Lovely video and awesome solution! Will you be releasing plans for it (the entire cabinet, obviously)? I'd love to have this in my shop. I hate doors, I always hit my head on them, but I can't just remove the doors, too dusty...
@@JustinDepew Yeah, I wasnt thinking of detailed plans per say, just something like "inside width/height/depth of cabinets, here's the plan for the panel, here's the parts used...hehe :)
*Awesome project. And thanks for showing the finished project at the beginning as it makes it so much easier to follow along.* It also means that, unlike so many other woodworking videos that insist on having a surprising reveal at the end that I don't have to jump to the end of the video first to see if it is something that I'm interested in which is just plain irritating. Showing the end result early in the video is very much appreciated.
Very cool build. I have to admit that when I saw how long the video was I almost didn't click but it was fun seeing all of the hand crafting that went into this - especially the CNCed aluminum. Well done!
seeing your unique perspective on what seems to be a problem many other shop guys have is always fun and allows for new ideas to come into frame. thank you for being a cool dude and showing us cool solutions all the time
I really love the view of the camera inside the dust shoe i've never seen this before in a TH-cam video. I hope you keep using this feature I really like it.
I love this idea. My shop is small and having doors open into it could be an issue! I like that there is a positive close and a soft open. I might modify it to use the tension of simple springs, instead of the pressurized rods. Saving your video for future reference, and subbing.
Years ago I saw a product with a similar design, but for the opposite purpose. It helped you store stuff up on top of your cabinets in a bin that was attached via mechanism similar to yours, plus gas pistons to pull it back up when you let go. Since then I've seen similar systems for kitchen cabinets, but never for garage storage.
that was a fun project and it turned out great! I think the additional side walls that you mentioned at the end of the video will help with the slop a lot too.
Just an improvement thought for next time... Make the aluminum parts like a small bow tie and do the cut out for it on the backside of the panel. That way you only need the single bolt through the wood instead of 3 extra bolts through each part. Great idea and look to copy it with the modification as stated. Keep up the great work.
Flipping the storage on the door to the outside is expected... Given a CNC machine, I,d expect that the build would be in metal, rather than plywood. Consider the interior volume of that cabinet sacrificed to the convenience of the lifting door. Could this be done more compactly using gas-shock-braked (soft-close) drawer slides, pivoting at one end and constrained at the other with another gas shock?
I have been woodworking for 30 years now. I am still amazed at how much I have learned in the past couple of years on TH-cam with all of the "mad scientist" woodworker creators out there. At first, I was sort of meh about this idea, but the more I watched, the more I appreciated your absolute creative genius. By the end, I was really enthused with the way this cabinet door opens now. Anyway, I was already subbed, but liked vid. Thanks for your content.
I greatly admire the skill level and effort that went into this build. Like someone else mentioned, you're losing the oversight of the storage functionality on the inside of the door, and personally I love being able to see all my stuff in a single field of view. Hmmm. But like you said, you're they guy that needs to be able to work efficiently and enjoyably in that shop, and you would know best what the best solution is. Like I said, great build and nice video, too. Kind regards from a Canadian in The Netherlands.
Для уменьшения габаритов механизма (и увеличения внутреннего объёма шкафа) можно вертикальные планки, которые крепятся к фасаду, закрепить со стороны стенок шкафа, а не со стороны внутреннего объёма. Рядом с нишей для газлифта в этой стенке выбирается объём для этих планок. Планки крепятся винтами с потайной головкой. В круглых металлических гайках также выбирается металл под головку болта от оси, чтобы он не торчал. И крепления под газлифт тоже можно перекинуть на внутреннюю сторону, чтобы они не торчали внутрь шкафа, за счёт фрезеровки под них фальшстенки с механизмом.
FANTASTIC !! From the other comments, I see you have made other videos, but this is the first one I have seen. You are right up there with Matthias Wandel for innovation. Charge on !
