Any video or instructions for when it is still tacky? Mine was poured less than 24 hours and it has divots. I prefer not to have matte finish. I just noticed a few comments similar to mine, in the past 6 months, with no response :/
This is so helpful, thanks! How much time do you need to allow that "patch" that filled the void and left a high spot, before you sand down the high spot?
I did a whole bar top, unfortunately someone not mentioning my husband's name seen a speck he tried to get out and made a complete disaster of about 5 inches around. I have sanded it with the 220 and ordered several different grit up to 6 0r 7 thousand to finish it. What I was wondering is if it were possible to fix this spot yet keep the high gloss? It looks to me that sanding it would almost make that impossible. Do i need to settle for the matt finish?
That happened to me, I even tried to re heat it with a heat gun to smooth it out, but it COMPLETELY DESTROYED IT!!. I was lucky though, the area that got ruined happened to be where there was a solid colour. I sanded back the area (about 10cm or less diameter). We had used the Art Coat Epoxy for our 1st colour coat, so I used it again to patch colour coat the area, and it was good as new! I have all around wall to ceiling windows and you still can't even see where I had to fix it! HOWEVER, this was on the LEDGE of the bench not actually on the counter top. So do at your own risk. Good luck.
Do you do this matte finish after the ultimate top coat? Also can you tell me what you use to adhere backsplash to the wall? Mitch said silicone but I wasn't sure which kind. Thank you!!
Hi. I love your videos. I am watching this one and I was wondering for the alcohol do you use 91% and do you mix it or is it straight alcohol in the bottle.
Just curious. Why didn't you just grind out the bug using a dremel with a carbide tip, pour in your epoxy and then sand the area, which is very small, relatively, and once it is level then hit the area with an orbital going towards your satin sheen? I do polyester piano finish repairs and that's how we do it.
I just did my countertops on Saturday. Certain areas were still sticky after three days and I was told I would have to sand the whole countertop and re-pour! So I thought I would just take some extra epoxy mixture from my other countertops and cover the sticky parts trying to make it as smooth as possible so that it would all be level but that did not work. It is now smooth and dry but you can feel it’s a little bit higher than the rest of the countertop. What is your suggestion on fixing the problem?
Ok, you're talking about your perfect scenario. But what happens when the fly, bug, bugger, or there blemishes that need gone and you cant wait 30days? What to do when the project, countertops, or whatever need done ASAP.. Can you sand with 220 when it's dry after 24hrs, clean and pour over? Please respond.
Thank you for this...I just did my countertops and did something stupid...I switched the caps on the epoxy bottles not realizing it and then could not open them. I used a dremmel to cut them off and tried to be careful not to get slithers of the plastic in my product. It looked great but when I woke up you could see little tiny flecks of the plastic and feel them. I want to do the matte finish anyway...but how long do I wait before I start sanding...I did my clear coat 4 days ago. It sounded like you said you let them cure for 30 days to do the matte finish, but a few days after it hardens you fix the imperfections? Thank you for all you do to help us! You are amazing! Carla
I did that once with the caps. Not fun!!! If you’re going to sand to get a matte finish I would wait a minimum of 10 days. Have you tried the Ultimate Top Coat for your matte finish? It’s amazing and the durability is incredible!!! You can roll it on the day after the flood coat and it’s ready to use in 2 days. You don’t have to wait the 30 days for it to cure. I have several videos on how to apply the Top Coat. Sure saves time and money compared to sanding and polishing. 😊
Great job as always Rhonda. Very informative and beautiful countertop. I was wondering if you use that pad and/or finish spray after you apply the Stone Coat Topcoat? Was wondering if I could us it for any imperfections in the Topcoat.
Thank you. I actually made this before we started using the UTC. Unfortunately this doesn’t work if you have an imperfection in the UTC. In that case, you’d need to sand the entire piece and reapply. 😊
What about cat prints?? As he tries to get of I had chunks of hair. I used my torch but I still have very high points so now what how much sanding can I do with out loosing colours?
