*****EDIT Aug 12, 2021***** Tip #3 Pricing was given in error. $15usd is representative of stock Traxxas diff ring and pinion set. The overdrive set is closer to $35……..still a great upgrade!
Great video! Just wondering if you are recommending to OD the front AND UD the rear? Or is it a one or the other choice but not both? Thanks (newbie here)…
@@Santaheckler Doing one of them is always good. Doing both is probably better for serious "crawling", but less suitable for running on paths and such. My only objection here is that Sonoran's emphasis is on overdriving the front whereas (only) underdriving the rear will have the same effect.
Great info! Some of the best content on TRX4 diy and free mods I’ve found. I’ve lowered mine, even trimming the bottom of the mounts to lower the back even more. Trimmed all around to make the wheels not rub, and took off the accessories. This reduced the overall weight by a ton. I also took out the wheel well covers, and the fenders guards, stripping the top to just the shell, and cut out the windows. Planning to install clear plastic windows instead for aesthetics. Thanks to your video I’m going to trim my wheels tread pattern and flip those bumper mounts like you showed. Can’t wait to run it after that! Still running the full size battery, but I’ll see if there is any mods I can do to possibly relocate it. Thanks again for the content! You’ve earned my sub 🤟
Replacing the motor and ESC comes way down on my list of useful upgrades. A strong steering servo paired with a separate BEC is much higher priority! As for batteries: Coming from having a Losi Comp Crawler I opted for a big battery with my TRX-4. Replacing the batteries every 20 minutes is no fun, so now I wanted a long run rime for trail runs and my 3S 4Ah battery lasts me a whole 4h run (including a coffee break). 3S LiPo is the way to go, irregardless of battery size.
What? My 1500mah 3s lasts 1 hour crawling. The stock traxxas esc is garbage if you're going to do any serious crawling. Same thing with such a big battery you're not going to compete with a rig that has a 1500 u front. His free tips are excellent if you're into serious crawling. Steering servo is a no brainer. That's the first thing every beginner changes. Regardless of battery sise? I guess if you're only running trails and not serious crawling. TRX4 performs like sh*t with such a big battery on the rocks or anything really steep.
@@FarmerFpv You obviously missed vital parts of my previous post: 1. I want long run time for trail runs. That's what we do around here, with some more advanced off trail driving along the way. One hour drive time is almost nothing in that regard. 2. The stock ESC isn't that bad, in my opinion. If I replace it I will go for a brushless system that is better at both ends. (Not cheap.) 3. Replacing the servo is a no-brainer only if you know about it, which requires prior experience or advice from others. If you do know about that you're also likely to know about everything mentioned in this video (intended mostly for clueless beginners). 4. Crawling performance isn't top priority for my rig. As mentioned before I have an LCC for that. Looks and scale points are prioritized. The big battery isn't much of a problem though, compared to the total weight. I recently checked the weight balance and found that I need to add another 0.7 kg at the front to get it about right. That would bring total weight up to 5.0 kg (11 £). 5. Yes, I really think 3S LiPo is the best battery option, no matter if you want to use a big or small battery. NiMH or 2S LiPo doesn't cut it.
The true performance gain is keeping sprung weight low so any brushed motor is adding lots of sprung weight for me its removing everything i dont need sliders the sport body is top heavy and brass is good but u dont wanna over do it my stock chassis trx4 is 4 pounds 11 oz with brass and a 1500 mah 3s
When you do the overdrive change the front end and rear end are going to be fighting against one another leading to gear breakage possibly transmission drive shaft anything in there it's going to break if the front end is going to be going faster than the rear end it's going to try to drag the rear end
Logic would say this is true but in reality it just doesn’t happen. Element has been shipping its 1/10 Enduro line of models with overdriven front axles for years. All major manufacturers offer not only overdrive for the front but also under drive for the rear. Keep in mind…….over/under-drive is to improve crawling……low speeds, not recommended for bashers or high speed trailing.
I used my trx blazer twice, realized how serious a weapon it is, and shelved it until further notice. Thing is too dang nice and my axial can keep taking the abuse 🤣
Technically it does add some strain to the drivetrain. Staying around 10-12% overdrive in the front will improve the climbing and reduce the turn radius (longer the wheelbase = more turning effect). The strain is minimal and should not result in any failures…..most intermediate kits include overdrive gearing options from the factory. The concept seems like it would damage things over time but it’s just not the case. However, if you’re primarily about trail trucking at higher speeds maybe standard gearing is for the best, for slow technical crawling OD front or UD rear are both pretty beneficial. Thanks for watching and great question!
