Great set of videos, very thorough. I wish i had watched before i started this project. I was stuck trying to refit the tranny to the engine, hours of brute force did nothing. Went back and copied your technique shaking the rear and in a couple of minutes it slipped right in. Thank you.
Wow, thanks for the tip about researching clutch bracket fatigue - I was about to start down the path of hydraulics, then clutch, but I found a cracked and spreading clutch pedal bracket! You da man!
Hey! I have an 89 4runner, so everything from the chassis to the interior is identical to your truck. Ill be referring to these videos many times in the next few weeks probably so beware of any questions I may have! Thanks for making these man!
Thanks for posting the video Alex. I'm going to attempt to replace the clutch in my '82 Lux. I'm going to have to buy a few toys though, like maybe a hoist. LOL. Before watching this video, I had no idea what I was in for. Keep the Lux videos coming !
thank you for the videos , very informative, even that i have no experience. i am having my toyota 94 clutch replaced tomorrow, but i wanted to know what had to be done. thanks again.
Thanks for this video series. My clutch in my '94 just started slipping. Hopefully it'll last longer so I have warmth to work outside. Don't want to be laying in snow for this job.
thank you man! my dad is super proud of me for doing this job. couldn't have done it alone, good video
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Awesome! I've never touched a wrench and don't know half of the parts he was talking about and yet after watching this video I feel like I can do it MYSELF!!!! ;-) Thanks!
Nice video. I am dreading doing this same repair on my ‘88 22RE. Just spent a month doing the LCE exhaust between weather days in my driveway. That lift would make it a lot easier.
Watching your videos is giving me a "project buzz". I plan to clean the hell out of everything when I pull them out like this hopefully next month.. Bit cold here..
I have a brother that is a great mechanic started in 1977 at 17 years old. He is amazing, he can do anything and his hands don't even get dirty, explain that. I do the littlest thing and I've got to take a shower to get the grease off.
I'm doing a '95 t100 tomorrow if I can find a transmission jack. So far your video looks pretty close to what I'm seeing in my truck. Thanks for posting.
I've taken on the task of changing my own clutch on my 85 Toyota 2wd pickup after watching these how-to videos. This is the first time I've ever changed a clutch. Perhaps the toughest part of the job for someone like me who is working in an uneven rocky dirt driveway, with only a few hand tools, is re-mating the transmission to the engine. Yet this portion of the video is not shown in any detail. Try as I might, I could not get the transmission to fully slide tight with the engine, when trying to remount the transmission. I checked for alignment and everything looked square but it would not completely seat with the engine. So, I did something that I understand you are not suppose to do, using my bolts I inched the two surfaces together over the guide pins. I didn't use excessive force on the bolts to do this but I'm now wondering if I may have messed something up. I've not yet torqued the bolts down. Everything seemed to ease together well, without forcing anything but being new at this repair, I have to ask if I may have inadvertently made a poor choice by doing this. I have two manuals for this truck and neither was very specific about that procedure. Thank you for your reply.
Thank to your video I'm replacing the clutch of my Toyota truck (4x2 5L engine 3.0 diesel) Everything's almost indentical to your truck but the oil seal container is a little different, and it has a flywheel dust cover plastic ring, it goes between the rear end plate and the rear oil seal container, when I got it, it broken in my hand, here in Uruguay does not exist the replacement, I got to order a copy in an oil seal factory. When I get it I will assembly and will keep going withe balljoints
Its the 3.0 V6 3vze. I dropped the transmission and its at the shop right now. It was popping out of 1st gear and I think the synchros are shot. Also the rear main seal was leaking and the bell housing is coated in oil. I ordered an Aisin clutch kit from rock auto. It looks more or less the same set up you have. The R150 is a heck of a transmission.
The release/throwout bearing can be removed with a couple large sockets and a hammer. The pilot bearing can put up a fight. There are various homebrew methods to remove the pilot bearing. I used a slide hammer in Part 2. You can search TH-cam for other methods. You can probably loan a tool from Advance Auto to pull it out easily. Keep in mind I've never worked on a 98 model so it might be different. Hope everything goes well and I was able to help out.
