I've been running hydraulic brakes since 1998. I got a set of Magura Blues reduced to about £80 for the pair, because the new fangled V-brakes were getting rave reviews from the mags. I'm now running HS33Rs because the Blue levers were actually pretty horrible to use. They only needed 2 fingers for full brake power but the huge lever would crush the other two against the bar. That original set are still working fine, despite never having been bled and are sitting in my parts box just in case they're called back to duty.
This is the best video I have seen on bleeding Maguras. I think the tip about adjusting the fluid level is massively important, otherwise it can be easy to over or under-fill the system.
@@OwenBikeNerd Next up you guys should do a video showing how to get the Magura caliper back on the bike with zero pad rub. Could just be a me problem, but I find getting Magura brakes setup so they don't have any rotor rub to be a near impossible. Shimano, SRAM, Hayes, etc. are all easy in comparison because they have so much pad clearance. Perhaps I'm missing something. A simple google search seems to indicate that lots of people struggle with this. I just pulled a set of Magura MT Trails off my bike because I got tired of sinking so much time into getting them aligned perfectly, just to have them start rubbing again.
I burst the master cylinder on my MT5 pro by pushing pistons back in on the rear without removing bleed screw first. Now running shigura on the rear, magura on the front and I prefer shigura. Still plenty of modulation, although less so easier to break hard and less achey on the fingers for sustained braking. Also found bleeding less faffy, there was no try again to make it better it just worked. MT5 caliper, magura hose, shimano olive and barb with slx lever, using royal blood for anyone who cares.
I would love to see a world where GMBN is ALSO the GO-TO for servicing components with granular focus - imagine something similar to the SRAM video tutorials but for lets say a 2017-2020 FOX transfer seatpost services. There’s definitely a gaping whole in the TH-cam market for such granular videos and GMBN is the perfect driver for this. Here’s to hoping.(:
Biggest thing on these is to rotate the lever assembly and cycle a few times, there's some air that easily gets trapped in there. Would be hard to do with that open-top reservoir here - easy with the magura kit syringe (once you put a hole in it).
@@esshoul Retract the plunger all the way (don't pull it out) and use a hot nail or drill to add a small air hole (~1/8") through the side of the syringe body. That lets air escape when you push fluid up from the caliper syringe. Then you can put your finger over the hole to keep fluid from spilling out when you remove it.
Getting that caliper higher than master cylinder is the most crucial part of bleeding MT brakes and getting that fluid level right. Getting those air bubbles out takes some time with how master cylinder is designed but that caliper part is the most important thing.
Sure that your rotors are tuned and not warped. If its a new brake, you can push the fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder, but if its a used seasoned bike, never ever push the fluid from the back. All those debris will get stuck in the master cylinder. Best to have the front bike down and back wheel up to easily push the air from the master cylinder to the caliper.
It takes a little bit of juggling with the bike angle, but the technique with balancing the fluid level is the same! No need to remove the brake system from the bike 👌
Hi, Great question - you'll need to balance the master cylinder / caliper position - so it will be easier to do that with the brake off the frame mount - but you shouldn't have to remove it completely - you will have to do some brain gym - but its do-able. Raising the caliper up inline with the master cylinder helps set the fluid level - its simple a effective technique. Cheers Owen
I own Magura's on two bikes. I always tell people my brakes are like a hot girlfriend. They are high maintenance, expensive but damn, they feel good! They are way more touchy to bleed than most brakes but all Magura owners become experts in bleeding brakes, as they have to do it often.
Having Magura brakes on most of my bikes, including my sole remaining rim brake bike which has Magura HS 33's , I find it comical that people find it difficult to bleed them properly.
I didn't find it comical dude, that's why I'm running anything but magura now. I tried to get them right but the rear and front were never the same level of crispy, I paid a shop to bleed the mt7 and switched pads and rotors they were fine for about 4 rides, then the rear became mushy again. Geez man they're beautiful but...😂
@@LawrenceMacMacster Sorry to hear you had bad experience with them. I've never had any issues with them feeling different between front or rear on my bikes. Oh well, that's why there are so many decent choices from other manufacturers.
