Well, after all that work that 4.78 hp was interesting to achieve, but in the end, I would much rather have it as it is now. That whole exercise was a very good chapter of 026 mods. I thank you for what you do! Keep it goin!
@bigmoustacheal3295 Thanks!! My "abilities" snuck up on me; when I began, I don't think that I had the ability to put "too much" into a saw. It give a whole new respect for the builders that can determine just how hot they want to build a saw. We got some more hair-brained schemes coming!!
Now THIS is interesting content and awesome knowledge!! Most of the time, changes are made to a saw (not necessarily on your channel).....and we see the end result. But there's a LOT more to be learned, from what you're providing here- One of the best parts, is that you reprioritized, and made the saw fit your needs! *Subscribed* I'm still learning, but have 2 lathes, mill, surface grinder, etc.....and bought a pile of 250's & 260's at auction for me and my 2 boys (14 & 16) to learn on. Keep the great content coming. Thanks!
@ls2005019227 Thanks for the kind words!! With the machine tools, you have a good start and (probably) have some of that weird uncanny ability to fix stuff that's not fixable, do stuff that's not doable, and make it look easy. The 250s and 260s are both good-great saws. I really like the 250... it's way different than the 260, but also fun. I hope the boys can find, in saws, something that occupies their mind/hands; a little encouragement and a few samolians for parts will hopefully keep them directed away from rotting on the couch!! Thanks for coming along and chewing the fat with me a little.
@sawnut Thanks Nut!! I hope you learned while I was learning; I am truly just a hack that goes at this stuff with my eyes wide opened; I've sure had some surprises that fly in the face of "common knowledge". Thanks for joining-in and coming along!!
@richardwarn3706 The lucky ones of us get the opportunity to look after their parents when they get older, don't we??!! Thanks for coming along and joining-in!
Very interesting data and I think your dad will be happy with this saw. Don't think of this build as a disaster. Rethink that what you call a "FAIL" simply is a "First Attempt In Learning." I have found this concept very useful over the years. Thanks for another excellent video.
@user-ret-cde-ret Ahh the ol FAIL acronym!! Good one!! I also like the ol "I've learned so dang much from my mistakes, I think I'll go make some more!". Dad did/does like the saw; while I personally preferred it spicier, my shoulders and bones are not 25 years older!! Thanks for joining-in and offering a kind word!!
@joecasatelli4825 Awful kind words, sir!! Thanks!! It is people EXACTLY like you that keep me encouraged to keep making videos; thanks for everything you do!!
Thanks for sharing this information! What failed on the first crank and which bearing failed on the 2nd crank? I'm sorry if you have gone over this in the past, but could you explain how you come up with the fuel consumption data? Thanks!
@jamiewykes8585 The small end rod bearing was the failure point both times. The fuel consumption is by running on the dyno at/near the max HP range (or where it would feel right in the cut) and I hold just the right amount of load to hold the saw at/near that RPM for ~3 minutes. During warm-up and the beginning of the pull, I'm on an aux fuel tank. At or near 250deg F, I begin timing the run and turn the valve to a premeasured fuel tank (by weight); at the end of 3 minutes, I turn the valve back to the original tank for cool-down etc... I take an ending fuel weight and calculate it against the average HP produced during the 3 minute run. Not sure if I hit all of the fine points, but that's the gist of it. I think I went over in better/more fully in the Husq 455 Torture Test video if you are interested further. Personally, I really like the test and am dang sure of any ideas to make it better. The test is just another of my hair brained schemes and am dang sure open to suggestions for improvement. Thanks for coming along and joining in down here!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks, I will look that video up. That sounds like an excellent way to do it to me. I appreciate that you explained it for me even though it was in a video elsewhere.
I'm watching it right now and it is only a month old, so I don't know why I didn't see it. TH-cam says I watched it, but I don't remember seeing it. I certainly would have remembered seeing it, not sure what happened.