Free play between the pedal and master cylinder must be correct before bleeding the system. That is done under the dash by adjusting the bolt between the pedal and master cylinder. You want about 1/4 inch of play at the pedal before it starts pushing in the master cylinder piston. Then try bleeding the clutch with new fluid. The hydraulic system is self adjusting but only works if there are no air bubbles in it. Also, do some research on clutch pedal bracket fatigue. It might be cracked.
I have never used a seal sleeve for the crank or anywhere else. Are you sure the leak is from the rear main? It could be oil from the rear of the head gasket, or from the rear of the valve cover. It might also be the trans input seal. Other than that, perhaps your crank has ridges worn from the original seal. Google your question for other people's opinions on seal sleeves.
Pretty soon I'll be uploading a video showing how to install new master and slave cylinders on my 4Runner. You'll be able to use the adjustment part of the video on your Pickup.
There's no spacer. I just used two gaskets. The original one stayed in place and didn't tear. I put a new one on top of that to move the seal carrier out a bit.
Good Job Alex. I am about do the same thing on my 98 4runner. I just bought the whole part fly wheel and clutch kit. I am just concern about pilot bearing and release bearing removal. what is simple tool l can use to remove both?
Just a side note, the clutch pedal throw/pre-load can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the clutch master cylinder shaft and unhooking the retaining clip and pin from the bracket that attaches the shaft to the pedal arm, then threading the bracket back/forth until you feel comfortable where the pedal engages and you are certain it fully disengages the clutch. I would recommend anyone who does a clutch swap in these trucks check that, as most original owners\dealership mechanics would have adjusted the rod as the clutch wore over time. Mine is at it's absolute limit right now because it hasn't been replaced in so long. That may be the cause of the pressure plate forks being worn so unevenly or bending over time due to the throw out bearing putting pressure on it constantly.
That is incorrect. The clutch hydraulics are self adjusting. The purpose of adjusting the pushrod is the set the initial free play in the pedal. This should be adjusted so there is about 1/4" of movement at the pedal before it starts to depress the piston in the clutch master cylinder. Adjusting it any other way will cause premature wear of the clutch and throwout bearing. Once this is set it should never need to be readjusted. The only reason it would come out of adjustment would be a cracked pedal bracket which is somewhat common on these trucks. The fix in that case is to repair/replace the pedal bracket and readjust the pushrod free play. Do not adjust the pushrod free play as a band-aid for more serious problems.
Ever had a slave cylinder get stuck half way through it's throw? That's what was wrong with mine. Not noticeable in the pedal because of the rebound spring, but that's why it wouldn't move in gear. Sometimes it's the weirdest things.
I think about 4 hours total. Keep in mind it takes a day or two for the machine shop to grind the flywheel so set aside some time for that. An experienced person, with the right tools, and no hold ups could probably do it in 2 hours.
Never used the speedy seal. I've heard of them, never heard any horror stories so I guess they're alright, but once again, no firsthand experience. I didn't see a need in my case, and definitely didn't want to wait for one to come in.
it's also a good idea to clean off the inside of the transmission as well as the outer surface with degreaser or brake cleaner before mounting it back onto the vehicle.
It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to get the inside of the bell-housing looking nice, but there is absolutely no benefit either. It has no affect on longevity or how the vehicle drives. I just wanted to have the truck on the road again.
Thanks for this video man, way better than the haynes manual! How did the rear main seal replacement work out? Did you get any leaks using the method you showed? I'm getting ready to do mine, first time ever, and was looking for some pointers. I've also heard tell of something called a speedy seal, have you ever used one?
You should drop the transmission and figure it out as soon as possible. If the bearing is totally seized up it will rapidly damage the pressure plate. Even if everything is fine, you might as well replace the clutch too because it's a lot of work to get to and you wouldn't want to be doing it again soon.
Thanks for the video wish you were near me. Looking at a 87 with a loose clutch needs to be replaced video is amazing but looking like it's going to be a pain in the rear. Only giving $250 for truck is what he is asking. What's a link for the clutch and all I need to replace it? Thank you sir.
Alex, I have a 1990 Toyota pickup, V6, 2 wheel drive, Extra Cab, 5 speed with 275k miles on the original clutch. The clutch still seems to be fine, but the friction point is nearing the floor and I want to adjust it out a bit more. Q: Where/How is the clutch adjusted on this pickup? Also, thanks for all your vids and great info.
