For small parts and Buggered screws and the like you can put a dilute mixture of Selenical acid in a small bottle and soak them for 15 to 30 min. (After they've been touched up of course, and rinsed with 91% isopropyl) Take em out blot them and oil them and Y'er Good ! 😉👍 Handy for peckered breach screws, triggers, trigger guards, sights, etc ... "Seriously" rusted screws can be soaked in a 4 to 1 mix of Water & Molasses for a few weeks prior. You'd be shocked how the rust falls away and the black finish you're left to work with ! 😮 Fine old, Vintage parts are hard to come by ! 🤷🏼♂️
Excellent work on one of my all time favorite sport air rifles. A high quality tune kit installation with proper lubrication and the 34 is a smooth, accurate and potent hunter/fun gun. Another fine addition to your collection. Have a great weekend Kevin.
The Mod. 34 is extremely easy to tune well ! 😉👍 Most Diana break barrels of this standard production format are. 🤷🏼♂️ They Always Work, and results are quite predictable. 🙂
@@marcmyers1465 Agreed with 1 caveat. Because the cocking lever isn't articulated, it can result in piston galling in some rifles. Piston buttoning will cure the issue in those examples.
@@thelvadam8916 True, I always hone the cylinder, button, and sleeve the piston, and glide the cocking arm. No metal to metal contact. I'll even dampen the cocking arm with Sorbothane. 😉👍 An inexpensive 2nd. hand rifle leaves a whole lot of wiggle room for Tuning, and Upgrades ! 😃 Even articulated cocking linkages have their own challenges. IE: Clicks & cocking slot galling. 🤷🏼♂️
Hi Kevin, Thank you for your knowledge, enthusiasm and direction. I like to do my own jobs where possible. Its nice to know we are not totally at the mercy of other people. With respect to the professionals, sometimes its better if we can do our own mends/fixes as with our own property and passion we normally have more time to spend and love to give, rather than be under pressure to produce and time scales to adhere to. There's also the satisfaction in producing your own fixes, which is great too. I only recently found out we could do any kind of blueing at home. I thought we were at the mercy of the gunsmiths, what with the use of the chemicals, etc. Its was a great instructional video and great commentary and advice too, Kevin. Best wishes and thank you again. Take care, my friend.
Nice work there! That was the first time I heard to go less on every preceding coat after the first. Appreciate the tip! I always appreciate your content and your enthusiasm for air rifles as well! Keep up the good work!
Great useful video, thank you for sharing, I have an old BSA that I’m going to try and re-do the bluing on now, always enjoy your videos, have a great evening, cheers, Dan.
Thanks Dan. Rebluing an entire gun with this method will yield decent results but it won't compare to a professional, hot salts bluing job. Good luck my friend and thanks for watching.
I've never one this cold bluing process before, mainly because I didn't know how to do it correctly, now that I've taught, I think I'll give this a try. T'anks Teach! :)
Some really good advice there Kevin. Any future cold bluing I may have to do will be better for this video. I have been told that pre-warming the steel with a heat gun or hair dryer before applying the blue will enhance the finish. Thanks for the video.
Thank you very much Kevin. This video will come in very handy for me. I will definitely refer back to it when refinishing my rifles. Stay Safe. Be Well. GOD BLESS.
Two years ago I restored an old 1975 Weihrauch HW50 including the stock. It looks just beautiful, I used Bisley brand oxidizer to blue all the metal, but the blue is disappearing in some places in the barrel and in the compression tube. I'm thinking of sending it to a gunsmith to have it professionally blued.
Hi Carlos. No cold blue on earth can rival the durability and longevity of a professional, hot salts bluing job. A professional rebluing is always preferable but not always affordable. Thanks as always my friend.
Looks good right now. The manufacturer actually recommends a warm water rinse of the area after each application. Then, a final dry and oil application.
Thanks Rodney. I've used the rinse method in the past. I prefer the results without the rinse and haven't had any issues over time. Thanks so much for watching my friend.
