How to replace a Ball Joint and Control Arm on a Ford Focus 2015 TDCI MK3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.พ. 2019
- I forgot to mention in the video of how large the diameter of the ball joint's pin is. Compare this with one of my other videos on ball joints, where the diameter is much shorter. This goes to show it's a good idea to buy a car that's got a beefier big brother as in the case with the Focus TDCI having a bigger brother RS with its stouter structure.
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The instructions from the Ford E-manual 2017, is remove, lower ball joint screw and bolt, then the two front control arm bolt, finally remove the two rear control arm bolts also holding down the contact point of the stabilizer bar to the sub-frame.
Emanual for Ford (up to 2017) is up again £9.99 ova file 16GB needed...needs about 12 hours to download
www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Fo...
Ford Focus Owner's Manual ...
www.ford.co.uk/owner/my-vehic... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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For the less experienced person this video is incredibly useful and it is the only video on youtube for this model of car which provides an extensive explanation of the steps to remove the ball joint. It would be more constructive if the persons who provided negative comments were to take the time and trouble to post their own video if they have a better method. Thank you so much Education Pineapple.
Tebrik ediyorum ustam evde tamir sevenlere güzel video olmuş . Böyle parça çıkmayınca ağlayacağım geliyor. Türkiyeden selamlar.
Yorumun için sen
Good work, it's nice to see some of the reality of doing it DIY.
Been referencing this vid as replacing control arm on my 07 focus, very helpful, and interesting that the design of the older focus makes some of this process easier. Much easier to slide in the new arm, and having nuts welded to the top of the arm made things less fiddly.
On the older focus there's only a top nut on the ball joint rather than on the side, was completely rusted on and very difficult to access. Would say to anyone having trouble with it don't be afraid to hacksaw it off where it meets the top of the knuckle, then use a pickle fork ( get the 22mm wide one for focus 07 and later). I had to come at it from the other side of the ball joint to get it to wedge in properly, a 2.5lb sledgehammer was the only hammer that got it done.
The problem with new cars is that they're less and less driveway repair friendly. This job is much simpler on a lift, because the official ball joint removal procedure is literally a chain and a large lever, which obviously you won't have enough of a space to use on the ground.
You'd be wise to disconnect the track rod end too, give yourself more room. Just did this job myself on a 2006 C-max
Great help
Great video! Super helpful, thank you!
You can change the ball joint separately I did it the other day although it was a lot of aggravation it cannot be done outside of a ramp the pins have to be ground off on the bottom air chiseled on the top and drilled and punched out from the bottom with someone helping you to line the ball joint back in as well as greasing the seized 18 mill bolt under the ball joint , it is a headache but can be done .
Yes that is good to hear you can buy ball joints alone for this car in 2024. I still have the arm I took off back in the video waiting for ball joints parts and if the same arm goes bad again.
@@EducationPineappleI did it with the arm still on the vehicle , It may of been easier if i had taken it all off but the 18 mill bolt under the the ball joint was well seized , so the others may well of been too , just a foot note going by what I experienced next time I do it I will do it off the vehicle despite the rear bolts maybe being seized .
Remember to copper slip the bolts before putting it back in .
Yes I usually put some copper antisieve on bolts...
@@EducationPineappleGreat stuff , if it was done in the factories and by others working on cars e t c there would be a lit less aggravation for others .
How did you end up getting the ball joint bolt out? The one that holds the ball joint on
Screw the nut back on until flush with the bolt end. Use a flat ended hammer(initially) and tapping tool that fits into the bolt hole. Tap the hole end a little bit (you can use a hammer when the nut is still on the bolt). Rotate the bolt end anti-clock wise a bit. Tap it a little bit and keep repeating until nut is seated next to the hub wall. Unscrew the nut by two turns. Repeat the tapping and unscrewing. Give the nut two more unscrews, repeat. Take the nut off completely. Use the flat rod end only to start working it into the hole until either only tapping keeps bring it out or rotating it brings it out. Notice the bolt at 18:07 into the video has not got threads for most of the bolt, only the end 1/3 bit.
Tell me i have a 2013 ford focus diesel , every time i put diesel in it clicks all the time , does it have a one way valve on the bottom of the neck the top partt of the neck has been changed so it can't be that .
You should have a MK3 Focus, old style front grill. If it is the same as my MK3.5 then at the filler entrance there is a silver flap that obscures the hole that is normally visible in cars without 'auto fuel caps'. This silver flap is not a non-return valve but is in fact a device designed for the allowing of diesel fueling nozzles to be place in the hole. The bigger petrol nozzle will not unlock the ability to refuel. This is why you need to carry around in your car a FORD adapter in case you ever need to refuel with a fuel container, say because you ran out of fuel. With regards to your question about a non- return valve lower in the throat, I would say it would be illogical of a manufacturer to place a non-return valve inside a flexible rubber hose and also illogical in the first place to have any non-return valve as tank pressure have to be balanced with outside pressures as the tank empties under normal use and a valve may inhibit air filling the tank. I would say with your problem specifically it may be something as simple as the rubber pipe being too long and is kinked. Possible someone broke off the auto device by trying to force the wrong diameter pipe down it say in an attempt in stealing your fuel, thus leaving parts of the auto device embedded in the neck and causing an obstruction leading to the filling 'clicks' and why you had yo change the top part some how.
