Hi Patrick, I just wanted to say thanks for the super clear explanation for how to bleed breaks. You've no idea how hard I've found it to find a clear explanation coupled with a nice clean video of how to do it. I wish I'd found your channel sooner. I was going to have to get the bus to work tomorrow but now I'm riding! Cheers again to you and happy new year to all at J&P Cycles. Daryll
That is what the one way bleeder valve is for , so you don't have to close the bleeder screw every time someone let's off the break lever , this is why this tool was invented , now granted he might be just being Xtra careful not to introduce new air in the break line , but with this tool you should be able to leave the bleeder valve open on the caliper, pump the break lever being careful not to run out of fluid in the reservoir up top , keeping it filled and just make sure on the last pump to go ahead an tighten your bleeder valve screw before removing the one way valve from motion pro , just on the last step for precaution.
i that what the bleeder one way check valve is for ??? for a one man service like having those super tall bars, so he still brought in a man to work the lever for show ???
If you have this one-way-flowing hose, why would you need to close the bleed screw everytime? Shouldn't the hose prevent the fluid/air from being sucked back when releasing the lever?
vanoscrap ......you come to watch this video to learn something. Just do it the way he shows and don’t ask stupid questions. His process is exactly as H-D specifies. If there was something else in the process you needed to know, he would’ve explained it.
@@caseyplooy1696 no question is stupid when you're trying to LEARN something. You completely disregarded his question by avoiding it. Maybe you're too stupid to TEACH someone something. You seem to be in everyone comments talking out your ass even years later. If you knew how to bleed brakes, why are you watching a how-to video on it?
Nobody seems to know about One-Way/One Man bleeder vavles. They cost $5-6.00 bucks at any auto supply. I got mine at Napa. This gizmo allows fluid to exit the system but won't allow any Air to be sucked into the system. Keep the reservoir full, pump lever till you only see Clear, Clean fluid (no bubbles) then shut the brake valve. Top off the Reservoir (don't over fill) and put on cap/lid. Test ride with hard braking and check to see if you need to add fluid. Done
Martin Sage .......actually everyone knows about one way valves......and then you just repeated everything else that he did in the video like we didn’t just see it done the right way in the video. I guess that’s why he works for J&P cycles and you don’t.
What's the point in using a one way check valve if you're going to manually bleed the system, the whole point of it is to keep the nipple open while you pump the lever pushing the fluid through solo.
Intended or not I think in the way he was doing it the one way valve helped because he was opening the bleed valve before pulling the lever. If manual bleeding always pull the lever first, then open valve. When lever drops to bar hold it there and close valve. If you open valve first you risk drawing air in through it.
@@north5760 the whole point of a one way check valve is so you don't have to keep opening and closing the bleed nipple, just open it and pump the brake, make sure there is a couple of inches of fluid in the waste bottle so the pipe doesn't draw air. Simple
@@yammydodger1988 I'm aware of how a check valve works. What I'm saying is it was fortunate he had it there in the unusual manner he did it because if he didn't have it he wasn't doing the manual bleed correctly and he would have had air in the system.
On a complete reservoir replacement how many “strokes” does it typically take to bleed brakes ? Last time I did it I didn’t think I’d ever get them bled
I just gravity bleed, no need to pump lever. Open the bleeder and let it drip. Keep a close eye on the res level and get it as low as possible without uncovering the outlet before adding fluid. This will keep the fresh fluid from being mixed with the old. Bleed until the fluid in the plastic line comes out clear. 1 man and a piece of cake.
Question. I am changing my bars on a 2021 road king. I am not replacing the whole brake line, just using an extension line from fat baggers Do I just pour new brake fluid in the reservoir ?
