Fisher Paykel DX-1 Smartload Squeaking RUMBLE FIX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2024
- this repair is for squeaking and squealing drum bearings that you will hear more with heavy load but also can sound bad at any load, even empty. takes about an hour with regular hand tools, i should say you need metric allen key 5mm, and a thin wall 22 mm socket, possibly a grinding wheel, watch and see
fisher paykel drum bearing 479332 kit squeek squeel noise rumble vibration sound bad wierd repair fix part how to howto fisherpaykel
note:users are posting to replace this bearing early, when first sounds start...waiting just makes the swap harder as this bearing can and will sieze up and require drilling to remove, thanks everyone for the views and comments TH-cam Channel: / roslynny
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Nearly five years after Dino cursed his way through the repair, he saved my dryer and saved me having to buy a new one. After watching his video, I ordered the part and the special socket from Amazon. Turned out I needed a bigger socket wrench. Bought that locally. I tried to skip some of Dino's steps (my mistake) but eventually followed his instructions step by step. My only issue was that, for whatever reason, the drum bolt wasn't lined up well enough to get the 22mm socket all the way in. It took lifting the drum up and to the left with one hand while fitting the socket with the other. Once I corrected all my stupid mistakes and solved that problem, everything went back on perfectly. I might have cursed about 2x as much as Dino and called the dryer some names I'm not proud of, but it's running right now and quiet as a mouse. Thanks, Dino!
Thanks for responding-its been quiet since I turned the bearing around. This is my second F&P Dryer. They last about 3 years-You give them a call and no help. Never again!!! Thanks for the video-it truly helped
This worked just as described! 22 socket did the trick. Had to lift he drum with one hand to get it to fit. Hardest part for me was actually getting the frame to fit perfectly when closing the lid after all the "hard" stuff was done. Thanks for posting this!
finally...a plain language, step-by-step, how to. There is other great do-it-yourself vids on youtube. But not for this model. This repair is much easier with a helper. Flat head can be used to remove top cover screw covers. Thanks for what you do, Mr. Pinch.
To the point and correct! Saved me lots of time. P.S. Another shortcut for this repair is to leave the lid, wires (except ground wire) and top intact and tilt the whole top back. There is a hinge of sorts so the top can lean against a wall. Thanks a lot!
Great instructions from start to finish. I replaced the entire drum bearing kit in about an hour. I did not have to grind down my 22mm socket as I used a "superior"
snap-on thin walled socket. Thanks a bunch! I hope it lasts another 13 years-
Hi Dino, thanks for doing this video. After watching it I decided to try a different technique for the bearing swap. I did not want to take the dryer housing apart, other than taking the lid off. So after removing the bearing cover, 5 screws, retainer and finally the shaft with the ground down socket, I noticed you could just see about 1/16" of the screw sticking out through the hole. I then took a very strong magnet from my workshop and joined it to the outer end of the new shaft. the magnetic force was strong enough to pass through the shaft and attract the end of the screw. I rotated the magnet-shaft combination until the shaft engaged the first threads of the screw. After that I removed the magnet and was able to pull on the shaft with my fingers while tightening. Once I couldn't tighten it any more I put the socket wrench on it while lifting the drum. Finished tightening the shaft, replaced the retainer and 5 new screws and the cover. The whole thing took about 8 minutes, including finding the right magnet in the workshop. THIS WORKED! unbelievable! I have used this technique before on blind fasteners on my race car. NOW the problem is, that was not the problem. the dryer still rumbles so it must be a tensioning pulley bearing instead :-(. I'll have to find another one of your videos for that... Bob
Great video, Dino! Just finished fixing my dryer and works like a charm. I was able to find a thin walled socket that didn't require me to grind down the outer edge, for those interested. It was a longer 7/8" sold as a separate item for $2 at Home Depot. Thanks!
Based on your guidance I replaced the drum bearings. Thanks for all your efforts. It is really a joy to have a quiet dryer again.
