I had the same rivet problem. I used a grinding wheel (not a burr bit like your using) on my drill and just made cross cuts on the rivet itself. Then punched it out using a 1/8 inch pin punch. Worked finally.
Glad I watched this video. I backed away from doing the regulator on my 95 SN95 GT Convertible because of the rivets on the window holder. Thanks for showing a way around that roadblock. Now if I could just get the rearview mirror to stay on the windshield.....
I just did my driver side actuator yesterday. I wish I would have found this video first and learned about the rivets being too tough to drill. I must have broken about 5 or 6 drill bits. I ended up with a dremel and a cutting wheel. Then took a chicsel and hammer to them too. They werent that tough. The door lock actuator is also held in by a rivet that I dispatched yesterday as well.
The best regulator replacement video to watch as it is the first one I seen address the rivets used in the original assembly. The other videos all had bolt and nut assembly which is fine but not much help for us.
Thanks, not the smoothest of jobs but it all worked out well. Glad it helped you. Hope you are safe and well and thank you for watching and commenting.
Yes, price is a controlling factor if you are doing it for yourself or the public. And like you said checking the reviews is a good way to select a supplier. Thanks
This is just how I do mine.......Knock the centers with a small punch (they come out very easy usually one hit maybe 2) and use a 3/8 drill bit and that will take the head (whatever you want to call it) of the rivet off. Takes just a few seconds per rivet. Unfortunately I have done my fair share of Ford window regs lol Surprising I have had good luck with Asian window regs like Dorman uses. Good vid Bud! Take care!
I am a little ticked at myself for not being better prepped to knock those rivets out, and that die grinder with that bit was bouncing around. I wasn't prepared for with the right bits, didn't have anything small enough . Thanks for the heads up, I knew there is no way a damn rivet should have been that stubborn. I was impressed with how well the motor runs and the fit was dead on...time will tell.
Hey I have seen a few car come my way where someone has used a hammer and chisel before (Just tearing the door up) and still not get some of the rivets out LOL.
Used a Deremel and diamond bit cutter. Made a single cut next to the pin. Used a flat head scredriver to pop off the rivet lip. about 20 minutes to get all teh rivets,
Thanks for Video and follow up information. Just to follow up on some of the advice on rivet body removal and my solution. After Bending my shaft on Deremel diamond bit cutter turning it into a helicopter. I opted to use a small Unibit. Checking your back stop to insure you dont strike glass or any other objects. the Unibit makes short work of the remaining material of the rivet body.
I have a question I’m looking to change my regulator along with the motor. The motor has a little gear? I guess youd call it do I have to set that to the position the old one was in or can I just leave it any kind of way
Will do, I needed to really go and buy a few more drill bits as the sizes I needed were alas mostly broken and figured that little grinder would make quick work of the rivets. Next time center punch for sure and I WILL have the right tools for the job. Thanks Zig
I didn't have a drill bit small enough or strong enough to get the job done. My initial plan was to just drill 'em out as usual. Being impatient and not wanting to run to the store I brought out what I thought would make quick work of them...boy was I mistaken...lol
Hello thanks for the vid. The rear part of the driver's side window of my '98 is going up to high. I know there are vids on alignment but I haven't tried them yet. Instead I asked a friend who is a Ford Mechanic (more on that later) inspect my window. He stated that the window came unglued from the track and that's why it was going up too high in the back. He re-glued it with some high strength (according to him) silicone overnight. I heard in a forum awhile back that a retaining clip might have broken off allowing the window to go up too much but I went with what he told me. He supposedly let the silicone dry overnight and then stated that when he put the window up the silicone broke free and window went up too high again. His diagnosis (mind you he is a Ford Mechanic but I have learned that that doesn't mean much when it comes to the older cars because most people don't bring old cars to the dealer and these guys don't get trained on 17 year old vehicles!) is that I need an entirely new driver's side window. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I didn't believe thinking there was a way to reattach the window to whatever the hell its attached to so I said don't worry about it. I planned on just going back to lowering the window enough to where it wasn't too high in the rear even if it was down a little in the front when I closed the door but what happened was now the window is worse than ever. It is literally like a ship on the horizon. It falls down in the track if I try to use the button and I have to manually pull it to the height I want it and then close the door and leave it. It also is pushing against the interior door panel and the motor will stop and window sounds like it is under pressure to the point that its going to shatter. At that point I put it where it needs to be manually. Fortunately it is not to the point, and I don't know if it will get there, maybe you can enlighten me, that it just falls down and wants to stay down. I apologize for the long winded explanation but I wanted you to know exactly where I was at. What is up with this window? I was hoping your video would shed some light, but like you indicated in your video, you modified the regulator to accept the old track and you didn't even need to mess with the window. Is my window unglued from the track? Is this glue able to be sourced and can I re-glue? I really can't see how I can re-glue a window with the interior door skin in the way. I also can't imagine its glue and not clips or rivets that hold the window to the track but I am all ears. Thanks in advance for your time! Show less
Charles Murphy Charles, not really sure what advice to give you on this, without physically seeing the window and what's happening. It just sounds off track or out of the track, not sure why you would need a new window? The guide rail in front could be off, etc. Remove the door panel,grab a buddy and just see what is going on inside to trouble shoot it. I have not had to deal with re-gluing so i can't really speak to that issue. Door panel off, a good light to inspect what is really going on... Sorry I can't be of more help.