Over engineered is NOT a new concept to so many of us! This is such a study in creativity and skill and use of experience to come up with a really cool shop project! Your usage of aluminum and improving what needed improvement shows a skill level I appreciated through your whole video. I just subbed to see more of what you do!
First time seeing your videos. I like how you describe what you are doing/how you are doing it up front unlike many other 'builders' that start cutting parts etc, spend half the video showing them paint/stain whatever it is and you only find out how useful/useless it is right at the end. I will be watching more even though my building skills/activities are very limited. 🙂
Great Project, Justin - Very well-done video! I and my wife enjoyed what you accomplished here. There is no limit to the creativity of solving simple challenges. Keep providing the great content. Lowell
I've been a fan of yours since the early duplex days, and just a couple days ago I was going through my old subs and wondering if you had dropped off the platform. Glad to see another video from you!
Just an idea, maybe? A tension spring between the upper and lower arms to keep tension in the arms would reduce racking. Say one connection point be the lower door/ arm pivot point and the other connection point be in the upper arm between the elbow and door. The reason I think that would work is you have created a similar hing to that of hood hinges on cars and truck back from the sixties to mid eighties. And they where always under tension. Great job!
23:00 Hm, you could even fit 2 synchronization shafts behind the door if 1 shaft is not stiff enough. For the soft-close it could work to add some kind of foam-cylinder / pipe-insulation around the gas-cylinder rods. The gas-cylinders are almost fully contracted when the door is closed so it could work to add something just in the right size.
First I've found your channel. Super impressed by your dust collection system! Time to scour your videos to see if you've got a video on how you've set it all up. Cheers!
Brilliant as usual, if u flip the sides it will both prevent the wiggling and u wont have to build sides to hang shelves on and all the rubbing will be invisible
Cool project! 😊 - I was thinking the same as you mentioned at the end of the video, about internal side panels - I think you should use Perspex for that as it would be cool to see the mechanisms, rather than fully enclose and hide them away!
Part 'B' = Accommodation for your drill bits on the inside of the door with access from the outside from the lowered door. Maybe an uprated gas strut to carry the extra weight. Great Job.
Love that door mechanism. Very much over-built on the alloy 'T' nuts, but a very handy setup. As for the wobble, the arms are plywood and only half the grain is adding any strength. Before any significant mods, I'd try making the arms from hardwood. The elbow could be a half lap with an extra cleat. And maybe have the arms run against a strip on the cabinet sides. All simple mods to trial before adding braces or cross rails.
Your presentation and execution are great! I do notice this configuration doesn't let you store stuff on the inside of the door the way you had it before though. However, it's very cool to see you satisfy the "door doesn't get in the way" requirement so thoroughly. Well done!
A very neat job indeed. I am looking forward to see how you manage to stiffen up those linkages - cross bracing or even boxing, on the door might just help.
Great! I just love the quality of the design and implementation. And we love over-engineering! It must be so satisfying every time you open and close that cabinet door! 🙂
14:46 I was wondering why you didn't countersink those bolts that would have been pushed up against the sides of the cabinet, but the spacers create the clearance so they wouldn't scrape those surfaces. Two birds with one stone! EDIT: Also I'm very impressed with how you hung the cabinet door! I would have spent a week chasing my own tail figuring out how to do that.
fantastic. overengineering is awesome lol. one suggestion, it looks like the top and bottom arms touch when fully opened, just stick on some silicone bumpers (used for stopping cabinets from slamming shut) at the points of contact.
the reason the dust shoot is working so well with the opening is because there is easy excess for air to flow into the dust shoe then up the exit tube to the vacumm
Great to see you back Justin, excellent build and video! Could those additional side panels for organisation be used to stiffen up the arms somehow, a track guided bearing or something? Look forward to seeing the next installment
Nice to see you back making content. Wondered like a week ago why I hadn't seen any of your videos for quite a while and now know why. 1. YT Unsubscribed me from your channel 2. YOu haven't posted anything to public viewing in a year :)
22:18 There at the top would be a possible place for a synchronization shaft. Maybe use a steel tube and cut its hull like a "T" on the ends. Cut the stem of the "T" into the tube along the axial axis of the tube and as long as the thickness of the arms. Then cut the crossbar of the "T" so that the arms just fit if the material is bend outwards. Bend the material and remove nothing and use the bend sheet-metal to drill holes and attach it to the arms. I guess it would be really strong because you can easily fit 10 small screws around the arms and they would be arranged almost in a circle.