Dino- What a great video. My husband and I ordered the part, and dove in. Of course Murphy's Law took over for a while as we waited much to long to fix it. It was past squealing and on to thumping like tennis shoes were in it. In the end we were able to get it fixed. Thanks...we are feeling great about it.
AWESOME VIDEO and THANK YOU very much for posting it.
Things i would like to add:
1) Much easier with two people - one person will position the tub.
2) If the bearing is "semi" seized, "unscrew" it with Channel Locks. My bearing did NOT "just pull off".
3) A 22mm Kobalt socket from Lowe's will fit the hole, but it is hard to know when you are on the shaft without someone helping with the tub. And a Kobalt socket is a tight fit...
4) When it starts squeaking, fix it.
This video is perfect!!!
Wow, just finished installing. no prob. also had to grind down my 22MM socket. Hardest part was paying $92 for what looks like $10 in parts. Without this video, I would have had to pay a markup on the part and installation, so my guess Dino saved me $150. Thankyou so much!!!
Brilliant Dino...they quoted me $600 (Aus Dollars) to repair this thing but with a $100 part and your video it appears good as new. The bearing was beyond screwed, there was literally at least 1/8 inch free play all around between the shaft and the bronze bushing.
Thanks so much for making this. I just replaced my bearing with a purchased kit, and am enjoying no longer hearing that infernal squealing I'd been putting up with. I was able to use a Kobalt 22mm deep socket from Lowe's without grinding it down, but I did have to persuade it into place with a urethane mallet. You saved me two service calls: the first to diagnose the problem, the second to fix it!
Thanks so much for this video - the instructions and tips are right on! Replaced the bearing and shaft in 30 min - but took us 45 min to find the right allen wrench! No more squeaky dryer!
You rock Dino! Just did this fix and completely shut down the squeak. Ours sounded like it was the jockey pulleys, came from the back, bottom. That didnt do the trick. This was the fix. We also have a narrow 22mm socket. Thanks for posting F & P videos!
An old video but still works like a charm. Gave me the courage to try it and save some money. Pretty easy repair. Only challenging part for me was finding a grinding wheel to grind down the socket so it would fit. Dryer is back to it's old self.
Totally Awesome Walkthru. The comment on grinding down the 22 mm socket saved me from having to come up with the idea myself (which I probably wouldn't have done).
Also showing to to get clearance room enough to hold the retaining screw for the bearing pin saved me from taking the whole case off.
Probably save me 2 hours of frustration, thanks
Great instructions, they helped me fix my squeaky dryer, it's as smooth as silk now. The trickiest bit is removing/replacing he bearing shaft, but that is made much easier with a second pair of hands lifting the drum.
Thank you SO much for posting this. I thought this might be the problem I'm having when a load of towels was squeaking like crazy, but a half load of light cotton hardly squeaked at all. Now all I need is the bearing kit.
Aspect ratio on your video is off but the instructions were right on. Got my Fisher & Paykel dryer running quietly again. Hardest part was the shaft nut. Had to run and get a 22mm and still had to grind it down but all worked out. Thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for the video, I used a 7/8 long socket and it fit perfectly.
Dino, you just saved me $180 labor charge the local shop wanted to charge me for this simple drum bearing change.
Thanks again!
Just finished repair. Your video was perfect. Big thanks. I had to buy the part, but saved money on a service call.
Thank you very much. 7/8" socket wasn't thin-walled so couldn't get deep enough to get to it, but replaced using the rest of the kit to eliminate the squeaking!
Thank you for posting this!! Fixed my dryer today. Saved me $500 and a drive to get a new one.
It took longer to grind the socket (with a dremel) than replace the bearing. Thank you for this.