I've got an 03 mustang when i hit dips in the road some times the window wont roll back up, usually I hit another bump or tap the i side of the door and it work fine. Today I hit a dip and now it wont roll back up at all, I eat the motor working going up and down but it just doesn't move and it looks to be on track what could my actual problem be?
+Shane Maslanka Shane, Hard to diagnose something that I can't see. It sounds like the window motor and or regulator is bad ( easy and cheap enough to just replace both) . It could also be the switch which I doubt since it sounds like it is still getting power.
Those after market regulators work well and are a hole lot cheaper than the nos for sure .Depending on the car ,my buddy has used them with good results .Take care Rich .
Mordoor 53 Hey thanks much appreciated, not sure people are too into this "refresh" so good to hear someone is....:) I have to say this unit didn't have any of the crunchy groans I have heard from other cheapo units, time will tell.
That sun has done a number on some of the interior bits but we will see how the dyes work on the refresh. I am gonna have the right drill bits handy next time for those heavy duty rivets.
Thank you for this video! My son and I are working on a 2001 Mustang convertible and we were able to replace the regulator and motor pretty quickly as there were bolts no rivets. I did go ahead and use the old track rather than mount the new one that came with the new kit. However we had an issue with the slide (?) coming out of the track when the window was down. I ended up sing some pliers to kind of squeeze the track so it would be a snugger fit and I also hyper extended the tab so it couldn't come off. but sometime the window does not go back up perfectly straight. I feel like I am missing some detail that would guide it better through the cycle. Is there a guide in the front part of the door that needs to be accounted for? Thank you for any help.
Eric, Glad this helped. I am not sure what is causing your problem , it has been a while since I dd the regulators. Hard to know if something is different between an '01 and a '95 door regulator function but I doubt it. Best to just back track your steps and see if you can trouble shoot it that way. Good luck.
yea,there is a guide in the door...there are several brackets siliconed on the glass...if they fall off..many mechanics say you have to replace the glass window...the new window comes with those brackets siliconed on the glass...i believe there is a way to reglue them on...maybe it might take a couple of days to dry.if yours are still attached to the glass..it would be easy just to place them back into the guides.
If anyone reads these comments, the package on the top (20mm bolts) worked for all four rivets holes without any problems. I had a spare door with another window reg in it. Also don't be like me and forget to put the front of the window back in the track. Lol.
I do a lot of window reg. in all different cars and some of the worst are the cable reg. they can be a bear. Crown vic's come to mind and if your not real careful it can rats nest on you then your mad.
Ya I have done the cable set up on all four of my 5 series windows. I am a bit upset with myself on this one for not just running out and buying a couple of new drill bits for the rivets.
MustangConnection1 Them center rivet pin are whats the pain sometimes you can use a pin punch to pop them out then the actual rivets just drills out easy. I just did a caravan and they mount the motor to a rubber encased brass nut that freezes to the screw that holds the motor on. What a pain they are.
