You should prolly mention that using anything but Magura Royal Blood, Magura pads and Magura parts voids their warranty, not that anyone uses it, but they do give you a 5 year no leak warranty. Their brakes are awesome. Thanks for the great video.
And after 5 years the Brake Cylinders are leaking and Magura says no pistons is available to buy on them, so what should i do with my Brake Cylinder, buy a new one?
Unbelievable! Works for me. first time i thought it doesn’t work but after putting the screw back, keep playing on the brake several times then it becomes harder ! 🎉🎉🎉🎉 thanks Tried the classical method never worked even i respected the guidelines.
One little tip to avoid having to tighten your spacer with an elastic (at 2:20): put the screws back in the caliper (without the pads) and insert the spacers (from Magura) the other way around than shown in the video, they are made to clip in the screws and not move around :) Super nice video !
Hi Quentin, Thank you for your feedback and hint about the spacers. ;-) Now you can also find an extra bleed block (harder than magura spacers) in our kit (since 2019). It can also be fixed with the screws and provides a much better defined pressure point!
A lot of oil was leaking out at the end of yhe process, when you took the syringe off the caliper. Make sure your caliper is the highest point of the system when you take that syringe off. By taking the caliper off and hold it up or lift the back wheel up. Then all the oil will stay in and you dont have to ne quick closing it off. I made that mistake too 😅
Hi, thanks for the tip. That is correct and if it is easy to change the position of the wheel (e.g. in a mounting stand), that is the cleaner solution. Alternatively, you can simply unscrew the brake calliper completely. However, as many people probably don't bleed the brakes in an assembly stand, it is also possible to do this if the brake calliper is not at the highest point when the screw is closed. It is also important that the brake calliper must not be the highest point when bleeding, only when unscrewing the syringe!
Good video! How much oil does it take to flush the system? Why not start from the lever pushing the dirty crap out of the caliper where it sits. Should you tap the break lines first? Why go backwards and forwards so much?
Yes, roughly depending on the length of the line: approx. 20 ml Just briefly about the process: The air moves upwards, so it is best to bleed the air as shown and depending on where the air is, the various steps are unfortunately all necessary.
Thanks for the tutorial! There's one little failure I recognized at around 6:00. You have to tighten the upper clamp bolt first and second the lower one to fix the brake on the handlebar. There shouldn't be clearance at the upper side of the clamp when finished. ✌️
Hi Just bough the pair of MT8 brakes, however the cable routing goes through the frame, this is a good video, I think I can bleed my brakes for myself... I have to buy the Bleeding Service Kit though... The Magura Royal Blood.
I followed the procedures step by step, then I realized that when disconnecting caliper syringe/reinstalling caliper bleed screw, the oil flows out like there is no vacuum up in the lever. Is this normal?
Hello Yuze, if youre reservoir in the lever is full and free of air that shouldn`t happen. A little drip maybe but no running stream, there must be air getting in /being in the system. Sincerly , Mischa
That is correct, but it is not necessarily easier to close the large hole at the top ;-) Alternatively, you can also bleed (with a little more friction) without removing the syringe plunger.
My EBT plug has a stripped head (on MT5 brakes) and I cannot remove it. Will I have to replace it with an entirely new Brake lever Assembly if I cannot remove it? Great how-to vid...
Did you flip around the brake lever and tried the other one? Levers are symetric and have bleedports on both sides to make the switch to a moto-style brake setup easier.
Hello, well, this does not match our experience, especially as the question is probably not whether or not to remove the brake caliper, but rather in which position it should be placed for bleeding. kind regards, Marcus
Thank you for this great instruction video, I used it to successfully bleed my front brake and I have a positive bite point. However I notice after riding through rough sections on the trail, I begin losing brake force and the bite point gets closer to the handlebar. If I lift the front of the bike (like a wheelie) and pump the lever the brake force is restored and I get a firm bite point once more. Any idea what may be causing this? Thanks!!
I have done this a number of times with my Magura MT5 Bosch ABS front brake braking system, but the tension in my front brake weakens after a few weeks. I once forgot to block the brake pistons and pressed my brake while bleeding and the mineral oil emptied completely through the brake pistons. But then resolved again. But I wonder what I'm doing wrong that I have to keep refilling my brakes?