Hell yeah thank you for the good info..i swapped out my front break pads and got air into the line and couldnt get the air out...i drove 11/2 days with no front brakes..scary shit but its my only vehicle so i didnt really have a choice..then today after searching and watching videos i finally came across yours and got the info i needed to bleed the air out of the line correctly and without costing but only a couple bucks..thanks alot i really do appreciate it.. I subed also
wait, so on other videos they do this order, "pump lever, build pressure, hold lever, open valve, bleed, close valve, release lever", but you did "open valve, hold lever once, bleed, close valve, release lever" which one is right?
I have always seen or heard that you pump the break first, then open bleeder. Am I backwards, or can you comment why you open first and then press lever?
when you squeeze the brake the piston pushes fluid, and when you release it sucks back up, meaning the fluid sucks back into the system. hope that makes sense
Wait what? Change brake fluid twice per year? Hmmm, just changing the fluid now (8-20-24) for the first time on mo 2005 Deluxe, not that the brakes were lacking though, never were. See how the new fluid goes. Thank you. Greetings from Boxford, MA
Ok this is an out of the box question. I have a Royal Enfield Thunderbird 500. I have had this issue for a few weeks now. Air gaps into the Brake Lines, the rear Brake Lines. Ok so heres the deal... I have a Breather Valve under my Inlet Manifold at the Engine. Its Constantly sucks in air. Could I possibly use a hose, run it from the Air Valve to the Air Nipple on the rear callipers? Effectively that way, it would suck out some Brake Fluid and Air from the Rear Brake Line. Let me know if anything I said makes sense at all? PS - Yes, my brake pedal felt spongy in the last couple of days and is now completely dead with no resistance at all.
Good instructions but my issue is different, I have an 05 Wide Glide and put a 09 Fatboy wheel and fender on I collapsed the caliper by opening bleeder screw so I could center tire and rotor and bled the front brakes the way you showed but I can’t get caliper to pump up. Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks!
and im pretty sure if you have the hose submerged into a bottle of fluid you can just crank away at the lever and keep topping up reservoir. no need to close the valve
You could save $20 on the check valve rip off thing by using the bottle and hose and just elevating the bottle above the bleeder nut. Air will flow up and not down back into the system. I am surprised that pro's haven't caught onto this yet?
If your check valve doesn’t prevent it from sucking air back in then what is the point. Use a longer tube and fill the bottle 1/3 with fluid. Immerse the tube in the fluid in the bottle. No check valve and no second dude necessary.
Can you help me figure out why I have a caliper leakage problem I found a caliper leaking on the bike put new seals in it put it back on it continue to leak bought brand new calipers put them on same side of the bike the caliper leaks again with brand new calipers I'm thinking maybe I'm bleeding it wrong or doing something wrong?
since it is "one way out and no air in" it think you just have to open the valve once, pump the lever several times and observe if there are no more bubbles coming out with the fluids...put some new brake fluids...pump again...no more bubbles then close the valve...is that simple Sir?.....
I have a Yamaha FJR, the front and back brakes are combined, or linked to each other. The back brake peddal has to be pumped several times in order to work. Do I bleed this system the same way ? Any ideas why I am having this problem ?
I thought you'd first pump the lever, hold it in, then crack open the nipple to bleed, tighten nipple then release the lever. But in this video the line was cracked open before the lever was was even pulled. Is my thought of pumping the lever even before opening the nipple incorrect?
I cant find anything on changing a brake light switch. Im self diagnosing. 09 street glide. Cruise not working and btake light stays on. I figured out the light only stays on after using the rear brake. Rode 20 miles... o ly usong front and cruise worked as well as brake light normal. So i bought a rear break light switch... any help?
tommy rutledge, jr front switch is either broken or it you had the hand controls off when you put the back on with brake lever shimmed. Otherwise it will break or not seat right causing it to stay on.
The check valve is the reason you dont have to open/close the brake valve, why are you doing it? One or the other is not necessary unless the check valve does not work.
I replaced the hose from the master cylinder to the splitter on my 2001 Vstar 1100. After bleeding the brakes. I'm not getting air bubbles in the clear hose on either side, yet the lever goes right to the grip. I'm not sure what I did wrong.