@jamiewykes8585 I'm not too proud of that particular video; I got to crying, whining, and begging for "viewer-interactions" in attempt the "grow the channel" and lost sight of just providing good information... didn't mind a bit to type it out for you; thought it may make it easier for you to offer any solutions to problems I hadn't considered.... or just offer the "problems" for me to be aware. We can all help each other to grow!! Thank you!!!!
Well shucks, after seein’ thison I’m startin’ to see you’ve had considerable more book learnin’ then I give’d ya credit fer. I’m a wonderin’ if’n ya would learn us about that there volumetric efficiency on them there saws yer workin’ on. Sure do preciate seein’ this stuff! I do kindly enjoy it a heap more though when you go into that “Festus fundamental english” All kidding aside, I really do enjoy your videos and hope your channel grows ;)
@siskiyouwoodsman4279 They never learnt us nothin' 'bout volume in school... other than to keep telling me to "keep it down". We sure did learn a little bit about in on THIS saw though. When I started, it wanted 10 deg timing advance. It's back to stock now and not sure that I couldn't retard it a degree or two and gain some more. The top of that piston is as slick as the inside of a grape skin now!! I gotta try to watch my normal speaking now, I've gathered viewers from ALL sorts of countries that English (let alone hillbilly) is not their first language. I find myself slipping back when I don't keep my mind on my mouth. ... it's hard enough to edit out my "sayings" that are not family friendly. Just like the slicker than the inside of a grape peel is NOT something I would have said last year... I might have been chased out of town by a passel of torches and pitchforks by some and related-to by others. Frig... I'm rambling again. Thanks for stopping in and jawin' a spell!!
@TheGreasyShopRag This will just be a SWAG because I've only had 2 stock saws subjected to the test since the time that I "invented" it. Both were similar (within ~5 degrees!!) to the detuned; it may not a fair (apple to apple) comparison though; both stock saws were Husky 455 Rancher XTORQ. But I will speculate that the detuned will be cooler than completely stock; spoiler alert, but doing muffler mod on the Husky cooled it another ~30 degrees thereby allowing HP increase before the "stock" temp is reached again. In a word, I don't know, but probably. Thanks Scott!!
@wierd-al_3336 The ignition timing is stock; it actually MAY have benefited from retarding a degree or two?? After I make the chamber/piston combination more efficient, it no longer liked timing advance. The cyl is still offset 0.060... it's is too easy of a gain to overlook it ever again if the saw will allow it. Thanks for the well-wishes and I hope you have a grand day too!!
It's hard to beat a 455 for fuel consumption but it's nice to shed a few pounds. Do you think your timing numbers would work on a husqvarna 50 with a 55 bigbore kit? I love what you did with that saw. Very impressive. Thanks
@itllkeal I'm not, at all, familiar with the 50-55, but I am beginning to believe that any old exhaust and intake numbers will work on any saw if the port shapes and volume(s) are there to support it. Those timing numbers are well within the "safe" numbers for nearly any saw; bear in mind that I do not measure with the "first ray of light" but measure with 0.035 mig wire; I do it that way because my fingers can "see" better than my eyes.
@itllkeal Couple of more tips: 1) make sure you round the end of the wire buttery smooth so it won't scratch a piston and whatnot. 2) if you're accustomed to "first ray of light", take a measurement THAT way and then with the wire; you'll need to know the difference if you're trying to duplicate someone else's numbers.
@fabzacres-blackcat The fuel economy surprised me; may have been due to a better burn due to a flat top... I don't know; seems like a good place to test further!!
@Kevin.L_ I like where you're going with this!! I did *always* measure the 026 at ~10K (this saw's normal peak hp) and measure the Husky at ~9k (its rated hp)... BUUUT, you may be on to something... what if the Max HP/RPM moved considerably? JUST when I think I've got it figured out, you always give me another thought; steel sharpens steel!! Thanks for that!