@@tuning-bikes It was just a screw between the brake lever and e-bike handle, which I had to tighten clockwise to create extra pressure. In any case, thanks.
Seems like when you remove adapter out the caliper to fit the cap bolt back there is fluid coming out so air is getting in. This means there is no chance to have fully bleed caliper. Please correct me what I'm missing. I have new set of mt7 to put on the bike but hoses are to long so need to shorten them and then bleed. Don't want to face some issues.
Since you close the EBT screw on the lever you create a Vacuum and almost no oil will pour out of the caliper. The minimal amount that pours out is replaced by oil from the reservoir in the lever, not with air from the surroundings.
@@tuning-bikes it there is minimal oil missing so in its place when you put the bolt back is air. In my opinion you should take caliper off. Place it with bleed hole facing up. Press leaver to fill the hole. Same time (probably 2 people operation) plug the bolt back. While the excess oil round the bolt. This way it would remove 100% air. The other way is vacuum filling same as air conditioning is charged.
@@broskis80 it there is minimal oil missing so in its place when you put the bolt back is air. See: The minimal amount that pours out is replaced by oil from the reservoir in the lever, not with air from the surroundings.
@@tuning-bikes that makes no logic. To work as you say there must be vacuum. But by physics there be air. My self I'm doing this different way and I think I'll do my new MT7 same way as any other brakes I do.
@@broskis80 We like sharing our experience of bleeding hydraulic bicycle brakes for ~20 years, but please feel free to do the procedere as you like. I just don't understand what's your point acuatlly. You had a question - we tried to help and answered your question - you want to do it differntly. That's alright, but there's no point in arguing then.
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions?
do you have a sealing ring around the leed screw of the caliper or not? Mine is broken so my question is: can the caliper leak if you don't use an O-ring?
Hi, can you help me. I bought a 2018 bike that is fitted with mt7 pro +hc3 levers but both levers metal plunger are 2-3mm away from the mt7 mastercylinders plunger, so it's not touching it unless I pull Front + Rear hc3 levers in 4mm and 8mm. Can I fix it or is there problem with my ht7 master cylinders ?
a little bit of distance seems normal, i checked a new brake we have on stock, but 8 mm seems massive. try to "overfill" the brake by pushing oil into the caliper without opening the ebt bleedport and see if your mastercylinder plunger moves farther out.
@@lagertb459 Hi, Thanks for the reply. I ended up emailed Magura and then sent them a short video and they suggested I send to them to check, which I've just done today. I also called today to check something before sending to them and I spoke to Chris, who said he might end up replacing mastercylinders under warranty. The Front brake was twice as bad as the rear brake, which I assume is due to more usage by the last owner. From what I and he could see/tell it appears that the levers on both are not sitting completely flush up against the housing on both mastercylinder and theres a small gap which is allowing both levers to sit off the mc plunger which is creating the bigger gap between both levers metal plungers and both mastercylinders plungers. But Like you say maybe they were not bleed right or needed doing again and created the gap issue. I will let you know how I get on once I get them both back from Magura UK hopefully in the next few days. Thanks again for replying ;)
@@lagertb459 Well, Magura Thankfully replaced for me. Now got perfect brandnew setup. They said in there opinion it was due to crash damage on the mastercylinders which left little gap between mc and the lever were the lever sits/rests in the mastercylinders housing. They were in there rights to reject them but thankfully did as goodwill gesture for me, so I called them today to personally thank the service guy for doing this for me.
th-cam.com/video/Bl8PChRadX0/w-d-xo.html This might help you in the future. Especially the trick with the pads towards the 2nd half of the vid. I have 4 sets of Maguras and 4 brakes and they all work perfectly.
Hi, Thank you for your feedback. :-) It was just sold out for a few days. We've already sent more bleeding sets to amazon a couple of days ago. So it should soon be available again! Kind regards, Marcus
Isn't it a good idea after closing the top screw at the brake lever to turn your bike upside down? This to prevent oil coming out of the caliper screw hole?
After the oil is in. Would it not make sense to first insert the bleed screw, which is lower, then the one which is higher? Reason being that gravity pulls oil downwards.
If you do that, the oil from the top syringe will run down and make a mess over your brake caliper, if you close the top first you have a vacuum and the oil will stay in.