This is the second toyota truck video that I've seen where the ultimate culprit was the pressure plate, not the clutch. I'm fairly sure that is what is wrong with mine, and I'm guessing that is also the same for a majority of cases with this truck.
I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup 4X4, It's getting harder to put the truck into gear. Can hardly get into reverse, it grinds really bad. I replaced the Slave cylinder and Slave Master, still..not shifting good.
Very helpful vids man! Im about to do the same thing. I just have one quick question..where did you get that rear main seal spacer?..or what is it called so i can grab one from the part store. cheers!
Alex, Lots of good stuff here but one ? My Dolphin motor home on a Toyota frame has the cross bar at the end of the tranny welded in place, no bolts other than on the rear tranny mount. Will the tranny come out or do I have to pull the engine and tranny out together? Two wheel drive so that helps a bit and 4 cylinder. Looks like it may go back 6 inches but is that enough to r&r the clutch?
Is this a G52 gearbox? I'm currently working on a 1986 Bundera Landcruiser and we installed a brand new clutch, throw out, ect. Everything new basically. Now at idle everything is fine. When depressing the clutch and releasing the clutch everything is fine. But when in gear and taking off there is a loud squeal as if metal on metal. It doesn't increase or decrease with revs. Any ideas?
This is a W56 transmission. Just some general suggestions for yours. Since it's not RPM related, check the driveshafts and differential and transmission flange dust shields. Check any skid plates. Check them for any bent metal or rubbing.
The first time I think it took me two days a few hours each day. If you get the flywheel resurfaced you'll have to wait for that. New flywheels are comparable in cost to refinishing your original. I've done it a couple times on different Toyotas and now I can do it in an afternoon. Maybe four hours.
@@TheAlexManVideos Thank you for your reply, I think me and my son are going to make an attempt at this. I will buy a new Flywheel. We have done so much other stuff to my truck, I think this will be a project for us. Thanks Again.
Just realized I already asked you about the seal on a previous video. Answer: no leaks. Sorry about the brain fart, but have you ever used a speedy seal?
Suggest you mark the drive shaft with the universal joint holes. Drive shafts are balanced and have to go on the same holes they came off of or the universal joint will fail.
+Mike Dunn I have never heard of a driveshaft shop asking you to take the yoke off your trans or differential to balance them and the shaft as a unit, therefore, the orientation of the shaft and yokes doesn't matter at all.
what matters is the "ears" that the cross-joint pushes into being in time to each other. Usually only a problem if you split the drive shafts where their splines interlock.
You just made that look way easier than I thought it could be! Thank you so much! No more mechanic for a new clutch.
Used all three of the videos to get the job done. Great job man thanks for making these videos!
Great set of videos, very thorough. I wish i had watched before i started this project. I was stuck trying to refit the tranny to the engine, hours of brute force did nothing. Went back and copied your technique shaking the rear and in a couple of minutes it slipped right in. Thank you.
Wow, thanks for the tip about researching clutch bracket fatigue - I was about to start down the path of hydraulics, then clutch, but I found a cracked and spreading clutch pedal bracket! You da man!
These three videos probably saved me hundreds in paying for labour.
Thanks for this series. I'm doing my first clutch and you just made it look so easy.
Thanks a lot dude! I have a leak on my rear main seal and this videos illuminated my process! Im about to do this!
Cheers!
Thank you for your videos. I on Toyota 4runners&pickups very informative saved me time. much appreciated
Hey! I have an 89 4runner, so everything from the chassis to the interior is identical to your truck. Ill be referring to these videos many times in the next few weeks probably so beware of any questions I may have! Thanks for making these man!
Very nicely composed video. Video work and explanations were both great and helped me a lot.
Thanks for posting the video Alex. I'm going to attempt to replace the clutch in my '82 Lux. I'm going to have to buy a few toys though, like maybe a hoist. LOL. Before watching this video, I had no idea what I was in for. Keep the Lux videos coming !
great vid, clutch just went out in my 1999 isuzu amigo 4x4 - 4cyl. this should help me out alot. thanks again.
Nice Job! well documented, and job well done. Thanks for posting this.