@@SonoranScaleStudios yeah I was thinking primarily on flatter surfaces the rears would be dragging if the fronts were pulling faster, as you mentioned, crawling vs trail
Nice video, i was wondering to gear up both diffs, but not sure if i need the under or overdrive gears. Car will be slow i guess. but its for slow crawling. thanks
The increased rotation of the front helps to “pull” the truck up inclines versus the rear pushing tends to cause backward tips, it also tightens the turn radius a bit on locked diff trucks as well. A lot of higher end kits come standard with front overdrive from the factory
are those the copper Injora beadlock wheels off Amazon? I have them on my short list and haven't quite narrowed it down. They look great in your video. I want to run the stock kit tires modified as you have shown but don't want to glue them to stock wheels that come in the kit. What foams are you using?
Tip #3 - any chance of a link for that? I've got the overdrive gears on my shelf and it was quite a lot more than USD$15! Link would be awesome, thanks! Keep making great stuff :)
My apologies and thanks for pointing this out……..You are correct, $15 is traxxas pricing for the stock diff ring and pinion set…….I paid over $30 for the overdrive set. Cheaper can be had from Hot Racing, coming in between 25-30usd. Sorry for this misinformation but thank you for taking the time to watch and comment!
Great video, thank you! My starter rig is shipping from China. I might see it in a month, but the TRX4 is next on my list. How much would you sell a set of modified stock tires for? :) My patience and time is almost worth $80. LOL What do you recommend for a brushless motor option?
Hahaha I completely understand regarding the modded stock tires! There are some really awesome brushless systems out there, i personally like the HobbyWing Quikrun Fusion, primarily because it is an all in one system with a cool foc feature, or field-oriented control, that makes power delivery very linear and keeps the system quiet. A downside to brushless in a crawler is many are LOUD and for some it takes away from the relaxation side of the hobby. A HobbyWing 1080 and a Holmes brushed motor is an awesome, affordable and silent system to consider.
@@SonoranScaleStudios Thank you, that is excellent advice. I did notice the high screeching sound in videos, worse than nails on a chalkboard! I'm leaning towards the scale/simulation side of things unless I get a dedicated crawler. Since I'm not competing I'll go brushed. I was hoping I'd find more reasonable modified rigs on ebay, but the one's I found were twice as much as stock and beat up. LOL
They look great! I’m thinking they would be a nice addition to the SCX10. Have you tried them yet? I’ve watched some of their videos and they look good
@@mastermindrc4404 i pulled out the grinder and cut two rear towers out of deck joist hangers. Tough as nails with a bit of weight. Allowed me to form an extended mount to lean shocks fwd a bit. Lower cg along with pen springs. Highly recommend watching exaulted rc trxcellence, can't get better than his setup. You'll drool at his performance.
@@user-nk4ot4zh9o hey man i got the rp towers and it really crawls i dont care if they are diy or bought if it works it works keep doing what you like and love
![Traxxas TRX4 RC Crawler Treal Shock Tower Upgrade [Install, Test, Review]](/img/n.gif)
*****EDIT Aug 12, 2021*****
Tip #3 Pricing was given in error. $15usd is representative of stock Traxxas diff ring and pinion set. The overdrive set is closer to $35……..still a great upgrade!
Great video! Just wondering if you are recommending to OD the front AND UD the rear? Or is it a one or the other choice but not both? Thanks (newbie here)…
@@Santaheckler Doing one of them is always good. Doing both is probably better for serious "crawling", but less suitable for running on paths and such.
My only objection here is that Sonoran's emphasis is on overdriving the front whereas (only) underdriving the rear will have the same effect.
Great info! Some of the best content on TRX4 diy and free mods I’ve found.
I’ve lowered mine, even trimming the bottom of the mounts to lower the back even more. Trimmed all around to make the wheels not rub, and took off the accessories.
This reduced the overall weight by a ton.
I also took out the wheel well covers, and the fenders guards, stripping the top to just the shell, and cut out the windows. Planning to install clear plastic windows instead for aesthetics.
Thanks to your video I’m going to trim my wheels tread pattern and flip those bumper mounts like you showed. Can’t wait to run it after that!