Great build, I would assume building new sidewalls for the shelves would also cause the lifting arms less slop in the up and down motion keeping them sandwiched inbetween the panels.
Well done! I got some very old kitchen cabinets for free and one of the cabinets has a similar system, but with springs. I have a low ceiling, this folds partly over the top of the cabinet. Downside is that you can't store anything on top of the cabinet, upside is the low footprint inside and outside the cabinet
@@JustinDepew Unfortunately there's no brand or company name on it. I do Know it's a Bruynzeel kitchen, probably Seventies. Particle board, but really heavy quality, especially the doors.
Hi 👋, Justin, that was a great and very interesting project, you might already know that there is a company called Blum, they make door and draw activators, Aventos , I have the similar system, what you have built, which is a great sense of achievement, On my bathroom cabinet doors, but I purchased around 13/14 years ago and they’re still working perfectly,, and they even got the soft clothes mechanism already built-in, and you can pre-load the closing time and the softness of the clothes as well, I hope this can be some help to you, I am/was specialist joiner cabinet maker from the UK, retired in 2018, in 2019, I then moved to France, I wish you all that success for the future , and a happy New Year, 🥳, Phil from the moulin France
You have a new subscriber, Justin! This is a really cool idea and wonderfully executed. I love the (over)engineering and the clear, concise way you walked us through the process. Great video production quality with some interesting camera work, too. I may try to replicate this in my shop; I’m wondering if I could eliminate those side panels and attach the linkages directly to the sides of the cabinets. That eliminates the pockets for the gas shocks but maybe I could use a spring (centered at the top) with a magnetic latch at the bottom to keep it closed. In addition to simplifying everything, you’d regain a little of that lost space. As I was watching, I was thinking about the space you were losing - and how you’ll be losing even more by building the necessary shelf structure inside. Two things occurred to me- 1) In lieu of shelves, you could use a French cleat container system (perfect for all the hardware you keep in there), building custom containers to maximize the cabinet depth. 2) You could do a version 2.0 where you start with an internal shelf unit, incorporating into its sides the recesses you need for those gas shocks - then mount your mechanisms to the outside of the shelf structure. That makes it a freestanding unit that can be mounted inside the cabinet with just a couple screws each at the top and bottom into the back of the cabinet. Again, you’d regain a little of the lost space this way. Less material waste/cost, too. OK, I’m off to check out your other videos now! ; )
Great idea... if you have cathedral ceilings. Me thinks the best idea for this application, with minimal clearances all around, would be to have a front panel that rolls back, like a roll-top desk. However, you sacrifice storage on the reverse of the front rolling panel, unlike a solid swinging door. Amazing engineering and craftsmanship went into this project, though.
Nice idea - would work for a tool (spindle sander etc) lift out with much beefier hardware. I have a set of cabs that is hinged at the top with gas springs and magnetic strips on the door so stuff hangs down from it. Mixed bag with that design too if the door slams shut : ) I really liked your Mach4 Screen layout. I'm gonna have to figure out how to do that.
The dust boot works so well due to the hole allowing cross air flow through. As a result the extractor doesn't have to work so hard to pull the air through the brush either.
Yours is a Neat idea, I’m not as accomplished as you but you gave me what I think may accomplish the same thing. Hinge the door at the top to open out and up with a gas strut from auto zone to keep it open?
You mentioned that you lost space on the sides of your cabinet but you also lost the space on the door. While the outside of the has a nice door has a nice finished, this is a shop cabinet and you could mount the bits you had on the outside of the door. A couple of nice cleats would work well even if only as a temporary holder for the bits for when e are doing work that requires the bits. Good video and nice job. Happy Motoring and Happy Woodworking.