I put mt5 estop onto my yt decoy front brake beld up no issue. Got the rear bled uo good enough first 3-4 spin I was delighted with them the got spongy. Nd completely failed to slow me one day I gave 4 weeks off work because of the resulting accident. So shimano xt were ordered while I was injured.
Great question - with other brake systems the way the lever pushes the master cylinder then yes some lever adjustment is required - but the way the magura's MT Series levers push the master cylinder - I don't feel its required - even with the HC3 lever. Cheers Owen
I had MT7 trail pros and developed a leak on the rear caliper seal. Was informed by Maguea that they’re not replaceable and the whole caliper assembly has to be replaced. I duly did just that. With Shimano Saints, and I’ll never put Maura on any of my bikes.
OWEN!!! Help!! Brakes have ALWAYS been the thorn in my MTB maintenance life! SOMETHING ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE RUBBING! I’ve given up on figuring out what keeps happening because I seem to never get to the bottom of it. Also, I often see that pistons on one side are far more protruding than the other - I go push them back in and sometimes they fix themselves but most times they’re unbalanced. HEEELP!!!
An imbalance of pistons isn't particularly the worst thing, providing that the rotor is in the right place for them to both meet and apply even pressure to it! The rubbing can take quite a while to fix though! First off, look straight down against a brighter surface such as a tiled floor, then spin the wheel, if there's any warp in the rotor try and straighten it using a metal tool (not fingers). If it's too bad its new rotor time. Then, providing the brake isn't overbled it should just be a case of microadjustments to the positioning of the caliper to line things up! Hope that helps
4:56 the screw is actually a "torx plus 25", not "torx 25". why does not even magura realise this? sure, the T25 bit will work, but torx plus 25 is the correct bit.
I did this on my mt5 caliper, i popped it straight back in, swore at myself a lot, did a big clean up of all the spilt oil, bled the fucker and got on with my life. I have heard others say the seal was ruined and it leaked fluid after though so basically you'll just have to try to find out. I'd keep the wheel off over night to avoid risking contaminating rotor and pads and see if any has spilled, give a few light pulls on the lever to make sure it doesn't leak when pistons are partially extended and if all ok push them back in (with bleed port open as you could burst the master cylinder (i did exactly that when pushing pistons back in)).
I've read this type of comment a hundred times and it's not fair to Magura. Yes, the lever breaks easier than most when hit hard, but otherwise they last forever, which cannot be said for a lot of other brakes.
@@vlbz no, it's absolutely fair. They had near perfect design 20 years ago and since then only adapted it for mass manufacturing. Even swapping for those older Marta or Louise is an upgrade. And since they actually last forever, you can still find them in very good condition.
@@Crouderwhy? If you are making such an ignorant comment then explain. Or are you just another typical TH-cam muppet 😂? I bet you are a muppet aren’t you
Are you using hydraulic brakes yet or are you still on good old-fashioned cables? Let us know in the comments below! 👇
Kinda a different method than other videos regarding Magura Brakes. I love my Mt7’s but they can be fiddley. That park tool kit is now a must have
I've been running hydraulic brakes since 1998. I got a set of Magura Blues reduced to about £80 for the pair, because the new fangled V-brakes were getting rave reviews from the mags.
I'm now running HS33Rs because the Blue levers were actually pretty horrible to use. They only needed 2 fingers for full brake power but the huge lever would crush the other two against the bar.
That original set are still working fine, despite never having been bled and are sitting in my parts box just in case they're called back to duty.
is this question from the past? Sound like from 2005 latest
This is the best video I have seen on bleeding Maguras. I think the tip about adjusting the fluid level is massively important, otherwise it can be easy to over or under-fill the system.
Great to know glad it helped!
Cheers
Owen
@@OwenBikeNerd Next up you guys should do a video showing how to get the Magura caliper back on the bike with zero pad rub. Could just be a me problem, but I find getting Magura brakes setup so they don't have any rotor rub to be a near impossible. Shimano, SRAM, Hayes, etc. are all easy in comparison because they have so much pad clearance. Perhaps I'm missing something. A simple google search seems to indicate that lots of people struggle with this. I just pulled a set of Magura MT Trails off my bike because I got tired of sinking so much time into getting them aligned perfectly, just to have them start rubbing again.
