This video is a bit more long-form than usual, If you are a regular viewer, maybe skip to about 00:07:00 - (though I hope you will watch it all anyway to help boost the video and allow it to reach and help more people) But many of you have seen me make this same point over and over in all of my printer review videos. And I've promised for a while that I'd stop repeating myself and make this separate video for the beginners. And now, in future videos I don't need to talk about 2k, 4k, 8k, 9k, 12k, 14k etc being misleading marketing terms anymore YAY! - I can just refer people here, which allows me to spend more time in reviews focusing on a printers features and the results it delivers. TLDW, please stop comparing printers by their K metric, that measures the screen resolution, not the print quality - we nee something new, please can we call use AVC instead.
Way too damn long... way to slow actually explaining the key point, and you spread it out so far most people will have forgotten your starting arguments for part A by the time you finish actually covering part B. Video could have been more informative, and not even five minutes long. I'd recommend you do less... ranting... on future videos meant to inform people. For information, and not just random entertainment, the length works against people and their attention spans or ability to focus. And ya, when it takes several minutes to realize yes you're just trying to mention the same obvious thing I figured this video might be about within two seconds of reading the title... talk about wasted time. If you want to spread this out to get more views and new people to the channel... not the right way to do it I'd say... Hit the touchy titles and clickbait ok... but focus on the point without wasting everyones time.
@@terricon4 I hear you, and my comment above is my attempt at damage control for earlier comments saying the same. I:ve even had some independent friends watch it now who have echoed what you have said so the message is heard loud and clear. What I do find odd is that when I check the stats on this video. It has higher engagement and a longer watch time than any other video I've put out in the last 6 months, which is crazy. It has more subscribers per view too. So whilst I do hear you, and take the feedback onboard, I will cut the waffle in future videos. The video itself is really resonating with a good group of people. and i believe it's likely the beginners who the video was aimed at who want this kind of buy info, as many other comments have suggested. I did go into this with an intentional slow burn intro, bit to drag it out, but so that people new to all this had time to digest the info I'm putting forward. I get that the first several minutes are the same point 3 different ways. That was intentional. I realised it was dragging and then instead of just moving on, apologised to my existing viewers for it happening. No idea if that helped or made it worse. It's all good feedback that will lead to better videos in future.
I always use the analogy of grains of sand on a beach. Because any display device is about pixel density as you point out. Not pixels in general. It’s why buying a TV for 4k for instance only starts making sense at a certain size/viewing distance. You have to get close enough for it to matter/you to see the individual grains of sand. Just a helpful analogy for laymen
All of the new printers are going to be 12k. The people over at Concepts3D told us last week that they 8k LCD panels that they and everyone else have been using have been discontinued. They are working to purchase enough of the remaining stock to cover warranties, etc. I opted for the 12k Athena more as a future proofing than anything. It comes with the cable and board that will be required to drive higher resolution displays and the concept behind the Athena is to have a fairly generic platform that can be upgraded over time.
Oh 'K' ur 'screwed' with the bigger the build volume the less quality output with same screen resolution. 'Bolt' of inspiration compare 'bolt and nut' benchies (benchmark) a simple visual of smallest working bolt and nut that resin printer can produce. This would be a direct comparison. So a postage stamp sized resin build area/screen would be very small jewelry sized bolt ( or smaller) and a drydock sized build area/screen would be a massive oil tanker size bolt. Scaling would be logarithmic or exponential. Sticker on side of printer with its bolt benchy quick visual comparison.
Way too damn long form... Summed up, it's just two points really. 1. When they say 8k... 12k... etc... it's using semi arbitrary measurements on one axis one the screen so it's not really representative of that actual total resolution you'd expect. But importantly it's still a rough estimate for density along the horizontal axis so... a roughly at a glance useful metric I'd say. Second, you don't care about total pixels on a printer, as much as the pixel density per square inch of the screen. Since a 12K might have more pixels, but on a 16 inch print base it's still fewer per inch than an 8K will have on a tiny 9inch screen. So if you have a tiny screen/printing area, for the same resolution you get a higher quality mini (up till your print settings/resin can support). So, if you want a tiny printer, sure, 8K is an ok metric. For larger ones to build giant things or print small armies in one batch, you might want the higher resolution, but ya, just reference the actual screen resolution by it's dimensions. So as a method to tell at a glance if a printer has decent detail, just look at how big it is, and then the screen resolution. And for titles of printers on amazon search pages, they can fit 8k or 12k where listing 11,520*9,480 probably just wont fit or stand out so nicely... So Ks are a valid and useful, it not perfectly accurate and reliable method of tell roughly what you're looking at. Once you see a printer at a glance that's roughly what you want, then you look into its details on actual screen size/resolution to get the specifics. Some even do list the pixel density per square inch for you, but again, that's not something as easy to sort by on an amazon search so, basic K marketing works and is useful for everyone, just actually understand what it is like you should for everything else you search for and buy.
So, the K’s are relevant, and the more the better - even if - it is an arbitrary measurement - the K’s are slightly inflated - the K’s don’t tell you about pixel density after ALL that, STILL, the more K’s the better.
As much as I really love the points of the video, it does feel like the first 10 minutes couldve been 1 minute addressing the title, it just felt a bit like waffling. After the 10 minute mark it gets more helpful and informative - retention will be interesting for this one!
And as long as we're giving constructive criticism if you are going to waffle on recycling the same three or four stock clips throughout it makes it even less interesting to watch.
I liked it despite having 3 printers and starting with the original Photon years ago. If manufacturers would stop using "K", this video would be just clickbait, but they aren't! But I disagree with the AVC standard. What brands need to do is to specify an actual printing resolution in terms of lines/mm at a defined z-aspect ratio. They can then even sell the resin they used to measure it. The point is, that a printer with 24 um pixels may perform much better than one with 17 um because it has better contrast ratio in the resin, which is determined by a number of optical factors.
I think the point is to make a video that he can point to and say "watch this" irregardless of whether you're up to date with the latest news or if you're brand new to this. I don't think this video was meant for people like you and me who can agree to a standard in 30 seconds.
@@lanzer22leaving aside the point that irregardless is not a word, The first 10 minutes of the video are orthogonal to the main point. Resolution is very important, but it is important in that it sets the pixel size and that is what matters. Trying to claim that resolution doesn't matter is silly. The point is that resolution and the resulting pixel size are both important. At the end of the day the pixel size determines your output quality all other factors being equal.
@@FauxHammer tus videos han sido los mas honestos que he visto y en mi caso fundamentales para la toma de desicin de la compra de mi primera impresora , siga haciendo contenido honesto, de verdad se aprecia mucho.
See, I knew there was something missing in regards to a "quality" measurement when I was last considering getting a resin printer (I still haven't bought one), and here it is, put right in front of me what I didn't realize was missing. This is great! Only complaint I have against your video is how it feels like one of those dumb scammy video websites where it talks about some irrelevant crap, jumping between related topics, while promising for over an hour that they're about to explain what it is the person started watching for, and in the very end it just tries to sell you a book or a course on the topic instead of actually explaining it. Kind of an extreme description, but I did have that feeling about 5 minutes in, looked at how long the video was, and bumped it up to 2x speed to finish it faster. This video really could have been taken down to 10 minutes if you kinda just got to the point, and I think people would enjoy watching your videos more if other videos of yours are similar to this one (algorithm recommended this video to me, so I haven't watched others yet).
Yup fully agree on the use of the AVC metric for any type of resin printer. The fun part will be when comparing a DLP printer with an AVC of 51micron against a 22micron AVC LCD resin printer where the difference is pretty much negligible but the technology is different.
Yeah, agreed, but that's the bit where I did the car analogy with Horsepower/KG,. It's only ever going to be a raw number, you still need reviewers to dissect it before making a decision. - but its's a better more comparable baseline between printer sizes than K.
Totally agree with what you're saying here, and the last 5 minutes of this video discussing community feedback was really great. The "boring tech talk" is really why I clicked on a video discussing the relevance of a fairly esoteric measurement. Wholly believe, however, that it doesnt take over 20 minutes to get this information across - BUT I understand you need watch time for the algo (hence this comment). I felt that you spent a lot of time repeating yourself, which nearly lost me a few times. I look forward to this being the spearhead of a movement to redfine how we measure the specs of these machines (at least until we get true SLA printers in the home market with infinite XY accuracy - or at least 405nm² x 20um voxels haha), and I hope enthusiasts can prevail in the face of less than scrupulous overseas manufacturers. Thanks for your time and for really considering all fronts of this. I'm in the market for a new printer - so I think its high time I sent requests out for this data...!