Cool project! I think some of the wobble could be reduced using some plastic guides on those side panels you plan to add. One on each side with very tight tolerance to the beams would keep one side or the other getting too far off centerline. Another option would be to have the lower arm extend further past the hinge point towards the back of the cabinet, and have a track there for a roller, so that the arm isn't as cantilevered but instead will have two points of support. A V roller would be best but even just a simple little wheel or something could work. And then if it was attached in a manner that allows some movement, like with a spring plunger maybe, you could even have the track be a cam slot such that the roller engages that track with more or less tension along the travel so that it acts a bit like a soft close.
by adding the sidewalls to build your storage, you could limit the side to side motion of the lever arms. That would reduce the wobble in the door. Maybe.
Hey, I'm new to your channel. I just wanted to say about the t-nut - see if you can find a video where Matthias Wandel is using t-nuts. After he taps them in with the tines, he drills a small hole or two right up beside the t-nut to put a small screw into to hold it in place. It's plenty strong enough at that point.
Looks great, was wondering how you were going to address the items that were previously attached to the inside of the door? Guess I'll have to watch the next installment.
if you make inside walls, they can stiffen your wobble problem. also you could recess some guides for the arms in that shelving walls by adding some ball tipped bolts in the arms, or just fit the arms themselves to rub in the recess. i do not know if wax gonna help with wood on wood rubbing tho, with all that lifting power. either way sandwiching the arms will help i think.
If you extend the part that that attaches to the right side of the cabinet door… you can add original hinges back so it can open like it did before AND lift up.😊
For future viewers, you should consider addinging 'Lifter" to the title of this video so that when people become curious about this design and have a keyword to look for, they can easily find the video on your channel. Fun project!
Mid-roll ads disabled :) enjoy the video!
Lovely video and awesome solution! Will you be releasing plans for it (the entire cabinet, obviously)? I'd love to have this in my shop. I hate doors, I always hit my head on them, but I can't just remove the doors, too dusty...
I noticed it was uninterrupted. Nice.
@@PunkR0ckz09 thanks! I probably won't do plans unless there is a lot of interest. It's a lot of work to make plans!
Not necessary, it's worth waiting. And you have to be paid for your hard work. These videos don't make themselves.
@@JustinDepew Yeah, I wasnt thinking of detailed plans per say, just something like "inside width/height/depth of cabinets, here's the plan for the panel, here's the parts used...hehe :)
*Awesome project. And thanks for showing the finished project at the beginning as it makes it so much easier to follow along.*
It also means that, unlike so many other woodworking videos that insist on having a surprising reveal at the end that I don't have to jump to the end of the video first to see if it is something that I'm interested in which is just plain irritating.
Showing the end result early in the video is very much appreciated.
Thank you for that feedback!
Very cool build. I have to admit that when I saw how long the video was I almost didn't click but it was fun seeing all of the hand crafting that went into this - especially the CNCed aluminum. Well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
seeing your unique perspective on what seems to be a problem many other shop guys have is always fun and allows for new ideas to come into frame. thank you for being a cool dude and showing us cool solutions all the time
I appreciate that!
Glad to see you making videos again, Justin! Hope you make many more!
I really love the view of the camera inside the dust shoe i've never seen this before in a TH-cam video. I hope you keep using this feature I really like it.
Thanks I'm glad you liked that!
wow! You really did a great job on this build… your concept, parts cut, assemblage, install and review! Exceptional! Thanks!
I like the LIFTER graphic on the arm. Its the little details that make it more than awesome!
Awesome project. Really enjoyed hearing the rationale for all of the design choices. Looking forward to seeing the organizers.
I love this idea. My shop is small and having doors open into it could be an issue!
I like that there is a positive close and a soft open. I might modify it to use the tension of simple springs, instead of the pressurized rods.
Saving your video for future reference, and subbing.
You had me at "so I designed an overly engineered ..."
Oh my gosh.....finally someone who actually uses safety implements. Love the guard/sawdust catcher on the saw. Did you make that yourself?
