At around @2:35 when you're installing the steering "link" or whatever its called, 4 small bearings you forgot to mention you have to throw in 2 small ball joint 1mm washers 👍
@Team RC 3D Prints Man I did the same when I upgraded to the alum link also! It didnt say to swap those washers from the original and when I tightened down the screws they would bind up the bearings haha I actually ran the car that way for a while before literally just the other day I realized i never put them in 😅
First mistake I found on a used buggy I bought. I ran it like that for a long time actually. Until it broke and I upgraded to aluminum, so like 3 whole days 😂
Just found your channel and Loving it, I'm interested in purchasing rc car and would like to build it myself. How difficult is it? I'm pretty tech savvy and decent with my hands.
You will need 1.5 2.0 2.5 mm hex drivers 7.0mm and 5.5mm nut wrench and long nose pliers. Thinks that’s about it. I use shock pliers but they are not essential
@@gigi9467 you will also need soldering tools. Body reamer, body scissors, tire bands, and tire glue. You might also need a tire break in tool depending on surface. Oh and an exact knife paint and servo tape. Depending on battery choice you will need 4-5 mm bullets also.
I’m watching your video while waiting for my B6.4 to arrive. Im currently at minute 26:49 and there are some o rings which are gone in the next shot. I was wandering if they are for the 4 screws in the differential, or don’t they belong to the kit? Thanks for the video, I guess I will rewatch it during the build if anything is unclear.
The four tiny o-rings are option parts to fit between the diff planet gears and their backing washer. They are supposed to add a bit of diff bind to make a gear diff behave a bit more like a ball diff. Sort of intermediate. I've tried them and they make a marginal difference. Not really worth bothering with compared to tyre choice and just using a ball diff..
know alot of people that dont got the problem of cracking front hubs if they dont crash hard in to solid objects alot and in that case the front susp arm is whats take the bashing in 99% of the time.
For telling everyone to pay attention to the details. Watching you insert all of the bearings in backyards was pure cringe. HINT: The Blue Rubber face of the bearing is supposed to go towards the outside to prevent dirt getting into the bearing race.
Came here to write the same! To further explain to anyone reading this that doesn't know... The blue ring is the dirt seal which needs to be on the outside -dirt side. Silver side is open and allows dirt in. Bearings normally come with seals on both sides, but AE remove the inner seal to reduce seal drag as there's no dirt on the inside of the gearbox or inside of a PAIR of bearings in a hub -i.e. blue seal is not needed on the inside. But if you don't know this and put the seals on the inside and the open face on the outside it's a facepalm moment -as you might as well have unsealed bearings, they'll wear out fast. Just put the blue sealed face on the outside (blue seals on dirty side).
@@TeamRC3D maybe it’s just a newbie problem I don’t know. I just want more consistent track time before it acts up. I guess if I was wealthy I wouldn’t care but I’m not 😂
@@TeamRC3D I just finished my latest diff rebuild and I think I finally got it right, time will tell. I cleaned everything with nitro cleaner this time. Got precision ground diff washers or whatever they are called and a caged thrust bearing. Used the jconcepts diff grease also. It’s the smoothest diff I’ve ever had but man it was expensive!
Like the look of that kit.
Awesome car. Raced yesterday and it was on rails.
Nice and clean job, and my X maxx is enjoying body stablizer for the bk of truck so far brill 👍💯
Thanks great news!
Nice build. Like the variety of trucks you have
We have far too many!
Great video. I am perplexed with that sway bar and your assembly in order of instruction manual would be helpful.
Its a further tuning aid - only run rear indoors on carpet
Thanks for the vid really helped
Thanks for watching
The 14mm flat head screw should go to the bottom holes of the plate..top one is for bumper..
Thanks for heads up
use locktight on the little screws that holds th piston in the shocks, they will come loose after a short time driving otherwise.
Yes for sure
Bro you hammer in the roll pin?
No?
Is it as sturdy as an Xray XB2?
Think the xray is better quality but we prefer the Associated for performance
At 42:25 it looks like you installed the left hub on the right side of the car...
Wondered who would notice that. Did it unintentionally at first but have run it like that now!
At around @2:35 when you're installing the steering "link" or whatever its called, 4 small bearings you forgot to mention you have to throw in 2 small ball joint 1mm washers 👍
Just upgraded to the alloy link and realised that!
@Team RC 3D Prints Man I did the same when I upgraded to the alum link also! It didnt say to swap those washers from the original and when I tightened down the screws they would bind up the bearings haha I actually ran the car that way for a while before literally just the other day I realized i never put them in 😅
First mistake I found on a used buggy I bought. I ran it like that for a long time actually. Until it broke and I upgraded to aluminum, so like 3 whole days 😂
What's the brand of servo horn you used?