As a not-so-technically-inclined person, I was able to watch you video and take on the Fisher Paykel. Probably saved $150 or more and didn't take too long. Appreciate the F-bombs in the video too- it kept it real!!
thak you so much. i recently had to fix the squeeking squeeling fisher and paykel washing maching too, it wasa super easy found a video on here and did it with a little bearing grease. this looks like an easy fix to my loud dryer. i love the fisher and paykel line of products because they are easy to work on and the top loading is so much eaiser to load. .. thanks again
Thanks, Great Video, Save me a few hundred dollars. With the help of the video it took me about 30 minutes to complete. Video was dead on, i even had to grind down my 22mm socket to get on the bearing shaft. Dryer sound great and is very quiet again.
Dino. Thanks for the vid. I diagnosed problem using forums, and found your video to replace.
Notes:
I did NOT need to grind the 22mm Craftsman deep socket from Ace hardware today. It was exactly the same diameter as the standard from the same store. So either Craftsman has further reduced their socket wall thickness, or there are minor differences in the clearances of the different models.
When replacing the ring that holds the 5 screws there are 2 holes that need to line up with rivets.
Dear Lord you are a brilliant teacher!
So, great video, step by step and it is all just as you say. My dryer's noise was deafening, and it was a little tricky to hear if it really was coming from the right. I figured I had nothing to lose by taking it apart and looking at the bearing. Sure enough, I can see a lot of linear marking inside the brass bearing and the shaft, so at least I know that's the problem. I also thought this is a very mechanical setup - no packed or sealed things so, what if I lubricate this - at least for the time being. Lithium spray lubricant, inside of bearing, on shaft, and inner side of most outer washer, reassembled.... quiet as it was new. So, however long that lasts, fine, and I'll think about repairing or waiting till everything just dies and going new. Thanks.
Thanks for the video... A 7/8" socket works fine to remove the bearing mandrel. Watch for sharp areas.
Thanks for the great video Dino! My dryer is sounding like the bearing is going out. I really enjoy watching your videos. You explain everything very well and the video is so helpful plus you're entertaining with your great narrative.
Just finished, I was able to grind down a 7/8" (instead of 22mm) and it worked. Thanks for the video Dino!!
Alan Miller das right!! she lives up to her name too...handy...very handy
thanks for watching my video, thanks for your note, little things like that keep me motivted.
check out my main channel: The Handyman Zone and hit that subscribe button would really appreciate the support :)
th-cam.com/users/roslynny
Dino, thanks for the detailed video! You gave me the confidence to order the part and do it myself, saving both time and money. I will recommend you to others.
perfect video thanks so much i had to get rid of my matching washing machine it burned up but the fp dryer just started to make the squeal and this looks easy to do.... you should start selling those sockets to folks who have fp dryers.... them down and sell them .. :-) i would certainly pay for that..
Dino-Thank you so much for your video-you save me on a repair call-replaced the bearing and its working perfect! YOU DA MAN...
Dino, Great video! Our just started this squeaking a few days ago. We have model DEGX2, but it looks identical. Ordering part tonight and hopefully repaired by late this week!
It took us two hours but success. We had to review the video but thank you so much!
Dino-Thank you so much for your video-you save me on a repair call-replaced the bearing and its working perfect! YOU DA MAN... Gino from Chicago
Thanks Gino P from Dino P !!
thanks for watching my video, thanks for your note, little things like that keep me motivted.
check out my main channel: The Handyman Zone
th-cam.com/users/roslynny
dino pinch
Thanks a million Dino! I have the the newer model with the lcd screen that has this very same issue. I'm ordering the bearing kit today and hope it gets here before the old one goes out completely lol
Thank you Dino! Your video worked great. I couldn't have done it without you!!
Great video. The directions were precise enough and correct. Keep up the good work. I was able to diagnose and replace the bearing without any problem.
Dino...Great video...you rock and the video was very informative. After watching it I'm going to replace my noisy bearing...Thanks, Mike in Portland, OR
Excellent video. Helped me repair my dryer. Thank you !
very helpful video, wife helped me and everything went good. Thank you
Great video. Hope mine works as quietly as yours after I order and install the kit.
