Great video! Just rolled over 80k on a 2016 Focus ST. I especially appreciated the details about loosening the endlinks (although I did the bottom of it) in order to free that sway bar a little. I worked for a few hours without that detail, and it was close to impossible. After watching your video, popped it right in! The only details I noticed: Spec calls for the front bolt to be torqued to 111 ft-lb (150Nm) and rearward bolts to 85ft-lb (115Nm), under the weight of the car, or suspension loaded. Other repair videos used a jack to put the knuckle under that pressure. Without this "Incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur". Cheers, and good luck to anyone in the future!
just did mine today, hardest parts were lining up the rear mount with the stabilizer bar bushing, also getting the ball joint back into the knuckle. I torqued my front bushing to 110 ft-lbs then 90 more degrees (speck from a repair manual) I also used blue thread locker on all four bolts. Still have the passenger side to do. I was thinking instead of removing the compressor I will lift the engine up a little out of the way because I will be doing so anyway to replace the top motor mount. I will be attempting this all this easter Sunday. Hopefully, the toruqe and tread locker will keep the control are tight.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to record your repairs. This is going to help me out tremendously when I replace the passenger side control arm, steering knuckle and bearing on my 2013 Focus this weekend.
Just got back from an oil change at the dealership, they said the bushings are cracked just like yours were, I'm just about to roll over 80k on mine as well. Glad you made this video so I can do it myself! Thank you! 🙏🙏🤙🤙
@@tps64 probably like a 3/5 bruised knuckles. Some of those bolts are pretty hard to get to. An impact gun/ breaker bar of some sorts will be very helpful for stuck bolts. But if you go at it with a can do attitude anything made by a people can be fixed by people
@@tps64 well it’s 2-300 dollars worth of parts and probably 2 hour job (or less) (assuming 100$ an hour) 500 would be much more fair price. Just a hint, instead of removing the ac condenser you can just take the bolts out of the upper engine mount and lift the engine up and you will just bearly be able to take out the one bolt
Replace those lug nuts with some quality one piece lug nuts man. You will be glad you did. I had the tire shop change mine out since I was getting a tire rotation anyway.
Great video! Thanks for putting it together! Question: Is it possible to replace the large bushings only, on the front, lower control arms... instead of changing out the entire control arm?
On this one I have to remove it because the compressor is on top of it. I try short cut as possible but still can't do it without remove the compressor.
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Great video! Just rolled over 80k on a 2016 Focus ST. I especially appreciated the details about loosening the endlinks (although I did the bottom of it) in order to free that sway bar a little. I worked for a few hours without that detail, and it was close to impossible.
After watching your video, popped it right in! The only details I noticed: Spec calls for the front bolt to be torqued to 111 ft-lb (150Nm) and rearward bolts to 85ft-lb (115Nm), under the weight of the car, or suspension loaded. Other repair videos used a jack to put the knuckle under that pressure. Without this "Incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur". Cheers, and good luck to anyone in the future!
just did mine today, hardest parts were lining up the rear mount with the stabilizer bar bushing, also getting the ball joint back into the knuckle. I torqued my front bushing to 110 ft-lbs then 90 more degrees (speck from a repair manual) I also used blue thread locker on all four bolts. Still have the passenger side to do. I was thinking instead of removing the compressor I will lift the engine up a little out of the way because I will be doing so anyway to replace the top motor mount. I will be attempting this all this easter Sunday. Hopefully, the toruqe and tread locker will keep the control are tight.
I also used a jack to lift the suspension up before tightening in the front bushing bolt.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to record your repairs. This is going to help me out tremendously when I replace the passenger side control arm, steering knuckle and bearing on my 2013 Focus this weekend.
You welcome it's will be fun 😁😁😁
@@alltsab hey quick question where is the bushing bolt location? I need to loosen it but no idea where it’s located
@@otbs9967 not sure what bushings bolt I don't know what you try to find
Just got back from an oil change at the dealership, they said the bushings are cracked just like yours were, I'm just about to roll over 80k on mine as well. Glad you made this video so I can do it myself! Thank you! 🙏🙏🤙🤙
You welcome help me subscribe ok thanks for watching
I just bent down my ac line a little worked like a charm.
Thanks for your everything you do for all
You welcome 🙏
You can also unbolt the top motor mount from the frame and Jack up the motor a bit for that one bolt blocked by ac lines great video btw
Thanks for this tip! I thought I was done for when I saw that pipe, but jacking the engine gave me just enough clearance.
I use a chisel to lightly spread the the LCA BJ mounting location to make it easier to load the ball joint into the hole.
Thanks man this video helped me a lot. Just swapped out my control arms.
how hard was it to do. ive only ever really changed my brakes
@@tps64 probably like a 3/5 bruised knuckles. Some of those bolts are pretty hard to get to. An impact gun/ breaker bar of some sorts will be very helpful for stuck bolts. But if you go at it with a can do attitude anything made by a people can be fixed by people
@@zandurka1 ok cool im gonna a buddy to help me try and do it. fucking mechanics want 750 dollars
@@tps64 well it’s 2-300 dollars worth of parts and probably 2 hour job (or less) (assuming 100$ an hour) 500 would be much more fair price. Just a hint, instead of removing the ac condenser you can just take the bolts out of the upper engine mount and lift the engine up and you will just bearly be able to take out the one bolt
Great job. Working on suspension is not easy.
Replace those lug nuts with some quality one piece lug nuts man. You will be glad you did. I had the tire shop change mine out since I was getting a tire rotation anyway.
I wonder if you could loosing the upper motor mount and raise the engine a tad instead of messing with that ac compressor
Just been trying to replace the right side on mine, but I think I’ve popped the drive shaft out, any ideas how to get it back in😅
Thank you!
Great video! Thanks for putting it together! Question: Is it possible to replace the large bushings only, on the front, lower control arms... instead of changing out the entire control arm?
Yes but that it take lot more time and better just replace the whole thing.
There's something wrong with the passenger side focus ball joint. I've had it go out twice and every video on TH-cam is of the passenger
Excellent video, difficult to show in a tight work space, terrible Ford design for serviceability. Well done!
Thanks
Lol good thing my condenser is leaking and I did this first. I just disconnected the line
Thank you
Hello, will these arms fit 2013 Ford Focus SE Hatchback? Regular gas model. Thank you
Why don’t you use a breaker bar to break the bottom bolts?
Can't fit
Which brand or specific control arms do you recommend best from orielys or autozone like duralast or motor craft etc…
In my opinion those two brand in different box but parts are the same
@@alltsab same as Precision
Meyle 🎉
I don’t see the reason to remove the
A/C compressor!!!
On this one I have to remove it because the compressor is on top of it. I try short cut as possible but still can't do it without remove the compressor.
What video did you watch? The bolt would not come out due to the compressor
Thank you
You welcome