No going to take a lot longer pipes have to be taken off to get to it to be able to fill up new fluid they say your supposed to change out fluid every two yrs I have never had mine done its a 2015 dyna street bob and never have my back break is the only one that feels like it could use it oh and my bike has 34,000 miles on it so I think its time to try and knock it out over 5 yrs old fluid
Flatulant Nun Yeah I got it about a day later, this was a while ago. Part of this process for the vn750 is to tie back the brake handle overnight. I don't know why but it's the only way to get full brake pressure again.
What’s the point of the one way valve if your doing it the traditional way, shouldn’t this tool be used if you don’t want to continuously open and close the bleeder
Stupid question. Your sucking out air bubbles along with the fluid. Shouldn't you too off the M/C. I believe there is a level line inside the resovoir?
+Christopher Everson Drill the top with a small drill bit. They make screw extractors, but I just hammer in a square nose screw drive, and zip it out with a drill. Works every time.
+Christopher Everson hey man i know im 8 months late but i use a dremel or a hacksaw to cut a slot in the top then take it out with a flat head hop you got it by now though
Did everything in the video. I have a hard stop on my brake lever, but it stops about 1/2” lower than before changing the front master cylinder. Do not have to pump it up, no air. Just curious before I take it out on the road.
Why do all you "experts" insist on opening and closing the bleeder screw? As long as the drain end of the hose is submerged in fluid, no air can enter the system. Just open the bleeder and pump away. The check valve is not necessary. Also, pumping the brakes before bleeding is a no-no. Any air trapped in the system will be agitated and make it harder to purge.
everyone uses a $20 piece of tube and meanwhile i've talked to multiple folks who just uses their finger and spend the $20 on beer. I'll go for the beer seeing as how even if i wanted the hose it would be over an hour drive.
Lawrenzho BB The process of replacing the brake fluid in your brakes and removing any potential air in your lines which can cause unresponsiveness, or whats usually called 'spongy' brakes.
Lawrenzho BB It’s the process of removing air from your brake lines & calipers / brake system! If your brake light flickers it must be checked out. Spongy brake feel is a good sign of air in the brake system.
Alan Whiteside .........removing air from a brake lite? Wrong........fluid has nothing to do with your brake LIGHT. But I’m trying to correct someone who can’t spell LIGHT........so .....never mind.
Casey Plooy Oh sorry I was probably half asleep when I replied on that. And I’am sure the auto spell check helped me out the wrong way again. So I corrected the mistake. Hope your happy! How about spongy brake feel that is a good sign of air in the system.
@@340rps He said bleed not flush out completely. If you ride a lot or track, then yes periodically getting any small amount of air out that could have accumulated is a good idea.
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Get more motorcycle maintenance tips on Countersteer : www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?How_to_Bleed_Motorcycle_Brakes_by_JandP_Cycles&ZMv9l7tIfMQ
Can you do a video on bleeding doul disc
Hi Patrick, I just wanted to say thanks for the super clear explanation for how to bleed breaks. You've no idea how hard I've found it to find a clear explanation coupled with a nice clean video of how to do it. I wish I'd found your channel sooner. I was going to have to get the bus to work tomorrow but now I'm riding! Cheers again to you and happy new year to all at J&P Cycles. Daryll
That is what the one way bleeder valve is for , so you don't have to close the bleeder screw every time someone let's off the break lever , this is why this tool was invented , now granted he might be just being Xtra careful not to introduce new air in the break line , but with this tool you should be able to leave the bleeder valve open on the caliper, pump the break lever being careful not to run out of fluid in the reservoir up top , keeping it filled and just make sure on the last pump to go ahead an tighten your bleeder valve screw before removing the one way valve from motion pro , just on the last step for precaution.
i that what the bleeder one way check valve is for ??? for a one man service like having those super tall bars, so he still brought in a man to work the lever for show ???