*[VØCs]* Great Video M8, truly;-) 19:19 Speaking of *_Irrelevance':_** when will we get a (equally or more important) Video on how those *"Awesome Little USB Charcoal Filters"* you plug in the back of your 3D Printer; *_Don't Do Anything To Clear Up & Remove the extremely harmful VOCs_* * which are spewed out of your 3DP into the air when printing in a room without a full Intake In/Out Air System** (?) (* USB Filter only *_Mask_*_ Odours,_ they don't *_Remove_*_ them_ ) (** The only real system which removes the majority of VOCs in an unventilated room ) (*** VOCs which, after prolonged & or repeated exposure, even w/ a respirator, can cause a *_Myriad_*_ of _*_Health Problems_* )
Your videos helped me to decide for an 12k printer - because I now know what "the sweet spot" for it is (19x24x20 in my case). Of course, I could bought a smaller one with the same AVC, but I print for tabletop mainly, so i decided for a larger print size. So thank you for your help to understand the AVC and the impact of the quality of my prints.
Thankyou so so much for everything! I was so afraid to start this journey but your videos got me through it all! I'm so proud to say I'll be the owner of a Saturn 4 ultra soon!!!!
Just to be pedantic here (and give you some tasty "engagement"), your engine size example does have one flaw. Maximum possible power output of a combustion engine is in direct relation to the engine volume. Assuming that the engine builders were both seeking max power output, the larger engine will be more powerful. It would have probably been a better comparison to say that comparing two cars performance purely on their horsepower is irrelevant because that truck with 800hp and 1200 ftlbs of torque is also 3-4 times heavier than the 250hp / 185 ftlbs hatchback
Was thinking the same. Best would have been to compare same capacity engines, but one in a sportscar and one in a van. Which will go faster (print quality) vs which can move all your furniture to your new place the fastest (print size).
I hear you! Yet, what I noticed is the following my LCD and my DLP have the exact same AVC of 50µm, the quality of the DLP is way better. I mean, you can dry brush a mini printed on the DLP without seeing ANY lines. We probably need to have something for DLP as well. In the 2d world this would refer to pixel-images and vector images, I guess. What do you think?
I haven't used a DLP, but I suspect it has to do with DLP being a consistent light source across the entire print area while individual LEDs in the LCD screen can be brighter or darker than the median. LCDs lose more power to the glass than a DLP as well, which could be a problem in itself as well as degrading the variations within the LCD further.
I'm only a couple weeks into this hobby, but it's been quite the learning experience thus far. I really enjoy your content and appreciate all the passion you put into it. My entry machine was a Photon 4k, but I find this topic really helpful as I'm already pondering what I want my next printer to be.
Ive been looking at getting into resin and am glad to hear this; the seeming resolution creep had been a reason I’d held off I’d thought 12k didn’t look much better than 8k but hadn’t looked into it yet, but am glad to know to look out specifically for the pixel size - makes the comparison a lot easier
FOR THE ALGORITHM! I have a DLP printer. It has a 51 µm voxel size. That's the only number I've ever used, personally. If you get *good* atomization,, you can airbrush (or rattle can) primer down around 8-30 µm (when it's dry). Think about it, folks. Even when dry, a coat of primer is roughly half a voxel at my printer's 51 µm voxel size. If you aren't so lucky, the blobs of primer coming from the spray can will be many times bigger than the 51 µm voxels by my printer produces. With the highest-resolution printers available, the _best priming job possible_ is going to add an inconsistent and (relatively) sloppy layer on top of the sharp layer the printer creates. If you're _painting_ your minis, we're fast approaching the point where there's no point in resolution improvements. That's not to say there can't be improvements - the Apple Vision Pro, for example, has LCD's with pixels in the 8 µm range. I imagine it'll be a while before they can be produced at the size of a Sonic 8Ks mini or Mars printer. I agree with @FauxHammer: Use voxel size in µm, but I'd demand the eccentricity from being a perfect square.
Thank you so much for this video. In hindsight it makes total sense - This is something that in the past used to be discussed about smartphone screens, when most companies were still trying to figure out what the best ratio was and weird panel resolutions were coming out all the time :) This really helped me in making a better informed decision, as I've been eyeing resin printers, and I was focusing too much on the screen resolution. Cheers friend!
@@FauxHammer I did! I’ve been following up on your past videos too, and btw kudos on your Poland trip. The community there is absurdly good and fun. Good people too! They deserve all the attention. Hope to see you showing more stuff like that, the people deserve it!
I'm all for this, and it will be up to reviewers to start using this as the way to compare printers in reviews. Viewers should start asking what the AVC/XY Resolution is, both to manufacturers and reviewers. Build Volume (XYZ), XY Resolution (µm), and light source technology are what really matter to me, along with the quality of life features (heated vat, auto-refill, build quality, quietness, networking, etc). You'll notice some manufacturers (AnyCubic) don't put the XY Resolution on their large volume printers because the XY Resolution isn't sexy enough for marketing and betrays the entire K rating system. Huge difference between 8K 13.6" and 8K 9.1" screen.
This meeting should have been an email. Almost offensively winding the viewer along. I won't be checking out any more FauxHammer videos that show up in my algorithm, gross.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. So between the different K tiers, the main difference is actually the different screen sizes for definition within each K tier. I've had a FDM printer and just now have purchased a resin printer for improved resolution of my designs for molding. Picked up an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M5s 12K for $293 to my door.
So as a more direct comparison. Look at pixel size on the screen rather than resolution of the screen. A 13” 8k screen is significantly worse than a 6” 8k screen. But even at those smaller pixel sizes. Light source is important too
Fantastic video! I've been trying to explain this to clients for YEARS now I'm just going to send them a link to this video.. When you print across multiple printers this becomes quite obvious but that's why I use different printers for different models but the M3 MAX prints are almost identical to the Jupiter as long as you dial in the resin!
Got to say this was my first vid by you I watched and like the rest already pointed out once you got past the waffle waffle stage, and got to the point is when I got really interested as I been putting off getting a printer till I get my new home and move. Thank goodness I put it off as I'd been in line with the K equals better right? crowd.. Now better informed I'll do more digging on printers and keep my eye on the used car salesmanship (upselling a potentially huge pile of garbage as a diamond) of printer makers. So thanks for that going to watch some of your other vids now and subbed😁😁🙃😁😁
I just clicked the video as I am just starting resin. I have a FDM, and won a resin printer. I don't think mine has a "K" sticker on it. Everything you stated is however very very true as the "K" metrics don't apply when as a user I can set the layer height. I went ahead and subbed as I can see the learning potential of your channel. Thank you.
Hey @FauxHammer, nice video. One thing that I still find worth to mention; the AVC of the DLP printers in the axial direction is not equal to the step height you set at the printer but is determined by the dose and the material absorption constant. I guess for a lot of resins that are not pitch black this value is >20µm. And that would be the AVC in my opinion. So it is even more complicated as it is material dependent.
That's more true with LCD than DLP. but I'm not trying to enforce brands to determine the actual printed voxel. I just want to help define clear marketing terms in contrast to the BS currently spouted. I'm still working on helping people understand Exposure vs base exposure, if i ocvercomplicate videos with how pixels are formed. i'll loose my audience in a snooze fest quite rapidly
Hi, Its me again, the guy who thought differently about a board game I never played. Loved your response, i giggled. I am enjoying your frankness and sarcasm in your videos. I am learn heaps and getting a lot of useful info from your videos. Soon I will check out some painting ones too.
I fdm print now. Really enjoy the builds. I have been looking at resin and think this video answered questions I had about the machines. Thank you 👍 from me.
Love it. I've been with you about the silliness of the K designation from the beginning. As for the AVC, you need a few of the other TH-camrs to start using it. That should help a ton.
Brilliant, so you understand now it's not about K it;s about the pixel size! You are the reason I made this, and it;s made my day that i can help you. But honestly, right now, some of the best detail printers are the 12k ones. like the Saturn 3.
I have a 4K printer (the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K) and I'm curious just how much of a difference in visible quality there is between the 8K and 12K machines of similar size.
Here's something to think about: My Mars 4 DLP is a "2K" printer. It has a Voxel size of 51 or 52 µm (depending on who you ask... I figure there's probably a decimal point being rounded, and I don't really care). Your Frozen Sonic Mighty 4K *also* has a 52 µm Voxel size. You have *double* the K, but are going to have _literally the same print quality_. So, with that eyeball calibration out of the way: I've spent a *lot* of time staring at prints under magnification, with various AA settings, from many slicers. If you're young, and have good eyesight (or glasses), and the prints are unpainted, and have a resin that shows off contrast well: you can see differences if you pick it up and examine them closely. If you're older (eyesight starts to go *fast* above 40), or if the prints are painted, or if the resin doesn't show contrast well (transparent or white resin, for example), or the prints are more than 30 cm away - then it's unlikely you'll be able to see anything. Keep in mind: An _expertly applied_ spray coat of primer alone is going to be 20 µm thick. Expertly applied paints are likely going to add another 100 µm of additional thickness. That's a _lot_ of, well, "self-leveling filler." to smooth out any voxel blockiness.
stupid: it's just so you read and realize that sometimes it's not so you read it but so you realize it's true. Printers are not made for your world of stupidity. They were created with the purpose of being able to physically extract things that are virtual and not only that but they can be converted to metal in a foundry, for example jewelry, where precision is the detail and microns are worth gold, it is not your case, you are only playing to test printers and act important, the microns of a printer are worth at casting levels since it leaves a smooth surface where it takes little time to finish it perfectly, above The 30 microns are already problematic, that is, stop giving opinions from a chair complaining about the lack of pleasure in your useless life and leave the microns to those who really care, those who work and have access to economical and super precise printers ( this for the useless video creator)
You got my attention even with my ADHD. Thank you, for the information. I completely understand voxels without an explanation since I use them in my 3d work. I fully supported the AVC standard for 3d resin printers.