Great video, very helpful.
Fantastic video mate keep up the good work.
thank you for the videos , very informative, even that i have no experience. i am having my toyota 94 clutch replaced tomorrow, but i wanted to know what had to be done. thanks again.
Thanks for this video series. My clutch in my '94 just started slipping. Hopefully it'll last longer so I have warmth to work outside. Don't want to be laying in snow for this job.
excelente... he aprendido algo nuevo para mi toyota.
I'm glad I was able to help!
Thanks dude, this helps alot
Awesome videos mate
Excellent set of clutch replacement videos. Next on my to-do list is FJ40 clutch...maybe convert the 1973 over to 4 speed...take care!
thank you man! my dad is super proud of me for doing this job. couldn't have done it alone, good video
Awesome! I've never touched a wrench and don't know half of the parts he was talking about and yet after watching this video I feel like I can do it MYSELF!!!! ;-) Thanks!
You can definitely not do shit if you haven't touched a wrench.
Alright lunar pie...
...
good video, thanks for sharing.
Nice video. I am dreading doing this same repair on my ‘88 22RE. Just spent a month doing the LCE exhaust between weather days in my driveway. That lift would make it a lot easier.
Watching your videos is giving me a "project buzz". I plan to clean the hell out of everything when I pull them out like this hopefully next month.. Bit cold here..
I have a brother that is a great mechanic started in 1977 at 17 years old. He is amazing, he can do anything and his hands don't even get dirty, explain that. I do the littlest thing and I've got to take a shower to get the grease off.
beautiful! thanks alot.
I'm doing a '95 t100 tomorrow if I can find a transmission jack. So far your video looks pretty close to what I'm seeing in my truck. Thanks for posting.
Best of luck to you. I hope this video helps you out.
Just buttoning everything up now. Video definitely helped. Thanks again.
I've taken on the task of changing my own clutch on my 85 Toyota 2wd pickup after watching these how-to videos. This is the first time I've ever changed a clutch. Perhaps the toughest part of the job for someone like me who is working in an uneven rocky dirt driveway, with only a few hand tools, is re-mating the transmission to the engine. Yet this portion of the video is not shown in any detail. Try as I might, I could not get the transmission to fully slide tight with the engine, when trying to remount the transmission. I checked for alignment and everything looked square but it would not completely seat with the engine. So, I did something that I understand you are not suppose to do, using my bolts I inched the two surfaces together over the guide pins. I didn't use excessive force on the bolts to do this but I'm now wondering if I may have messed something up. I've not yet torqued the bolts down. Everything seemed to ease together well, without forcing anything but being new at this repair, I have to ask if I may have inadvertently made a poor choice by doing this. I have two manuals for this truck and neither was very specific about that procedure. Thank you for your reply.
Nice job broo
Thank to your video I'm replacing the clutch of my Toyota truck (4x2 5L engine 3.0 diesel) Everything's almost indentical to your truck but the oil seal container is a little different, and it has a flywheel dust cover plastic ring, it goes between the rear end plate and the rear oil seal container, when I got it, it broken in my hand, here in Uruguay does not exist the replacement, I got to order a copy in an oil seal factory. When I get it I will assembly and will keep going withe balljoints
Its the 3.0 V6 3vze. I dropped the transmission and its at the shop right now. It was popping out of 1st gear and I think the synchros are shot. Also the rear main seal was leaking and the bell housing is coated in oil. I ordered an Aisin clutch kit from rock auto. It looks more or less the same set up you have. The R150 is a heck of a transmission.
The release/throwout bearing can be removed with a couple large sockets and a hammer. The pilot bearing can put up a fight. There are various homebrew methods to remove the pilot bearing. I used a slide hammer in Part 2. You can search TH-cam for other methods. You can probably loan a tool from Advance Auto to pull it out easily. Keep in mind I've never worked on a 98 model so it might be different. Hope everything goes well and I was able to help out.
wish i had a shop like that to work in.
good video
Great series of videos. I think I'll be better off having the mechanic do it since I don't have all the cool lifts.