Did this happen on your color or flood coat? If flood coat, you have an 1/8th on an in. of material to sand. You should be fine. You’ll just sand and repour the flood coat. If the color coat, I would sand lightly then repour. The new flood coat should cover any high points.
I wish I had seen this sooner. I had 2 flies in a live edge table top. I took the whole surface down and I need to redo my whole flood coat. (Slap forehead) Thanks for the great demo and tips!!
Valuable information, thank you. Boy that seems like a lot of extra work to get the mat finish, if your working on a fixed countertop how would you get in a corner with the sander?
Thank you so much. Most of the time I matte the surface before we install. Once you get rolling, you’ll be so surprised how quickly you can matte finish a countertop 😊😊
Can you please do a video on addressing your edges? How are you pouring, and sanding edges to make them smooth without going through the clear coat and into color coat? I seem to always have slight verticle ripples down the length.
Hey Dave, yes I'm actually planning on doing a video on edges. Those darn things are a pain, aren't they! LOL Thanks for your feedback and suggestion. I appreciate it!
We just poured out flood coat today waiting for it to cure but and I can see some dust bunnies. I have the aberlon sanding disks that SCC sells. If I still want the glossy finish I can just sand it with the 4000 to remove them? What other product can be used aside from the liquid smooth? And how long should I wait to sand the counters?
Depending on how deep the dust bunnies are, you can take an used 4000 grit pad and buff with their Liquid Smooth or a product called F11 (Amazon). I wouldn't use a new 4000 pad because it will matte the finish just a bit. I would wait at least 10 days before buffing.
It greatly depends on the what epoxy you’re using. I’ve seen Stonecoat epoxy countertops that are 15 years old and they look fantastic!!!! Barely any ambering at all. I’ve also seen countertops less than a year old look terrible. I suggest bid you are worried about the ambering, you use SCC Art Coat Epoxy. High heat resistant, scratch resistance, long open time and the most UVA protection on the market. As far as slowing down the process, I would limit how much sunlight the epoxy is exposed to and don’t clean with harsh chemicals, especially bleach cleaners. Also, use the Ultimate Top Coat from SCC will increase the UV protection as well.
@@RK3Designs good morning. We used the Stonecoat epoxy, and added white tint, grey metallic, diamond dust and glitter mediums. We like the shine (I did a sample board with the ultimate topcoat on one side and left the other side shinny.) it’s only been 2 weeks. It’s an island that is 9.5 feet long, it’ll get very little sun, but will get some. I’ve done as advised by only using Windex to clean it.
I see. I would apply the Ultimate Top Coat for added UV and durability. Just clean with a mild cleaner. If it does amber over time, you can easily sand and repour if needed. 😊
So for a matte Finnish you sand with a high grit? I never saw anyone sand after pouring final coat. Also, what if you have this problems with the fly and don't want a matte finish? Do you just try not to have a high point by using a flat trowel?
If you’re not planning on doing a matte finish, you may have to pour another flood coat depending on how big of an indention you create getting the bug out. If it’s very tiny, there’s a chance you can just pour a small amount in the hole and use a heat gun to level and thin it out. Also, check out my video on how to create a matte finish.
You won’t be able to get the surface back to the original “high gloss” sheen once you sand unless you repour the flood coat. This piece was going to have a matte finish so I was able to blend the blemish in.
Hi Carla...I just finished my final pour and everything looked great, after checking it several times and several times popping bubbles out with my torch etc...finally satisfied I turned the lights out to let it do it's thing...I went back a few hours later to admire my work and there was divets in several spots...I was so disappointed and am not sure what caused it to do that. ....I will hone it in 30 days to a matt finish, but is it possible to mix more epoxy and just fill in those little divets and torching it or will that even work? I really don't want to do another pour if I can get away with it. Thanks so much !
I’m sorry you had issues. Yes you can add epoxy to these divots if you’re going to sand to a matte finish. Sanding will take care of any uneven areas you have. 😊
@@RK3Designs Thank you so much for your reply...I did fill in the divets and now am waiting to hone. I also read that I could hone in 7 days, even though it is not fully cured for 30 days...is that correct on the honing time or would I need to wait the 30 days?