Thank you SO MUCH! Voxels all the way. Thank you so much for putting this video out there. You have said it so much better than I could have ever had. 👌🏼
I understand the premise of the video and the information presented. I think you’ll get more views getting straight to the point. I will say I saw the short you were talking about but never watched it because the thumbnail was of Opie from sons of anarchy and I just couldn’t get into that show. I think a term more relevant to laymen would help the industry. I think it should be ranged in dpi, it would be instantly recognized and understandable. Period. LxW dpi is close enough for me.
Very, very didactic video. In these times of fast video and ultra-consumption, sincerity is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much and I'm sorry for my English
Completely agree and thanks for explaining that. Always wondered why the bigger printers had a reduced print quality. I have seen comparisons of 4K 8k and 12k for printed models and really doesn’t seem to a big difference particularly since the layer heights are the same and that is a big measure for me as to how visible these are.
Great video and I totally agree they need to standardize the way they advertise the printers. Makes shopping for a new one hard for everyone when you have to use a spreadsheet to compare printers.
I am grateful for your videos. The explanations, definitions, and experience are tremendously beneficial. They have helped me avoid the marketing traps, and I sincerely appreciate it. Keep up the great work!
I really liked the video and the explanation you give. Although I did get it before. To be honest, I don't care at all. There are so many factors that come in to play. The only real standard is the output it delivers. So ideally there is an independed organization that get the printers from all brands and they would print the same model with the same resin with the optimal settings and then you get a score on the level of detail and maybe the distance from which the layer lines become invisible. And of course on usability speed and all the other important details. Basically the job you guys are doing now but than more organized and for all printers. Only than we have a honest comparison and good idea of what is achievable with the printers out there. Till then I'll just keep following your channel 😉
Thanks for hammering this info for people. If you think about voxels as 3d cubes (which they are), your example of 22x22x20 vs 43x43x40, the latter is worse than twice as large - it's 8 times as large. The voxels are twice as wide, twice as deep, and twice as tall.
Thanks a lot for this video. Yes it was a bit boring and at first I had a hard time understanding what you were trying to explain because I felt like you weren't reaching the point. Than it all made sense. Again thanks a lot it helped me so much.
@@FauxHammer can I ask a question about a suggestion on my next printer? I hope I'm not bothering, but I'll go on: So the thing is I have an elegoo Mars 2, worst purchase I've ever made since I'm a very beginner. This Mars 2 has a lot of problem plus I would like something bigger like the Saturn 4 ultra. I've watched both your videos on Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 ultra and I can't decide myself if buying one of those two and which one of those or searching for something else. My top priority are ofc the final model quality, a filter would be awesome so I could keep it in my room instead of the garage and save money on the heater, or vice versa get a greater but no filter and put it in the garage, and also but not very important the fact that since I'm a very beginner it would be better if it isn't too complicated to use. This is it I hope that I wrote in an understandable way since English isn't my first language. Wish you a good day :3
Thank you for your video. I am new to the hobby and am currently looking for my first printer. I really thought the K meant something. Thanks for opening my eyes!
I already had a 4K resin printer and decided to buy a 12K but before it came I saw your video about resolutions and ended up sending it back and got a Bambu Labs X1 carbon which I feel was probably a much better choice. Thanks for the info
You could have gotten to the point sooner, but it’d say you have been very clear. The metric they should use is pixel size or pixel density, not an absolute number with no reference. It’s a pretty straightforward concept, I think
Thank you for the work you put into this. I wholeheartedly support the push for AVC. As an engineer I already know the grief marketing dept. can cause when it comes to accuracy and relevancy of their claims in marketing. Leaving a comment for the algorithm. Edit: Please release Wargamer resin in Norway, I want to test it out
Engaging with the algorithm ! You can make a good comparison with pc monitors, resolution vs screen size, a 1080p would look sharp on a 23 inch, but as you scale up the screen, pixel density decrease and will look soft. Same with TV, 1080p vs 4K UHD all depends of your TV size and viewing distance. At least with voxel size it's easy to compare the actual "size" of details.
While I appreciate the honesty up front of how this video is click bait and meant to drive views I don't appreciate the wasted time spent watching this video. Do the mini related content and printer reviews and follow-ups. I think your viewers understand screen resolution by now. I'll continue my sub.. but you really made me think about dropping it.
The point of this is so that I never have to do it again. You know I've said this same thing dosens of time. as much as I need to do in future is point people to this video. This is me putting it to bed.
This was really great and useful as someone who is constantly looking for ways to quantify and potentially describe technical and artistic qualities. I would say while I support your push for better standardization terms (lets all rejoice USB stuff is finally looking at getting their shit together), I think it would be beneficial to have a follow up video or two down the line to break down the description of AVC again. This follow up needs to get to the point a bit faster than this video; I only watched all the way through since I’ve seen a few from the channel and trust you already. For the uninitiated, the’ll need something in depth but more to the point before their eyes glaze over
I understood this before seeing this video. But you touched on a point I never thought of. On a large printer Is there even atcualy any point printing a .02 layer height when the it's only giving you 43um X 43um. Should we just be printing .04 layer height and speed up the print now that is has much less layers. I atcualy just noticed the standard profile for the M3 max is .05mm layer height
I did three months of research before I ever bought my resin printer for around $300 bucks, and I don't remember if it was your video or somebody else's that inspired me to look for the average foxhole size but when I did purchase mine I made sure that it was a 24 maximum and the printer itself is the creality hallett mega
I actually found it interesting. I was thinking I should have got a bigger printer- but as it turns out the smaller ones are actually more detailed?? Keep the videos coming 🙌🙌
I think this makes sense for LCD mSLA. However, we need a metric that shows why DLP gets better prints at lower resolution. And that has to do with the coherence of the light itself. I think you can combine all of these things into the volume of the frustum (like a pyramid with the top chopped off) between where the pixel is masked and the projection that actually makes it to the previous layer. Since people like to buy larger numbers, we just flip it (ie 1/v). This gives a number in 1/um3 they can market. I’m sure there’s a way for them to rig it, because I just thought of it now
I love this video. Even I watched it to late. But now, I learned much more about 3D Resin Priting. :) Thank you, FauxHammer. :) Please dont give up on our stupidity. :D I wish to learn more.
This involves the inverse square law. In other words if you keep the pixel count the same, but double the size of the screen, it now takes up 4 times the area. Twice as wide and twice as long = 4 times the area. So this makes perfect sense.
Thank you for your video. I did not know that the xyz resolution of a printer is called AVC. And it is true that the k number is irrelevant. And you can find the xy resolution in the technical details for every printer, too. I can only imagine why the printer companies do this. because everybody can imagine what the K number mean but 20 um xy resolution is like a book with seven seals for people starting out with 3d printing
I’ve been saying this for quite a while, I realize that an 8K on a small printer was half the size of an 8K on double size printer. It’s very much like what I go through when I explain Photoshop and screen resolution to clients that say that you need 300 dpi you also have to tell me how many inches or millimeters the sizes
Next step: how much of the resolution survives the non parallel(or slightly diffused) light rays bleeding into each other? At least for x & y axis. That might be another differentiator. Lightsource, masking element and optical path from there into the resin would have influence.
Very informative Video - I've looked many of your Videos before I made my decision to buy a new Resin printer. Finally I went for a Saturn 3 - Not because of the "12k" - but the combinition of building area und the aprox. 24 micron pixelsize. Unfortunately the comparison with the commonly know "k" as a indicator of resolution the manufactures use leads us - the users - often in a "wrong" (I only mean in the expectation of the quality we will get) way - but in fact it is a way of Advertisement like in many other products. The more important is to get the neutral information - and therefore your videos are a big help respectively source to get a better overview. Thanks from germany
I have been working on and with computers for over forty years and i understand where you are coming from with the misinformation point and agree with the point you are making. i think voxel size should be what the industry should standardize to imply print quality.
This reminds me of the confusion with 2D printers over image PPI vs printer DPI, vs pixel size and pixel resolution, and compared to camera resolution. Complicating this is that a 1440dpi printer is not capable of printing a 1440ppi image, because an inkjet printer can only print in ink droplets. Most of fixed droplet size, some can print a small range of droplet sizes. But in the end, the visibly smooth image is made of a pattern of approximately 240ppi printed as a stochastic (semirandom) fixed droplet sizes of between 4 and 8 ink colors.