Great minds think alike , I was just going to comment on using the wire wheel on a dremel when you pulled it out Kevin, i've had good results with the usa made cold blue by tetra gun, I find they all work better if you warm the parts first to about almost too hot too hold.
@@razor1962 Any time pal, I still think it was kinda dumb for diana to finish the top of the breech like that, it's a moisture trap for sure & I bet a lot of them end up rusty there. Sounds like you've tuned that one by the shot sound & also pretty pokey by how quick the shot rang the bell!
@@junglie They did that for various specialty sights so the length could be adjusted . 😉 Mostly on older rifles. Diana did offer many different sight sets in the past.
i did some complete guns a d 16 and 35 with a product from ballistol Schnell brunierung und kalt entfetter ,fast bluing and cold degreasser in englisch,one layer enough
@@razor1962 this aere 2 people how i inspet vab a airgun!!!!No landingbaan in flo and a stupif orange red for korrel oldschool sorry wheb people hurt how like like thuis!!!! i dont meen it for me a gun like slavia
Hello Im think of buying a hw 77 but dont know what is better 77k or 77 long vs shorter barrel what is better and why my english is not thr best.. Greetings from the Netherlands
That's a matter of personal preference. Either configuration should be awesome. I own a 97K and it's a good length. It shoots better than I do. Thanks for watching my friend.
"If" you can find one, the HW77 Long barrel in the Original 25mm format had Superior Accuracy and pretty much invented the sport of Field Target all by itself ! 😉👍 They are getting increasingly harder to find these days, but do show up from time to time. 😌 I tend to buy them on sight, rat hole them, and build the living snot out'a them !!! 😃👍 FWIW: I found my last one right over there in the Netherlands. 😉
Oxpho Blue cream rubbed in with a bit of 0000 steel wool is Very Nice !!! 😃👍 I've redone a few Olde Match rifles this way, and the results were Very Close to Master Bluing. 🤯
Yeah, probably so David. The rust didn't extend underneath the sight but I managed to hit the sight base while using the wire wheel. Left a little mark. Could've been avoided had I removed it. Thanks for watching my friend.
i thinking a verry time een red appel with bsuiker on for schoothing of his heis wit myn slavia, evrei t!mbi sayitb i smelthingn somting rond hin and its nots frei smelthing !!!!!! greethings nibs,with all myn love koenraad
While cold blue can never match a professional, hot salts bluing job, it will last for many years if well cared for. A good protective oil will wipe away finger prints and airborne moisture which can lead to fading and surface rust.
Try using the Oxpho Blue Cream, and rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool next time. You can do repeated treatments until you arrive at the depth of finish you're looking for... 😉👍 Always wipe it down with oil after each treatment to fix the finish, even if you have to wipe it down with 91% Isopropyl before the next application. The oil is to fix the finish. 😉 This has worked for me for over Two Decades now. 🤷🏼♂️ There's a difference between touch up repairs and Re-Bluing. Nobody wants to mix up a fresh tank of hot salts for a repair. 😧 Even the Touch-up Bluing pens work well if you lightly buff them out with 0000 and do multiple applications till you get it where you want. Always work as small as possible for touch-ups and buff it to blend it in. Pens are handy for nicks and scratches. 🙂 Ultimately success Almost Always comes down to your prep work "Prior" to application...🤷🏼♂️
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice shot dad and good job on the gun.
Thanks Chris!
Great content, the old Diana air rifle is far from obsolete and definitely deserves an overhaul. I am sure that it has fallen into the right hands.
Like an Old Anglia ! Built like a Bloody Tank and just lasts forever !!! 😌
I really needed this video! I’ve been thinking about cold bluing a few pieces in My collection. Thank You very much.
You can do a decent job cold bluing a gun but it'll never look like hot salt bluing. As long as you're OK with that, go for it! Thanks Richard.
