How Strong Are Wet Set Brackets? | Piers + Brackets | Cost Breakdown | MAD County Standard | Ep 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- This is the EPISODE 3 to a complete barndominium build. During this video we pour the piers and set the brackets. We are going to bring a COST BREAKDOWN in every video during this build series. The Mad County Standard is a 2,300 square foot 2-story post frame construction home (39’x36′) and garage (32’x24′) with a wrap around porch. It has a main floor master with a total of 3 bedrooms and 3 1/2 bathrooms.
Sturdi-Wall Bracket Design + Specs
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0:00 Series Intro
0:46 Bracket Details
8:04 Pouring Piers
10:08 Setting Brackets
14:30 More Bracket Detail
15:43 Closing
16:33 Cost Breakdown
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2 things, first off, thanks for the education on the brackets, very interesting. Second, so wonderful to see you teaching the next generation. This video made my morning better.
Thanks, got to pass on the knowledge.
Quick insight from an engineer: ASD and LRFD are two (2) different design methodologies. They do not relate to one another, at least in the manner presented. One is not the “allowed”, nor the other the “actual”. While the naming convention may prompt some confusion, they are both the “allowable” loads, if you will, per the respective design methodology employed. Generally, ASD is a more conservative design approach and will result in a more robust design - you can see that from your table as the values are lesser.
At any rate, keep up the great content and thank you! I've picked up a fair amount of practical knowledge from watching your channel.
Thanks for watching!
We used wet set brackets on our dream woodshop self-build, and everything went smooth as silk. I did everything myself, but my daughter helped tip-up the posts and fix them with a temporary screw until they could be plumbed. As you state, they are engineered to work just fine, but I'll throw in this: we have post frame buildings all over the place around our property that were built in the 30's, 40's and 50's, and those buildings were built with round poles into the ground (newer ones were pine soaked in creosote, and the older were cedar). I have been in a lot of these buildings, and most of them have nearly every post rotted off at the ground - yet the buildings are still standing! If a cedar pole barn can stand nearly 100 years, I believe these newer post frames will be around a _very_ long time 😊
Thanks for sharing! And yes we just don’t want to take the risk with a home especially!
Wow, thanks!
I watch a lot of construction videos and I'm always amazed at how many do it betters their are in comments I've been in construction my whole life almost 50 years and I have seen some really bad I'll just say stuff but I love to learn and really appreciate good quality workmanship in all phases my opinion of others work doesn't matter. I had someone tell me this a very long time ago praise in public criticize in private. Peoples need to express themselves at someone else's expense still amazes me. As always look forward to your videos
Thanks for watching appreciate the comment!
Probably the best explanation I have seen on the permacolumn bracket. Thanks!
Can you help me build my post frame someday??
Nice to see the family out helping!
Wish they could help everyday.
Glad to see you're teaching your boy and the family your trade! Really looking forward to my build this spring, we got the dirt all scraped off and now waiting on the permit process with the City. Wanted to let you know I bought a piece of glass 7' by 7' for us to use between the shop and office, it was heavy as hell, it will take all of us to move it again!! Don't work to hard guys!
That sounds really heavy!
Just a tip: ideally the sonotube should extend to the frost line. That way the concrete surface is smooth giving frost heave less to grab. Jagged below the frost line is fine and flaring a bit is beneficial. I know R&R Buildings does it the shallow way, but given that you are mostly building houses it probably makes sense to go the extra mile for longevity. Great to see how far you have come from your early channel!
Thanks for the feedback/tip!
Consider vibrating the brackets with a cordless sander to eliminate voids at rebar. Super fast and will improve bond.
The brackets are vibrated into place initially. There are no voids around the rebar.
Always great info!Thank you!
Love the explanation and content, now that’s how you make a good video!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the great content and demonstrations. If you don't mind, what strength concrete do you use for the continuous footing walls?
Nice work. You make it look easy
Thank you!
Thank you for this video!
Thanks for watching!