So after watching this, I really didn't want to deal with these rivets. After also trying to drill them out I actually discovered a much easier and simpler way to remove them. It literally takes about 3-5 minutes a rivet. Watch the video here th-cam.com/video/c9D5WkwbRQg/w-d-xo.html
I had the same rivet problem. I used a grinding wheel (not a burr bit like your using) on my drill and just made cross cuts on the rivet itself. Then punched it out using a 1/8 inch pin punch. Worked finally.
Glad I watched this video. I backed away from doing the regulator on my 95 SN95 GT Convertible because of the rivets on the window holder. Thanks for showing a way around that roadblock. Now if I could just get the rearview mirror to stay on the windshield.....
You are welcome, glad it was helpful
I just did my driver side actuator yesterday. I wish I would have found this video first and learned about the rivets being too tough to drill. I must have broken about 5 or 6 drill bits. I ended up with a dremel and a cutting wheel. Then took a chicsel and hammer to them too. They werent that tough. The door lock actuator is also held in by a rivet that I dispatched yesterday as well.
Jared, Those rivets are built Ford Tough for sure, lol. Glad you got it done and there are some other vids on here that may be helpful.
The best regulator replacement video to watch as it is the first one I seen address the rivets used in the original assembly. The other videos all had bolt and nut assembly which is fine but not much help for us.
Thanks, not the smoothest of jobs but it all worked out well. Glad it helped you. Hope you are safe and well and thank you for watching and commenting.
Yes, price is a controlling factor if you are doing it for yourself or the public. And like you said checking the reviews is a good way to select a supplier.
Thanks
Lloyd, I am just trusting this thing will last longer than I own it and so far it sounds super smooth. Thanks for checking it out.
This is just how I do mine.......Knock the centers with a small punch (they come out very easy usually one hit maybe 2) and use a 3/8 drill bit and that will take the head (whatever you want to call it) of the rivet off. Takes just a few seconds per rivet.
Unfortunately I have done my fair share of Ford window regs lol
Surprising I have had good luck with Asian window regs like Dorman uses.
Good vid Bud! Take care!
I am a little ticked at myself for not being better prepped to knock those rivets out, and that die grinder with that bit was bouncing around. I wasn't prepared for with the right bits, didn't have anything small enough . Thanks for the heads up, I knew there is no way a damn rivet should have been that stubborn. I was impressed with how well the motor runs and the fit was dead on...time will tell.
Hey I have seen a few car come my way where someone has used a hammer and chisel before (Just tearing the door up) and still not get some of the rivets out LOL.
@@73Shakes mo
Used a Deremel and diamond bit cutter. Made a single cut next to the pin. Used a flat head scredriver to pop off the rivet lip. about 20 minutes to get all teh rivets,
WIlliam Stanley Good tip, thanks William.
Good job Rich, I'm really enjoying seeing this car progress.
Thanks so much and glad to hear someone is liking the SN95 refresh. I am hoping to get it to paint later this week.
Thanks for Video and follow up information.
Just to follow up on some of the advice on rivet body removal and my solution.
After Bending my shaft on Deremel diamond bit cutter turning it into a helicopter. I opted to use a small Unibit.
Checking your back stop to insure you dont strike glass or any other objects. the Unibit makes short work of the remaining material of the rivet body.
edspad2 Cool and thanks for the sound advice
Nice rivet removal...clown shit for sure.
are the window regulators the same from a coupe and a convertible on the sn95?
I have a question I’m looking to change my regulator along with the motor. The motor has a little gear? I guess youd call it do I have to set that to the position the old one was in or can I just leave it any kind of way
Welp I’m not excited to swap out my window regulators now 😂
Next time you need to remove the rivets get a center punch and knock the pin out of the center then drill it out...the pin of the rivet is hardened..
Will do, I needed to really go and buy a few more drill bits as the sizes I needed were alas mostly broken and figured that little grinder would make quick work of the rivets. Next time center punch for sure and I WILL have the right tools for the job. Thanks Zig
Fantastic info on a common problem.
Thank you for the video. :-)
Hey Cecil, Thanks man, great to see a comment from you, and thanks for checking it out!
I just did this on our 96 crown vic it had rivets too. did you drift the pin out of the rivets first ? that helped me drill em out ..
I didn't have a drill bit small enough or strong enough to get the job done. My initial plan was to just drill 'em out as usual. Being impatient and not wanting to run to the store I brought out what I thought would make quick work of them...boy was I mistaken...lol
How did you hold the glass in place while you swapped out the regulator?
