To each his own. Even if I didn't have to mess with all the EFI stuff, I would prefer doing it the way I did. It may seem like a lot but, two driveshafts, the shifters, and the crossmember isn't that much to remove. I also have the benefit of more room to work. I can easily remove the clutch and flywheel with air tools, replace the rear main seal, and replace the throwout bearing on the bench. But as with all my videos, they are guides. Use them as much or as little as you'd like, just be smart.
Unless you get the same brand the size will vary slightly due to different thicknesses of metal from diferent manufacturers. Just take the part with you and get the socket you need. You'll need a different size to press it back on.
@vaca129 The lift was well under 3 grand. My dad bought that so he could store more cars in the garage during the winter. He doesn't like scraping frost or snow. The trans jack is my grandfather's. He's had it for probably 30 years. I just borrowed it.
It is possible, but it would take way longer than removing the entire engine. Not only that, but if you are replacing/machining the crank, you should also be doing a lot of other work that requires the engine to come out. You might be trying to save time but you'll only be making things harder for yourself and causing more trouble than it's worth.
dose anybody in these comments have any idea why a 1988 4runner with an automatic wouldn't shift through gears in drive? You have to start in 1,...then go to 2,...then go to drive.
I don't mean to be a dick but if everything lines up, it will slide on without force. So if it won't slide on, something doesn't line up. make sure that the friction disk is centered on the flywheel. Did you use the alignment tool? Make sure that the transmission and block are parallel. If the transmission isn't straight in relation to the motor, it won't slide on. And it's not likely but just be sure you don't have a wrench laying in the bell housing or something silly.
Assuming a properly bled system, it's either a bad master or slave cylinder, or a horrible leak in the lines. I don't think you'd over look a leak big enough to stop all movement of the piston at the slave cylinder.
removing the somewhat inaccessible 17mm bolts at 7:44 can be made easier if you place a small round neodymium in the socket. This can be generally useful when removing nuts&bolts so they remain in the sockets and do not drop off in awkward locations.
Thanks for the info. Got everything torn apart. Clutch back in. Having trouble separating the throwout bearing from the housing. What size socket did you use? If you don't remember no big. I'll just size it up at the parts store.
I can't imagine doing it without the trans jack. A motorcycle jack might work too. Without either one it's damn near impossible. I've heard of people doing it with floor jacks but it's not something I ever want to try.
At around 0:50 when you press the clutch the lever on the slave clutch moves back and forth. I have an 87 4Runner that just lost pressure on the clutch. When I push on the clutch the lever on the slave unit does not move at all. I bleed the master and slave unit with no luck. Any thoughts on what might be the problem. I think it might be a seal with internal leaking or a bearing, might even be a broken finger. Any ideas? Would much appriciate any advice. Thanks
I'm driving like this now, it sucks lol! I need to change my clutch but I just did it 10k miles ago so I'm not thrilled about doing it again. I guess that's what you get for loading the truck down with 2,000lbs in the bed with an engine putting out about twice the torque of the old 22r and driving it form California to Washington.
Some clutch kits come with a small packet of grease to use. If you don't have that, honestly any grease will do. Apply only enough to "wet" the shaft. You don't want ANY grease to be able to fling off and contaminate the clutch friction material.
I had to do this once in a Corolla. You tell everyone on board to hang on, and then you turn the key and prepare for whiplash. I drove from Montreal to Vancouver with no clutch, and to summarize: it sucked the big one.
Does it matter if I put the blocks/jackstands under the tires or on the frame? I am guessing that when the transmission is decoupled the suspension the reduced weight (i.e. transmission weight) causes the engine to rise higher, is that a problem?
The transmission needs to go straight back to slide the input shaft out of the friction disk. It can't go back unless the shifters are out. Once you move it back it can come straight down.
To each his own. Even if I didn't have to mess with all the EFI stuff, I would prefer doing it the way I did. It may seem like a lot but, two driveshafts, the shifters, and the crossmember isn't that much to remove. I also have the benefit of more room to work. I can easily remove the clutch and flywheel with air tools, replace the rear main seal, and replace the throwout bearing on the bench. But as with all my videos, they are guides. Use them as much or as little as you'd like, just be smart.
Unless you get the same brand the size will vary slightly due to different thicknesses of metal from diferent manufacturers. Just take the part with you and get the socket you need. You'll need a different size to press it back on.
I think it took me about 5 hours the first time. I could probably do it in 3 if I had to do it again.
@vaca129 The lift was well under 3 grand. My dad bought that so he could store more cars in the garage during the winter. He doesn't like scraping frost or snow. The trans jack is my grandfather's. He's had it for probably 30 years. I just borrowed it.
It is possible, but it would take way longer than removing the entire engine. Not only that, but if you are replacing/machining the crank, you should also be doing a lot of other work that requires the engine to come out. You might be trying to save time but you'll only be making things harder for yourself and causing more trouble than it's worth.
@ramliers A day to remove. One day waiting on parts and the flywheel grinding. Half a day to put it together.
thanks so much for your video . saved me a fortune and was a great experience
dose anybody in these comments have any idea why a 1988 4runner with an automatic wouldn't shift through gears in drive? You have to start in 1,...then go to 2,...then go to drive.
Great help and video, thanks for spending the time to make it!
how much did the lift and the trans jack set you back if you dont mind me asking?