@SepticWhelk We'll see if I can duplicate it!! I *think* I know the reason; I think I cleaned up the burn efficiency greatly. Ol Ironhorse has been preaching it for years, but I was too hard-headed to listen.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1Peak efficiency is normally closer to peak torque. Your graphs show torque dropping fairly early in the rpm range. So it makes sense to me that as you tune for higher HP at higher rpm efficiency is the trade off.
@Kevin.L_ Ahh... fodder for the brain!! Love it. I can see highest efficiency being at highest torque due to the combustion gasses being trapped the longest/hardest and expelling the most energy onto the piston's top.... most torque. On one hand, testing at max. torque may be scientifically the best, but I feel that most saws are used at/near peak HP ( the mathematically best compromise between RPM and torque)? You got me thinking now!! I'm considering that the test may be more theoretically and scientifically valid at max torque (a lot of times, max torque is nearer 5K RPM and JUST before stalling the cluth/chain) , but more "real world" at max HP?? Thoughts???
@@HayChaffandSawdust1Testing at Max torque would just be for curiosity sake. Like you said no one runs a saw there. Too slow in the cut plus the clutch wouldn't likely last long. Just a mental exercise.
I believe you’re seeing better economy because the lower compression engine is running free-er … also you can (comparatively speaking) get away with a much leaner F/A ratio. Making less overall power but perhaps the saw is now a better “worksaw” … 6 of 1 , half dozen of the other I guess … It wood be interesting to calculate the cords cut per gallon of fuel using the 130psi vs the 165psi. It appears from your data that although the lower compression saw may lose in a cookie cut it will cut more wood per gallon of fuel - not AS fast as the hi compression but a considerable upgrade from stock fo sure! Interesting results but not out of line with my experience. I don’t happen to have a Dyno in a shed so I’ve gotta do the “fill the tank - cut a KNOWN qty of wood then empty into a graduated cylinder to measure fuel used” method … kinda ghetto - tech vs that fancy apparatus you’ve got but it’ll get ya to the same dance! The HEAT is also a factor as an air cooled 2-banger likes to run at a certain Temperature range. It’s all a dizzying dance that can sometimes seem counterintuitive to what the “experts say” 😂
@fabzacres-blackcat I sure ain't started to corner the cause/effect, but I would speculate that the squish area, squish velocity, a more efficient piston shape, lower RPMs (allowing more burn time before the exhaust opens) and a plethora of other things attributed to the gain. Who knows, it could have JUST been the tune (I don't think so, but I have to be cognizant of it). The temp range is a fickle mistress!! I feel that heat in the bottom end is far worse than heat in the cyl; the danged phenomenon know as "conduction" and ring leakage keeps heating that danged lower end!! Hotter top end runs pretty danged good until you smear the piston... then, not so much!!
@ hmm 🤔 could be ! I’d say around 300F is a nice spot to be for continuous hard running , cut after cut after cut. The “Final tune” might just be a $5 sparkplug with a lower or higher heat range. A word of caution tho - counterfeit NGK plugs are floating around that can cause you issues - gotta look for the “batch #” on the plug itself to make sure it’s genuine!
@fabzacres-blackcat I'm developing the opinion that 350F to 375 is ~normal. Right now, my personal line-in-the-sand is 400ish. I think 300 might make for a long lived saw, but would be hard on fuel. Just a working theory.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 well it’s 17 degrees here in wny ! If I run the same jetting when it’s 80 I betch the temps will be closer to 375-400 🤣 … they make thermocouples that fit under the plug that give ya an accurate reading. That’s what I use - an infrared thermometer will most likely give ya your number when the thermal couple sez about 300. 🤷 … I prefer the under the plug method as the chainsaw cylinders got a fan blowing ambient temp air on one side and nothing on the other. Either way ya run too hot u gonna lose power and up to 20% on an air cooled motor. So she gets too hot and all that grinding / machine work goes right down the toilet 🚽 in addition to less engine life. I’d rather err on the side of being a fuzz rich and letting the fuel cool 😎 - continuous cuts / loading the saw / dull chain etc might take that UP to 350-375 from 300 see. If you’re at 375 from jump street ya just might spike into the 400-450 range and then you’re REALLY going backwards. Another way would be to have a egt probe at “X” distance from the piston. I always thought ya should be pig rich when starting the saw and it should take a long 20sec cut or 3 to get the saw up to temp where she evens out and STAYS there. That’s why I’m not a big fan of jacking the heck outta the compression - you’re adding in an “x” factor to an already formidable boondoggle to begin with , but what the hell do I know ? I’m just a hack with a file 😎
@fabzacres-blackcat Maybe so!! Of course, I don't run a saw on the dyno as much as in-the-wood, but I was running a saw on the dyno the other day (~33 F ambient) and it seemed to heat the thermocouple about as-fast as in 70F weather. The cool-down between pulls was MUCH faster though; I had trouble beginning the dyno run at my normal 250F threshold; it sure cooled quick between cuts!!