For small parts and Buggered screws and the like you can put a dilute mixture of Selenical acid in a small bottle and soak them for 15 to 30 min. (After they've been touched up of course, and rinsed with 91% isopropyl) Take em out blot them and oil them and Y'er Good ! 😉👍
Handy for peckered breach screws, triggers, trigger guards, sights, etc
...
"Seriously" rusted screws can be soaked in a 4 to 1 mix of Water & Molasses for a few weeks prior. You'd be shocked how the rust falls away and the black finish you're left to work with ! 😮
Fine old, Vintage parts are hard to come by ! 🤷🏼♂️
Excellent work on one of my all time favorite sport air rifles. A high quality tune kit installation with proper lubrication and the 34 is a smooth, accurate and potent hunter/fun gun. Another fine addition to your collection. Have a great weekend Kevin.
Yes, I put a ARH kit in this one (video to come) delightful rifle. Very powerful and rugged. A quality gun for sure. Thanks as always my friend.
The Mod. 34 is extremely easy to tune well ! 😉👍
Most Diana break barrels of this standard production format are. 🤷🏼♂️ They Always Work, and results are quite predictable. 🙂
@@marcmyers1465 Agreed with 1 caveat. Because the cocking lever isn't articulated, it can result in piston galling in some rifles. Piston buttoning will cure the issue in those examples.
@@thelvadam8916 True, I always hone the cylinder, button, and sleeve the piston, and glide the cocking arm. No metal to metal contact. I'll even dampen the cocking arm with Sorbothane. 😉👍
An inexpensive 2nd. hand rifle leaves a whole lot of wiggle room for Tuning, and Upgrades ! 😃
Even articulated cocking linkages have their own challenges. IE: Clicks & cocking slot galling. 🤷🏼♂️
Hi Kevin,
Thank you for your knowledge, enthusiasm and direction. I like to do my own jobs where possible. Its nice to know we are not totally at the mercy of other people.
With respect to the professionals, sometimes its better if we can do our own mends/fixes as with our own property and passion we normally have more time to spend and love to give, rather than be under pressure to produce and time scales to adhere to.
There's also the satisfaction in producing your own fixes, which is great too.
I only recently found out we could do any kind of blueing at home. I thought we were at the mercy of the gunsmiths, what with the use of the chemicals, etc.
Its was a great instructional video and great commentary and advice too, Kevin.
Best wishes and thank you again.
Take care, my friend.
Thank you Ian. There's a lot of satisfaction to be had in doing things yourself. Thanks as always my friend.
Step aside, Bob Vila! I got some enjoyable education in this episode! I really like your how-to episodes, and all the others, too.
Just what I was hoping to see one day ! So thanks Kevin and good job well done!.
Thanks David!
Nice work there! That was the first time I heard to go less on every preceding coat after the first. Appreciate the tip! I always appreciate your content and your enthusiasm for air rifles as well! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Jacob.and thanks so much for watching, my friend.
Bought some blue off Amazon, found some rust on my webley on the barrel weight, thanks for the video
Glad to be of help, my friend.
Wow I'm impressed, 😮 Thanks for the video , Keep them coming
Thank you, my friend.
many thanks! super clear and well explained
Thanks very much, and thanks for watching.
Great useful video, thank you for sharing, I have an old BSA that I’m going to try and re-do the bluing on now, always enjoy your videos, have a great evening, cheers, Dan.
Thanks Dan. Rebluing an entire gun with this method will yield decent results but it won't compare to a professional, hot salts bluing job.
Good luck my friend and thanks for watching.
Well done 👌like always Kevin.
Good job Kevin and how to blue video! That's an iconic springer you have, Diana 34. Been around a long time and has proven itself. ScottinPa.
Fantastic rifle! Thanks for watching Scott.
These are fine examples for building a Young Man one Helluva Rifle ! 😉👍
I'll be saving this I've tried doing it a couple of times with bad results thanks👍👍👍👍
Thank you and thanks for watching as always my friend.
I've never one this cold bluing process before, mainly because I didn't know how to do it correctly, now that I've taught, I think I'll give this a try.