@@chrisolsen3299 I'll take a look when I get home
What is the part number for the metal crosspins in the diff? Thanks, great video
Not sure details should be on ae site
It’s in the back of your manual. You can also find a pdf version from ae website
What motor and esc are you using?
Hobbywing, esc and 6.5t motor
Good Vídeo and Good Chanel!!! Subcrito!!!
Many thanks
@@TeamRC3D congratulation for 1000 sub
Just found your channel and Loving it, I'm interested in purchasing rc car and would like to build it myself. How difficult is it? I'm pretty tech savvy and decent with my hands.
Building is the easy part , the kits are pretty straightforward
Is an RC10b5m a good vehicle? Could it still be competitive? There is a nice used on near me, thank you for your opinions.
Old platform - may be difficult to get spares
Any way u can tell us what tools are needed to complete the build, hex sizes? Nut sizes? Pliers? Thank you
You will need 1.5 2.0 2.5 mm hex drivers 7.0mm and 5.5mm nut wrench and long nose pliers. Thinks that’s about it. I use shock pliers but they are not essential
@@TeamRC3D awesome thanx!!
@@gigi9467 you will also need soldering tools. Body reamer, body scissors, tire bands, and tire glue. You might also need a tire break in tool depending on surface. Oh and an exact knife paint and servo tape. Depending on battery choice you will need 4-5 mm bullets also.
@@gigi9467 digital calipers are helpful when doing turnbuckles along with a turnbuckle wrench
@@colestaples2010 thanks but I decided to sell a kit and buy something cheaper to get started. It was getting ridiculous. How much money it is
RC10 carbon was the best RWD rc car ever
This is the first associated we have owned, raced against them BITD
Did you have any spare screws left over? Just built a b6.4 and had a few random spare screws
Wouldn’t worry. You will have a few
I’m watching your video while waiting for my B6.4 to arrive.
Im currently at minute 26:49 and there are some o rings which are gone in the next shot. I was wandering if they are for the 4 screws in the differential, or don’t they belong to the kit?
Thanks for the video, I guess I will rewatch it during the build if anything is unclear.
We didn’t use them
The four tiny o-rings are option parts to fit between the diff planet gears and their backing washer. They are supposed to add a bit of diff bind to make a gear diff behave a bit more like a ball diff. Sort of intermediate. I've tried them and they make a marginal difference. Not really worth bothering with compared to tyre choice and just using a ball diff..
How is this vs xb2 in terms of parts quality. Weight and performance?
Both have positive. Xb2 parts are excellent but associated shocks are definitely better in our opinion. All the cars seem well under minimum weight
What motor did u put into this beauty sir?
6.5t hobbywing
Still thinking between this and xray..
Had both - we went from XRay to Associated
Mostly likely I’ll go with AE coz I like the blue ..😂 xray planet gears are plastic..
I’ll swap all the screws with SS..
Front hubs are prone to cracking but otherwise, it’s an “okay” buggy
never has issues with them
know alot of people that dont got the problem of cracking front hubs if they dont crash hard in to solid objects alot and in that case the front susp arm is whats take the bashing in 99% of the time.
@@extec101 Asphalt racing is hard on them...
For telling everyone to pay attention to the details. Watching you insert all of the bearings in backyards was pure cringe.
HINT: The Blue Rubber face of the bearing is supposed to go towards the outside to prevent dirt getting into the bearing race.
Thanks for comment
Came here to write the same! To further explain to anyone reading this that doesn't know... The blue ring is the dirt seal which needs to be on the outside -dirt side. Silver side is open and allows dirt in. Bearings normally come with seals on both sides, but AE remove the inner seal to reduce seal drag as there's no dirt on the inside of the gearbox or inside of a PAIR of bearings in a hub -i.e. blue seal is not needed on the inside. But if you don't know this and put the seals on the inside and the open face on the outside it's a facepalm moment -as you might as well have unsealed bearings, they'll wear out fast. Just put the blue sealed face on the outside (blue seals on dirty side).
russell brand? hah
It's performed well at first two events. Ball diff to try out next
I’m not real happy with my b6
Really? Why?
@@TeamRC3D problems with the differential. If I could get more run time with less parts invested I might be happy
@@TeamRC3D maybe it’s just a newbie problem I don’t know. I just want more consistent track time before it acts up. I guess if I was wealthy I wouldn’t care but I’m not 😂
@@colestaples2010 did find as standard they need rebuilding quite frequently
@@TeamRC3D I just finished my latest diff rebuild and I think I finally got it right, time will tell. I cleaned everything with nitro cleaner this time. Got precision ground diff washers or whatever they are called and a caged thrust bearing. Used the jconcepts diff grease also. It’s the smoothest diff I’ve ever had but man it was expensive!