Great work, very informative video as well. I've been fascinated with how wooden screws and associated nuts were made in the 17th century, think I'll give this a try. Thanks for posting.
Well done. I've been hoping to whittle some threaded handle ends for broom heads for months. The retired maintenance supervisor showed me some of his handiwork years ago but it went over the head of someone who didn't even keep his knife sharp. Well, I have a sharp knife and intend to keep it honed and I want to refit some broom heads. I didn't fully grasp all that you did here but I saved your video for future reference. Using two cutters was a good move. Thanks.
Hei Daniel! Thank you for this video which has been quite inspiring me for my own Tap and Die project! I really like to see on your other videos, that it has been in use afterwards.
Thanks! For what you are making now i suggest you read richard starr's article "wood threads". If you can't find it, email me and i'll send it to you. anies98 gmail
For at 1:16 / 4:38 If you cannot hold the tool perpendicular to the surface, use a bell-shaped guide with a hole corresponding to the diameter of the tool shank.
Gratulálok, Argentinábol, (Puerto Madryn, Chubut Megye). Éppen facsavarra van szűkségem de sajnos nincs olyan műhely mely a megfelelö szerszamot tudna késziteni. Majd valahogyan én mágam tudok eggyet késziteni... Tisztelettel Attila
Thank you. The first cutter I did not sharpen it properly (like a V gouge) but I did not know. After I did the second it did not work so I deduced that I did not sharpen the cutter properly. After I sharpened it properly it worked with one but I thought it should work better with two knives (pre-cutter). I hope it was helpful I made myself clear (sorry my English).
@@ucenicul yea, make room. I did without for a long long time but wanted one. One day I was drilling at a sort of odd angle in a piece of metal. The bit grabbed and twisted my hand/wrist at a painfull point. My wrist had been broken badly 20 years ago. The pain was terrible and I thought I had broken it again. Luckily I didnt but I said that's it, no more free hand drilling. In a week I had a near new 10 inch table top drill. since then drilling has been a pleasure. Course if you dont need a drill at all, disregard !
16mm (0.6299 of an inch) is 5/8 of an inch (0.6250 of an inch) In wood 0.0049 of an inch (0.12446mm) is a negligible amount. Especially when it comes to a hole you're just going to tap. It may be a 1% difference in thread depth?
@@ucenicul common metric sizes are popular because their US customary counterparts are. 8mm=5/16, 10mm~3/8, 13mm=1/2, 16mm=5/8, 19mm=3/4. Or close enough. To be fair, you have to have a very high IQ to appreciate duodecimal.
You think they are like twins? Then you need glasses lol the original has a narrower angle to the tread. Most wooden threads here in England were based on the Whitworth pattern but with a 5 degree wider angle (Whitworth was 55 degs, and most English wood threads were around 60 degrees) your original thread seems to be around 60 but the cutters you made seem to be a lot nearer 90 degrees. When you compare the two you can see the new thread is wider at the base than the original, but of course, if the external thread matches the internal, that's all that matters really. I used to be a church organ builder, and on old organs the boards with the holes to hold the pipes upright ( called Rack boards) were held up above the wind hole board (" Upper boards) by about 6 inched by what were called Rack Pillars and these were some 7 and a half inches long turned with a shoulder at each end and threaded on either end. One end screwed into theupperboard and the other had a hexagonal nut also made of wood, usually made from boxwood as it's dense and hard, takes a thread really well and does not break easily. and on restoration work apprentices had to sometimes re cut the threads on the rack pillars with a smaller die made for the purpose along with making new nuts using the same size tap as the smaller thread. If tooth ends of the rack pillar threads were damaged then completely new pillars were made but they were bought in from elsewhere.
Thanks for the information, very useful. The tap was made by a metal lathe, but not by me, I just fit the die. Paul Hammer has a video where he describes very nicely how he makes screws for reproductions.
I agree but you can be a bit more polite. It makes TH-cam more pleasant for everyone 🤓 Daniel otherwise I found the video very informative.. Thank you for that 👍
The little wisps of smoke after you use the metal tap is always interesting in how hot they get.
Great work, very informative video as well. I've been fascinated with how wooden screws and associated nuts were made in the 17th century, think I'll give this a try.
Thanks for posting.
Tom Baker thank you
Awesome😮...a good job. 👏👏👏👏👏
Well done! Great job
Great job! Thanks for sharing!
Well done. I've been hoping to whittle some threaded handle ends for broom heads for months. The retired maintenance supervisor showed me some of his handiwork years ago but it went over the head of someone who didn't even keep his knife sharp. Well, I have a sharp knife and intend to keep it honed and I want to refit some broom heads. I didn't fully grasp all that you did here but I saved your video for future reference. Using two cutters was a good move. Thanks.
The geometry of cutter is critical, search Paul Hamler video where he sharpened
Excellent work.
Very nice! Thank you.
Pure genius !!!
I like the music…..pleasant!
Hei Daniel!
Thank you for this video which has been quite inspiring me for my own Tap and Die project!
I really like to see on your other videos, that it has been in use afterwards.