Phrozen Sonic mini 8ks - 22 microns Mighty 8k - 43 microns Pretty straight forward. I only know these facts thanks to your channel & a couple others like Vogman. So cheers
thanks, and you know what, that;s kinda my point. you only know it becasue of me and Vogman, because K is seen everywheremm but AVC or largest pixel size is what matters. i;m glad you know, but so many people don't
Dear FauxHammer, think it would help if you could publish the AVC for all the known printers. A simple spreadsheet should do. Apologies if you already have that, then I simply was too thick to find it.
I totally agree and was going to suggest this - if the sheet (or webpage) were commonly adopted then it would help both people and companies understand whats needed of them.
lol I accept your click bait. I have brand new elegoo Saturn 3 ultra and curing station sitting on my office floor fresh off the UPS truck today. Super excited to crack it open… and I get my first x1carbon next week. I went pretty big this month 🤣🤣
I would say that marketing information is more likely to be intentionally misleading. Perhaps not at first, when manufactures needed an easy way for the consumers to understand the first resin printers, maybe using the screen resolution made any sense. After that, when the consumer was more familiarized with the printers and new sizes and resolutions came up, the focus seems to change in a way to create confusion rather than a base line for comparison, specially If you have an inferior product or if you want it to look more effective than your competition. That's why I don't belive the industry will change the way it refers to Screen resolution as a main quality feature. Is not that they are being completely dishonest, but is a way to make the printers look better than they really are. Hope in the future we can change this, but somehow they will find a way to distort these numbers making they look better than they are. Thanks again for the great content!
The impression this gives off is that resolution doesn’t matter. It does with regards to screen size. Brands should just make the micron count more obvious. Also I’d rather see more printers with vat heaters and residue detection than perfectly square voxels.
Agree, many people don't understand that if you have a 4inch 8k display and a 10inch 8k display the pixels on the 10inch display will be way larger, Same for these printers, bigger squares means less details.
Firstly that makes sense. Secondly that is how i thought it should always have worked. My question since i am kind of new is there a mathmatical formula for figuring out the AVC? Thank you excellent video.
AVC is the largest side of a single printable voxel. To work out z, it;s the minimum step distance, for X&Y it's Screen axis in mm devided by number of pixels on same axis
@@FauxHammer Seems like current resin 3D printers are quickly approaching that level of detail, at least the small ones are. In a couple years I imagine resolution will become pretty standardized across the board so we can get over having to deal with +2K per iteration every 6 months lol.
@@FauxHammer thanks for this number there, a lot of us are trying to get the clearest smoothes print out of clear resin and knowing where we can stop worrying about surface "frosting" or texture would warp the light on smooth planes it good to keep in mind. 💙
Got this a good while ago, annoyingly Manufacturers tend to quote AVC when the printer is new, then drop it real quickly when it's no longer the best, making it hard to find out the true values later on. For me I have several printers, approx 6, 9 and 13 inch screen size but all have the same-ish resolution 46 to 50 micron, giving me a consistancy between each print, would I like finer resolution - Hell Yes, am I going to get it in the near future probably not, at least not until they give up the ghost. I enjoyed both the 8K and 12K video's, just waiting for the 24K installment 😉
So, TDLR; Much like how fast a car can be is not determined by power but by power/weight, printer sharpness is not determined by pixel count but by pixel count / how small those pixels are. Is that a half decent understanding?
@@joergsonnenberger6836 well no - as the point of the video says DPI is just X/Y resolution - Layer Hight / Z axis needs to be included hence the move to tward actual voxal
Thanks, because Voxel is the output rendered on the mode. the pixel is the output of a printer component. I'm also considering a future where LCD's have sub 10 Micron pixels, but the z-axis is stuck in increments of 10 Microns.
It’s true a voxel isn’t a pixel, but rather the slightly larger result of the projection. But people might start to understand the bigger picture better. (Pixel size vrs “K” metric is still a major improvement.) I also understand that the way the light is manipulated changes voxel size, but I’m talking marketing not technical specs. I honestly hadn’t thought about z axis not keeping up! Regardless, good on you to raise community awareness!
Just commenting for the sake. I think this video has way too much waffle for beginners. Beginners need it to the point. I was 10 minutes in and still trying to find the evidence for your point. Whilst you’re correct in your point, just put it for the laymen. My 2p :)
You are absolutely on the money here. While this topic is confusing to many, it seems folks don't realize the physical size of a pixel in 2d (voxel in 3d cubed output) is smaller on a smaller sized screen compared to a larger size screen of exactly the same Resolution. Folks either understand the difference or they don't. Those that don't will just continue to be mislead unfortunately. A really good example is to play a 480p video on a smart phone full screen and play the same video on a 20 plus inch computer monitor full screen 1080p (2k). The results are night and day, but then maybe they will see the significance of pixel size compared. On the smartphone it will look good, while on the computer screen not so much.
Exactly that, and you are right, people either get it or they don't, already had so much hate on this video - as expected I guess. Serves me right for trying to be helpful and educate people steadily.
@@FauxHammer in their defense, this topic is complex. People are to used to 2d resolutions etc. I only been on resin printing 3 months now and also got caught in the marketing hype 2 Mars 4 ultras and a Saturn 3 Ultra later, but your previous videos explaining this in use for 3d resin printing made sense and brought me in sync with reality and how it all correlates together. In this case, ignorance is not bliss and can be costly. Don't be to hard on yourself or the audience. Edit.. I'm willing to bet that if it were possible to put a modern smartphone under the vat, we would get some really nice results for smaller prints.
@@colinmclean1300 thanks man, I knew this would be a divisive topic, but IO gotta be honest, this one has been a bit brutal and I'm not as thick skinned as I thought - These are words I needed to hear right now. Thank you. I've found today that I'll respond to people in kind., I guess you know me, if brands are being dicks I'll call them on it, same with commenters. People have made the same point about this video both rudely and politely and each has gotten a response in kind.
@@FauxHammer its common knowledge on TH-cam that the tubers love putting up titles for click bait, but in your defense you admitted that up front. So imo there is no foul. Your videos are very informative. This was no exception
Solid information and rant. The video took way to long to get rhe points across and the tone of voice used was off. Dont worry ill keep watching your video.
This video is a bit more long-form than usual, If you are a regular viewer, maybe skip to about 00:07:00 - (though I hope you will watch it all anyway to help boost the video and allow it to reach and help more people) But many of you have seen me make this same point over and over in all of my printer review videos. And I've promised for a while that I'd stop repeating myself and make this separate video for the beginners. And now, in future videos I don't need to talk about 2k, 4k, 8k, 9k, 12k, 14k etc being misleading marketing terms anymore YAY! - I can just refer people here, which allows me to spend more time in reviews focusing on a printers features and the results it delivers.
TLDW, please stop comparing printers by their K metric, that measures the screen resolution, not the print quality - we nee something new, please can we call use AVC instead.
Way too damn long... way to slow actually explaining the key point, and you spread it out so far most people will have forgotten your starting arguments for part A by the time you finish actually covering part B. Video could have been more informative, and not even five minutes long. I'd recommend you do less... ranting... on future videos meant to inform people. For information, and not just random entertainment, the length works against people and their attention spans or ability to focus. And ya, when it takes several minutes to realize yes you're just trying to mention the same obvious thing I figured this video might be about within two seconds of reading the title... talk about wasted time. If you want to spread this out to get more views and new people to the channel... not the right way to do it I'd say... Hit the touchy titles and clickbait ok... but focus on the point without wasting everyones time.
@@terricon4 I hear you, and my comment above is my attempt at damage control for earlier comments saying the same. I:ve even had some independent friends watch it now who have echoed what you have said so the message is heard loud and clear.
What I do find odd is that when I check the stats on this video. It has higher engagement and a longer watch time than any other video I've put out in the last 6 months, which is crazy. It has more subscribers per view too.
So whilst I do hear you, and take the feedback onboard, I will cut the waffle in future videos. The video itself is really resonating with a good group of people. and i believe it's likely the beginners who the video was aimed at who want this kind of buy info, as many other comments have suggested.
I did go into this with an intentional slow burn intro, bit to drag it out, but so that people new to all this had time to digest the info I'm putting forward. I get that the first several minutes are the same point 3 different ways. That was intentional. I realised it was dragging and then instead of just moving on, apologised to my existing viewers for it happening. No idea if that helped or made it worse.
It's all good feedback that will lead to better videos in future.
I always use the analogy of grains of sand on a beach. Because any display device is about pixel density as you point out. Not pixels in general. It’s why buying a TV for 4k for instance only starts making sense at a certain size/viewing distance. You have to get close enough for it to matter/you to see the individual grains of sand. Just a helpful analogy for laymen
All of the new printers are going to be 12k. The people over at Concepts3D told us last week that they 8k LCD panels that they and everyone else have been using have been discontinued. They are working to purchase enough of the remaining stock to cover warranties, etc. I opted for the 12k Athena more as a future proofing than anything. It comes with the cable and board that will be required to drive higher resolution displays and the concept behind the Athena is to have a fairly generic platform that can be upgraded over time.