Thanks. Great job. I'm ordering the bearing kit in the morning. We can do this. Thanks from the Gals!
kammona let u know how it gos
Fisher Parker fault code 22
Thanks - I could not have done this without your video.
@TheMRSCRW1, i remember it was a perfect fit 22mm, so the 21mm is out of the question, i did not have to take much off, depending on the socket (mine was 80's vintage craftsman) you may indeed be good , if there is interference u can try purchasing a thin wall 22mm on amazon or local store, or heck the new crftsman 22s may even fit, otherwise is back to the grinding wheel, sander or file, i basically only took the chrome off, was very close but not work untill the chrome was off, thanks for view
awesome, thanks! I'm ordering my bearing kit today, thanks to you!
very precise funny instructions. fixed it in a Pinch!!
+Richard Boyle ziiiinng!!!
I'm ordering my kit too. Great video; thank you.
Was going to say hope my dryer same brand has the same issue because I thought you could fix it without taking it apart and so off the wall mount in my case but now that's out the window 😂 thanks anyway helpful video damn that bearing is expensive for what it is.
@BassJaco, u cud open the front of the machine like in the vid, easly inspect the belt.
IMO, the way the belt drive is engineered, the belt cn make "noise" i put my money on bearing
the bering is on right side of machine, belt on left, can you localize the noise? this may help you
thanks for watching, thanks the comment
Robb Henderson, here on long island, in the handyman zone, i call my urethane mallet "the persuader" &
i now call my 22mm deep socket, "the fucked up looking socket"
now you know your in special group , them that brave to open a fisher paykell and replace braring !!
Excellent instructions! However, what if you have no way of grinding down your 22" socket? What is the alternative? Can you use a 21" socket?
Your instructions are excellent. However we are experiencing a problem in removing th bearing housing from the shaft. It does not slip off even with lifting the drum. Do you have any suggestions. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
John
Thank you Dino.
@Jay Nowi,
idk, i will say the lady i did this job for complained about a month after of squeek l8r when i went back she say it disappeared and has not called back? i think heat melts the lube into the bronze bearing? its still there, u just cant see it? but idk for sure.
have you checked the lint screen for rip? excess lint may build up? i dont know. i do know there are many on internet h8r of fisherpaykell, there some youtube run over bulldozer, blow up c-4 , shoot with shotgun, thanks tho
I am ordering this part but I wish I could hire you to come and put it in since you are so good at it. :)
+Mike Leger Thanks :-) ...th-cam.com/users/roslynny
+Mike Leger not a hard repair, buddy. Have another person to hold/stabilize housing while installing. 30 min w right tools, two people. Save yourself a couple hundred dollars.
Dino, great video. Only problem, I could not get the shaft off.
Great video, gonna order the part and give it a try. Thanks, you from Jersey or what? OK, found part on Amazon for $82. I finished the repair and it sounds like brand new. Yep, I had to hand file a 7/8" deep well, pain in the ass but it worked. I watched the video twice and went for it, glad I did. Thanks Dino, great job!!!
Yo, amigo! Thank you very much!!! You successfully led this moron through fixing his dryer!!!
Dude, this video was amazing! Thank you so much, you helped a lot!!!!
hey Dino.great video.thanks.is it possible to change all other pieces and leave the old shaft in?
Do I need to look for the specific model number of my dryer
thanks for the advice, it was a real help
I have a fisher & Paykel dx1x2. I just need to know if the squeaking may come from something els.
I hope that you can help. We have needed to replace the bearing kit but had to wait for a bit. We can not seem to get the old bearing off. When I look at it from the outer right wall, the bolt is not connected to the old bearing set that needs to be removed. On the inside, the short bolt will not seperate from the bearing, but it is loose in the housing. Do you have any suggestions as to how to get the short bolt off the old bearing? Thanks for video...