I personally think 7 days is too soon, especially in this colder season where the epoxy will cure slower. I think a minimum is 10’days but the longer the better. If you sand / hone too soon, you get swirls.
@@juliabryer I usually wait as long as I can before I sand. At least 10 days and in the cooler weather, even more. If you sand too soon you get little swirls that are super difficult to get out.
Did you ever figure out what caused the divets? Same thing happened to me but I have dozens of them Looked perfect 12 hrs after my flood coat pour but 8 hrs later divets. Ugh. I want the gloss finish so I may try another flood coat after rotating my piece although it is "level".
Just poured my countertops on Sunday. Noticed some uneven spots and some areas look like the epoxy was still trying to flow but it was getting hard. So ended up with a wave look in those spots. Do you think sanding down like you did will fix this? I also have some bubbles that I missed with the torch.
Could be caused by either airflow during the curing or you used a heat source too late in the pour. Was it your color coat or flood coat? If it was the color coat, the flood coat should level it out.
@@RK3Designs it was my flood coat. I only used epoxy for the top coat. I stamped it using acrylics paints, finishing with epoxy. I think what happened is we didn't chop the surface after using the scalloped edge trowel that SCC uses. I'm also interested in doing a matte finish. Can you tell me how to do that? I'm wondering if having the matte finish would hide some of the trowel marks.
We have a few ants that got into ours. After I sand them out, and let more epoxy cure in those areas, do I need to sand the entire counter if I intend to use the Natural UTC? We want the natural look and I was hoping that I could just sand the affected area and then use natural utc on the entire countertop. What are your thoughts?
You'll have to order off of Amazon. I use the mess disk up to 500 grit, then use the Myrka pads 1000-4000 see if this link works. These are the pads I use.www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Q3Z0IS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps with artwork too. I have a divet where Resin didn’t take. I think this tip will help though I hope a second coat overall will even things out. I’m using art resin in my art. Also the little bag on my sander keeps flying off
You can take a very tiny paint brush and mix a very small amount of UTC and try and just touch it up. You also may be able to buff it with 10,000 grit sandpaper.
@RK3Designs Ok, thanks so much! As my UTC has now had a day to dry, I am seeing other lap lines and have decided to lightly sand the whole counter and do a 2nd UTC coat. Should I first fill that little insect void, (approx 1/8# cubed area, can be felt as well as seen) with UTC and then immediately do the overall 2nd coat? Or fill the void, let it dry, sand everything and do the 2nd overall coat? I'd like to avoid option 2 as it ads a full day...
@@RK3Designs ...also, I am doing a faux painted finish on another counter top and wondering if I can just skip the epoxy step and do the UTC directly over the painted finish. It seems like the durability would be just fine without the 1st epoxy step, no?
Hello, I poured my first epoxy project doing my bathroom countertop. I have one of those integrated sink and countertop. I attempted to pour epoxy over counter and let it drip into the sink. I made a mistake tapping the drain instead of letting the epoxy drip through the drain, so now I have harden epoxy puddle over the drain. How do I fix this? I cut the epoxy to exposed the drain, but now it looks tacky. If you or anyone know a quick fix without ruining the whole countertop I would appreciate very much for some advice. Thanks in advance
I watched another video bc she doesn't seem to check . The guy sanded with 220 only, poured a flood coat and it looked like a million bucks... That sanding all the way up to 5000 seems like over kill JS
i just finished counter tops and there is a single half dollar spot that did not cure. Can I dig that out, sand and fill in like you did with the fly ?
Thank you! I have a question, i just finished my island a few weeks ago and i wish i had just one more vein on my marble-looking top. (It looks fabulous btw), but "can" i take some white epoxy undercoat, and then add some epoxy and do another vein to "add"? or would you not risk that? I think i can do it, but wanted your opinion? suggestions?
@@RK3Designs when i "pour" out the flood coat? so my island is large, instead of adding one more vein on the bottom end, should i pour out the white epoxy around a little bit more and adjust it throughout?
@@RK3Designs so i have the Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat AND the Art Coat. I can't find how i use the Ultimate Top Coat (I'm ready to do that now) or do i use the Art Coat as my top coat for the shiny finish?
