⭐⭐⭐⭐If you liked the video and want to show your support, you can use any of these links to purchase ANY ITEM you normally would off of Amazon and we get a small commission with no extra cost to you! Make sure to complete orders through the links! Here's some tools to get started! Thank You! DEWALT 20V Max Impact Driver Kit, 1/4-in: amzn.to/3y0vDRJ 5 Pieces Magnetic Telescoping Pick-up Tool Kit: amzn.to/3knxckI Magnetic Screwdrivers Set with Case, Amartisan 42-piece: amzn.to/39sTSxT CRAFTSMAN Mechanics Tools Kit with 3 Drawer Box, 216-Piece: amzn.to/3Nux6UL ANCEL V6 PRO Bidirectional Scan Tool: amzn.to/3wRcvDy CASOMAN Master Torx Bit Socket and External Torx Socket Set, 60-Piece Set: amzn.to/3NbWUpe Thorstone No Spill Coolant Funnel Kit: amzn.to/3m1dADS DEWALT Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/3QkoHp4 AVID POWER Cordless Electric Ratchet Wrench, 3/8": amzn.to/3Qfsiox
I had that problem a couple of times Ultimately boiled down to me using a aftermarket sensor when I got one from the dealership I no longer had that problem
@@sharpcarcoI just tested 3 sensor none had the continuity to the body. I was pissed off so pull the plug to buy the original from mercedez. I was sure that would work and when I got it and tested it same shity luck. There's no continuity when checking the body.😢 I'm not sure if Is bad luck or all these sensors are indeed defective...
My OM642 has a 0 lambda value. So EGR is not functioning. O2 sensor is 0.2v-1.1v. I think it’s bad. Replaced the sensor, new voltages is 0.25v-0.76v. Lambda is still 0. Do I need to drive a lot to reset the lambda value? Thanks!
Yeah I got it all done and while I was working on it I removed the dipstick tube so I didn’t break the Off the top of it. And it was blowing out oil out of the dipstick tube like crazy. So I did a blow by test on it and there’s a shit ton of blow by in this hundred thousand mile engine which is really surprising to me I had to call the customer and tell him. It seems to be fine running wise and all of that. But there is some kind of problem here, ……
Well thank you very much and we greatly appreciate having folks that appreciate us here on the channel I suppose that’s why we don’t have that many folks 😂😂😂 if you ever have a question it’s best to reach out to me on my Facebook if you have it under clays ac and Auto Repair I answer the questions quickly and we can share information I don’t track people or any of that bullshit I just try to help people out for free.
I'm new to Sprinters, just got one, a 2012 with an OM642, and I've heard that term "Deleted" mentioned. What does it mean to have a "Deleted" Sprinter?
Well first off, it’s illegal to delete something. It means that all of the omissions are gone. Emissions are the biggest causes of problems with these vehicles. If it wasn’t for the emissions they would never break down. Because they’re exceptional engines and transmissions and basically that’s all they are is an engine of transmission and a rear differential. Extremely simple, simple vehicles with the exception of other government mandated exhaust restrictions, which caused a serious internal problems for the engines and require thousands of dollars at the Mercedes dealership There’s very few people in the country that actually understand them, so finding a repair facility that knows anything about them other than the dealership is extremely limited. Obviously I know a considerable amount about them probably just about everything.
Well of course we can see them on our screen but there’s a lot of folks that don’t have the access to the bi directional readings so I thought this was a little bit more helpful.
@@sharpcarco oh yeah definitely - way more likely diy-ers will have access to a multimeter than advanced diagnostics. I just had a look through live data KOEO and saw the back pressure sensor showing 930kpa while other barometric sensors were reading 995kpa.
True . And I’m not quite that smart I don’t often know what the base lines are supposed to be so it’s easier for me to use the multi meter to diagnose things often. But that’s because I’m pretty ignorant and I work on a lot of different types of vehicles. Also I try to explain things The way that I learned them. Sometimes I’m incorrect. But I guess that’s why I’m a nobody TH-cam mechanic LOL
@@sharpcarco We all have our methods. As for the base lines, especially atmospheric, you can just reference other sensors like the map or even the DPF differential sensors in some cases. When I had a Galaxy S7 I used to use that and a free app with the internal barometer to double check the current readings. Other sensors like temp sensors can be interesting. You either get low voltages back (0.1-1) or if you get a reading in C it's pretty obvious. I had an Audi A1 that thought the ambient was -130c. Ran terribly.
