Me again! Been in talks with midwest for some time and almost ready to order my lumber. 60x96 going up. They set me up with 3 ply columns throughout the entire building, I have always known you did 4 ply in the house and 3 ply on the garage. Did you just choose to go with a bigger column or did they recommend it? Thanks again man and keep up the great work, it has inspired me.
My wife and I are seriously thinking hard on doing the same. In my research I am leaning toward a 4 ply. Though watching RR buildings, most of their buildings have been 3 ply but not seeing those are carrying a full second floor. For safety and piece of mind, going 4x6 ply would be a good bet, just my 2 pennies. Though, note RR buildings and I am sure Paul did consult with an engineer and we will do the same, as well as hiring a geotechnical engineer to ensure our columns+wetset brackets are in the dirt pretty well.
Hey there Paul, I was just watching some of your older videos again and wanted to know what brand and model number laser level you are using to set your grade and can you basically set the grade to whatever you want if you didn't have the shelter? Take care!
Can you share more details about your backhoe bucket lifting jig? I'm curious if I can build something similar for my tractor for lighting walls. Thanks!! If you want to email me details, just let me know.
It was made out of a 6” steel I beam. I designed it specifically for the backhoe, and it’s 17’ long. I can email you some pics if you’d like. Unfortunately we didn’t film making it.
If you’re cutting off a chunk of the post at the top, why bother adjusting the height at the bottom of the post to make sure they’re level? (Ie. when you cut the top off, you can level it there)
Question I have watched all your videos. Also R&R If you have set your piers to grade why are the wet set brackets off by 3/8 and so on I just can't figure out why they are off.
I designed the house with the porch where all the big windows are to help strengthen those two sides the house. I think it would still be fine but the addition of the porch tied into the structure really gives it added strength. Spray foam insulation will also give it structural strength if it is at least 2”s thick.
Leo Mejias it’s always been what I wanted to build for a house. It’s exciting to finally be working on it. Keep dreaming and working towards your goals.
I am building a 2 story post frame home. I am planning on securing mine to an already poured 4' slab with a 12" frost wall footing... do you suggest going the same route you did or is my foundation good too?
Todd Gosling I don’t have much experience with anything like that to tell you if it would work or not. My guess is that you would be much better off pouring column footings or a frost wall that goes below the frost line. Not sure what the weather is like in your area. In my area it’s required that footings are at least 42” deep. Typically if it is a frost wall we do a 16” wide footing at least 42” deep then pour an 8” wide wall on top of that. We can only do thickened slabs which is similar to what your talking about on buildings smaller than 24’x24’.
These are laminated and way more straight. That middle chunk can be removed and custom cut for height. You can make up slight differences in footing height
I bought the posts and then notched one of the 2x6’s where I needed to. The leave the top loose for you if you want. Makes getting the 2x6 out easy that you need to cut.
I have x bracing on trusses and I still have to add them on underside of roof. With my second level in the house and the additional framing I have to do will take care of all the corner bracing.
Midwest Manufacturing which is through Menards. They were various lengths depending on where they are located. The longest ones I think were 28’ and that was for the middle posts on the end walls where the peak of the house is.
Great to see a pole barn where the post isn’t buried under grade . Those will last for hundreds of years .
I really appreciate the content! You do a great job explaining the details of the layout! Thank you!
Looks like Kyle and Greg over at RRBuilders. Great work love the videos!
Looks like you have watched a few RR Buildings videos....well done, exactly the way I'm going to build mine.
Good job. I am going to follow your videos.
Me again! Been in talks with midwest for some time and almost ready to order my lumber. 60x96 going up. They set me up with 3 ply columns throughout the entire building, I have always known you did 4 ply in the house and 3 ply on the garage. Did you just choose to go with a bigger column or did they recommend it? Thanks again man and keep up the great work, it has inspired me.
My wife and I are seriously thinking hard on doing the same. In my research I am leaning toward a 4 ply. Though watching RR buildings, most of their buildings have been 3 ply but not seeing those are carrying a full second floor. For safety and piece of mind, going 4x6 ply would be a good bet, just my 2 pennies. Though, note RR buildings and I am sure Paul did consult with an engineer and we will do the same, as well as hiring a geotechnical engineer to ensure our columns+wetset brackets are in the dirt pretty well.
Hey there Paul, I was just watching some of your older videos again and wanted to know what brand and model number laser level you are using to set your grade and can you basically set the grade to whatever you want if you didn't have the shelter? Take care!