Still running the full size battery, but I’ll see if there is any mods I can do to possibly relocate it.
Thanks again for the content!
You’ve earned my sub 🤟
Replacing the motor and ESC comes way down on my list of useful upgrades. A strong steering servo paired with a separate BEC is much higher priority!
As for batteries: Coming from having a Losi Comp Crawler I opted for a big battery with my TRX-4. Replacing the batteries every 20 minutes is no fun, so now I wanted a long run rime for trail runs and my 3S 4Ah battery lasts me a whole 4h run (including a coffee break).
3S LiPo is the way to go, irregardless of battery size.
What? My 1500mah 3s lasts 1 hour crawling. The stock traxxas esc is garbage if you're going to do any serious crawling. Same thing with such a big battery you're not going to compete with a rig that has a 1500 u front. His free tips are excellent if you're into serious crawling. Steering servo is a no brainer. That's the first thing every beginner changes. Regardless of battery sise? I guess if you're only running trails and not serious crawling. TRX4 performs like sh*t with such a big battery on the rocks or anything really steep.
@@FarmerFpv You obviously missed vital parts of my previous post:
1. I want long run time for trail runs. That's what we do around here, with some more advanced off trail driving along the way.
One hour drive time is almost nothing in that regard.
2. The stock ESC isn't that bad, in my opinion. If I replace it I will go for a brushless system that is better at both ends. (Not cheap.)
3. Replacing the servo is a no-brainer only if you know about it, which requires prior experience or advice from others. If you do know about that you're also likely to know about everything mentioned in this video (intended mostly for clueless beginners).
4. Crawling performance isn't top priority for my rig. As mentioned before I have an LCC for that. Looks and scale points are prioritized. The big battery isn't much of a problem though, compared to the total weight. I recently checked the weight balance and found that I need to add another 0.7 kg at the front to get it about right. That would bring total weight up to 5.0 kg (11 £).
5. Yes, I really think 3S LiPo is the best battery option, no matter if you want to use a big or small battery. NiMH or 2S LiPo doesn't cut it.
Great tips for the TRX4 owners! I'm going to forward your video to my friend that has one!
The true performance gain is keeping sprung weight low so any brushed motor is adding lots of sprung weight for me its removing everything i dont need sliders the sport body is top heavy and brass is good but u dont wanna over do it my stock chassis trx4 is 4 pounds 11 oz with brass and a 1500 mah 3s
When you do the overdrive change the front end and rear end are going to be fighting against one another leading to gear breakage possibly transmission drive shaft anything in there it's going to break if the front end is going to be going faster than the rear end it's going to try to drag the rear end
Logic would say this is true but in reality it just doesn’t happen. Element has been shipping its 1/10 Enduro line of models with overdriven front axles for years. All major manufacturers offer not only overdrive for the front but also under drive for the rear. Keep in mind…….over/under-drive is to improve crawling……low speeds, not recommended for bashers or high speed trailing.
I used my trx blazer twice, realized how serious a weapon it is, and shelved it until further notice. Thing is too dang nice and my axial can keep taking the abuse 🤣
That blazer body sure is beautiful!
Dude great tips ✊🏽
appreciate the tips bro, keep em coming😅
The shorty lipo 2s or 3s thanks great video
do the tire mod but add some aftermarket wheels that are sealed with 2 stage foams. best there is
How does the front tires turning faster than the rear not screw anything up? Wouldn’t it be putting strain on one or the other? Please explain
Technically it does add some strain to the drivetrain. Staying around 10-12% overdrive in the front will improve the climbing and reduce the turn radius (longer the wheelbase = more turning effect). The strain is minimal and should not result in any failures…..most intermediate kits include overdrive gearing options from the factory. The concept seems like it would damage things over time but it’s just not the case. However, if you’re primarily about trail trucking at higher speeds maybe standard gearing is for the best, for slow technical crawling OD front or UD rear are both pretty beneficial. Thanks for watching and great question!
@@SonoranScaleStudios yeah I was thinking primarily on flatter surfaces the rears would be dragging if the fronts were pulling faster, as you mentioned, crawling vs trail
Nice video, i was wondering to gear up both diffs, but not sure if i need the under or overdrive gears. Car will be slow i guess. but its for slow crawling. thanks
For crawling most start with an overdrive to the front and then an under drive to the rear if desired.
3:22 yep, but why do you need the front wheels to spin faster than the rear?