Pro-Tip. The two little yellow hose clamp blocks that come with new Shimano brakes are the perfect size and substitute for bleed blocks with MAGURA brakes :)
Hello, you cant / shouldn`t add pressure! its a temporarely fix anyways since the open system will regulate itself after your brakepads are worn down a bit more. sincerly, Mischa
I really like the magura break but shimano it's more easy to do tha😅 I love magura I have a seat post magura for 8 years and I don't have any problem ❤
Hey E Rid, since "spongy" isn´t exactly a tecnical term, i have to ask: Are there always new air bubbles coming out of the brake when you repeat the process? Then a seal or a connection could be damaged so that always new air gets into the System. Did you renew a part of the brake, like a completly new caliper or Lever? then some air could be trapped inside cause its new and was never filled before. Did you switch to a magura brake from another brand? The lever feel on a current Magura will never be as hard as on a lets say oldschool Hayes HFX9 for example, so "spongy" could be normal, just unfamiliar. Maybe you can give us more details?
@@tuning-bikes thanks for following up. I bought new Magura brakes and the rear is fine but the front lever needs to be fully pushed down to work. I bleed it nonstop and bubbles just keep coming up. Seems like climbing a hill that never ends. Interesting with the seals, what would those be and do I just replace them?
@@er98ah Hi E Rid, the bubbles have to come from somewhere, so air is getting in your System again and again. Its very rare that the seals on a brand new magura brake are not ok, you also couldnt replace them, only send the brake back to where you got it, Magura gives a 5 year warranty on their products. Since it is so rare i´d rather check the connection from hose to lever first, you propably shortend it for your bike i guess, and see if everything is correct there, propably i´d redo the process there.
Attaching the syringe to the frame with a releasable cable tie is such a smart idea!
This is so well made tutorial, you show what to do clearly and the video is under 10mins. :)
You should prolly mention that using anything but Magura Royal Blood, Magura pads and Magura parts voids their warranty, not that anyone uses it, but they do give you a 5 year no leak warranty. Their brakes are awesome. Thanks for the great video.
And after 5 years the Brake Cylinders are leaking and Magura says no pistons is available to buy on them, so what should i do with my Brake Cylinder, buy a new one?
@@marilakay4902 ...or just simply use Shimano brakes. Never (ever) had any problems with them with regular maintenance.
Unbelievable! Works for me. first time i thought it doesn’t work but after putting the screw back, keep playing on the brake several times then it becomes harder ! 🎉🎉🎉🎉 thanks Tried the classical method never worked even i respected the guidelines.
One little tip to avoid having to tighten your spacer with an elastic (at 2:20): put the screws back in the caliper (without the pads) and insert the spacers (from Magura) the other way around than shown in the video, they are made to clip in the screws and not move around :)
Super nice video !
Hi Quentin, Thank you for your feedback and hint about the spacers. ;-) Now you can also find an extra bleed block (harder than magura spacers) in our kit (since 2019). It can also be fixed with the screws and provides a much better defined pressure point!
A lot of oil was leaking out at the end of yhe process, when you took the syringe off the caliper. Make sure your caliper is the highest point of the system when you take that syringe off. By taking the caliper off and hold it up or lift the back wheel up. Then all the oil will stay in and you dont have to ne quick closing it off. I made that mistake too 😅
Hi, thanks for the tip. That is correct and if it is easy to change the position of the wheel (e.g. in a mounting stand), that is the cleaner solution. Alternatively, you can simply unscrew the brake calliper completely. However, as many people probably don't bleed the brakes in an assembly stand, it is also possible to do this if the brake calliper is not at the highest point when the screw is closed. It is also important that the brake calliper must not be the highest point when bleeding, only when unscrewing the syringe!
Got it done. Thanks for the great tutorial, really helped me out.
thank you, I am glad if our video has helped you. :-)
If you put in the brakepad screws, you can insert the transport devices from the bottom in blocking position.
thats right!
Excellent and very informative my friend 😁👍🇬🇧
Thanks that was a great video, very helpful!
nice video! just a FYI Magura recommends 4nm for the bleed screw on caliper and not 2.5
I came here just to look for this comment!
This video saved my life!! Man I struggled !