Oh 'K' ur 'screwed' with the bigger the build volume the less quality output with same screen resolution. 'Bolt' of inspiration compare 'bolt and nut' benchies (benchmark) a simple visual of smallest working bolt and nut that resin printer can produce. This would be a direct comparison. So a postage stamp sized resin build area/screen would be very small jewelry sized bolt ( or smaller) and a drydock sized build area/screen would be a massive oil tanker size bolt. Scaling would be logarithmic or exponential. Sticker on side of printer with its bolt benchy quick visual comparison.
Way too damn long form... Summed up, it's just two points really. 1. When they say 8k... 12k... etc... it's using semi arbitrary measurements on one axis one the screen so it's not really representative of that actual total resolution you'd expect. But importantly it's still a rough estimate for density along the horizontal axis so... a roughly at a glance useful metric I'd say.
Second, you don't care about total pixels on a printer, as much as the pixel density per square inch of the screen. Since a 12K might have more pixels, but on a 16 inch print base it's still fewer per inch than an 8K will have on a tiny 9inch screen. So if you have a tiny screen/printing area, for the same resolution you get a higher quality mini (up till your print settings/resin can support).
So, if you want a tiny printer, sure, 8K is an ok metric. For larger ones to build giant things or print small armies in one batch, you might want the higher resolution, but ya, just reference the actual screen resolution by it's dimensions.
So as a method to tell at a glance if a printer has decent detail, just look at how big it is, and then the screen resolution. And for titles of printers on amazon search pages, they can fit 8k or 12k where listing 11,520*9,480 probably just wont fit or stand out so nicely... So Ks are a valid and useful, it not perfectly accurate and reliable method of tell roughly what you're looking at. Once you see a printer at a glance that's roughly what you want, then you look into its details on actual screen size/resolution to get the specifics. Some even do list the pixel density per square inch for you, but again, that's not something as easy to sort by on an amazon search so, basic K marketing works and is useful for everyone, just actually understand what it is like you should for everything else you search for and buy.
So, the K’s are relevant, and the more the better - even if
- it is an arbitrary measurement
- the K’s are slightly inflated
- the K’s don’t tell you about pixel density
after ALL that, STILL, the more K’s the better.
As much as I really love the points of the video, it does feel like the first 10 minutes couldve been 1 minute addressing the title, it just felt a bit like waffling. After the 10 minute mark it gets more helpful and informative - retention will be interesting for this one!
Fair enough, I hear you
And as long as we're giving constructive criticism if you are going to waffle on recycling the same three or four stock clips throughout it makes it even less interesting to watch.
This video is 1000% runtime padding.
@@johnnyjoseph1389yep, thanks, heard you the first time
Yeah I just went to the comments after he made no points by the time it was 3min in. First time watching the channel and won't be back.
Sorry man, but this was too much click bate for little information. It took the video 6 minutes too even begin talking about the point being made.
Ok
I liked it despite having 3 printers and starting with the original Photon years ago. If manufacturers would stop using "K", this video would be just clickbait, but they aren't!
But I disagree with the AVC standard. What brands need to do is to specify an actual printing resolution in terms of lines/mm at a defined z-aspect ratio. They can then even sell the resin they used to measure it.
The point is, that a printer with 24 um pixels may perform much better than one with 17 um because it has better contrast ratio in the resin, which is determined by a number of optical factors.
I think the point is to make a video that he can point to and say "watch this" irregardless of whether you're up to date with the latest news or if you're brand new to this. I don't think this video was meant for people like you and me who can agree to a standard in 30 seconds.
@@lanzer22leaving aside the point that irregardless is not a word, The first 10 minutes of the video are orthogonal to the main point. Resolution is very important, but it is important in that it sets the pixel size and that is what matters. Trying to claim that resolution doesn't matter is silly. The point is that resolution and the resulting pixel size are both important. At the end of the day the pixel size determines your output quality all other factors being equal.
@@FauxHammer tus videos han sido los mas honestos que he visto y en mi caso fundamentales para la toma de desicin de la compra de mi primera impresora , siga haciendo contenido honesto, de verdad se aprecia mucho.
See, I knew there was something missing in regards to a "quality" measurement when I was last considering getting a resin printer (I still haven't bought one), and here it is, put right in front of me what I didn't realize was missing. This is great!
Only complaint I have against your video is how it feels like one of those dumb scammy video websites where it talks about some irrelevant crap, jumping between related topics, while promising for over an hour that they're about to explain what it is the person started watching for, and in the very end it just tries to sell you a book or a course on the topic instead of actually explaining it. Kind of an extreme description, but I did have that feeling about 5 minutes in, looked at how long the video was, and bumped it up to 2x speed to finish it faster. This video really could have been taken down to 10 minutes if you kinda just got to the point, and I think people would enjoy watching your videos more if other videos of yours are similar to this one (algorithm recommended this video to me, so I haven't watched others yet).
Fair enough, taken on board
Man, I am so glad this is one of the first video I've been recommended as I started looking a 3D printers.
This saved me so much time lol.
basically you want the lowest µm value for x and y for the build volume you want
largest value of xy or z
@@FauxHammer so you want the higher the micron?
Yup fully agree on the use of the AVC metric for any type of resin printer. The fun part will be when comparing a DLP printer with an AVC of 51micron against a 22micron AVC LCD resin printer where the difference is pretty much negligible but the technology is different.
Yeah, agreed, but that's the bit where I did the car analogy with Horsepower/KG,. It's only ever going to be a raw number, you still need reviewers to dissect it before making a decision. - but its's a better more comparable baseline between printer sizes than K.
Totally agree with what you're saying here, and the last 5 minutes of this video discussing community feedback was really great. The "boring tech talk" is really why I clicked on a video discussing the relevance of a fairly esoteric measurement.
Wholly believe, however, that it doesnt take over 20 minutes to get this information across - BUT I understand you need watch time for the algo (hence this comment). I felt that you spent a lot of time repeating yourself, which nearly lost me a few times.
I look forward to this being the spearhead of a movement to redfine how we measure the specs of these machines (at least until we get true SLA printers in the home market with infinite XY accuracy - or at least 405nm² x 20um voxels haha), and I hope enthusiasts can prevail in the face of less than scrupulous overseas manufacturers.
Thanks for your time and for really considering all fronts of this. I'm in the market for a new printer - so I think its high time I sent requests out for this data...!
*[VØCs]* Great Video M8, truly;-) 19:19 Speaking of *_Irrelevance':_** when will we get a (equally or more important) Video on how those *"Awesome Little USB Charcoal Filters"* you plug in the back of your 3D Printer; *_Don't Do Anything To Clear Up & Remove the extremely harmful VOCs_* * which are spewed out of your 3DP into the air when printing in a room without a full Intake In/Out Air System** (?)
(* USB Filter only *_Mask_*_ Odours,_ they don't *_Remove_*_ them_ )
(** The only real system which removes the majority of VOCs in an unventilated room )
(*** VOCs which, after prolonged & or repeated exposure, even w/ a respirator, can cause a *_Myriad_*_ of _*_Health Problems_* )
Excellent video. I have been trying to explain this to people for YEARS. Well done and now I have a place to send people to.
Your videos helped me to decide for an 12k printer - because I now know what "the sweet spot" for it is (19x24x20 in my case). Of course, I could bought a smaller one with the same AVC, but I print for tabletop mainly, so i decided for a larger print size. So thank you for your help to understand the AVC and the impact of the quality of my prints.
Thankyou so so much for everything! I was so afraid to start this journey but your videos got me through it all! I'm so proud to say I'll be the owner of a Saturn 4 ultra soon!!!!
Just to be pedantic here (and give you some tasty "engagement"), your engine size example does have one flaw. Maximum possible power output of a combustion engine is in direct relation to the engine volume. Assuming that the engine builders were both seeking max power output, the larger engine will be more powerful.
It would have probably been a better comparison to say that comparing two cars performance purely on their horsepower is irrelevant because that truck with 800hp and 1200 ftlbs of torque is also 3-4 times heavier than the 250hp / 185 ftlbs hatchback
Was thinking the same. Best would have been to compare same capacity engines, but one in a sportscar and one in a van. Which will go faster (print quality) vs which can move all your furniture to your new place the fastest (print size).
I hear you! Yet, what I noticed is the following my LCD and my DLP have the exact same AVC of 50µm, the quality of the DLP is way better. I mean, you can dry brush a mini printed on the DLP without seeing ANY lines. We probably need to have something for DLP as well. In the 2d world this would refer to pixel-images and vector images, I guess. What do you think?
I haven't used a DLP, but I suspect it has to do with DLP being a consistent light source across the entire print area while individual LEDs in the LCD screen can be brighter or darker than the median. LCDs lose more power to the glass than a DLP as well, which could be a problem in itself as well as degrading the variations within the LCD further.
