anything leak later? I saw in another video not to use RTV on a gasket because it will leak, not bond right or something.
I love this I have the 318 Mopar on the bench also the 5.9 both R Mopars your great keep the videos coming I am enjoying them thank you very much
Good job....shouldn't you do a run in? Meaning do a high RPM to break-in? Hope it goes well. We can rebuild in our own garage....just awesome..Thank you I have faith...
I highly recommend when freshening up an engine or an actual rebuild get lubes and sealers while stuff is at machine shop. Get a tube of #105 from NAPA and bottle or 2 of GM assembly lube at a chevy dealer. The lube is flat out GOOD STUFF, but not cheap. Around $20.00 a pint. Damn well worth it. Use cam lube on the cam
I have 318 that I'm planning to rebuild
Thank u
Really good video. What piston rings did you go with? I just got done cleaning my pistons.
Bad ass and very helpful video I'm gonna rebluid one for my truck now I can use this video to guide me thru thx brotha
What a great video!!! Thank you for making it and taking the time to do such a thorough job!
ANY TIME you view the back of your engine,for trans or clutch or what have you,replace those rear plugs,just for grins,its a pain,but so is doing it in the winter
Great video. What exactly did the machine job do? Can you describe that for us newbies?
MOPAR smallblock is a overlooked engine,both for truck engines and drag racing,never seen any real problems with the Chrysler smallblock
I wish your where my neighbor, I need to do that yo my dakota ,great video thxs
Tks for the video! But you just ended the video after the intake manifold. But the video was so good that I was expecting to see the rest of the assembly too; belts, oil filter, starter, exhaust manifold, the whole thing.
Perfect Seal is your friend. RTV is for form in place gaskets, and can leak when used with gaskets.
I was wondering about that. Ordered a gasket set for Dakota 5.9L 2001. About to put heads back on, was wondering if I should use rtv... (chasing an overheating problem)
How do you know your sequence in torquing down those head bolts was correct you might have been off a little bit can't just take a guess on things like that
I normally install the camshaft before the crank because of ease and space, also not to nick the cam bearings.
Awesome video! I got a '97 5.2 318, and I've been looking for stuff on how to do a rebuild. Will definitely be referencing this.
Excellent video. You make it look simple. Well explained commentary. I hope you made some coin on this video. New subscriber.
No matter WHAT "Stage of performance" you're going for, Lose the spark-plug tubes, buy the spring-loaded timing chain tensioner from Mopar, (It's CHEAP, & WELL worth it.) use either loc-tite, or a thin steel "fold-up washer" on the camshaft bolts, & use a high-pressure T/chain gasket, either the carbon-fiber mopar, or fel-pro plastic one. "Glass-top sand" the T/C cover where it bolts to the block, by aerosol gluing a sheet of 600 grit to a large enough piece of glass, & do a small figure-8 motion till the black felt-pen marks you scribbled on the gasket surface are all gone. don't forget to check the balancer to see if it needs a repair sleeve. MSD 8.8 spiral-core wires, and a brass contact dist. cap, other than these tips, good video... & I LOVE my HUGHS victor Jr. style intake manifold. Not just for the extra power, & EASE of install, but NOW I can reach the Dist, plug wires, oil P. sensor, & crank sensor. Next project is a pair of Edelbrock aluminum heads. CAREFUL about sticking anything over an "RV" slight increased power Cam in this vehicle, or get the computer re-tuned by Hughs...HUGHS is THE place for Magnum performance.
or just carb convert it lmao.
Really informative, I have a 98 Dodge ram. Thank you.
Fantastic video! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Great video I used copper spray instead of rtv on mine
excellent video, wish this was up when i did the rebuild on my 5.9, what was the gap measurement on the feeler gauge for the piston rings?
Nice work you do there. What is the old rule of thumb for ring end gap in the cylinder? So many thousandths per inch of diameter, as I recall. Been a long time for me, and just don't remember all the details. Surprised not to see a double-row timing chain here, or has that gone by the wayside by now? Looks like yours "woiked like a champeen" and will last a long time! Ironically, the last engine I overhauled was an LA Premium 360 HP in a police car during the early '80s.
Which do you prefer when building an engine?
Bare brass freeze plugs, or painted?
I (personally) prefer bare brass.
simple but brilliant video. Thanks
I am working on one of these, I am about to do the timing chain, with the sprocket dots at 12o’clock and 6o’clock facing each other - it appears the engine is advance to the point where the distributor rotor points to cylinder 4 of the cap - so I assume if I now rotate the assembly until the number 1 piston is tdc on compression stroke, the distributor wil line up with the terminal for #1 ?
Great video! I love learning all the little details. Thanks!
I need my 5.9 rebuild what state are you in...do you take customers...i love how you work sir