Yeah, I’ve seen some sketchy how to procedures on this channel, most are pretty awesome but some are so not how to do it. lol
@shrischeatwood9468 100%!!
If you have this one-way-flowing hose, why would you need to close the bleed screw everytime? Shouldn't the hose prevent the fluid/air from being sucked back when releasing the lever?
Its prob best practice to close valve before release. However i did it without closing and all air was removed.
okay cool thanks
vanoscrap ......you come to watch this video to learn something. Just do it the way he shows and don’t ask stupid questions. His process is exactly as H-D specifies. If there was something else in the process you needed to know, he would’ve explained it.
@@caseyplooy1696 no question is stupid when you're trying to LEARN something. You completely disregarded his question by avoiding it. Maybe you're too stupid to TEACH someone something. You seem to be in everyone comments talking out your ass even years later. If you knew how to bleed brakes, why are you watching a how-to video on it?
@@caseyplooy1696 no one wants you trolling here. piss off
you guys are awesome, looking at being a motorcycle bike mechanic and your videos show me a lot!
Nobody seems to know about One-Way/One Man bleeder vavles. They cost $5-6.00 bucks at any auto supply. I got mine at Napa. This gizmo allows fluid to exit the system but won't allow any Air to be sucked into the system. Keep the reservoir full, pump lever till you only see Clear, Clean fluid (no bubbles) then shut the brake valve. Top off the Reservoir (don't over fill) and put on cap/lid. Test ride with hard braking and check to see if you need to add fluid. Done
Have a link by chance. Guy at auto parts store was clueless.
Martin Sage .......actually everyone knows about one way valves......and then you just repeated everything else that he did in the video like we didn’t just see it done the right way in the video. I guess that’s why he works for J&P cycles and you don’t.
What's the point in using a one way check valve if you're going to manually bleed the system, the whole point of it is to keep the nipple open while you pump the lever pushing the fluid through solo.
I agree...kinda weird as the instructions for using the valve are very clear.
Intended or not I think in the way he was doing it the one way valve helped because he was opening the bleed valve before pulling the lever. If manual bleeding always pull the lever first, then open valve. When lever drops to bar hold it there and close valve. If you open valve first you risk drawing air in through it.
@@north5760 the whole point of a one way check valve is so you don't have to keep opening and closing the bleed nipple, just open it and pump the brake, make sure there is a couple of inches of fluid in the waste bottle so the pipe doesn't draw air. Simple
@@yammydodger1988 I'm aware of how a check valve works. What I'm saying is it was fortunate he had it there in the unusual manner he did it because if he didn't have it he wasn't doing the manual bleed correctly and he would have had air in the system.
Great video! Very straightforward and informative.
On a complete reservoir replacement how many “strokes” does it typically take to bleed brakes ? Last time I did it I didn’t think I’d ever get them bled
I just gravity bleed, no need to pump lever. Open the bleeder and let it drip. Keep a close eye on the res level and get it as low as possible without uncovering the outlet before adding fluid. This will keep the fresh fluid from being mixed with the old. Bleed until the fluid in the plastic line comes out clear. 1 man and a piece of cake.
Yes Sir that's the best way and the easiest I've done it that way for years
Very informative.How about the rear brake?Do we bleed it also 2x a year same with the front?
1 time every 2 yrs is more than adequate. Check your manual
How about the rear breaks? Which one should I bleed first?
Question. I am changing my bars on a 2021 road king. I am not replacing the whole brake line, just using an extension line from fat baggers Do I just pour new brake fluid in the reservoir ?
Thanks! Much easier than I thought it would be.