Very useful video, thanks!
Good video! How much oil does it take to flush the system? Why not start from the lever pushing the dirty crap out of the caliper where it sits. Should you tap the break lines first? Why go backwards and forwards so much?
Yes, roughly depending on the length of the line: approx. 20 ml
Just briefly about the process: The air moves upwards, so it is best to bleed the air as shown and depending on where the air is, the various steps are unfortunately all necessary.
Thanks for the tutorial!
There's one little failure I recognized at around 6:00. You have to tighten the upper clamp bolt first and second the lower one to fix the brake on the handlebar.
There shouldn't be clearance at the upper side of the clamp when finished. ✌️
you are right, we´ll do it better next time, thanks for the hint
Hi Just bough the pair of MT8 brakes, however the cable routing goes through the frame, this is a good video, I think I can bleed my brakes for myself... I have to buy the Bleeding Service Kit though... The Magura Royal Blood.
Hi. Excellent video.
Before bleeding MT7 in which direction should we turn BAT pressure point adjustment knob?
Thanks
I followed the procedures step by step, then I realized that when disconnecting caliper syringe/reinstalling caliper bleed screw, the oil flows out like there is no vacuum up in the lever. Is this normal?
Hello Yuze, if youre reservoir in the lever is full and free of air that shouldn`t happen. A little drip maybe but no running stream, there must be air getting in /being in the system. Sincerly , Mischa
Sounds like you haven't closed off the bleed screw at the lever?
Also lift the frame so the caliper is above the lever, that will stop mineral oil from dripping out
@@meepsL I did closed bleed screw
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 that's what I am thinking, will do that next time
I believe simply covering the hole on the top syringe prevents any liquid from escaping when removing the syringe
That is correct, but it is not necessarily easier to close the large hole at the top ;-) Alternatively, you can also bleed (with a little more friction) without removing the syringe plunger.
My EBT plug has a stripped head (on MT5 brakes) and I cannot remove it. Will I have to replace it with an entirely new Brake lever Assembly if I cannot remove it? Great how-to vid...
Did you flip around the brake lever and tried the other one? Levers are symetric and have bleedports on both sides to make the switch to a moto-style brake setup easier.
@@lagertb459 thank you! I'll try it.
@Trump TheTerrorist Took it to my LBS and they got it out with an extractor. No need to replace the entire lever! Whew! Cheers!
Next time make sure to just barely tighten it, it's meant to use 0.5 nm of force
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 found out the hard way. Fixed by LBS now. Cheers!
This video was so well done
Magura is saying that if you leave the caliper "as is" attached to the frame it may not be possible to get all bubbles out from the caliper.
Hello,
well, this does not match our experience, especially as the question is probably not whether or not to remove the brake caliper, but rather in which position it should be placed for bleeding.
kind regards,
Marcus
Perfect 🙂🍻🚵
Thank you for this instruction video. I was able to successful bleed my brakes following you video
Thank you for your feedback, glad to hear that. :-)
how to remove pads on mt5? i slept 3am still can't figure out how to remove mt5 pads
They are magnetic. Pull them out from the bottom and they will slip right out. EASY PEEZY!
On MT5 worked perfectly first time
Great vid! 😊
Thank you for this great instruction video, I used it to successfully bleed my front brake and I have a positive bite point. However I notice after riding through rough sections on the trail, I begin losing brake force and the bite point gets closer to the handlebar. If I lift the front of the bike (like a wheelie) and pump the lever the brake force is restored and I get a firm bite point once more. Any idea what may be causing this? Thanks!!
there has to be still air in the reservoir in the brake lever. it moves into the system whem it is bumpy. greetings, mischa
Lager TB thanks for the response. I’ll try to bleed the brake lever and see if I could get any remaining air out..
@@lagertb459 or a leaver piston seal is starting to fail if constant
Thanks for the video. I just bled my MT5s. Pretty easy.
I have done this a number of times with my Magura MT5 Bosch ABS front brake braking system, but the tension in my front brake weakens after a few weeks. I once forgot to block the brake pistons and pressed my brake while bleeding and the mineral oil emptied completely through the brake pistons. But then resolved again. But I wonder what I'm doing wrong that I have to keep refilling my brakes?