Years ago I saw a product with a similar design, but for the opposite purpose. It helped you store stuff up on top of your cabinets in a bin that was attached via mechanism similar to yours, plus gas pistons to pull it back up when you let go. Since then I've seen similar systems for kitchen cabinets, but never for garage storage.
that was a fun project and it turned out great! I think the additional side walls that you mentioned at the end of the video will help with the slop a lot too.
Just an improvement thought for next time... Make the aluminum parts like a small bow tie and do the cut out for it on the backside of the panel. That way you only need the single bolt through the wood instead of 3 extra bolts through each part. Great idea and look to copy it with the modification as stated. Keep up the great work.
Good idea!
Justin, you've done it again, brought your idea to fruition. Great design and execution.. Thanks for sharing..
your video is great. because you put before and after in the front of totalvideo。good design andvideo🎉🎉❤
Very cool engineering there! Adding the internal shelves might even help with some of the racking.
Flipping the storage on the door to the outside is expected...
Given a CNC machine, I,d expect that the build would be in metal, rather than plywood. Consider the interior volume of that cabinet sacrificed to the convenience of the lifting door.
Could this be done more compactly using gas-shock-braked (soft-close) drawer slides, pivoting at one end and constrained at the other with another gas shock?
I have been woodworking for 30 years now. I am still amazed at how much I have learned in the past couple of years on TH-cam with all of the "mad scientist" woodworker creators out there. At first, I was sort of meh about this idea, but the more I watched, the more I appreciated your absolute creative genius. By the end, I was really enthused with the way this cabinet door opens now. Anyway, I was already subbed, but liked vid. Thanks for your content.
I greatly admire the skill level and effort that went into this build. Like someone else mentioned, you're losing the oversight of the storage functionality on the inside of the door, and personally I love being able to see all my stuff in a single field of view. Hmmm. But like you said, you're they guy that needs to be able to work efficiently and enjoyably in that shop, and you would know best what the best solution is. Like I said, great build and nice video, too. Kind regards from a Canadian in The Netherlands.
Good to see you back around! 😊
Для уменьшения габаритов механизма (и увеличения внутреннего объёма шкафа) можно вертикальные планки, которые крепятся к фасаду, закрепить со стороны стенок шкафа, а не со стороны внутреннего объёма. Рядом с нишей для газлифта в этой стенке выбирается объём для этих планок. Планки крепятся винтами с потайной головкой. В круглых металлических гайках также выбирается металл под головку болта от оси, чтобы он не торчал. И крепления под газлифт тоже можно перекинуть на внутреннюю сторону, чтобы они не торчали внутрь шкафа, за счёт фрезеровки под них фальшстенки с механизмом.
FANTASTIC !! From the other comments, I see you have made other videos, but this is the first one I have seen. You are right up there with Matthias Wandel for innovation. Charge on !
Good to see you back. Happy New Year.
Over engineered is NOT a new concept to so many of us! This is such a study in creativity and skill and use of experience to come up with a really cool shop project! Your usage of aluminum and improving what needed improvement shows a skill level I appreciated through your whole video. I just subbed to see more of what you do!
Finally, someone who gets it!
Neat but lost storage room........
First time seeing your videos. I like how you describe what you are doing/how you are doing it up front unlike many other 'builders' that start cutting parts etc, spend half the video showing them paint/stain whatever it is and you only find out how useful/useless it is right at the end.
I will be watching more even though my building skills/activities are very limited. 🙂
I appreciate the feedback!
Precise. Ingenious. Lotta work, but worth it when you consider the hundreds of operations and the durability.
Great Project, Justin - Very well-done video! I and my wife enjoyed what you accomplished here. There is no limit to the creativity of solving simple challenges.
Keep providing the great content.
Lowell
Awesome! Thank you!
Impressive...the logic for creating the parallel motion. Learned a few tricks from your assembly too. Nice clean job. Thanks.