@@EducationPineappleWel, I did change the top part of it so unless there's something in the bottom of the neck blocking some of the diesel I don't know what's wrong with it I think many of that age of model had the same problem .
@@EducationPineappleThe answer to this problem is certainly not on you tube , not even my petrol head friend knows the answer.
☝️you must always loosen the steering ball joint and stabilizer bar first, otherwise you cannot disassemble the wishbone. also have to put a hex key in the middle of the ball joint and turn a little to the left or right, to release.😉
The instructions from the Ford E-manual 2017, is remove, lower ball joint screw and bolt, then the two front control arm bolt, finally remove the two rear control arm bolts also holding down the contact point of the stabilizer bar to the sub-frame. There is no mention of anything else. You can see me performing this routine in the video.
Hey thank you for showing me the home method pound it in method I appreciate you
Pro tip: watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
@Landry Benjamin Yea, I've been using Flixzone} for since november myself :)
The E-manual you posted. Is that applicable to any Ford Focus Model?
Yes, within reason of age. It's got modern Ford dating back about 10 years, and from Focuses to Mustangs. The one I have is called Ford 2017, so goes up to 2018. You'll need to check yourself if there's a Ford 2021 etc.
Would this be the same as the grand cmax 2013 at all
look up a spare part for your car and match it with the one I have and it could be similar of they look the same.
2015 and you have to replace a Ball Joint and Control Arm ? How many miles??
I'm afraid so. Nobody makes them yet for this model. It's done 136,000 miles.
Education Pineapple it’s high mileage ok
All ford focuses have shitty control arms. And hub assemblies. Fragile vehicles, it's why they're so cheap
Speaking from a European perspective...as a daily driver of a Fiesta MK5 and previously two Focus MK1s...on terrible rural Irish roads...I would have to say that they have given me no more trouble than any other vehicles in my family. The simplicity (beam axle) means that unlike my mother's VW, the Fiesta doesn't munch through bushings and ball joints at quite the same rate.
Ford are often looked down upon for their 'cheapness'...but from real-world experience....they still hold up quite well. I caught the edge of a parked Toyota's fully locked wheel while passing on a narrow street a while back and the impact was sufficient to bend my shock absorber and destroy the steering rack of the Toyota. The Ford control arm was undamaged though.
Youre the man. What is the name of that tool? I need something that can fit in there. Thats the last thing I have to do then this car can fuck off for good.
Sorry for the late reply...that was an old tool that me or my brother got, together with a tool box...probably 30 years ago...just look around on ebay I suggest for the same one. Always keep every tool you ever get including the imperial spanners etc.
First of all, remember when You will tighten the screws of swingarm, do it when car is sitting well on the ground. Otherwise You can damage silentblocks. Second thing - Your metal ball joint cover looks damaged, it’s good thing to replace it for a new one. And another thing - all three bolts of swingarm should be replaced for a new ones - they have a threadlock, and don’t worry about the torque - 150Nm and 90 degrees on front bolt is safe, I did it more than 90 and it’s perfectly fine. Those bolts have good hardeness. Of course always put a new bolt and nut to tight up ball joint to steering knuckle. If the ball joint don’t want to go out from steering knuckle, You can try simple thing - put some kind of chisel where the metal ball joint cover is, between parts of steering knuckle, and try to widen aperture. Then ball joint should go out easily when use some kind of pry tool. Greetings.
I would never recommend initially tightening up the control arm with the car sitting on the ground. Might be worth doing after initial tightening although then you might not be able to fit any spanners, wrenches in the very short ground clearance left. Do professional garages put a car on a lift 6ft high, put the arm on, insert some (new bolts) then lower it to the ground to be tightened? No they don't. They put on a new arm, and tighten the arm mid air and use the same bolts. Never tighten something under tension. Never. In fact think about how new cars are made on the production line. Cars elevated whilst the arm is tightened, with no road wheel on. I am sure - go see for yourself. Only occasionally I change any bolts, for example the bolt on a drivebelt tensioner, or the bolt on the crankshaft, rusty bolts. Please use common sense when fixing cars. If I quote a torque it's usually from the manufacturer's manual, Haynes manual, or emanual. If you don't follow those guidelines, things can go wrong. As an example see my timing belt change on this car video. I used a torque of about 25Nm instead of 10Nm and the 'New' bolt snapped straight off.