Hi Rhonda, I am a novice and successfully epoxied two very small countertops; on the third, after pouring my flood coat and finishing for the night, I woke up to micro bubbles all over the surface. 😩 I love the colored coat (I followed your bagged Montana granite instructions, but added a twist of silver glitter and some gold leaf flakes. Looked great, no bubbles until morning. I am planning to do a second flood coat but need advice on how to prepare the bubbled surface. Dig out the holes? Just sand???? Help!
Sorry you’re having trouble. A good scuffing with 220 grit should be all you need to pour your flood coat. You may need to torch a bit more to remove all the bubbles. 😊
Hi Rhonda :) do you use anything besides SCC Liquid Smooth as a finishing product? Trying to find the best product to seal/polish the matte epoxy. Have you ever used a ceramic coating (I have read it helps with scratches and scuffs)? I do not have a buffer polisher so I need a product that can be applied either by hand or with an orbital.
You can use F11 also. You can purchase it on Amazon. SCC just released their new matte finish topcoat that is an absolute game changer!!!! I’ve used it and I’m in love. You can apply and use your surface the next day. The scratch protection is unmatched!!
The post that Mike made about that seemed to say that it was for pros or people with extensive epoxy experience only, unless I misunderstood? If it’s not a technically difficult product I would be really interested!
I did my counters after I sand my cabinets. I’m renovating an entire floor. When I did my counters I looked like a bitch great white carrera marble. I didn’t really pay any mind to it months past and when I finally cleaned the counters I notice like a beige tint on my counters. I’m thinking that if I sand the flood coat off and reapply it will fix it the issue. Any thoughts on this ?
Hey there. I’m not sure what additives you used to create your finish. All epoxy will sort of Amber over time, but certain things can accelerate the process. Sanding the topcoat and adding Stonecoat Countertops new matte finish will definitely help to camouflage the Ambering. They’ve also come out with a new Platinum epoxy they is guaranteed not to yellow at all, even outdoors. I know it’s a little late for that however.
RK3 Designs I used the white base coat and white diamond dust and the rust oleum paint. I spoke to a woman at stone coat counter tops and she told me that they do t use the Behr primer anymore and that they came out with a new product that will guarantee no yellowing
I did a stone coat counter top about 2 years ago with a clear flood coat finish. It has gotten scratched over the last couple of years and we have picked up the ultimate gloss top coat as my wife wants the high gloss. Would this work to help prep the clear coat for the ultimate topcoat?
Any video or instructions for when it is still tacky? Mine was poured less than 24 hours and it has divots. I prefer not to have matte finish.
I just noticed a few comments similar to mine, in the past 6 months, with no response :/
That countertop is so pretty. How about recreating it? It’s so neutral, I love. It!
This is so helpful, thanks! How much time do you need to allow that "patch" that filled the void and left a high spot, before you sand down the high spot?
Great save Ronda 👍🏼 can’t wait to see any of the summit content on TH-cam wish someday to make it to one glad your speaking again 🙏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼😘
Thank you Gina!!! Would love to be able to meet you some day!!
Thanks Rhonda, that’s great info. It was just what I was looking for. Stupid dust specks drive me crazy!
Thank you!!! Dust bunnies are frustrating for sure!!
So a higher number on the sand paper for flood coat repair?
I did a whole bar top, unfortunately someone not mentioning my husband's name seen a speck he tried to get out and made a complete disaster of about 5 inches around. I have sanded it with the 220 and ordered several different grit up to 6 0r 7 thousand to finish it. What I was wondering is if it were possible to fix this spot yet keep the high gloss? It looks to me that sanding it would almost make that impossible. Do i need to settle for the matt finish?
That happened to me, I even tried to re heat it with a heat gun to smooth it out, but it COMPLETELY DESTROYED IT!!. I was lucky though, the area that got ruined happened to be where there was a solid colour. I sanded back the area (about 10cm or less diameter). We had used the Art Coat Epoxy for our 1st colour coat, so I used it again to patch colour coat the area, and it was good as new! I have all around wall to ceiling windows and you still can't even see where I had to fix it! HOWEVER, this was on the LEDGE of the bench not actually on the counter top. So do at your own risk. Good luck.