Free play between the pedal and master cylinder must be correct before bleeding the system. That is done under the dash by adjusting the bolt between the pedal and master cylinder. You want about 1/4 inch of play at the pedal before it starts pushing in the master cylinder piston. Then try bleeding the clutch with new fluid. The hydraulic system is self adjusting but only works if there are no air bubbles in it. Also, do some research on clutch pedal bracket fatigue. It might be cracked.
I have never used a seal sleeve for the crank or anywhere else. Are you sure the leak is from the rear main? It could be oil from the rear of the head gasket, or from the rear of the valve cover. It might also be the trans input seal. Other than that, perhaps your crank has ridges worn from the original seal. Google your question for other people's opinions on seal sleeves.
Pretty soon I'll be uploading a video showing how to install new master and slave cylinders on my 4Runner. You'll be able to use the adjustment part of the video on your Pickup.
how do you adjust pedal freeplay? i recently had a clutch put in mine and was curious as to how to do it
There's no spacer. I just used two gaskets. The original one stayed in place and didn't tear. I put a new one on top of that to move the seal carrier out a bit.
Good Job Alex. I am about do the same thing on my 98 4runner. I just bought the whole part fly wheel and clutch kit. I am just concern about pilot bearing and release bearing removal. what is simple tool l can use to remove both?
Just a side note, the clutch pedal throw/pre-load can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the clutch master cylinder shaft and unhooking the retaining clip and pin from the bracket that attaches the shaft to the pedal arm, then threading the bracket back/forth until you feel comfortable where the pedal engages and you are certain it fully disengages the clutch. I would recommend anyone who does a clutch swap in these trucks check that, as most original owners\dealership mechanics would have adjusted the rod as the clutch wore over time. Mine is at it's absolute limit right now because it hasn't been replaced in so long. That may be the cause of the pressure plate forks being worn so unevenly or bending over time due to the throw out bearing putting pressure on it constantly.
That is incorrect. The clutch hydraulics are self adjusting. The purpose of adjusting the pushrod is the set the initial free play in the pedal. This should be adjusted so there is about 1/4" of movement at the pedal before it starts to depress the piston in the clutch master cylinder. Adjusting it any other way will cause premature wear of the clutch and throwout bearing. Once this is set it should never need to be readjusted. The only reason it would come out of adjustment would be a cracked pedal bracket which is somewhat common on these trucks. The fix in that case is to repair/replace the pedal bracket and readjust the pushrod free play. Do not adjust the pushrod free play as a band-aid for more serious problems.
That is more or less what I was saying...
Ever had a slave cylinder get stuck half way through it's throw? That's what was wrong with mine. Not noticeable in the pedal because of the rebound spring, but that's why it wouldn't move in gear. Sometimes it's the weirdest things.
I think about 4 hours total. Keep in mind it takes a day or two for the machine shop to grind the flywheel so set aside some time for that. An experienced person, with the right tools, and no hold ups could probably do it in 2 hours.
@ramliers There's no adjustment really. I bled the system with new fluid. The only adjustment you can do is pedal free play.
Never used the speedy seal. I've heard of them, never heard any horror stories so I guess they're alright, but once again, no firsthand experience. I didn't see a need in my case, and definitely didn't want to wait for one to come in.
it's also a good idea to clean off the inside of the transmission as well as the outer surface with degreaser or brake cleaner before mounting it back onto the vehicle.
It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to get the inside of the bell-housing looking nice, but there is absolutely no benefit either. It has no affect on longevity or how the vehicle drives. I just wanted to have the truck on the road again.
curious if you could through up I quick parts list I'm ordering parts online and want to make sure I got everything
After replacing the clutch and the rear main seal I've found that I still have a leak. Have you had any experience with a crankshaft sleeve?
It was new but surprisingly not super expensive. Believe it or not we bought it from Costco.
You probably helped162 thousand people replace their own clutch. I used the bread and paper towel method to take out the pilot bearing though. lol
Thanks for this video man, way better than the haynes manual! How did the rear main seal replacement work out? Did you get any leaks using the method you showed? I'm getting ready to do mine, first time ever, and was looking for some pointers. I've also heard tell of something called a speedy seal, have you ever used one?
You should drop the transmission and figure it out as soon as possible. If the bearing is totally seized up it will rapidly damage the pressure plate. Even if everything is fine, you might as well replace the clutch too because it's a lot of work to get to and you wouldn't want to be doing it again soon.