@camrynrhodes798 Stock DOES make a dang good work saw while fitting within decibel restrictions and whatnot. This one has less static compression (easier to pull over) while having better flow thru the engine and a more-efficient combustion allowing it to produce more power and with increased fuel efficiency while still being mild on the ears. There's just some stuff that can't be done on an assembly line or by automation.
A genuine firewood cuttin saw ! 😊
Well, after all that work that 4.78 hp was interesting to achieve, but in the end, I would much rather have it as it is now. That whole exercise was a very good chapter of 026 mods. I thank you for what you do! Keep it goin!
@bigmoustacheal3295 Thanks!! My "abilities" snuck up on me; when I began, I don't think that I had the ability to put "too much" into a saw. It give a whole new respect for the builders that can determine just how hot they want to build a saw. We got some more hair-brained schemes coming!!
Now THIS is interesting content and awesome knowledge!! Most of the time, changes are made to a saw (not necessarily on your channel).....and we see the end result. But there's a LOT more to be learned, from what you're providing here- One of the best parts, is that you reprioritized, and made the saw fit your needs! *Subscribed*
I'm still learning, but have 2 lathes, mill, surface grinder, etc.....and bought a pile of 250's & 260's at auction for me and my 2 boys (14 & 16) to learn on.
Keep the great content coming. Thanks!
@ls2005019227 Thanks for the kind words!! With the machine tools, you have a good start and (probably) have some of that weird uncanny ability to fix stuff that's not fixable, do stuff that's not doable, and make it look easy. The 250s and 260s are both good-great saws. I really like the 250... it's way different than the 260, but also fun. I hope the boys can find, in saws, something that occupies their mind/hands; a little encouragement and a few samolians for parts will hopefully keep them directed away from rotting on the couch!! Thanks for coming along and chewing the fat with me a little.
Looks like a winner to me. Got a lot of ideas from this series of builds. Thanks, appreciate your effort and sharing.
@sawnut Thanks Nut!! I hope you learned while I was learning; I am truly just a hack that goes at this stuff with my eyes wide opened; I've sure had some surprises that fly in the face of "common knowledge". Thanks for joining-in and coming along!!
Thank you for the video, good looking out for your dad.I will be looking for the next one.
@richardwarn3706 The lucky ones of us get the opportunity to look after their parents when they get older, don't we??!! Thanks for coming along and joining-in!
Very interesting data and I think your dad will be happy with this saw. Don't think of this build as a disaster. Rethink that what you call a "FAIL" simply is a "First Attempt In Learning." I have found this concept very useful over the years. Thanks for another excellent video.
@user-ret-cde-ret Ahh the ol FAIL acronym!! Good one!! I also like the ol "I've learned so dang much from my mistakes, I think I'll go make some more!". Dad did/does like the saw; while I personally preferred it spicier, my shoulders and bones are not 25 years older!! Thanks for joining-in and offering a kind word!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 ❤
What a great series of videos, regardless of the outcome, I'll be a subscriber as long as you make content
@joecasatelli4825 Awful kind words, sir!! Thanks!! It is people EXACTLY like you that keep me encouraged to keep making videos; thanks for everything you do!!