Hell yeah thank you for the good info..i swapped out my front break pads and got air into the line and couldnt get the air out...i drove 11/2 days with no front brakes..scary shit but its my only vehicle so i didnt really have a choice..then today after searching and watching videos i finally came across yours and got the info i needed to bleed the air out of the line correctly and without costing but only a couple bucks..thanks alot i really do appreciate it.. I subed also
Living life on the edge
wild. couldnt imagine
Doing dame now til I air out
Same
Thank you for the information.
wait, so on other videos they do this order, "pump lever, build pressure, hold lever, open valve, bleed, close valve, release lever", but you did "open valve, hold lever once, bleed, close valve, release lever" which one is right?
Guitar Demo Vlogs I’ve always pumped lever, held lever , opened valve , close valve , release lever .
SweetLowFat Jesus ....watch the video again, his process is standard.
i pump my lever every morning
Best video i have seen yet!
Very good, educational info to have.....Thanks for sharing it with us!
Educational? For what?
good detail and simple to follow 10/10
I have always seen or heard that you pump the break first, then open bleeder. Am I backwards, or can you comment why you open first and then press lever?
when you squeeze the brake the piston pushes fluid, and when you release it sucks back up, meaning the fluid sucks back into the system. hope that makes sense
Mark Thomas mo
you can forego all this dumb shit by using Russell speed bleeders.........
Thanks for the video. What about the XL1200R with two disks in front? Which one do I bleed first?
Just invest on a maintenance, manual
Wait what? Change brake fluid twice per year? Hmmm, just changing the fluid now (8-20-24) for the first time on mo 2005 Deluxe, not that the brakes were lacking though, never were. See how the new fluid goes. Thank you. Greetings from Boxford, MA
Ok this is an out of the box question.
I have a Royal Enfield Thunderbird 500. I have had this issue for a few weeks now. Air gaps into the Brake Lines, the rear Brake Lines.
Ok so heres the deal... I have a Breather Valve under my Inlet Manifold at the Engine. Its Constantly sucks in air. Could I possibly use a hose, run it from the Air Valve to the Air Nipple on the rear callipers? Effectively that way, it would suck out some Brake Fluid and Air from the Rear Brake Line.
Let me know if anything I said makes sense at all?
PS - Yes, my brake pedal felt spongy in the last couple of days and is now completely dead with no resistance at all.
Good instructions but my issue is different, I have an 05 Wide Glide and put a 09 Fatboy wheel and fender on I collapsed the caliper by opening bleeder screw so I could center tire and rotor and bled the front brakes the way you showed but I can’t get caliper to pump up. Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks!
Ty for the upload I really appreciate the clean video
for what you need valve if you close
everytime bleeding pin?)))
and im pretty sure if you have the hose submerged into a bottle of fluid you can just crank away at the lever and keep topping up reservoir. no need to close the valve
Exectly what I thinking...
You could save $20 on the check valve rip off thing by using the bottle and hose and just elevating the bottle above the bleeder nut. Air will flow up and not down back into the system. I am surprised that pro's haven't caught onto this yet?
Will this work on my CVO with abs?
the video really helped us sir. thank you so much
why not open a little & just fill reservoir as it empties ?
Too easy .... posted above.
If your check valve doesn’t prevent it from sucking air back in then what is the point. Use a longer tube and fill the bottle 1/3 with fluid. Immerse the tube in the fluid in the bottle. No check valve and no second dude necessary.
Why does one of my bike's brake handles feel mushy even AFTER the lines were bled?
You have more than one brake handle?
Anders Hjelmberg guess the sarcasm in my question didn’t translate. lol
Can you help me figure out why I have a caliper leakage problem I found a caliper leaking on the bike put new seals in it put it back on it continue to leak bought brand new calipers put them on same side of the bike the caliper leaks again with brand new calipers I'm thinking maybe I'm bleeding it wrong or doing something wrong?
since it is "one way out and no air in" it think you just have to open the valve once, pump the lever several times and observe if there are no more bubbles coming out with the fluids...put some new brake fluids...pump again...no more bubbles then close the valve...is that simple Sir?.....