Do you do this matte finish after the ultimate top coat? Also can you tell me what you use to adhere backsplash to the wall? Mitch said silicone but I wasn't sure which kind. Thank you!!
Hi. I love your videos. I am watching this one and I was wondering for the alcohol do you use 91% and do you mix it or is it straight alcohol in the bottle.
It’s 91%. 😊
Just curious.
Why didn't you just grind out the bug using a dremel with a carbide tip, pour in your epoxy and then sand the area, which is very small, relatively, and once it is level then hit the area with an orbital going towards your satin sheen?
I do polyester piano finish repairs and that's how we do it.
I just did my countertops on Saturday. Certain areas were still sticky after three days and I was told I would have to sand the whole countertop and re-pour! So I thought I would just take some extra epoxy mixture from my other countertops and cover the sticky parts trying to make it as smooth as possible so that it would all be level but that did not work. It is now smooth and dry but you can feel it’s a little bit higher than the rest of the countertop. What is your suggestion on fixing the problem?
Very good teacher. Thank you
Thank you so much!! I appreciate you watching.
Ok, you're talking about your perfect scenario. But what happens when the fly, bug, bugger, or there blemishes that need gone and you cant wait 30days? What to do when the project, countertops, or whatever need done ASAP.. Can you sand with 220 when it's dry after 24hrs, clean and pour over? Please respond.
Excellent video! Just subscribed
Thank you!! 😊
Thank you for this...I just did my countertops and did something stupid...I switched the caps on the epoxy bottles not realizing it and then could not open them. I used a dremmel to cut them off and tried to be careful not to get slithers of the plastic in my product. It looked great but when I woke up you could see little tiny flecks of the plastic and feel them. I want to do the matte finish anyway...but how long do I wait before I start sanding...I did my clear coat 4 days ago. It sounded like you said you let them cure for 30 days to do the matte finish, but a few days after it hardens you fix the imperfections? Thank you for all you do to help us! You are amazing! Carla
I did that once with the caps. Not fun!!! If you’re going to sand to get a matte finish I would wait a minimum of 10 days. Have you tried the Ultimate Top Coat for your matte finish? It’s amazing and the durability is incredible!!! You can roll it on the day after the flood coat and it’s ready to use in 2 days. You don’t have to wait the 30 days for it to cure. I have several videos on how to apply the Top Coat. Sure saves time and money compared to sanding and polishing. 😊
Great job as always Rhonda. Very informative and beautiful countertop. I was wondering if you use that pad and/or finish spray after you apply the Stone Coat Topcoat? Was wondering if I could us it for any imperfections in the Topcoat.
Thank you. I actually made this before we started using the UTC. Unfortunately this doesn’t work if you have an imperfection in the UTC. In that case, you’d need to sand the entire piece and reapply. 😊
Do you have a 1 800 no. If you have a problem?
awesome video! thanks
You bet. Thanks for watching!!
What about cat prints?? As he tries to get of I had chunks of hair. I used my torch but I still have very high points so now what how much sanding can I do with out loosing colours?
Did this happen on your color or flood coat? If flood coat, you have an 1/8th on an in. of material to sand. You should be fine. You’ll just sand and repour the flood coat. If the color coat, I would sand lightly then repour. The new flood coat should cover any high points.
I wish I had seen this sooner. I had 2 flies in a live edge table top. I took the whole surface down and I need to redo my whole flood coat. (Slap forehead)
Thanks for the great demo and tips!!
You are so very welcome. Thank you so much for watching. 😊
Valuable information, thank you. Boy that seems like a lot of extra work to get the mat finish, if your working on a fixed countertop how would you get in a corner with the sander?
Thank you so much. Most of the time I matte the surface before we install. Once you get rolling, you’ll be so surprised how quickly you can matte finish a countertop 😊😊
Multipurpose oscillating tool
I poured resin 24 hours ago and I found a hair in it. What would you suggest is the best way for me to repair that? Thanks
Can you please do a video on addressing your edges? How are you pouring, and sanding edges to make them smooth without going through the clear coat and into color coat? I seem to always have slight verticle ripples down the length.