Great video, thanks for sharing!
@mattw5729 Thanks for coming along!! Making videos is like throwing a temper tantrum... ain't no fun if nobody is watching!!
Thanks for sharing this information!
What failed on the first crank and which bearing failed on the 2nd crank?
I'm sorry if you have gone over this in the past, but could you explain how you come up with the fuel consumption data? Thanks!
@jamiewykes8585 The small end rod bearing was the failure point both times.
The fuel consumption is by running on the dyno at/near the max HP range (or where it would feel right in the cut) and I hold just the right amount of load to hold the saw at/near that RPM for ~3 minutes. During warm-up and the beginning of the pull, I'm on an aux fuel tank. At or near 250deg F, I begin timing the run and turn the valve to a premeasured fuel tank (by weight); at the end of 3 minutes, I turn the valve back to the original tank for cool-down etc... I take an ending fuel weight and calculate it against the average HP produced during the 3 minute run. Not sure if I hit all of the fine points, but that's the gist of it. I think I went over in better/more fully in the Husq 455 Torture Test video if you are interested further. Personally, I really like the test and am dang sure of any ideas to make it better. The test is just another of my hair brained schemes and am dang sure open to suggestions for improvement. Thanks for coming along and joining in down here!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks, I will look that video up. That sounds like an excellent way to do it to me. I appreciate that you explained it for me even though it was in a video elsewhere.
I'm watching it right now and it is only a month old, so I don't know why I didn't see it. TH-cam says I watched it, but I don't remember seeing it. I certainly would have remembered seeing it, not sure what happened.
@jamiewykes8585 I'm not too proud of that particular video; I got to crying, whining, and begging for "viewer-interactions" in attempt the "grow the channel" and lost sight of just providing good information... didn't mind a bit to type it out for you; thought it may make it easier for you to offer any solutions to problems I hadn't considered.... or just offer the "problems" for me to be aware. We can all help each other to grow!! Thank you!!!!
Good saw
@darrelljohnson4658 Thanks, I think so too!
Well shucks, after seein’ thison I’m startin’ to see you’ve had considerable more book learnin’ then I give’d ya credit fer. I’m a wonderin’ if’n ya would learn us about that there volumetric efficiency on them there saws yer workin’ on. Sure do preciate seein’ this stuff! I do kindly enjoy it a heap more though when you go into that “Festus fundamental english” All kidding aside, I really do enjoy your videos and hope your channel grows ;)
@siskiyouwoodsman4279 They never learnt us nothin' 'bout volume in school... other than to keep telling me to "keep it down". We sure did learn a little bit about in on THIS saw though. When I started, it wanted 10 deg timing advance. It's back to stock now and not sure that I couldn't retard it a degree or two and gain some more. The top of that piston is as slick as the inside of a grape skin now!!
I gotta try to watch my normal speaking now, I've gathered viewers from ALL sorts of countries that English (let alone hillbilly) is not their first language. I find myself slipping back when I don't keep my mind on my mouth. ... it's hard enough to edit out my "sayings" that are not family friendly. Just like the slicker than the inside of a grape peel is NOT something I would have said last year... I might have been chased out of town by a passel of torches and pitchforks by some and related-to by others.
Frig... I'm rambling again. Thanks for stopping in and jawin' a spell!!
Nice. I would have liked to see the temperature graph of a stock saw just for comparison. Do you think its similar to the detuned version?
@TheGreasyShopRag This will just be a SWAG because I've only had 2 stock saws subjected to the test since the time that I "invented" it. Both were similar (within ~5 degrees!!) to the detuned; it may not a fair (apple to apple) comparison though; both stock saws were Husky 455 Rancher XTORQ. But I will speculate that the detuned will be cooler than completely stock; spoiler alert, but doing muffler mod on the Husky cooled it another ~30 degrees thereby allowing HP increase before the "stock" temp is reached again. In a word, I don't know, but probably. Thanks Scott!!
