I've been watching videos all day looking for this EXACT same engine and how to install push rods and set proper valve gaps. Geez there are a bunch of guys doing it wrong and giving bad information out there on TH-cam. YOU SIR are NOT one of them! Great video! This is now my GOTO video for any complete tear-down and rebuild of these OHV Briggs and Stratton's. Thanks for the VERY thorough and proper explanation! Yes I will Like and Subscribe!
Well done Frank. Another "well tuned" machine. Thanks for showing the "quick way out" option. My neighbors LT 1000 "could" have this same dilemma. Appreciate the internal views. Really helps. (Thanks for watching!) :)
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Fairly sure I have the same valve seat issue with my 28U707. Thought about buying a new head assembly, but have decided to try the peening first. This is all new territory for me so I'm more than a little nervous about it. Haha. Think I'll watch your fine video again then start on it. You have given me a bit of confidence and I thank you for that.
Your welcome! I hear ya, yeah I would probably try to stake it first, if it doesn't hold then maybe a new head will be the best option, but i'd try it first. Got nothing to loose. Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!
Great video..thick southern accent but pretty much understood everything...Damned 10% ethanol fuel screws up everything in the fuel system! It's always a good idea to put a petcock on the fuel line and just shut it off and let the motor run out of fuel when you're done mowing.. Otherwise your needle valve on the float in the carb wont seat properly with all the corrosion and you'll either have fuel leaking out the exhaust or get gas in the crankcase!! I had gas in the crankcase and it caused all kinds of weird problems. Thought I blew a head gasket with all the smoke until I started taking it apart and gas was leaking out of the head. Now I have to put the head back on and take the carb apart, so I decided to just clean up the head, valves, and piston, and replace the needle valve and seat on the carb. Hopefully it will run again!
I just got a JD lawn mower that has the same engine as this one. Some strange reason cylinder block crankcase has a crack on it. Leaks oil when i try to start it. I ordered the crankcase and head gasket hoping there is no major problem with the inside the engine. Btw first time I'll be taking an engine a part. I am so excited. Thanks for the video it's so helpful!
Great job. Was hoping to see the ROD removed. Mine was broke and wanted to see it replaced, which way is up and down. And on the piston. Mine isn't STEPPED just flat with numbers.
Good vid. In my experience be sure to only drive that oil pan crank seal down as deep as originally was because if u drive it down too far u will block the oil port that keeps seal lubed. It will fail n leak soon. Also be careful not to roll the seal turn the crank a little as sump pan slids in seated. But it prolly "aint got no gas"
Thank you for instruction. I have BS 18.5 hp that continues to flood the oil. New carb and have adjusted valves several times. Did compression test it says it have compression 140 or so. I lost at this point, still won’t start and run.
I have the same motor in my Craftsman LT2000 riding mower. The mower has stopped charging the battery. When i tested the voltage coming from the stater, i get about 29volts. I cant seem to find a voltage regulator, so im at a loss as to what to replace. any advice?
There are diodes built into the wires coming from under the wheel (from the stater) if its bad it will put out some odd voltage, usually ac too. you can either cut the plug off and wire in a diode and hard wire it back to the harness or get a new stater and pull the flywheel to install it. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 very good video. Glad i found it. I tested the voltage DC coming off of the diode red wire and it read 17volts while unplugged. The moment i plugged it in, it would drop to 12.4vdc which was the exact voltage of the batteries current charge.
I recently bought a Murray with the same engine, but I think he's loose on the crankshaft or rod foot because it makes a strange noise... is there any way to know without opening?
Great Video! I just purchased a Craftsman DLT 3000 mower with this same motor. The carburetor had been cleaned and rebuilt. The motor was still surging, backing, and popping some. The only way to smooth it out is to partially choke. I took the carburetor a part and really didn’t find any issues. I’m now thinking it isn’t the right carburetor for this engine, someone has definitely removed the fuel shutoff solenoid and cut the connector from harness. Do you by chance know the p/n of correct carburetor for this 18.5 hp engine? Thanks!
Great 2 part video! This is the same motor that I have & I am trying to figure out how to test the charging system on it. All of the videos that I have found so far seem to have a different configuration than this one. I am going to keep looking, but do you have any videos on this type of charging system?
Thanks! I do not have a video on the charging system, there should be 1 or 2 wires coming out on the starter side, there is a diode made into the wire on the charging circuit, at full throttle it should be putting out 12-14 volts dc. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a 31P777 that came to me overheated. The plastic intake was melted at the block, pushrod guides were gone, and the head gasket had failed After I put it back together the rocker studs would not stay tight. Eventually I swapped the head. After a few months of use it started burning oil. I have not torn it down but I suspect the rings lost their tension due to the overheating.