T'anks Teach! :)
It's ideal for touch up work when a professional repair would be unrealistic.
@@razor1962 This is what I have in m9nd, Thank you again!
That’s amazing, I’m going to give that a try if we can buy this in the UK
Nice job on the blueing 🙂👍
Good one. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks Brian!
Excellent job 👍
thanks for sharing
👏 Congratulations on hitting 3000, Kevin... Well Done !!! 😉👍
Some really good advice there Kevin. Any future cold bluing I may have to do will be better for this video. I have been told that pre-warming the steel with a heat gun or hair dryer before applying the blue will enhance the finish. Thanks for the video.
Someone else mentioned heating the steel too. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for watching Terrence.
@@razor1962 That's a lot easier when the rifles torn down... 🤔
Great job Kevin. This one I saved in my favorits and sheared it with my group. Thanks.
Nice tip to keep your gun looking great.
Thank you very much Kevin. This video will come in very handy for me. I will definitely refer back to it when refinishing my rifles.
Stay Safe. Be Well. GOD BLESS.
Thanks Ken and thanks for watching.
Nice and thanks. Now i can re-blue some spots on a Weihrauch i have. Which i worked on but in the process i have some blueing taken off.
So glad to hear that you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Nice Kevin , I have done touch ups with cold blue a long time ago , good old brownells! 😎👍🏻
Thanks Peter. Brownells has a lot of my money....
@@razor1962 boy do I know that feeling, I bought a lot years ago as well .
For mild rust on a smooth surface try the Mr. Clean 'Magic Eraser '.
I certainly will give that a try. Those things work on everything else. I'm curious now as to how they'd do on light surface rust. Thanks for the tip!
Two years ago I restored an old 1975 Weihrauch HW50 including the stock. It looks just beautiful, I used Bisley brand oxidizer to blue all the metal, but the blue is disappearing in some places in the barrel and in the compression tube. I'm thinking of sending it to a gunsmith to have it professionally blued.
Hi Carlos. No cold blue on earth can rival the durability and longevity of a professional, hot salts bluing job. A professional rebluing is always preferable but not always affordable. Thanks as always my friend.
Thanks for that it's a handy tip 👍
Thanks for watching my friend.
wow, awesome work, I will try my as well!
Thank you my friend.
Looks good right now. The manufacturer actually recommends a warm water rinse of the area after each application. Then, a final dry and oil application.
Thanks Rodney. I've used the rinse method in the past. I prefer the results without the rinse and haven't had any issues over time. Thanks so much for watching my friend.
@@razor1962 I like the build quality on those Diana’s, but I can’t hit a barn door with a springer.
I've found the oil method to be more reliable. The water rinsing method can occasionally be blotchy depending on the prior prep work. 🤷🏼♂️
@RODNEY PREWITT The challenge is the reward...😊
Fantastic job! 👏 👍
Thank you, Mark, and thanks for watching.
Great minds think alike , I was just going to comment on using the wire wheel on a dremel when you pulled it out Kevin, i've had good results with the usa made cold blue by tetra gun, I find they all work better if you warm the parts first to about almost too hot too hold.
Heat huh? Never heard of that before. It sounds very interesting. I'll definitely give it a try thanks as always my friend.
@@razor1962 Any time pal, I still think it was kinda dumb for diana to finish the top of the breech like that, it's a moisture trap for sure & I bet a lot of them end up rusty there. Sounds like you've tuned that one by the shot sound & also pretty pokey by how quick the shot rang the bell!
@@junglie They did that for various specialty sights so the length could be adjusted . 😉 Mostly on older rifles. Diana did offer many different sight sets in the past.
i did some complete guns a d 16 and 35 with a product from ballistol Schnell brunierung und kalt entfetter ,fast bluing and cold degreasser in englisch,one layer enough
Interesting. I'll have to see if it's available in my neck of the woods. Thanks so much for watching my friend.
My diana 34 is stamped 10 00, about to turn 23yrs old. Never tuned mine, curious to see how yours turned out.