I love wet sets. We can't use them here without tying into rebar. Our hurricanes tend to cause too much uplift, Even the walls need to be tied from foundation to top plate with tread all. I do like using them when Im inland for pier footings though. I usually spread the tangs out so they can not be pulled out without fracturing a large chunk of the concrete footing vs the standard 8 inch fracturing expected from the straight tines. Either way they save some time when major uplift isn't a concern..
I was going to make a joke about the "Engineer who wears pink",....then I found your videos with on the insulation situation you experienced a year ago. Now I understand why she is keeping a eye on you guys. Thanks for the informed videos here and also there, with the introduction to Spray Jones.
I don't know how I missed those videos,...I thought I've seen them all. Keep it up!! My designs will be coming your way after the first of the year!
Ha...yes she likes to visit the job site. Keeps us in line!
Will these brackets work with rough cut 6x6 marine grade pressure treated posts?
Unrelated to this video/project - I have been binging your Mad County built. Absolutely outstanding work and beautiful home!!
Did I miss the spray foam insulation and the insulation Q&A? My playlist jumped from Insulation Prep, to a full recap to interior framing.
Thanks.
Not sure here is the playlist page so you can see the order of videos:
th-cam.com/play/PL3QM32YjSVn3GVk2UCIj1U7tR8IRs0zKO.html
The bucket looks a bon for the truck drivers too- they can pretty well estimate when the last bucket load is off and start cleaning up while you pour out the last footers. One more value to the loader too. FR
Yes, definitely has lots of benefits
Do you get soil engineering done? I ask because if the soil for what ever reason was to be soft on one or two of those piers and start to sink, it would pull down a portion of the structure right?
Excellent video, thank you...btw It's a "moot" point not a "mute" point.
I noticed that you set the columns in from your layout line just over 1-1/2". Im assuming that is to allow for the girts. It seems to me it would be easier to layout the foundation so that the brackets line right up against the string. I'm in the middle of designing and drawing plans for a job now and want to make sure I'm not missing something. Also confused why the same brackets couldn't be used for the outside corners?
What depth does the cement tube have and what is its diameter?
So I see the small bend at the bottom of the rebar is no longer needed to prevent uplift.
What keeps rodents from getting into the 2'' vertical insulation and then under the floor or up into the wall?
So, how strong are they? Did I miss that part?
What is then wind load capacity ?
Have you ever had the nuts on the through bolts loosen over time?
I have a foundation poured for a shop with ICF . My question is would the dry set brackets work on this ? Have you ever done this ? Great video and explanations ! Thanks
Yes I have. I have a whole series on a house built on ICF with dry set brackets:
th-cam.com/play/PL3QM32YjSVn24Y0jGrwYcGQ1--0ACLiRN.html
Could you do a video on the telaskid behind you in the video I don't know if you have done one I'll try and find it if you have. Thank you very very much for taking the time to make these videos and the help you have given to so many people I hope one day I'll be able to use your blueprints or hire you.
We haven’t done a video specifically on the JCB Teleskid. We hope to do one in the future.
8:50 Very nice to see the kids helping out by doing some of the good ol' fashioned type of work. My neighbor married a city girl and her kids, 12 and 14, are chronically pathetic. They gripe and moan even when having to push mow the 12' x 12' space inside their fenced in area. All you seeing them do, even on the rare occasion that they come outside, is dink off on their phones
Thanks for watching!
I did rebar cage's in the footings and welded the brackets to the cage then poured the concrete
@darronshirley7886 any videos or pics of that process
Does anyone know if these are allowed in Oklahoma?
What areas/states do y'all build?
I am surprise you didn't but wire mesh cages and rebar in the holes.
If you want to see just how strong those wet set brackets are, check out this video posted on R&R Buildings. Kyle had to remove one on one his jobs. The strength of these is really impressive. Start at 5 minutes into the video and watch what happens when he removes a concrete pier by pulling it out from the bracket. th-cam.com/video/E8NaaWYJmfE/w-d-xo.html&t
I've seen that video...such a great example of how strong those bracket are!