Hey Dave, yes I'm actually planning on doing a video on edges. Those darn things are a pain, aren't they! LOL Thanks for your feedback and suggestion. I appreciate it!
We just poured out flood coat today waiting for it to cure but and I can see some dust bunnies. I have the aberlon sanding disks that SCC sells. If I still want the glossy finish I can just sand it with the 4000 to remove them? What other product can be used aside from the liquid smooth? And how long should I wait to sand the counters?
Depending on how deep the dust bunnies are, you can take an used 4000 grit pad and buff with their Liquid Smooth or a product called F11 (Amazon). I wouldn't use a new 4000 pad because it will matte the finish just a bit. I would wait at least 10 days before buffing.
Rhonda, how long does it take before epoxy begins to yellow and do you have a remedy to slow the yellowing process?
It greatly depends on the what epoxy you’re using. I’ve seen Stonecoat epoxy countertops that are 15 years old and they look fantastic!!!! Barely any ambering at all. I’ve also seen countertops less than a year old look terrible. I suggest bid you are worried about the ambering, you use SCC Art Coat Epoxy. High heat resistant, scratch resistance, long open time and the most UVA protection on the market. As far as slowing down the process, I would limit how much sunlight the epoxy is exposed to and don’t clean with harsh chemicals, especially bleach cleaners. Also, use the Ultimate Top Coat from SCC will increase the UV protection as well.
@@RK3Designs good morning. We used the Stonecoat epoxy, and added white tint, grey metallic, diamond dust and glitter mediums. We like the shine (I did a sample board with the ultimate topcoat on one side and left the other side shinny.) it’s only been 2 weeks. It’s an island that is 9.5 feet long, it’ll get very little sun, but will get some. I’ve done as advised by only using Windex to clean it.
Did you use the Art Coat epoxy or regular epoxy?
@@RK3Designs the regular. The reason, every time we’d watch videos, this was the only epoxy that advertised.
I see. I would apply the Ultimate Top Coat for added UV and durability. Just clean with a mild cleaner. If it does amber over time, you can easily sand and repour if needed. 😊
So for a matte Finnish you sand with a high grit? I never saw anyone sand after pouring final coat. Also, what if you have this problems with the fly and don't want a matte finish? Do you just try not to have a high point by using a flat trowel?
If you’re not planning on doing a matte finish, you may have to pour another flood coat depending on how big of an indention you create getting the bug out. If it’s very tiny, there’s a chance you can just pour a small amount in the hole and use a heat gun to level and thin it out. Also, check out my video on how to create a matte finish.
I came close to fixing a gloss finish. it isn't easy. So the last coat is really important to make it nice if you are going for a shiny look.
Hi I poured my flood coat and I ended up with some ripples and dents, would I use the same technique? I would like to keep the shine
If I did another coat of epoxy over top would it take care of these issues? And how many oz per square foot for second top coat?
I would recommend sanding smooth and then repouring another flood coat using 3 oz./sq. ft.
I bought your pads but cannot get the gloss to be super shiny
suggestions?
You won’t be able to get the surface back to the original “high gloss” sheen once you sand unless you repour the flood coat. This piece was going to have a matte finish so I was able to blend the blemish in.
Hi Carla...I just finished my final pour and everything looked great, after checking it several times and several times popping bubbles out with my torch etc...finally satisfied I turned the lights out to let it do it's thing...I went back a few hours later to admire my work and there was divets in several spots...I was so disappointed and am not sure what caused it to do that. ....I will hone it in 30 days to a matt finish, but is it possible to mix more epoxy and just fill in those little divets and torching it or will that even work? I really don't want to do another pour if I can get away with it. Thanks so much !
I’m sorry you had issues. Yes you can add epoxy to these divots if you’re going to sand to a matte finish. Sanding will take care of any uneven areas you have. 😊
@@RK3Designs Thank you so much for your reply...I did fill in the divets and now am waiting to hone. I also read that I could hone in 7 days, even though it is not fully cured for 30 days...is that correct on the
honing time or would I need to wait the 30 days?