Well, unfortunately your brake is probably simply leaking.
Thank you for your message, what would be a solution to this so that they no longer leak?@@tuning-bikes
@@kadiryilmis3721 There are many possible causes for this and you would have to investigate this yourself or have a workshop on site.
@@tuning-bikes It was just a screw between the brake lever and e-bike handle, which I had to tighten clockwise to create extra pressure. In any case, thanks.
@@kadiryilmis3721 I don't know which screw you mean, but I'm glad you were able to solve your problem. :-)
Seems like when you remove adapter out the caliper to fit the cap bolt back there is fluid coming out so air is getting in.
This means there is no chance to have fully bleed caliper.
Please correct me what I'm missing.
I have new set of mt7 to put on the bike but hoses are to long so need to shorten them and then bleed. Don't want to face some issues.
Since you close the EBT screw on the lever you create a Vacuum and almost no oil will pour out of the caliper. The minimal amount that pours out is replaced by oil from the reservoir in the lever, not with air from the surroundings.
@@tuning-bikes it there is minimal oil missing so in its place when you put the bolt back is air.
In my opinion you should take caliper off. Place it with bleed hole facing up.
Press leaver to fill the hole.
Same time (probably 2 people operation) plug the bolt back. While the excess oil round the bolt. This way it would remove 100% air.
The other way is vacuum filling same as air conditioning is charged.
@@broskis80 it there is minimal oil missing so in its place when you put the bolt back is air. See: The minimal amount that pours out is replaced by oil from the reservoir in the lever, not with air from the surroundings.
@@tuning-bikes that makes no logic. To work as you say there must be vacuum. But by physics there be air.
My self I'm doing this different way and I think I'll do my new MT7 same way as any other brakes I do.
@@broskis80 We like sharing our experience of bleeding hydraulic bicycle brakes for ~20 years, but please feel free to do the procedere as you like. I just don't understand what's your point acuatlly.
You had a question - we tried to help and answered your question - you want to do it differntly. That's alright, but there's no point in arguing then.
super helpful
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions?
Hello m Spring, of course you could try to mobilise you pistons, but if the brake is brand new i wouldnt bother and send it back.
Try cleaning/lubing up the pistons with brake fluid on a cotton swab, particularly the stubborn ones. That's worked for me in the past.
do you have a sealing ring around the leed screw of the caliper or not? Mine is broken so my question is: can the caliper leak if you don't use an O-ring?
Hi Jan, there is no O-Ring at the bleed Screw at the caliper. Kind regards, Marcus
Tuning Bikes oh, I ordered a new one because my caliper was leaking😕😅
Magura Mini Service Kit comes only with one hose
Hi, can you help me. I bought a 2018 bike that is fitted with mt7 pro +hc3 levers but both levers metal plunger are 2-3mm away from the mt7 mastercylinders plunger, so it's not touching it unless I pull Front + Rear hc3 levers in 4mm and 8mm.
Can I fix it or is there problem with my ht7 master cylinders ?
a little bit of distance seems normal, i checked a new brake we have on stock, but 8 mm seems massive. try to "overfill" the brake by pushing oil into the caliper without opening the ebt bleedport and see if your mastercylinder plunger moves farther out.
@@lagertb459 Hi, Thanks for the reply. I ended up emailed Magura and then sent them a short video and they suggested I send to them to check, which I've just done today. I also called today to check something before sending to them and I spoke to Chris, who said he might end up replacing mastercylinders under warranty. The Front brake was twice as bad as the rear brake, which I assume is due to more usage by the last owner. From what I and he could see/tell it appears that the levers on both are not sitting completely flush up against the housing on both mastercylinder and theres a small gap which is allowing both levers to sit off the mc plunger which is creating the bigger gap between both levers metal plungers and both mastercylinders plungers. But Like you say maybe they were not bleed right or needed doing again and created the gap issue. I will let you know how I get on once I get them both back from Magura UK hopefully in the next few days. Thanks again for replying ;)
@@lagertb459 Well, Magura Thankfully replaced for me. Now got perfect brandnew setup. They said in there opinion it was due to crash damage on the mastercylinders which left little gap between mc and the lever were the lever sits/rests in the mastercylinders housing. They were in there rights to reject them but thankfully did as goodwill gesture for me, so I called them today to personally thank the service guy for doing this for me.
th-cam.com/video/Bl8PChRadX0/w-d-xo.html This might help you in the future. Especially the trick with the pads towards the 2nd half of the vid. I have 4 sets of Maguras and 4 brakes and they all work perfectly.
