I liked the disclaimer and the overall presentation. Subscribing. I'm currently in the backyard combining two engines to make one.... Neighbor had a mower with a busted piston, we had one with a busted rod. I'm thinking I'll end up with a mongrel that runs better than either of them did before, and all I'm out is about $100 on parts and a brake job on the neighbor's old Ford truck in trade for his mower. I'll post a link, hopefully in a day or two, of the finished product in action. In fact, if I don't get it done today, I'll have to push mow, so the motivation is there. Thanks for a great video. Cheers!
Thanks for showing me what not to do! I build car and truck engines and they are similar in the fact that you never miss match parts like you did with the connecting rod, you could easily just taken the head off and replaced the rod , hone the cylinder put new rings on and it would have added about 60$ more in cost but would have given this engine a better chance at a longer life , I believe that rod with blow in short order. You clearly know how to rebuild and I’m surprised you cut corners that are important.
Excellent vid, replaced my 17.5 with 22 hp intek be sure to document seller, year of build and date of installation. My new engine had a problem with the decompression weight on the cam. The engine was out of warranty but because I had all the documentation including the first call to Briggs it was 100% covered by B&S! I intend to rebuild the old one, thanks!
IDK if the crankshaft was checked between centers, but I bet by how hard it was to spin, (vise grips) and destroying the bottom of the engine and how quick the spin stopped w/starter, I'd say the main journals are out of spec by 3 thousands. It may "wear in" eventually but it could seize too.
That's why you must align the timing marks correctly. If the timing gear is installed correctly and you properly align the timing marks, everything will work in unison.
IN THE PROCESS OF REBUILDING THE EXACT SAME ENGINE, SO THE VIDEO WAS VERY HELPFUL. ONLY QUESTION IS WHAT DO I SET THE VALVE CLEARANCE ON FOR THAT ENGINE. THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO JEFF WETUMPKA ALABAMA
@@prydin .003 is minimum for the intake and .007 is maximum for the exhaust. The tolerance is .003 to .005 for the intake and .005 to .007 for the exhaust for many Briggs engines, but always check the specs.
Great job! I have the same tractor and engine. I've had to replace the head gasket twice over the last ten years. I think there's a design flaw with that head.
Great video. I have identical engine with a leak by the cam on the sump (bad gasket) any chance I could seal it without splitting the sump off (maybe JB weld)?
Possibly flooding, too much fuel. Take off fuel bowl and check needle on the float. Varnish and gum can get into spring that’s inside.. the needle, this can find the push button depressed a bit on needle (making it overall shorter) then allowing float top to hit alloy casting before needle end hits brass orifice, so cannot stop inbound fuel and to correct fill height.
i just got done watching your video! it is really helpful! my first time replacing the piston rod! i got it all hooked up! My question is it suppose to pop out when turning the wheel? not sure if i did something wrong! I ordered the right part! Will it stop popping out when i put all it all back together? Thanks for doing these videos.
WELL I FINALLY FINISHED MY 17.5 HP BRIGGS IT RUNS GOOD. THANKS FOR THE HELP FROM THE VIDEO. NOW I AM WORKING ON A 21.5 V TWIN BRIGGS WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER FOR PISTON RINGS THANKS AGAIN
I put a new cam in my 15.5 HP Intek and getting ready to install on mower. The cam lobe for the intake was completely hammered and by miracle the compression relief was still attached.....but the new cam took care of all of it. I did not look at the counter balance. It felt good. I guess time will tell.
Great Job!, you make it look easy. One thing I noticed is that you use oil and I always use Assembly Lube when I rebuild engines, just my preference. kirk
the link for the engine i a briggs 19 hp motor. the motor on your rebuilt is a 17.5 hp. will the 19 hp motor fit onto the sears craftsman it 1000 lawn mower that you have???
I'm getting ready to attempt to troubleshoot/rebuilt my B&S 17.5 hp Intek. Would you be willing to be a resource for me if I have questions along the way?