I have a Yamaha FJR, the front and back brakes are combined, or linked to each other. The back brake peddal has to be pumped several times in order to work. Do I bleed this system the same way ? Any ideas why I am having this problem ?
thanks.. i had the same issue and now it's solved.. thanks again...(Y)
Followed these instructions but still have squishy front brake handle. When do you know if the master cylinder is bad? Bike is 18 years old.
When you get a squishy front brake lever.
what if you have dual front calipers? you need three people?
eventually all the air can be bled from one side.
Dose this work for cars also?
I thought you'd first pump the lever, hold it in, then crack open the nipple to bleed, tighten nipple then release the lever.
But in this video the line was cracked open before the lever was was even pulled.
Is my thought of pumping the lever even before opening the nipple incorrect?
That’s perfectly fine but you should change the title to promote the motion pro valve because otherwise it’s backwards.
I cant find anything on changing a brake light switch. Im self diagnosing. 09 street glide. Cruise not working and btake light stays on. I figured out the light only stays on after using the rear brake. Rode 20 miles... o ly usong front and cruise worked as well as brake light normal. So i bought a rear break light switch... any help?
tommy rutledge, jr front switch is either broken or it you had the hand controls off when you put the back on with brake lever shimmed. Otherwise it will break or not seat right causing it to stay on.
Is it necessary to replace the master rubber diaphragm after bleeding the brakes. I am having trouble finding that part for my 2007 Honda Shadow.
no, not unless it is torn, rotted or damaged
Hi have done the bleeding front brake but my clutch still spongee
The check valve is the reason you dont have to open/close the brake valve, why are you doing it? One or the other is not necessary unless the check valve does not work.
Brett Wendel .....you have to close the check valve anyways. Why are you asking such a stupid question?
Casey Plooy asshole
Thanks for sharing 👍
Once or twice and year??? But Harley recommends every 2 uears
That's one gorgeous dyna
I have fluid in the rear break master cylender.i have attempted to bleed the rear break 6 times but little or no fluid comes out.why
Air pocket, or collapsed line.
I replaced the hose from the master cylinder to the splitter on my 2001 Vstar 1100.
After bleeding the brakes. I'm not getting air bubbles in the clear hose on either side, yet the lever goes right to the grip.
I'm not sure what I did wrong.
djturnz ...buying a vstar is where you went wrong.
Are the back breaks the same as the front ?
No going to take a lot longer pipes have to be taken off to get to it to be able to fill up new fluid they say your supposed to change out fluid every two yrs I have never had mine done its a 2015 dyna street bob and never have my back break is the only one that feels like it could use it oh and my bike has 34,000 miles on it so I think its time to try and knock it out over 5 yrs old fluid
Delboy's Garage on here has a better video of showing how it's done proper!!
Good video
Bleed brakes once or twice a year? Did I hear that right?
he sells brake fluid.
I have a vn750. Did this without the hose on the valve and its still spongy. How important is that hose?
I'd say very. You can see when you have the new fluid coming through. And you can see if there are any bubbles going back into the system :/
Flatulant Nun
Yeah I got it about a day later, this was a while ago. Part of this process for the vn750 is to tie back the brake handle overnight. I don't know why but it's the only way to get full brake pressure again.
MrNightpwner Excellent. Happy riding. :)
What’s the point of the one way valve if your doing it the traditional way, shouldn’t this tool be used if you don’t want to continuously open and close the bleeder
Stupid question. Your sucking out air bubbles along with the fluid. Shouldn't you too off the M/C. I believe there is a level line inside the resovoir?
Top off I meant.
if you are going to show us something, please, keep the camera on that spot so we can see. it's a "how to" video.
thanks.
Great vid. 👍
HI, My bike has a dual rotor front wheel, so this has to repeated for each caliper?
+TechFanMan Yes you would need to do for both calipers to ensure that all air was removed from the system.
how can i adjust the air to gas ratio on a 388 s&s shorty carb
Great vid... will def be doing this!!!