I burst the master cylinder on my MT5 pro by pushing pistons back in on the rear without removing bleed screw first. Now running shigura on the rear, magura on the front and I prefer shigura. Still plenty of modulation, although less so easier to break hard and less achey on the fingers for sustained braking. Also found bleeding less faffy, there was no try again to make it better it just worked. MT5 caliper, magura hose, shimano olive and barb with slx lever, using royal blood for anyone who cares.
It's the lever on my mt7'8...crap goin swap out with shimano levers see how it goes.
I would love to see a world where GMBN is ALSO the GO-TO for servicing components with granular focus - imagine something similar to the SRAM video tutorials but for lets say a 2017-2020 FOX transfer seatpost services.
There’s definitely a gaping whole in the TH-cam market for such granular videos and GMBN is the perfect driver for this.
Here’s to hoping.(:
let's see what we can do! thanks for the support! 🫶
Biggest thing on these is to rotate the lever assembly and cycle a few times, there's some air that easily gets trapped in there. Would be hard to do with that open-top reservoir here - easy with the magura kit syringe (once you put a hole in it).
Great tip!
Cheers
Owen
what do you mean with "putting a hole in it"?
@@esshoul Retract the plunger all the way (don't pull it out) and use a hot nail or drill to add a small air hole (~1/8") through the side of the syringe body. That lets air escape when you push fluid up from the caliper syringe. Then you can put your finger over the hole to keep fluid from spilling out when you remove it.
@@TheBabylonJohn thanks man, I was dumb enough to just remove the plunger and then cursed on how idiotic this basic magura kit is...
@@esshoul funny. that tip is from Jude at Magura - one of their head tech guys, showed me at Sea Otter one year.
Definitely the best instruction video I’ve seen,. Well done….
Glad it was helpful!
Getting that caliper higher than master cylinder is the most crucial part of bleeding MT brakes and getting that fluid level right. Getting those air bubbles out takes some time with how master cylinder is designed but that caliper part is the most important thing.
Sure that your rotors are tuned and not warped. If its a new brake, you can push the fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder, but if its a used seasoned bike, never ever push the fluid from the back. All those debris will get stuck in the master cylinder. Best to have the front bike down and back wheel up to easily push the air from the master cylinder to the caliper.
Well just so happens I need to bleed my magura mt7’s so good timing that this video has come out
Well just so happens I need to bleed my magura mt5’s so good timing that this video has come out🙂
How about the rear caliper? Remove from the frame aswell? 😂
It takes a little bit of juggling with the bike angle, but the technique with balancing the fluid level is the same! No need to remove the brake system from the bike 👌
Hi,
Great question - you'll need to balance the master cylinder / caliper position - so it will be easier to do that with the brake off the frame mount - but you shouldn't have to remove it completely - you will have to do some brain gym - but its do-able.
Raising the caliper up inline with the master cylinder helps set the fluid level - its simple a effective technique.
Cheers
Owen
Two syringes works the best for me.
I own Magura's on two bikes. I always tell people my brakes are like a hot girlfriend. They are high maintenance, expensive but damn, they feel good! They are way more touchy to bleed than most brakes but all Magura owners become experts in bleeding brakes, as they have to do it often.
Having Magura brakes on most of my bikes, including my sole remaining rim brake bike which has Magura HS 33's , I find it comical that people find it difficult to bleed them properly.
I didn't find it comical dude, that's why I'm running anything but magura now. I tried to get them right but the rear and front were never the same level of crispy, I paid a shop to bleed the mt7 and switched pads and rotors they were fine for about 4 rides, then the rear became mushy again. Geez man they're beautiful but...😂
@@LawrenceMacMacster Sorry to hear you had bad experience with them. I've never had any issues with them feeling different between front or rear on my bikes. Oh well, that's why there are so many decent choices from other manufacturers.