Great Job! If I may I'm going a little off track here. I have 1.25 acres of pretty level ground and was wondering what size tractor I should get? such as hp's and size of cutting deck. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
+Paul Cruz I have a John Deere X300. When I purchased it new, the JD sales person told me if you have under 1 acre then you can buy the Models below the X300 and anything more than an acre you need to go with the X300 or above in model no. When people buy the lower end models at Home Depot or JD for example and cut 1 acre and plus lawns, they wonder why they burn up the rear end. The lower end models cannot handle the CONTINUOUS cutting. Then these buyers start bad mouthing brand names just because they bought the incorrect model for the job. So you can't buy a cheap model and cut your lawn and others in the neighborhood cause the machine won't handle it.
Almost any engine can handle it, but the more hp you have, the better. It's all about hours of use and longevity. I've been cutting my one acre lot with a John Deere, 16hp Kohler engine, 42 inch deck, for over 25 years. It's done a great job and held up very well. Of course, proper maintenance is a must to get the most from any power equipment.
Thanks for uploading these videos... very informative for sure. Do you use a particular website to purchase your parts? If so, would you be willing to let us know? I have a 21 hp that I'm in the process of tearing down. Also, something to think about... I watched a guy in a video use JB weld to fill a hole (like an inch or bigger) on side of his engine (16 hp I think) and it held up. Now, I can't say how long it will last because that is way out of my league. lol
Almost any oil will work just fine. As a precaution, you should turn the engine over several times to splash the engine oil on to the the moving parts before running.
Turn that music off or down. I'm repairing my friends tractor and I think it has the same problem but it's locked up and had about the same amount of oil in it almost none, don't people check their oil anymore before using their equipment! I will let you know what I find.
Just my opinion but after putting in all your labor on this engine not to replace the crank seal makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. I'm sure those that choose not to replace it will state that they inspected the used one and say it's in good shape. There doesn't have to be an obvious defect for it to leak. Better to go with replacing and have the odds in your favor.
Anyone who owns a B & S engine long enough will have the same problem. The Briggs cam is an example of really poor engineering and design. The compression relief will fail sooner or later. I'm in the process of replacing mine for the second time, along with many other parts that it destroyed. Meanwhile, my old J.D. with a Kohler engine has been running strong, without any major problems, for over 25 years.
Loved the paint gasket trick. Makes a lot of sense.
I watch these videos but never comment. Thanks alot man, great video. Couldn't have done it without you
FINISHED WATCHING YOUR VIDEO AND WILL BE REASSEMBLING MY ENGINE TOMORROW. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP JEFF WETUMPKA AL
All that work and now you're keeping the old seal ??
I liked the disclaimer and the overall presentation. Subscribing. I'm currently in the backyard combining two engines to make one.... Neighbor had a mower with a busted piston, we had one with a busted rod. I'm thinking I'll end up with a mongrel that runs better than either of them did before, and all I'm out is about $100 on parts and a brake job on the neighbor's old Ford truck in trade for his mower. I'll post a link, hopefully in a day or two, of the finished product in action. In fact, if I don't get it done today, I'll have to push mow, so the motivation is there. Thanks for a great video. Cheers!
Thanks for showing me what not to do! I build car and truck engines and they are similar in the fact that you never miss match parts like you did with the connecting rod, you could easily just taken the head off and replaced the rod , hone the cylinder put new rings on and it would have added about 60$ more in cost but would have given this engine a better chance at a longer life , I believe that rod with blow in short order. You clearly know how to rebuild and I’m surprised you cut corners that are important.
Excellent job on the rebuild. I rebuild 4-speed transmissions on the side, mainly Muncie's and it's just as meticulous.
Excellent vid, replaced my 17.5 with 22 hp intek be sure to document seller, year of build and date of installation. My new engine had a problem with the decompression weight on the cam. The engine was out of warranty but because I had all the documentation including the first call to Briggs it was 100% covered by B&S! I intend to rebuild the old one, thanks!
I have to tell you that you make great videos! Very informative and detailed for sure. Thank you for taking the time to do this!!!
May be a bit late, but you want .006 for the exhaust and .004 for the intake
Oil on sump bolts? Loctite or permatex thread locker is what is needed. Oil is the opposite.
Yea I think he is not a mechanic and the rod cap switch surprised me very much
Hi my engine nor wery good white smoke coming out, what I need to do
DW6 how about an update on this project?