I'm only a couple weeks into this hobby, but it's been quite the learning experience thus far.
I really enjoy your content and appreciate all the passion you put into it.
My entry machine was a Photon 4k, but I find this topic really helpful as I'm already pondering what I want my next printer to be.
Ive been looking at getting into resin and am glad to hear this; the seeming resolution creep had been a reason I’d held off
I’d thought 12k didn’t look much better than 8k but hadn’t looked into it yet, but am glad to know to look out specifically for the pixel size - makes the comparison a lot easier
FOR THE ALGORITHM! I have a DLP printer. It has a 51 µm voxel size. That's the only number I've ever used, personally.
If you get *good* atomization,, you can airbrush (or rattle can) primer down around 8-30 µm (when it's dry). Think about it, folks. Even when dry, a coat of primer is roughly half a voxel at my printer's 51 µm voxel size. If you aren't so lucky, the blobs of primer coming from the spray can will be many times bigger than the 51 µm voxels by my printer produces.
With the highest-resolution printers available, the _best priming job possible_ is going to add an inconsistent and (relatively) sloppy layer on top of the sharp layer the printer creates. If you're _painting_ your minis, we're fast approaching the point where there's no point in resolution improvements.
That's not to say there can't be improvements - the Apple Vision Pro, for example, has LCD's with pixels in the 8 µm range. I imagine it'll be a while before they can be produced at the size of a Sonic 8Ks mini or Mars printer.
I agree with @FauxHammer: Use voxel size in µm, but I'd demand the eccentricity from being a perfect square.
That minimal z step is really needed and hard to find characteristic. Also would be nice to know what are software constraints on z travel speed.
Yep, I’ve been begging brands for this info in literally every review. And they never tell me.
I'm always amazed in how much work you put into your videos. Excellent presentation.
Thank you so much for this video. In hindsight it makes total sense - This is something that in the past used to be discussed about smartphone screens, when most companies were still trying to figure out what the best ratio was and weird panel resolutions were coming out all the time :)
This really helped me in making a better informed decision, as I've been eyeing resin printers, and I was focusing too much on the screen resolution.
Cheers friend!
Oh, you did watch it! Thank you
@@FauxHammer I did! I’ve been following up on your past videos too, and btw kudos on your Poland trip. The community there is absurdly good and fun. Good people too! They deserve all the attention. Hope to see you showing more stuff like that, the people deserve it!
I'm all for this, and it will be up to reviewers to start using this as the way to compare printers in reviews. Viewers should start asking what the AVC/XY Resolution is, both to manufacturers and reviewers.
Build Volume (XYZ), XY Resolution (µm), and light source technology are what really matter to me, along with the quality of life features (heated vat, auto-refill, build quality, quietness, networking, etc).
You'll notice some manufacturers (AnyCubic) don't put the XY Resolution on their large volume printers because the XY Resolution isn't sexy enough for marketing and betrays the entire K rating system. Huge difference between 8K 13.6" and 8K 9.1" screen.
This meeting should have been an email. Almost offensively winding the viewer along. I won't be checking out any more FauxHammer videos that show up in my algorithm, gross.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. So between the different K tiers, the main difference is actually the different screen sizes for definition within each K tier. I've had a FDM printer and just now have purchased a resin printer for improved resolution of my designs for molding. Picked up an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M5s 12K for $293 to my door.
So as a more direct comparison. Look at pixel size on the screen rather than resolution of the screen.
A 13” 8k screen is significantly worse than a 6” 8k screen.
But even at those smaller pixel sizes. Light source is important too
Thank you for the time and effort you have dedicated to this. I appreciate the information provided, especially as I am new to this process.
Beautifully explained. Very useful for me as a newcomer to the 3D printing industry. And love the proposal of using AVC
Fantastic video! I've been trying to explain this to clients for YEARS now I'm just going to send them a link to this video..
When you print across multiple printers this becomes quite obvious but that's why I use different printers for different models but the M3 MAX prints are almost identical to the Jupiter as long as you dial in the resin!
Thank you for the round up at the end. I am shopping for a new printer since my move, and this sealed the deal.
Currently researching my next 3D printer, as i want to print larger resin models, this was really useful.
This opened my eyes.. big time.. I am glad I stumbled upon this before I bought my first resin printer.
Thanks. Glad it was helpful to you
Got to say this was my first vid by you I watched and like the rest already pointed out once you got past the waffle waffle stage, and got to the point is when I got really interested as I been putting off getting a printer till I get my new home and move. Thank goodness I put it off as I'd been in line with the K equals better right? crowd.. Now better informed I'll do more digging on printers and keep my eye on the used car salesmanship (upselling a potentially huge pile of garbage as a diamond) of printer makers. So thanks for that going to watch some of your other vids now and subbed😁😁🙃😁😁
I was always skeptical about how the number of k of a screen was related to the pixel density. Thanks for the thorough clarity on this.
I've been debating getting into the hobby, and well, that answered quite a few questions. Even some I didn't know I'd have. Thanks!
I just clicked the video as I am just starting resin. I have a FDM, and won a resin printer. I don't think mine has a "K" sticker on it. Everything you stated is however very very true as the "K" metrics don't apply when as a user I can set the layer height. I went ahead and subbed as I can see the learning potential of your channel. Thank you.
Hey @FauxHammer,
nice video. One thing that I still find worth to mention; the AVC of the DLP printers in the axial direction is not equal to the step height you set at the printer but is determined by the dose and the material absorption constant. I guess for a lot of resins that are not pitch black this value is >20µm. And that would be the AVC in my opinion. So it is even more complicated as it is material dependent.
That's more true with LCD than DLP. but I'm not trying to enforce brands to determine the actual printed voxel. I just want to help define clear marketing terms in contrast to the BS currently spouted.
I'm still working on helping people understand Exposure vs base exposure, if i ocvercomplicate videos with how pixels are formed. i'll loose my audience in a snooze fest quite rapidly
Hi, Its me again, the guy who thought differently about a board game I never played. Loved your response, i giggled. I am enjoying your frankness and sarcasm in your videos. I am learn heaps and getting a lot of useful info from your videos. Soon I will check out some painting ones too.
Glad you enjoyed it! I really appreciate you understand sarcasm! it will help a lot on my channel
This is a great thing for the community, thanks!
Glad you think so!
I fdm print now. Really enjoy the builds. I have been looking at resin and think this video answered questions I had about the machines. Thank you 👍 from me.
Love it. I've been with you about the silliness of the K designation from the beginning. As for the AVC, you need a few of the other TH-camrs to start using it. That should help a ton.
Thanks, I’ll try to get more people onboard
I was looking for a 12K but now i know what to look for, thanks!
Brilliant, so you understand now it's not about K it;s about the pixel size! You are the reason I made this, and it;s made my day that i can help you.
But honestly, right now, some of the best detail printers are the 12k ones. like the Saturn 3.
I have a 4K printer (the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K) and I'm curious just how much of a difference in visible quality there is between the 8K and 12K machines of similar size.
Here's something to think about: My Mars 4 DLP is a "2K" printer. It has a Voxel size of 51 or 52 µm (depending on who you ask... I figure there's probably a decimal point being rounded, and I don't really care). Your Frozen Sonic Mighty 4K *also* has a 52 µm Voxel size. You have *double* the K, but are going to have _literally the same print quality_.
So, with that eyeball calibration out of the way: I've spent a *lot* of time staring at prints under magnification, with various AA settings, from many slicers.
If you're young, and have good eyesight (or glasses), and the prints are unpainted, and have a resin that shows off contrast well: you can see differences if you pick it up and examine them closely.
If you're older (eyesight starts to go *fast* above 40), or if the prints are painted, or if the resin doesn't show contrast well (transparent or white resin, for example), or the prints are more than 30 cm away - then it's unlikely you'll be able to see anything.
Keep in mind: An _expertly applied_ spray coat of primer alone is going to be 20 µm thick. Expertly applied paints are likely going to add another 100 µm of additional thickness. That's a _lot_ of, well, "self-leveling filler." to smooth out any voxel blockiness.
The print size is generally larger with similar voxel dimensions.
stupid: it's just so you read and realize that sometimes it's not so you read it but so you realize it's true.
Printers are not made for your world of stupidity. They were created with the purpose of being able to physically extract things that are virtual and not only that but they can be converted to metal in a foundry, for example jewelry, where precision is the detail and microns are worth gold, it is not your case, you are only playing to test printers and act important, the microns of a printer are worth at casting levels since it leaves a smooth surface where it takes little time to finish it perfectly, above The 30 microns are already problematic, that is, stop giving opinions from a chair complaining about the lack of pleasure in your useless life and leave the microns to those who really care, those who work and have access to economical and super precise printers ( this for the useless video creator)
You got my attention even with my ADHD. Thank you, for the information.
I completely understand voxels without an explanation since I use them in my 3d work. I fully supported the AVC standard for 3d resin printers.