Thanks for showing the detail about how you embed the columns with the poured slab. I’ve been looking for that for quite some time. I did have a question about that though. Is there any concern about moisture, condensation or otherwise, causing problems with the end of the column where it’s is surrounded but the vapor barrier and concrete slab. If there is no way for that moisture to escape over time I feel the end-grain of the column boards will be come weak or even rot. Is that a true concern or does the single exposed face on the outside of the column provide sufficient drainage/moisture escapement?
Thanks for explaining all the details. Keep up the good work.
There is no moisture source there and the column bottoms are treated.
Thanks for this...I'm South African doing my pour and bracket set this coming Friday. We don't have the infrastructure or industry down here, so I've based all my foundation work on TH-cam vids. This one being by far the most important of all. The one thing that's stressing me a little as there doesn't seem to be any content covering the matter is how long after the pour do you have to rush to get all the brackets in, before the concrete starts to give resistance? You do far more columns than I'm tackling but I do hear you at one point saying, 'Did we pour these first'. Thanks in advance.
There is no exact timing. Depends on temp, weather, water in soil, and concrete mix. Really have to go off the feel. You want a little resistance as you’re setting the bracket. It shouldn’t just slide down. The bottom plate of the bracket shouldn’t be sinking into concrete. Sit right on top of pier. There’s times we’ve started setting a bracket and pulled back out because it wasn’t ready. Hope that helps.
@@MrPostFrame Absolutely...thanks for taking the time to reply, was the last piece of the puzzle...much appreciated!
Can you elaborate on how you poured the slab over the pier? Is the slab poured directly on top of the pier, or are the piers at the same grade as the slab? Also, could the slab and the piers be poured at the same time? Thanks for your videos.
We add rock, plumbing, vapor barrier, insulation, and then concrete. We like to pour the slab after the structure is built.
You can learn more by watching these videos:
th-cam.com/video/r6c7JmMwC2M/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/AGKRBCEWEYc/w-d-xo.html
Should you put rebar into post form? Also I was not aware of fiberglass rebar, thoughts on using fiberglass rebar?
I used fiberglass rebar on my monolithic slab. The only complications I encountered were A) you can’t bend it, so other solutions have to be explored and B) when I put in my wet set brackets the rebar got in the way a few times.
I see you kinda eye up the center of the post to set the brackets. Do these measurements have a little side to side play like a 1/4-3/4" without messing the building up to much?
They do a little. I like to measure and put a mark on the center of the bracket and then line up with the line I score in the pier.
Do you have a video on Barndo with basement poured walls
I poured a small basement under my personal home which was done like a normal basement. We have a build coming up this fall with a basement.
I was told dry concrete mix is stronger but I see many post forms and Styrofoam concrete wall blocks poured with a very wet and runny concrete. I assume that is so it will flow into crevices and fill the form more complete but aren't you reducing strength? Thoughts?
Some of the soup you see is from using water reducer, it allows a better flow yet the yield is still there.. Do some research on it..
Sir..there is no reinforcement bars in the colunm when you pour the foundation?
Despite what the armchair tiktok and TH-cam construction experts say; you do not need rebar or wire In every concrete application
Are you using a package from a lumber yard or a postframe company? Were you moving to get the brackets set or was there time to get them decent before the concrete starts setting up?
Trusses and columns come from metal supplier. Then I have a lumber supplier for the rest of the framing lumber. Set up time depends on weather. If it's hot and sunny we need to move pretty fast, but usually a little time in between.
I'm waiting on a few more loads of sand then drilling for my sonotubes. When I reached out to the manufacturer (Midwest steel) they informed me I couldn't bury the brackets and have to pour concrete squares on top of the sonotube. Have you ever seen this done? I've saw a few videos doing as you did, and personally it's how I would like to because I don't want to see the circles for sure, and I'm not sure on having 7" thick squares on top of my sonotubes to support the building weight.
Your concrete is rated to 4000 PSI (per square inch) so a single pier would be strong enough to support your entire structure.
Also, it makes more sense anyways. What is the purpose of using brackets if you can’t guarantee your post is staying dry?