I've been a fan of yours since the early duplex days, and just a couple days ago I was going through my old subs and wondering if you had dropped off the platform. Glad to see another video from you!
Thanks for sticking around!
Just an idea, maybe? A tension spring between the upper and lower arms to keep tension in the arms would reduce racking. Say one connection point be the lower door/ arm pivot point and the other connection point be in the upper arm between the elbow and door. The reason I think that would work is you have created a similar hing to that of hood hinges on cars and truck back from the sixties to mid eighties. And they where always under tension.
Great job!
Interesting idea! I will consider that.
23:00 Hm, you could even fit 2 synchronization shafts behind the door if 1 shaft is not stiff enough. For the soft-close it could work to add some kind of foam-cylinder / pipe-insulation around the gas-cylinder rods. The gas-cylinders are almost fully contracted when the door is closed so it could work to add something just in the right size.
Great use of the CNC and love the dust shoe camera 😊
Thanks I'm glad you liked that!
First I've found your channel. Super impressed by your dust collection system! Time to scour your videos to see if you've got a video on how you've set it all up. Cheers!
Brilliant as usual, if u flip the sides it will both prevent the wiggling and u wont have to build sides to hang shelves on and all the rubbing will be invisible
I love your creative process and build quality! Instant fan and subscriber.
Cool project! 😊 - I was thinking the same as you mentioned at the end of the video, about internal side panels - I think you should use Perspex for that as it would be cool to see the mechanisms, rather than fully enclose and hide them away!
Part 'B' = Accommodation for your drill bits on the inside of the door with access from the outside from the lowered door. Maybe an uprated gas strut to carry the extra weight. Great Job.
Love that door mechanism. Very much over-built on the alloy 'T' nuts, but a very handy setup.
As for the wobble, the arms are plywood and only half the grain is adding any strength. Before any significant mods, I'd try making the arms from hardwood. The elbow could be a half lap with an extra cleat. And maybe have the arms run against a strip on the cabinet sides. All simple mods to trial before adding braces or cross rails.
Your presentation and execution are great! I do notice this configuration doesn't let you store stuff on the inside of the door the way you had it before though. However, it's very cool to see you satisfy the "door doesn't get in the way" requirement so thoroughly. Well done!
A very neat job indeed. I am looking forward to see how you manage to stiffen up those linkages - cross bracing or even boxing, on the door might just help.
So wish you would produce more vids.. great idea
Absolutely great design and very high quality workmanship.
Great! I just love the quality of the design and implementation. And we love over-engineering! It must be so satisfying every time you open and close that cabinet door! 🙂
Wow! My kind of solution to an issue - overly complicated and takes a good amount of time to implement. But the end result is so satisfying!
Make the swing arms out of aluminum as well, that will avoid the wabble, thank you for sharing, lots of fun to watch
Yeah, if I have troubles with the wood arms I will probably switch to aluminum.
My wife leaves kitchen cabinet doors open while she works and I've often thought this style door would be more appropriate for a kitchen.
Very impressive, and well thought out design! Good on you that would have been quite a challenge to think through.
Great job, wish you would make plans for that
14:46 I was wondering why you didn't countersink those bolts that would have been pushed up against the sides of the cabinet, but the spacers create the clearance so they wouldn't scrape those surfaces. Two birds with one stone!
EDIT: Also I'm very impressed with how you hung the cabinet door! I would have spent a week chasing my own tail figuring out how to do that.
Very clever! Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing how you organize that space!!
fantastic. overengineering is awesome lol. one suggestion, it looks like the top and bottom arms touch when fully opened, just stick on some silicone bumpers (used for stopping cabinets from slamming shut) at the points of contact.
Love this. Clever super simple effective upgrades like this are my favorite. I want my own now!
the reason the dust shoot is working so well with the opening is because there is easy excess for air to flow into the dust shoe then up the exit tube to the vacumm
Great to see you back Justin, excellent build and video! Could those additional side panels for organisation be used to stiffen up the arms somehow, a track guided bearing or something? Look forward to seeing the next installment
Great project. Nice job on the vid. Fun to see your pleasure at the job well done.