Thanks! For what you are making now i suggest you read richard starr's article "wood threads". If you can't find it, email me and i'll send it to you. anies98 gmail
Yes, i have read this article and it has been very helpful.
Thank you for your offer!
Nice work!
can be even better
Awesome
Szuper!
Thanks for entering #TOOLMake17. Great build!
Brilliant :) ॐ
so cool! does the bar "pull" itself in? i cant imagine how, when you begin with the first turn, all it does is a circular cut?
Yes, pull it self
Pozdrawiam serdecznie i życzę miłego dnia
For at 1:16 / 4:38 If you cannot hold the tool perpendicular to the surface, use a bell-shaped guide with a hole corresponding to the diameter of the tool shank.
Thank you, good tip
Gratulálok, Argentinábol, (Puerto Madryn, Chubut Megye). Éppen facsavarra van szűkségem de sajnos nincs olyan műhely mely a megfelelö szerszamot tudna késziteni. Majd valahogyan én mágam tudok eggyet késziteni... Tisztelettel Attila
fain video !
Very nice. Why didn’t the one blade work? Kinda confusing using the two. If first blade didn’t work and you made second blade cutter, why the two?
Thank you. The first cutter I did not sharpen it properly (like a V gouge) but I did not know. After I did the second it did not work so I deduced that I did not sharpen the cutter properly. After I sharpened it properly it worked with one but I thought it should work better with two knives (pre-cutter). I hope it was helpful I made myself clear (sorry my English).
Daniel Szekely your English is very good, I understand now thank you.
Great, but if we don't have that big iron thread making tool in the first place then how do we make a thread box 🤔🤗👍
th-cam.com/video/Ci4POSt6n6o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UWMSWnpxawa7osAS like that
How to make cutters?
Good idea, I will make a video this spring
Drill press can help in making straight cuts.
no room
@@ucenicul yea, make room. I did without for a long long time but wanted one. One day I was drilling at a sort of odd angle in a piece of metal. The bit grabbed and twisted my hand/wrist at a painfull point. My wrist had been broken badly 20 years ago. The pain was terrible and I thought I had broken it again. Luckily I didnt but I said that's it, no more free hand drilling. In a week I had a near new 10 inch table top drill. since then drilling has been a pleasure. Course if you dont need a drill at all, disregard !
If you want to reduce the chipping on the threads use coconut oil (the lard looking substance) while cutting.
Thanks, I will try
Genio
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice project :D
Good luck on the #TOOLMake17
Obrigado(Thanks)
16mm (0.6299 of an inch) is 5/8 of an inch (0.6250 of an inch) In wood 0.0049 of an inch (0.12446mm) is a negligible amount. Especially when it comes to a hole you're just going to tap. It may be a 1% difference in thread depth?
Thanks
@@ucenicul common metric sizes are popular because their US customary counterparts are. 8mm=5/16, 10mm~3/8, 13mm=1/2, 16mm=5/8, 19mm=3/4. Or close enough. To be fair, you have to have a very high IQ to appreciate duodecimal.
How do U get the cutting tips ?
mba2ceo I used this video th-cam.com/video/V8IX3FDcSYs/w-d-xo.html, or search on you tube Mary May sharpening v chiesel
Are there sold anywhere yet.
There are wood țap and dies set for sale at specialty stores, but I did this for myself
wow
Do you sell these?
No, I am using it
esti din cluj? vad manere de pila cum erau la mafcom
Da
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👌👍🤝
thank you :)
You welcom :)
podrían venderme uno
I got far enough to once again realize it is a slide show with music ...... that’s really novel
Barf‼️
You think they are like twins? Then you need glasses lol the original has a narrower angle to the tread. Most wooden threads here in England were based on the Whitworth pattern but with a 5 degree wider angle (Whitworth was 55 degs, and most English wood threads were around 60 degrees) your original thread seems to be around 60 but the cutters you made seem to be a lot nearer 90 degrees. When you compare the two you can see the new thread is wider at the base than the original, but of course, if the external thread matches the internal, that's all that matters really. I used to be a church organ builder, and on old organs the boards with the holes to hold the pipes upright ( called Rack boards) were held up above the wind hole board (" Upper boards) by about 6 inched by what were called Rack Pillars and these were some 7 and a half inches long turned with a shoulder at each end and threaded on either end. One end screwed into theupperboard and the other had a hexagonal nut also made of wood, usually made from boxwood as it's dense and hard, takes a thread really well and does not break easily. and on restoration work apprentices had to sometimes re cut the threads on the rack pillars with a smaller die made for the purpose along with making new nuts using the same size tap as the smaller thread. If tooth ends of the rack pillar threads were damaged then completely new pillars were made but they were bought in from elsewhere.
Thanks for the information, very useful. The tap was made by a metal lathe, but not by me, I just fit the die. Paul Hammer has a video where he describes very nicely how he makes screws for reproductions.
PzpHd
would be better if you take the music off. I want to hear the cutters working, not your personal taste in music
thanks for the suggestion, I will do so in the future. There were many pictures and less filmed
I agree but you can be a bit more polite. It makes TH-cam more pleasant for everyone 🤓
Daniel otherwise I found the video very informative.. Thank you for that 👍