Is the timing stock or still adjusted?
Did you machine the last cylinder so it sits slightly forwards also?
Have a good day.
@wierd-al_3336 The ignition timing is stock; it actually MAY have benefited from retarding a degree or two?? After I make the chamber/piston combination more efficient, it no longer liked timing advance. The cyl is still offset 0.060... it's is too easy of a gain to overlook it ever again if the saw will allow it. Thanks for the well-wishes and I hope you have a grand day too!!
It's hard to beat a 455 for fuel consumption but it's nice to shed a few pounds. Do you think your timing numbers would work on a husqvarna 50 with a 55 bigbore kit? I love what you did with that saw. Very impressive. Thanks
@itllkeal I'm not, at all, familiar with the 50-55, but I am beginning to believe that any old exhaust and intake numbers will work on any saw if the port shapes and volume(s) are there to support it. Those timing numbers are well within the "safe" numbers for nearly any saw; bear in mind that I do not measure with the "first ray of light" but measure with 0.035 mig wire; I do it that way because my fingers can "see" better than my eyes.
@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks again for the tips. I have some .040 wire.
@itllkeal Couple of more tips: 1) make sure you round the end of the wire buttery smooth so it won't scratch a piston and whatnot. 2) if you're accustomed to "first ray of light", take a measurement THAT way and then with the wire; you'll need to know the difference if you're trying to duplicate someone else's numbers.
@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks for the tips. Are those numbers safe for a easy to start saw?
@@itllkeal They sure are; start and idle fine.After the first start (4-5 pulls from cold), it would start on 1/4 pull on idle *or* WOT
THIS !
@fabzacres-blackcat The fuel economy surprised me; may have been due to a better burn due to a flat top... I don't know; seems like a good place to test further!!
I would think the improved economy is likely due to lower rpm, but did you say you measured at 10k?
@Kevin.L_ I like where you're going with this!! I did *always* measure the 026 at ~10K (this saw's normal peak hp) and measure the Husky at ~9k (its rated hp)... BUUUT, you may be on to something... what if the Max HP/RPM moved considerably? JUST when I think I've got it figured out, you always give me another thought; steel sharpens steel!! Thanks for that!
I don't call that a disaster , just not what i like . But now ! more bottom end torque more mid range HP less petrol , that's a unicorn . I WANT ONE .
@SepticWhelk We'll see if I can duplicate it!! I *think* I know the reason; I think I cleaned up the burn efficiency greatly. Ol Ironhorse has been preaching it for years, but I was too hard-headed to listen.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1Peak efficiency is normally closer to peak torque. Your graphs show torque dropping fairly early in the rpm range. So it makes sense to me that as you tune for higher HP at higher rpm efficiency is the trade off.
@Kevin.L_ Ahh... fodder for the brain!! Love it. I can see highest efficiency being at highest torque due to the combustion gasses being trapped the longest/hardest and expelling the most energy onto the piston's top.... most torque. On one hand, testing at max. torque may be scientifically the best, but I feel that most saws are used at/near peak HP ( the mathematically best compromise between RPM and torque)? You got me thinking now!! I'm considering that the test may be more theoretically and scientifically valid at max torque (a lot of times, max torque is nearer 5K RPM and JUST before stalling the cluth/chain) , but more "real world" at max HP?? Thoughts???
@@HayChaffandSawdust1Testing at Max torque would just be for curiosity sake. Like you said no one runs a saw there. Too slow in the cut plus the clutch wouldn't likely last long. Just a mental exercise.