Nice to see you back making content. Wondered like a week ago why I hadn't seen any of your videos for quite a while and now know why.
1. YT Unsubscribed me from your channel
2. YOu haven't posted anything to public viewing in a year :)
22:18 There at the top would be a possible place for a synchronization shaft. Maybe use a steel tube and cut its hull like a "T" on the ends. Cut the stem of the "T" into the tube along the axial axis of the tube and as long as the thickness of the arms. Then cut the crossbar of the "T" so that the arms just fit if the material is bend outwards. Bend the material and remove nothing and use the bend sheet-metal to drill holes and attach it to the arms. I guess it would be really strong because you can easily fit 10 small screws around the arms and they would be arranged almost in a circle.
Great build, I would assume building new sidewalls for the shelves would also cause the lifting arms less slop in the up and down motion keeping them sandwiched inbetween the panels.
Well done! I got some very old kitchen cabinets for free and one of the cabinets has a similar system, but with springs. I have a low ceiling, this folds partly over the top of the cabinet. Downside is that you can't store anything on top of the cabinet, upside is the low footprint inside and outside the cabinet
Sounds like cool hardware. Do you know who makes it?
@@JustinDepew Unfortunately there's no brand or company name on it. I do Know it's a Bruynzeel kitchen, probably Seventies. Particle board, but really heavy quality, especially the doors.
I seriously love your channel and dig your mind.
Hi, very good job and idea ! Congratulations
Hi 👋, Justin, that was a great and very interesting project, you might already know that there is a company called Blum, they make door and draw activators, Aventos , I have the similar system, what you have built, which is a great sense of achievement, On my bathroom cabinet doors, but I purchased around 13/14 years ago and they’re still working perfectly,, and they even got the soft clothes mechanism already built-in, and you can pre-load the closing time and the softness of the clothes as well, I hope this can be some help to you, I am/was specialist joiner cabinet maker from the UK, retired in 2018, in 2019, I then moved to France,
I wish you all that success for the future , and a happy New Year, 🥳, Phil from the moulin France
You have a new subscriber, Justin! This is a really cool idea and wonderfully executed. I love the (over)engineering and the clear, concise way you walked us through the process. Great video production quality with some interesting camera work, too. I may try to replicate this in my shop; I’m wondering if I could eliminate those side panels and attach the linkages directly to the sides of the cabinets. That eliminates the pockets for the gas shocks but maybe I could use a spring (centered at the top) with a magnetic latch at the bottom to keep it closed. In addition to simplifying everything, you’d regain a little of that lost space. As I was watching, I was thinking about the space you were losing - and how you’ll be losing even more by building the necessary shelf structure inside. Two things occurred to me- 1) In lieu of shelves, you could use a French cleat container system (perfect for all the hardware you keep in there), building custom containers to maximize the cabinet depth. 2) You could do a version 2.0 where you start with an internal shelf unit, incorporating into its sides the recesses you need for those gas shocks - then mount your mechanisms to the outside of the shelf structure. That makes it a freestanding unit that can be mounted inside the cabinet with just a couple screws each at the top and bottom into the back of the cabinet. Again, you’d regain a little of the lost space this way. Less material waste/cost, too. OK, I’m off to check out your other videos now! ; )
Great idea... if you have cathedral ceilings.
Me thinks the best idea for this application, with minimal clearances all around, would be to have a front panel that rolls back, like a roll-top desk. However, you sacrifice storage on the reverse of the front rolling panel, unlike a solid swinging door.
Amazing engineering and craftsmanship went into this project, though.
Nice idea - would work for a tool (spindle sander etc) lift out with much beefier hardware. I have a set of cabs that is hinged at the top with gas springs and magnetic strips on the door so stuff hangs down from it. Mixed bag with that design too if the door slams shut : ) I really liked your Mach4 Screen layout. I'm gonna have to figure out how to do that.
Thanks! The Mach4 screen is custom. Takes a while to make, but you can do it yourself. It's a little tedious but it works.
