Great video...I'm doing a handle replacement on my bike. I'm curious, what size is the new handle bar? Did you have to replace the front brake lines to complement the new bar? If so, what size did you use to replaced it? Where did you find the correct router with the brake lines? Thanks.
I believe this was the 8.5 or 9 inch handle bar. I must have included all the parts in the description for the video. And yes the brake lines had to be replaced. The stock ones are short for the riser. Please let me know if any questions or if the description don’t have the links for the products I used. Good luck!
Nice explanation, When you replace front upper and lower hoses by a new ones They are empty of oil but full of air , after installation and bleeding the system by the caliper, fill the reservoir and begin sucking down, this operation Will take the upper hose air into the solenoids before getting down the caliper. No problem there?
Emilio, That was my biggest fear too. I probably checked the brake line setup 20 times because I did not want the air pocket to get to the ABS unit on the rear of the motorcycle. So, if you look at where the front and the rear break line come together there is a junction slightly above the front tire fender and it’s bolted on the front fork. That junction is angled slightly upwards the air pocket has to defy gravity to go towards the direction of the abs unit. And it’s a long travel for the air pocket to get there. Yet I tried to take extra precaution by doing the reverse bleed first so I could drive most air bubble up the line. When doing so I am using the force of the syringe plunger and not using the brake squeeze at all, which is likely the only force that can send a bubble towards the solenoid. Once most/enough bubble has cleared then I went ahead with how most folks bleed a brake line from the reservoir down the caliper. I also did not ride the day I installed the line and made sure to tie the brake caliper with a zip tie. That just made the brakes so much firm but not yet to the firmness before the brake line switch. The next day a quick ride - extra careful ride of course :). One more regular bleeding (reservoir to caliper) the next day and overnight tie down with zip tie and all was back to normal. Sorry for the super long response but trying to explain in words what my experience was. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck.
@@thisisfbp thanks for your explanation, helped me too much. I do not know if the front upper and lower hoses are connected in the manifold block by a hole, if not, a reverse bleeding could not force air pocket from lower hose into solenoid?
@@emiliomed there’s a small metal box that serves as a junction box of front upper, front lower and two lines for the back. All connects at that junction piece that needs to be replaced when you swap the line. If only I could share some pictures it would make it a ton easier but I see you already know tons about this stuff. So thanks for allowing me to share what I learned from my personal experience.
Great video Daljit, you were correct, there are not a lot of videos out there for ABS bikes. Im getting ready to do my 2016 FXDLS, I have duals in the front, wish I could see the sequence in which you replaced the lines. Do you totally empty the lines through bleeding through calipers before you disable the lines first? drain first, pull everything apart, reinstall, the bleed from the bottom, then from the top?
Hi Bryan, you actually guessed the sequence correct. I drained the line first from the bleeding valve in the calipers. I did this the old school way by squeezing the brakes while opening the value and closing valve then letting go of brakes. Once the line was empty, I gutted out the top half of the brake line then the bottom half. While installing new line, I assembled the bottom first and then the top half. Once ready to put brake oil, I did reverse bleed from bottom. Then after I drained out the master cylinder couple times. Then started bleeding from bottom by filling oil from master cylinder. I have the videos but just realizing how hard it is to create content. One of these days I am going to just birth the videos. Let me know if you have any follow-up questions.
I think double disk brakes would look awesome for the front wheels. I am actually happy with the front brakes on the sportster. I don’t think the rear brakes are any good.
I have no clue what you were talking about. It would be great. If you just made a video of you doing it explaining what to do step-by-step you’re going back-and-forth what you did or didn’t do. I appreciate the video but I have no clue what you were explaining.
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Sorry, i cant understand, why changing all the brake hoses. Why dont change just the uper one, from the master cyl to the juntion box?!
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Glad this was helpful. I have 8 hours of video and don’t know where to start for a more comprehensive content that’s even more helpful.
Great video...I'm doing a handle replacement on my bike. I'm curious, what size is the new handle bar? Did you have to replace the front brake lines to complement the new bar? If so, what size did you use to replaced it? Where did you find the correct router with the brake lines? Thanks.