I hear ya. I hope this won't happen to this one, I started to order new rings for it but didn't, i put it back as a spare so i hope that doesn't happen! Thanks for Watching!!!
@@mohmedhosny6094 You're saying you adjust it and then lock it with the torx screw. It runs for awhile then the rockers are loose again? Have you checked the pushrods?
It may be running to lean or there is a air leak somewhere. Try to adjust the carb a little richer. And make sure the plastic fan fins are in good shape and the cooling fins on the block are clean. Thanks for Watching!!!
I've had head temperature and exhaust temps over 500 degrees, block temps are usually around 250 or so. Its higher then say a water cooled car engine but not a huge difference. Thanks for Watching!!!
Yeah, as long as nothing is turned it will go right back together. but you may need to rotate the crank to get the marks to line up, etc. Thanks for Watching!!!
It was leaking oil from the drain plug for some reason, it leaked oil out in my garage floor after I pulled it off the frame from making this video. I guess the plug just wasn't sealing for some reason. Thanks for Watching!!!
It should be the exact same engine, if the model starts with 31 it is more than likely identical. Briggs is know for exaggerating HP ratings! I've seen these model 31 range from 15.5 to like 19.5 hp ratings, same engine! Thanks for Watching!
STP: Everybody who remembers Andy Granatelli in a trench coat, walking out of the fog at the Brickyard, holding out a can of STP on a black and white TV, raise your hand.....(if your arthritis still lets you get that active ! )
At the beginning of part one he said he believed a bolt holding down the plastic cooling fin ring came loose, allowing the block to overheat and the fin to melt against the block .
what philod902 said, i think the plastic fins somehow worked loose and whoever was running didn't know it and nearly burnt it up. Thanks for Watching!!!
alrighty, .005"-.007" for intake valve, .009"-.011" for exhaust valve, .010" for coil-flywheel gap, 185" lbs (all in inch pounds) for head bolts, if both rod bolts are the same length then both are 185" lbs, if different, short one first at 160" lbs then long one at 260" pounds, oil sump bolts: if they have a washer then 140"lbs, if the washer is made into the bolt (flange type) then 200"lbs, and the crankshaft end play is .002" to .023", as long as it moves some it will be fine. i think thats everything.
I do have rebuild videos on other briggs, including a model 28 ohv, 14.5hp along with several of the older flatheads, but when the time comes to rebuild one of these i will definitely make a video on it! Thanks for Watching!!!
I have painted some, I rebuilt a 12hp briggs a few years ago and painted it up and a few others. I usually get in a hurry and just want to get it running haha Thanks for Watching!!!
I've been watching videos all day looking for this EXACT same engine and how to install push rods and set proper valve gaps. Geez there are a bunch of guys doing it wrong and giving bad information out there on TH-cam. YOU SIR are NOT one of them! Great video! This is now my GOTO video for any complete tear-down and rebuild of these OHV Briggs and Stratton's. Thanks for the VERY thorough and proper explanation! Yes I will Like and Subscribe!
Yes there are. He has good vids. . Taryl fixes all is a good channel too
@@markjohnson7508 I watch Taryl as well. He does add entertainment to the mundane!
Thank you for the video. As a novice these types of videos help educate me so I can repair myself. Well done.
I Am not a mechanic but with this tutorial and my curiosity about it am ready to repair my riding lawn mower engine thank you
Well done Frank. Another "well tuned" machine. Thanks for showing the "quick way out" option. My neighbors LT 1000 "could" have this same dilemma. Appreciate the internal views. Really helps. (Thanks for watching!) :)
Appreciate that! I hear ya, hopefully its not as bad as this, and yes thanks for watching lol
Wasn't boring me! I wish you had shown it all best video of take down and repair I've seen yet . thanks it was very helpful.
I hear ya, didn't want to show to much or make to long of a video! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Fairly sure I have the same valve seat issue with my 28U707. Thought about buying a new head assembly, but have decided to try the peening first. This is all new territory for me so I'm more than a little nervous about it. Haha. Think I'll watch your fine video again then start on it. You have given me a bit of confidence and I thank you for that.
Your welcome! I hear ya, yeah I would probably try to stake it first, if it doesn't hold then maybe a new head will be the best option, but i'd try it first. Got nothing to loose. Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!
Thank for all specs wallace gardner you made my day look better
Great video..thick southern accent but pretty much understood everything...Damned 10% ethanol fuel screws up everything in the fuel system! It's always a good idea to put a petcock on the fuel line and just shut it off and let the motor run out of fuel when you're done mowing.. Otherwise your needle valve on the float in the carb wont seat properly with all the corrosion and you'll either have fuel leaking out the exhaust or get gas in the crankcase!! I had gas in the crankcase and it caused all kinds of weird problems. Thought I blew a head gasket with all the smoke until I started taking it apart and gas was leaking out of the head. Now I have to put the head back on and take the carb apart, so I decided to just clean up the head, valves, and piston, and replace the needle valve and seat on the carb. Hopefully it will run again!