I personally think 7 days is too soon, especially in this colder season where the epoxy will cure slower. I think a minimum is 10’days but the longer the better. If you sand / hone too soon, you get swirls.
@@juliabryer I usually wait as long as I can before I sand. At least 10 days and in the cooler weather, even more. If you sand too soon you get little swirls that are super difficult to get out.
Did you ever figure out what caused the divets? Same thing happened to me but I have dozens of them Looked perfect 12 hrs after my flood coat pour but 8 hrs later divets. Ugh. I want the gloss finish so I may try another flood coat after rotating my piece although it is "level".
Just poured my countertops on Sunday. Noticed some uneven spots and some areas look like the epoxy was still trying to flow but it was getting hard. So ended up with a wave look in those spots. Do you think sanding down like you did will fix this? I also have some bubbles that I missed with the torch.
Could be caused by either airflow during the curing or you used a heat source too late in the pour. Was it your color coat or flood coat? If it was the color coat, the flood coat should level it out.
@@RK3Designs it was my flood coat. I only used epoxy for the top coat. I stamped it using acrylics paints, finishing with epoxy. I think what happened is we didn't chop the surface after using the scalloped edge trowel that SCC uses. I'm also interested in doing a matte finish. Can you tell me how to do that? I'm wondering if having the matte finish would hide some of the trowel marks.
How did your topcoat turn out?
Great information!! That must be very smooth!! 👏👏👏🤗
So very smooth!!! 😊
We have a few ants that got into ours. After I sand them out, and let more epoxy cure in those areas, do I need to sand the entire counter if I intend to use the Natural UTC? We want the natural look and I was hoping that I could just sand the affected area and then use natural utc on the entire countertop. What are your thoughts?
Rhonda, I was looking around today at Home Depot for 4000 grit paper. I saw 400 grit. Where can I find 2000, 3000, and 4000?
You'll have to order off of Amazon. I use the mess disk up to 500 grit, then use the Myrka pads 1000-4000 see if this link works. These are the pads I use.www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Q3Z0IS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps with artwork too. I have a divet where Resin didn’t take. I think this tip will help though I hope a second coat overall will even things out. I’m using art resin in my art. Also the little bag on my sander keeps flying off
I got a small insect in my final UTC coat. I picked it out, but how do I touch up that small void?
You can take a very tiny paint brush and mix a very small amount of UTC and try and just touch it up. You also may be able to buff it with 10,000 grit sandpaper.
@RK3Designs Ok, thanks so much! As my UTC has now had a day to dry, I am seeing other lap lines and have decided to lightly sand the whole counter and do a 2nd UTC coat. Should I first fill that little insect void, (approx 1/8# cubed area, can be felt as well as seen) with UTC and then immediately do the overall 2nd coat? Or fill the void, let it dry, sand everything and do the 2nd overall coat? I'd like to avoid option 2 as it ads a full day...
@@RK3Designs ...also, I am doing a faux painted finish on another counter top and wondering if I can just skip the epoxy step and do the UTC directly over the painted finish. It seems like the durability would be just fine without the 1st epoxy step, no?
Hello, I poured my first epoxy project doing my bathroom countertop. I have one of those integrated sink and countertop. I attempted to pour epoxy over counter and let it drip into the sink. I made a mistake tapping the drain instead of letting the epoxy drip through the drain, so now I have harden epoxy puddle over the drain. How do I fix this? I cut the epoxy to exposed the drain, but now it looks tacky. If you or anyone know a quick fix without ruining the whole countertop I would appreciate very much for some advice. Thanks in advance
So what can I do if I want to keep the gloss finish?
I watched another video bc she doesn't seem to check . The guy sanded with 220 only, poured a flood coat and it looked like a million bucks... That sanding all the way up to 5000 seems like over kill
JS
@@ronherkey148 ya I think way overkill too
i just finished counter tops and there is a single half dollar spot that did not cure. Can I dig that out, sand and fill in like you did with the fly ?