@ bill king, if the noise is direct relation to drum rotation..........no
Hey Dino,
Great video! your tips worked. I replaced the bearing about a month ago and was working great. Today it started squeaking again. I took the bearing out and noticed the lube on the bearing where it inserts into the bearing holder was gone. I flipped the bearing around and the squeaking stoped. Not sure why the lube has worn out. any ideas/suggestions. I can probaboly buy more lube but cant imagine why I would have to do this once a month when it took years for this to happen originally.
Really helped me, thanks!
What a helpful video! Thank you Dino! I have the project “in progress”. Right now, the part kit is on indefinite back order everywhere I’ve looked. The price has gone up ....the best prices I could find were between $150 - $180, including shipping; but even at these prices it’s not available, so I’m having to resort to replacing just the spindle & bearing, available on EBay for $38 with shipping. Fingers crossed that it will fix the problem. Dino, am wondering what grease you would recommend to use, and how much, around the bearing, since it will not arrive with any on it?
Job was easy to do. Only problem was that the shaft didn't quite stick out totally through the bearing (wasn't quite flush as the video showed) and that bothered me a little. Hopefully it will behave for a few years... I did get the deep 22mm Kobalt socket from Lowe's and it fit well. Make sure you have a ½" drive wrench or else buy an adaptor so this ½" drive socket will fit your wrench.
Thanks a lot my machine was actually eating my clothes . They were wrapping around the bearing housing and ripping and shredding my clothes. I just don't know why the part was almost $100 dollars and even more on sears. Com
I have the same exact dryer. I hear a kick drum bumping sound, but only in one direction. Pretty sure it's a bearing issue, but could it be a dryer belt? Just don't want to shell out 90 dollars for something that won't solve issue. Thanks!
Hoping you can help: this looks easy enough and I have my local store holding the part for me to pick up in a bit (when I take daughter to practice). I got as far as getting the old bearing off, and have a socket that seems like it will fit without grinding...but, the bolt is not at all centered in the hole. I did have to lift the drum a bit to get the old parts out as you mentioned, but now it seems like I'd have to lift the drum a LOT to get the socket in there. Is it normal for the drum to "sag" so much? I'm also curious how often the bearing should need to be replaced. I had it replaced by a service person about 18 mos ago. When I took everything off, due to squeaking and clothes actually getting caught inside the bearing cover and ripping, the bearing retainer (the coppery-looking thing that looks sort of like a wheel) was actually broken. The thin connections between the "spokes" and the hub had sheared off entirely. I'm wondering if the replacement was done incorrectly last time. The bearing cover is actually bent at the edge...hard to describe, but like a half milimeter is turned up in one area about an inch long so that it's almost like a knife that is ripping our clothes if they come into contact with it. Any thoughts? Especially on the "sag" of the drum?
Well, I have my parts, and I can get my 22mm socket into the hole, but every time I get it seated on the shaft bolt, the weight of the drum knocks it off when I try to start turning! If I could just do this part, I'd be well on my way. But I think I need to wait for my husband to come home so one of us can hold the drum up while the other does the wrench part.
Thanks very helpful
Great video! Very helpful.... Thanks!
So I started to do this repair myself and the 5mm allen head screw won't break free. After a few attempts it is now showing signs of stripping. I've seen some recommendations for "drilling" it out but I have never done anything of that sort. Do you know of any tips or videos to give it a go?
We replaced the bearing kit the squealing is gone but now have a thumping noise - it seems like the inner dryer lid is not closing completely
Dino, Darn, I still have a squeak but its not the bearing as I replaced it an hour ago. The squeal sounds like its coming from the back of the unit and its not constant. Any ideas?