I agree about initial tightening, ok, it can be done when car is up. But final tightening with right torque always should be done at 'construction height' of the car. That part where You written about professionals garages - I can say one thing - they are not professional, they just counting time and money, and waiting for another client to come. I know how cars are made on production line, also I know how they mounting suspension - sorry, You are wrong. I don’t want to believe that You not know how metal/rubber silentblock works and what is a swingarm operating range. For example - try to replace whole rear suspension in Focus mk1 and tighten everything when car is up... Good luck, after few months You’ll have to replace it again. Do not be offended, this is how I doing a suspensions services, and I’ve made it quite a lot in different cars.
@@silastypol Think about the production line at a car factory. The robot tightens the bolts with the car in the air, or even before when it is installed as a single unit and lifted upwards towards the car chassis. The reason I take time to reply to your post is to make sure people don't get damaging advice and comments embedded into their jobs. See the next video on the Ford Focus production th-cam.com/video/IiounrP492U/w-d-xo.html see the video at 4:10 and 5:29 when the whole engine (supported underneath), suspension unit is lifted upwards towards the chassis plus at 5:29 wheels are put on. Notice the whole unit goes up, all tightened up, including the engine without the weight of the car. And notice the wheels are put on and then nothing else apart from the car is lowered and rolled along. And please don't be offended by my next comment. The reason for the existence of TH-camrs like me is because of the number of times we've taken our cars to maintenance guys and been burnt.
I understand You, and of course I won’t be offened :) You are right, I’m doing exactly the same - almost everything with my car, I’m doing by myself. Because a lot of times mechanics messed up their jobs... I have an access to Ford ETIS and I’m using torques as ETIS recommend. Last time when I’ve changed halfshaft sealing in gearbox, I’ve tightened everything with right torque using new bolts. For example, ball joint bolt should be tighten 83Nm, old bolt should be replaced for the safety reasons. I’ve also watched this video from production line of Focus mk4, and again I’m disagree with You. Why? Take a look again at this video, then You’ll see that body of the car, of course is lifted up. But look down at the whole suspension and engine - it is there whole tightened earlier with correct operating range of bushings, and everything is sitting on a two big yellow lifters, which raise whole suspension to it’s „construction’s height”. After that guys tighten everything to body. Look at 4:33 when guy tigtens suspension to body. At the right side there is an puller with chain hooked to body to get down properly. And finally, this is a text straight from ETIS: ‚NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur.
Tighten the front lower arm-to-frame bolt. Torque: stage 1: 150Nm, stage 2: 90 degree.
Rear two bolts: 1. Finger tight. 2. Tighten the nuts: stage 1: 115Nm. Stage 2: 90 degree.
That’s all.
@@silastypol During the production of the car, the weight of the car is not on the control arm, not even the weight of the engine as it is lifted from below. What are you talking about? Where is there any extra compression weight to set up these bushings? Have you filled in these images that is not there in your head? The whole suspension assembly is lifted up and fastened. And that is it. I too have the Ford Emanual. It says nothing about placing the car's wheels on the floor first to tighten. It also says nothing of the sort in Haynes manuals either on Mk 3 mondeos. It just quotes torque setting which you have suggested in your first comment to go over the 90 degrees after initial torquing. Read you own comment. Bushings are there to absorb shock. That is all. They are moveable. That means they'll bend to what ever stress is placed on them. Tightening the arm with a loose bolt and having the full weight of the car's quarter side on is is 1) dangerous as the bolt can dislodge. 2) definitely going to shift into an awkward unnatural position as you tighten. Even if you do a little bit on each bolt at a time. 3) chance of cross threading the bolts is very high. 4) inability to achieve the required torque due to the wrench hitting the floor. You are definitely setting yourself up for failure and making your job unnecessarily hard. The final proof in doing this job like me with common sense is the the car afterwards needed no tracking alterations. It was perfect. Been riding well and handling as expected. Watch some more TH-cam car mechanics if you want more proof. See Scotty kilmer ( how to fix a car that clunks - lower control arm). See also another Ford production video. ( Ford explorer production ( USA car factory). My stainless steel ball joint dust cover was not damaged, just twisted around for easier access.
Hope he’s not hour rate
Why don't you use a socket set and ratchet as well make your life easier everything is not have to be a long bar come on mate with a ratchet you would have done these quicker and her hydraulic or compressor tool kit
Brits are so complicated, just tell the main steps then replace it.. most people don’t even do it themselves
You taking for too long should have done it more quicker and have a ratchet set is better it will be also advisable to get a compressor to make your life a little bit easier well I'll give you 5 out of 10 for good effort
I prefer to take my time and get it right, when I do a job the first time on a particular car. Next time will be half the time on this car.
Could of just grinded the studs off on the end and replaced that part cheaper to
I have done that for an old mk 3 mondeo, but at the time of the video, there was/ is no ball joint available for the mk3.5 focus.
Video lags spend more time buffering.
No lagging on mine. Must be your set up
No lag for me either. Spend more time checking your network speed before critiquing this helpful man
Yea no lag here stop stealing mcdonalds wifi and pay for your own!