@@joshuastilwell4111 the post would still be staying dry, the bottom 5" would just be in the concrete. No part of the post would be underground.
How do you figure? He’s installing the post right on top of the sonotube. So unless you can literally see the sonotube from the exterior of the structure the post will be underground.
He’s installing sand/gravel, 2” of insulation foam and then a 5-6” pad on top of that. So the base of the post is at least 8-10” below the finished slab.
Don't you need to put some diagonal framing at least in the corners of the building? Is it gonna stay straight and be stiff enough only with the OSB or the wall cover?
We will add some diagonal framing in the corners of the building. Need to get our windows framed up and in place and then we come back and add that to the inside.
Do you ever have issues with the piers settling over time?
I would think the piers should extend a few more inches above the ground, then it would be much easier to get jacks under the building in case it needed leveling after a few years or decades.
As they built it I don't think there is any easy fix if the piers do settle, so hopefully they don't.
Vay beeee
Why use a 3 ply and not a solid post? Im assuming this is a new standard as im seeing more and more now. Curious as to why.
They are actually stronger and straighter over longer lengths. All of the laminated grains going different directions provides more strength.
Are you against using dry set brackets vs the wet set? I’ve seen a few channels where they like dry set better.
No, I'm not against using the dry set brackets. I have a full series on my channel where I build a house on a continuous ICF wall using dry set brackets. They are a little bit easier to fine tune. However, I prefer the wet sets whenever I can use them.
Be aware the dry set brackets have different engineering. You should research with PermaColumn to see if it meets your needs.
@@MrPostFrame We are getting near to starting a build. Would you please elaborate a bit more on this? Thx
For some reason they say we can wet set anything in california. Anyways Nice work
How deep are the footings piers.?
...
For our builds we go 48-54” deep. Definitely need to get below your frost line
🏴👍
Hey Mr. Post Frame. What is your opinion on 6x6s? I would like to use larger timbers to include them in the looks of the interior walls. Basically, the finished wall would set recessed behind the timber face. What sort of issues would you forsee?
Just curious how are you calculating your $1812 cost on your mixture of 3 ply, 4 ply, and universal brackets. The cost seems a lot cheaper per bracket than Menards sells them along with other places making me think the price you are quoting isn’t consumer accurate. Just glancing at $1812 / 33 piers = $54.91 per bracket on the low end. Understanding that the universal brackets are $40 each, the 3 ply are $66 while the 4 ply are $80 a piece. Even if you did all 3 ply at $66 x 33 piers it would be almost $2,200 which is almost a $400 difference. Are the prices you are getting discounted for you? I only ask so we can all understand ahead of time so the viewers can take these cost breakdowns lightly. A $400 difference can easily turn into multi-thousands by the end of the build if the quotes are specialized cost for you. Thanks. Keep up the great content.
First, I want to thank you for your attention to detail. When I was looking at our accounting software, I saw 33 brackets. However, after looking closely, the universal bracket costs are being applied later when we use them for the columns. Sorry about the confusion. I'll note this in the next video, since I thought they were included in this one.
I believe we have 5 - 3ply, 16 - 4ply, and 12 - universal. So that price just includes the 3ply and 4ply.
@@MrPostFrame That makes more sense, thanks for the clarification. I’ve been preplanning for a while (since you started your house) on what it would cost to build something for my family and when I saw the brackets it just kind of stood out. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Good luck with your build!
@@MrPostFrame Funny, I was thinking the same thing & came up with the same calculation per bracket & wondered. Thx for addressing this.
IRC has nothing about post frame construction.
I have a foundation poured for a shop with ICF . My question is would the dry set brackets work on this ? Have you ever done this ? Great video and explanations ! Thanks
Yes, there is actually a shot in the video where I'm adding dry set brackets to a continuous wall. That wall was created with ICF. I have a whole series dedicated to that build.
th-cam.com/video/NIx3pXuwRuQ/w-d-xo.html
@@MrPostFrame ok I will watch it thank you 👍