I'd like to know how well this engine held up?
Good job thanks for the show, I got my motor a part . Needed the torque specks so thanks again and have a great day.
Usually always replace both oil crank seals before assy
IDK if the crankshaft was checked between centers, but I bet by how hard it was to spin, (vise grips) and destroying the bottom of the engine and how quick the spin stopped w/starter, I'd say the main journals are out of spec by 3 thousands. It may "wear in" eventually but it could seize too.
great video same tractor with 21 twin Briggs also have old school snapper restoring has a 14.5 single cylinder
Another great vid to start the day of removing tree stumps!
Did you take your carburetor apart and clean it and put it back together with nice clean fresh gasoline?
Would it be possible to convert this engine to horizontal shaft?
Do you have a book on the torque specs or a page you can send or link to one
Just Google search your engine number and specs. Briggs Stratton has all their specs listed on their website.
Very clean setup, when timing the valve to the crankshaft you did not mention the position of the piston???
That's why you must align the timing marks correctly. If the timing gear is installed correctly and you properly align the timing marks, everything will work in unison.
ok you got all the bolts to sump in what do you do if you find one that wont go in first time this happened??
Sometimes I try switching bolts, it has worked.
IN THE PROCESS OF REBUILDING THE EXACT SAME ENGINE, SO THE VIDEO WAS VERY HELPFUL. ONLY QUESTION IS WHAT DO I SET THE VALVE CLEARANCE ON FOR THAT ENGINE. THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO JEFF WETUMPKA ALABAMA
0.003" for the intake, 0.007" for the exhaust.
@@prydin .003 is minimum for the intake and .007 is maximum for the exhaust. The tolerance is .003 to .005 for the intake and .005 to .007 for the exhaust for many Briggs engines, but always check the specs.
Great job! I have the same tractor and engine. I've had to replace the head gasket twice over the last ten years. I think there's a design flaw with that head.
Great video. I have identical engine with a leak by the cam on the sump (bad gasket) any chance I could seal it without splitting the sump off (maybe JB weld)?
Will the engine run without the governor?
It sure would. The governor controls the rpm's without it .. boom
what engine can I pull a used piston out of from this engine?
Look up the part number for the piston, then you can cross reference it with others. Many Briggs engines use the same parts.
Mine is blowing black smoke and suffering extremely loss of power any clues?
Possibly flooding, too much fuel.
Take off fuel bowl and check needle on the float.
Varnish and gum can get into spring that’s inside.. the needle, this can find the push button depressed a bit on needle (making it overall shorter) then allowing float top to hit alloy casting before needle end hits brass orifice, so cannot stop inbound fuel and to correct fill height.
Head gasket
i just got done watching your video! it is really helpful! my first time replacing the piston rod! i got it all hooked up! My question is it suppose to pop out when turning the wheel? not sure if i did something wrong! I ordered the right part! Will it stop popping out when i put all it all back together? Thanks for doing these videos.
You put a cam in that has a slot in it is it not for a oil pump mower ? Hank
I noticed tgst c.f. too Henry murawski guess it works too
Briggs changed all replacement cams to ones with oil pump slots with or without an oil pump.
WELL I FINALLY FINISHED MY 17.5 HP BRIGGS IT RUNS GOOD. THANKS FOR THE HELP FROM THE VIDEO. NOW I AM WORKING ON A 21.5 V TWIN BRIGGS WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER FOR PISTON RINGS THANKS AGAIN
Just Google your engine number for parts list. There are many such sites on line with schematics of your engine that show part numbers.
I put a new cam in my 15.5 HP Intek and getting ready to install on mower. The cam lobe for the intake was completely hammered and by miracle the compression relief was still attached.....but the new cam took care of all of it. I did not look at the counter balance. It felt good. I guess time will tell.
Great Job!, you make it look easy. One thing I noticed is that you use oil and I always use Assembly Lube when I rebuild engines, just my preference. kirk
nice job hope mine turns out that way needed the tourqe # s that sounds pretty good
Here is a link to Briggs & Stratton torque specifications:
www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine%20Specifications%20Chart_ms3992.pdf
the link for the engine i a briggs 19 hp motor. the motor on your rebuilt is a 17.5 hp. will the 19 hp motor fit onto the sears craftsman it 1000 lawn mower that you have???