Trying to install the same part in my 94. Mine is stuck down. How do you detach the glass from the rest of the regulator?
Hello thanks for the vid. The rear part of the driver's side window of my '98 is going up to high. I know there are vids on alignment but I haven't tried them yet. Instead I asked a friend who is a Ford Mechanic (more on that later) inspect my window. He stated that the window came unglued from the track and that's why it was going up too high in the back. He re-glued it with some high strength (according to him) silicone overnight. I heard in a forum awhile back that a retaining clip might have broken off allowing the window to go up too much but I went with what he told me. He supposedly let the silicone dry overnight and then stated that when he put the window up the silicone broke free and window went up too high again. His diagnosis (mind you he is a Ford Mechanic but I have learned that that doesn't mean much when it comes to the older cars because most people don't bring old cars to the dealer and these guys don't get trained on 17 year old vehicles!) is that I need an entirely new driver's side window. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I didn't believe thinking there was a way to reattach the window to whatever the hell its attached to so I said don't worry about it. I planned on just going back to lowering the window enough to where it wasn't too high in the rear even if it was down a little in the front when I closed the door but what happened was now the window is worse than ever. It is literally like a ship on the horizon. It falls down in the track if I try to use the button and I have to manually pull it to the height I want it and then close the door and leave it. It also is pushing against the interior door panel and the motor will stop and window sounds like it is under pressure to the point that its going to shatter. At that point I put it where it needs to be manually. Fortunately it is not to the point, and I don't know if it will get there, maybe you can enlighten me, that it just falls down and wants to stay down. I apologize for the long winded explanation but I wanted you to know exactly where I was at. What is up with this window? I was hoping your video would shed some light, but like you indicated in your video, you modified the regulator to accept the old track and you didn't even need to mess with the window. Is my window unglued from the track? Is this glue able to be sourced and can I re-glue? I really can't see how I can re-glue a window with the interior door skin in the way. I also can't imagine its glue and not clips or rivets that hold the window to the track but I am all ears. Thanks in advance for your time!
Show less
Charles Murphy Charles, not really sure what advice to give you on this, without physically seeing the window and what's happening. It just sounds off track or out of the track, not sure why you would need a new window? The guide rail in front could be off, etc. Remove the door panel,grab a buddy and just see what is going on inside to trouble shoot it. I have not had to deal with re-gluing so i can't really speak to that issue. Door panel off, a good light to inspect what is really going on... Sorry I can't be of more help.
Man my window is stuck down.. I can hear the motor wanting to work but it doesn’t go up
Very helpful! Thanks
WHERE DID YOU BUY THESE ELECTRIC GLASS MACHINES? HERE IN BRAZIL ANY PIECE COSTS ABOVE A THOUSAND REIAS
1999 mustang GT both power locks work but both of the power Windows don't roll up or down, any ideas? Both moters can't be bad right?
It is either the switch or the motor and yes they can both be bad.
I've got an 03 mustang when i hit dips in the road some times the window wont roll back up, usually I hit another bump or tap the i side of the door and it work fine. Today I hit a dip and now it wont roll back up at all, I eat the motor working going up and down but it just doesn't move and it looks to be on track what could my actual problem be?
+Shane Maslanka Shane, Hard to diagnose something that I can't see. It sounds like the window motor and or regulator is bad ( easy and cheap enough to just replace both) . It could also be the switch which I doubt since it sounds like it is still getting power.
+Shane Maslanka Sounds like the front of the window is off track
Amazon does carry the door panel inserts I know because I just bought some 2499 on Amazon
Those after market regulators work well and are a hole lot cheaper than the nos for sure .Depending on the car ,my buddy has used them with good results .Take care Rich .
Mordoor 53 Hey thanks much appreciated, not sure people are too into this "refresh" so good to hear someone is....:) I have to say this unit didn't have any of the crunchy groans I have heard from other cheapo units, time will tell.
That definitely looks like a pain in the rump. Looks like the sun took care of that speaker cover too. UV rays are harsh.
That sun has done a number on some of the interior bits but we will see how the dyes work on the refresh. I am gonna have the right drill bits handy next time for those heavy duty rivets.