Hello The Clay Way, good afternoon Can you Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy
If you message me on clays AC and Auto Repair on Facebook I can send you a picture. After I go look at mine and remember where it’s at……. Pretty sure it’s down by the EGR valve though it’s got to be Has to be in the boost line somewhere
Sorry I don’t know either but if you wanna give me a better description of what’s going on I might be able to help More than likely that’s a generic code meaning it will have that code no matter what
Sorry but your test is not conclusive ,you cannot test for 5 v ref or ground in the way you tested because if there is a resistance in the 5 v ref wire or ground wire the test you done will still show you 5 v, you need to load the circuit to conclusively prove the integrity of the wiring which you didn’t,if the fault was in the wiring and you put a new sensor in then boom your back to square one scratching the head, always load test wiring my friend.
Was trying to conduct it in a way that would still to prove that the sensor was bad at the end of the video I mentioned that you could have a broken wire in the system but we’re more so concerned with the 5 V reference to the sensor. And would’ve had to look up the exact pin to see if the reference was coming back but because my reference was it being seen there wouldn’t be any sense in doing the test to see if it was going back to the Ecm. I’m fairly certain I mentioned that in the video. But I am not Super at these kinds of test. It was just what I noticed when testing the sensor. I didn’t see any other videos of people testing the sensor so I thought I would throw this out there. Hopefully people will read the comments and learn from the mistake I made.
⭐⭐⭐⭐If you liked the video and want to show your support, you can use any of these links to purchase ANY ITEM you normally would off of Amazon and we get a small commission with no extra cost to you! Make sure to complete orders through the links! Here's some tools to get started! Thank You!
DEWALT 20V Max Impact Driver Kit, 1/4-in: amzn.to/3y0vDRJ
5 Pieces Magnetic Telescoping Pick-up Tool Kit: amzn.to/3knxckI
Magnetic Screwdrivers Set with Case, Amartisan 42-piece: amzn.to/39sTSxT
CRAFTSMAN Mechanics Tools Kit with 3 Drawer Box, 216-Piece: amzn.to/3Nux6UL
ANCEL V6 PRO Bidirectional Scan Tool: amzn.to/3wRcvDy
CASOMAN Master Torx Bit Socket and External Torx Socket Set, 60-Piece Set: amzn.to/3NbWUpe
Thorstone No Spill Coolant Funnel Kit: amzn.to/3m1dADS
DEWALT Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/3QkoHp4
AVID POWER Cordless Electric Ratchet Wrench, 3/8": amzn.to/3Qfsiox
Great info! Does the ECU needs reset after changing the exhaust back pressure sensor? It seems just clearing the error code doesn’t work.
I had that problem a couple of times
Ultimately boiled down to me using a aftermarket sensor when I got one from the dealership I no longer had that problem
@@sharpcarcoI just tested 3 sensor none had the continuity to the body. I was pissed off so pull the plug to buy the original from mercedez. I was sure that would work and when I got it and tested it same shity luck. There's no continuity when checking the body.😢 I'm not sure if Is bad luck or all these sensors are indeed defective...
My OM642 has a 0 lambda value. So EGR is not functioning. O2 sensor is 0.2v-1.1v. I think it’s bad. Replaced the sensor, new voltages is 0.25v-0.76v. Lambda is still 0. Do I need to drive a lot to reset the lambda value? Thanks!
I don't miss working on those 642 turbos. I feel for you.
Yeah I got it all done and while I was working on it I removed the dipstick tube so I didn’t break the Off the top of it.
And it was blowing out oil out of the dipstick tube like crazy. So I did a blow by test on it and there’s a shit ton of blow by in this hundred thousand mile engine which is really surprising to me I had to call the customer and tell him.
It seems to be fine running wise and all of that. But there is some kind of problem here, ……
@@sharpcarco checked the PCV?
can I ask what’s the reason to remove this sensor ?
Hi , do You know what torque thittening is for back pressure sensor?
Finally i found a great DIY mercedies mechanic. Thanks you for all the informations . And you got 1 more subscriber 😃
Well thank you very much and we greatly appreciate having folks that appreciate us here on the channel I suppose that’s why we don’t have that many folks 😂😂😂 if you ever have a question it’s best to reach out to me on my Facebook if you have it under clays ac and Auto Repair I answer the questions quickly and we can share information I don’t track people or any of that bullshit I just try to help people out for free.