Thanks! Yeah I get that alot haha oh yes, it really does big time. Thats the best thing to do. Thanks for Watching!!!
You made a great video!!!!! I love those Briggs&Stratton motors , been around for as long as I can remember!!!!!
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Good job I learned something, how to fix my motor like that one you just did have a good one. Ps thanks for showing it .
these two videos are very well done. thank you
Appreciate that, glad to help out. Thanks for Watching!!!
I just got a JD lawn mower that has the same engine as this one. Some strange reason cylinder block crankcase has a crack on it. Leaks oil when i try to start it. I ordered the crankcase and head gasket hoping there is no major problem with the inside the engine. Btw first time I'll be taking an engine a part. I am so excited. Thanks for the video it's so helpful!
Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Awesome glad it started and seems to be a good motor after all! Great 2 part video!
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Great job. Was hoping to see the ROD removed. Mine was broke and wanted to see it replaced, which way is up and down. And on the piston. Mine isn't STEPPED just flat with numbers.
Hey frank, great job on that 18 horse briggs. Would love to see a video on some of the anti vibration systems. Take care.
Next time i work on one I'll do a video on it, or i might tear this one down sometime to make a video. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video . i recently found your videos and love them and subscribed looking forward to viewing them all thanks for your time
Thanks. Appreciate the sub! thanks for watching!!!
Great video sir! 👍👍👍
I was hoping part 2 was going to go up tonight. :)
I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Yes sir ! Turned out pretty good. Thumbs-up Frank.
Thanks man, appreciate it! Thanks for Watching!!!
Good vid. In my experience be sure to only drive that oil pan crank seal down as deep as originally was because if u drive it down too far u will block the oil port that keeps seal lubed. It will fail n leak soon. Also be careful not to roll the seal turn the crank a little as sump pan slids in seated.
But it prolly "aint got no gas"
Thank you for instruction. I have BS 18.5 hp that continues to flood the oil. New carb and have adjusted valves several times. Did compression test it says it have compression 140 or so. I lost at this point, still won’t start and run.
If its flooding then the needle/seat are leaking.
I have the same motor in my Craftsman LT2000 riding mower. The mower has stopped charging the battery. When i tested the voltage coming from the stater, i get about 29volts. I cant seem to find a voltage regulator, so im at a loss as to what to replace. any advice?
There are diodes built into the wires coming from under the wheel (from the stater) if its bad it will put out some odd voltage, usually ac too. you can either cut the plug off and wire in a diode and hard wire it back to the harness or get a new stater and pull the flywheel to install it. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 very good video. Glad i found it.
I tested the voltage DC coming off of the diode red wire and it read 17volts while unplugged. The moment i plugged it in, it would drop to 12.4vdc which was the exact voltage of the batteries current charge.
I recently bought a Murray with the same engine, but I think he's loose on the crankshaft or rod foot because it makes a strange noise... is there any way to know without opening?
Great Video!
I just purchased a Craftsman DLT 3000 mower with this same motor. The carburetor had been cleaned and rebuilt. The motor was still surging, backing, and popping some. The only way to smooth it out is to partially choke. I took the carburetor a part and really didn’t find any issues. I’m now thinking it isn’t the right carburetor for this engine, someone has definitely removed the fuel shutoff solenoid and cut the connector from harness. Do you by chance know the p/n of correct carburetor for this 18.5 hp engine?
Thanks!
Great 2 part video! This is the same motor that I have & I am trying to figure out how to test the charging system on it. All of the videos that I have found so far seem to have a different configuration than this one. I am going to keep looking, but do you have any videos on this type of charging system?
Thanks! I do not have a video on the charging system, there should be 1 or 2 wires coming out on the starter side, there is a diode made into the wire on the charging circuit, at full throttle it should be putting out 12-14 volts dc. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a 31P777 that came to me overheated. The plastic intake was melted at the block, pushrod guides were gone, and the head gasket had failed After I put it back together the rocker studs would not stay tight. Eventually I swapped the head. After a few months of use it started burning oil. I have not torn it down but I suspect the rings lost their tension due to the overheating.
I hear ya. I hope this won't happen to this one, I started to order new rings for it but didn't, i put it back as a spare so i hope that doesn't happen! Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi
I need your support
What can i do if bolt and valve rocker arm loosing after adjustment and compression become too heavy
Check the rocker arm studs.