I'm interested in seeing how the dyes work.
yup Ford, Same car i worked on in Body shop class for my final lol, them rivits are no joke
Ya next time I will have the right drill bits handy that die grinder was bouncing all over the place....
Great tech video Rich
huck01955 Thanks Joe, much appreciated.
what's the black part of the part that connects the window regulator and that holds the glass.
David Santiago Are you talking about the window channel itself? Not sure exactly what you are referring to, is there something wrong with yours?
Yes the a little black circle that cam out of it and wanted to know what that part was because it dosnt go back in
very helpful! thanks
Thanks and glad it was helpful.
Nice job on that, good thing Ford fixed that rivet deal, what a nightmare. Why rivet a serviceable part like that?
Ya I think Ford fixed that on later models. A bit of a pain the first time.
Thank you for this video! My son and I are working on a 2001 Mustang convertible and we were able to replace the regulator and motor pretty quickly as there were bolts no rivets. I did go ahead and use the old track rather than mount the new one that came with the new kit. However we had an issue with the slide (?) coming out of the track when the window was down. I ended up sing some pliers to kind of squeeze the track so it would be a snugger fit and I also hyper extended the tab so it couldn't come off. but sometime the window does not go back up perfectly straight. I feel like I am missing some detail that would guide it better through the cycle. Is there a guide in the front part of the door that needs to be accounted for? Thank you for any help.
Eric, Glad this helped. I am not sure what is causing your problem , it has been a while since I dd the regulators.
Hard to know if something is different between an '01 and a '95 door regulator function but I doubt it. Best to just back track your steps and see if you can trouble shoot it that way. Good luck.
yea,there is a guide in the door...there are several brackets siliconed on the glass...if they fall off..many mechanics say you have to replace the glass window...the new window comes with those brackets siliconed on the glass...i believe there is a way to reglue them on...maybe it might take a couple of days to dry.if yours are still attached to the glass..it would be easy just to place them back into the guides.
Nice work.
Thanks Buddy.
those rivets are easy. you just hammer a punch they they pop out the center
I got mine out by using a phillips head screw driver and a hammer to knock the center of the rivets out and then drilling out the rivet
Thanks for the tip, sounds way easier and a better approach.
What length bolts did you use to put in the regulator in with?
Can't remember but you may be able to see the package in the video.
If anyone reads these comments, the package on the top (20mm bolts) worked for all four rivets holes without any problems. I had a spare door with another window reg in it. Also don't be like me and forget to put the front of the window back in the track. Lol.
@mustangconnection1 I know this is an old video.. BUT do you have any videos on how to swap out the Rear Quarter window in a 2003 Convertible???
Sean, I don't and the car was sold a while back, no SN95's or SN95ll's in the stable at the moment.
I do a lot of window reg. in all different cars and some of the worst are the cable reg. they can be a bear. Crown vic's come to mind and if your not real careful it can rats nest on you then your mad.
Ya I have done the cable set up on all four of my 5 series windows. I am a bit upset with myself on this one for not just running out and buying a couple of new drill bits for the rivets.
MustangConnection1 Them center rivet pin are whats the pain sometimes you can use a pin punch to pop them out then the actual rivets just drills out easy. I just did a caravan and they mount the motor to a rubber encased brass nut that freezes to the screw that holds the motor on. What a pain they are.
Just got a question is there any way i can roll the window up even thought the moter and window regular are broken on my 2000 ford mustaing coupe
I have a question
So after watching this, I really didn't want to deal with these rivets. After also trying to drill them out I actually discovered a much easier and simpler way to remove them. It literally takes about 3-5 minutes a rivet. Watch the video here th-cam.com/video/c9D5WkwbRQg/w-d-xo.html
Allways replace rivet's with small bolts and nylock nuts.....
Good advice Stevie, thanks man.
Battle scars? Jesus
Nice body work tools brake every thing take all the paint off the door. Why don't u just cut the door off the car nice job
Rivets?????? Mine has bolts. Hahaha
Pretty sure they ditched the rivets starting with the '96 model year.
none of those "cups" need to come off
+ironphoenixx111 So how do you remove the door panel without removing the door panel cup?
snake gear motor.. carbon brush worn down
HACK JOB 😂