Alex! Face mask? Gloves? Very very naughty... Only kidding, good work fella. That tank is gonna last you forever...
Thanks for the video wish you were near me. Looking at a 87 with a loose clutch needs to be replaced video is amazing but looking like it's going to be a pain in the rear. Only giving $250 for truck is what he is asking. What's a link for the clutch and all I need to replace it? Thank you sir.
Alex, I have a 1990 Toyota pickup, V6, 2 wheel drive, Extra Cab, 5 speed with 275k miles on the original clutch. The clutch still seems to be fine, but the friction point is nearing the floor and I want to adjust it out a bit more. Q: Where/How is the clutch adjusted on this pickup? Also, thanks for all your vids and great info.
This is the second toyota truck video that I've seen where the ultimate culprit was the pressure plate, not the clutch. I'm fairly sure that is what is wrong with mine, and I'm guessing that is also the same for a majority of cases with this truck.
It is possible and not much more difficult to remove and install the transmission just by putting the truck on jack stands.
I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup 4X4, It's getting harder to put the truck into gear. Can hardly get into reverse, it grinds really bad. I replaced the Slave cylinder and Slave Master, still..not shifting good.
Nice video. I wonder if my 1995 clutch is the same.
Very helpful vids man! Im about to do the same thing. I just have one quick question..where did you get that rear main seal spacer?..or what is it called so i can grab one from the part store. cheers!
Where did you get the jack from and what’s it called
Alex, Lots of good stuff here but one ? My Dolphin motor home on a Toyota frame has the cross bar at the end of the tranny welded in place, no bolts other than on the rear tranny mount. Will the tranny come out or do I have to pull the engine and tranny out together?
Two wheel drive so that helps a bit and 4 cylinder. Looks like it may go back 6 inches but is that enough to r&r the clutch?
Great videos - super helpful. What was the total job time?
Nice Video! did you get your lift used or pay mucho bucks for a new one?
They came in a full gasket kit from LC Engineering. Not sure on the manufacturer.
How much does transmission weight
I was hoping you showed us how to bleed the clutch
See the end of this video. th-cam.com/video/5p115o_2SiU/w-d-xo.html
Is this a G52 gearbox?
I'm currently working on a 1986 Bundera Landcruiser and we installed a brand new clutch, throw out, ect. Everything new basically. Now at idle everything is fine. When depressing the clutch and releasing the clutch everything is fine. But when in gear and taking off there is a loud squeal as if metal on metal. It doesn't increase or decrease with revs. Any ideas?
This is a W56 transmission. Just some general suggestions for yours. Since it's not RPM related, check the driveshafts and differential and transmission flange dust shields. Check any skid plates. Check them for any bent metal or rubbing.
@briggs4life1 It sure is handy.
So Alex, How long did this take you to do this? I realize this video is old but, it was very very informative!
The first time I think it took me two days a few hours each day. If you get the flywheel resurfaced you'll have to wait for that. New flywheels are comparable in cost to refinishing your original. I've done it a couple times on different Toyotas and now I can do it in an afternoon. Maybe four hours.
@@TheAlexManVideos Thank you for your reply, I think me and my son are going to make an attempt at this. I will buy a new Flywheel. We have done so much other stuff to my truck, I think this will be a project for us. Thanks Again.
toyota prado patrol 2004 new cluchs
Is it easier on a 2wd
Absolutely easier, half the driveshafts to remove, half the shifters to disconnect, and way less weight to maneuver.
Just realized I already asked you about the seal on a previous video. Answer: no leaks. Sorry about the brain fart, but have you ever used a speedy seal?
22RE? Then it is. I've done one.
Gosh .... I don't wanna do this in the yard
Suggest you mark the drive shaft with the universal joint holes. Drive shafts are balanced and have to go on the same holes they came off of or the universal joint will fail.
+Mike Dunn I have never heard of a driveshaft shop asking you to take the yoke off your trans or differential to balance them and the shaft as a unit, therefore, the orientation of the shaft and yokes doesn't matter at all.
what matters is the "ears" that the cross-joint pushes into being in time to each other. Usually only a problem if you split the drive shafts where their splines interlock.