@@bobsoft checked
@@mohmedhosny6094 You're saying you adjust it and then lock it with the torx screw. It runs for awhile then the rockers are loose again? Have you checked the pushrods?
Hey guitar I've just recently put new cam new head gasket new carb in 17.5 briggs now it runs extremely hot what can be wrong
It may be running to lean or there is a air leak somewhere. Try to adjust the carb a little richer. And make sure the plastic fan fins are in good shape and the cooling fins on the block are clean. Thanks for Watching!!!
Some what is the operating temperature of a air cooled engine
I've had head temperature and exhaust temps over 500 degrees, block temps are usually around 250 or so. Its higher then say a water cooled car engine but not a huge difference. Thanks for Watching!!!
Nice you make it look easy.
Thanks, haha i hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
if U wanted to check the timing, but not mess w/ the oil pump, is it ok to leave the oil pump together when you re-assemble?
Yeah, as long as nothing is turned it will go right back together. but you may need to rotate the crank to get the marks to line up, etc. Thanks for Watching!!!
Can you do a complete video on a 20 hp Briggs and Stratton engine that has an oil pump?,its a single cylinder briggs engine
Next time I work on one I will for sure, this is the only one i have like that right now. Thanks for Watching!
what would 18.5 w0uld cost and how would you get the pul off
Timing Gear & Pulley Puller.
At the end of the video, what's leaking from under the starter?
It was leaking oil from the drain plug for some reason, it leaked oil out in my garage floor after I pulled it off the frame from making this video. I guess the plug just wasn't sealing for some reason. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey I have a question you might be able to awnser. I'm putting at b&s 18hp
Are the torque specs the same for all 31 engines even if its a 16hp, 17.5, and 19?
Yes! Briggs was bad about that, they are all the same engine! Thanks for Watching!!!
Good video. ...I'm curious if the 17.5 hp use the same crankcase and head gasket?
It should be the exact same engine, if the model starts with 31 it is more than likely identical. Briggs is know for exaggerating HP ratings! I've seen these model 31 range from 15.5 to like 19.5 hp ratings, same engine! Thanks for Watching!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 thankyou so much and thankyou for your videos I enjoyed them and is helping me with any blown briggs.
Your welcome!
Nice job
Thanks for Watching!!!
I just had the fan break up on my 19.5 hp. Was you able to use one off of an older engine with no problem?
yes, it bolted right on, but the screen mount is different and will have a screen off a older engine, without doing some mods. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 Thanks. I found one off of a 17.5 and it seems to be fine. The original one was quite flimsy to my opinion!
STP: Everybody who remembers Andy Granatelli in a trench coat, walking out of the fog at the Brickyard, holding out a can of STP on a black and white TV, raise your hand.....(if your arthritis still lets you get that active ! )
Thanks for Watching!!!
How did it overheat in the first place?
At the beginning of part one he said he believed a bolt holding down the plastic cooling fin ring came loose, allowing the block to overheat and the fin to melt against the block .
what philod902 said, i think the plastic fins somehow worked loose and whoever was running didn't know it and nearly burnt it up. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for Watching!!!
I just started my first 12 hp braggs rebuild for my ridering mower
I hear ya! They are great engines! Thanks for Watching!!!
valve clearance and all torque specs for this engine
alrighty, .005"-.007" for intake valve, .009"-.011" for exhaust valve, .010" for coil-flywheel gap, 185" lbs (all in inch pounds) for head bolts, if both rod bolts are the same length then both are 185" lbs, if different, short one first at 160" lbs then long one at 260" pounds, oil sump bolts: if they have a washer then 140"lbs, if the washer is made into the bolt (flange type) then 200"lbs, and the crankshaft end play is .002" to .023", as long as it moves some it will be fine. i think thats everything.
fly wheel nut, cylinder head,piston rod, sump cover torque specs wallace thank you
Good save tgere guitar runs great
Thanks for Watching!!!
Id like to see a video on tear down n a rebuild
I do have rebuild videos on other briggs, including a model 28 ohv, 14.5hp along with several of the older flatheads, but when the time comes to rebuild one of these i will definitely make a video on it! Thanks for Watching!!!
do you ever paint engines
I have painted some, I rebuilt a 12hp briggs a few years ago and painted it up and a few others. I usually get in a hurry and just want to get it running haha Thanks for Watching!!!
one last thing fly wheel nut torque
your welcome, the flywheel nut is 85 foot pounds.
1/4 inch past TDC is to account for the compression release.
Yes. I always set them at TDC and they seem to work good. Thanks for Watching!!!
I see people rebuild and never paint
I hear ya, you won't like the engine in my latest video haha If i had more time i would have painted it for sure.