DRIVE BELT? I'VE NEVER BEEN INTO BACK OF THESE MACHINES, SORRRY
Hi, I am buying a new dryer tomorrow to replace the POS F&P "Autosmart" one I have now. I have replaced the side bearing once and it's shot again. I have also had a heater coil, lint screen and the whole control panel replaced under warranty. The bearing lasted about 1 year and the lint screen is full of holes again. It also now squeals from the back like Jeff's and I suspect it's the motor pulley or idler pulley, which cannot be lubed because they are plastic. The squeal will eventually become constant and high pitched. Dino, you do a pretty good job explaining things. Parts costs on these units are outrageous. Customer service was even rude to the authorized repair guy who had to call another repair guy to get my previous repairs done. That's BS. I replaced the washer mate to this dryer with an LG. The washer was even a bigger POS than the dryer. We're lucky we didn't lose any clothes in it!
WOULD IT WORK TO HAVE A MAGNETIC SOCKET TO HOLD THE SHAFT BOLT INSTEAD OF REACHING BEHIND?
I wouldn't think that'd be a good idea and it's really not at all difficult reaching down the side of the machine... it can be a bit tricky lifting the drum to get the socket seated properly. I used a standard 7/8 Crescent brand socket and it wasn't quite deep enough to get a good fit on the shaft. A deep reach 7/8 thin walled socket would be ideal but you can make do with the 'regular garden variety'.
thanks
i replaced the tub bearing and now the squeak is fixed, but the machine now makes a rumbling vibration,
Could that be the belt pulleys?
look here www.fixya.com/support/t25163830-could_make_noise_when_drum_tumbles
I ran into a problem with unscrewing the old bearing... the 22mm socket fit through the hole ok, I could feel it engage onto the bearing...but I've been fighting with this thing for 5 hours, trying to loosen it and get it off. I can't tell whether I've even done anything on it, just seems like it's spinning around and going nowhere. Beyond frustrated.
at 9:30 note that i have my right hand inbetween the drum and the side of the machine, holding the bolt whilst my left hand works the wrench
Update...so, got some help from a friend with some more mechanical savvy than I have....I held the bolt as you suggested(as I did also the first time), but also pushed in on the bolt, which enabled us to get the socket actually onto the nut, and we got it off. My problem was getting the socket onto the nut in the first place, pushing on that bolt gave us better access.
Unfortunately we pulled the bolt out and the inlet bearing spacer fell off down into the machine...we couldn't find it, but it can be ordered from searspartsdirect.com for $10. Still waiting on that. Hopefully if anyone else reads this they can learn from my difficulties.
Thanks very much Dino for these videos!
So what do you do if the bolt does fall out? Something slipped between the panels and now the bolt won't go back in.
Actually, I was able to put a finger back through the hole and drag the internal bearing retainer back in line, and hold it there. I put and Allen wrench back through from other side all the way through to 'hold center'. The shaft could be aligned back on to the Allen wrench through its bore. You have to rotate drum forwards to remove wrench while holding shaft in place. Then put bolt back in and thread from back side. Better than taking everything apart.
Nice tutorial, but I wouldn't even recommend repairing this POS Dryer. Throw it as far as you can, even if it's only an inch, then beat it with a mallet!
Lent trap
This is a very thorough instruction on how to do this, however the bearing will begin to squeek again after so many loads. I don't want to do this again. The shaft outside diameter is 15 mm and the bearing cup inside diameter is 25 mm, so I got 2 bicycle sealed wheel bearings (10.83 for both) that are 15 mm x 25 mm x 8 mm wide, pressed 1 into the bearing cup, installed the cup into the drum, put the 2nd bearing onto the shaft, put the thrust washer and the chrome cover on to hold it all together and there is no squeal and the drum rides on ball bearing races. No chance for squealing anymore.
Joe Zastawniak. Am thinking to try your solution, in spite of being new to anything like this. Am not finding bike bearing with 25 mm diameter (24 mm, yes; 26 mm yes, 25 mm no). Suggestions on where to look? Or is 24 mm good enough?
how the hell do i move the cabinett off so that i can access the motor to replace the belt..the only think i feel like dong is cuting the metal so i can reach the fucking thing
excellent video!