I also live in New Jersey in about the middle of West of Atlantic City and east of Philadelphia. I have had mine disconnected for about six years now. Just to let you know, I hunt in Maine and a little hunting in Canada and other northern states. I have wake up to freezing weather 16 below. With no problems starting the truck. You do have to plug in your truck. When it’s that cold. I’ve had no problems.
Another aspect of this potential failure is the grid heater solenoid being energized to permit current flowing through the heater element and the solenoid “freezing” in the energized position. This leads to extremely high and unregulated temps resulting in grid / terminal failure. Improved solenoid upgrades are available.
yes,, and no.. yes, if you just hit the button once,, no if you hit the button twice at start bypassing the pre heat part.. at least on my 2017 3500 laramie, BOD of 8-2016..
As I understand it, heat, vibration and corrosion lead to loosening of the terminal within the intake plenum. Once the terminal has even slightly loosened, the high amperage supplying the grid heater, ( 200+ amps) results in arcing at the terminal which progressively worsens and can eventually melting the stud/nut and dropping into intake. Provided your terminal is still tight, ( wiggle test) disconnecting the power lead from the bstttery will greatly reduce the chances of a failure. This will certainly buy you time. Ultimately the best solution is to remove that grid heater design snd its associated hardware.
I also live in New Jersey in about the middle of West of Atlantic City and east of Philadelphia. I have had mine disconnected for about six years now.
Just to let you know, I hunt in Maine and a little hunting in Canada and other northern states. I have wake up to freezing weather 16 below. With no problems starting the truck. You do have to plug in your truck. When it’s that cold. I’ve had no problems.
Good to hear no issues. Yes I plug it in when it gets cold.
Thank you for your video!.
I'll doing that same work today on my 2013 2500 SLT with about 45.000 miles.
Good
Another aspect of this potential failure is the grid heater solenoid being energized to permit current flowing through the heater element and the solenoid “freezing” in the energized position. This leads to extremely high and unregulated temps resulting in grid / terminal failure. Improved solenoid upgrades are available.
Yes, we are all better without any kind of this grid heater.
Does it throw codes when you do this?
yes,, and no.. yes, if you just hit the button once,, no if you hit the button twice at start bypassing the pre heat part.. at least on my 2017 3500 laramie, BOD of 8-2016..
When you turn the key dont let it get to the grid heater cycle, just two beeps and crank it. any longer it may throw a code.
What about with push start?
No push start, it s tradesman
You realize the corrosion of the grid heater will not stop from disconnecting it will continue to degrade.
As I understand it, heat, vibration and corrosion lead to loosening of the terminal within the intake plenum.
Once the terminal has even slightly loosened, the high amperage supplying the grid heater, ( 200+ amps) results in arcing at the terminal which progressively worsens and can eventually melting the stud/nut and dropping into intake.
Provided your terminal is still tight, ( wiggle test) disconnecting the power lead from the bstttery will greatly reduce the chances of a failure. This will certainly buy you time.
Ultimately the best solution is to remove that grid heater design snd its associated hardware.
Exactly