I'm new to Sprinters, just got one, a 2012 with an OM642, and I've heard that term "Deleted" mentioned. What does it mean to have a "Deleted" Sprinter?
Well first off, it’s illegal to delete something.
It means that all of the omissions are gone. Emissions are the biggest causes of problems with these vehicles. If it wasn’t for the emissions they would never break down. Because they’re exceptional engines and transmissions and basically that’s all they are is an engine of transmission and a rear differential. Extremely simple, simple vehicles with the exception of other government mandated exhaust restrictions, which caused a serious internal problems for the engines and require thousands of dollars at the Mercedes dealership
There’s very few people in the country that actually understand them, so finding a repair facility that knows anything about them other than the dealership is extremely limited. Obviously I know a considerable amount about them probably just about everything.
This is the sort of thing I take for granted with my diagnostics. I can literally see the voltage on the screen.
Well of course we can see them on our screen but there’s a lot of folks that don’t have the access to the bi directional readings so I thought this was a little bit more helpful.
@@sharpcarco oh yeah definitely - way more likely diy-ers will have access to a multimeter than advanced diagnostics.
I just had a look through live data KOEO and saw the back pressure sensor showing 930kpa while other barometric sensors were reading 995kpa.
True . And I’m not quite that smart I don’t often know what the base lines are supposed to be so it’s easier for me to use the multi meter to diagnose things often. But that’s because I’m pretty ignorant and I work on a lot of different types of vehicles.
Also I try to explain things The way that I learned them. Sometimes I’m incorrect. But I guess that’s why I’m a nobody TH-cam mechanic LOL
@@sharpcarco We all have our methods.
As for the base lines, especially atmospheric, you can just reference other sensors like the map or even the DPF differential sensors in some cases.
When I had a Galaxy S7 I used to use that and a free app with the internal barometer to double check the current readings.
Other sensors like temp sensors can be interesting. You either get low voltages back (0.1-1) or if you get a reading in C it's pretty obvious. I had an Audi A1 that thought the ambient was -130c. Ran terribly.
Proper ,ohnest mechanic !
Hello The Clay Way,
good afternoon
Can you Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
You are master . Thank you for sharring
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed.
That was awsome
Thanks man!
You’re very welcome
Where is the exhaust back pressure sensor on a 3.0 diesel sprinter?
If you message me on clays AC and Auto Repair on Facebook I can send you a picture.
After I go look at mine and remember where it’s at……. Pretty sure it’s down by the EGR valve though it’s got to be Has to be in the boost line somewhere
what can be wrong when sensor is brand new and instantly after turning caron and drive a little car is again in limp mode
More than likely, your intakes are stuck, but it could be a lot of things
I delete back pressure sensor on mercedes w176 with obd2 Bluetooth thru Phone but the light come back right after I start engine..
How is the situation now?
Ciao problemi con questo errore non trovo 11C000
Sorry I don’t know either but if you wanna give me a better description of what’s going on I might be able to help
More than likely that’s a generic code meaning it will have that code no matter what
I thought this was video how to delete
🤔 you have to use your head
Sorry but your test is not conclusive ,you cannot test for 5 v ref or ground in the way you tested because if there is a resistance in the 5 v ref wire or ground wire the test you done will still show you 5 v, you need to load the circuit to conclusively prove the integrity of the wiring which you didn’t,if the fault was in the wiring and you put a new sensor in then boom your back to square one scratching the head, always load test wiring my friend.
Was trying to conduct it in a way that would still to prove that the sensor was bad at the end of the video I mentioned that you could have a broken wire in the system but we’re more so concerned with the 5 V reference to the sensor. And would’ve had to look up the exact pin to see if the reference was coming back but because my reference was it being seen there wouldn’t be any sense in doing the test to see if it was going back to the Ecm.
I’m fairly certain I mentioned that in the video.
But I am not Super at these kinds of test. It was just what I noticed when testing the sensor. I didn’t see any other videos of people testing the sensor so I thought I would throw this out there.
Hopefully people will read the comments and learn from the mistake I made.
I thought it was illegal to delete exhaust emissions components. If so, you may want to delete this video.
It is but this video is not about deleting anything this is about testing the Exhaust pressure sensor.. it was already done before it came here.