Incredibly helpful information! Anyone looking to buy a resin printer should watch this video before making a decision. Thank you Fauxhammer!
Thanks so much
Thank you SO MUCH! Voxels all the way. Thank you so much for putting this video out there. You have said it so much better than I could have ever had. 👌🏼
I understand the premise of the video and the information presented. I think you’ll get more views getting straight to the point. I will say I saw the short you were talking about but never watched it because the thumbnail was of Opie from sons of anarchy and I just couldn’t get into that show.
I think a term more relevant to laymen would help the industry. I think it should be ranged in dpi, it would be instantly recognized and understandable. Period. LxW dpi is close enough for me.
Please give Sons another chance, It's Shakespere on Motorbikes
Very, very didactic video. In these times of fast video and ultra-consumption, sincerity is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much and I'm sorry for my English
Thanks, English was spot on, no need to apologise
Completely agree and thanks for explaining that. Always wondered why the bigger printers had a reduced print quality. I have seen comparisons of 4K 8k and 12k for printed models and really doesn’t seem to a big difference particularly since the layer heights are the same and that is a big measure for me as to how visible these are.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and I totally agree they need to standardize the way they advertise the printers. Makes shopping for a new one hard for everyone when you have to use a spreadsheet to compare printers.
I am grateful for your videos. The explanations, definitions, and experience are tremendously beneficial. They have helped me avoid the marketing traps, and I sincerely appreciate it. Keep up the great work!
I really liked the video and the explanation you give. Although I did get it before. To be honest, I don't care at all. There are so many factors that come in to play. The only real standard is the output it delivers. So ideally there is an independed organization that get the printers from all brands and they would print the same model with the same resin with the optimal settings and then you get a score on the level of detail and maybe the distance from which the layer lines become invisible. And of course on usability speed and all the other important details. Basically the job you guys are doing now but than more organized and for all printers. Only than we have a honest comparison and good idea of what is achievable with the printers out there. Till then I'll just keep following your channel 😉
Thanks for hammering this info for people. If you think about voxels as 3d cubes (which they are), your example of 22x22x20 vs 43x43x40, the latter is worse than twice as large - it's 8 times as large. The voxels are twice as wide, twice as deep, and twice as tall.
fair point...
Thanks a lot for this video. Yes it was a bit boring and at first I had a hard time understanding what you were trying to explain because I felt like you weren't reaching the point.
Than it all made sense.
Again thanks a lot it helped me so much.
Thanks mate, yeah the intro is a catch all, but I’m glad you stuck with it.
@@FauxHammer can I ask a question about a suggestion on my next printer?
I hope I'm not bothering, but I'll go on: So the thing is I have an elegoo Mars 2, worst purchase I've ever made since I'm a very beginner. This Mars 2 has a lot of problem plus I would like something bigger like the Saturn 4 ultra. I've watched both your videos on Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 ultra and I can't decide myself if buying one of those two and which one of those or searching for something else.
My top priority are ofc the final model quality, a filter would be awesome so I could keep it in my room instead of the garage and save money on the heater, or vice versa get a greater but no filter and put it in the garage, and also but not very important the fact that since I'm a very beginner it would be better if it isn't too complicated to use.
This is it I hope that I wrote in an understandable way since English isn't my first language. Wish you a good day :3
Really interesting and insightful. Been printing about fours years and learned something new. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Very good points. I'm looking to get into hobby printing and love the fact that I'm now better informed thanks to you ;)
Thank you for your video. I am new to the hobby and am currently looking for my first printer. I really thought the K meant something. Thanks for opening my eyes!
I already had a 4K resin printer and decided to buy a 12K but before it came I saw your video about resolutions and ended up sending it back and got a Bambu Labs X1 carbon which I feel was probably a much better choice. Thanks for the info
lol, that’s a jump.
You could have gotten to the point sooner, but it’d say you have been very clear. The metric they should use is pixel size or pixel density, not an absolute number with no reference. It’s a pretty straightforward concept, I think
Thank you for the work you put into this. I wholeheartedly support the push for AVC. As an engineer I already know the grief marketing dept. can cause when it comes to accuracy and relevancy of their claims in marketing. Leaving a comment for the algorithm.
Edit: Please release Wargamer resin in Norway, I want to test it out
Thanks, and we are working on EU next. Just about to do US.
That's why I have a 14K printer. 😛
14k is also irrelevant. ;)
@@FauxHammer Yeah but bigger numbers!! I do want to know what magic causes the rectangular pixels not to stretch/distort prints.
@@tmilker lol
Engaging with the algorithm ! You can make a good comparison with pc monitors, resolution vs screen size, a 1080p would look sharp on a 23 inch, but as you scale up the screen, pixel density decrease and will look soft. Same with TV, 1080p vs 4K UHD all depends of your TV size and viewing distance. At least with voxel size it's easy to compare the actual "size" of details.
While I appreciate the honesty up front of how this video is click bait and meant to drive views I don't appreciate the wasted time spent watching this video. Do the mini related content and printer reviews and follow-ups. I think your viewers understand screen resolution by now. I'll continue my sub.. but you really made me think about dropping it.
The point of this is so that I never have to do it again. You know I've said this same thing dosens of time. as much as I need to do in future is point people to this video. This is me putting it to bed.
This was really great and useful as someone who is constantly looking for ways to quantify and potentially describe technical and artistic qualities. I would say while I support your push for better standardization terms (lets all rejoice USB stuff is finally looking at getting their shit together), I think it would be beneficial to have a follow up video or two down the line to break down the description of AVC again. This follow up needs to get to the point a bit faster than this video; I only watched all the way through since I’ve seen a few from the channel and trust you already. For the uninitiated, the’ll need something in depth but more to the point before their eyes glaze over
great feedback and taken on board thanks to your kind approach to putting it
I understood this before seeing this video. But you touched on a point I never thought of. On a large printer Is there even atcualy any point printing a .02 layer height when the it's only giving you 43um X 43um.
Should we just be printing .04 layer height and speed up the print now that is has much less layers.
I atcualy just noticed the standard profile for the M3 max is .05mm layer height
I did three months of research before I ever bought my resin printer for around $300 bucks, and I don't remember if it was your video or somebody else's that inspired me to look for the average foxhole size but when I did purchase mine I made sure that it was a 24 maximum and the printer itself is the creality hallett mega
Glad you understood this. But if you night that printer, it wasn’t from my review ;)
I actually found it interesting.
I was thinking I should have got a bigger printer- but as it turns out the smaller ones are actually more detailed??
Keep the videos coming 🙌🙌
Thanks, I guess you are who this video is aimed at
That's a great explanation. Does a printer's wavelength make a difference?
They need to market around pixel density
Great video. Thanks for always sharing your opinion! Just ordered my first bottle of Wargammer resin. Excited to try it out!
Hope you enjoy it!
Looking forward to it being available in the states.
@dionysuscsw9405 you can order it for the states now. That's where I'm at
I think this makes sense for LCD mSLA. However, we need a metric that shows why DLP gets better prints at lower resolution. And that has to do with the coherence of the light itself.
I think you can combine all of these things into the volume of the frustum (like a pyramid with the top chopped off) between where the pixel is masked and the projection that actually makes it to the previous layer.
Since people like to buy larger numbers, we just flip it (ie 1/v). This gives a number in 1/um3 they can market.
I’m sure there’s a way for them to rig it, because I just thought of it now
I love this video. Even I watched it to late. But now, I learned much more about 3D Resin Priting. :) Thank you, FauxHammer. :) Please dont give up on our stupidity. :D I wish to learn more.
This involves the inverse square law. In other words if you keep the pixel count the same, but double the size of the screen, it now takes up 4 times the area. Twice as wide and twice as long = 4 times the area. So this makes perfect sense.
Thank you for your video. I did not know that the xyz resolution of a printer is called AVC. And it is true that the k number is irrelevant. And you can find the xy resolution in the technical details for every printer, too. I can only imagine why the printer companies do this. because everybody can imagine what the K number mean but 20 um xy resolution is like a book with seven seals for people starting out with 3d printing
I’ve been saying this for quite a while, I realize that an 8K on a small printer was half the size of an 8K on double size printer. It’s very much like what I go through when I explain Photoshop and screen resolution to clients that say that you need 300 dpi you also have to tell me how many inches or millimeters the sizes
Got a new subscriber because of the explanation. Good work.
Next step: how much of the resolution survives the non parallel(or slightly diffused) light rays bleeding into each other? At least for x & y axis. That might be another differentiator. Lightsource, masking element and optical path from there into the resin would have influence.
Very informative Video - I've looked many of your Videos before I made my decision to buy a new Resin printer. Finally I went for a Saturn 3 - Not because of the "12k" - but the combinition of building area und the aprox. 24 micron pixelsize.
Unfortunately the comparison with the commonly know "k" as a indicator of resolution the manufactures use leads us - the users - often in a "wrong" (I only mean in the expectation of the quality we will get) way - but in fact it is a way of Advertisement like in many other products. The more important is to get the neutral information - and therefore your videos are a big help respectively source to get a better overview.