Great job, I love 4 bar linkages
Great job very cool how you made all the parts
Looks like you helped the vac with the gap. Nice.
Very nice! First time viewer, now a subscriber.👍
I saw one guy put his CNC table vertically on the wall and it was super clean with all the chips falling to the ground at the bottom for easy clean up
That is so cool. Great ingenuity! Thanks for sharing with us all.
Thanks for watching!
The dust boot works so well due to the hole allowing cross air flow through. As a result the extractor doesn't have to work so hard to pull the air through the brush either.
Yours is a Neat idea,
I’m not as accomplished as you but you gave me what I think may accomplish the same thing.
Hinge the door at the top to open out and up with a gas strut from auto zone to keep it open?
You mentioned that you lost space on the sides of your cabinet but you also lost the space on the door. While the outside of the has a nice door has a nice finished, this is a shop cabinet and you could mount the bits you had on the outside of the door. A couple of nice cleats would work well even if only as a temporary holder for the bits for when e are doing work that requires the bits. Good video and nice job. Happy Motoring and Happy Woodworking.
Cool project!
I think some of the wobble could be reduced using some plastic guides on those side panels you plan to add. One on each side with very tight tolerance to the beams would keep one side or the other getting too far off centerline.
Another option would be to have the lower arm extend further past the hinge point towards the back of the cabinet, and have a track there for a roller, so that the arm isn't as cantilevered but instead will have two points of support. A V roller would be best but even just a simple little wheel or something could work. And then if it was attached in a manner that allows some movement, like with a spring plunger maybe, you could even have the track be a cam slot such that the roller engages that track with more or less tension along the travel so that it acts a bit like a soft close.
Super job.....a great lesson in imagining solutions at every step. tHanks for a great video. Happy New Year to all !
Nicely done buddy! Well thought out
Fun idea. It seems to me that those sidewalls would be a good place to conceal guides that make the closing more stable laterally.
Yes, good idea!
by adding the sidewalls to build your storage, you could limit the side to side motion of the lever arms. That would reduce the wobble in the door. Maybe.
Great job wouldn't the new inner side panels take some of the side to side movement out for you.
Hey, I'm new to your channel. I just wanted to say about the t-nut - see if you can find a video where Matthias Wandel is using t-nuts. After he taps them in with the tines, he drills a small hole or two right up beside the t-nut to put a small screw into to hold it in place. It's plenty strong enough at that point.
Looks great, was wondering how you were going to address the items that were previously attached to the inside of the door? Guess I'll have to watch the next installment.
Genius!😀👍🏻
if you make inside walls, they can stiffen your wobble problem. also you could recess some guides for the arms in that shelving walls by adding some ball tipped bolts in the arms, or just fit the arms themselves to rub in the recess. i do not know if wax gonna help with wood on wood rubbing tho, with all that lifting power. either way sandwiching the arms will help i think.
Amazing, very clever and motivating. BTW what is the cnc router used on the video?
Very intelligent. Excellent idea and execution. Thanks or sharing - thumbs up!
Good job bro. Thinking outside the box
What about the use of your regular door as a storage of other tools as you have behind it right now?
I think you felt in love your work shop room more than some one else has ha .
If you extend the part that that attaches to the right side of the cabinet door… you can add original hinges back so it can open like it did before AND lift up.😊
Now there's a cool idea!
For future viewers, you should consider addinging 'Lifter" to the title of this video so that when people become curious about this design and have a keyword to look for, they can easily find the video on your channel. Fun project!
Hi Justin. Love the video. Do you sell the templates for the door system on this video. Thanks
Super good and amazing job ! Great !
I think this is a good job. Waiting for more. Regards!
Absolutely amazing!!! well thought out…
Have a Happy New Year’s!!!!
I hope to see a follow up. Would love to see how to make this close softly
This is a great mechanism!!! Do you have measurements for the linkage?
Nice job Justin
Nice project, well made too, only now you miss the storing space on the inside of the door. Curious as to how you will solve that.