Perfect video, but I wonder why the bleed kit is no longer available for purchase on Amazon?
Hi,
Thank you for your feedback. :-)
It was just sold out for a few days. We've already sent more bleeding sets to amazon a couple of days ago. So it should soon be available again!
Kind regards,
Marcus
Can i use shimano mineral oil in magura breaks ?
Hello Gadgetdad, while it may work in theory and praxis we strongly advice against it. It will void your warranty! Sincerly, Mischa
I use Shimano mineral oil,works fine.Royal bood is mineral as well.I bought my MT7 second hand.so there is no warranty on it.
Isn't it a good idea after closing the top screw at the brake lever to turn your bike upside down? This to prevent oil coming out of the caliper screw hole?
No, oil does not comes out because he first screws the brake level bolt therefore there is vacuum holding the oil...
@@jose280714 that doesn't work like that irl
So, you cant pressurise MT5 brakes?
wait is there a german video playing in the back? or is my system broke and it plays to videos at the same time xD
Yes, the original audio is german. It's called synchronization ;-)
After the oil is in. Would it not make sense to first insert the bleed screw, which is lower, then the one which is higher? Reason being that gravity pulls oil downwards.
If you do that, the oil from the top syringe will run down and make a mess over your brake caliper, if you close the top first you have a vacuum and the oil will stay in.
@@lagertb459 That doesn't work, you are hurying to put the sering on for proof, if a vaacum was there you could take your time
Nice vid!
What is the thickness of the blocks, please. Piston against piston?
approximately 10 mm
@@tuning-bikes Thank you very much.
Pro-Tip. The two little yellow hose clamp blocks that come with new Shimano brakes are the perfect size and substitute for bleed blocks with MAGURA brakes :)
What if you need to add pressure!
Hello, you cant / shouldn`t add pressure! its a temporarely fix anyways since the open system will regulate itself after your brakepads are worn down a bit more. sincerly, Mischa
I've just been tought to bleed *stabs*
then how do you dispose the oil
Hi,
In Germany you can give it to every oil-dealer (gas station f.e.).
nick de ridder I usually just drink mine
@@jamesday3755 Hey its Blue Blood, now your blood will be blue like a sno-cone! LOL
Jazak Allah
nice tks for this tips
On the right side of his handlebars to the left of his brake lever what is the thing that says rock shocks… thx u
Dropper post lever
I really like the magura break but shimano it's more easy to do tha😅 I love magura I have a seat post magura for 8 years and I don't have any problem ❤
Hi! Fittings m5 or m6 ?
M6
I’ve spent 20
Hours trying to bleed this brakes but no matter what I do still spongy. This is a mystery to me
Hey E Rid, since "spongy" isn´t exactly a tecnical term, i have to ask: Are there always new air bubbles coming out of the brake when you repeat the process? Then a seal or a connection could be damaged so that always new air gets into the System.
Did you renew a part of the brake, like a completly new caliper or Lever? then some air could be trapped inside cause its new and was never filled before.
Did you switch to a magura brake from another brand? The lever feel on a current Magura will never be as hard as on a lets say oldschool Hayes HFX9 for example, so "spongy" could be normal, just unfamiliar.
Maybe you can give us more details?
@@tuning-bikes thanks for following up. I bought new Magura brakes and the rear is fine but the front lever needs to be fully pushed down to work. I bleed it nonstop and bubbles just keep coming up. Seems like climbing a hill that never ends.
Interesting with the seals, what would those be and do I just replace them?
@@er98ah Hi E Rid, the bubbles have to come from somewhere, so air is getting in your System again and again. Its very rare that the seals on a brand new magura brake are not ok, you also couldnt replace them, only send the brake back to where you got it, Magura gives a 5 year warranty on their products. Since it is so rare i´d rather check the connection from hose to lever first, you propably shortend it for your bike i guess, and see if everything is correct there, propably i´d redo the process there.
Pedro's voice does not suit him well though...