Yes or you can just pour another coat over it without removing the sticky material.
Thank you! I have a question, i just finished my island a few weeks ago and i wish i had just one more vein on my marble-looking top. (It looks fabulous btw), but "can" i take some white epoxy undercoat, and then add some epoxy and do another vein to "add"? or would you not risk that? I think i can do it, but wanted your opinion? suggestions?
i have not done my top coat yet.
You bet I’ve actually done that on a few pieces to give it more depth when you out the flood coat it looks really cool!
@@RK3Designs when i "pour" out the flood coat? so my island is large, instead of adding one more vein on the bottom end, should i pour out the white epoxy around a little bit more and adjust it throughout?
What I would do is add any type of accents or additions to your finish, let that dry. Then I would come back with a total flood coat.
@@RK3Designs so i have the Stone Coat Ultimate Top Coat AND the Art Coat. I can't find how i use the Ultimate Top Coat (I'm ready to do that now) or do i use the Art Coat as my top coat for the shiny finish?
Hi Rhonda, I am a novice and successfully epoxied two very small countertops; on the third, after pouring my flood coat and finishing for the night, I woke up to micro bubbles all over the surface. 😩 I love the colored coat (I followed your bagged Montana granite instructions, but added a twist of silver glitter and some gold leaf flakes. Looked great, no bubbles until morning. I am planning to do a second flood coat but need advice on how to prepare the bubbled surface. Dig out the holes? Just sand???? Help!
Sorry you’re having trouble. A good scuffing with 220 grit should be all you need to pour your flood coat. You may need to torch a bit more to remove all the bubbles. 😊
Can you tell us the recipe for that piece?
It’s Fantasy marble. Here’s a video. Enjoy! 😊
Fantasy Marble with Artisan Design Concepts: Stone Coat Countertop Finish
Hi Rhonda :) do you use anything besides SCC Liquid Smooth as a finishing product? Trying to find the best product to seal/polish the matte epoxy. Have you ever used a ceramic coating (I have read it helps with scratches and scuffs)? I do not have a buffer polisher so I need a product that can be applied either by hand or with an orbital.
You can use F11 also. You can purchase it on Amazon. SCC just released their new matte finish topcoat that is an absolute game changer!!!! I’ve used it and I’m in love. You can apply and use your surface the next day. The scratch protection is unmatched!!
The post that Mike made about that seemed to say that it was for pros or people with extensive epoxy experience only, unless I misunderstood? If it’s not a technically difficult product I would be really interested!
This is the Ultimate Topcoat right?
I did my counters after I sand my cabinets. I’m renovating an entire floor. When I did my counters I looked like a bitch great white carrera marble. I didn’t really pay any mind to it months past and when I finally cleaned the counters I notice like a beige tint on my counters. I’m thinking that if I sand the flood coat off and reapply it will fix it the issue. Any thoughts on this ?
Hey there. I’m not sure what additives you used to create your finish. All epoxy will sort of Amber over time, but certain things can accelerate the process. Sanding the topcoat and adding Stonecoat Countertops new matte finish will definitely help to camouflage the Ambering. They’ve also come out with a new Platinum epoxy they is guaranteed not to yellow at all, even outdoors. I know it’s a little late for that however.
RK3 Designs I used the white base coat and white diamond dust and the rust oleum paint. I spoke to a woman at stone coat counter tops and she told me that they do t use the Behr primer anymore and that they came out with a new product that will guarantee no yellowing
The white base tint is what caused the yellowing. I’ve been told they discontinued it and came out with a new tint as well as the platinum
I did a stone coat counter top about 2 years ago with a clear flood coat finish. It has gotten scratched over the last couple of years and we have picked up the ultimate gloss top coat as my wife wants the high gloss. Would this work to help prep the clear coat for the ultimate topcoat?
Couldn't you have blended the fly into the colour scheme ? That sanding was a long journey for a fly.
Not sure customer was excited about having a fly in her flood coat 🤪
sheesh, that's a _huge_ fly 😂
It felt that big when I walked in and saw it! LOL LOL