Thanks from germany
Danke
I have been working on and with computers for over forty years and i understand where you are coming from with the misinformation point and agree with the point you are making. i think voxel size should be what the industry should standardize to imply print quality.
This reminds me of the confusion with 2D printers over image PPI vs printer DPI, vs pixel size and pixel resolution, and compared to camera resolution. Complicating this is that a 1440dpi printer is not capable of printing a 1440ppi image, because an inkjet printer can only print in ink droplets. Most of fixed droplet size, some can print a small range of droplet sizes. But in the end, the visibly smooth image is made of a pattern of approximately 240ppi printed as a stochastic (semirandom) fixed droplet sizes of between 4 and 8 ink colors.
Phrozen Sonic mini 8ks - 22 microns
Mighty 8k - 43 microns
Pretty straight forward. I only know these facts thanks to your channel & a couple others like Vogman.
So cheers
thanks, and you know what, that;s kinda my point. you only know it becasue of me and Vogman, because K is seen everywheremm but AVC or largest pixel size is what matters.
i;m glad you know, but so many people don't
Dear FauxHammer, think it would help if you could publish the AVC for all the known printers. A simple spreadsheet should do.
Apologies if you already have that, then I simply was too thick to find it.
Not a bad idea, I’ve said it in all videos, just never called it AvC before
I totally agree and was going to suggest this - if the sheet (or webpage) were commonly adopted then it would help both people and companies understand whats needed of them.
lol I accept your click bait. I have brand new elegoo Saturn 3 ultra and curing station sitting on my office floor fresh off the UPS truck today. Super excited to crack it open… and I get my first x1carbon next week. I went pretty big this month 🤣🤣
Wow, Flex!!!! I'm so excited for you!
I would say that marketing information is more likely to be intentionally misleading. Perhaps not at first, when manufactures needed an easy way for the consumers to understand the first resin printers, maybe using the screen resolution made any sense. After that, when the consumer was more familiarized with the printers and new sizes and resolutions came up, the focus seems to change in a way to create confusion rather than a base line for comparison, specially If you have an inferior product or if you want it to look more effective than your competition. That's why I don't belive the industry will change the way it refers to Screen resolution as a main quality feature. Is not that they are being completely dishonest, but is a way to make the printers look better than they really are. Hope in the future we can change this, but somehow they will find a way to distort these numbers making they look better than they are.
Thanks again for the great content!
Thank you. This may save me a few hundred dollars between the Mars and Saturn printers now that I know to look at the XY resolution and not just the K
I waited so long time for this video. Thank You so much for explaining whats going on (=
Hope you enjoyed it!
You can do an example with papers, as "screens", 1 4k screen + 1 4k screen = 8k, and even play with scaling
Its simple, dont look at the screen resolution but look at the microns, pixel size, to get a sense of the print quality.
I am in the market for my first
This was a HUGE help and I thank you
I think...
The impression this gives off is that resolution doesn’t matter. It does with regards to screen size. Brands should just make the micron count more obvious. Also I’d rather see more printers with vat heaters and residue detection than perfectly square voxels.
Yeah, that was the point
Agree, many people don't understand that if you have a 4inch 8k display and a 10inch 8k display the pixels on the 10inch display will be way larger, Same for these printers, bigger squares means less details.
yep. too many people don't know this still, even now.
Firstly that makes sense. Secondly that is how i thought it should always have worked. My question since i am kind of new is there a mathmatical formula for figuring out the AVC? Thank you excellent video.
AVC is the largest side of a single printable voxel.
To work out z, it;s the minimum step distance, for X&Y it's Screen axis in mm devided by number of pixels on same axis
@@FauxHammer Thank you.......as i am new i tried to follow your example. I have a mars 4 and was trying to figure out the AVC.
In your opinion, what is the AVC beyond which diminishing return makes further refinement irrelevant?
I think i did the math on this recently, I think around 18um is where you can get 2x magnificattion without seeing a difference in horizontal pixles
@@FauxHammer Seems like current resin 3D printers are quickly approaching that level of detail, at least the small ones are. In a couple years I imagine resolution will become pretty standardized across the board so we can get over having to deal with +2K per iteration every 6 months lol.
@@FauxHammer thanks for this number there, a lot of us are trying to get the clearest smoothes print out of clear resin and knowing where we can stop worrying about surface "frosting" or texture would warp the light on smooth planes it good to keep in mind. 💙
Got this a good while ago, annoyingly Manufacturers tend to quote AVC when the printer is new, then drop it real quickly when it's no longer the best, making it hard to find out the true values later on. For me I have several printers, approx 6, 9 and 13 inch screen size but all have the same-ish resolution 46 to 50 micron, giving me a consistancy between each print, would I like finer resolution - Hell Yes, am I going to get it in the near future probably not, at least not until they give up the ghost.
I enjoyed both the 8K and 12K video's, just waiting for the 24K installment 😉
Lost my attention after 5+ minutes of justifying the title. Still leaving a comment for the algorithm, just something to consider.
I mean, you're not wrong, but i have a feeling you already knew and understood what the point of it was.
point taken, comment appreciated
Honestly still don''t, I was on work break when I clicked in @@demijebus6831
Same, if this happens in another vid I’m unsubbing.
@@nobirdsnomasters lol
This is the best and only PRO-CONSUMER video I have ever watched... Thanks 🙌
Wow, that’s incredible feedback, thanks
I bought the Mars 4. It’s my first 3D printer. I bought it because it has the lowest microns I could find. I didn’t realize how small it really is.😅
So, TDLR; Much like how fast a car can be is not determined by power but by power/weight, printer sharpness is not determined by pixel count but by pixel count / how small those pixels are.
Is that a half decent understanding?
Jupp, compare DPI, not physical resolution.
@@joergsonnenberger6836 well no - as the point of the video says DPI is just X/Y resolution - Layer Hight / Z axis needs to be included hence the move to tward actual voxal
Why aren’t we just saying pixel size? That’s basically what a voxel is. Great video btw
Thanks, because Voxel is the output rendered on the mode. the pixel is the output of a printer component. I'm also considering a future where LCD's have sub 10 Micron pixels, but the z-axis is stuck in increments of 10 Microns.
It’s true a voxel isn’t a pixel, but rather the slightly larger result of the projection. But people might start to understand the bigger picture better. (Pixel size vrs “K” metric is still a major improvement.) I also understand that the way the light is manipulated changes voxel size, but I’m talking marketing not technical specs. I honestly hadn’t thought about z axis not keeping up!
Regardless, good on you to raise community awareness!
@@jasoncompton5280 thanks mate, I am doing what i can.
Just commenting for the sake. I think this video has way too much waffle for beginners. Beginners need it to the point. I was 10 minutes in and still trying to find the evidence for your point. Whilst you’re correct in your point, just put it for the laymen. My 2p :)
Yep, good feedback, I’ve heard it loud and clear
You are absolutely on the money here. While this topic is confusing to many, it seems folks don't realize the physical size of a pixel in 2d (voxel in 3d cubed output) is smaller on a smaller sized screen compared to a larger size screen of exactly the same Resolution. Folks either understand the difference or they don't. Those that don't will just continue to be mislead unfortunately. A really good example is to play a 480p video on a smart phone full screen and play the same video on a 20 plus inch computer monitor full screen 1080p (2k). The results are night and day, but then maybe they will see the significance of pixel size compared. On the smartphone it will look good, while on the computer screen not so much.
Exactly that, and you are right, people either get it or they don't, already had so much hate on this video - as expected I guess. Serves me right for trying to be helpful and educate people steadily.
@@FauxHammer in their defense, this topic is complex. People are to used to 2d resolutions etc. I only been on resin printing 3 months now and also got caught in the marketing hype 2 Mars 4 ultras and a Saturn 3 Ultra later, but your previous videos explaining this in use for 3d resin printing made sense and brought me in sync with reality and how it all correlates together. In this case, ignorance is not bliss and can be costly. Don't be to hard on yourself or the audience.
Edit.. I'm willing to bet that if it were possible to put a modern smartphone under the vat, we would get some really nice results for smaller prints.
@@colinmclean1300 thanks man, I knew this would be a divisive topic, but IO gotta be honest, this one has been a bit brutal and I'm not as thick skinned as I thought - These are words I needed to hear right now. Thank you.
I've found today that I'll respond to people in kind., I guess you know me, if brands are being dicks I'll call them on it, same with commenters. People have made the same point about this video both rudely and politely and each has gotten a response in kind.
@@FauxHammer its common knowledge on TH-cam that the tubers love putting up titles for click bait, but in your defense you admitted that up front. So imo there is no foul. Your videos are very informative. This was no exception
Solid information and rant. The video took way to long to get rhe points across and the tone of voice used was off.
Dont worry ill keep watching your video.
Ok, I can accept that feedback and take it onboard