Can you recommend any books that you have followed that instruct these techniques such as the laminated posts.
How far are your wall girts spaced at?
Can you share more details about your backhoe bucket lifting jig? I'm curious if I can build something similar for my tractor for lighting walls. Thanks!! If you want to email me details, just let me know.
It was made out of a 6” steel I beam. I designed it specifically for the backhoe, and it’s 17’ long. I can email you some pics if you’d like. Unfortunately we didn’t film making it.
ARe you using 16' and 8' 2x6 for girts?
If you’re cutting off a chunk of the post at the top, why bother adjusting the height at the bottom of the post to make sure they’re level? (Ie. when you cut the top off, you can level it there)
Why did you use 2x6 girts? Is 2x4 not upto code?
Question I have watched all your videos. Also R&R If you have set your piers to grade why are the wet set brackets off by 3/8 and so on I just can't figure out why they are off.
They're set to grade but in the course of pouring the concrete, etc. will change things a little. We use the posts to fine tune everything.
Is there any alternative to corner-bracing? Those corner braces interfere with full- size windows.
I designed the house with the porch where all the big windows are to help strengthen those two sides the house.
I think it would still be fine but the addition of the porch tied into the structure really gives it added strength.
Spray foam insulation will also give it structural strength if it is at least 2”s thick.
I would like to build a polebarn house too
Leo Mejias it’s always been what I wanted to build for a house. It’s exciting to finally be working on it. Keep dreaming and working towards your goals.
I am building a 2 story post frame home. I am planning on securing mine to an already poured 4' slab with a 12" frost wall footing... do you suggest going the same route you did or is my foundation good too?
Where are you located? Like a thickened slab basically? What is the size of the house.
12” footing around the perimeter and then a 4” slab on top of that. Missouri
Sorry for all the questions just trying to make sure I understand correctly. Is the footing 12” wide or are you saying it is 12” deep?
It’s fine. 12”deep it’s a frost footing/short wall. Then they frame the slab on top of that and then I would anchor brackets to the concrete.
Todd Gosling I don’t have much experience with anything like that to tell you if it would work or not. My guess is that you would be much better off pouring column footings or a frost wall that goes below the frost line. Not sure what the weather is like in your area. In my area it’s required that footings are at least 42” deep. Typically if it is a frost wall we do a 16” wide footing at least 42” deep then pour an 8” wide wall on top of that.
We can only do thickened slabs which is similar to what your talking about on buildings smaller than 24’x24’.
How did you manage to cut the middle 2x on your post? I've been thinking about this for days and can think of a good way to make that cut
I don’t think he had them nailed together at that point. So it’d be easy to slide it out from the “lumber sandwich” and cut it.
I just came on here to ask this exact question. I thought he ordered the posts already made, so I'm not sure how he cut just the middle.
That's how the post came, the top middle section is not glued.
Just wondering why not use 6x6 solid pole ?
2x6’s might be cheaper. And also, the notches at the top of the 2x6 are where the trusses will be placed. Similar to LEGOs.
These are laminated and way more straight.
That middle chunk can be removed and custom cut for height. You can make up slight differences in footing height
Did you build your post and notch the top yourself or did you buy them like that?
I bought the posts and then notched one of the 2x6’s where I needed to. The leave the top loose for you if you want. Makes getting the 2x6 out easy that you need to cut.
How did you Mitch out that piece?
*Notch
What lengths did you get for the girts?
16’
Was no shear resistance required in the corners such as "X" cross bracing or plywood shear walls?
I have x bracing on trusses and I still have to add them on underside of roof. With my second level in the house and the additional framing I have to do will take care of all the corner bracing.
@@MrPostFrame what made you build your own post? Just so you can put your trusses inside of them?
Nick M I did not build them. I did however have to cut them down to the correct height and notch them for the trusses.
@@MrPostFrame How did you notch out the post to receive the trusses?
@@teager23336 +1
Where did you get your post from? And gow long did they come?
Midwest Manufacturing which is through Menards. They were various lengths depending on where they are located. The longest ones I think were 28’ and that was for the middle posts on the end walls where the peak of the house is.
Seems fairly easy to make yourself it seems? If you have the time of course
@@bucsboy78 These posts are planed and glued to have maximum strength, sure you can make them yourself, not sure if it's feasible though.
What is the span between your posts?
8 feet
Which state is that?
Iowa
now i see why its called a pole barn... you dont explain things too well
It's actually called a "post frame building".
@@bertveldhuizen8699 yes