I put mt5 estop onto my yt decoy front brake beld up no issue. Got the rear bled uo good enough first 3-4 spin I was delighted with them the got spongy. Nd completely failed to slow me one day I gave 4 weeks off work because of the resulting accident. So shimano xt were ordered while I was injured.
When using the HC3 levers, is there an adjustment setting that is best for the bleeding process, does it matter at all?
Great question - with other brake systems the way the lever pushes the master cylinder then yes some lever adjustment is required - but the way the magura's MT Series levers push the master cylinder - I don't feel its required - even with the HC3 lever.
Cheers
Owen
Oh look another front magura brake video
sempre tutti bravi a spurgare i freni anteriori. chissà perchè non fanno mai video sullo spurgo dei freni posteriori.
I use this method when doing a full flush. When its fresher I do the bottom and when im doing a shock treatment its just from the top.
Owen, have you ever come across a quick fix for a leaking master cylinder on the mt7 ?
I had MT7 trail pros and developed a leak on the rear caliper seal. Was informed by Maguea that they’re not replaceable and the whole caliper assembly has to be replaced.
I duly did just that. With Shimano Saints, and I’ll never put Maura on any of my bikes.
OWEN!!! Help!!
Brakes have ALWAYS been the thorn in my MTB maintenance life! SOMETHING ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE RUBBING!
I’ve given up on figuring out what keeps happening because I seem to never get to the bottom of it.
Also, I often see that pistons on one side are far more protruding than the other - I go push them back in and sometimes they fix themselves but most times they’re unbalanced. HEEELP!!!
An imbalance of pistons isn't particularly the worst thing, providing that the rotor is in the right place for them to both meet and apply even pressure to it! The rubbing can take quite a while to fix though! First off, look straight down against a brighter surface such as a tiled floor, then spin the wheel, if there's any warp in the rotor try and straighten it using a metal tool (not fingers). If it's too bad its new rotor time. Then, providing the brake isn't overbled it should just be a case of microadjustments to the positioning of the caliper to line things up! Hope that helps
@@gmbntech I completely forgot about the caliper adjustment!! THANK YOU!!
4:56 the screw is actually a "torx plus 25", not "torx 25". why does not even magura realise this? sure, the T25 bit will work, but torx plus 25 is the correct bit.
yikes, I mean you tried to make it look simple by only showing the front brakes :D
@gmbntech in trying to clean my pistons on my mt5s, i accidentally popped out one onf the pots. Can i just pop it back in, or is it new caliper time?
I did this on my mt5 caliper, i popped it straight back in, swore at myself a lot, did a big clean up of all the spilt oil, bled the fucker and got on with my life. I have heard others say the seal was ruined and it leaked fluid after though so basically you'll just have to try to find out. I'd keep the wheel off over night to avoid risking contaminating rotor and pads and see if any has spilled, give a few light pulls on the lever to make sure it doesn't leak when pistons are partially extended and if all ok push them back in (with bleed port open as you could burst the master cylinder (i did exactly that when pushing pistons back in)).
Step 0: swap the levers
Step:0 dont ever buy magura
I've read this type of comment a hundred times and it's not fair to Magura. Yes, the lever breaks easier than most when hit hard, but otherwise they last forever, which cannot be said for a lot of other brakes.
@@vlbz no, it's absolutely fair. They had near perfect design 20 years ago and since then only adapted it for mass manufacturing. Even swapping for those older Marta or Louise is an upgrade. And since they actually last forever, you can still find them in very good condition.
@@feedbackzaloopget lost dude. The levers are fine. You are creating a problem that really isn’t there. Nothing but a shill
@@Crouderwhy? If you are making such an ignorant comment then explain. Or are you just another typical TH-cam muppet 😂? I bet you are a muppet aren’t you
After years of trying to successfully bleed MT5’s on my own, I’ve given up.
I'm struggling to see the point in changing the fluid just looks like job cuz your told its what to do im sure its fine for years
I miss Doddy over this guy and the other girl 😢
How to bleed a Magura brake…… don’t. 😂
Step one, put the MT5 you just bought on wife bike and get MT7.
Bleed then realize you don't want to deal with magura brakes 😂
magura sucks balls