I believe this was the 8.5 or 9 inch handle bar. I must have included all the parts in the description for the video. And yes the brake lines had to be replaced. The stock ones are short for the riser. Please let me know if any questions or if the description don’t have the links for the products I used. Good luck!
Nice explanation, When you replace front upper and lower hoses by a new ones They are empty of oil but full of air , after installation and bleeding the system by the caliper, fill the reservoir and begin sucking down, this operation Will take the upper hose air into the solenoids before getting down the caliper.
No problem there?
Emilio, That was my biggest fear too. I probably checked the brake line setup 20 times because I did not want the air pocket to get to the ABS unit on the rear of the motorcycle. So, if you look at where the front and the rear break line come together there is a junction slightly above the front tire fender and it’s bolted on the front fork. That junction is angled slightly upwards the air pocket has to defy gravity to go towards the direction of the abs unit. And it’s a long travel for the air pocket to get there. Yet I tried to take extra precaution by doing the reverse bleed first so I could drive most air bubble up the line. When doing so I am using the force of the syringe plunger and not using the brake squeeze at all, which is likely the only force that can send a bubble towards the solenoid. Once most/enough bubble has cleared then I went ahead with how most folks bleed a brake line from the reservoir down the caliper. I also did not ride the day I installed the line and made sure to tie the brake caliper with a zip tie. That just made the brakes so much firm but not yet to the firmness before the brake line switch. The next day a quick ride - extra careful ride of course :). One more regular bleeding (reservoir to caliper) the next day and overnight tie down with zip tie and all was back to normal. Sorry for the super long response but trying to explain in words what my experience was. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck.
@@thisisfbp thanks for your explanation, helped me too much.
I do not know if the front upper and lower hoses are connected in the manifold block by a hole, if not, a reverse bleeding could not force air pocket from lower hose into solenoid?
@@emiliomed there’s a small metal box that serves as a junction box of front upper, front lower and two lines for the back. All connects at that junction piece that needs to be replaced when you swap the line. If only I could share some pictures it would make it a ton easier but I see you already know tons about this stuff. So thanks for allowing me to share what I learned from my personal experience.
Hello,
Nice and informative video. Which kit/ brake line did you use. Please add link from where you got it.
Thanks
Added the kit I used in the description. Good luck!
Great video Daljit, you were correct, there are not a lot of videos out there for ABS bikes. Im getting ready to do my 2016 FXDLS, I have duals in the front, wish I could see the sequence in which you replaced the lines. Do you totally empty the lines through bleeding through calipers before you disable the lines first? drain first, pull everything apart, reinstall, the bleed from the bottom, then from the top?
Hi Bryan, you actually guessed the sequence correct. I drained the line first from the bleeding valve in the calipers. I did this the old school way by squeezing the brakes while opening the value and closing valve then letting go of brakes. Once the line was empty, I gutted out the top half of the brake line then the bottom half. While installing new line, I assembled the bottom first and then the top half. Once ready to put brake oil, I did reverse bleed from bottom. Then after I drained out the master cylinder couple times. Then started bleeding from bottom by filling oil from master cylinder.
I have the videos but just realizing how hard it is to create content. One of these days I am going to just birth the videos. Let me know if you have any follow-up questions.
Did you remove the main fuse before you start installing the new lines ?
I did not remove the fuse. That does sound safe thought. I did disconnect the fuel line.
..... and!....I guess double- Disc- Brakes would suit the best for the Motorcycle!....☺️
I think double disk brakes would look awesome for the front wheels. I am actually happy with the front brakes on the sportster. I don’t think the rear brakes are any good.
I have no clue what you were talking about. It would be great. If you just made a video of you doing it explaining what to do step-by-step you’re going back-and-forth what you did or didn’t do. I appreciate the video but I have no clue what you were explaining.
useless narrative style ..you just drive
Will try to do a better job on next videos. Appreciate the feedback.