I'm no expert on 6.0 injectors. But every time I've replaced the inside o-ring, it's been faster and easier to pull the snap rings out. If you get a small pick, grind it down and flatten the end to fit between the snap-ring opening, then twist, it will come out very quickly. Then slide the guide out and swap the o-ring. A quick push with a screwdriver installs the new snap-ring. You'll fight with it way longer trying to get the o-ring in without removing the clip, plus much greater chance of damaging the new o-ring. But, everyone has their own method.
I never have time to record, edit and upload anymore. But I did just finish another set of 6.0 injectors today. Two of them gave me a fit. It was still easy though. Once you pull the old seal out, push the guide ring down, then pop the end of the snap ring down with a good tap. Then grab it with a pair of pliers and twist a little. Both came out quickly.
Theres 2 orings in side the injector body that fail before tbe external O-rings do when that happens you start dumping diesel in your oil then tne fuel rail under the nipple is an oring that should be done . Do those too unless you like pulling them out every other month
OK, So there would be the top seal inside injector that nipple cup seats in to. I replaced that one with Mahle seals. Where is the other one? Thanks for the reply.
Looking to throw in a set of 90hp sticks in my 6.7. - Do you recommend upgrading the CP3 and/or lift pump? - It appears that the 90hp’s are marketed as “largest injector recommended for stock system”. Some say they have zero issues, while others say they have pressure drop.
We suggest upgraded lift pumps on stock applications, and upgrading your CP3 will help you get the intended results from your injectors if the tuning leaves power on the table. Short answer, yes. Your ENTIRE setup should reflect your intended HP goals as well, don’t forget that!
I don’t quite understand the question. But the nozzle is an extension of the injector circuit, and if it were air instead of fluid being delivered, it would still “hold air” if the pintle was closed.
the fact is that when checking with air, the nozzle is not airtight! After removing the ramp, I saw that the O-ring was intact. But when air is supplied directly to the nozzle, there is an air leak, air comes out of two holes that are located near the central entrance, where the nipple enters.
I'm from Russia, I got an international with a Ford engine. We do not have specialists, unfortunately, there is no diagnosis either. I solve problems on my own. If it's not difficult, then your help with advice will be very useful to me. I'm watching videos with Ron on TH-cam.I learned a lot of useful things.
If you are talking about an air leak in your engines high oil pressure system, I would suggest hitting the IPR and changing the commanded pressure and seeing if the sound changes. I guess I still don’t understand the question.
Man, thank you so much, it was amazing video I appreciate that I read many places on the internet you can't replace those o rings and I believe I have a leak would that cause a cylinder number five powerbalance grey code
Hi Wayne, After you do a rebuild on engine including reseal of injector top seals , nipple cup orings, new oem stand pipes and dummy plugs with engine still on stand and basically dry (no oil) would it be unusual to hear air escaping from around all these areas? Hissing and some clicking , spitting noises. Carefully followed your video guides resealing all those and thats what I'm hearing when testing with air though ipr or icp ports. Dont want to tear it all back apart if this is more or less normal and really dont want to do it once reinstalled in truck. Some guy on powerstrokenation had similar issues same situation and truck started and ran fine. I also had a smoke pen and streamed a steady stream of smoke around all the noisy areas and didnt see any air leaks that way around oil rail and injectors. your thoughts greatly appreciated or anyone else who cares to comment.
Is the truck having a hard start or lack of power? If not then I would think that your repairs are sound. I think that once the oil system is primed that air escaping noise should go away, unless you are having another leak.
I only finally got the engine back in and running which is why I waited so long to reply. The truck built up high pressure oil to the injectors pretty quickly. Only took about four 15 second cranks to get the needed pressure to fire the injectors . Runs great now with no long cranks or hard starting issues. So, not only did I replace the top seals in the injectors like shown in the video but I also replaced the nipple cup seals in the high pressure oil rails, (the ones dieseltechron says not to touch). If you air test for leaks after doing the nipple cup seals before total reassembly and cranking engine with oil in it ,dont get freaked out if you hear massive leaking. It needs the high pressure oil to properly seat the nipple cup seals into place. The air just blew right around them till then. Dont cheap out on the seals. I used HHC which were highly recommended and I hear alliant also has good replacement seals. Ford does not offer replacement seals. They want you to buy the whole new oil rail for around $700. The seals were only about $20 tax included. If they dont last I will update.
I don’t have an answer on the Subaru specifically but we always suggest when a injector is replace we change the orings and copper compression washer each time.
I actually added too much oil (5 quarts too much) how much damage did i do? slightly rough idle but does shake at 50 mph range above 50 it runs smooth. my mistake was that i the youtube video i followed, had 4 jugs of oil(he used non motorcraft 1 gallon jugs) and i used 1.25 gallon motorcraft which were 5 quarts each so i overfilled.
🔥 Want a set of O-Rings for your 2003-2010 Ford Powerstroke 6.0 Injectors? Order here:
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/dt600016/
@@thoroughbreddiesel this link does not send me directly to these O Ring set for the 6.0 Injectors
I'm no expert on 6.0 injectors. But every time I've replaced the inside o-ring, it's been faster and easier to pull the snap rings out. If you get a small pick, grind it down and flatten the end to fit between the snap-ring opening, then twist, it will come out very quickly. Then slide the guide out and swap the o-ring. A quick push with a screwdriver installs the new snap-ring. You'll fight with it way longer trying to get the o-ring in without removing the clip, plus much greater chance of damaging the new o-ring. But, everyone has their own method.