The increased rotation of the front helps to “pull” the truck up inclines versus the rear pushing tends to cause backward tips, it also tightens the turn radius a bit on locked diff trucks as well. A lot of higher end kits come standard with front overdrive from the factory
Really nice tips! Thank's mate :)
Nice video and nice channel bro showing support one time
Awesome tips thanks brother
Thanks for watching! Similar content soon to come on the new TRX4M’s, stay tuned 👍!
Great video
Trx4미션도 오버드라이브 기능이 있나요?
Great video but you need to turn your voiceover up and the music down in future videos. Really hard to hear you at times.
Thank you bro
What is that stand you got thats cool?
Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for watching!
What body is that please?
I think the only brass mods are either axle housings or brass hexes
are those the copper Injora beadlock wheels off Amazon? I have them on my short list and haven't quite narrowed it down. They look great in your video. I want to run the stock kit tires modified as you have shown but don't want to glue them to stock wheels that come in the kit. What foams are you using?
Yes those are exactly the wheels here. With those wheels I was actually using hair buns in the front and 2 stage prolines in the back
@@SonoranScaleStudios where did you pick up the hair buns?
Well done! Great tips, got yourself a sub!
Thanks so much it’s appreciated!!
Great work keep it up👍
Thank you so much 😀
the frame is metal ?
Yes the frame rails on the TRX4 are C channel shaped steel
Tip #3 - any chance of a link for that? I've got the overdrive gears on my shelf and it was quite a lot more than USD$15! Link would be awesome, thanks! Keep making great stuff :)
My apologies and thanks for pointing this out……..You are correct, $15 is traxxas pricing for the stock diff ring and pinion set…….I paid over $30 for the overdrive set. Cheaper can be had from Hot Racing, coming in between 25-30usd. Sorry for this misinformation but thank you for taking the time to watch and comment!
@@SonoranScaleStudios all good! Wasn't nitpicking, genuinely wanted to know if I'd really overpaid! Mystery solved! Cheers
Lol I didn’t think it was negative at all…….I had a feeling you were excited to have potentially found a bargain and I was just sorry to disappoint!
@@SonoranScaleStudios lol yep you got me! Thanks for checking it :)
Great video, thank you! My starter rig is shipping from China. I might see it in a month, but the TRX4 is next on my list. How much would you sell a set of modified stock tires for? :) My patience and time is almost worth $80. LOL What do you recommend for a brushless motor option?
Hahaha I completely understand regarding the modded stock tires! There are some really awesome brushless systems out there, i personally like the HobbyWing Quikrun Fusion, primarily because it is an all in one system with a cool foc feature, or field-oriented control, that makes power delivery very linear and keeps the system quiet. A downside to brushless in a crawler is many are LOUD and for some it takes away from the relaxation side of the hobby. A HobbyWing 1080 and a Holmes brushed motor is an awesome, affordable and silent system to consider.
@@SonoranScaleStudios Thank you, that is excellent advice. I did notice the high screeching sound in videos, worse than nails on a chalkboard! I'm leaning towards the scale/simulation side of things unless I get a dedicated crawler.
Since I'm not competing I'll go brushed. I was hoping I'd find more reasonable modified rigs on ebay, but the one's I found were twice as much as stock and beat up. LOL
does the fenders fit with the sport body?
Yes, traxxas makes a fender kit just for use with the sport body. I believe they are considered the “narrow” set by Traxxas
Traxxas 8080
Where’s the free things?
Ikr
Veri nice 👍
cool vid ! big like !
Man test the rock pirate shock towers
They look great! I’m thinking they would be a nice addition to the SCX10. Have you tried them yet? I’ve watched some of their videos and they look good
@@SonoranScaleStudios well i order them today i will let you know
@@mastermindrc4404 i pulled out the grinder and cut two rear towers out of deck joist hangers. Tough as nails with a bit of weight. Allowed me to form an extended mount to lean shocks fwd a bit. Lower cg along with pen springs. Highly recommend watching exaulted rc trxcellence, can't get better than his setup. You'll drool at his performance.
@@user-nk4ot4zh9o hey man i got the rp towers and it really crawls i dont care if they are diy or bought if it works it works keep doing what you like and love
@@mastermindrc4404 i really like the look of those and the ierc ones too. Living on disability keeps $ tight. Is fun to fab things
😁😁👍👍