There's a video coming soon where I install an ARH kit in the 34. Thanks for watching my friend.
So you only need to wait a few seconds in between coats?
*Looking good!*
The results are almost instantaneous.
I am looking at ceracoting all mine
A much more permanent, durable and professional looking option.
@@razor1962 this aere 2 people how i inspet vab a airgun!!!!No landingbaan in flo and a stupif orange red for korrel oldschool sorry wheb people hurt how like like thuis!!!! i dont meen it for me a gun like slavia
thank you nibs and mister +Kevinlikev thevhw 30s havev a good evin !!!!!
Nice Video... Lipstick 101: 😉👍
Thanks Marc!
Hello
Im think of buying a hw 77 but dont know what is better 77k or 77 long vs shorter barrel what is better and why my english is not thr best..
Greetings from the Netherlands
That's a matter of personal preference. Either configuration should be awesome. I own a 97K and it's a good length. It shoots better than I do.
Thanks for watching my friend.
@@razor1962 Thanks for the reply, im getting the K i think nice and short more easy in use i think.. nice and relaxing channel to watch!
"If" you can find one, the HW77 Long barrel in the Original 25mm format had Superior Accuracy and pretty much invented the sport of Field Target all by itself ! 😉👍 They are getting increasingly harder to find these days, but do show up from time to time. 😌 I tend to buy them on sight, rat hole them, and build the living snot out'a them !!! 😃👍
FWIW: I found my last one right over there in the Netherlands. 😉
Thanks for the info, I've got to do a little cold blueing, not had the best success the once I tried it. What do you think of the cold blue 'creams'
Hi Mick. It's been a long time since I used the cream form. As I recall, the results were similar.
@@razor1962 thanks
Oxpho Blue cream rubbed in with a bit of 0000 steel wool is Very Nice !!! 😃👍
I've redone a few Olde Match rifles this way, and the results were Very Close to Master Bluing. 🤯
Did an Ancient Well Loved HW55M last year, It was a labor of love... In the end I polished and blued the piston Just Fer Grins ! 😂
Can I ask, What is the total investment in the rifle w/ the tune kit etc... to date ? 🤔
About $350.00
@@razor1962 Nice ! 😉👌
I would have removed the rear sight, first.
Probably would've been a good idea. That's for watching, my friend.
you should have removed the rear sight
Yeah, probably so David. The rust didn't extend underneath the sight but I managed to hit the sight base while using the wire wheel. Left a little mark. Could've been avoided had I removed it.
Thanks for watching my friend.
i thinking a verry time een red appel with bsuiker on for schoothing of his heis wit myn slavia, evrei t!mbi sayitb i smelthingn somting rond hin and its nots frei smelthing !!!!!! greethings nibs,with all myn love koenraad
Hi Koenraad! Thanks as always my friend.
Yes let see it in 2weeks ! It tryed this on so menny guns it looks good for a bit the gos shit after 2week 😢 hot blue is better
While cold blue can never match a professional, hot salts bluing job, it will last for many years if well cared for. A good protective oil will wipe away finger prints and airborne moisture which can lead to fading and surface rust.
Try using the Oxpho Blue Cream, and rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool next time. You can do repeated treatments until you arrive at the depth of finish you're looking for... 😉👍
Always wipe it down with oil after each treatment to fix the finish, even if you have to wipe it down with 91% Isopropyl before the next application. The oil is to fix the finish. 😉
This has worked for me for over Two Decades now. 🤷🏼♂️
There's a difference between touch up repairs and Re-Bluing. Nobody wants to mix up a fresh tank of hot salts for a repair. 😧
Even the Touch-up Bluing pens work well if you lightly buff them out with 0000 and do multiple applications till you get it where you want. Always work as small as possible for touch-ups and buff it to blend it in. Pens are handy for nicks and scratches. 🙂 Ultimately success Almost Always comes down to your prep work "Prior" to application...🤷🏼♂️
Thanks for sharing