Do what? This didn't show anything out of the norm.
my type of vid no bullshit straght to the point thank
When i did this i emptied the fluid and pulled the brake and it squirted fluid and the master cylinder was stuck can this be fixed and how?
594bolt bahahaha thats awesome
Great. Video. On. Brake. Line. Bleeding. Conan. Grizzard
Okay, but what about the rear brakes?
same process
I don't have no brakes after I ride 20f replace Master cylinder and line sitting still got brakes
Mine doesn't work well, ever hear of back bleeding?
Why not show rear break bleed ??
Not everyone has a bleeder kit
I bought a used motorcycle. The screws on the master cylinder are stripped pretty bad. Anybody have any suggestions to get past this problem?
+Christopher Everson Drill the top with a small drill bit. They make screw extractors, but I just hammer in a square nose screw drive, and zip it out with a drill. Works every time.
+Christopher Everson hey man i know im 8 months late but i use a dremel or a hacksaw to cut a slot in the top then take it out with a flat head hop you got it by now though
Hi
Did everything in the video. I have a hard stop on my brake lever, but it stops about 1/2” lower than before changing the front master cylinder. Do not have to pump it up, no air. Just curious before I take it out on the road.
Great job thanks!!
I think I need to do this. My bike just lost 90% of front brake power and the lever pulls right up to the handle meow :(
Why do all you "experts" insist on opening and closing the bleeder screw? As long as the drain end of the hose is submerged in fluid, no air can enter the system. Just open the bleeder and pump away. The check valve is not necessary. Also, pumping the brakes before bleeding is a no-no. Any air trapped in the system will be agitated and make it harder to purge.
👌
Great bike.
everyone uses a $20 piece of tube and meanwhile i've talked to multiple folks who just uses their finger and spend the $20 on beer. I'll go for the beer seeing as how even if i wanted the hose it would be over an hour drive.
what is bleeding brakes?
Lawrenzho BB
The process of replacing the brake fluid in your brakes and removing any potential air in your lines which can cause unresponsiveness, or whats usually called 'spongy' brakes.
Lawrenzho BB
It’s the process of removing air from your brake lines & calipers / brake system!
If your brake light flickers it must be checked out. Spongy brake feel is a good sign of air in the brake system.
Alan Whiteside .........removing air from a brake lite? Wrong........fluid has nothing to do with your brake LIGHT. But I’m trying to correct someone who can’t spell LIGHT........so .....never mind.
Casey Plooy
Oh sorry I was probably half asleep when I replied on that.
And I’am sure the auto spell check helped me out the wrong way again. So I corrected the mistake.
Hope your happy!
How about spongy brake feel that is a good sign of air in the system.
Now show how to do the back !
It’s the same just press back brakes and use hose on back pretty simple
@@VisualRecords620 Far from I did it and had 2 take part of my exhaust off to get to it
@@ALLofYOU2 what kinda bike you got?
@@VisualRecords620 2015 Dyna Bob I have a video on my channel showing what you have to do
@@ALLofYOU2 nice!
Mahalo 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Which Motion Pro tool is NOT made in china??
Started good got real bad real quick
once or twice a year ??????? How about every 2 years
And that is overdoing it.
@@340rps He said bleed not flush out completely. If you ride a lot or track, then yes periodically getting any small amount of air out that could have accumulated is a good idea.
You do know motercycles have a rear break dont you
The Harley pot metal reservoir is junk!
Too bad Harley can't make a decent set of breaks.
??????
Jesus loves you !
How do you know that?
Now do the rear - LOL
leeverr,,,,,, lehver is wot yur jacket is made from,,,,,lol,,,,buy a harly,buy the best,,,,,,,,,
feel asleep, to much talking.
20 mnts lol
Another company assimilated by the Borg collective.
Lets sell some that does NOTHING LMAO
make sure to label bottle, some liberal might come by and drink it
lmao that tool is useless and the way you did it is time consuming
Supertards .......actually you’re wrong and he’s right.