Thanks for sharing!
Sounds good! If you ever need to do this again I bet a lot of people would love to see the video of you doing this, myself included.
I never have time to record, edit and upload anymore. But I did just finish another set of 6.0 injectors today. Two of them gave me a fit. It was still easy though. Once you pull the old seal out, push the guide ring down, then pop the end of the snap ring down with a good tap. Then grab it with a pair of pliers and twist a little. Both came out quickly.
Watched it to see how you get that c clip out you don't touch, as these crack so replacement is highly recommended.
Thanks!
Of Course, we 6.0l powerstroke buddy Thank you for your injector videos
GBU and the Ford crew
You're welcome!
Thank you so much , very well explained and your patients made me feel like I was back in aircraft college, Charles.
You're welcome!
Great informational video. I will be using this video to do the o-rings on my 6.0.
Thanks and good luck!
Theres 2 orings in side the injector body that fail before tbe external O-rings do when that happens you start dumping diesel in your oil then tne fuel rail under the nipple is an oring that should be done . Do those too unless you like pulling them out every other month
OK, So there would be the top seal inside injector that nipple cup seats in to. I replaced that one with Mahle seals. Where is the other one? Thanks for the reply.
Looking to throw in a set of 90hp sticks in my 6.7. - Do you recommend upgrading the CP3 and/or lift pump? - It appears that the 90hp’s are marketed as “largest injector recommended for stock system”. Some say they have zero issues, while others say they have pressure drop.
We suggest upgraded lift pumps on stock applications, and upgrading your CP3 will help you get the intended results from your injectors if the tuning leaves power on the table. Short answer, yes. Your ENTIRE setup should reflect your intended HP goals as well, don’t forget that!
Is there a redesigned i sector that doesn't get leaks easily?
good day! Why is the nozzle not holding air? The air comes out of two small holes, from above, where the nipple should enter.
I don’t quite understand the question. But the nozzle is an extension of the injector circuit, and if it were air instead of fluid being delivered, it would still “hold air” if the pintle was closed.
the fact is that when checking with air, the nozzle is not airtight! After removing the ramp, I saw that the O-ring was intact. But when air is supplied directly to the nozzle, there is an air leak, air comes out of two holes that are located near the central entrance, where the nipple enters.
I'm from Russia, I got an international with a Ford engine. We do not have specialists, unfortunately, there is no diagnosis either. I solve problems on my own. If it's not difficult, then your help with advice will be very useful to me. I'm watching videos with Ron on TH-cam.I learned a lot of useful things.
If you are talking about an air leak in your engines high oil pressure system, I would suggest hitting the IPR and changing the commanded pressure and seeing if the sound changes. I guess I still don’t understand the question.
Man, thank you so much, it was amazing video I appreciate that I read many places on the internet you can't replace those o rings and I believe I have a leak would that cause a cylinder number five powerbalance grey code
Glad I could help!
Will internal O ring in the injector cause ,,no start,, if it leaks?! What about cracked injector sleeve, does it cause ,, no start..,,?
Cracked sleeve will not cause a no start. I would assume.
Hi Wayne, After you do a rebuild on engine including reseal of injector top seals , nipple cup orings, new oem stand pipes and dummy plugs with engine still on stand and basically dry (no oil) would it be unusual to hear air escaping from around all these areas? Hissing and some clicking , spitting noises. Carefully followed your video guides resealing all those and thats what I'm hearing when testing with air though ipr or icp ports. Dont want to tear it all back apart if this is more or less normal and really dont want to do it once reinstalled in truck. Some guy on powerstrokenation had similar issues same situation and truck started and ran fine. I also had a smoke pen and streamed a steady stream of smoke around all the noisy areas and didnt see any air leaks that way around oil rail and injectors. your thoughts greatly appreciated or anyone else who cares to comment.
Is the truck having a hard start or lack of power? If not then I would think that your repairs are sound. I think that once the oil system is primed that air escaping noise should go away, unless you are having another leak.
What ended up happening
I only finally got the engine back in and running which is why I waited so long to reply. The truck built up high pressure oil to the injectors pretty quickly. Only took about four 15 second cranks to get the needed pressure to fire the injectors . Runs great now with no long cranks or hard starting issues. So, not only did I replace the top seals in the injectors like shown in the video but I also replaced the nipple cup seals in the high pressure oil rails, (the ones dieseltechron says not to touch). If you air test for leaks after doing the nipple cup seals before total reassembly and cranking engine with oil in it ,dont get freaked out if you hear massive leaking. It needs the high pressure oil to properly seat the nipple cup seals into place. The air just blew right around them till then. Dont cheap out on the seals. I used HHC which were highly recommended and I hear alliant also has good replacement seals. Ford does not offer replacement seals. They want you to buy the whole new oil rail for around $700. The seals were only about $20 tax included. If they dont last I will update.
I'm just swapping injectors do I need to replace o rings if I'm careful. Have a po302 on my 2006 Subaru sti. Already swapped plugs and ignition coils
I don’t have an answer on the Subaru specifically but we always suggest when a injector is replace we change the orings and copper compression washer each time.
I actually added too much oil (5 quarts too much) how much damage did i do? slightly rough idle but does shake at 50 mph range above 50 it runs smooth. my mistake was that i the youtube video i followed, had 4 jugs of oil(he used non motorcraft 1 gallon jugs) and i used 1.25 gallon motorcraft which were 5 quarts each so i overfilled.
Hard to say, but probably none. Drain the oil and start again.