I believe you’re seeing better economy because the lower compression engine is running free-er … also you can (comparatively speaking) get away with a much leaner F/A ratio. Making less overall power but perhaps the saw is now a better “worksaw” … 6 of 1 , half dozen of the other I guess … It wood be interesting to calculate the cords cut per gallon of fuel using the 130psi vs the 165psi. It appears from your data that although the lower compression saw may lose in a cookie cut it will cut more wood per gallon of fuel - not AS fast as the hi compression but a considerable upgrade from stock fo sure! Interesting results but not out of line with my experience. I don’t happen to have a Dyno in a shed so I’ve gotta do the “fill the tank - cut a KNOWN qty of wood then empty into a graduated cylinder to measure fuel used” method … kinda ghetto - tech vs that fancy apparatus you’ve got but it’ll get ya to the same dance! The HEAT is also a factor as an air cooled 2-banger likes to run at a certain Temperature range. It’s all a dizzying dance that can sometimes seem counterintuitive to what the “experts say”
😂
@fabzacres-blackcat I sure ain't started to corner the cause/effect, but I would speculate that the squish area, squish velocity, a more efficient piston shape, lower RPMs (allowing more burn time before the exhaust opens) and a plethora of other things attributed to the gain. Who knows, it could have JUST been the tune (I don't think so, but I have to be cognizant of it).
The temp range is a fickle mistress!! I feel that heat in the bottom end is far worse than heat in the cyl; the danged phenomenon know as "conduction" and ring leakage keeps heating that danged lower end!! Hotter top end runs pretty danged good until you smear the piston... then, not so much!!
@ hmm 🤔 could be ! I’d say around 300F is a nice spot to be for continuous hard running , cut after cut after cut. The “Final tune” might just be a $5 sparkplug with a lower or higher heat range. A word of caution tho - counterfeit NGK plugs are floating around that can cause you issues - gotta look for the “batch #” on the plug itself to make sure it’s genuine!
@fabzacres-blackcat I'm developing the opinion that 350F to 375 is ~normal. Right now, my personal line-in-the-sand is 400ish. I think 300 might make for a long lived saw, but would be hard on fuel. Just a working theory.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 well it’s 17 degrees here in wny ! If I run the same jetting when it’s 80 I betch the temps will be closer to 375-400 🤣 … they make thermocouples that fit under the plug that give ya an accurate reading. That’s what I use - an infrared thermometer will most likely give ya your number when the thermal couple sez about 300. 🤷 … I prefer the under the plug method as the chainsaw cylinders got a fan blowing ambient temp air on one side and nothing on the other. Either way ya run too hot u gonna lose power and up to 20% on an air cooled motor. So she gets too hot and all that grinding / machine work goes right down the toilet 🚽 in addition to less engine life. I’d rather err on the side of being a fuzz rich and letting the fuel cool 😎 - continuous cuts / loading the saw / dull chain etc might take that UP to 350-375 from 300 see. If you’re at 375 from jump street ya just might spike into the 400-450 range and then you’re REALLY going backwards. Another way would be to have a egt probe at “X” distance from the piston. I always thought ya should be pig rich when starting the saw and it should take a long 20sec cut or 3 to get the saw up to temp where she evens out and STAYS there. That’s why I’m not a big fan of jacking the heck outta the compression - you’re adding in an “x” factor to an already formidable boondoggle to begin with , but what the hell do I know ? I’m just a hack with a file 😎
@fabzacres-blackcat Maybe so!! Of course, I don't run a saw on the dyno as much as in-the-wood, but I was running a saw on the dyno the other day (~33 F ambient) and it seemed to heat the thermocouple about as-fast as in 70F weather. The cool-down between pulls was MUCH faster though; I had trouble beginning the dyno run at my normal 250F threshold; it sure cooled quick between cuts!!
ya that's cool dad comes first.
@tomintexas817 Heck yeah!! He wants and NEEDS to keep working an moving; I'll do what I can to facilitate that!!!
Stock are the best work saws.
@camrynrhodes798 Stock DOES make a dang good work saw while fitting within decibel restrictions and whatnot. This one has less static compression (easier to pull over) while having better flow thru the engine and a more-efficient combustion allowing it to produce more power and with increased fuel efficiency while still being mild on the ears. There's just some stuff that can't be done on an assembly line or by automation.