I should be an exact fit. Doublecheck the crankshaft length and diameter.
Yes
what website or where did u buy the engine parts for the engine
Jesse Rodriguex w
Jesse Rodriguex where can I get cam and oilslinger for 17.5 Intek Beggs.can you help me with used parts
I'm getting ready to attempt to troubleshoot/rebuilt my B&S 17.5 hp Intek. Would you be willing to be a resource for me if I have questions along the way?
Good job. Thank you ! You have a new subscriber
Do you have a way I can message you and send pictures of a problem I have that way I can see if I can figure out how to fix it?
Great Job!
If I may I'm going a little off track here.
I have 1.25 acres of pretty level ground and was wondering what size tractor I should get?
such as hp's and size of cutting deck.
Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
+Paul Cruz I have a John Deere X300. When I purchased it new, the JD sales person told me if you have under 1 acre then you can buy the Models below the X300 and anything more than an acre you need to go with the X300 or above in model no. When people buy the lower end models at Home Depot or JD for example and cut 1 acre and plus lawns, they wonder why they burn up the rear end. The lower end models cannot handle the CONTINUOUS cutting. Then these buyers start bad mouthing brand names just because they bought the incorrect model for the job. So you can't buy a cheap model and cut your lawn and others in the neighborhood cause the machine won't handle it.
Almost any engine can handle it, but the more hp you have, the better. It's all about hours of use and longevity. I've been cutting my one acre lot with a John Deere, 16hp Kohler engine, 42 inch deck, for over 25 years. It's done a great job and held up very well. Of course, proper maintenance is a must to get the most from any power equipment.
Good video I hope that's what is wrong mine.Glad I look it up seems pretty easy,thanks for info
Peacedog
Clicked on link for the engine...
"Sorry, we couldn't find that page" 😢
Good job man !
Thanks for uploading these videos... very informative for sure. Do you use a particular website to purchase your parts? If so, would you be willing to let us know? I have a 21 hp that I'm in the process of tearing down. Also, something to think about... I watched a guy in a video use JB weld to fill a hole (like an inch or bigger) on side of his engine (16 hp I think) and it held up. Now, I can't say how long it will last because that is way out of my league. lol
Yoestoi arreglando uno qui erosaber lacali brasion depunterias ypoque seque Bro la bariya de balansies
Nice don't forget to Oil the tappets as well.. should use assembly lube. Its a special oil with a tachy viscosity. Sorta Like 140 gear oil
Almost any oil will work just fine. As a precaution, you should turn the engine over several times to splash the engine oil on to the the moving parts before running.
thanks...
not any more $1,200! crazy prices, you can buy a nice used little car with the prices of these new riding lawn mowers today!
Turn the radio down great job
Turn that music off or down. I'm repairing my friends tractor and I think it has the same problem but it's locked up and had about the same amount of oil in it almost none, don't people check their oil anymore before using their equipment!
I will let you know what I find.
for some reason people dont check or change oil in mowers..no idea why
the best fix for these motors is replace with a krowler.
tradução em português
Most used parts are to high on eBay now, I buy mostly new parts from China, no problem with them..
Thank you I have the KOHLER. COURAGE SV470-SV620 I GOING TO get THE 17.5.single cylinder.not going to Overall.
change that nikki style carb out!
Just my opinion but after putting in all your labor on this engine not to replace the crank seal makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. I'm sure those that choose not to replace it will state that they inspected the used one and say it's in good shape. There doesn't have to be an obvious defect for it to leak. Better to go with replacing and have the odds in your favor.
ps nice video!
You do a manly thing like rebuild an engine and then I catch you listening to gay ass department store music. STOP IT!
Good video very informative had same problem with My mower 👍👍
Anyone who owns a B & S engine long enough will have the same problem. The Briggs cam is an example of really poor engineering and design. The compression relief will fail sooner or later. I'm in the process of replacing mine for the second time, along with many other parts that it destroyed. Meanwhile, my old J.D. with a Kohler engine has been running strong, without any major problems, for over 25 years.