I have a 89 hilux AWD still got original clutch, only did the motor 3 months ago. Drives like a dream.
I don't mean to be a dick but if everything lines up, it will slide on without force. So if it won't slide on, something doesn't line up. make sure that the friction disk is centered on the flywheel. Did you use the alignment tool? Make sure that the transmission and block are parallel. If the transmission isn't straight in relation to the motor, it won't slide on. And it's not likely but just be sure you don't have a wrench laying in the bell housing or something silly.
Thank you for your time and work on putting this together...very informative. I'm anticipating this job on my '92 Toy, and it all looks very similar.
Is that a red Ferrari or Lamborghini I see peeking on the other side?
Yep’ it’s a 308 at 2:31 I noticed the front wheel
Assuming a properly bled system, it's either a bad master or slave cylinder, or a horrible leak in the lines. I don't think you'd over look a leak big enough to stop all movement of the piston at the slave cylinder.
@DemoFly The frame has zero rust. The body is a bit too late to save. I just WD-40 the rust whenever I wash her to hopefully slow the rust down.
removing the somewhat inaccessible 17mm bolts at 7:44 can be made easier if you place a small round neodymium in the socket. This can be generally useful when removing nuts&bolts so they remain in the sockets and do not drop off in awkward locations.
Thanks for the info. Got everything torn apart. Clutch back in. Having trouble separating the throwout bearing from the housing. What size socket did you use? If you don't remember no big. I'll just size it up at the parts store.
I can't imagine doing it without the trans jack. A motorcycle jack might work too. Without either one it's damn near impossible. I've heard of people doing it with floor jacks but it's not something I ever want to try.
At around 0:50 when you press the clutch the lever on the slave clutch moves back and forth. I have an 87 4Runner that just lost pressure on the clutch. When I push on the clutch the lever on the slave unit does not move at all. I bleed the master and slave unit with no luck. Any thoughts on what might be the problem. I think it might be a seal with internal leaking or a bearing, might even be a broken finger. Any ideas? Would much appriciate any advice.
Thanks
I'm driving like this now, it sucks lol! I need to change my clutch but I just did it 10k miles ago so I'm not thrilled about doing it again. I guess that's what you get for loading the truck down with 2,000lbs in the bed with an engine putting out about twice the torque of the old 22r and driving it form California to Washington.
What kind of grease do you use on the clutch splines?
Some clutch kits come with a small packet of grease to use. If you don't have that, honestly any grease will do. Apply only enough to "wet" the shaft. You don't want ANY grease to be able to fling off and contaminate the clutch friction material.
Hello. Thanks for the video. About to put in a rebuilt trans and new clutch on my '85. About how many hours did it take you for full install?
What is the repair manual number please, my book says 92076.
Shut the motor off, put it in gear, start the motor.
This guy sounds like Mike Judge
I have a 2009 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with a 2.7 l 4cyl..... Looks the same mechanically?
Common occurance in my practice. I should be more careful.
Yep it was teh master cylinder. Just replaced it and she is back on the road. Thanks for your advice.
Thealexmanvideos u did the clutch on my truck the only problem im having its the 4x4 doesnt shift
Yeah, I have a mechanic friend who's gonna give me a hand and we're going to pull the motor and rebuild it from the ground up.
Thank you for this. Gotta see why fluid is leaking out of my fork dust boot/slave cylinder area. SC is brand new…looks simple enough
I need to put a new bottom end in my 89. Do you know if I can drop the crank without removing the motor?
ALEX, WHERE DO YOU BAY THE PARTS? I LIKE THE VIDEOS. THANKS FOR MAKE AND SHOW US .
Seems easier to pull the mptor
It's not.
Just wondering, is that a real 308 GTS?
and is it yours? o.o
I think it would be easier to pull engine and replace clutch
quiero sugerencias en el color para mi 1989 pik
up
4wd
Cool thanks!! I am right in the middle of doing this too lol
i did my clutch when i rebuilt the blown motor
at were the 2 last 17mm bolts that you talked about?
Good time to put on some rust prevention.
I can understand shifting gears without using the clutch, but how did you start from a stop?
I had to do this once in a Corolla. You tell everyone on board to hang on, and then you turn the key and prepare for whiplash. I drove from Montreal to Vancouver with no clutch, and to summarize: it sucked the big one.
Knuckle Buster 1:40
Great. Thanks!
Does it matter if I put the blocks/jackstands under the tires or on the frame? I am guessing that when the transmission is decoupled the suspension the reduced weight (i.e. transmission weight) causes the engine to rise higher, is that a problem?
tacomaterpstra It won't matter either way. Just block the engine so it doesn't tilt back when the transmission is removed.
TheAlexManVideos Thanks!!!
The manual say's to remove the fan shroud set bolts. Should that be done?
If the fan is contacting the shroud you can remove it but it wasn't necessary for me.
Been awhile since u loaded vids on the runner, still have it?
Yep, definitely still have it. Driving it every day.
New sub great work
How much does the transmission weight
Quite a bit. Probably 250 pounds or so.
What year is your truck?
he said its an 88
The transmission needs to go straight back to slide the input shaft out of the friction disk. It can't go back unless the shifters are out. Once you move it back it can come straight down.
...gotta thumbs down, because you approved a FORD ad to play before this video.
haha transmissions only held on by 23 years or so